Los Angeles County CA Archives History - Books .....Venice Of America 1908
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Book Title: Ingersoll's Century History, Santa Monica Bay Cities

CHAPTER XI.

VENICE OF AMERICA AND ITS FOUNDER.

ABBOT KINNEY was born in Brookside, N. J., November 16, 1850, his parents being
Franklin Sherwood and Mary Cogswell Kinney, both descendants of old colonial
families. His boyhood was mostly passed in Washington where his uncle, James
Dixon, represented the state of Connecticut in the United States Senate. Here
the young man had advantages of education and of contact with many of the
prominent men of that time and thus retains memories of the men who made the
history of that period. To complete his education, he went to Europe and studied
at Heidelberg, Germany, and in France and Switzerland, perfecting himself in
foreign languages and making a special study of political, economic and social
problems.

    On returning to Washington, he became interested in the tobacco business and
after a couple of years practical experience, he decided to go to Turkey and
make a personal study of their methods of manufacturing cigarettes. In 1877, he
started on a three years' tour of the world, one year of which was passed in
Egypt. His keen powers of observation and active intellect were devoted during
these years to the study of conditions as he found them in various countries,
and the conclusions thus acquired have since been applied in many ways to the
problems presented in our own country.

    He reached San Francisco, on his return voyage, in the winter of 1880, and
finding himself unable to proceed directly east on account of heavy snow
blockades in the Sierras, he came to Southern California. Here, after a few
weeks spent at the old Sierra Madre Villa, he felt that he had found the climate
for which he had sought the world over. He secured a large tract of unimproved
land in the vicinity of Sierra Madre and at once set about creating a beautiful
and profit-yielding home out of what had been a waste. He planted out a large
citrus orchard and turned his mind to the solution of the many difficulties
which seemed almost unsurmountable to the pioneer horticulturists of this
region. As a result, "Kinneloa" became a fine example of the possibilities of
citrus culture and is known as one of the most beautiful country homes in
California.

    Broad-minded and public-spirited, he devoted the knowledge gained through
investigation and costly experiments to the public use and became one of the
projectors of the Southern California Pomological Society and served as its
president.

    In 1883, he was appointed a commissioner to serve with Helen Hunt Jackson in
an investigation into the condition of the Mission Indians of Southern
California. After several months of travel and personal examination of the
various reservations and their people, Mr. Kinney prepared a report to the
government, advising the breaking up of the reservation system and the use of
common-sense methods in the treatment of these miserable and helpless remnants
of the first occupants of our country. It was during this period that Mrs.
Jackson gathered much of the material used in the construction of Ramona and in
her articles on the Missions and the Mission Indians.

    In 1884, Mr. Kinney was married to Miss Margaret, the daughter of Judge
James D. Thornton, justice of the Supreme Court of California.

    In 1885 he was appointed chairman of the newly created board of forestry.
Since that time Mr. Kinney has devoted much research and practical experimenting
to the subject of forestry, particularly in its relation to the welfare of
Southern California. In 1887 a tract of twenty acres, located on Santa Monica
Heights, was donated to the state as a site for a Forestry Experimental Station
in this section of the state. The board at once set apart a fund to be devoted
to this purpose. Mr. Kinney took a keen interest in the experiments and
practical working of this station and made an especially exhaustive study of
Eucalypti, the results of which he later published. He was also instrumental in
securing the initiation of National Forestry on a practical basis and in
procuring the legislation which set aside the forest reserves in California and
in establishing the School of Forestry in connection with the University of
Southern California. This school gave especial attention to the subjects of
forestry in relation to water-sheds and preservation of forests, with lectures
by such men as Abbot Kinney, A. H. Koebig, Henry Hawgood, J. B. Lippincott, T.
S. Van Dyke and T. P. Lukens.

    Mr. Kinney is an unusual combination—the practical man of affairs, looking
personally to his large interests—and at the same time the student and thinker.
He has been an investigator along many lines of thought and has published
several books as the result of his study. In 1893, he issued "The Conquest of
Death," dealing with a sociological subject, and "Tasks by Twilight," which sets
forth some original theories as to the training of the young. As the author is
the parent of five sons, he had practical data to deal with. He devoted much
study to the workings of the Australian ballot system and published a pamphlet
on this subject and earnestly advocated its adoption in this country, lie has
also published a strong argument on the tariff question: made a study of
climatology, particularly with reference to Santa Monica, and written many
valuable lectures and monographs upon various topics. In all of his writing his
use of English is direct and forcible and his course of reasoning clear and
logical.

    He has served as president of the Southern California Academy of Science and
of the Southern California Forest and Water Association; and as vice-president
of the American Forestry Association of California. In 1897 he was appointed by
Governor Budd as one of the Yosemite Park Commission, which made sweeping
reforms in the conditions which had nearly destroyed the pleasure of a visit to
this wonder of the world. In all of his public work, Mr. Kinney has shown a
broad public spirit and devotion to the general good.

    After a few years residence at "Kinneloa," Mr. Kinney found that the seaside
air was better suited to his health than the foothills, and, in the early
eighties, he purchased a home on Ocean avenue, Santa Monica. Since that time he
has been closely associated with the development of the Santa Monica bay cities.
In 1886 he formed a syndicate to purchase a large parcel of land on the north
side of Santa Monica Canyon. • Here, he proposed to make an ideal residence
tract, with unsurpassed views of ocean, mountains and valley. Trees were
planted, streets were laid out and a railroad planned. Later this tract was
transferred to the Southern Pacific Company and furnished the site for the "long
wharf."

    In 1888, Mr. Kinney was one of the' organizers of the Santa Monica
Improvement Company which built the Casino on North Third street and laid out
the grounds and tennis courts about it. This was the forerunner of "Country
Clubs" and was for years the center of tennis interests in Southern California.
About this time he was appointed road commissioner in the district of Santa
Monica, and devoted much time and energy to the opening up and improvement of
the roads of the vicinity. The boulevard to the Soldiers' Home was laid out
under his supervision and during his administration he set out some nine miles
of trees along the public roads and started them to growing—a Herculean task in
this country of sheep, squirrels, and other hungry varmints—to say nothing of
the lack of water.

    Mr. Kinney was a member of the first library board of Santa Monica and was
also instrumental in establishing the public library at Pasadena and in
providing a free library at the Soldiers' Home.

    About 1891 Mr. Kinney acquired an interest in a strip of ocean frontage,
extending from the south boundary of the Lucas tract to the southern boundary of
Ballona grant. This strip of sand was then considered worthless^for any purpose
whatever. But Mr. Kinney has imagination and foresight. In the face of many
discouragements, he and his partner, F. G. Ryan, began putting up cottages and
leasing lots in what was then known as South Santa Monica, because such lots on
the sand could not be sold until their advantages were demonstrated. Through
their effort the Y. M. C. A. was induced to locate its summer home on this beach
and the "Ocean Park" Association was formed. Messrs. Kinney and Ryan planted out
trees, planned parks and pavilions, wharfs and sidewalks, and, slowly, they
developed what became, for a time at least, the most popular resort on the
beach—the old Ocean Park district.

    But there was still a stretch of sand to the south of the settled area which
was apparently hopeless, as it was little more than a salt marsh. Drainage
suggested canals to Mr. Kinney, and he had a vision of a city that should equal
in beauty and picturesqueness the Venice of his youthful enthusiasm. With the
unfettered confidence of the progressive American in the power of mind and money
over material obstacles, he began the creation of an ideal city upon his salt
marsh. The courage and the persistence with which he has met the many unforeseen
obstacles, the misunderstanding, and the opposition of a small but bitter
faction, makes the history of Venice of America the crowning achievement of Mr.
Kinney's long and active career in California. While the plans and the hopes of
her projector have not all been fulfilled, Venice is already the-most beautiful
and the most unique pleasure resort on the Pacific coast.

VENICE OF AMERICA.

    In January, 1904, the Ocean Park Improvement Company was dissolved and Mr.
Kinney took over the unimproved and apparently worthless tract of land lying to
the south of the Club House Tract and the Short Line Beach. When he began to
talk of his plans for a city which should have canals for streets and which
should recall the most picturesque and romantic city of Europe in its features,
the public was distinctly skeptical. "Kinney's dream" was a phrase heard on all
sides, while the plans were taking form and the scheme was still in the paper
stage. Still, as the plans were outlined, rumors of the new rival to "Alantic
City" excited interest, although the doubters were in the ascendency. The first
decided move was made when the Board of Supervisors were petitioned for the
vacation and abandonment of that portion of the Ballona-Santa Monica road
passing through the proposed city of Venice. On May loth, 1904, Mr. Kinney
presented to the board of city trustees of Ocean Park a plat of Venice View
tract, lying to the east and north of the Club House and containing 67 lots.

    Soon afterward Mr. F. V. Dunham was sent east to visit resorts, study plans
and obtain ideas which might be of value in making the new city beautiful and
attractive. June 21st the first contract was let, that for the excavation of the
grand canal which was to be 70 feet wide, 4 feet deep and half a mile long.
Other canals were to extend from this canal and form a net work. These canals
were to be lined with concrete. The first spadeful of earth on the canal system
was turned August 15th and thereafter an army of men and teams were employed in
removing the tons of sand and earth necessary to make these waterways. The
system was completed by the extension of a canal through from the Venice tract
to the lagoon at Playa del Rey, the work being done by the property owners.

    June 27th the contract for the ship-hotel was let. This idea of a ship-hotel
was regarded as chimerical, at first, by the public. But as the piers were set
and the outlines became evident, interest was aroused and real estate men began
to drop in to see what was going on. In July the contract for the electric
lighting and power plant was let and soon afterward work began in preparation
for building the pier. This was planned to be 1700 feet in length and thirty
feet wide. The first timber was set September 5th and thereafter work was pushed
as rapidly as men and material could be procured.

    December 5th ground was broken for the first building on Windward avenue
—St. Mark's Hotel. Already contracts for $300,000 worth of building had been
let. By this time the newspapers and the public were fully alive to the fact
that something was doing in Venice of America, and the interest increased as the
greatness of the plans and the lavish expenditure of the projector became
evident. It was reported that the sales in fourteen days during November,
amounted to $386,000 and lots were now rapidly changing hands.

    With 1905 developments moved even more rapidly. Plans for an Auditorium on
the pier, which was to be the finest building of the kind on the coast, began to
take shape. It was announced that a Summer Assembly would be held here which
should represent the best of modern thought and art. Speakers and artists and
teachers, the best afforded by our country, were to be heard and the summer was
to be one long intellectual feast. Work on pier and buildings was rushed at even
greater speed, for there was none too much time to complete the preparations.
And then, during February and March, came the heaviest seas known on the Pacific
coast for a generation. The Venice pier was wrecked, the pavilion and other
buildings were badly damaged. At a low estimate the losses reached $50,000 and
the public declared that the buildings over the water, as planned, would never
be safe.

    But Mr. Kinney was not daunted. He immediately secured permission from the
government to erect a breakwater at his own expense to protect his property.
This—the only private breakwater in the United States—was constructed as soon as
it was possible to do the work. It was made of rock, 500 feet in length,
circular in form and extending 60 feet from the shore at a cost of about
$100,000. It forms a safe refuge for small craft and for swimming. The
rebuilding of the pier and the wrecked buildings was carried on at top speed.
The present Auditorium, a beautiful building, perfect in its adaptation for
public uses, with all the fittings of a modern theatre and a seating capacity of
3600, was ready for use on the date announced for the opening of the Assembly,
July 2nd. It had been constructed in 28 days. No better example of the conquest
of apparently un-surmountable difficulties has been shown in our business world.

    On June 3Oth, the water was turned into the canals and as the waterways and
lagoon were filled, for the first time, the magnificence of the design dawned
upon the onlookers. On the evening of July 2nd the electric lights for
illumination were turned on, 17,000 lamps being used. The effect was magical.
During the day the great pipe organ in the Auditorium was dedicated by Clarence
Eddy. On July 3rd, the day was given over to the workmen who had aided in
creating Venice and July Fourth witnessed the greatest celebration of the day
ever known in this part of the state. It was estimated that 40,000 people
visited Venice during the day. There was music and speeches in the Assembly
hall; music, swimming contests and fire works on the lagoon.

    The Venice Assembly under the direction of B. Fay Mills, held regular
sessions during July and August. It was attended by large numbers of people and
furnished a fine program of speakers, such as Joaquin Miller, Dr. Josiah Strong,
N. O. Nelson and many others, beside furnishing instruction in many branches. To
accommodate the people who attended it, the tent city was built along the canals
and proved one of the most popular features of Venice life. It was Mr. Kinney's
hope to make this a center of education and culture and in pursuance of that
purpose, for the winter season of 1905-6 Ellery's Band was engaged to furnish
daily music; a large part of the foreign exhibits at the Portland fair were
brought to Venice, and every effort was made to furnish high class
entertainments. Sports of every kind were also provided for yacht races, tennis
tournaments, swimming; bath horses and boat houses were built. To further
attract the public arrangements were made to open the Midway Plaisance and in
November the contract was let for eleven buildings to accommodate this feature.
It was opened to the public in January, 1906 and attracted a good deal of
attention; but was not a finanical success. In May, 1906 Sarah Bernhardt, who
would not submit to the demands of the American Theater Trust, played for three
days in the Venice Auditorium and declared herself delighted, with all the
fervor of her ardent nature, with this playhouse over the waves.

    Venice was provided with the best of fire protection, a system of salt water
under high pressure which is always on. It is only necessary to open the
fire-hydrants in order to obtain an unlimited amount of water which can be put
anywhere desired. The town is also well supplied with fresh water for domestic
use. During 1906 the bath house on the lagoon and the dance Pavilion on the pier
were built; both of them beautiful buildings, complete in every detail. Twelve
concrete bridges were built across the canals and lagoons and many street
improvements were made. The streets and alley ways of Venice were dedicated to
the city by its owner; but this city within a city has its own fire protection
and water system, its own sewer system and—to a large extent—its own police
protection and street cleaning service. Much thought has been given to the
beautifying of the streets and gardens of Venice. Suitable trees and plants have
been placed along the borders of the canals and ornamental parks are a part of
the scheme in its full treatment. A harbor for commerce and for a military base
is also a part of the plan.

    A special feature of Venice attractions is the social life of the community.
The Country Club has always been a favorite resort for those who cared for
sports. The tennis courts have been the scene of some brilliant social affairs.
The afternoon teas of the ladies of the club are pleasant affairs.

    The Five Hundred Club is an organization of ladies which meets Monday
afternoons at the Cabrillo for a social card game. The Sunshine Club, of which
Mrs. J. M. White is president, meets once in two weeks to work for charitable
purposes. The members of this unique little club are doing a good work and hold
most enjoyable meetings.

    The society dances on Tuesday evenings at the pavilion have become a popular
feature of Venice society and are attended by many outsiders. The children's
dances, the swimming parties at the bath houses, the boating, are all features
that add to the enjoyment of life.

    In January, 1907 the Venice Chamber of Commerce was organized with Dr. John
Stanwood as president; J. G. French first vice-president; David Evans, second
vice-president; Lewis Bradt, secretary and R. A. Dullugge, treasurer. The
directors were Abbot Kinney, J. D. Simpson, Dr. J. B. Sands, H. C. Mayes, F. E.
Reid, R. A. Phillips, Henry Wildey. This organization has since its formation
taken an active part in everything pertaining to the welfare of Venice. It has
been especially concerned in furthering Mr. Kinney's plans for a deep-sea
harbor. The Venice harbor will be the nearest to Los Angeles, the least costly
to build, the easiest to enter and to leave, and the safest from storm of any on
the Pacific Coast. The plans have been approved by the government and it is
expected that they will be carried out in the near future. The Chamber of
Commerce took a leading part in the effort for disincorporation; in securing the
location of a shoe factory, giving employment to thirty or more men, at Venice;
in the proposed boulevard from Los Angeles by way of Palms, in securing the
Polytechnic High School, and in many other ways it has worked for the
advancement of the community. At its second annual meeting, the officers chosen
were, Dr. J. A. Stanwood, president; J. G. French, first vice-president; H. P.
Eakins, second vice-president; W. A. Rennie, secretary; R. A. Dullugge,
treasurer. The executive committee consists of Abbot Kinney, H. Wickizer, H. C.
Mayes, Dr. J. M. White. T. R. Taylor, C. A. Stavenow.

PLAYA DEL REY.

    The ocean frontage of La Ballona Rancho was known in early days as Ballona
Slough. It consisted of marshy fields, broken by sand dunes, ponds and lagoons
of salt water, which were considered to be utterly worthless except as a home
for ducks and other game birds. About 1870, Will Tell, a German of convivial
propensities built a shack, almost, on the spot now occupied by the Del Rey
hotel, which he called "Tell's Lookout."For several years he kept up this
establishment, advertising himself as agent for "Don Keller's native wines and
brandies," and furnishing boats, guns and fishing tackle for his patrons. His
place was a favorite resort for Los Angeles sportsmen and many a party of
distinguished guests partook of his native products and hunted duck in his
boats. The locality was generally known as "Will Tell's" in those days.

    In 1877 Michael Duffy, another royal host who will be remembered by many-old
timers, opened "Hunter's Cottage" in Tell's old location and was "prepared to
furnish sportsmen with board and lodging for man and beast; guns, ammunitions,
boats and everything complete for hunter's outfit. Good fishing and bathing in
the vicinity. Come and enjoy a few days sport and I will use every means to make
it pleasant for you."

    The flats of Ballona were looked upon as of value only to sportsmen until
about 1885. The approach of the Atchinson, Topeka and Santa Fe railway, and the
first rumblings of the approaching boom, brought many hitherto undreamed of
projects to the surface. One of these was the scheme of creating a harbor out of
the lagoons of La Ballona slough. In the spring of 1886 the Ballona Harbor and
improvement Company was organized by capitalists of Los Angeles, M. L. Wicks
being the leading spirit in the enterprise at that time. Among the directors
were James Campbell, F. Sabichi, H. W. Mills, E. H. Boyd, and Dr. Lotspeich.

    The capital stock of the company was $300,000, Hugh Crabbe, an engineer of
national reputation, was engaged to plan the work. It was proposed to excavate a
channel 200 feet long by 300 wide which would let the tide into the lagoon at
the point where Ballona creek entered the ocean. This, with dredging, would
create an inner harbor two miles long and from 300 to 600 feet wide, with a
depth of from six to twenty feet. It was declared that this harbor would float
the fleets of the world. This harbor was to be the terminus of the Santa Fe, or
Atlantic and Pacific, as it was then known, and was declared to be the nearest
point to the Gulf of Mexico possible for an ocean port and 800 miles nearer to
the Hawaian Islands than San Francisco. A franchise was granted to the Los
Angeles and Santa Monica Railway, an offshoot of the Santa Fe, although
organized by the members of the Ballona Harbor Company, to construct a wharf and
ship canal at Ballona and work was begun during the year. The Los Angeles
Express comments on the work being done in December, 1886, and says, "The hills
around the harbor afford splendid sites for residences and will doubtless be
rapidly covered with houses,"—a prediction which proved to be rather previous.

    Monday, August 2ist, 1887, the railroad line was completed and the first
train brought an excursion party of about 300 people to inspect the harbor
improvements and make speeches on the "great future" of this Port Ballona. A
large amount of dredging was done and a large amount of money—nearly $300,000
was spent during the three years in which work was carried on more or less
spasmodically upon the proposed harbor. The directorate of the company changed,
M. L. Wicks dropping out and Louis Mesmer, Juan Bernard and others coming in. By
July 4th, 1888, work had come to a standstill and only a watchman to guard the
dredger and other property of the company was left on the ground. The Outlook in
December, 1889, states that "The father of the Ballona Harbor scheme has been
working on his pet project again. He is having the place cleaned up and getting
ready to begin dredging again." But soon afterward a storm carried away the
greater portion of the wharf and deposited it along the shore at Santa
Monica—where it was welcomed as firewood.

    The dredger and barges were then taken away and Port Ballona became a thing
of the past. Many causes operated to make the scheme impracticable,—the blue
clay formation underneath the sand, the currents which brought sand back faster
than it could be dredged out, and the failure of the Santa Fe system to
co-operate with the projectors.

    A last echo of the Ballona Harbor Company was heard in 1892, when they
entered a vigorous protest against the abandonment of the railroad right of way
to Ballona and the removal of the rails from that branch by the Southern
California Railway Company. But the protest availed nothing—the road to Ballona
was taken up and a new line to Santa Monica took its place.

    For fifteen years after the abandoment of work upon the Port of Ballona, the
lagoons and sand dunes remained a sportsman's paradise. The Recreation Gun Club
purchased a large tract of the ocean frontage and the lagoons were only
disturbed by the clipping of paddles and the echo of shot guns. Then came a new
era of life for Ballona Slough.

    In June, 1902, it was announced that a company of capitalists had
incorporated as the "Beach Land Company" and had purchased a thousand acres of
land, including two and one-half miles of beach frontage from the Mesmer estate.
This included the old Ballona Harbor. Among the incorporators were F. H. Rindge,
M. H. Sherman. E. P. Clark, E. T. Earle, R. C. Gillis and a number of other
prominent Southern California men. Henry P. Barbour was president of the
company; M. H. Sherman and Arthur H. Fleming, vice-presidents; A. I. Smith,
secretary; P. M. Green treasurer.

    The plans of this company, were most elaborate. The new resort was to be
named "Playa del Rey", The King's Beach, or the King's Playground, as it was
later translated. The Los Angeles-Pacific Company would at once build to the
harbor, which was to be improved. A $200,000 hotel was proposed. Plans were made
and plats completed under the direction of a landscape gardener.

    The company advertised their intentions liberally and the first sale of
lots. July 16th, was a large one, many well known citizens being among the
purchasers. Work was at once begun on grading and improvements. October 19th the
electric road had cars running to Playa del Rey and a large number of
excursionists visited the "King's Beach." Work continued steadily on the
improvements during the next year. The lagoon, two miles long, of still water
for bathing and boating proved itself a popular feature—even before its
completion. Forty boats and gasoline launches were provided for the
accommodation of patrons.

    During the year the Redondo line was completed thus opening up a new
district, and providing railway facilities for residents of the beach south of
the harbor. In December, 1903, it was announced that an automobile speedway from
Los Angeles to Playa del Rey would be constructed under the auspices of the
Southern California Automobile club. This boulevard would be eighteen miles in
length, thirty feet wide and would be made the finest automobile road in the
country.

    With the opening of 1904 the rush of improvements at Playa del Rey
increased. Plans were made for the pavilion, which was to be three stories in
heighth, with restaurant and dining room, bowling alleys and dancing floor and
ample provisions for picnic and banquets. Work on this structure was rushed and
it was opened to the public with a grand celebration of the occasion, boat
races, dancing, etc., on November 25th. The hotel Del Rey, a handsome structure
containing fifty rooms was built this year by George A. Cook, a capitalist of
Redlands who had become largely interested in Playa del Rey. Boat houses and
bandstand were completed. A two story bank building had been erected and many
handsome cottages had been completed along the lagoon and on the bluff. In June
1904 a post office was established at Playa del Rey, with Frank Lawton, lessee
of the pavilion as postmaster. The electric line to Santa Monica was completed,
thus giving a much improved car service, as the fare to Santa Monica was made
five cents.

    It is estimated that the Beach Land Company and the Los Angeles-Pacific
Company spent at least $200,000 on the foundation work for this resort. Six
hundred acres of sand beach, rolling dunes and lofty bluffs were graded and
prepared for building permanent residences. In leveling lands and excavating for
the lagoon, more than 700,000 cubic yards of sand were used for filling in
purposes. Sidewalks were constructed along the beach and the lagoon; a sewer
system; water system and electric lights provided. An unusually high class of
buildings was put up and the expectation of the projectors were largely
realized, yet much still remained to make the resort all that was hoped for.
During 1905, two suspension bridges were thrown across the lagoon and an incline
railway constructed to the top of Mount Ballona, as the bluff is known. In
April, through the efforts largely of Joseph Mesmer, Playa del Rey school
district was organized, with 26 children.


Additional Comments:
Extracted from:

Ingersoll's century history, Santa Monica Bay cities: prefaced with a brief
history of the state of California, a condensed history of Los Angeles County,
1542 to 1908: supplemented with an encyclopedia of local biography and
embellished with views of historic landmarks and portraits of representative
people.

Los Angeles: Luther A. Ingersoll (1908)


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