San Luis Obispo County CA Archives History - Books .....Chapter III Founding Of The Missions 1883 ************************************************ Copyright. All rights reserved. http://www.usgwarchives.net/copyright.htm http://www.usgwarchives.net/ca/cafiles.htm ************************************************ File contributed for use in USGenWeb Archives by: Joy Fisher sdgenweb@yahoo.com August 4, 2006, 4:09 am Book Title: History Of San Luis Obispo County, California CHAPTER III. FOUNDING OF THE MISSIONS. Palou's Life of Junipero Serra—The Visitador-General—Expeditions to California—Equipment of the San Carlos—Interesting Documents—The Expedition by Land—Governor Portal&'s Command—Father Junipero and the Muleteer—Arrival at San Diego —Founding a Mission—Gathering the Indians—The Expedition to Monterey—Father Juan Crespi's Diary—The Expedition in this Region—The Earliest Footprints—Difficult Traveling—At the Bay of Monterey—Discovery of the Bay of San Francisco—The Missions in 1786—Second Expedition to Monterey—Threatened Abandonment of California. ONE of the most valuable of the old Spanish books preserved for the modern historian's study is that of Father Francisco Palou, published in Mexico in 1787. The interest and care taken by the pious father is shown in the manner in which he preserved the records of the founding of the missions of California, and his devotion to the President of the missions, Father Junipero Serra, whose life the book purports to relate. Father Palou gives prominence to Junipero Serra, and the common belief appears to be that to him, his enterprise, perseverance and ability is due the settlement of Alta California, and the founding of the missions, but, not wishing to be iconoclastic, we must say the chief credit should be elsewhere bestowed. THE VISITADOR-GENERAL. The King and the ministry of Spain had sent Jose de Galvez, who bore the title of "Visitador-General," to the pacific Coast of Mexico with orders to send expeditions to rediscover and occupy the ports of San Diego and Monterey in Alta California. Galvez was a man of great ability and energy, and his power, as direct from the King, was supreme. He appears to have conceived the idea of occupying California by means of missions. To carry out the plan, he selected Father Junipero Serra as chief missionary, who entered into the project with great enthusiasm and earnestness. EXPEDITIONS TO CALIFORNIA. Galvez had determined to found three missions, one at San Diego, one at Monterey, to be called San Carlos, and one midway between these to be called San Buenaventura. Two expeditions were dispatched from La Paz, in Lower California, one by sea and one by land, to San Diego. The Visitador-General labored hard to equip and dispatch these expeditions. Two vessels joined the seagoing fleet, the San Carlos and the San Antonio; upon these Galvez had placed all kinds of household and farming utensils, with material for repairs, every species of seeds, not forgetting garden herbs, flowers, and flax, the land being, he said, in his opinion, fertile for everything, as it was in the same latitude with Spain. For the same purpose, he determined that from the furthest north of the missions of Lower California, the expeditions by land should take two hundred head of cows and bulls in order to stock the new country with large cattle, to cultivate the land and provide something to eat. Father Junipero blessed the vessels and the flags, and Galvez made an impressive address, and the expedition sailed from the port of La Paz on the 9th day of January, 1769. The whole enterprise was commended to the patronage of the Most Holy Patriarch St. Joseph. On the San Carlos sailed Don Vicente Villa, commander to the maratime expedition; Don Pedro Fages, a Lieutenant commanding a company of twenty-five soldiers of the Catalonian volunteers; the engineer, Don Miguel Constanzo; likewise Dr. Pedro Prat, a surgeon of the royal navy, and all the necessary crew and officers. With them, for their consolation, went the Father Friar Fernando Parron. The San Antonio sailed from Cape San Lucas on the 15th of February, 1769. The Captain was Don Juan Perez. With him sailed two priests, Fathers Juan Vizcayno and Francisco Gomez. Much of this is taken from the lecture of Hon. Edmund Randolph to the California Pioneers in i860. EQUIPMENT OF THE SAN CARLOS. The archives of this State contain a paper of these times which cannot but be read with interest. It is the copy of the receipt of the Commander Vicente Villa, containing a list of all the persons on board of the San Carlos ; and an inventory of eight months' provisions. It reads thus:— OFFICERS AND CREW, SOLDIERS, ETC., OF THE SAN CARLOS. The two army officers, the father missionary, the captain, pilot, and surgeon 6 persons The company of soldiers, being one sergeant, one corporal, and twenty-three men 25 " The officers of the ship and crew, including two pages (cabin boys, doubtless) 25 " The baker and two blacksmiths 3 " The cook and two tortilla makers 3 " ____________ Total 62 persons Dried meat, 187 arrobas (an arroba being 25 lbs.), 6 libras; fish, 77 arrobas, 8 libras; crackers (common), 267 arrobas, 3 libras; crackers (white), 47 arrobas, 7 libras; Indian corn, 760 fanegas; rice, 37 arrobas, 20 libras; peas, 37 arrobas, 20 libras; lard, 20 arrobas; vinegar, 7 tinajas (jars); i-alt, 8fanegas; panocha(domestic sugar), 43 arrobas, 8 libras; cheese, 78 arrobas; brandy, 5 tinajas; wine, 6 tinajas; figs, 6 tinajas; raisins, 3 tinajas; dates, 2 tinajas; sugar, 5 arrobas; chocolate, 77 arrobas; hams, 70 arrobas; oil (table), 6 tinajas; oil (fish), 5 tinajas; red pepper, 12 libras; black pepper, 7 libras; cinnamon, 7 libras; garlic, 5 libras; 25 smoked beef tongues; 6 live cattle; 70 tierces of flour, each of 25 arrobas, 20 libras; 15 sacks of bran; lentiles, 23 arrobas; beans, 19 arrobas, 20 libras; $1,000 in reals (coin) for any unexpected emergency. Besides 32 arrobas of panocha (domestic sugars), 20 for the two missions of San Diego and Monterey, one-half to each, and the remaining 12 arrobas for the gratification of the Indians and to barter with them; 16 sacks of charcoal; 1 box of tallow candles of 4 1/2 arrobas; 1 pair of 16-pound scales; 2 pounds of lamp wick. INTERESTING DOCUMENTS. The original of this simple and homely document, but which enables us to realize so clearly these obscure transactions, yet so full of interest for us, was given, unquestionably, to Galvez, and this copy we may presume brought to California on this first voyage of the San Carlos to serve as her manifest. It is dated the 5th of January, 1769. Of the same date we have the instructions of Galvez to Villa and Fages, addressed to each of them separately—that is, the original is given to Villa under the signature of Galvez, and a copy to Fages. They are long and minute. The first article declares that the first object of the expedition is to establish the "Catholic religion among a numerous heathen people, submerged in the obscure darkness of paganism, to extend the dominion of the King our lord, and to protect this peninsula from the ambitious views of foreign nations." He also recites that this project had been entertained since 1606, when it was ordered to be executed by Philip III., referring to orders which were issued by that monarch in consequence of the report made by Vizcayno, but which were never carried into effect. He enjoins that no labor or fatigue be spared now for the accomplishment of such just and holy ends. San Diego, he says, will be found in latitude 33, as set forth in the royal cedula of 1606 (163 years before), and that it cannot fail to be recognized from the landmarks mentioned by Vizcayno. At the conclusion, in his own handwriting, we have the following:— NOTE. — That to the fort or presidio that may be constructed, and to the pueblo (village) of the mission which may be established at Monterey, there shall be given the glorious name of San Carlos de Monterey. JOSE DE GALVEZ. (With his rubric.) When the San Antonio sailed she seems to have carried a letter from Galvez to Pedro Fages, who had gone in advance on the San Carlos, for we have it now in the archives. It is dated Cape San Lucas, February 14, 1769. The body of the letter is in substance: That the San Antonio arrived at the bay (San Lucas) on the 25th of last month (January), that she was discharged and cleared of barnacles; that he examined the vessel with his own eyes, and found the keel thereof as sound as when it was placed in the vessel; that the necessary repairs had been made and her cargo again placed on board, and that tomorrow, if the weather permit, she will sail, and that he trusts in Providence she will come safely into Monterey and find him (Fages) already in possession of the country. So far it is in the handwriting of a clerk. He then adds a postscript with his own hand, addressed as well to Father Parron and the engineer, Constanzo, as to Fages. "I read it," says Mr. Randolph, "for it is pleasant to have, as it were, a personal acquaintance with the eminent personage who directed the foundation of Upper California, and to find him a gentleman of such manifest abilities, generous temper, and enthusiasm":— MY FRIENDS: It appears that the Lord, to my confusion, desires infinitely to reward the only virtue I possess, which is my constant faith, for everything here goes on prosperously, even to the mines abounding in metals. Many people are collecting, with abundance of provisions. I hope you will sing the Te Deum in Monterey, and in order that we may repeat it here, you will not withhold the notice of the same an instant longer than is necessary. This is also for Reverend Father Parron. JOSE DE GALVEZ. (Rubrica.) THE EXPEDITION BY LAND. Just as active was he in getting off the land expedition. The chief command was given to Don Gaspar de Portala, Captain of Dragoons, and then Governor of Lower California; the second rank to Don Fernando Rivera y Moncada, Captain of a company of foot soldiers who carried leathern bucklers. And in imitation of Jacob, Galvez, in view of the dangers of the route through savages and an unknown country, divided the force into two parts, to save one if the other were lost. Rivera was to lead the first and the Governor to follow after. Rivera sets out toward the north as early as September, 1768, collecting mules and muleteers, horses, dried meat, grain, flour, biscuits, etc., among the missions; encamps on the verge of the unexplored regions, and sends word to the Visitador-General that he will be ready to start for San Diego in all of March. Father Juan Crespi then joins him, and on the 24th of March, which was Good Friday, he begins the journey. This party consisted of the Captain, Rivera, Father Crespi, who went to keep a diary, twenty-five foot soldiers with leathern bucklers, three muleteers, and a band of Christian Indians of Lower California to serve as pioneers, assistants to the muleteers, and for anything else that might be necessary, and who carried bows and arrows. They spent fifty-two days in the journey, and on the 14th of May arrived, without accident, at San Diego. GOVERNOR PORTALA'S COMMAND. Father Junipero Serra, President of the missions of Lower California, and of those that were to be founded marched with Portala. The season of Lent, the dispositions to be made for the regulation of the missions during his absence, and the preparation for the expedition in its spiritual part, detained him, so that it was May before he joined Portala at the same encampment from which, Rivera had set out. FATHER JUNIPERA AND THE MULETEER. The reverend Father President came up in a very bad condition. He was traveling with an escort of two soldiers, and hardly able to get on or off his mule. His foot and leg were greatly inflamed, and the more that he always wore sandals, and never used boots, shoes, or stockings. His priests and the Governor tried to dissuade him from the undertaking, but he said he would rather die on the road, yet he had faith the Lord would carry him safely through. A letter was even sent to Galvez, but he was a kindred spirit, and agreed with Father Junipero, who, however, was far into the wilderness before the answer was received. On the second day out, his pain was so great that he could neither sit nor stand nor sleep, and Portala being still unable to induce him to return, gave orders for a litter to be made. Hearing this, Father Junipero was greatly distressed on account of the Indians, who would have to carry him. He prayed fervently, and then a happy thought occurred to him. He called one of the muleteers, and addressed him, so runs the story, in these words: "Son, don't you know some remedy for the sore on my foot and leg?" But the muleteer answered: "Father, what remedy can I know? Am I a surgeon? I am a muleteer, and have I only cured the sore backs of beasts." "Then consider me a beast," said the father, "and this sore which has produced the swelling of my leg, and the grievous pains I am suffering, and that neither let me stand nor sleep, to be a sore back, and give me the same treatment you would apply to a beast." The muleteer, smiling, as did all the rest who heard him, answered, "I will, father, to please you;" and taking a small piece of tallow, mashed it between two stones, mixing with it herbs, which he found growing close by, and having heated it over the fire, anointed the foot and leg, leaving a plaster of it on the sore. God wrought in such a manner—for so wrote Father Junipero himself from San Diego—that he slept all that night until daybreak, and awoke so much relieved from the pains that he got up and said matins and prime, and afterwards mass, as if he had never suffered such an accident; and to the astonishment of the Governor and the troop at seeing the father in such health and spirit for the journey, which was not delayed a moment on his account. Such a man was Father Junipero Serra, and so he journeyed when he went to conquer California. ARRIVAL AT SAN DIEGO. On the first of July, 1769, they reached San Diego, all well, in forty-six days after leaving the frontier. When they came in sight of the port the troops began firing for joy; those already there replied in the same manner. The vessels at anchor joined in the salute, and so they kept up the firing, until, all having arrived, they fell to embracing one another, and to mutual congratulations at finding all the expeditions united and already at their longed-for destination. Here, then, we have the officers and priests, soldiers and sailors, and laborers, mules, oxen and cows, seeds, tools, implements of husbandry, and vases, ornaments, and utensils for the church, gotten together to begin the work of settlement, conversion, and civilization on the soil of Californian. The year 1769 is our era. The obscure events noticed must yet by us be classed among its greatest occurrences, although it saw the birth of Napoleon and Wellington. The number of souls then at San Diego should have been about two hundred and fifty, but the San Carlos had had a very hard time at sea, not reaching San Diego (which place she found with difficulty) until twenty days after the arrival of the San Antonio, which sailed five weeks later. She had, of the crew, but one sailor and the cook left alive; all the rest had died of scurvy. The first thing to be done was to found a mission, and to look for Monterey, which from Vizcayno's time had been lost to the world. FOUNDING A MISSION. For founding a mission this was the proceeding:— Formal possession of the designated spot was taken in the name of the King of Spain. A tent or arbor, or whatever construction was most practicable, was erected to serve as a temporary church, and adorned as well as circumstances would permit; a father in his robes blessed the place and the chapel, sprinkling them with water, which also he had first blessed for the occasion, and immediately the holy cross, having first been adored by all, was mounted on a staff and planted in front of the chapel. A saint was named as a patron of the mission, and a father appointed as its minister. Mass was said and a fervent discourse concerning the coming of the Holy Ghost delivered. That service, celebrated with such candles or other lights as they might have, being over, the Veni Creator Spiritus—an invocation to the Holy Ghost—was sung, whilst the continual firing of the soldiers during the ceremony supplied the place of an organ, and the smoke of the gunpowder that of incense, if it was wanting. GATHERING THE INDIANS. The mission being founded, the next thing was to attract the Indians. This was done in the simplest manner, by presents of food and cloth to the older ones, and bits of sugar to the younger ones. When they had learned enough of their language to communicate with them, they taught them the mysteries of the faith, and when they were able to say a few prayers and make in some sort a confession of faith, they were baptized and received into the fold of the church. At the same time they were drawn from a wandering life, collected in villages around the mission church, and instructed in the habits and arts of civilized life. To keep them in the practice of their lessons, spiritual and secular, the father in charge of the mission-had over them the control of a master, and for them the affection of a parent, and was supported, in his authority by the soldiers at the presidios, or an escort stationed at the mission itself. This was the mode of accomplishing what Galvez in his instructions declared to be the first object of the enterprise. And in this manner Father Junipero began the work at San Diego on the 16th day of July, 1769. THE EXPEDITION TO MONTEREY. On the 14th day of July, 1769, the Governor Portala, and a servant; Fathers Juan Crespi and Francisco Gomez; Capt. Fernando Rivera y Moncada, the second in command, with Serg. Don Jose Francisco de Ortega and twenty-six soldiers of the leathern jackets; Lieut. Pedro Fages and seven of his soldiers—the rest had died on the San Carlos or were left at San Diego; Don Miguel Constanzo, the engineer; seven muleteers, and fifteen Christian Indians—sixty-five persons in all, with a pack-train carrying a large supply of provisions, set out to rediscover Monterey. The mortality on board the San Carlos prevented any attempt at that time by sea; that vessel having to be laid up at San Diego, whilst all the efficient men were transferred to the San Antonio, which was sent back with the news and for reinforcements, and lost nine men before reaching San Bias, although she made the voyage in twenty days. Such was navigation on this coast at that time. A third vessel, the San Jose, had been dispatched from Loreto on the 16th of June, 1769, but after leaving the coast of Lower California was never seen again. FATHER JUAN CRESPI'S DIARY. The preceding particulars of the expedition to found the missions in Alta California are from the "Life of Father Junipero Serra," by Father Palou, which is made up largely from the diary kept by Father Juan Crespi, who, as has been stated, accompanied the party for the purpose, and were first given to the public in a lecture before the Society of California Pioneers by Hon. Edmund Randolph, September 10, i860. Father Crespi continued his diary while journeying by land with Governor Portala in search of the bay of Monterey and the place where the priests of the Vizcayno expedition, in 1603, had set up the cross. Portala did not recognize Monterey, but found and named the bay of San Francisco. THE EXPEDITION IN THIS REGION. That portion of the diary relating to the passage of this pioneer exploring party across the territory now comprising San Luis Obispo County, has been translated for this book by Mr. H. O. Lang, of Oakland. The explorers halted on the evening of September 1, 1769, by the borders of a lake to which the father, with his partiality for names of a religious cast, entitled the Laguna Grande de San Daniel. Here the latitude was taken, and the party was found to be in latitude thirty-four degrees, thirteen minutes. From this statement we are inclined to give Father Crespi little credit for strict accuracy in his astronomical observations, since, as we see, he was in error nearly three-fourths of a degree; but some of his subsequent determinations were strikingly exact, if one takes into consideration the imperfection of the instruments of that date. We will now proceed with the diary from the time of their departure from the Laguna de San Daniel:— SATURDAY, THE 2ND.—We set out from the laguna at a quarter past eight, crossing the adjacent plain a distance of two leagues; by the course that we followed, being toward the northwest, the remainder of our day's journey lay over mesas (table-lands) until we came to a watering-place, which was a large laguna, circular in form,-within a glade, some sand piles lying between it and the sea; all this dale is covered with rushes and 'cat-tails,' and is very swampy and wet. It lies from east to west. In the afternoon the soldiers went out to hunt bears, of which they had seen signs, and succeeded in shooting one, the animal measuring fourteen palms from the bottom of his feet to his head; he might have weighed more than fifteen arrobas (375 lbs.). We tried the meat, and to me it seemed very palatable. Six gentiles (Indians) came to visit us, who live in two rancherias, which they say are not far distant. We gave to this lake the names of La Laguna de los Santos Martires, San Juan de Perugia, and San Pedro de Sacro Terrato. Here Serg. Don Jose Francisco de Ortega fell sick of what seemed to be flatulency {flato) also several soldiers complained of their legs. SUNDAY, THE 3D.—This day we rested to allow the scouts to search out a pass by which we might cross the Sierra that we had in sight, and that we supposed extended down to the sea-shore. It seems to be the same range that we have seen upon our right ever since leaving San Diego; retiring in places, and again intruding upon the shore, and now is so close thereto as to cut us off from that course. Our stopping-place was called by some of us Real de los Vivoras; others call it El Oso Flaco (lean bear). MONDAY, THE 4TH.—At half-past six in the morning we started out, taking the road to the west, and crossing the sand-hills by the shortest route that our scouts were able to discover, it being only half a league to the beach. We came then to the shore, which we followed for about a league to the northwest, turning then to the east and crossing the sand-hills again at a narrow place, when we found ourselves on firm ground. For a league further we traveled, our. course lying between two bodies of water. At the right lay a lagoon of fresh water, which rests against the sand-dunes, and is by them cut off from the sea; at the left we have an estero which enters this plain, and obliges us to make a detour to the northwest to pass it. Then taking the road to the north we entered the sierra through a glade covered with live-oaks, alders, willows, and other trees, and halted near a running stream covered with water-cress. In all our course of more than four leagues we encountered but one little rancheria of Indians-but near our stopping-place we found an Indian settlement whose people came to visit us, bringing presents of fish and seeds, to which our Senor Commandante responded with some glass beads. The head man of this rancheria had an immense tumor hanging from his neck at sight of which the soldiers dubbed him El Buchon, the name extending also to the rancheria. The name San Ladislao was given by me to the halting-place, that he might be its patron and protector until its conversion. I observed the latitude and made it 35° 28'. TUESDAY, THE 5TH—At half-past six we left camp, following the valley (canada) until it turns to the northwest, where we left it, taking to the high hills not far from the shore, our course being rough and painful with many ascents and descents, but happily the hills were well covered with oaks, live-oaks, and willows. In one day's travel of two leagues we saw no Indians. We halted at night within a narrow valley encircled with high hills, with running water in plenty and abundance of grass for the animals. I named it La Canada de Santa Elena, but it is known to the soldiers as La Canada Augosta. It is 35º 30'. WEDNESDAY, THE 6TH.—This day was set apart for rest and to give opportunity for the explorers to lay out our future route. THURSDAY, THE 7TH.—We left at half-past six, passing over high hills for more than three leagues of our road, until we came to another vale, spacious, with many ponds of water, whose banks were so muddy as to prevent our horses from approaching to drink. We saw here troops of bears which have ploughed up the soil and dug pits in their search for roots, which are their food, as also the support of the Indians, who feast upon such roots as are of good flavor. The soldiers went out to hunt the bears and succeeded in killing one of them by shooting, after gaining some experience as to the animal's fierceness. Upon feeling themselves wounded the animals rush to attack the hunter, who is only able to escape by his horse's fleetness, the bear never submitting until he receives a shot in the head or heart. The one they killed received nine bullets before it fell, only succumbing to one in the head. Other soldiers had the recklessness to ride up to one of these bears while mounted on poor saddle mules; they then gave him seven or eight shots and supposed he was dead: but he arose and crippled two mules, whose riders only escaped by a scratch. This Canada was named by the party de Los Osos, but I called it Canada de la Natividad de Nuestra Senora. FRIDAY, THE 8TH.—This morning, after saying mass on this great day of the Mother of our Lord's nativity, we set out, following the same canada westward to the sea, meeting on our way some impediments because of deep water-courses whose banks it was necessary to cut down to permit of our pack-train passing; after two leagues we halted upon a hill within sight of the sea, and near a rivulet of good water, upon which grew water-cress. It is a pleasant locality, with many trees and good pastures. Not far from our camp was a band of Indians who seemed to be traveling, for we saw no house; there might have been seventy souls who came to visit us, presenting us with a sort of pinole, made of parched seeds and resembling almonds in its taste; to this the Governor responded with beads, and they left very joyfully. There enters in this canada at its southern side an estero of immense capacity, that seems to us to be a port; its mouth is open toward the southwest, and we observed that it was covered with reefs that occasioned furious breakers; a little distance further to the north we saw a great rock that has the shape of a dome, and. that at high water is isolated and separated from the coast little less than a musket-shot. From the morro the shore makes to the west and northwest as far as a point of land which we made out cut off from the sea, and between this and another point of the sierra that we left behind, the coast forms a great bight, with shelter from the winds of the south-southeast and west; but it is necessary to examine the anchorage. We named the place La Canada de San Adriano. SATURDAY, THE 9TH.—About six of the morning we went out, taking the route toward the northwest, traveling over mesas of fertile land, treeless but covered with grass, and after four hours of journeying, during which we went about three leagues and crossed eight rivulets (arroyos) which run from the mountains to the sea, we halted at the last of these within a glen of moderate breadth, through which runs a stream which terminates in an estero that enters the lower end of the valley or glen. The hills which surround this valley reach to the sea on the west, and prevent our progress along the shore, but leave a free passage to the north and northwest. The party named this halting-place El Estero de Santa Serafina. I took the latitude and found it 36° exactly; but Senor Constanzo made it 35° 47'. SUNDAY, THE 10TH.—After having said mass and hearing all the soldiers, we started out this pleasant morning and took the north-northwest branch of the Canada and traveled along it for the space of two hours and a half, traveling two good leagues. We then left it, as we saw that it turned to the north, where we discovered a mountainous region covered with pines and surrounding a canon of great depth whose sides were thickly clothed with willows, poplars, and other trees. Pursuing our route we encountered a large creek, by whose banks we made our halt for the night, high above the Canada. There came to visit us some seventy gentiles of a rancheria which was not far from us. They presented us with bowls of pinole, for which we returned beads. They brought and offered to us a bear cub which they had bred up; but we refused it. From this circumstance the soldiers took occasion to name our place del Osito (of the little bear); I called it San Benvenuto. Latitude 36º 2'. MONDAY, THE 11TH.—This morning, which dawned very cloudy, we left our camping-place, and traveling down to the sea-shore followed the beach to the northwest. We traveled an hour and a half over an easy route, well provided with streams of good water, then halting by a steep rock in a small valley where runs a rivulet into the sea, which rivulet named El Arroyo de San Nicolas, but the soldiers called it El Cantel. There is abundance of grass and wood. I did not take the latitude, but Senor Constanzo made it 35° 35'. TUESDAY, THE 12TH.—At half-past six we started out, following the sea-shore, for the higher lands were extremely broken and rough. Our road abounded with rivulets and creeks whose washed-out channels gave us much trouble, as a great deal of labor had to be expended in creating a passage for the beasts of burden. We came to a point of land that extends into the sea, and then leaving this to the left we entered a narrow gorge opening from the sierra, and followed it toward the north-northeast, traversing various valleys and streams during a journey of three hours, in which we came two leagues, encountering two watering-places on the way. We halted on a hill beside a very deep canon where there is a pool of water. Apart from us there was a rancheria of Indians, six of whom came to visit us. I named the stream in the canon after San Vincente. Taking the latitude I found we were in 36° 10'. WEDNESDAY, THE 13TH.—We left camp at half-past six in the morning, taking a course to the northwest, part traveling by the Canada and part by the high tablelands to the sea-shore, along which the remainder of cur two leagues of travel lay. We halted between two rivulets where there was plenty of grass and wood. There came to visit us six of the inhabitants of a rancheria which was not far distant, and at midday they regaled us with presents of pinole in their bowls and some good fresh fish, the Commandante responding, as usual, with beads, to the joy of the natives. We had in front of us the very high and rough sierra, thickly covered with pines, that seems to be the Sierra de Pinos or Sierra de Santa Lucia (a landmark by which they expected to find the bay of Monterey), and its roughness would seem to debar us from crossing the range; accordingly our commander halted us for some days in/his place, in order to give opportunity for the scouts to explore the surrounding region. I named this place Los Arroyos de Santa Hunuliana. THE EARLIEST FOOTPRINTS. Thus we see the footprints of the first white people ever within the limits of the county of San Luis Obispo, excepting the earlier navigators under Cabrillo, who in 1542 sailed along the coast, making landings at several points. The line, of march so particularly described is readily traced from the lagunas of Guadalupe, the sand hills of the Arroyo Grande, the Canada de los Osos, the Moro Rock and the Estero, and thus to the northern line by the coast. They appear to have kept the sea in view, trusting to its guidance rather than venture over the coast mountains, until at last compelled to do so by the determined approach to the ocean of the Santa Lucia Range. Keeping the coast so long as possible, to about latitude 36, they entered the hills, and in a few days of rather difficult traveling reached the head of a small stream that led them to Carmello Bay. DIFFICULT TRAVELING. To show the route more clearly we continue the translation from the diary of Father Crespi:— On the 13th of September, 1769, the expedition of Portala halted at Los Arroyos de Santa Hunuliana. They remained there for the two following days, in order to allow the explorer to discover a practicable route over the mountain chain, which prevented their passage to the north. On the 16th they proceeded onward, entering a Canada surrounded with hills of such steepness that not only men but deer and goats could not ascend them. Further along this canada divides, one branch looking east-northeast, the other toward the north. Declining somewhat to the northeast, we saw a hill less steep than those of the canada, by which we decided to ascend, first opening a trail. We traveled a league further, came to its foot, and halted for the night. This halting-place we named Pie de la Sierra de Santa Lucia. On the 17th they traveled a league, when, coming to the spurs (cuchillas) of the hills that form the side of the canada that looks to the north, then went down another hill, very large and high, and halted within a hole (hoya) that has enough of water, wood, and pasture near by. This place they named La Hoya de la Sierra de Santa Lucia. The 18th was spent in resting and opening a road for their further advance. The 19th was similarly spent. On the 20th they ascended a very high hill, near their halting-place; then following by the side of a narrow and deep canon which contained running water, they descended to the stream after awhile, and traveled within the canon, which began to widen. There they were compelled to ascend its side again, coming soon to the very highest elevation in the whole region, which seemed to dominate the whole mountainous region, which extended as far as the eye could reach in every direction. They halted here after having traveled two leagues. Their camp was pitched at the mouth of a little valley where there was scarcely enough space to bestow their animals and baggage. This place was named El Real de Los Pifiones. On the 21st they traveled a league toward the north, following summit of the same range, coming then to their halting-place, which was at an arroyo sufficiently capacious, and whose beginning (nacimiento) was not far away. It runs from east to west, very much inclosed with live-oaks, alders, and poplars. This arroyo they named de los Llagas. The next day (22d) they traveled a league toward the north, and remarked the existence of light, small white hills upon their route. These being close together and dome-shaped. On the 26th they traveled three leagues, mostly down hill, having started with the intention of reaching a stream that the scouts called El Parmelo. Their stopping-place for the night was in a very pleasant and fertile locality which the leaders named La Canada o Rio de San Elizario, but the soldiers, with their disregard of religious solemnities, called it El Real del Chocolate. The following day they followed the river in its north-westward course, halting at El Real del Alamo, having traveled four leagues during the day. On the 28th day they also made four leagues, following the course of the Carmel, and halting at El Real Blanco. Their travels on the 29th covered three and one-half leagues, keeping in sight of the river, and halting at El Real de los Casalores. AT THE BAY OF MONTEREY. On the 30th they came to the sea, and the Point of Pines. They were at the bay of Monterey, the object of their search, and here their long march might have ended. A cross was erected and the services of the church held. But the locality did not fill the requirements expected from the glowing description given by the historian of Vizcayno's expedition, and Portala failed to recognize it. Father Crespi remarks that he "supposed the bay had been filled up, as they found a great many sand-hills." DISCOVERY OF THE BAY OF SAN FRANCISCO. Portala continued northward, hugging the coast, until passing the locality now known as Half Moon Bay; the scouts, in exploring the hills, came in sight of the bay of San Francisco, being the first known discoverers of that body of water. But Father Crespi says "they recognized it at once by the description they had of it." Who made the discovery of the bay of San Francisco has been a puzzling question to historians. Who had given the accurate description to which Father Crespi refers? The Spaniards contend that the party of Portala were the discoverers, but the English claim that Sir Francis Drake entered it in the Golden Hind, and there repaired his ship in July and August, 1579. He was on a legalized piratical expedition, and while seeking richly laden ships or defenseless seaport towns paid little attention to geographical descriptions, therefore he has left a doubt as to the precise locality where he refitted in that eventful cruise. His meager descriptions and some false statements have deprived him of the honor of discovery, and if he did enter the bay no good came of it to the world Lord Anson, another English navigator, in 1742, captured a Spanish galleon en route from Manila, from which he obtained a chart of the California coast, and in this is laid down a large bay in latitude 38°, with a narrow entrance perfectly sheltered from all winds. Ferello had seen the mouth of the bay as he was swept past it in a gale, in March, 1543. An incorrect latitude had been given for it if the bay really had been found, but report of it undoubtedly had been made. This is further proven by the instructions given by Galvez to Father Junipero Serra, when designating the names by which the missions should be called. The father asked him: "But, sir, is there to be no mission for our Father San Francisco?" The Visitador-General replied: "If San Francisco wants a mission, let him show us his port, and we will put one there." The bay was then named San Francisco, and a few years subsequently a mission was established. Governor Portala and his party returned from the bay of San Francisco to San Diego, arriving on the 24th of January, 1770, six months and ten days after his departure. THE MISSIONS IN 1786. The general story of the missions has been one of fulsome praise of the fraternal love and fatherly care of the Indian converts, but La Perouse, the eminent French navigator, a Catholic, who visited the coast in 1786, gives a different impression. Apart from the missions, he states, there was not a white person in all New California. The mission he refers to was at Monterey. He was received into the church through a file of Indians, of both sexes; the edifice was adorned with pictures, copies of Italian paintings, among which his attention was drawn to one representing hell, in which were depicted scenes well calculated to strike terror into the minds of the savages. The habitations of the Indians consisted of about fifty huts, built of sticks and brush and covered with earth. They were the most wretched that could be imagined, about six feet in diameter, and four feet in height; into these were collected about seven hundred and fifty Christians, including women and children. The physical condition of these neophytes was in no respect changed by the influence of the missionaries; their filth was insufferable; and when this and the vermin rendered their habitations insupportable, they were in the habit of setting them on fire, and building new ones. The house of the missionaries and the storehouses were of brick and plastered. He compared the establishment to a West Indian plantation, in which fetters, the stocks, and whips were not wanting to complete the picture. Men and women were treated alike to these punishments, except that the women were whipped in a distant inclosure, that their cries might not be heard by the males, for fear of a revolt. Neglect of the exercises of piety was punished with the lash; and, he says: "Many sins which in Europe are left to divine justice, are here punished by the irons and the stocks. The moment an Indian is baptized, the effect is the same as if he had pronounced a vow for life. If he escapes, to reside with his relations in the independent villages, he is summoned three times to return, and, if he refuses, the missionaries apply to the Governor, who sends the soldiers to seize him in the midst of his family, and conduct him to the mission, where he is condemned to receive a certain number of lashes with the whip." There was no attempt made to teach them the most common arts, and the grain was ground by the women in the primitive Indian method of rubbing it with a roller upon a stone. He presented to the mission a hand-mill, which performed the labor of a large number of women.* * "Seeking the Golden Fleece."—Stillman. SECOND EXPEDITION TO MONTEREY. Governor Portala, as before stated, returned to San Diego with the news of the discovery of the bay of San Francisco, but declaring he had seen no bay of Monterey. Of course he had been along its shores and had erected a cross there, but it was so different from the bay of San Diego—so broad an opening that he could not see the northern shore—that he had not recognized it, or, as some believe, had determined not to recognize it, in order that he might continue his explorations to find the supposed port of San Francisco. In the latter he succeeded, and is therefore entitled to the honor of making it known to the world. THREATENED ABANDONMENT OF CALIFORNIA. The San Antonio, which in July had been sent to San Blias for reinforcements and supplies, had not returned during the winter, and, the stores becoming short, the Governor decided that on the 20th of March he would abandon the mission and the colony would return to Lower California. But on the 19th, the day before the contemplated abandonment, the San Antonio entered the harbor, bringing a great quantity of provisions. This made permanent the occupation of the country. Portala, whether by orders received by the San Antonio or by his own authority, immediately prepared another expedition for Monterey by land and by sea, he taking command of the land expedition, and Father Junipero sailing on the San Antonio. The land party arrived at Monterey on the 23d of May, and the San Antonio on the 31st of the same month, 1770. Father Junipero writes that he found the lovely port of Monterey the same and unchanged in substance and in circumstance as the expedition of Sebastian Vizcayno left it in 1603; and that all the officers of sea and land, and all their people assembled in the same glen and under the same oak where the fathers of Vizcayno's expedition had worshiped, and there arranged their altar, hung up and rung their bells, sung the Veni Creator, blessed the holy water, set up and blessed the cross and the royal standards, concluding with a Te Deum. And then the name of Christ was again spoken for the first time after an interval of more than 167, years of silence. After the religious ceremonies were over, the officers went through the act of taking possession of the country "in the name of our lord, the King." When this news was received at the City of Mexico it created a profound impression, the bells were rung, and there was general rejoicing throughout the country. Monterey seems ever to have been the central point of the Mexican idea of California; the chief port sought by the early explorers, and as a port of refuge in which the Manila galleons might find shelter; the location for the presidency of the missions; the pride and capital of the country under Spanish rule, and until the great influx of Americans transferred the center of population and' the seat of government farther to the north. BY THE CROSS OF MONTEREY. BY RICHARD F. WHITE. PADRE Junipero Serra, When 'twas dying of the day, Sat beneath the tall dark pine trees By the cross of Monterey, Listening as the simple red men Of their joys and sorrows told, And their stories of the missions, And their legends quaint and old. And they told him when Portala Rested by the crescent bay, Little dreaming he was gazing On the wished-for Monterey, That this cross on shore he planted And the ground about it blessed, And then he and his companions Journeyed northward on their quest. And the Indians told the padre That Portala's cross at night Gleaming with a wondrous splendor, Than the noon-sun was more bright; And its mighty arms extended East and westward, O so far! And its topmost point seemed rising Northward on the polar star. And they told, when fear had vanished, How they gathered all around, And their spears and arrows buried In the consecrated ground; And they brought most fragrant blossoms, And rare ocean shells in strings, And they hung upon the cross arms All their choicest offerings. And the padre told the Indians: "Ah, if rightly understood, What you tell me of the cross here Has a meaning deep and good— For that light is emblematic That the time is near at hand When the faith of Christ the Saviour Will illumine all the land. To the cross, cling, O my children! In the storm and in the night, When you wander, lost and weary, It will be a guiding light; Cling to it, and cares and sorrows Very soon will all have passed, And the palm and crown of glory Will be given you at last. Padre Junipero Serra Thus unto the red men told Of the emblem of salvation And its story sweet and old, Sitting by the crescent bay-side, When 'twas dying of the day At the foot of dark tall pine trees, By the cross of Monterey. Additional Comments: HISTORY OF SAN LUIS OBISPO COUNTY CALIFORNIA WITH Illustrations and Biographical Sketches OF ITS PROMINENT MEN AND PIONEERS. OAKLAND, CAL. THOMPSON & WEST 1883. File at: http://files.usgwarchives.net/ca/sanluisobispo/history/1883/historyo/chapteri419nms.txt This file has been created by a form at http://www.genrecords.net/cafiles/ File size: 46.8 Kb