Gazetteer of the US - Arkansas

Giving a full and comprehensive review of the present 
condition, industry and resources of the American 
Confederacy: Embracing important topographical, 
statistical and historical information from recent 
and original sources; together with the results of
the census of 1850, and population and statistics 
in many cases to 1853. By Thomas Baldwin and J. Thomas, MD, 1854. 

ARKANSAS, generally classed as one of the Western states, 
but having for the most part the soil and products of the 
Southern, is bounded on the N. by Missouri, E. by Missouri 
and the Mississippi River, (which separates it from the 
states of Tennessee and Mississippi), S. by Louisiana and 
Texas, and W. by Texas and Indian territory. 
It lies between 33ø and 36ø 30' N. lat., and between 89ø 45' 
and 94ø 40' W. lon.; being about 240 miles in length from 
N. to S., and 224 in breadth from E. to W.; and including
an area of near 52,198 square miles, or 33,406,720 acres, 
only 781,531 of which were improved in 1850. 

Population.--There were in Arkansas in 1820, 14,273 
inhabitants; 30,388 in 1830; 97,574 in 1840; and 209,639 
in 1850: of which 85,689 were white males, 76,369 were 
white females, 318 free colored males, 271 free colored 
females, and 46,982 slaves. There were also in 1850, 
28,416 families occupying 28,252 dwellings. Representative 
population, 190,846. The number of deaths in the year 
ending June 1st, 1850, as 2987, or nearly fifteen in every 
one thousand persons. Of the population at the last census 
there were 63,286 born in the state, 97,139 in other states 
of the Union, 196 in England, 514 in Ireland, 71 in Scotland, 
11 in Wales, 41 in British America, 516 in Germany, 
77 in France, 202 in other countries, and 824 whose places of 
birth were unknown. The whole number of paupers who received 
aid in the year ending June 1st, 1850, was 105, 8 of whom 
were foreigners. Blind, 75 whites, 1 free colored, 
and 5 slaves--total, 81. 
Deaf and dumb, 83 whites, and 6 slaves. 

Counties.--There are in Arkansas 54 counties, viz. Arkansas, 
Ashley, Benton, Bradley, Carroll, Chicot, Clark, Conway, 
Crawford, Crittenden, Dallas, Desha, Drew, Franklin, Fulton, 
Greene, Hempstead, Hot Spring, Independence, Izard, Jackson, 
Jefferson, Johnson, Lafayette, Lawrence, Madison, Marion, 
Mississippi, Monroe, Montgomery, Newton, Perry, Phillips, 
Pike, Poinsett, Polk, Pope, Prairie, Pulaski, Randolph, 
St. Francis, Saline, Scott, Searcy, Sevier, Union, Van Buren, 
Washington, Washita, White, and Yell. These three have been 
formed since 1850: Calhoun, Columbia, and Sebastian. 

Towns.--There are but few large towns in Arkansas. 
The principal are Little Rock, the capital of the state, 
with a population of about 3000; 
Van Buren, the most commercial town in the state, 
with a population of 1500; 
Fort Smith, population 1500; 
Camden, population 1400; 
Batesville, population about 1600. 

Face of the Country.--The eastern part of Arkansas for about 100 miles 
back from the Mississippi, is generally a vast plain covered with 
marshes, swamps, and lagoons, but occasionally interspersed with elevations, 
(some of which are 30 miles or more in circuit,) which, when the rivers are 
overflowed, form temporary islands. A plank-road is about to be made through 
a part of this region. A bill having recently been passed by Congress, 
giving to the Southern and Western States all the overflowed swamp-lands 
within their respective limits, the state of Arkansas is now constructing, 
along the whole eastern boundary, levees of great strength, by means of 
which extensive tracts, that have hitherto been entirely worthless, will 
be converted into cultivable land of extraordinary fertility. The Ozark 
mountains, which enter the N. W. part of the state, are of uncertain 
height; they do not, however, exceed 2000 feet, and are generally much 
below that elevation. These mountains divide the state into two unequal 
parts, of which the northern has the climate and productions of the 
Northern States, while the southern portion, in the character of its 
climate and productions, resembles Mississippi or Louisiana. The Black 
hills in the north, and the Washita hills in the west, near the Washita 
River, are the only other considerable elevations. The central parts of 
the state, as well as the regions north of the Ozark Mountains, are broken 
and undulating. 

Minerals.--Arkansas gives indications of considerable affluence in mineral 
resources, which are principally coal, iron, lead, zinc, manganese, gypsum, 
and salt. The coal field of Arkansas commences 40 miles above Little Rock, 
and extends on both sides of the river beyond the western boundary of the 
state. 
Cannel, anthracite, and bituminous coal are all found in the state. Gold is 
said to have been discovered in White county. Near the Hot Springs is a 
celebrated quarry of oilstone, superior to any thing else of the kind in 
the known world: the quantity is inexhaustible: there are great varieties, 
exhibiting all degrees of fineness. According to a writer in De Bow's 
Resources of the South and West, there is manganese enough in Arkansas 
to supply the world; in zinc it excels every state except New Jersey; 
and has more gypsum than all the other states put together, while it 
is equally well supplied with marble and salt. The lead ore of this 
state is said to be particularly rich in silver. 

Rivers, Lakes, &c.--Arkansas has no seaboard, but the Mississippi River 
(which receives all the waters of this state) coasts the almost entire 
eastern boundary, and renders it accessible to the sea from many points. 
Probably no state in the Union is penetrated by so many navigable rivers 
as Arkansas: owing, however, to the long-continued droughts which prevail 
in the hot season, none of these streams can be ascended by vessels of 
any size more than about nine months in the year. The Arkansas is the 
principal river that passes wholly through the state. It enters the 
western border from the Indian Territory, and sweeping almost directly 
through the middle of the state for about 500 miles, (the whole distance 
navigable for steamboats,) after receiving a number of small tributaries, 
discharges its waters into the Mississippi. The White River and the St. 
Francis, with their affluents, drain the N. E. part of the state. They 
have their sources in Missouri, and their outlet in the Mississippi river. 
The White river, which debouches by one channel into the Arkansas, and into 
the Mississippi by the other, is navigable for steamboats 500 miles, the 
Big Black for 60, and the St. Francis for 300 miles. The Red river runs 
through the S. W. angle of the state, and receives some small tributaries 
within its limits. It is navigable for steamboats beyond Arkansas. The 
Washita and its numerous affluents drain the southern portion of the state. 
The main stream is navigable for 375 miles, and its tributary, the Saline, 
for 100 miles. The Bayous Bartholomew, Boeuf, Macon, and Tensas are all 
tributaries of the Washita, and have an aggregate of 635 miles of navigable 
water. They all rise in the S. part of Arkansas and flow into Louisiana, 
where they join the Red river. The Little Missouri and Bayou D'Arbonne 
are western branches of the Arkansas, the former navigable 60, and the 
latter 50 miles, for light steamboats. There are no considerable lakes 
in Arkansas. 

Objects of Interest to Tourists.--Under this head stand prominent the 
Hot Springs, situated in a county of the same name, about 60 miles S. W. 
of Little Rock. From a point or ridge of land forming a steep bank from 
150 to 200 feet high, projecting over Hot Spring creek, an affluent of 
the Washita, more than 100 springs issue at different elevations, and 
of different temperatures, from 135ø to 160ø of Fahrenheit. A considerable 
portion of this bank consists of calcareous deposites, formed from the 
water as it is exposed to the air. These springs are visited annually 
by thousands of people. The waters are esteemed particularly beneficial 
to persons suffering from the chronic effects of mercury; also in 
rheumatism, stiffness of the joints, &c. &c. Near the top of the bank 
above alluded to, there is a fine cold spring so near to the warm springs, 
that a person can put one hand into cold, and the other into hot water at 
the same time. The creek below the springs is rendered warm enough to 
bathe in, even in the coldest season. Cane Hill, in Washington county, 
elevated about 1000 feet, is flat or rolling on the top, with exactly 
the same growth of trees, &c. (including the grape-vine, papaw and gum 
trees) as on the river bottoms. It was originally covered with cane, 
hence the name. It is 4 or 5 miles wide, and perhaps 10 miles long, 
and densely populated. The mountains on the western border of the state, 
abound with picturesque and romantic scenery. There is in Pike county 
on the Little Missouri river, a mountain of alabaster, said to be of 
the finest quality, and white as the driven snow. In the same county 
also there is a natural bridge, which is regarded as a great curiosity. 

Climate.--The climate of the northern and western parts of Arkansas is 
allied to that of the North-Western States, while the southern and eastern 
portion partakes of that of Louisiana. (See Face of the Country, page 50.) 
The lowlands are unhealthy, but the uplands will compare favorably with the 
most healthful regions of the Western States. The following extract from 
the letter of a gentleman of great respectability, residing at Little Rock, 
contains much interesting and valuable information in relation to this 
subject: "We never have very deep snows in Arkansas, though in the northern 
and mountainous parts it is sometimes a foot deep, but lasts a short time 
only. The peachtree thrives here beyond parallel. The fruit is as good as 
any in the world, and is indigenous.(?) It blossoms in February ordinarily, 
although I have seen them bloom in January, with plenty of fruit the same 
year; the average time is the middle of February. We often eat corn here 
in June, though crops do not ripen so soon, because not planted soon enough. 
It ripens by the middle of August, and is often gathered in August. According 
to a meteorological table kept in Pulaski county, near Little Rock, the mean 
temperature of the year from the 16th December, 1850, until the 15th December, 
1851, inclusive, was 62ø 66'. Mean temperature of the months of December, 
January, and February, for the years 1849 and 1850, 45ø 82'. Mean temperature 
for the corresponding months for the years 1850 and 1851, 44ø 52'. Mean 
temperature for the months of June, July, and August, for the year 1850, 
79ø 66'. Mean temperature for the corresponding months, for the year 1851, 
80ø 26'. There were 47 days during the summer of 1850, when the mercury 
rose to 90ø and upwards; 51 days during the summer of 1851, when the 
mercury rose to 90ø and upwards. The greatest elevation of the mercury, 
1850, was the 24th August, when it rose to 99ø. The greatest elevation 
for 1851, was the 16th August, when it rose to 99 1/3ø. The lowest 
depression of the mercury during the year 1850, was 8ø, the 8th of 
December. The lowest depression during the year 1851, was 12ø, the 
19th January. From the 1st of March, 1850, until the 30th of November, 
1851, inclusive, there fell in rain and snow 79.66 inches of water, 
making an average of about 3.79 inches per month, and 45.52 inches in 
12 months. The greatest amount of rain during one month, was April, 
1850, when there fell 7.93 inches of water; the least that fell in 
any one month was September, 1851, when there fell .02 of an inch." 

Soil and Productions.--There is a great variety in the soil of Arkansas; 
along the river intervals, it is of the richest black mould, (yielding 
from 50 to 80 bushels of Indian eorn to the acre,) but much of it unfit 
for cultivation for want of a system of drainage. On the White and St. 
Francis rivers there is some land of especial excellence; while in the 
country back from the rivers there are some sterile ridges. Grand prairie, 
between White and Arkansas rivers, about 90 miles long and 30 broad, is 
badly supplied with water, but most of the other prairie lands are well 
watered. The region north of the Ozark mountains, including about two 
tiers of counties, is well adapted to grazing; it produces also abundance 
of excellent wheat, and, perhaps, the finest apples in the world. This 
section of the country is elevated, hilly, or rolling, interspersed with 
prairies, and abounds with fine springs of excellent water. Grain and 
stock are the staples. The tops of the hills and mountains are often 
flat or rolling, and covered with a good soil and a heavy growth of 
timber. The staple products of Arkansas are Indian corn, cotton, and 
live stock, and considerable quantities of wheat, oats, tobacco, wool, 
peas, beans, sweet potatoes, Irish potatoes, fruits, garden vegetables, 
butter, hay, rice, beeswax, and honey, with some rye, barley, buckwheat, 
wine, cheese, grass-seeds, hops, hemp, flax, silk, and maple sugar. 
There were in Arkansas in 1850, 17,758 farms, occupying 781,531 acres 
of improved land, and producing live stock worth $6,847,969; 199,639 
bushels of wheat; 8,893,939 of Indian corn; 656,183 of oats; 285,738 
of peas and beans; 193,832 of Irish potatoes; 788,149 of sweet potatoes; 
63,179 pounds of rice; 218,936 of tobacco; 23,038,400 of cotton; 
182,595 of wool; 1,854,239 of butter; 3977 tons of hay; 192,338 pounds 
of beeswax and honey; orchard products valued at $40,041; and market 
vegetables at $17,150. 

Forest-Trees.--In Arkansas the bottom lands are generally covered with 
a heavy growth of cotton-wood, ash, cypress, and gum. The mountains or 
hilly portions have hickory and the different kinds of oak. Pine is found 
in considerable abundance on the Arkansas river, near the centre of the 
state, and from this southward to Red river. Beech is said to be found 
in great abundance on the St. Francis river. Immense quantities of these 
different kinds of timber are sent down the Mississippi river to New Orleans. 
From the letter referred to on the preceding page, we extract the following 
passage:--"The principal forest-trees are the oak, (white,) found in 
remarkable abundance and of good quality: the other oaks are also abundant 
and very fine. White oaks, 5 feet in diameter and 60 or 80 feet without a 
limb, are common. Hickory, ash, black walnut, gum, cherry, pine, red cedar, 
dogwood, cypress, maple, beech, cotton-wood, poplar, sugar-maple in the 
north parts; bois d'arc, (pronounced bo dark,) sassafras, and black locust; 
all these are found in abundance, and are very valuable. 
The pecan is included in hickory, and is also very abundant." 

Animals.--Arkansas is still the home of many wild animals, and the bear, 
buffalo, (a few of which are still found in the Mississippi swamp in 
Crittenden county,) deer, wolf, catamount, wildcat, beaver, otter, 
raccoon, and gopher yet infest its forests, prairies, and savannas. 
The gopher is a little animal found chiefly, it is said, west of the 
Mississippi. It is rather larger than a rat, and has pouches on each 
side of its head and neck, in which it carries out the dirt it makes 
while excavating its burrow. It is very destructive to trees by gnawing 
their roots. Of birds, there are found wild geese, turkeys, and quails. 
The streams abound in fish, particularly trout. 

Manufactures.--This state is not extensively engaged in manufactures. 
According to the census of 1850, there were only 271 manufactories 
producing each $500 and upwards, annually. Of these 3 were engaged 
in the manufacture of cotton, employing $16,500 capital, and 13 male 
and 18 female hands, consuming raw material worth $8975, and producing 
81,250 pounds of yarn, valued at $16,637; but no wooden or iron 
manufactories or distilleries reported. There were also fabricated 
in 1850, home-made manufactures valued at $646,938, and 51 tanneries, 
employing $42,100 capital, consuming raw material 
worth $35,230, and producing leather valued at $78,734. 

Internal Improvements.--This young state has as yet made little advance 
in this respect, having full occupation in the preliminary steps of 
clearing and settling the country. Some plank-roads are in course of 
construction. But Arkansas is so well supplied with river navigation, 
she will scarcely feel the want of other means of communication till 
her back country is more settled. 

Commerce.--This state has no foreign commerce, though it has considerable 
boating trade with New Orleans, engaged in the export of its productions. 
The rivers of Arkansas afford an interior navigation of more than 1000 
miles, bringing a large portion of the state within the reach of navigable 
water. According to De Bow the White river is more easily navigated than 
the Ohio; in addition to this the Arkansas is navigable the entire breadth 
of the state, the St. Francis for 300, and the Big Black river for 100 
miles. The S. and S. W. portion of the state may be approached by steamboats 
through the Red river, the Washita, and their branches. Lumber, cotton, 
slaughtered animals, and Indian corn are the great articles of export. 

Education.--This state has no colleges, nor has she yet organized a 
system of public schools. 

Religious Denominations.--Of the 185 churches in Arkansas, the different 
sects of Baptists owned 73; the Episcopalians 2; the Free Church 1; 
the Methodists 73; the Presbyterians 25; the Roman Catholics 6; 
and the Union Church 7. 

Public Institutions.--As yet Arkansas has no institutions for the insane, 
or for the deaf and dumb, or blind. There is at Little Rock one state 
penitentiary, which has been once or twice burned down by the convicts. 

Government--Finances, &c.--The governor is elected by the people for 4 
years, and receives a salary of $1800 per annum and the use of a house. 
The senate consists of 25 members, elected for 5 years, and a house of 
representatives of 75 members, elected for 2 years, both by the people. 
The members of both these bodies receive $3 per diem during the session, 
and $3 for every 20 miles travel. The Judiciary, Consists, 1st, of a 
supreme court, composed of a chief justice and two associates, elected 
by the legislature for 8 years, and receiving a salary of $1800 each 
per annum; and, 2d, of six circuit courts, held twice a year in each 
circuit. The circuit judges are elected by the people for 4 years, 
and the prosecuting attorney for two years. The circuit judges receive 
$1250 per annum. Arkansas sends two members to the national house of 
representatives, and is entitled to four electoral votes for president 
of the United States. The national debt in 1852 was $1,506,562; 
school fund, none; annual expenditures, inclusive of debt and schools, 
$35,000. The assessed value of real and personal property in 1850 was 
$36,428,675. There were no banks in Arkansas in January, 1852. 

History.--Arkansas was settled by the French at Arkansas Post as early 
as 1685, and formed a part of the great tract purchased from France in 
1803, under the name of Louisiana. It made little progress until after 
its formation into a territory of the United States in 1819. It became 
a member of the American Union in 1836. 


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