San Luis Obispo County CA Archives History - Books .....Chapter IV The Missions Of San Luis Obispo 1883 ************************************************ Copyright. All rights reserved. http://www.usgwarchives.net/copyright.htm http://www.usgwarchives.net/ca/cafiles.htm ************************************************ File contributed for use in USGenWeb Archives by: Joy Fisher sdgenweb@yahoo.com August 4, 2006, 5:26 am Book Title: History Of San Luis Obispo County, California CHAPTER IV. THE MISSIONS OF SAN LUIS OBISPO. Mission of San Luis Obispo—Ceremonies of the Founding— Attacked by Indians — The Administrative Power — Free Entertainment — Great Wealth of the Mission — Angered Priests—The Secularization—The Mission Repaired — The Buildings Put to Many Uses—At the End of the First Century—The Centennial of the Mission—San Luis Obispo< before 1828—Mission of San Miguel—Rapid Growth—Fruit' Trees and Vines—Fruit Trees Destroyed—The Ruined Buildings — The Ancient Church — A Solid Structure — Father Farrelly—Area of its Possessions—Ranchos Granted—The Mission is Disputed Property—Historic Correspondence— The Occupancy of the Mission—The Property Restored to the Church—San Miguel in 1822—Santa Margarita—A Relic of Father-Junipero. THE mission of San Carlos having been established at Monterey, it was shortly after removed to the valley of the Cormello River, near the little bay of the same name. The mission, of San Antonio was established July 14, 1771, and that of San Gabriel on the 8th of September of the same year. Of the founding of the MISSION OF SAN LUIS OBISPO We have the following, translated from "Father Palou's Life of Padre Junipero Serra" for the San Luis Obispo Tribune:— The venerable father, seeing, from the letters received from the captains of the ships, that they could not come into Monterey, and from the want of mules it was impossible to carry the freight by land, took the trouble to go down to San Diego to communicate with the sailors; on the way down to found the mission of San Luis Obispo de Toloso, and on his return to found that of San Buenaventura. He set out from Monterey with the Commandante Don Pedro Fages, who went for the same purpose, after he had dispatched the mail, and on the road visited the mission of San Antonio. He rejoiced to see how much the number of Christians had increased, and took with him from there Fray Jose Caballar to establish the mission of San Luis. They traveled twenty-nine leagues and arrived in sight of the Canada de Los Osos (the Bears' Pass), where they made a slaughter of those animals to appease, the hunger of the Indians. Finding on that opportune place very fruitful land and a crystal stream to fertilize it, they at once erected a grand cross, and having decorated and adorned it, they took possession of the country. The founding of the mission was on the first day of September, 1772. Our venerable father said mass under a bush arbor, and, setting out on the following day, i. e., the 2d of September, proceeded on his journey to San Diego. He left at the mission two California Indians, to assist, and the Senor Commandante, one Corporal, and four soldiers for protection (a guard), the padre promising that on his return he would increase the number to ten men, for he needed the men to take care of the drove of cattle and the pack-train of provisions. Because of his limited supply, he left for the padre the five soldiers and the above-mentioned Indians, only two arrobas of flour and three almudes of wheat, and to purchase seeds of the Indians he left a box of brown sugar. Leaving the padre very well contented with such a limited supply, placing his confidence in God, he set off on his journey. As soon as the travelers had set out on their journey, the mission father had the foresight to cause the two Indians to cut wood with which to construct a small chapel, which might also serve as shelter for the padre. At the same time the soldiers made their own quarters and constructed a stockade for their defense. Although there had not been before at this place any rancheria (village) of the wild Indians, nevertheless in a short time one was formed. When they had held communication for about three months with the soldiers, who had slaughtered the bears, they gratefully thanked them for having rid their country of such fierce animals, which had killed so many Indians. Of those who were yet alive not a few bore the marks of the terrible claws. They therefore expressed themselves very well satisfied that we had made our home in their country. They frequently visited the mission, bringing the padre presents of venison and wild seeds, and getting in exchange beads and brown sugar. By means of this assistance from the wild Indians the Christians were enabled to maintain themselves until the arrival of the schooner which brought their provisions. In the year of the foundation there were twelve Christians, with four families of California Indians and some unmarried neophytes. So that the mission increased in a material as well as in a spiritual sense. So many of the gentiles were converted that when the venerable Padre Junipero Serra died there had been baptized 616. The mission of San Luis Obispo de Toloso is situated upon a hill at the skirts of which flows a stream of water large enough to furnish water for drinking purposes and to irrigate the surrounding land. It produces an abundance of provisions, not only to maintain the Christians and the garrison, but also to purchase clothes to clothe the Indians. Such is the fertility of the soil that whatever seeds are sown yield abundant harvests. It is situated in north latitude 35º 38', three leagues distant from the sea, where there is a bay called Buchon, to the west. A good road. At the playa (beach) the neophyte Indians have their canoes. They catch fish of various classes, some of which are very savory. This mission is distant from Monterey fifty-seven leagues to the southeast, and twenty-five leagues from San Antonio. The intermediate country is inhabited by wild Indians, whose reduction (conversion) would not be easily accomplished unless other missions were established between them. For these natives do not go away from their own particular part of the country, and such is the variety of their idioms that at every step a new one is encountered. At present there are no two missions which speak the same language. San Luis Obispo has a very healthy climate, being cold in winter and warm in summer, athough neither to excess. The place is to a certain degree incommoded by winds on account of its altitude. The mission has been on three separate occasions set fire to. The first time an Indian set fire to it with a match, which he shot with his bow into the roof. That being of thatch took fire easily and burned the greater part of the building down, causing considerable loss. The second time was on Christmas, when the padre was saying the mass of the cock-crow. It took fire no one knew how, but was soon put out by the people who were assisting at the mass. The last was a fiercer fire, causing more destruction of property. It was never discovered whether it was caused by accident or malice. To prevent similar dangers and calamities the idea occurred to the padre to cover the roof with tiles, and as there was no one who knew how to make them, he made them himself. After this they were free from fire. In imitation of this mission all the other missions adopted the tile roof. CEREMONIES OF THE FOUNDERS. In an article prepared by Hon. C. H. Johnson for the San Luis Obispo Tribune, that gentleman writes:— On the 19th of August, 1772, Father Serra arrived here from Monterey, and, after making a thorough examination of the surrounding country, selected the site now occupied by this city as the most eligible for the proposed new mission. On the 1st of September, 1772, Father Serra, assisted by Father Jose Caballar, blessed and put in place the holy cross. They then suspended a bell to the branch of a sycamore on the edge of San Luis Creek, and, after ringing it some time to attract the attention of the Indians, one of, the priests, advancing, cried out: "Ea! gentiles! venid! venid! a la Santa Iglesia! venid! venid a recibir la fe de Jesu Cristo!" "O! gentiles! come ye! come ye! to the holy church! Come, come and receive the faith of Jesus Christ." The Indians, understanding not a word that was said, expressed by their looks and gestures, however, the utmost astonishment. Mass was then sung amid a vast concourse of Indians. Then was founded the mission, or we might say the city of San Luis Obispo de Toloso, which is its proper name, but, on account of its great length, the last two words have been dropped by custom. The erection of buildings was commenced in the year following the formal occupancy of the place. ATTACKED BY INDIANS. In 1775 the mission was attacked by a large band of Indians that arrived on the coast from the Tulare country, known at present as the San Joaquin. The attack was made in the night. The Indians were repulsed, but not before they had fired the buildings by shooting arrows with lighted torches into the thatched roofs. To avoid a similar calamity in the future, the new buildings and those repaired were covered with tiles. The mission soon became one of the most flourishing in California; extensive buildings were erected; schools established, and the Indians instructed in the mechanical arts. Orchards and vineyards were planted; the arable land cultivated, and the surrounding country stocked with cattle, sheep, horses, and mules. The new building was a quadrilateral, the church occupying one of the wings. A dial was placed in front of the church, fixed on a brick pillar. The facade was ornamented by a corridor, with a fine row of columns supporting the roof. The interior was formed by a court, having a gallery, upon which opened the dormitories of the monks; of the major-domos; and of travelers; and also the workshops, school-rooms, and store-rooms. The hospital was situated in the most retired part of the mission. The young Indian girls were kept in the hall called the nunnery. They were placed under the care of Indian matrons who were deemed worthy of confidence, and taught to make cloths of wool and flax, and were not allowed to leave the nunnery until they were old enough to be married. Among the pupils of the school, a certain number were instructed in music, vocal as well as instrumental. Others were taught to work at carpentery, blacksmithing, etc. Those who distinguished themselves in these branches of skilled labor were appointed overseers. THE ADMINISTRATIVE POWER Consisted of two monks, of whom the elder had charge of the interior and of the religious instruction, and the younger the agricultural works. The small garrison, consisting of a Corporal and five soldiers, served the double purpose of keeping the refractory neophytes in subjection, and of adding to the numerical strength of the mission, by making occasional incursions with the Christianos viejos—old Christian Indians—into the Tulare country, to force the gentiles or heathen Indians into the fold. The Indians were divided into squads of laborers. At sunrise the bell sounded the angelus, and every one set out for church; after mass, they breakfasted, and then went to work. At eleven they dined, and this period of repose extended to two o'clock, when they returned to labor, until the evening Angelus—one hour before sunset. After prayers and the Rosary, the Indians had supper, and then amused themselves with dancing and other sports. Their diet consisted of fresh or dried beef; and also mutton, as much as they chose, together with tortillas—thin cakes of flour or cornmeal—beans, peas and vegetables; fruit was occasionally distributed to them. For dress they wore a linen or cotton shirt, pantaloons, and woolen blanket. But the overseers had habits of cloth. The women received every year two chemises, a gown, and a blanket. When the hides, tallow, grain, and wine were sold to ships from abroad, the monks distributed handkerchiefs, wearing apparel, tobacco, and trinkets among the Indians; and devoted the surplus to the embellishment of the church, the purchase of musical instruments, pictures, sacerdotal ornaments, etc. Still, they were careful to keep a part of their harvests in granaries, to provide for years of scarcity. FREE ENTERTAINMENT. All travelers were hospitably entertained at the mission free of charge. Upon leaving, they were tendered fresh horses; also a flask of wine and a prepared luncheon —para el camino—for the road. The mass of the Indians were lodged in rows of small houses of one story, situated near the north, east, and west sides of the main building. They were built of adobe—a large sun-dried brick—as were likewise the main mission buildings, except the north and west walls, which were of stone. The roofs were covered with tiles, and the walls whitewashed. The church tower contained a fine chime of bells, imported from Spain. The mission, as a whole, presented a fine picture when viewed from a distance from a commanding position. The red-tiled roofs of the buildings with their white walls; the silvery-green foliage of the olive mingling with the deeper shades of that of the fig and other trees; the water ditches winding through vineyards and gardens; the mountain stream with its banks bordered with giant sycamores and drooping willows, curving gracefully in its course through the heart of the mission, the water appearing at intervals through the green foliage, reflecting the rays of the sun with sparkling brilliancy, contrasting most picturesquely with each other, and with the bold features of the mountain scenery, and the perfect azure of the sky. GREAT WEALTH OF THE MISSION. The mission rose to great wealth anterior to the secularization, being regarded as one of the wealthiest, probably occupying the first rank of all the missions of California. But it has undergone many changes since it passed its zenith. Tradition says that a former Bishop fled to Spain, taking with him $100,000 in treasure, ordered to do so by the church authorities in the mother country.* By some it is said that a great part of this treasure was obtained by mining, and that not many years ago a priest came from Spain having tracings of a map he had found among the archives of the California missions, showing San Luis Obispo and a road to the mine and to some smelting furnaces in the valley of the Arroyo Grande. With the dethronement of Spanish power in California, the mines were closed and all traces of them obliterated as far as possible on the surface, and none were found by the priest who had come so far in search, there being no certainty that any ever existed. However, the existence of ruined furnaces (los hornos) was well known to the early settlers, Branch, Price, and others, but whether used for smelting silver ore or burning lime were questions of doubt. The missions were deprived of some of their powers by the Mexican Government shortly after the acquisition of the independence of the latter, but this so threatened their destruction that the acts were rescinded. This was in 1825 and 1826. *Colton in his "Three Years in California," published in 1849, says: "In 1821 the mission of San Luis Obispo had 78,600 cattle, 2,000 tame horses, 3,700 mules, and 27,000 sheep. One of the fathers of this mission took $100,000 with him when he left for Spain in 1828." ANGERED PRIESTS. In 1833 the decrees of secularization were made. Then commenced the most reprehensible acts of destruction by the angered priests. For over half a century they had held absolute power in the country; established and maintained by the aid of their home government until they became self-supporting, then controlling all the resources of the country, with the simple natives as obedient laborers without other pay than their necessary sustenance; with numerous and almost numberless flocks and herds; lords of the manor and exempt from taxation, occupying one of the pleasantest and most prolific countries of the earth, they easily became rich, their success cultivating the spirit of cupidity until, with the greater number, the desire for wealth and power became the passion exceeding their duties to the people they had come to convert. The power they had established was more apparent than the civilization they presumed to teach. The civilization was of the rudest kind known to the patriarchal times; faint glimmerings of the social state of Europe of a thousand years preceding. The Indians of the coast had been subdued, and the region of the missions opened for settlement, but the Indian had not been changed in his nature nor so instructed as to be able to further progress or even maintain his position when left alone. The priests and their converts occupied the positions of absolute masters and abject slaves or dependents, the property created to all intents and purposes belonging to the former, although presumed to be for the benefit of the latter. At an early day after the establishing of the mission of San Luis Obispo, vines of grapes, and orchards of olive, pear, fig, and other trees were planted, all growing vigorously. These had been growing near fifty years when the decrees of secularization were issued, and, we are told, were grand and prolific trees, but, with a few exceptions, they were destroyed by order of the priests. Of the exceptions were two fig trees standing west of the mission buildings, which continued to flourish until about 1880. These had attained a growth of thirteen feet in circumference of trunk two feet above the ground, and the spread of the limbs was eighty feet in diameter. THE SECULARIZATION Has usually been alluded to as an act of despotic tyranny, depriving a people of property they had created or succeeded to according to law; but really it was only recovering the public domain for the public use from those who had been placed upon it for a great and good purpose and for a period. But the reasonable period had long expired; the Indians were still degraded and helpless, and the church power excluded all other. To introduce a self-sustaining, progressive people it was necessary to deprive the church of its power, and therefore the decree of secularization was an act of wise statesmanship. While the act was a wise one, it was not carried out in such a manner as to result in the many benefits intended. There appears to have been a general scramble for the property previously possessed by the missions. These establishments, from the affluence and power they once enjoyed, were reduced to extreme poverty. In 1838, the Rev. Father Sarria actually starved to death at the mission of La Soledad, after having labored there for thirty years.* The priests were not all so conscientious nor devoted in their duties and their mission as Father Sarria. They generally joined in the slaughter of the stock for the hides and tallow obtained, and shared in the spoil where they did not destroy. The great buildings, which had been erected by the early fathers and the labor of the neophytes, commenced their rapid decay. From 1833 t0 1846, they remained under Mexican control, having been sold in 1842 by order of Governor Micheltorena, but subsequently restored. At the latter date, the missions had sunk to their most degraded condition. *Gleeson's "History of the Catholic Church in California." THE MISSION REPAIRED. In 1847, the mission of San Luis Obispo was extensively repaired, as under the change of Government there appeared a prospect of its becoming valuable property, either for Mr. Wilson who claimed its ownership as a purchaser, or the parish priest, Father Gomez, who maintained possession of the chapel. Then also commenced a series of improvments in the old mission gardens, resulting in saving the land for the benefit of the Catholic Church. THE BUILDINGS PUT TO MANY USES. Since the occupancy of the country by Americans the old buildings have been used for many purposes; as barracks for soldiers, Court House, jail, school house, restaurant, saloon, and residence. Some of the occupants were mere interlopers, taking possession as if it were public property, but generally the title has been conceded as in the Catholic Church, to which it was confirmed in the name of Bishop J. S. Alemany by the United States Board of Commissioners, giving to that organization the buildings and 52.72 acres of land. This land had been inclosed in walls prior to the change of flags in 1846. In 1874 that portion south of San Luis Creek in the town of San Luis Obispo was laid out in town lots and sold, and the city rapidly extended over it. About the year 1880, the building underwent a thorough system of renovation, removing the arcade that had extended along the front, and putting in a frame structure and a belfry where the adobe portion threatened to fall into ruin, and as such it now stands. The modern innovations, called improvements, have much detracted from its romantic, mediaeval appearance, but it is still a quaint structure, and will remain as long as it can be preserved, a quaint and very interesting object. Since the eventful change of Government in 1846, the mission has been under the charge of Reverend Fathers Gomez, Sastre, Mora, Galera, and Roussell, the latter being the incumbent in 1883. AT THE END OF THE FIRST CENTURY. A writer visiting San Luis Obispo in September, 1871, writes of the mission in the following enthusiastic manner:- Even Father Sastre, the Spanish priest in charge of the old mission, seems to have taken the contagion from these restless Americans who are building up San Luis Obispo, and displays an amount of energy seldom met with in one. of his calling and country. Showing us through the mission church and the grounds attached, we saw everywhere the fruits and effects of the good father's industry. The mission which had lain idle and neglected for forty years when the padre was sent to take charge of it, is looking fresh and cheerful, as far as the padre's hand can reach. The walls of the church are all the way from three to nine (?) feet in thickness, and constructed of adobe and rock mixed. Though unused and exposed for such a length of time, nothing was ever taken' from the church; everything down to the little old-fashioned silver censer and incense jar, is still there just as it was nearly a hundred years ago. The ceiling and walls of the church have been newly painted sky-blue and pink—at good Father Sastre's suggestion. In the vestry-room were the very basin and urn in which the padres, so many years before, washed the sacred cloths pertaining to the communion service; and richer and grander than anything I had ever seen were the vestments and robes which had lain in this same old chest of drawers for over seventy-five years. Silk, brocaded with gold and silver flowers, and satin with raised arabesques running through it; surely there is nothing manufactured in our day like these vestments sent from wealthy, wicked old Spain to flaunt in the faces of the gaping, worshiping Indians. To the remark of friend Murray, "That many a shipload of grain and beef-hides must have gone back to Spain for these robes." Father Sastre replied in his native tongue: "When you want fine bread you must send the best of flour." And they could afford to "send the best of flour," these old padres, when the mission was in its prime. Are we not told of one father who returned to his native land with $100,000 in gold from this very church? The mission owned some 80,000 head of cattle then, and over 70,000 head of sheep; not to mention a small matter of 5,000 or 6,000 horses, and about an equal number of mules. Then we followed the padre into the belfry. He turned, good-naturedly, to warn us, in his broken English, of the bumps we might encounter from the irregularities of the ceiling over the uneven adobe stairway. Of the five bells brought out from Spain, and marked with the name and date of the San Luis Obispo Mission, only one has lost the use of its tongue, and sits by sullenly in one corner. From here we stepped into the choir, where the instruments were kept on which the mission Indians had once discoursed sweet strains. A kind of base viol, some other stringed instruments, and a near relative of our barrel-organ stood in the loft together; and these Father Sastre intends to have repaired for the centennial celebration of the founding of the mission, which takes place on the 19th of August, 1872. THE CENTENNIAL OF THE MISSION. The centennial celebration was held on the day named, the 19th of August, that being the day of the arrival on the spot of Father Junipero Serra, and the day of San Luis, although the ceremony of the founding of the mission did not take place until September 1,1772. The centennial celebration was attended by a large concourse, people coming from Los Angeles, Santa Barbara, Monterey, Santa Cruz, and other points to share in the ceremonies. Rev. Father Codina, of Santa Barbara, delivered an address, sketching the life of Junipero Serra, and Rev. Father Adam, of Santa Cruz, lectured on the history of the missions of California. SAN LUIS OBISPO BEFORE 1828. There are but few records attainable of the past condition of the missions, unless we search the archives of Spain. Going backward to the days of 1846, we would expect to find persons then living with knowledge and memory sufficient to give correct information, or in possession of statistics of value and reliability. Rev. Walter Colton, in 1846, was Alcalde of Monterey; was familiar with the language, and en rapport with the prominent men of the country. He wrote a book entitled "Three Years in California," in which he appears to have been very particular in statistical matters. He writes of the mission of San Luis Obispo as follows:— This mission stands thirteen leagues south of San Miguel, and within three leagues of the coast. It has always been considered one of the richest missions in California. The presiding priest, Luis Martinez, was a man of comprehensive purpose and indomitable force. His mission grant covered an immense tract of the richest lands on the sea-board. Every mountain stream was made to subserve the purpose of irrigation. He planted the cotton tree, the lime, and a grove of olives, which still shower their abundant harvests on the tables of the Californians. He built a launch that run to Santa Barbara, trained his Indians to kill the otter, and often received thirty and forty skins a week from his children of the bow. His storehouse at Santa Margarita, with its high adobe walls, was one hundred and ninety feet long, and well stowed with grain. His table was loaded with the choicest game and richest wines; his apartments for guests might have served the hospitable intentions of a prince. He had 87,000 head of grown cattle, 2,000 tame horses, 3,500 mares, 3,700 mules, eight sheep farms, averaging 9,000 sheep to each farm, and the broad Tulare Valley, in which his Indians could capture any number of wild horses. The major-domo of this mission, in 1827, scattered on the ground, without having first plowed it, 120 bushels of wheat, and then scratched it in with things called harrows, and harvested from the same over 7,000 bushels. This was a lazy experiment, but shows what the land may yield when activity shall take the place of indolence. Father Martinez returned to Spain, taking with him $100,000 as the fruits of his mission enterprise. On the secularization of the missions in 1834, the property fell a prey to State exigency and private rapacity. A gloomy wreck of grandeur only remains. MISSION OF SAN MIGUEL. The mission of San Miguel Archangel was established July 25, 1797, and is the sixteenth in the order in Alta California. The locality is on the west bank of the Salinas River, immediately below the junction of the Estrella River, and is surrounded by many square leagues of grazing land. Here the two rivers are in broad valleys adorned with large oaks, and along the streams grow Cottonwood, willow, sycamore, and other trees, and large areas of land susceptible of successful cultivation. The mission is thirty-four miles north of the city of San Luis Obispo, and about four miles south of the line dividing the county from Monterey. The site was well selected as about midway between the mission of San Luis Obispo de Toloso and the mission of San Antonio de Padua, which is thirty-nine miles northwest, the founding of the latter bearing date July 24, 1771, being the third in age of the missions. At the date of the establishing of San Miguel the region was thronged with Indians, those of the Tulare Valley and of the Sierra Nevada often making incursions, using the easy passes of the Monte Diablo range east of the locality, the valley of the Estrella and the Paso de los Robles on their way to the coast, where they often went in their raids against the coast Indians, and for the purposes of trading and fishing. The mission of La Soledad, founded October 9, 1791, farther north on the east bank of the Salinas, completed the chain of protecting and converting establishments between San Luis Obispo and Monterey. RAPID GROWTH. San Miguel rapidly grew into importance, becoming one of the most prosperous and populous of the missions, though never so wealthy as that of San Luis Obispo. The fathers soon discovered the adaptability of the region for sheep grazing, and brought to it large flocks of these animals, which in course of time increased to many thousands, it being reported that at one time the mission, with its dependent ranchos, was the owner of 91,000 cattle, 1,100 tame horses, 3,000 mares, 2,000 mules, 340 oxen, and 47,000 sheep. The population increased with the material prosperity, and in the height of its power it numbered among its dependents 6,000 Indians, besides the soldiers and civilized people (gente de razon) necessary to have about such an establishment. The ranchos San Marcus and Paso de los Robles were established as farms- and stations belonging to, and part of the mission, and other stations as were necessary throughout the country under its control and grazed over by its flocks and herds. The mission also cultivated much land, continually having a large supply of wheat, corn, and beans. The ranchos of San Marcus and Paso de los Robles were the chief farming localities, and their granaries were kept well filled. FRUIT TREES AND VINES Were planted at an early date at the mission and in other localities under the control of the fathers. For a long series of years the people of San Miguel feasted upon the abundant fruit grown, and which arrived to such perfection in the warm and genial climate of the valley. A few miles north, over the border of Monterey County, is Vineyard Canon, where still flourish vines planted by the authorities of the mission so many years ago that no one tells the date. Of the fruit trees none now remain. Upon the secularization the priests in charge exerted their utmost to destroy all fruit-bearing trees and vines. As such efforts were made at all the missions, it is very probable they were ordered so to do by distant powers. But a few pear trees still remained at San Miguel. Doubtlessly the conscience-stricken monk who had been ordered to destroy them spared these; perhaps he had fed from their luscious fruit or enjoyed their pleasant shade; or their great beauty had so impressed him that he had learned to love them; or in his benevolence he wished that future generations should share their products; or he would leave them as a reminder of the good things his brothers had enjoyed; for these were left to live and bear. For forty-six years longer they were allowed to grow and beautify the spot, the bright, green, living monuments amidst surrounding decay. FRUIT TREES DESTROYED. Their fate is told in the following letter to the editor of the South Coast, published in San Luis Obispo in 1879:- SAN MIGUEL, Feb. 16, 1879. EDITOR SOUTH COAST: The mission of San Miguel was created near 100 years ago, and about that time the mission fathers caused to be planted, at the cost, of considerable trouble and necessarily quite an expense (at that date), some pear trees; and among those that were put out at that time there were a few that survived the storms of winter and the droughts of summer for near a hundred years and lived. Of course, standing as it were as guardians keeping watch over the old church buildings, and having such a history attached to them, living monuments continually referring the spectator to the past century, and seeming to say "that all works of art constructed by the mission fathers may crumble, fall, and pass away, but we, if you will permit us, will stand here forever as an evidence of the good work of those who placed us here!" And so the people loved them, and called them a landmark of great value. In springtime, when in bloom, they were an ornament to the place; delicious fragrance filled the air from their blossoms, and in summer they were laden with fruit. But alas! the ax in the hands of a stranger laid them low, and the lover of the sublime works of nature, and those who can appreciate the value of these evidences of ancient days when the good mission fathers were forced to combat every hardship imaginable in order to plant the first bud of civilization in our country, can only mourn their loss. They are gone, and with them the greatest attraction of the church property at the Mission San Miguel. They were cut down by a man who, upon being asked why he did it, replied that the present priest of this parish told him to do so; and if he did, I do not know by what right the priest ordered it done, or whether he had any right at all; but I do know this deed is considered an assumption of power, and be he priest or parishioner, this one act is condemned by the whole community. Such acts of vandalism have been common about all the missions of California, generally through the malice and vengeance of the ecclesiastical power, but none appearing more malicious than the despoiling of the impoverished mission of San Miguel. In some localities, where cities have grown up around the old mission sites, the necessities of business, or its greed, have been plead in justification of the destruction of the monuments of the earliest civilization and settlement of the land, and now, at San Miguel and elsewhere, but the indestructible walls and crumbling ruins remain. THE RUINED BUILDINGS. The church and the ruins at San Miguel vividly impress the beholder with the great extent and importance of the establishment in the days of its prime. Over forty acres of ground these ruins extend, now broken walls of adobe, stone, and tiles, with partly-standing dwellings and store-houses, telling in silent tones of the thousands of dark-skinned converts who once dwelt in their precincts in quiet subservience to their spiritual fathers, busy with their tasks or sports, and attentive to the mysterious calls of the mission bells. The sun-dried bricks remain, though slowly crumbling to the earth of which they are made; but the people are scattered; have disappeared; have passed from the earth. not more able to encounter the fierce energy of a self-sustaining, high civilization than are their adobe structures to withstand the abraiding storms of time. THE ANCIENT CHURCH. But the church building appears indestructible. This was erected early in the present century, and is one of the largest and most solidly constructed of the old missions of California. The building stands upon a plain three-fourths of a mile west of the Salinas River and faces to the east. A long, low wing extends to the south, originally 490 feet in length, about half of which is now in ruins. An arcade extends from the church in front of the wing 225 feet, of which 13 arches, supported by pillars, still remain, with other broken pillars and foundations, indicating that the arcade once occupied the whole front. With the exception of one or two places where repaired by shingles, the entire roof is covered with tiles of semi-cylinders of earthenware, each about two feet in length, half an inch in thickness, six inches in diameter at one end and five at the other, lapping into each other, put on in two layers, the first with the concave surface up, forming gutters, the latter with the reverse covering the joints of the under layers. Substantial rafters of poles and hewn timbers were used, across which a lattice of smaller sticks were lashed with thongs of rawhide, and on these the tiles were laid, holding themselves in position by their own weight, and sometimes better secured by cement. Such was the universal method of constructing the roofs of all buildings in California, adobes forming the walls, prior to the introduction of frame and wooden structures by the Americans after the discovery of gold in the Sierra Nevada. A SOLID STRUCTURE. The Mission church, the central object of observation, is a very substantial and capacious structure. The dimensions are 230 feet in length by 44 feet in width on the exterior; is 45 feet in height to the eaves, and £he walls are 7 feet in thickness. These are of adobe, containing a mixture of cement, which is also in. the mortar in which they were laid, and appear as solid and endurable as brick or stone. The floor is of brick, or hard-burned tiling, as is a broad porch in front. The inner walls are plastered and frescoed, the frescoing representing a gallery with pillars, and is as fresh, apparently, as when painted. Through all the vicissitudes and despoliations the venerable pile has undergone, the sacred ornaments of the church still remain. In the western end is the altar. Over it stands its patron saint, Michael the Archangel, in life size and very handsome, clad in gorgeous apparel of gold and crimson, holding aloft his sword of light. Above him is a broad banner, on which is emblazoned the all-seeing eye, with rays of light radiating from it. On the right side of the altar, carved in wood and brightly painted, is the statue of St. Joseph holding the infant Jesus in one arm and bearing the shepherd's staff in the other. Opposite is the statue of the founder of the order, St. Francis de Assisi. By the side of the altar is a painting representing St. John the Evangelist, with one foot resting on a skull. There are other paintings of various sacred objects, generally in brilliant colors, and with the bright ornaments of the altar are in vivid contrast with the ruin, decay and neglect seen everywhere about the old mission. Around the walls are hung many small pictures, dimly seen in the faint light permitted to enter the great hall, which, from the great thickness of the walls, ever contains a cellar-like, chilly atmosphere. No seats were ever provided for the congregation, and all devout worshipers were required to kneel upon the hard and cold floor of tiles. In this, however, an innovation has recently been made, and a few pews have been constructed near the altar, sufficient for the number who assemble at the fortnightly service as held at the present time. FATHER FARRELLY. Since 1878 the mission has been under the charge of Rev. Philip Farrelly, who is devoted to its preservation. The many bishops and priests who have preceded Father Farrelly have left no record of their ministry at the old mission, but with their communicants have passed away. AREA OF ITS POSSESSIONS. The great area of land once occupied by the mission was taken from its control at the time of the secularization. Previous to that its authority extended throughout the whole region of country comprising the northern and eastern part of San Luis Obispo County, and over all ranged its flocks and herds at will, and the fathers gathered their Indian converts. Manufactories of woolen blankets and cloths were established, crude and simple they must have been, operated by the Indian neophytes, the product used for the comfort of those dependent upon the mission and supplying others. Trade was carried on with other missions and with shipping on the coast. RANCHOS GRANTED. After the secularization large grants were made of the land formerly subject to San Miguel, the Asuncion Rancho getting 39,224.81 acres; Atascadero, 4,348.23; Cholame 13,919.82; Huer Huero, 15,684.95; Paso de Robles, 25,993.18; Santa Ysabel, 17,774.12; and a vast area remained unsought and unclaimed. THE MISSION IS DISPUTED PROPERTY. The mission, as a church, or individual, or corporation, no longer existed, no longer possessed property, and finally, the buildings themselves were taken possession of as abandoned property, in some instances taken for public purposes, and in others by private individuals. They were converted into town halls, drinking saloons, stores, lodging-places for travelers, and other base uses, even prior to the occupation of the country by the Americans in July, 1846. In several instances they were entirely deserted and unoccupied at that date, after which people took possession and claimed the buildings, orchards, vineyards, and surrounding land as their own. The Mission of San Luis Obispo had been transferred to John Wilson, and Mr. Read took possession of the buildings at San Miguel. HISTORIC CORRESPONDENCE. The following correspondence gives a glimmering idea of the status of the mission property at the date given, as well as an original letter from one who has since borne a conspicuous part in our national history:— THE OCCUPANCY OF THE MISSION. STATE DEPARTMENT OF THE TERRITORY OF CAL., ) MONTEREY, September 15th, 1847. ) SIR: In reply to so much of your letter of the 4th inst. as relates to the mission of San Miguel, the Governor directs me to say that the question of title to the lands of said mission cannot now be decided; and that until the subject can be further investigated, the present occupant, Mr. Read, will be left in possession. As a difficulty seems to occur in determining what rooms in the mission properly belong to the parish priest, the Governor directs that you select three rooms in said mission for the use of the priest, and put him in possession of such rooms; you will, however, in this selection choose such rooms as will give the least inconvenience to the family of Mr. Read. Let both the priest and Mr. Read fully understand that their possession is in no way to affect the validity of existing titles. With respect to the possession of the buildings, etc., at San Luis Obispo, as directed in my letter of the 24th of August, I have now to remark that that order was not intended in any way to affect the validity of existing claims to said property. It was only temporary in its character, and cannot affect any title or claim which Mr. Wilson and others may have to the mission or mission lands. You will therefore proceed to put the parish priest in possession of such lands and tenements as in your opinion properly belonged to the priest, on the 7th of July, 1846. You must, however, let the priest and other claimants perfectly understand that this possession gives them no title whatever, but is merely a temporary arrangement for the mutual convenience of the parties concerned, the question of title being left for future decision. Very respectfully, Your obedient servant, To DON J. MARIANO BONILLA, H. W. HALLECK, Alcalde of San Lieut. of Engineers and Luis Obispo, Cal. Sec. of State for Ter. of Cal. THE PROPERTY RESTORED TO THE CHURCH. Only occasional letters of the character of the preceding one are now to be found, but the few in existence are like the fossil remains in the rocks, showing the footprints in the progress of time by which, we may trace our country's history. Mr. Read and his family subsequently met a tragic fate, all being murdered, the particulars of which will be found in the later pages of this book. For many years the title to the mission property was a matter of doubt, having been alienated by order of Governor Michiltorena in 1842, but the Commissioners, appointed to settle California land cases accorded to the Catholic Church the ownership of the buildings and such ground as was inclosed and under the immediate charge of the priest of the mission at the time of the change of flag. Under this decision the mission of San Luis Obispo became owner of about fifty-two acres of land, known as the mission garden, and to San Miguel was accorded thirty acres. Since the church has regained exclusive ownership, portions of the building at San Miguel have been devoted to various purposes, leased by the church for hotel, saloon, shops, etc. A small village is now built close by, and across the Salinas surveyors have marked the station of San Miguel on the Southern Pacific Railroad, yet to be built. SAN MIGUEL IN 1822. Rev. Walter Colton in 1849 wrote of this mission as follows:— This inland mission is situated sixteen leagues southeast of San Antonio, on a barren elevation; but the lands attached to it sweep a circuit of sixty leagues, and embrace some of the finest tracts for agriculture. Of these the Estrella Tract is one; its fertility is enough to make a New England plow jump out of its rocks; and a hundred emigrants will yet squat in its green bosom, and set the wild Indians and their warwhoop at defiance. In 1822, this mission owned 91,000 head of cattle, 1,100 tame horses, 3,000 mares, 2,000 mules, 170 yoke of working oxen, and 47,000 sheep. The mules were used in packing the products of the mission to Monterey, and bringing back dry goods, groceries, and the implements of husbandry. But now the Indian neophytes are gone, the padres have departed, and the old church only remains to interpret the past. SANTA MARGARITA. A third mission is often claimed for the county, as having been established at a very early date at Santa Margarita. A building was erected on the sightly bench of land in the lovely valley northeast of the Santa Lucia Range, about eight miles north of San Luis Obispo and i dedicated to its patroness, Santa Margarita, but it was only a branch of the mission of San Luis Obispo de Toloso, and under its management. The walls of rough stone and cement, a coarse unartistic structure, still stand, interesting as a reminiscence of the past and picturesque as a ruin of one of the sacred edifices of early California. Rev. Walter Colton refers to this as built for a granary to one of the ranchos cultivated by the good Father Martinez, of San Luis Obispo, and that it was usually well filled with grain. A great rancho now embraces the old ruin, the rancho of Santa Margarita, of 17,735 acres in extent, and the owner, Gen. P. W. Murphy, exercises the protecting care over the pleasant and romantic locality. A RELIC OF FATHER JUNIPERO. A writer to the San Francisco Bulletin, of a recent date, relates the following of a discovery of an original chronicle of the early settlement of California:— In turning over some antiquated books and papers at the mission of Santa Barbara, in 1864, the reverend father in charge of that establishment found an old manuscript memorial on the earliest times in California in the handwriting of Father Junipero Serra, which had been laid away since the year 1773. How it got into the Santa Barbara Mission, which was not founded till 1786, two years after the old friar's death, is now unknown, but from the contents, which freely set forth the arbitrary conduct of Pedro Fages, who was Military Commandante and then Governor of the colony from 1782 to 1790, there is no doubt that the Mexican Government suppressed its publication at the time Junipero's biography by Palou was printed at Mexico in 1787. Indeed, on examination of this biography, we find the matters pertaining to this lost chronicle are very briefly and gingerly alluded to, and consequently it is of real value in making clearer the early history of California. The memorial consists of twenty-three pages folio, and is addressed to Don Antonio Bucarilli, Viceroy of Mexico. It is dated by Father Junipero from the College of San Fernando, in Mexico City, the 21st of May, 1773, and it seems that it was written at the special request of the Viceroy, who was an earnest friend of the Californian missions and colonists, as is further set forth in numerous papers still preserved in the archives of the country. It appears from this paper, relating the principal events between 1769 and the year 1773, when Father Junipero returned to Mexico to report progress to the Government and his college, and procure additional missionaries, soldiers, and pecuniary supplies; that there were in 1773 not over forty soldiers in the following first established foundations: Santa Maria de los Angeles and San Fernando Villacita on the frontier in California (as the peninsula was still denominated); and San Diego, San Gabriel, San Luis Obispo, among the Tichos tribes, San Antonio and Carmelo, termed then the Monterey establishments, for it was not until after 1790 that the Spaniards began to designate this country separately as Alta California. In consequence of the great numbers of wild Indians, Junipero modestly asked for a force of 80 soldiers and two pieces of cannon to protect the infant colonies, in place of 100 men, which had been proposed; and it was not until the close of the century, when the missions numbered eighteen, and the military posts, or presidios, four, that more than 200 soldiers were stationed in the country extending from San Francisco to San Diego. The first missions were all built of stakes set upright into the ground, and inclosed by a square of similar palisades for defense against Indian surprises. The churches and priests' houses were plastered over inside and outside with mud and whitewashed, and it was twenty years afterwards before these establishments began to be constructed of unadulterated adobes. All the present buildings remaining in 1865 were erected of new materials, of stone and adobe, between 1810 and 1830, and none of them occupy the original sites of the primary foundations—a fact which has escaped the notice of nearly every one of the chroniclers of California affairs. The seven missions named were presented each 38 head of cattle, by order of the King, enumerated by Junipero as 21 bulls, 9 cows, and 8 calves, and these 286 cattle were the progenitors of 300,000 head of cattle owned by the missions at the secularization in 1833, after deducting the thousands used for food and for hides and tallow in the lapse of forty-three years after 1790. Mention is made of hogs, horses, mules, goats, and sheep, but in no book or account we have seen is the number stated at their first introduction. All the animals, except some cavalry horses from the presidio of Sonora, were introduced from the defunct missions of the Jesuits in Lower California, whence also were brought all the principal grains, fruits, and vegetables which afterward succeeded so admirably, and helped to preserve the stock animals for augmentation on the overflowing pastures of the new settlements. These pastures of the confines of the coast then maintained deer, elk, antelope, and mountain sheep in droves of thousands, surpassing immensely any portion of Mexico yet explored. For years the principal clothing of the civilized Indians and soldiers was buckskin, or gamusso, and priests and people reveled in fat venison. The settlements of Carmelo, San Antonio, and San Luis Obispo were easily established. The Indians were found very docile, and submitted readily to the government of the priests. San Diego was among a branch of the fierce Yumas from the Colorado, and there a missionary was killed and the buildings burnt. San Gabriel, 210 miles from San Luis Obispo and 120 from San Diego, was then the only city of refuge in all that immense stretch of country. It was commenced in 1771. Junipero asserts this region to be the finest country he had yet seen, and with soil, climate, wood, water, and pasture capable of maintaining all the seven missions established up to the date of his memorial; and subsequent history has proved the truthfulness of his assertion. The padres were on the most friendly terms with the Indians of San Gabriel, who were very numerous and anxious to learn the ways of the new strangers and become Christians. But Capt. Peter Fages, an overbearing Catalonian, then in command of the cavalry force, thwarted the priests in every way he could within the limits of his authority. He is to this day called by the few old King's soldiers, who knew him before his death or departure after 1795, "the old bear." They say he was notorious in social life for his tyranny over his wife, Dona Eulalia, which caused her for many years to separate from him. This high-mettled old cavalier was not reconciled to his lady Empress until after he had become Governor of California, and then only after much diplomacy and the kind offices of Father De La Suen, the President of the missions subsequent to Junipero's death in 1784. Junipero relates in his memorial that the soldiers he left at San Gabriel were a bad, desperate, dissolute set, who obstructed his priests in every way, under the excuse that Fages had so instructed them, and frequently ill-treated the Indian women. At one time they invaded a friendly rancheria near San Gabriel, and after killing the chief, cut off his head, brought it into the padre's presence and threw it down before the young son of the murdered chief, who was then being instructed by the priests at his parents' request. This high-handed proceeding greatly troubled the pious fathers, who were horror-struck at the impious example of their desperate countrymen. It was a repetition of the old story of the conquistadores, of Cortez, Alvarado, and Pizarro, who had as little mercy on Indians, good or bad, as the wildest and most desperate frontiermen of the Mississippi. If the priests had not stood between these sons of lust and gold and the natives, the aborigines of California and Mexico would have gone to the sepulcher of extinct humanities centuries before the epoch of gold. But they were spared as peons; instead of being killed off, they were preserved in a little better state than African slavery. The venerable President brings his memorial to a close by a short account of the first settlement of San Diego, when the Indians took the ships of Captain Perez, who brought the first maritime expedition and missionaries, for whales. The day of the arrival of these vessels was the nth of April, 1769, when an eclipse of the sun occurred in conjunction with the shock of an earthquake, the first occurrence of the kind mentioned in California annals. "So it seemed," says the Old Venerable, "that the insensible things of earth and heaven had in this way manifested themselves in the new conquests as heralds and advents to the benighted gentiles, to incline their hearts to receive the truths of the gospel, proclaimed by the ministers of the living God." The founder of California, though an humble missionary friar, was a man of great experience in frontier life, and a keen and sagacious observer of nature and of men. He had an excellent education for his times—had served as a missionary several years in the Indian missions of the central Mexican mountains, had once been a college professor in Majorca, and his calligraphy and literary composition were of a fine order and style. His zeal, industry, and disinterestedness were extraordinary, and he is one of the brightest examples in the Roman Catholic history of the United States. Additional Comments: HISTORY OF SAN LUIS OBISPO COUNTY CALIFORNIA WITH Illustrations and Biographical Sketches OF ITS PROMINENT MEN AND PIONEERS. OAKLAND, CAL. THOMPSON & WEST 1883. File at: http://files.usgwarchives.net/ca/sanluisobispo/history/1883/historyo/chapteri420nms.txt This file has been created by a form at http://www.genrecords.net/cafiles/ File size: 56.1 Kb