Los Angeles County CA Archives History - Books .....South Santa Monica And Ocean Park 1908
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Book Title: Ingersoll's Century History, Santa Monica Bay Cities

CHAPTER VI.

SOUTH SANTA MONICA AND OCEAN PARK.

WHEN the town site of Santa Monica was laid out it was surrounded by a very
large area of unbroken and unoccupied territory. The great San Vicente ranch was
mostly devoted to sheep pasturage. A few native Californians cultivated small
tracts on the Boca de Santa Monica; but that tract was also largely devoted to
sheep grazing. On La Ballona, Anderson Rose and one or two others had begun to
farm and the Machados raised some grain, but the greater portion of the tract
was uncultivated.

    In 1874 Mrs. Nancy A. Lucas, a wealthy widow, with three sons, purchased a
tract of 861 acres from the Machados. This joined the San Vicente on the north
and extended as far south as the present city limits of the city of Santa
Monica, the line having followed the lines of the Lucas tract. The price paid
was $14.00 per acre. Mrs. Lucas at once began to improve her property and in
1875 she erected a house on the highest point of her ranch—the hill between what
is now Strand and Hill streets and Third and Fourth. The house was an ambitious
two-story affair, costing some $12,000, and was for years the finest residence
in the vicinity of Santa Monica and a landmark of note until its destruction by
fire in December, 1904.

    Her sons farmed on a large scale, raising fine crops of barley on the place.
Two of them opened a lumber yard in Santa Monica and they were prominently
connected with affairs in the early days of the community. In 1881, Mrs. Lucas,
who was rather eccentric and lived on the place much of the time alone except
for her Chinese cook, died suddenly under circumstances which gave rise to
suspicion and much comment. She was said to have died from the effects of
strychnine poisoning, supposedly used for killing rats. The property passed into
the hands of her heirs and was soon broken up. The house, with three acres of
land, was sold to Miss Mary Green, in her day known as one of the most beautiful
women in California. She soon afterward married Dan Mooney, a well-known
character of early days. He had been a miner in Arizona and had acquired
considerable fortune. They took up their residence in the Lucas house which was
thereafter known as the "Mooney Mansion."

    August 17th, 1885. Mr. and Mrs. Mooney started to drive to Los Angeles.
While on the way, Mr. Mooney's pistol fell from his pocket and inflicted a
mortal wound in his back. Later Mrs. Mooney married Col. A. B. Hotchkiss, a
well-known and brilliant attorney, who was for many years a Southern Pacific
representative. He was also the editor of a magazine, Public Resources, which
did some effective work in advertising the country. He died April 3rd, 1905.
Col. and Mrs. Hotchkiss owned and, at times, occupied the Mooney Mansion until
its destruction. Many romantic tales have been set afloat at one time and
another about the old house which stood alone in state upon the hill overlooking
the ocean for so many years. Its burning was also mysterious—so mysterious that
the insurance companies refused to pay up without a lawsuit.

    In 1875 Mrs. Lucas sold a fifty-acre tract, adjoining the new town and
fronting the ocean, to Ivar A. Weid, a well-known Los Angeles capitalist. He at
once advertised, "South Santa Monica—Five minutes' walk from the new Wharf.
Block No. 4, with Ocean Frontage of 370 feet." Later he changed his ad to,
"SOUTH SANTA MONICA, Lots 60x150 feet. Villa Sites purchased by Judges Bicknell
and Glassell, Captain Thorn, and others." In March, 1876, the Outlook announces
that Captain Thorn had sent down a carload of shrubbery to be planted on his
place at South Santa Monica. March 22nd, 1876, this item appears in the Outlook:

    " Improvements are progressing rapidly over at South Santa Monica. Major
Mitchell, Captain Thorn and Judges Bicknell and Glassell are all building and
planting trees. We understand that General Stoneman and Major Hancock will begin
building within a few days. A well has been sunk and a windmill and tank erected
which is the common property of several lot owners. C. H. Edwards & Co., of Los
Angeles, are planting the shrubbery and making an excellent job of it." This
little settlement, which seems to have had rather a military flavor, remained
for some years the most exclusive and fashionable beach resort in the vicinity
of Los Angeles. Some of these old cottages still remain on the bluff and are
surrounded by fine trees. The Thorn place with its luxuriant growth of trees and
shrubbery is still kept up.

    Another early settlement in South Santa Monica was the Central tract, laid
out by J. W. Scott in 1876. A number of giant eucalyptus still remain of the
trees planted by him at this time.

    A portion of the Lucas ranch was divided into twenty-acre blocks by E. H.
Lucas, one of the sons. A number of these were sold in the early eighties to
various parties, including several Englishmen. The land was fertile and water
was easily obtained by putting down wells and some prosperous little ranches
were established here. Among these early settlers were Walter H. Wrenn, Nathan
Bundy, Thomas Carlisle, Joseph and John Bontty. In 1884 the Vawters purchased
100 acres of the Lucas lands, lying south of Hollister avenue and east of the
electric tracks. They paid $40.00 per acre for it, and in 1887 disposed of about
half of it for a large sum. In 1886, the Crippens, a real estate firm of Los
Angeles, bought 350 acres, extending from Eighth street east and to the San
Vicente ranch line. In December this was put upon the market as East Santa
Monica, villa lots of two and one-half acres being offered for $500.00, although
the land had been sold the previous year for $40.00 an acre.

    The boom struck this portion of Santa Monica with considerable force. The
Vawters sold the Santa Fe tract of 53 acres to R. R. Tanner and Thomas A. Lewis,
who put down a well, subdivided into lots, put in sidewalks and advertised an
auction sale to take place August roth, 1887. The highest price paid for one of
these lots was $725.00. Houses were built on the tract by T. A. Lewis, Messrs.
Tanner, W. S. Vawter and others. In March, the Wave Crest tract was put on sale
with an auction, and the newspapers report sales to amount of $52,490.00 for 90
lots. H. L. Jones subdivided a tract to which he gave the name of Ocean Spray,
120 lots, which met with ready sale. The Arcadia, Ocean View, Commercial
Company's tract and others were opened up during this period and a large number
of improvements were made. George Kintz built the Crystal Springs bath house and
plunge during the latter part of '87, and the Ballona and Santa Monica road was
incorporated, to build a standard guage road from the Port of Ballona to Santa
Monica, a distance of seven miles. M. L. Wicks, J. Bernard, Jr., and James
Campbell were among the incorporators. Work was at this time being pushed on
what was fondly hoped to be the terminus of the Santa Fe road at Ballona, and
Santa Monica was strong in the hope of a new "transcontinental" line.

    But after the sudden rise in values in 1887 and 1888, came a depression when
progress was at a standstill; many of the town lots lapsed into acreage property
and there was little sale for acreage even, although the drop in prices was not
so noticeable here as in many localities. South Santa Monica, although included
as far east as Eighth street in the city boundaries, as adopted in 1886, was
still a rural community with scattered residences and dusty roads. The street
car line had been extended from Santa Monica to the city limits in 1887, but the
service was infrequent and slow.

    In the spring of 1889 the Ostrich Farm was established at South Santa
Monica. A tract of seven acres, known as the "Santa Monica Tract," was fenced in
and thirty-four birds, with the nucleus of what was intended to be a menagerie,
were brought here from Kenilworth, in the Cahuenga valley, where they had been
located. In 1882, Dr. Charles S. Sketchley, an Englishman who had been engaged
in ostrich farming in South Africa, came to California and selected a site near
Anaheim as the best location he could find in California for an ostrich farm.
His attempt here was so successful that about 1885 a syndicate was formed and
Dr. Sketchley was sent again to Africa to secure new birds. He returned with
thirty-four fine birds which were placed on the Los Feliz rancho in the Cahuenga
foothills. A park and menagerie were planned and it was hoped to make this one
of the leading attractions of Los Angeles. In 1887 the Ostrich Farm railway was
built to Burbank and Kenilworth as the station at the Ostrich Farm was named;
but this location proved too out of the way and the venture was not a financial
success. Then South Santa Monica was chosen as a more accessible spot, offering
other attractions as well.

    About thirty birds were brought here under the management of Mr. Henry
Beauchamp, also English. But the Outlook states that Mr. Beauchamp was a "Moody
and Sankey convert" and refused to keep his place open on Sundays, "which is
good religion but poor business." After a couple of years the ostriches were
removed to a new location near the Southern Pacific depot and under the
management of Mr. Harold Perry, the place was made very attractive. Later Mr.
Frank Ellis became manager, and in 1893 sold six birds to Sells circus, which
were declared by the circus people to be the finest ostriches they had ever
seen. Many old resident will remember the chase which followed the escape of a
full grown African bird from the enclosure. The frantic creature, after being
driven over the hills in the vicinity of the Soldiers' Home was finally headed
homeward, only to dash past the farm, into the ocean—to its death. About 1895
the remaining birds were removed to Anaheim and this attraction ceased to be
counted among the charms of South Santa Monica.

    Up to 1890 this section had no school facilities and the children were
obliged to attend the Sixth street school in Santa Monica—a long and difficult
journey. After a good deal of discussion and several petitions for relief, the
school trustees finally decided, February, 1890, to establish a school in South
Santa Monica.

    February 25th, 1888, the board of school trustees voted to purchase two
lots, 12 and 13 of the Santa Fe tract, at $1,000.00 each. Nothing further in
reference to providing a school for the south side appears until February 10th,
1890, when the minutes state that a proposition was received from E. Emerson, to
build a house at South Santa Monica suitable for school purposes and to rent the
same to the district for six months at a rental of $50.00 per month. This
proposition was accepted by the board and February 28th they elected Miss Ellen
L. Huie as teacher, at a salary of $60.00 per month. What happened in the
interim does not appear but on the records under date of March 4th, all the
"above action" is rescinded, and Miss Huie was allowed $7.50 to reimburse her
for her expenses in coming to Santa Monica. At a special meeting of the board
held August 21st, 1890, Miss Huie was again employed to teach "the south side"
school at a salary of $50.00 per month, the "school to be discontinued at the
pleasure of the board."

    A small school house was built on the school lots, probably during the
summer of 1890. In August, 1895, a special tax of $1,500.00 was voted to build a
school house on the "south side" and a one-room building was put up and in the
fall was occupied, with Miss Alice M. Frazier as teacher.

    Early in the seventies an Englishman, Col. Hutchinson, loaned money to the
Machados, taking mortgages upon various pieces of land as security. One of these
was a narrow strip of beach frontage extending from Strand-street to the
southern limits of La Ballona grant. This strip of sand was supposed to be
worthless for any purpose, unless a wharf for commercial purposes could be built
from it. Apparently the belief was general that the only thing needed to make a
commercial city of Santa Monica was a wharf where vessels might land. After the
abandonment of the "old wharf," in 1878, five acres of land were donated by Mrs.
Lucas and others and Juan Bernard began the construction of a wharf which is was
fondly hoped might restore Santa Monica to the shipping lists of the Pacific
coast. But the structure was never completed and no boat ever landed there. In
1888, Messrs. Lewis and Van Every proposed to build a wharf from the foot of
Bicknell avenue and in 1891 the proposition of the Terminal Wharf Company came
up, various grants and concessions being made in consequence; but no wharf was
built.

    In 1892 the Santa Fe and Santa Monica railroad was incorporated and
proceeded to secure a right of way from Inglewood to Santa Monica. A concession
of twelve acres of land was made them by the Terminal Wharf Company and Kinney
and Ryan, on condition that the company expend at least $15,000 in improvements,
including a wharf and a pavillion. Considerable difficulty was met with in
obtaining the right of way, condemnation proceedings being necessary in some
cases; but a strip 130 feet wide was finally secured from the city limits to the
Southern Pacific reservation. A depot was located near the Ostrich Farm and on
June i8th, 1892, the Santa Fe brought in its first train, with a widely
advertised excursion to the "Coney Island of the Pacific." Later a building
known as "the pavilion" was erected on Hill street and a cement sidewalk laid to
the ocean front.

    A group of trees on land near this depot was then known as Vawter Park; with
the Ostrich Farm, the new pavilion, and the many beach improvements being made
by Messrs. Abbot Kinney and F. G. Ryan, who had lately secured title to the
Hutchinson property on the ocean front, South Santa Monica began to count itself
as a "resort."

    The Outlook for May 6th, 1893, says: "It is quite lively on the South Side.
Three new cottages have just been completed on the Santa Monica tract, to be
given away with the lots distributed on the first of June. A number of summer
residences are either completed or in course of construction. The land company
is now putting down a plank walk from the tract across the sand hills to the
sea, and it is on the programme to begin the construction of a bath house at an
early date. Altogether we can safely say that the 'South Side' will be in the
swim this summer."

    The houses alluded to were built by Messrs. Kinney and Ryan on their Santa
Monica tract and were given away with lots sold by distribution. Prices were
$100.00 per lot, on easy terms.

    In the spring of 1893 the Young Men's Christian Association of Southern
California, after considerable discussion and looking about, decided to accept
the proposition of Messrs. Kinney and Ryan to donate them a strip of land
between the Santa Fe tract and ocean, 250 feet on ocean front and extending back
to the Santa Fe right of way, about five acres included. June 2ist, the Young
Men's Christian Association Ocean Park Company was duly organized with a capital
stock of $10,000, and the following incorporators: J. C. Salisbury, M. H.
Merriman, F. H. Rindge, A. D. Childress, S. H. Wheeler, A. A. Adair, of
Riverside; Charles E. Day, president; R. G. Lunt, vice-president; George W.
Parsons, secretary; F. M. Potter, treasurer; O. T. Johnson, J. H. Brawley, W. F.
Bosbyshell, C. C. Reynolds, Lyman Stewart, and other prominent men of Southern
California In announcing its decision, the incorporators give as reasons for
their selection: "The land is about three-fourths of a mile south of Arcadia
Hotel, is close to the railroad station of the great Santa Fe route, which
reaches nearly every hamlet and village in Southern California. It has a fine,
clean, sandy beach, of gentle slope, making a safe and delightful place for
bathing. Near this land is a fine 70 by 1000 feet grove, with pavilion erected
therein, making a pleasant place for a picnic and the only accessible place
where a grove and the beach are so close together. A fine wharf will be
constructed close to this land in the near future, when the coast steamers will
connect with the Santa Fe route for all points on their line, It will be one of
the most popular lines between Los Angeles and Catalina Island." Which shows
that the Y. M. C. A. people were no better at prophesying future results than
the sanguine "wharf boomers" of Santa Monica.

    In consideration of the donation by Messrs. Kinney and Ryan and Messrs.
Vawter, the "Ocean Park Company", named from the eucalyptus grove of the
Vawters, was to build a commodious bath house and an auditorium, which it was
expected would be the scene of many religious conventions and assemblies. The
bath house was built during the summer and many new cottages were put up. In
July an auction sale of lots took place, 80 lots, 25 by 100 feet, being sold at
about $45.00 apiece.

    During this summer St. David's Mission, Episcopalian, held services in the
school house and the South Santa Monica Baptist Mission was organized by Rev. H.
S. Baker, and in 1894 the Baptist chapel was erected.

    In May, 1895, Kinney and Ryan named their settlement "Ocean Park" and the
Santa Fe giving this name to their station, the existence of the district of
Ocean Park may be said to date from this year. The Y. M. C. A. people put up
some new buildings this summer and Kinney and Ryan put in a half mile of beach
sidewalk, the first on the beach and a greatly appreciated improvement. In
September, the Santa Fe fulfilled its promise of a wharf by putting in a new
type in such structures, using iron pipe for piles. It was located about 300
feet south of Hill street and was only 500 feet in length, and thus the
connection with the great world, which had been hoped for, was again delayed.

    The Y. M. C. A. and the summer visitors were favored by many pleasant
entertainments, concerts and lectures during this season and Ocean Park began to
be regarded as a most desirable location for those who wished a quiet and
inexpensive summer outing. Many lots were leased or purchased and many modest
cottages were put up as summer homes. These first beach cottages were very
simple affairs—a long box of upright boards, with a couple of partitions, being
the usual pattern. At this time there were few buildings south of Hill street
and the "hills" were still the favorite place of residence. A cluster of small
business buildings had grown up about the street car terminus and the Santa Fe
station.

    Ocean Park, although within the corporate limits of Santa Monica, had not
been supplied with water by the municipality. Messrs. Kinney and Ryan had their
own water supply piped to the beach; but the people on other tracts began to
discuss the advisability of having a water system and in December, 1895, the
"City Water Company" was formed, with a capital stock of $20,000, and with J. H.
Claudius, E. J. Vawter, D. M. Clark, G. R. Green and E. J. Vawter, Jr., as
incorporators. Its object was to supply South Santa Monica, with water and to
secure this wells were put down on the Vawter tract and pipes laid through the
district. This company was later succeeded by the Ocean Park Water Company.

    On June 30th, 1896, the first electric car made its initial trip through
South Santa Monica, after a day of strenuous labor on the part of the employees
and officials of the Los Angeles and Pacific electric line. Their subsidy of
$5,000, given by W. S. and E. J. Vawter, for what was known as the "loop line,"
expired at midnight of June 30th, and the work had been delayed to the last
possible moment. At 9:55 p.m., the first car left the corner of Ocean and Oregon
avenues and, after crossing the bridge, ran down Second street to Hill street,
thence eastward to Fourth and returned to Ocean avenue. The car and its
occupants were given an informal but none the less hearty welcome by the South
Siders, who felt that at last they were to be brought into touch with the world
(North Beach). The coming of the electric line was, indeed, a great advance for
this settlement which had been so long hampered by poor transportation
facilities. This year Santa Monica began to talk seriously of the sewage problem
and proposed to locate its outfall at a point south of the city limits. From
this time on date the sewer troubles of the beach.

    In July an old-time auction sale with all its accompaniments, took place, H.
L. Jones reviving his "Ocean Spray" tract which had been first exploited in 1887
and going one better on the methods of boom days by offering "one lot free to
the lucky holder of a thirty round-trip ticket." At this time the Santa Fe was
giving transportation at very reasonable rates to prospective purchasers of
Ocean Park property. Ben E. Ward, now of lamented memory, was the auctioneer and
eighty-eight lots were disposed of by his beguiling words— and the very real
attractions of the location.

    May 3rd, 1897, witnessed a serious loss to Ocean Park in the burning of the
Y. M. C. A. auditorium, a large two-story building, which had cost about $3,000
when erected in 1893. This was a misfortune as plans had already been made for
the most elaborate exercises yet held by the Y. M. C. A. assembly during the
coming season. The loss was complete as there was no water to save the property,
after the fire, which was evidently incendiary, was discovered. There was no
insurance; but Mr. Day, president of the Ocean Park Company, was equal to the
occasion. He at once set about securing new quarters and in August the
University Assembly, with a full program of excellent speakers and music, was
successfully carried out. Among the speakers were Bishop Fallows, of New York,
and Professor Syle, of the State University. Miss Ida Benfey gave a number of
dramatic readings and a series of brilliant their summer guests appeared to find
the attractions of the surf and the military concerts were presented. But, it
must be confessed that Santa Monicans and encampment, the tennis court and polo
races greater than such a feast of reason and culture and the assembly was not a
financial success.

    In May the new City Water Company turned the water into a mile and a half of
mains, the water coming from two wells and being stored in a 50,000 gallon tank.
Thus, at last, the South Side hills had an adequate water supply and a chance at
fire protection. The electric light system was also extended to Ocean Park this
year and added to the metropolitan claims of the new resort. Many new buildings,
including several stores, a ten-room house erected by Mrs. Bernard, forty or
more beach cottages were added this year.

    Ocean Park had now become ambitious. She had grown so rapidly and attained
such distinction that the citizens felt themselves entitled to every advantage
enjoyed by the "other side." The South Santa Monica Municipal League was
organized to "promote all measures that will benefit the city; to encourage all
improvements, both public and private, to oppose saloons and disreputable places
in South Santa Monica," etc. A Ladies' Mutual Benefit Association was also
organized, its main object being to build a hall for public meetings and use, a
lot having been donated by Kinney and Ryan for the purpose. All of these efforts
added to the natural advantages offered and the spirit of enterprise which had
been shown in developing what had seemed an almost worthless territory, brought
about a development that became one of the phenomena of the times.

OCEAN PARK DISTRICT.

    The settlement known as Ocean Park was separated from Santa Monica by the
arroyo and the wide unimproved tract belonging to the Southern Pacific
reservation. This was unfortunate, as it made communication between the two
points difficult. The Santa Fe service was irregular; the horse car line and its
successor, the electric line, gave infrequent service; the drive over dusty,
ungraded roads, and rickety bridges was not tempting, and the walking through a
mile of sand or dust was certainly not attractive. The settlement about the
Santa Fe depot and the Y. M. C. A. holdings was largely made up of transient
visitors from the interior, who rented cottages, or built upon leased lands.
They seldom visited Santa Monica and scarcely realized that they were within
that municipality. It was natural that they should object to the long journey to
the postoffice and begin to express a desire for a postoffice of their own.
During 1898 the subject was agitated and promises secured, although the office
did not open for business until July, 1899.

    This year Kinney and Ryan opened the Ocean Park race track and golf links,
which were improved by grading and planting a large number of trees. One of the
first golf tournaments held in California took place on these links when they
were opened to the public, in July, 1898. The same gentlemen had contracted with
the city trustees to build a wharf on the piling used to carry the outfall
sewer. This wharf was located at what was known as Pier avenue and was completed
in August It was 1,250 feet in length and afforded a fine opportunity to
fishermen and pleasure seekers. The proprietors invited the public to a free
barbecue and clambake on the evening of Monday, August 29th, which was attended
by a big crowd who enjoyed the feast, music, speeches and dancing.

    By coincidence, the old Santa Fe wharf was condemned by the city trustees on
the day the new wharf was opened and a few days later the old wharf was
practically destroyed by a storm. The completion of the new wharf stimulated the
building of the long proposed beach walk connecting the Kinney and Ryan walk
with Santa Monica. The Southern Pacific began by constructing a board walk, 16
feet wide, in front of its property from Railroad avenue to the Crystal plunge,
and the North Beach Company followed with a walk connecting this and the bath
house. The city and citizens later built walks and thus about 1902 easy
communication was at last established between the "north side" and the "south
side."

    The "Ocean View," an eighteen-room hotel, was built by G. H. Strong, and was
opened July 10th, with a spread; but only a few days later the new hotel was
destroyed by fire. Ocean Park suffered much during its early history from fires
which seemed to be, in many cases, incendiary and which were very destructive on
account of the lack of fire-fighting appliances and water. A few weeks later the
store of Chambers & Co. was burned with its stock of groceries. There was a long
dispute over the insurance in this case and a good deal of feeling was aroused
by the circumstances.

    The Methodist church began holding services in the Santa Fe depot in
October, with Rev. Robert S. Fisher as pastor; in August, 1899, the church was
organized as the South Santa Monica M. E. church; the old Methodist chapel was
donated to them by the North Side church and removed to its present location on
Lake street.

1899.

    The untimely death of Francis G. Ryan, of the firm of Kinney & Ryan, who had
practically created Ocean Park, led to a change and in 1899 T. H. Dudley married
Mrs. Ryan and became interested with Mr. Kinney in the development of the now
promising beach resort. Aggressive advances were made in the spring of this
year. The Outlook of March 10th says: "All told, there are now 200 cottages on
this property, a great many of which were erected last year. There are now some
ten or twelve in process of erection and contracts for new ones are being made
every week. These cottages are not mere shacks, but will be neat and commodious,
costing all the way from $350 to $1000. They are being put up by first-class
tenants, mostly professional and business men from Los Angeles. Water is
supplied from the city water works and electric lights are being put into the
more pretentious structures. Beach lots are rented at about $15 per year to
those who will put up neat and substantial cottages. No land is sold outright,
but long leases are given."

    Messrs. Kinney and Dudley purchased the old Y. M. C. A. bath house this
year, moved it a block south and refitted it. In July, Pier avenue was opened,
Kinney and Dudley giving a deed to the necessary land to the city. The first
building put up was a bowling alley, situated near the beach and carried on by
Mr. J. G. Holborow. July 28th the post office of "Oceanpark" was opened for
business. This office had been secured after a long and hard contest by Mr.
Kinney, it being the only instance of two separate post offices established
within a single municipality. Mr. L. B. Osborne was the first postmaster and the
office was located in his grocery store on Second street.

    This year Mr. E. J. Vawter began the development of the carnation beds which
have become one of Santa Monica's best-known industries. He devoted fifteen
acres of land on South Fourth street to the culture of flowers, mostly
carnations and roses. A 5,000-gallon tank stored water for irrigation of the
tract. The soil and conditions proved to be favorable for the production of the
finest varieties and the venture proved most successful. Large green houses and
increased acreage are now devoted to the propagation of flowers which are
marketed in Los Angeles and shipped to distant points. Many street improvements
were made during this year and Kinney and Dudley planted out nearly twenty acres
to trees, using 10,000 eucalyptus trees alone, in the vicinity of the race track.

1900.

    Early in the season improvements began to multiply in "Oceanpark" as the
growing settlement was now officially known, although it was in reality a part
of the city of Santa Monica and more properly "South Santa Monica." The Santa Fe
company astonished its tenants, who had erected cottages on leased lots, by
ordering them to vacate at once; the unfortunate cottage owners had to hustle to
find new locations for their buildings. The company leveled the ground and made
some improvements; but in August it was announced that the entire South Santa
Monica holdings of the Santa Fe company had been purchased by Messrs. Hart and
Fraser, of Los Angeles. The new proprietors named the tract "Central Beach" and
immediately began grading and putting streets through it. The first street
opened through and paved between the beach and the railroad tracks was India,
now Hill street. In a short time lots on the ocean front were selling for
$1,000, and lots on the side streets at from $300 up. Building restrictions were
put on the property, which included 185 lots, 25 by TOO feet in size, extending
from Hart avenue on the north to Grand on the south and between the beach and
the railway tracks.

    In February the Oceanpark Fire Company was organized with A. N. Archer,
president; J. H. Hassinger, secretary and treasurer; William Menzies, foreman;
C. J. Marvin and J. Rudisill, assistants. A "bucket brigade" was organized,
later a hose cart and hose was procured. In 1902, Mr. William Martin, owner of
the Martin block, on the corner of Ash and Second streets, gave the use of a
part of a lot for a fire house and the board of city trustees provided the
lumber for a small building, and bought a fire bell.

    Oceanpark now had her own water systems, fire company, school, churches and
business houses. Many of its residents were newcomers who knew little .about the
past history of the place or about the "north side." It was quite natural that
they should think that they might better manage their own affairs and pay their
taxes for improvements in their own section. As a consequence, it was not
surprising that a movement for the division of the territory south of Front
street from "old" Santa Monica should arise. Petitions for the division were
duly drawn up and presented and then the people on both sides began to discuss
the question in all of its bearings. When the election came on November 12th,
1900, to the surprise of the principal movers in the action who, by the way,
were all old settlers and were actuated perhaps more by personal feeling in the
matter than by any serious consideration for the good of the community at large,
the proposition was snowed under. The vote stood 341 against division and only
59 for it. Even the warmest advocates of division were compelled to admit that
they had been mistaken in the sentiment of the people of South Santa Monica; and
the possibility of creating two towns out of 'Santa Monica was forever settled
by this decision.

1901.

    The growth of "Ocean Park" as the district extending from Azure street, now
Hollister avenue, along the beach to the south beyond the city limits of "Santa
Monica, had progressed by leaps and bounds since 1898. But the development of
1901 and the two or three succeeding years threw all previous records of beach
development into the shade. Ocean Park, started as a gathering place for the Y.
M. C. A. and kindred societies: a quiet colony of summer homes, occupied by
people of moderate means, for the most part, suddenly became the most popular
and fashionable beach resort in Southern California. And with equally surprising
suddenness it developed into a bustling business town, having stores, hotels,
banks and newspapers and all the necessary commercial facilities for a community
of several thousand inhabitants.

    The extension of the electric line south of Hill street and the erection of
a power house south of the city limits were indications of the southward trend
-of improvements. The pushing forward of this work, of course, was followed by
rapid settling up of the territory thus opened up. The electric line was
completed to a point one mile south of Second and Hill streets on April 30th. In
August it became known that the Los Angeles-Pacific had acquired a new and more
direct right of way between Los Angeles and Ocean Park. They had purchased the
old right of way abandoned by the Santa Fe Railroad company, and begun the
construction of a double track via Palms. This, with the new cut-off by way of
Rosedale cemetery, would considerably shorten the time between the city and this
beach.

    Messrs. Kinney and Dudley had already extended their beach walk some
distance south of Pier avenue and had provided electric lights, water and sewer
system for this new district. The beautiful beach, the opportunity to build
almost within reach of the ocean spray, the convenient trolley service, and the
fine class of people who had already located here; as well as the fishing,
bathing and amusements offered, attracted residents and visitors. While the
rapid increase in the value of property attracted investors, both little and
big. Many people who had leased or bought merely for a beach home during the
summer had found themselves unexpectedly enriched by the changed conditions, and
immediately re-invested their gains. Many capitalists were also attracted by the
chance to make quick money. By the first of March more than fifty lots in the
new Short Line Beach tract had been sold and a number of buildings were under way.

    One of the most important improvements of this year was the Club House built
just north of the golf links, laid out the year before. This building, 50 by 80
feet, with a ten-foot veranda below and a roof veranda was put up by Messrs.
Kinney and Dudley. Some $15,000 was spent on the building and the improvements
in the tennis courts, golf links and race course and the place was made an ideal
home for a country club. The Ocean Park Country Club was organized with Messrs.
Kinney, Dudley and H. M. Grindley as directors. They at once planned a week's
sports for August and in that month a successful tennis tournament, and polo
races and golf tournament attracted a large number of visitors and participants.

    In April. Messrs. Hart and Fraser reported that only three lots of the
Central Beach tract, put on the market in the fall, were left, and that $85,000
had been expended in buildings erected on this tract. Among those locating here
were Mr. G. A. Hart, Mr. A. R. Fraser, Judge R. B. Stevens, W. D. Winston, J. R.
Newberry, A. Lichtenberger, William Hammel, and other business men of Los
Angeles, many of whom built permanent homes here.

    The Ocean Wave tract, south of Central Beach, was offered for sale in March
by Messrs. Kinney and Dudley and was all sold out in less than a month. South
Second street was paved and sidewalked during the year and several new business
blocks put up on Second street—this still being the business center of Ocean
Park. Pier avenue was surveyed and graded from the railroad tracks to the ocean
front and the lots offered for sale. In October a two-story frame building, with
two store rooms below, was put up, the second building on this street About July
1st, it was announced that Abner Ross, a Los Angeles capitalist, would build a
seventy-room hotel on Pier avenue. This substantial two-story building, which
was long the principal hotel of Ocean Park, was erected in. just twenty-four
days from the time work began. Early in August it was opened to the public under
the management of J. G. Holborow and wife, who furnished it and gave it the
name. This building was later known as the Metropole and is now the Hotel Savoy.
It was estimated that over 200 cottages were built on the sand during the year,
the building expenditures reaching $118,691, excluding the hotel and the Casino;
$18,500 was expended in improving the water system, and at least $25,000 was
paid out for improvements made by the L. A.-P. railway.

1902.

     But, rapid as was the pace set in 1901, the advance made in 1902 excelled
it. A change took place at the beginning of the year, which meant much in the
history of this section. This was the sale announced February I2th, of Mr.
Dudley's interests in the Kinney and Dudley property to Messrs. A. R. Fraser, H.
R. Gage and G. M. Jones; Abbot Kinney retaining his half interest. This sale
included the beach from Azure street, now Fraser avenue, to a point 700 feet
below the Country Club house, now Horizon avenue, and the club house and grounds.

    If such a thing were possible, new energy was given to the developments
along the ocean front by the new management. It was announced that the wharf
would be rebuilt, a bath house and pavilion built at Pier avenue, and the old
plank walk on the ocean front rebuilt. The entire tract was to be sewered and
the alley between the front and the tracks, now Speedway, would be improved. But
the most important move was the change of policy with regard to leasing lots. It
was announced that no more lots would be leased and that leasers would be given
until May 1st, to purchase their lots or vacate. Hereafter lots would only be
sold with building restrictions which would put an end to the building of cheap
"beach cottages." Many of the lease holders purchased their lots and removed the
old buildings to put up modern cottages which would yield an income on the
increased valuation of the property. Many of those who did this realized
handsomely on the investment. To many, however, the prices charged for lots and
the building restrictions seemed prohibitive and the cottages were removed to
cheaper property. During 1902-03, it was a common sight to find a cottage on
wheels moving back from the ocean front to the hills, under the escort of
William Menzies.

    In March, 1902, the Ocean Park bank was organized with T. H. Dudley, Abbot
Kinney, Martin Dudley and Plez James as stockholders. It opened for business
April 8th in a building on Second street; but work was soon begun on a brick and
steel building on Pier avenue and before the end of the year the new bank was
occupying handsomely fitted quarters and had added a savings department.

    The previous year the old school house hid proved inadequate and the Baptist
church was rented for the higher grades. The rapidly increasing school
population made a new building for the Ocean Park school imperative, and after
an enthusiastic public meeting on the South Side, followed by another public
discussion of the question on the North Side, the school trustees called for a
bond election to vote $12,000 for a suitable school house for Ocean Park. The
bonds were carried, practically without opposition; the two old buildings were
disposed of and the handsome eight-room structure, now known as the Washington
school house, was built on the old location, the corner of Ash and Fourth
streets. Two additional lots were purchased for the grounds and the entire
building and grounds cost over $16,000.

    The election of W. S. Vawter as city trustee to represent the South Side,
and the fact that T. H. Dudley was president of the board of city trustees,
assured this section of full representation in civic affairs and still further
obliterated the old feeling of estrangement between the two sections of the
city. The building boom continued. June 12th, the Los Angeles Saturday Post
writes thus of this beach:

    "There are seven hundred cottages at Ocean Park. They are all tasteful and
many of them are pretentious. Ocean Park is not a place with a stiff,
ceremonious air. There is a hospitable individuality, a generous atmosphere, in
their architecture that shows as much as anything else that the good people of
Ocean Park are not divided into social cliques or factions."

    During this year Pier avenue became the leading business street. Among the
business blocks of the year were the Rice and Kellogg block, of three stores,
with housekeeping rooms above; a two-story building put up by Gillett & Co.; the
new bank building, occupying four lots and costing $10,000; a two-story block
erected by Abbot Kinney. The rapid rise in values is well represented by Pier
avenue property. In 1900, lots on this street sold for a few dollars; in 1901,
$500 would have been considered a high price for a lot; in 1902,
twenty-five-foot lots sold for $40 per front foot; in 1903, a lot which had been
purchased for $30 per front foot, was sold for $85 per foot. In 1904, C. J.
Wilson sold a block on Pier avenue with a two-story frame building and a lot of
54 feet frontage for $21,000, and it is stated that the property was then
yielding 10 per cent, on the investment.

    The company spent several thousand dollars this year in improving the sewer
service. Twelve miles of new sidewalks were laid by the city and private parties
and many streets were graded. It is estimated that street improvements reached
about $20,000. On Saturday, November 15th, 1902, appeared the first issue of the
Ocean Park Review, with A. Bert Bynon as editor.

    On August 2nd, the new line of the trolley road by way of Palms, was opened,
the event being celebrated by an excursion of the Jonathan Club of Los Angeles,
and distinguished citizens, who were entertained with a fish dinner at the
country club. The Ocean Park Country Club sent out elaborate invitations,
announcing a polo match, tea, dinner, and reception, with speeches and dancing,
in honor of the occasion. The invitations read:

    "The Los Angeles-Pacific Railway company will open its Short Line cut-off
from Los Angeles to Ocean Park, tomorrow, Saturday, August 2nd, 1902. And in
honor of this event the Los Angeles Country Club has arranged for a
demonstration that will mark the epoch as the most important in the history of
Ocean Park up to this date.

    "The opening of this line of railway communication is recognized as of such
importance to the future welfare and prosperity of Ocean Park that the head
moulders of the present and future greatness of that noted beach resort
appreciate the necessity of this great proposed demonstration.

    "And these head moulders of the present and future greatness are Messrs.
Fraser, Jones, Kinney and Gage, the proprietors of the Country Club, and it is
these gentlemen who extend a cordial invitation to participate in the exercises
and the reception of the Jonathan Club of Los Angeles and the other guests."

1903.

    The new year showed no diminishment in building or in general improvement in
the "sand district." Work was begun early in the year on the pavilion at the
foot of Pier avenue, which was to be the most complete pleasure resort on the
beach. When it was opened to the public in the spring, it at once attracted the
Sunday crowds. The question of granting a restaurant liquor license for the
pavilion greatly harassed many of the older residents of Ocean Park, who had
greatly prided themselves upon the high moral tone of their community. The
matter was discussed warmly and was made an issue in the spring election which
was hotly contested, the liquor question and the traction franchises being the
mooted points. The result of the election was not satisfactory to the
"no-license" element who forced a special election, at which they lost heavily
in votes. And the liquor license was granted for the pavilion— the first one
ever granted in Ocean Park district.

    The Traction matter was quite as important in its bearing on Ocean Park
affairs. This company had been interested in a project to build a line to Santa
Monica Bay by Abbot Kinney, who was its representative in its negotiations here.
A right of way had been secured; after a long fight which developed much
opposition, the necessary franchises were granted by the city of Santa Monica
and work was actively begun on a competing electric line which held out hopes of
a twenty-five cent fare. The new road was well under way when the sale by
Messrs. Fraser and Jones, of the Ocean Park right of way—the old Santa Fe right
of way—to Sherman and Clark of the Los Angeles-Pacific, and the later sale to
the Harriman interests, put an end to this prospect of competition; as the new
road thus lost its terminals.

    Several new tracts were opened up for settlement during the year. The Ocean
Villa Tract, east of the electric road and opposite the Country Club was sold in
half acre lots which were quickly subdivided and a new residence district grew
up. In September, Ocean Park Villa Tract No. 2, 60 acres extending from Ballona
avenue to Eighth street was put on the market and made a record as a quick
seller. These ventures were so successful that E. J. Vawter offered 60 lots for
sale on the hill in the vicinity of Hill and Fourth streets, all of which were
soon disposed of. Pier avenue continued to hold its own as the principal
business street. A three-story brick block was erected by Maier and Zobelin, and
a new block designed especially to accommodate the postoffice was built. July
23d the postoffice was moved from Second street to its new home and several of
the business houses on Second street followed it to the new location. Lots on
the ocean front, near Pier avenue, sold this summer for $2,300 to $2,600. Marine
avenue was opened up, paved and sidewalked this year and Hart and Fraser avenues
were "parked." The placing of the sidewalk in the middle of a street, with
gardens bordering it on either side was an innovation which has proved very
attractive in the beach districts, and has now been adopted in many places,
although Ocean Park claims it as original with her.

    The beautiful home built for J. M. Davies, a ten-room house, complete in
every detail of artistic finish, and an equally handsome home for Thomas
Fitzgerald, now owned by Nat Goodwin, marked a new era in beach residences. The
selection of Ocean Park as a permanent home by such men as Frank Wiggins, W. T.
Gibbon, and many other prominent business men of Los Angeles, made the place a
suburban as well as a resort town.

    The rapid growth of South Santa Monica and of the territory south of the
city limits naturally gave rise to much discussion as to the future government
of this prosperous young city. The attempt to divide the city of Santa Monica
had proved so impracticable that it was now proposed to incorporate a new town
to the south, with the hope that when the new town was fairly organized, the
Ocean Park district of Santa Monica might experience a change of sentiment and
cast its fortunes with the new corporation. The matter was fully discussed in
all of its bearings and in the fall the necessary steps were taken and the
election called for February, 1904. On that date, the new town began its
existence and the name "Ocean Park" became the property of a district which had
been in existence less than eighteen months, leaving the postoffice of "Ocean
Park" within the bounds of Santa Monica, and creating endless confusion as to
the location of and the meaning of the name "Ocean Park."



Additional Comments:
Extracted from:

Ingersoll's century history, Santa Monica Bay cities: prefaced with a brief
history of the state of California, a condensed history of Los Angeles County,
1542 to 1908: supplemented with an encyclopedia of local biography and
embellished with views of historic landmarks and portraits of representative
people.

Los Angeles: Luther A. Ingersoll (1908)


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