Contra Costa County CA Archives History - Books .....Tule Lands And Agriculture 1882
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Book Title: History Of Contra Costa County, California

   Tule Lands.—Tules are similar to the plant known in the Eastern States as
"cat-tail," and may be termed a cross between the bulrush and flag, their blades
being long, whip-like rushes, with a feather bloom, or stout in stem, with the
black cat near the top, growing to an average height of four feet. They are
perennial, for destroy them one year and the next they are in full force.

   Of the large area of tule lands in Contra Costa County, but comparatively a
small acreage has been brought into cultivation, although some of the islands in
the estuary of the San Joaquin have been reclaimed for years by means of
constructing levees to repel the overflowing waters. When this is successful the
result is a triumph, and includes immunity from drouth, healthful and pleasant
climate, inexhaustible productive powers of soil, and being in the highway of
steamboat traffic, cheap transportation.

   Among the islands reclaimed we may mention Union Island, lying between the
old and middle channels of the San Joaquin, comprising about forty-five thousand
acres, and owned chiefly by .General T. H. Williams, of Oakland; Roberts Island,
separated from Union Island by Middle River, and lying between it and San
Joaquin proper, containing about sixty-eight thousand acres of land; Sherman
Island, between the San Joaquin and Sacramento rivers, immediately above the
point of juncture, containing upwards of fifteen thousand acres; Kimball Island,
opposite the town of Antioch, formerly owned by Captain Kimball, and others
which we have not space to notice.

   Upon reclamation of one of these islands, the first business is to destroy
the tules by plowing and rolling, the rollers being a power of reproduction. The
latter process is primitive and effective. The rollers are heavily weighted,
double, ten feet in diameter, and are pushed into the tules by four horses, a
man steering their course by means of a rudder wheel. The land is then plowed up
in deep, wide furrows, and the roots of the weeds burned out. Potatoes are
usually planted first, followed by beans, so that two crops are raised in the
year, while, when in good working order, and free from floods, the fertility is
fourfold that of ordinary upland.

   Tule lands present a vast field for enterprise and capital, while the returns
of produce show astonishing results. Fruits, cereals, bulbs, and vegetables grow
to rare perfection—indeed, no manner of cultivated plant, tree or shrub, that
flourishes in any part of the United States, has yet been found to fail when
tried on these lands, while they usually attain an extraordinary growth seldom
equaled elsewhere.

   Agriculture.—Previous to the advent of Americans in California, little land
was devoted to agriculture, for the Mexicans had but a crude idea of its
science, and possessed just sufficient skill to cultivate enough of vegetable
food to sustain life. They believed that mountain, hill and dale were intended
for pastoral uses, and nothing else, therefore they sought not to bring the
fertile valleys under the plow, and left Nature to pursue its own course.
Perhaps their reason for so doing was the want of a market for cereals, for they
always had one for hides and tallow; they were stock-raisers, not farmers, hence
the little wheat and maize, beans, water-melons and onions they cultivated, were
for home consumption rather than for outside wants.

   When gold was discovered in 1848, the western world knew next to nothing
about California, indeed it was an Ultima, Thule to the best informed. With the
frantic shibboleth of "gold" the whole world was set on fire, and "every kindred
and tongue" flocked to the Pacific shores, and among them of course vast numbers
of practical farmers; but it was not grain they sought, it was gold. Happily
there were a few whose minds were evenly balanced, who saw that all could not
join in the search for "dust," and yet live. Food was imperatively necessary;
the Mexicans had not enough to sell, therefore in another way the mines yielded
to the first agriculturists of California a surer fortune from mother earth than
was to be gained by pick and rocker, still there were many who held to the
belief that a country which for six months of the year knew no rain, could not
be otherwise but a comparatively barren waste. But as time went on its fertility
was fully proven, and the provisioning of the mining camps passed from the hands
of the Mexicans entirely into those of the Americans, and great was their
reward; even in 1850, onions and eggs commanded fifty cents apiece, and
watermelons from two dollars and a half to double that sum.

   The first to attempt the cultivation of the cereals within the present
confines of Contra Costa County, was Doctor John Marsh, who settled on the
Rancho Los Mejanos in or about the year 1837. With characteristic energy he at
once commenced many improvements of a practical nature more in consonance with
western ideas than those of his neighbors, while, with a rare intuition he
declared his belief in the marvelous resources of California in a now famous
communication to Hon. Lewis Cass, dated "Farm of Pulpunes, near St. Francisco,
Upper California, 1846," in these words: "The agricultural capabilities of
California are but very imperfectly developed. The whole of it is remarkably
adapted to the culture of the vine. Wine and brandy, of excellent quality, are
made in considerable quantities. Olives, figs and almonds grow well. Apples,
pears and peaches are abundant, and in the southern part, oranges. Cotton is
beginning to be cultivated and succeeds well. It is the finest country for wheat
I have ever seen. Fifty for one is an average crop, with very imperfect
cultivation. One hundred fold is not uncommon, and even one hundred and fifty
has been produced. Maize produces tolerably well, but not equal to some parts of
the United States. Hemp, flax and tobacco have been cultivated on a small scale,
and succeed well. The raising of cattle is the principal pursuit of the
inhabitants, and the most profitable."

   Unhappily we are not in a position to state statistically what the Doctor's
own success on his rancho was, or that in his letter to the illustrious
statesman he recounted the capabilities of his own lands, suffice it to say that
his domain was not the least productive in the county. The first actual precise
knowledge we have been able to glean in regard to pioneer agriculture in the
county is that the honor is due to the Hon. Elam Brown, of being the first to
farm with any practical results in Contra Costa, for we learn from him that in
1850 a yield of about one hundred and five bushels per acre was obtained from an
ancient cattle corral near his residence at Lafayette, to which place the first
honors belong. The beautiful valley of San Ramon claims the second place, for
here in 1853 R O. Baldwin threshed out the produce of a field by the old process
of horse stamping, and received more than fifty bushels per acre of excellent
wheat, at the same time realizing five hundred dollars for the yield of half an
acre planted in onions.

   It is sufficient for our purpose to know that these two gentlemen were the
pioneer wheat-growers of Contra Costa, a county which thirty years thereafter
has its every arable space one waving field of grain. It is not our province
here to follow those others who came in their wake with other grains and
vegetables, but rather to state the historical fact that Messrs Brown and
Baldwin were the first to prove the wonderful adaptability of California soil to
wheat culture in our county.

   The first crops raised showed a prodigious out-turn, usually fifty or sixty
fold, but unfortunately the science of farming was sunk into the greed of gain,
the prolific soil was given neither rest, nor recuperative aid, and the
perpetual croppings have resulted in diminishing the yield to about one half of
the original product.

   Dr. John Strentzel, in a valuable and exhaustive paper on the agricultural
and horticultural developments and resources of Contra Costa County, published
for the first time during the year 1876 in the Contra Costa Gazette, states it
can be safely assumed that for several years to come the area cultivated in
wheat will be in the vicinity of sixty thousand acres, yielding nearly one and a
half million bushels of wheat, and twenty thousand acres in barley, with an
average product of seven hundred and fifty thousand bushels, or a total of both
cereals of two and a quarter millions of bushels, representing a gross value in
the San Francisco market, at present prices, of one million eight hundred and
ninety-three thousand two hundred and fifty dollars. He further remarks, that
but a slight percentage of this is clear gain, and if the deterioration of the
soil, consequent upon the elements of the loss of fertility, carried away in the
grain—together with a justly claimed percentage on the capital invested in
farming —naught is left to the few thousand persons engaged in the industry but
the absorption of former earnings and accumulations of former days. This
showing, however, instead of having a depressing effect should rather stimulate
the farmer, aware as he is that in good years the fertile hills surrounding the
base of Mount Diablo and the prolific valleys of Pacheco, San Ramon, Moraga and
Pinole teem with plenty and prove a source of wealth to the lucky possessor.

   About two-thirds of the cultivated land in the county is devoted to wheat, it
being more extensively grown than any other grain, while its berry is large,
plump and hard, dry, white and strong, with much gluten, which makes a tough
dough. Indeed, the California wheat generally has this peculiar property, which
has gained for it the reputation of being the best in the world, while it is so
hard that without mills specially adapted to it, it cannot be ground into flour.

   Maize, Potatoes, Flax, Hemp, Alfalfa, and all other grains, tubers and
grasses grow to perfection, as do all ordinary products coming under the order
of things Agricultural.

   In the above-quoted article of Dr. Strentzel we find: " The area of Contra
Costa County is nearly four hundred thousand acres, which is classified,
according to the Assessor's returns, as: First grade, or broken hill and
mountain lands, salt marsh and swamp and overflowed lands, one hundred and
fifty-six thousand acres, at the Assessor's valuation of from three to six
dollars. The second grade are best grazing and poorest farming lands, and
partially reclaimed swamp and overflowed lands, one hundred and twenty-three
thousand six hundred acres, valued at six to thirteen dollars. Third grade, best
farming lands east of the Diablo range, second quality valley and best hill
lands lying west of the Diablo range, ninety-four thousand acres, valued at
twelve to twenty-two dollars. Fourth grade, best valley lands lying west of the
Diablo range, forty-four thousand five hundred and forty-four acres, valued at
twenty-two to one hundred and ten dollars. Of coal lands, two thousand two
hundred and sixty acres; possessory claims, twenty-one thousand acres, a total
of four hundred and forty-two thousand and four acres, valued at five millions
one hundred and fifteen thousand three hundred and seventeen dollars.

   "In comparing the small area under cultivation with the total aggregate of
land, suitable for profitable culture, we are impressed with the opportunities
offered of its immense increase; thus, in the least valuable portion, classed as
first grade, there are over seventy thousand acres of tule delta around the
mouth of the San Joaquin river, and overflowed land along its banks, and this
land, when reclaimed, will surpass in abundance and variety of products the
famous delta of the Nile. Why there is so little progress made in that line is
because the work of reclaiming those tule lands is prosecuted rather as a job
for fat contracts, and there is no well-devised system of procedure. The County
Supervisors, acting nominally as Swamp Land Commissioners, do not appear to have
power or inclination for effectively controlling the managers of the different
Reclamation Districts to compel the payment of assessments for work done on
contracts. In consequence, the work lags, with the apparent intent to freeze out
smaller holders, and consolidate the princely domain into the hands of a few.
From the experience so far gained in the reclamation work, it proves to be
entirely feasible and facile of accomplishment; and the success already achieved
in raising bounteous and luxuriant crops surpasses the most hopeful anticipations.

   "The value is enhanced by this tule locality being exempt from miasmatic
disease, and its resemblance to the great country bordering on the Nord
Sea—barring the roughness of that climate makes it appropriate to call ours the
future Holland of the Pacific—the most valuable portion for dairy purposes and
for endless luxuriant crops of grain. Almost as well the delicate children of
Pomona's vegetable realm take kindly to the situation; their feet daily laved by
the ever-recurring tides, find abundant food, and the long season of solar
action elaborates it into saccharine juice. Apples, pears, plums and berries
grow to perfection, and any favoring knoll furnishes a home for a vine, where
grapes, large and juicy, if not so sugary as those grown on the upland, produce
a most abundant and excellent article for the table. The innumerable sloughs and
water-courses, the natural roadways, are so many reservoirs for raising valuable
kinds of fish, and will teem with animal food as soon as our legislators get
awake to the importance of guarding and protecting public interests. Even the
most broken and barren mountain land of that section will yield fresh range and
outlooks for flocks of fleecy Angoras. Again will be spoken that word of ancient
days, 'The stone which the builders rejected is become the head of the corner.'

   "The second division comprises one hundred and twenty-three thousand six
hundred acres. The first-class grazing lands include much undulating hill land,
well adapted to grape-growing, which, owing to the diy climate of that section,
will prove the most desirable for raisin culture. The poorest class of farming
lands is so for want of water, and, if irrigated, may surpass the richest in
abundant yield. The partially reclaimed lands need only higher and stronger
levees, and a better knowledge of their management, to fully sustain the good
repute they have acquired during favorable seasons. This scope of country, lying
east of the Mount Diablo range, suffers with a minimum rainfall, and its sandy
soils soon become parched and its vegetation withered, rendering the crops
uncertain. Whenever full irrigation can be practiced by the arrested waste of
waters during copious rains, and from San Joaquin river, or artesian wells, it
will be sought, for its mild Winters arid early vegetation adapt it to the
culture of semi-tropical fruits—its sandy soil found well suited for growth of
the date, palm, tamarind, carol-tree, pistachio nut, olive and the orange family.

   "The ninety-four thousand acres of third grade, and forty-four thousand five
hundred and forty-four of fourth grade, comprise the garden spots of the county;
divided into small holdings, they will form a great hive of industry, furnishing
most desirable homes for the affluent, enjoyable with the beauty of most varied
scenery, the mildness and salubrity of its climate, all within easy reach of the
metropolis."

   Although we have confined our remarks chiefly to grain-growing, stock-raising
has a large share in the industrial resources of the county, the breeds of
cattle, horses, sheep, swine, etc., imported from the Eastern States and abroad,
being nowhere surpassed. Dairying is also carried on in a great degree, to such
an extent, indeed, that the making of butter for sale has, as an industry,
almost supplanted the rearing of cattle for the market, while sheep farming
receives its due attention; but all these give way to the raising of wheat.

   POMOLOGY.—Let us now take a retrospect of another division of pioneer labor,
in the fields of horticulture, which, though not so pretentious in its growth,
at the same time exercises not less abiding influence on our well being. It has
been said, "Fine fruits are the flowers of commodities." A tree planted is an
heirloom for future generations; it is a sign of expanded culture and
civilization; its shade as grateful to the wayfarer as to its owner, without
diminishing his substance. The Mission Fathers early planted orchards of such
kind as it was then possible to transplant from Mexico or old Spain; they had
several varieties of pears, a few apples and almonds. Pomegranates, figs, olives
and grapes were more assiduously cultivated. The grapes, mashed and fermented in
large rawhide vats, yielded an amber juice celebrated for its sugary and fruity
flavor. With the expansion of settlements, such trees and vines were sparsely
planted by the rancheros. In Contra Costa County, the earliest date, from the
year 1835 or 1837, the largest fruit garden was that of Francisco Castro, near
San Pablo; next, that at Pinole, and somewhat later Dr. Marsh, of Los Mejanos,
produced excellent grapes. On the advent of the Americans, fruit of any kind,
and especially grapes, bore fabulous prices, inducing many, from the innate love
of the occupation, others carried by the money point, to bend all their
energies, supported by capital, untiring industry and perseverance, to obtain
from foreign countries the choicest and best varieties, and acclimate them in
our midst. Unfortunately the majority of trees thus obtained at exorbitant
prices proved worthless, as not true to name, or not suited to the climate, or
not satisfactory to public taste; many were planted in improper locations, some
dried up, and more were killed by irrigation or overflows.

   A few fruit trees planted in the years 1851 and 1852 still survive, near
Lafayette and Martinez. In 1853 this industry received an impetus by the labors
of several citizens who then settled on El Hambre Creek; the brushy dale was
cleared after a hard struggle, and in the place of impenetrable bramble and
chaparral, a luxuriant growth of fruit trees and vines covers the ground. In the
opposite direction, near Clayton, another break was made with extensive
vineyards, and these, proving the adaptation of the soil and climate, induced
others to follow, and trees and vines, .planted on the increase, mark the
homesteads as the oases of grainfields. The culture of fruit for the home market
is already overdone, but thanks to the enterprise and inventive genius of our
day, we can as well speed the rail car with the most perishable fruits in their
natural condition, or preserve, desiccate and prepare them in any desirable
manner, and then load the precious product of preserve or raisins on another
"St. Charles" as easily as we do the golden wheat—with this difference in our
favor, that we shall be thus a preferred producer, dispensing the flower of
commodities, finding with us an extensive habitat, instead of an intruder on the
home productions of distant nations. Contra Costa County, within hail of San
Francisco, with the most perfect climate, possesses also the richest of soils,
and admirable locations. Here a slope, basking in the full sunshine, fit to
distil the sugar-essence of grapes; there a low, moist, cool valley, the home of
the apple and plum; or a rich, mellow, alluvial soil, sheltered, cosy and warm,
where the peach blushes as a rose, and gives challenge for its sugary juiciness.
All this ground, if well cultivated, is abundantly watered by the dews of
heaven, carried on soft wings to this their resting place. The choicest
varieties of grapes grow to perfection. Pomegranates, olives, figs and almonds
find a congenial home. Oranges require but little shelter when young, not more
than in Italy or Spain, soon get acclimated, and the golden fruit ripens well.

   The experience now gained in the manner of cultivation, the selection of
favorable locations, the knowledge of varieties desirable for certain uses, the
way of preparing them for market, and the ready foreign demand now created for
these products, make the venture now certain of pecuniary profit, and is soon to
be considered indispensable in mixed and advanced husbandry—which we must now
assiduously cultivate, if not wishing to he left behind in the race for
prosperity and advancement. Thus, from five to twenty acres on each farm,
planted with fruit suitable for drying, raisins or wine, will make a gradual
transit from the old ways of farming, without jeopardizing present sources of
income, and will create a demand for Alden factories, raisin camps and
co-operative wine cellars. Then it will be apparent how long we have remained in
an indolent, Rip Van Winkle slumber of grain-growing to supply cheap bread to
distant nations, and impoverishing ourselves for their sakes.



Additional Comments:
Extracted from:

HISTORY OF CONTRA COSTA COUNTY,
CALIFORNIA,
INCLUDING ITS GEOGRAPHY, GEOLOGY, TOPOGRAPHY, CLIMATOGRAPHY AND DESCRIPTION;
TOGETHER WITH A RECORD OF THE MEXICAN GRANTS; THE BEAR FLAG WAR; THE MOUNT
DIABLO COAL FIELDS; THE EARLY HISTORY AND SETTLEMENT, COMPILED FROM THE MOST
AUTHENTIC SOURCES; THE NAMES OF ORIGINAL SPANISH AND MEXICAN PIONEERS; FULL
LEGISLATIVE HISTORY OF THE COUNTY; SEPARATE HISTORY OF EACH TOWNSHIP, SHOWING
THE ADVANCE IN POPULATION AND AGRICULTURE;
ALSO,
Incidents of Pioneer Life; and Biographical Sketches
OF EARLY AND PROMINENT SETTLERS AND REPRESENTATIVE MEN;
AMD OF ITS TOWNS, VILLAGES, CHURCHES, SECRET SOCIETIES, ETC.
ILLUSTRATED.
SAN FRANCISCO: W. A. SLOCTUM & CO., PUBLISHERS
1882.


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