Marin County CA Archives History - Books .....History Of Nicasio Township 1880
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Book Title: History Of Marin County

NICASIO TOWNSHIP.

NICASIO.

  GEOGRAPHY.—Nicasio township is bounded on the north by San Antonio township,
on the west by Tomales township, on the south by Tomales bay, Bolinas and San
Rafael townships, and on the east by San Rafael and Novato townships. There are
no streams of importance in this section. That part of Tomales bay which skirts
along the south-western portion of Nicasio is not navigable now for any kind of
craft, although years ago the water was deep enough for sloops and fishing
smacks. Nicasio creek is a small stream flowing through the central portion,
while San Geronimo, or Paper-mill creek, flows along the southern border.

  TOPOGRAPHY.—The general face of this section is hilly rather than mountainous,
although there are some quite high ridges and peaks in the western portion. The
country is generally quite open and free from timber or chaparral. In Nicasio
valley the hills become mere undulations, having much the same general
appearance as the southern portion of Sonoma county, especially that section
known as Big Valley. It may be said that there is no level land in the township
from the fact that the valleys are all broken up into these undulations.

  SOIL.—The soil of Nicasio is fully up to the standard of any other township in
the county. It is a rich, sandy loam in all the valleys, while on the hillsides
there is some red clay. On some of the rolling ground in the northern part of
the township the soil is of a lighter nature, still not enough so as to cause
any very great difference in the yield, either of grass or grain. The soil
generally is well adapted to growing all kinds of grains, vegetables and fruits,
also grass.

  CLIMATE.—The climate is mild and pleasant in the eastern portion of the
township, while in the western it is subjected to heavy winds and fogs. In
Nicasio valley proper the climate is not excelled anywhere in the county. It is
well protected from the blasts of the ocean winds by the range of hills known as
the Black Mountains, on the tops of which the fogs seem to cling with wonderful
tenacity, and seldom swoop down into the valley.

  PRODUCTS.—The products of this section are in keeping with other townships of
the county. Butter is here, as elsewhere, the product, although the business of
dairying is not conducted on quite so large a scale, by individuals, as in some
other sections. Some grain is grown, but little of it finds its way to the
market Some cord-wood and railroad ties are cut and marketed. Fruit trees thrive
excellently, .but little attention is paid to their cultivation. Potatoes grow
luxuriantly, and tons of massive tubers are produced to the acre; but all these
things give way before the all-absorbing industry of butter making.

  TIMBER.—When the country was settled up by Americans there were large forests
of redwood in Nicasio, but since then saw-mills have been busily engaged for
many years, and the prime trees have long since fallen victims to the
remorseless ax of the woodsman. There are still large numbers of second and
third grade trees remaining in the forests, and it is quite probable that there
will come a time when they will be very valuable. Of the other timbers, the oak
may be mentioned as the principal one. None of this, however, is available for
other purposes than firewood. There is some laurel and some alder, but the
latter does not form any considerable portion of the timber of this section.

  EARLY SETTLEMENT.—Nicasio township is composed chiefly of lands granted to
Pablo de la Guerra and Juan B. R. Cooper, and known as the Nicasio Rancho. This
grant contained sixteen square leagues, and was made August 1, 1844, by His
Excellency, Don Manuel Micheltorena, Brigadier-General of the Mexican Army and
Adjutant-General of the staff of the same, Governor, General-Commandant and
Inspector of the Department of the Californias. The full measurement of sixteen
leagues would call for seventy thousand eight hundred and fifty-four and four
hundred and thirty-two-thousandths acres, but it appears that only fifty-six
thousand six hundred and twenty-one and four-hundredths acres were confirmed to
the following named parties:—Henry W. Halleck (afterwards General) thirty
thousand eight hundred and forty-eight and eighty-five-hundredths acres; Daniel
Frink and William Reynolds, seven thousand five hundred and ninety-eight and
ten-hundredths acres; James Black, nine thousand four hundred and seventy-eight
and eighty-two-hundredths acres; and Benjamin R. Buckelew, eight thousand six
hundred and ninety-five and twenty-seven hundredths acres. Very soon after this
grant was made the services of Jasper O'Farrell were secured as surveyor, and
the boundary lines fully established. For this service O'Farrell received the
tract now known as the Black estate, which, by the way, was a handsome
compensation for his labor. This tract of land was exchanged by O'Farrell for
the Canada de la Jonive Rancho in Sonoma county, in 1847 or 1848. James Black
was the owner of the Jonive ranch, and as soon as the bargain had been
consummated he came to Nicasio, and began making improvements. He brought the
lumber for his house from the Bodega saw-mill, at that time operated by Captain
Stephen Smith. This building was doubtless the first one erected in the
township, except perhaps some small shanties. We will now give a short sketch of
this pioneer:—James Black was born in Inverness, Scotland, in 1807. Shortly
after his birth his father moved to Liverpool, taking with him his family. In
the course of time he attained to the position of Master of the Docks in that
city. Young Black early evinced a roving disposition, and at his request his
father secured him a place on board of one of the many foreign bound ships which
sailed from that port. He sailed to India, China and to almost all other
portions of the globe in various ships during the years which intervened from
the time of his shipment until 1831. Some time during that year he shipped on
board of an English vessel bound for the California coast and British Columbia
in quest of hides and furs. On January 2, 1832, the ship arrived at Monterey,
and Black, being very sick with typhoid fever, was put on shore to die. The
captain of the vessel, however, promised to call in for him on the return
voyage. Juan B. R. Cooper was at that time living in Monterey, and kindly cared
for the forsaken English sailor, and in the course of time he fully recovered
from his illness. Neither his restless spirit nor his purse would allow him to
spend the waiting time in idleness. He was given work by Captain Cooper, and
remained with him one year. During this time an acquaintance sprang up between
him and a brother Scotchman, named Edward Manuel McIntosh. This acquaintance
ripened soon into a friendship which bound them in ties as close as those of
brothers, and which burned fervently and brightly till the latest days of their
lives. At length Black became wearied of waiting for his vessel, and determined
to join McIntosh in a hunting and trapping excursion. The vessel never came into
port, and Black never heard of it again. After three or four years spent
together in hunting and trapping, the most of which time was passed in the
employ of the Hudson Bay Company, Black and McIntosh found themselves in Sonoma.
This was in 1835, and from a statement made by General M. G. Vallejo, we learn
that upon his (Vallejo's) assuming the position of commandant of the military of
California in the above named year, he was ordered to extend his settlements as
far as possible in the direction of "Fuerte de los Rusos" (now Fort Ross), then
the head-quarters of the Russian colony in Califonia, and to thus encroach upon
their territory and usurp their possessions. For t'lis purpose he chose three
hardy pioneers, viz:—James Black, Edward M. McIntosh and James Dawson, and
promised to give them each a large grant of land, provided they would settle in
the locality designated by him. This they readily consented to do, as they were
sure that they could live on amicable terms with their Russian neighbors. The
Russians at that time occupied that section of Sonoma county, now known as
Bodega, hence the nearest approach to their settlements must be made near that
place. Accordingly, Black settled upon what is now known as the Canada de la
Jonive rancho, and Dawson and McIntosh occupied the Estero Americano tract.
Dawson, however, afterwards separated from McIntosh, sawing their common house
in twain, and placed his half on the tract now known as the Canada de Pogolome
rancho, all of which grants bordered on the Russian colony, and were eventually
confirmed to their respective claimants. When the mines were in their glory
Black drove annually large herds of cattle into that section, where he found a
ready market for them, and their sale added much to his store of wealth. He
spent the remainder of his days in quietude in this county, being however always
an active business man and a true citizen. In 1850 he was one of the Associate
Justices of the Court of Sessions, and on April 24, 1852, he was appointed
Assessor, which office he filled till 1853. In both these positions he proved
himself both capable and faithful. In 1843 he was united in marriage with Maria
Augustine Saiz, daughter of Juan and Domingo Saiz. Two children resulted from
this union, one of whom is now living, and is the wife of Dr. G. Burdell. Mrs.
Black died February 23, 1864, and in 1865 he married Mrs. Pacheco, who still
survives him. He died June 12, 1870, at the age of sixty-four. And thus are the
leaves of the great book of life closed and another of California's oldest
pioneers has passed from time to eternity, and all that can be gathered of the
life he led, the scenes he saw, or experiences passed through in those olden
days, before it were possible to place them upon the living pages of history, is
but the stray threads of warp and woof, and the web can but be at best sadly
disconnected, and the links of life's chain widely severed, with only here and
there one which even approaches completeness. In 1853 Jacob and J. O. B. Short
leased an extensive tract of land in Nicasio from Timothy Murphy for grazing
purposes, and took a considerable band of cattle upon it. They built a large log
house in Bull's Tail valley, on what is now known as the Crayton place. This
house is still standing, though Father Time has left the imprint of years upon
it. This was the second house erected in the township. Two brothers named Hiram
and Noah Corey came into this valley in 1852, and each built a house. The one
erected by Noah Corey was the first house built on the present town site of
Nicasio, and was located where the hotel now stands. This house was twenty-two
by thirty feet and is still standing, and occupied by Mrs. McMannus. The frames
for these two buildings were sawed out with a small circular saw driven by horse
power. This was probably the first saw-mill of any character that was ever run
in the township, and was owned by the Corey brothers. These houses were weather
boarded and ceiled with shakes, and were very durable and comfortable. The house
built by Hiram was situated just north of the town site of Nicasio. These men
brought their families with them, and. with the exception of James Black's
family, were the first who came to the township. During the first or second year
of their residence here a little child belonging to the family of Noah Corey
sickened and died, and was buried under the wide spreading branches of a massive
oak tree which grew near the house. Years sped by apace, and the family moved
away, leaving the little grave behind them with nothing to mark it save a
redwood slab. After them many came and many went, and at last the slab was gone
and the little sleeper forgotten by those who knew her, and her resting place
unmarked and unknown to the strangers who came to settle in the valley. But
fresh in the memory of the parents remained the little mound, and no lapse of
time could destroy their love for, or cause them to forget, the hallowed spot.
At length, after the flowers of a quarter of a century had bloomed, the father
returned for the purpose of removing the body to a more appropriate resting
place, beside other members of the family, who, having wearied with life's
burden, had gone to rest on the bosom of mother earth. But when the father
returned he found that many, many changes had occurred. The old house was gone,
and the tree that sheltered the grave of his darling had likewise been swept out
of existence, and in their stead the goodly proportions of a fine hotel were
reared. Search for even a trace of the grave proved futile, and with a sad heart
the father turned away to await the great day which shall reveal the resting
place of all.

  William Dampier and William Butterfield were the next settlers in the valley.
They constructed a house similar to those mentioned above, in 1853. It was
situated south of the town of Nicasio, and is still standing on the farm owned
by B. F. Porter. These gentlemen were partners and were engaged in the stock and
dairy business. After this the valley filled up quite rapidly with settlers,
among whom may be mentioned Peter Irwin, John Nutter, Captain Henney, M.
McNamara, C. Murray and Richard Magee. The latter came to Nicasio in 1857 and
located in the redwoods east of the town. He had bought the down timber in this
forest from John Lucas. He built a log house. The present locale of those old
settlers mentioned above who are still living is as follows:—Short Brothers in
San Rafael; Corey Brothers in Sonoma county, near Santa Rosa; William Dampier,
present Treasurer of Marin county; William Butterfield in Monterey county;
Richard Magee, M. McNamara and C. Murray still reside at Nicasio; and Captain
Henney is in Sacramento, and the remainder have gone to their long home.

  The first blacksmith to work in the town of Nicasio was a man by the name of
Thomas Ward. His forge and anvil were placed under the branches of an oak tree,
and here he forged and welded with as good a grace as though he were housed in a
mansion. He continued to work under this tree till the rains began, when an open
shed was constructed. Later in the year he sold out to W. C. Fredenbur, who
added the business of a wheelwright to his blacksmithing.

  The first store in Nicasio was conducted by Edward Jackson. He occupied the
old Noah Corey House, which is mentioned above as being the first house erected
in the town.

  The business interests of the town of Nicasio are represented by one store,
one blacksmith shop, one meat market, one livery stable, one hotel, and one
boarding house. H. F. Taft is postmaster and Wells, Fargo & Co.'s agent. The
post-office was established April 13, 1870, with Mr. Taft as postmaster.

  CATHOLIC CHURCH.—The church at this place of the Catholic persuasion was for a
number of years included in the Petaluma parish, and the resident priest of that
place served the people here for some time before a church building was erected.
In the Spring of 1867 a subscription was circulated and enough secured to
proceed with the building. The body of the church is twenty-four by fifty, with
a chancel at the rear which is twenty by twenty-four. It is neat and substantial
in its construction, having hard finished walls. The work around the altar is of
curled redwood nicely varnished, giving to it a very handsome appearance. It is
stated that the cost of the building .was three thousand dollars. Father
Harrington was pastor at the time of the erection of the building. He was
followed by Father Burmingham. The church is now connected with the parish of
Sonoma.

  SCHOOLS.—There are two school districts in the township, viz: Nicasio and San
Geronimo. The first school-house erected in the former was built in 1866, and
was quite a small building. The demand for a larger building soon became
pressing, and in 1871 a second and much larger structure was erected, being
thirty-five by forty-five. This is probably the most substantial and handsome
district school building in Marin county. It cost three thousand dollars when
completed.

  HOTEL.—A large and well furnished hotel was erected at this place in June,
1867, by Wm. J. Miller. The main building is thirty by sixty-six, three stories
high, with a wing twenty-six by forty. It contains twenty-two rooms, beside bar,
dining room, kitchen and parlor. It was completed and furnished at an expense of
eleven thousand dollars.

  SAW-MILLS.—The pioneer mill of this township was built by James Dixon and
James Ross in 1862. It was located about one and a half miles easterly from the
present site of the town of Nicasio. The capacity of the mill was about fifteen
thousand feet of lumber per day. It was run till 1865, when Dixon bought the
interest of Ross, and moved the mill to Fort Ross, Sonoma county. The next mill
was built by Isaac Shaver and Jonathan Mitchner in 1866, and was located about
one and a half miles southeast of Nicasio. It had a capacity of twenty thousand
feet per day, and was run till 1872, when part of the machinery was taken to San
Rafael and put into a planing mill. In 1874 Isaac Shaver located a portable
saw-mill on the White ranch, about a mile south of San Geronimo Station. It was
run six months. In 1875 Isaac Shaver and Edmund and Samuel Kiler built a mill on
the road between White's Hill and San Geronimo. Its capacity was twelve thousand
feet daily, and was run for six months. In 1876 the same company built a mill
about two miles west of San Geronimo, with a capacity of twenty thousand feet
per day. They ran it about six months. The machinery is still there and in
running order. In 1877 Robert Scott, Charles Sims, and ____ Parks had a shingle
mill at the foot of Nicasio Hill, on the road from Nicasio to San Geronimo. It
had a capacity of fifteen thousand shingles daily, and was run about one year.

  SAN GERONIMO.—This is the name of the station on the North Pacific Coast
Railroad, from which stages connect with Nicasio. It is a small village
containing some half score houses, of which most are dwellings. The only
business conducted at the place is a blacksmith shop.

  GOLD MINES.—The San Geronimo gold mine is located about one half mile west of
the station, and operations were begun in it in October, 1878. Since that time a
shaft two hundred feet deep has been sunk, and a drift has been run to the
northward a distance of two hundred and sixty feet, and a side drift from that a
distance of sixty feet, also a drift to the westward has been run two hundred
and seventy feet. It is proposed to run this drift some distance farther, when a
shaft will be sunk connecting with it. The force engaged at present consists of
fourteen men, who work in three shifts of eight hours each, with the exception
of two engineers, who work twelve hours each. Assays of ore average from thirty
to forty dollars per ton, although it has yielded as much as ninety dollars
gold. The ore contains gold, silver, iron, manganese, antimony and tracings of
nickel. The outcroppings of the lode extend for a long distance through that
section of the country, and should gold in paying quantities be found it will
prove a very extensive mine, and would add very much to the material interests
of Marin county.

  INDIANS.—The Nicasio Indians were at one time a very powerful tribe, numbering
many thousands, and filling the whole valley, but they have vanished before the
silent forces of civilization like the dew from off the grass beneath the ardent
rays of a mid-summer sun. Dire contagion stalked through the land and claimed
many tithings for the charnel house of death, and later the accursed "fire
water" of the white man overcame and destroyed their sons, and the souls and
bodies of their daughters were sold in prostitution and they ceased to bear
children. And thus have their ranks been decimated until scarcely a score can be
mustered, and the once populous village contains only eight wigwams now. What
few remain of the tribe now live upon a tract of about thirty acres, situated
about two miles east of the town of Nicasio in a lovely valley, which was
purchased by Jose Calistro, their last chief, of Wm. J. Miller, several years
ago, for a home for the remnant of his people. The county appropriates forty
dollars per month for their support, which, together with the pittance of wages
which they earn and the game they kill, affords them a meager sustenance. There
are five who are very aged indeed, in fact so old that nothing can be obtained
which will establish the date of their birth, and they are almost helpless. They
are patiently waiting for death to come and take them to their people who have
gone before them long ago to the happy hunting grounds in the home of "Gitchie
Manito," the mighty.


Additional Comments:
Extracted from:

HISTORY OF MARIN COUNTY, CALIFORNIA;
INCLUDING ITS
Geography, Geology, Topography and Climatography;
TOGETHER WITH
A Full and Particular Record of the Mexican Grants; Its Early History and
Settlement, Compiled from the most Authentic Sources; Names of Original Spanish
and American Pioneers;

A Full Record of its Organization; A Complete Political History, including a
Tabular Statement of Office-holders since the Formation of the County;

Separate Histories of Bolinas, Nicasio, Novato, Point Reyes, San Antonio, San
Rafael, Saucelito, and Tomales Townships;

Incidents of Pioneer Life, and Biographical Sketches of its Early and Prominent
Settlers and Representative Men;
ALSO
An Historical Sketch of the State of California,
In which is embodied the Raising of the Bear Flag

ILLUSTRATED.
SAN FRANCISCO, CAL. 
ALLEY, BOWEN & CO., PUBLISHERS.
1880.


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