Santa Barbara County CA Archives History - Books .....Part II Early Days In Santa Barbara 1920
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Book Title: Santa Barbara And Montecito Past And Present

Early Days in Santa Barbara

   Some thirty years ago, the task of constructing a scene of the early days of
Santa Barbara would have been comparatively simple, but today almost all of
those who then figured in history have passed away, and only their descendants
are left, from whom much of the following material has been gathered.

   It is probably true that the old Californians were, so far as merely material
existence is concerned, perhaps the happiest people who ever lived upon the face
of the earth. They were few in number in a country of inexhaustible natural
wealth; the climate enabled them to live out-of-doors all the year round, and
made exercise a pleasure, for it is neither too warm nor too cold at any season.
The cattle, horses, and sheep fed on the richest pastures, and were never cared
for as it is necessary to do with animals in the East. If more land was needed,
it could be obtained for the asking; a man dowered his daughters from the public
domain, and had only to take the trouble to select what he thought the best.

   Poverty, in the sense in which it is understood today was unknown, for he who
was poor lived on his rich relations; the houses were always open to every one,
and at the table sat uncles, cousins, and nieces, to the farthest degree
removed, welcome with the family to the chili con carne, beans, tortillas, and
dulces which composed the ample meals.

   Indians were their servants, or rather part of the family, since they were
paid no wages in the sense of the word; on feast days they would be given a new
blanket, scarf or petticoat, and a little money to spend. Illness and doctors'
bills were unknown. When the ranchero traveled he found a free hotel at every
house; and when his horse was tired, he simply lassoed a fresh one out of the
first pasture he came to, turned his own adrift, and went on.

   Their few wants were mostly supplied from their own lands, and for such
luxuries as tea, coffee, sugar, or bright dress stuffs for the women, they sold
hides, horns and tallow to the Boston traders.

   But they had none of the energy and ingenuity of civilized life. They merely
lived and had no thought for the morrow; they planted no trees, few fields were
plowed; and a soil which is the richest in the world, and a climate in which the
orange, the vine, and olive flourish, served them merely for pasture. Is it to
be wondered at that the few old Californians still living regret the change?

   In the early forties, the citizens of Santa Barbara relied on the visits of
trading vessels for everything in the way of luxuries, which were exchanged for
hides, etc. In those days there were no wharves, the buyers being conveyed from
shore to ship by sailors dressed for the occasion in blue flannel shirts, with
white stars on the collars, blue cloth trousers, leather belts, and with bare
feet. The "jackies" of those days had lots of fun in carrying the ladies in
their arms and depositing them in the stern sheets of the boat, for the trip to
the ship, the surf at times being heavy, and drenching the fair cargo before
pulling away from the shore. Then the excitement of boarding the treasure ship,
which contained the latest fashions from Boston, and bargaining for anything
which took their fancy. All had open accounts, to be paid for at some future
period in hides and tallow, and such was the honesty that characterized the
trading, that very few bad debts were made, the balance of account usually being
in favor of the trader-the New England variety which held the trade in this
section being unusually keen.

   How the senoritas did chatter as they looked over the treasures, always under
the watchful gaze of an elderly duena, to keep them out of mischief and the men
at a distance, but all precautions were vain at times, since love laughs at
duenas and other impediments, many a love match and subsequent marriage
resulting from visits to the ships of these Boston traders.

   The cargoes usually consisted of clothing, hardware, boots and shoes,
jewelry, clocks, shawls, combs, furniture, and liquors and groceries of all
kinds. The import of assorted cargoes and the export of hides and tallow became
a great trade on the coast, and constituted the chief commerce of the country
down to 1849, when the gold rush started.

   The people seemed happy and content; their wants were few, and "Sufficient
for the day" was their motto. Though the land around Santa Barbara was very
rich, it lay idle, for the most part. Each family raised a little corn; or
rather, they had Indians raise it for them. The corn they ground in a rude
manner between two stones before each meal, and out of it made tortillas, and
with these and dried beef and yerba buena tea, they were satisfied. Of course,
the rich families lived better.

   Boston merchants had the whole trade of the coast. Almost every ship that
came hailed from Boston; so they thought Boston was the United States. The only
thing they had to export was hides and tallow. Once a year the large rancheros
slaughtered their fat cattle, dried the beef, and saved up the tallow and hides,
and transported all to a shipping point. For a good dry hide they could get
$2.50 in trade, or $1.25 in cash. Sometimes when they had a surplus of dried
beef they sold it for export to the islands or Chile.

   When the killing time came on at the large ranches, Indians were gathered,
and they did ail the work. Each Indian would have about a dozen dogs, and all
would live high during the killing time, and go away fat. The buzzards would
gather in great numbers, and devour what the Indians and dogs would leave. It
was against the law to kill a buzzard, and they seemed to know it, as they were
without fear. They were sometimes so gorged that they could not rise from a
level piece of ground, but would have to waddle up to some elevation and then
float off. The sports of the people were horse-racing" and cock-fighting, their
amusement the fandango, while monte was their only gambling game. Deer-hides
furnished a good part of the wearing apparel of the men, though they had some
sheep, the wool from which was woven into blankets by the Indians. The clothing
of the women, which was very simple, came from Boston.

   A very old inhabitant of Santa Barbara remembers the time, some eighty years
ago, when her brother traded some deer skins for a gun and four tooth-brushes,
with an American captain. The tooth-brushes were the first seen in this part of
the world, but after rubbing their teeth and gums with them till the blood came,
the family decided they liked best the brushes made of pounded willow-root that
they had always used. After the trading ship went new dresses were cut out, and
made up by the Indian women, and the old lady still remembers how proud she was
of some large brass buttons with eagles on them, with which her mother trimmed
one of the new garments, and how she used to polish them every day with the
tooth-brush and some of the powdered egg-shell which her sisters and all the
Spanish ladies used on their complexions on state occasions. One of the
neighbors, who came from several miles away to see the new purchases, offered to
give her a fine colt for six of the buttons, but they were much too precious to
be bartered away.

   The only form of dwelling in early Santa Barbara was the adobe with tiled
roof; it was well calculated to keep cool in summer and warm in winter, -and is
today in many respects the most suitable houses for the climate.

   The interior of the houses was plainly furnished, the chief luxury being
generally found in the furnishings and decorations of the senora's room, no
matter how simple her domicile.

   Objects of pride with the California housewife were the family garments
stitched and embroidered to a nicety, but objects of supreme pride were the
beds. Not less than luxurious must they be, with ticks filled with down, silken
counterpanes, and satin pillow-covers edged with lace or embroidery.

   In the old days it would be difficult indeed to find a community in
California who got more out of life than the citizens of Santa Barbara. The
commonest dress had a picturesque air, since rich and poor usually wore a silver
or gold braided wide sombrero, which with the gay colors of jackets and
breeches, made up a costume which, though grotesque in the present d-ay, was
eminently suited to the period.

   Silks, satins, and richest brocades of such material as would last a lifetime
(not like the present day flimsy affairs) characterized the ladies' dresses; in
a trousseau it was not uncommon to find as many as forty dresses of silk and
satin, besides embroidered Philippine shawls, scarfs, and fine linens.

   The costume worn by women of the middle class consisted of a bodice with
short embroidered sleeves, often richly trimmed with lace, a muslin petticoat
flounced with scarlet or other bright color, and fastened at the waist by a band
of the same hue, shoes of velvet or satin, a cotton reboso or scarf, necklace
and ear-rings of pearls or other stones, with the hair falling down the back in
broad braids. The English style was affected by some women of the wealthy class,
and instead of the reboso, a rich shawl of silk or satin-was worn. There was
something graceful in the management of the reboso which the Spanish woman alone
can impart, and the perfect nonchalence with which it was draped about them,
added much to its beauty.

   Barbecues, meriendas, or picnics were a favorite diversion, and the time
passed pleasantly in dancing, music, and games; hot refreshments were usually
served, consisting of tamales, enchiladas, roast polios (chickens), and often a
calf, deer, or kid barbecued whole on the spot. The generous fare usually
concluded with an assortment of dulces (cakes and candied fruits), fresh fruits,
nuts, and native and foreign wines.

   Relations between mistress and maid were indeed happy in those days; although
servants, especially old retainers, were permitted many privileges, the master
and mistress were regarded with the greatest respect, as being responsible for
their welfare. The favored servant, who usually waited at table, would often be
permitted to break into the conversation, much to the astonishment of guests who
were unacquainted with this custom. An old Spanish proverb bearing on this is as
follows:-"Un buen criado sabe cuando callar y cuando meter su cuchara" (A good
servant knows when to be silent and when to put in his spoon). 

   Some of the great ranches were like the ancient feudal estates, one of the
most notable being that of Captain Jose de la Guerra y Noriega, a Spaniard, and
founder of the de la Guerra family of Santa Barbara. Very wealthy, he owned
fifty leagues of land, 20,000 head of cattle, and 12,000 horses. Both he and his
wife, who was of the family of Carrillo, were ardent supporters of the church,
and devoted to its interests; so good were they to their less fortunate brothers
as to be called "defender of the poor" and "that most charitable lady." An
American visitor to Santa Barbara early in last century is reported to have said
on her return home that she found two superlatively good things in California.
"La Senora Noriega and grapes." It is also told that Captain Noriega when about
to pay for merchandise brought in by ship would take his creditor to the attic
of his house, a room which was used solely for storing his treasure. Here were
two ancient Spanish chairs, and at intervals were standing over a dozen coras
(Indian baskets) the largest holding about half a bushel, all of which contained
gold, some being almost full. It is also told how the sons of Captain Noriega
removed two or three tiles from the roof under which stood these baskets, and
then, with a home-made tool, raked out the sum desired; surely a -novel
way of tapping their father's banking account.

   The Spanish-Californians were noted for their extreme politeness, even to the
point of superfluous ceremony. It was customary for each member of the family to
meet and embrace an acquaintance on entering a room. This cordiality was
extended to the stranger as soon as the members of the household recognized him
as a friend.

   This ease and grace of character extended to all classes of people, the
poorest often exhibiting a courtesy that would become a prince, in their
attitude to each other as well as towards strangers.

   A guest upon entering a house was immediately assured that everything was at
his disposal, the usual salutation being:-"es casa de usted" (this house is
yours), though it was not to be assumed that this offering was to be taken
literally; still, their inborn hospitality always made the visitor feel at home.

First American Settler in Santa Barbara

   The honor of being the first American-born permanent settler in Santa Barbara
undoubtedly belongs to Joseph Chapman, he having been enrolled as a colonist by
Governor Sola in 1818.

   Originally from Boston, where he had learned the trade of a shipwright, he
became a sailor, and landed at Buenos Aires just in time to be impressed as a
member of the crew of the Argentine privateer captained by the Frenchman
Bouchard, who raided the coast of California in 1818. A party of buccaneers was
landed at "El Refugio," the Ortega ranch about thirty miles north of Santa
Barbara during these raids, and while engaged in plunder, were attacked by
soldiers from the Presidio. A fierce skirmish took place, several pirates being
killed and driven into the sea, and two taken prisoners.

   These two were taken into the Ortega ranch, one of them being Joseph Chapman,
and Senorita Guadalupe Ortega, a girl of sixteen, dressed the wounds he had
received, and at the same time lost her heart to him. A few days later, when
Chapman was tried by court-martial, the young Senorita went to Santa Barbara to
plead for his life; the comandante of the Presidio, being a kind-hearted man,
said that if anyone would be responsible for the appearance of the prisoners
when called upon, they should go free, and Capt. Antonio Lugo, agreed to be
responsible for Chapman, and to take him to Los Angeles in case some harm should
befall him here.

   Jose Chapman, as he was afterwards called, being ingenious and of an
industrious disposition, as well as possessing good manners and deportment,
gained the favor of the Californians, and a year after his landing as a
prisoner, he came from Los Angeles to Santa Barbara, and wedded Senorita Ortega
at the Santa Barbara Mission.

He became noted for the success attending every project which he planned, and
the padres said he could get more work out of the Indians when superintending
them than all the major-domos of the missions put together.

   A ship being needed for the use of the Mission of San Gabriel, Chapman, under
the direction of Padre Jose Sanchez, undertook to build one, undeterred by the
fact that he would have to obtain the necessary timber from the mountains some
thirty miles away from tidewater. He made a selection of the best trees suitable
for the purpose, had them cut down, hewn into planks, and transported to San
Gabriel, where he framed the vessel into sections for fitting together. When
this unique work was completed, he conveyed the many parts down to the beach at
San Pedro, and with great ingenuity assembled them, the result being a sixty-ton
schooner. It was most successfully launched and christened "Guadalupe," amid the
cheers of a large number of people who had gathered from far and near to witness
the event.

   From the records of land grants in Santa Barbara County, it would appear that
4,440 acres were deeded to Jose Chapman in 1838, and subsequently confirmed to
his wife, Guadalupe Ortega de Chapman.

   Later, when the first American adventurers came to Santa Barbara, they found
Jose Chap man, with fair-haired children around him, in business as a carpenter
and millwright, and a great favorite of the padres. He died in 1858; many of his
descendants still living in Santa Barbara and engaged in commercial activities
at the present time.

Famous Wedding at Santa Barbara

   To Santa Barbara belongs the distinction of having celebrated within its
Mission church, in 1822, with all due pomp and ceremony, the first great wedding
taking place in California during the Mexican regime, that between Don Luis
Arguello, one of the most interesting men in early California history, and Dona
Maria Soledad Ortega, of the Rancho del Refugio, Santa Barbara.

   For months many Indian girls had been busy making silks and satins into
gowns, and fashioning fine drawn-thread work on bedspreads and undergarments,
while a dozen girl friends of the bride-to-be embroidered the flowers of the
country, particularly the red gold poppy, on various dainty white garments.

   The bridegroom had sent to the City of Mexico for the customary donas, or
presents, consisting of silk stockings, mantillas, fans, laces, sashes, high
combs bound with gold, pearls from Baja California, a topaz necklace, a rosary
of amethyst beads, and, most important gift of all which if forgotten would have
cost him his bride, six camisas or smocks, fine as cobweb, richly embroidered
and trimmed with precious lace.

   The wedding dress of the bride was made in the prevailing fashion, with long
pointed bodice and full skirt, with a mantilla hiding her blushes and flowing
nearly to her little feet. The bridegroom wore his most gorgeous uniform.

   The Rancho del Refugio, where the wedding festivities were held, faced the
sea, and the guests from Monterey and San Francisco came by ship, while those
from the ranches traveled on horseback or by carreta, a low wagon made from
solid sections of trees, springless, and drawn by bullocks; evidently anything
but a comfortable conveyance. Among the numerous guests were representatives of
all the well-known Old California families, Carrillos, Orenas, de la Guerras,
Estudillos, Vallejos, Alvarados, Castros, Picos, Estradas, and more Ortegas;
those who could not be housed even half-dozen in a bed in the great adobe house
met the wedding party at the Mission, and then rode over for the three days and
nights of dancing and festivity, when beds, no doubt, were superfluous.

   When the happy pair had departed for San Francisco, the older members of the
party said a governor's wedding in the cathedral of the City of Mexico could not
have been more gorgeous, but the memories of the younger generation did not
extend beyond the good times they had had in merrymaking and treading the "light
fantastic toe."

Californian Indian Musical Instruments, Songs, Dances and Games.

   One of the most popular musical instruments •among the Californian natives
was a flute of elder wood or deer's horn, which was played like the dulce. It
was entirely open from top to bottom, and made in different sizes. It produced
eight tones perfectly, and on it were played various tunes, nearly all in one
measure, most of them merry.

   They had also another stringed instrument, consisting of a wooden bow to
which a string of sinew was bound, producing a note.

   Their songs, whether happy or sad, were usually all in the same tone, though
sometimes they would raise and lower the voice in thirds, fifths, or octaves;
they had no idea of part singing, excepting when many sang together some would
go an octave higher than the rest. Most of their songs were merry, though some
were sad in parts, but if the song was one of vengeance or bad wishes-from which
many a fight would result-they would sing and dance at the same time, speaking
ill of those with whom they were on bad terms, and mentioning their defects, or
anything they knew to their disadvantage.

   In dancing, they would stand in a circle, and without moving from the spot,
bend their bodies, move their feet, and make many contortions; whether this was
intended to strengthen their own courage for the fray, or to frighten their
enemies, history does not say.

   One of their favorite sports was playing with a ball made of hard wood. The
Indians belonging to the Presidio would play those from the Mission, as many as
300 playing at a time; boundary lines were established between the contending
parties, the object being to drive the ball over the boundary lines of their
opponents. Great excitement attended these games, the wooden ball used often
laying out a player as in the modern games of football or baseball. Many of the
fatigued or injured Indians would afterwards retire to the "Temascales" (the
Indian Turkish bath) to heal their bruises or sleep off their weariness.

   In Santa Barbara County the major portion of the population lived on the
ranchos, which contained anywhere from 5,000 to 50,000 acres, the owner of each
rancho possessing from 1,000 to 10,000 head of horned cattle, and from one or
two hundred to 3,000 or 4,000 horses, broken and bronco. Money was plentiful,
the country prosperous, the rancheros were well dressed and housed, and had an
abundance of stores, both home produce and imported.

   The hospitality at the ranchos was wonderful. Anyone, stranger or no, could
travel the length of the country without cost, being furnished with a fresh
horse as every rancho, and leaving the one previously ridden. To charge a
traveler for anything received would have been considered the height of meanness.

   Monotonous as was ranch life, social intercourse and amusements were not
wanting. Religious fiestas were celebrated frequently at the Mission with much
pomp and ceremony, the most important of these being during Holy Week, and on
Corpus Christi and St. John's Day.

   Also, on the occasion of a wedding a grand fiesta would be given either at
the rancho or Mission, to which all were invited. Some of the guests came many
miles, families traveling in their elaborate carretas, and the beaux taking the
belles before them on their fine saddles, the young man sitting on the croup
with his bridle arm on the shoulder of his fair passenger, or round her dainty
waist.

   These marriage celebrations would last for three or four days, and after much
feasting and dancing the guests would scatter to their ranches, where the
major-domo and Indian vanqueros had carried on as if the owner himself had been
present.

   Hardly was a child born in Spanish-California before it was hurried to the
priest for baptism. When eight or ten years of age, it was often betrothed; and,
if a girl, married when thirteen or fourteen. Fathers made the marriage
contracts and the wedding festivities were elaborate.

   One of the quaint customs which was always observed at weddings was to wind a
silken tasselled string or a silken sash, fringed with gold, about the necks of
the bride and groom, binding them together as they knelt before the altar.

   The bridegroom's present to the bride, or dona, consisted of at least six
changes of raiment, and on no account did he forget the "camisa." Such an
oversight would be construed into a personal insult to the bride, and he
therefore sought these with as much earnestness as the Peri the gift which was
to unlock Paradise. Having found six which were neither too full nor too
slender, he packed them up daintily, often in rose-leaves, and sent them to the
lady as his last bridal present.

   On the wedding-day, two fine horses, procured especially for the occasion,
were led to the door, saddled, bridled, and pillioned. The bridegroom took up
before him the godmother, and the godfather the bride, and thus they went to the
church, where the priest received them at the altar. On the return journey,
after the ceremony, the bridegroom took his bride before him on the pillion,
steadying her in the saddle with his right hand, and holding the reins in his
left, and thus they returned to the home of the bride's parents, being generally
received with a discharge of musketry. Two persons, stationed at some convenient
spot, would then rush out and seize the bridegroom by the legs, and before he
had time to dismount, take off his spurs, which he was compelled to redeem with
a bottle of brandy.

   The newly-married couple would then enter the house, where the near relatives
were waiting, in tears, to receive them, and the parents of the bride would
solemnly bestow their blessing. Then would commence the dancing and merriment,
which continued often for three days, with only brief intervals for refreshment,
but none for sleep, the wedded pair being expected to be on their feet
practically the whole time.

   A most charming custom among the middle and lower classes was for the groom
to make a pair of satin shoes for the bride. The Benedict-to-be approached his
betrothed a few weeks before the wedding, and requested a measurement of her
foot, since it was the invariable rule that he had to make the shoes with his
own hands; it was then the duty of the "best man" to deliver them to the bride
on her wedding-day.

     Spanish Californian Dances Among the many pleasures popular in
Spanish-California, easily the most popular was the dance, and more particularly
the folk-dance. The scene might be either a sala indoors, or the open air; the
performers, caballeros with braided hair, and senoritas with flowing locks; the
instruments, the violin and guitar, the figures, la jota (danced by four to
sixteen couples), la zorrita, el caballo, el jarabe, and el fandango.

   When a lady danced with unusual grace, the male spectators often showed
appreciation by throwing coins and trinkets at her feet.

   The use of cascarones was commonly practised at all great entertainments,
cascarones being egg-shells filled with finely-cut gold and silver paper,
cologne, or harmless colored water. Sometimes, prior to the formal opening of
the carnival, on the journey or at the arrival, cascarones were broken upon one
another, and frequently the sport became so boisterous that the dresses of the
ladies and the faces of the caballeros suffered. At the ball this mirthful play
was frequently dispensed with, but it is related by travelers that it was the
crstom at the dance for the senoritas to break cascarones of cologne water upon
the heads of their favorites, this often being an invitation to dance, or a
challenge to a mild flirtation.

   The old Spanish serenades, once sung everywhere in California are rapidly
disappearing; the following is probably one of the most beautiful examples of a
lover's song:

So Calm the Night
So still and calm the night is, 
The very wind's asleep; 
Thy heart's so tender sentinel 
His watch and ward doth keep. 
And on the wings of zephyrs soft 
That wander how they will, 
To thee, oh woman fair, to thee 
My prayers go fluttering still.

Oh take the heart's love to thy heart 
Of one that doth adore! 
Have pity-add not to the flame 
That burns thy troubadour! 
And if compassion stir thy breast
    For my eternal woe, 
Oh, as I love thee, loveliest
    Of women, love me so!

A Country House in the Olden Days

   The patio would be full of servants of both sexes, but principally women, and
one wondered what they all found to do. It would seem, however, that the
mistress of the house had two servants for her exclusive use, and each child,
boy and girl, had one whose sole duty it was to care for him or her. Four or
five would grind the corn for the tortillas, and six or seven serve in the
kitchen; nearly a dozen attended to the sewing and spinning, and five or six
were kept busy with the laundry. As a rule, the Indians did not find it easy to
learn more than one duty; the cook would not wash clothes, and a good
washerwoman considered herself aggrieved if asked to sew or to spin. No fixed
pay was given, the mistress giving them what was needed; when sick the servants
were cared for; when their children were born, the master and mistress acted as
godparents ,and later attended to their instruction.

   Education was usually the thing about which the Californian, priest or
layman, troubled himself least. For girls it usually consisted of dancing,
music, religion, and amiability. One of the belles of 1840 relates how she went
to school in an adobe house in Santa Barbara, where a Spaniard taught them many
new things, but when he said the earth was round, they all laughed out loud!

   Some of the more liberal Californians, however sent their sons out of the
country to be educated, some to Europe, and some to parts of the United States.

La Casa de Aguirre

   It is a pathetic fact that today very little remains of the old adobe houses
reminiscent of the early days of Santa Barbara.

   Such was that belonging to the Aguirre family, which once faced the site of
the present Chamber of Commerce building on Carrillo Street, and was the scene
of many gay festivities.

   The old mansion was built under the supervision of Don Jose Antonio Aguirre
for his bride elect, Senorita Maria Estudillo, daughter of Jose A. Estudillo of
San Diego, whom he brought there in 1842.

   The house was quadrangular in shape, containing nineteen large apartments,
with the usual patio in the center, and built on a raised stone foundation. Its
spacious rooms, whose deep windows were set with tiny panes of glass, and
barricaded on the outside with heavy wooden shutters, were handsomely furnished;
the large sala, some thirty feet long, was filled with fine furniture, pictures
and tapestries, most of which had been brought from Spain and other countries
There were fine antique tables of rich woods, sofas and chairs to match;
pictures set in massive gilt frames, rarely seen in those days, adorned the
frescoed walls, and three large chandeliers with crystal pendants, hung from the
ceiling.

   The ample grounds were encircled by a stone wall which enclosed the well,
fruit orchard, flower and vegetable gardens. The court, the nucleus of many
historic associations, was forty feet square. The railing.and fluted columns,
continuous around its sides, which bordered the porches fifteen feet in width,
were covered with rare exotics and brilliant tropical climbers. Entrance and
exit, excepting through the main door, and into the store on the southwest
corner, were through this court. Protected alike from the heat and the wind, and
secluded from the passers by, the family would gather for a social hour. Guests
would take advantage of its porches for a quiet promenade amid the fragrance of
flowers and melody of the native birds. In times of fiestas, anniversaries or
balls given to people of celebrity a canopy shut out the sky and the court was
converted into a large hall. Sometimes wandering Maromas (Mexican strolling
actors) acted their various attractions before admiring audiences. On the
ocasion of balls the Senoras and their daughters appeared in rich brocades, silk
rebosas and antique jewels which were only brought out of the treasure chests on
notable assemblies. Hither came the Hills, the Dens, the Carrillos, the de la
Guerras, and others of social prominence adding honor and dignity by their
presence. It is said that the famous beauty Concepcion Arguello came with the
inmates of La Casa Grande to partake of the hospitality of those who occupied La
Casa Aguirre. Its owner removing to San Diego in 1850, it stood for a long time
vacant Early in the civil war, a local company, the Mounted Rifles, kept their
armory in this house; and later, Capt. Copley, of the First California
Volunteers, used the building as a barracks while in Santa Barbara. The first
celebration of the Fourth of July, with its usual program, took place on the
front corridor.

   On this wide verandah Sheriff Twist assembled his posse when he undertook to
eject Jack Powers and others from the Arroyo Burro under a process issued by the
Supreme Court. During the fight several men were wounded, Pat Dunn was killed,
the Sheriff severely wounded, and the ends of justice defeated for the time
being. A compromise to the satisfaction of the interested parties was effected
eventually.

   The Sisters of Charity transferred their school from Las Cienguilla to the
Aguirre house for a short period. In 1846, during the American occupation,
Lieut. Col. Fremont was entertained, his headquarters being a short distance
away, on the site now occupied by the artistic edifice of the County National
Bank and Trust Co., of Santa Barbara.

   During the Mexican war, Lt. Henry Burton, in command of the 1st Battalion of
the 1st New York Regiment, U. S. A., garrisoned the town in 1847; he and his
officers were frequently entertained by the Aguirre family. A happy result of
this visit was the marriage of one of Lt. Burton's daughters to a son of Don
Jose Aguirre.

   When the parish church was burned in 1865, leaving the padre with no place to
administer to his flock, they gathered in the drawing room at the right of the
main entrance.

   An Italian named Lobero, who sought relaxation in music from real estate
deals, used the house in which to drill his orchestra. He formed an amateur
local opera company, with himself as manager, director and chief soloist, and
made the old house echo with selections from the great masters of Italy.

   In April, 1868, the public schools gave their first evening entertainment
here, in which eleven nationalities and nearly every family in the town were
represented. Shortly afterwards, the ladies of Trinity Church, gave a festival
in the house which netted them the munificent sum- for those days-of five
hundred dollars. The Rev. E. M. Belts of the First Congregational Church, was
ordained and installed by Dr. Stone, the silver-tongued orator from San
Francisco, in this building, the people crowding into the court, the porches,
and even taking possession of the private rooms.

   Even elections were held at this central and now public place, the most noted
was that held for local option in 1874, at which the ladies were permitted to vote.

   It is quite a coincidence that Mr. Janssens the compadre of Don Jose Aguirre
in early days, was the last person to wholly occupy the house. He kept the post
office in the corner of the house first used as a store, where about 1867, the
mail which was brought overland by stage or semi-monthly by steamer, was handed
out to the townspeople. With the death of Mr. Janssens the house became deserted
and fell into ruins, and was finally demolished to make way for the modern
dwellings that now occupies this historic site.

A Thousand Peso Bribe

   A story is told of a visit made by a typical keen trader of those days to
Governor Alvarado. who happened to be at Santa Barbara, early in 1842.

   The trader was anxious to get his goods sold quickly, without the tediousness
of passing the Customs, so early one morning, in company with a sailor
shouldering a bag containing one thousand Mexican pesos, a visit was paid to Don
Alvarado.

   The approach to the Governor's house was guarded by a fierce looking soldier,
armed with an antiquated musket; "No admittace here," shouted the sentry,
fearing the trader had a bill to collect, but on being assured it was the other
way about, lowered his musket and permitted them to enter. A short parley with
Alvarado- who had the itching palm in excelsis, as the padres at the Mission
could tell were they alive-and the trader departed with the necessary signed
papers for the unloading of his cargo, and the loading of hides and tallow,
without the usual tardy formalities.

   A lady writing of the early days, refers to the visit of Governor Alvarado,
and represents him as being a full-blooded handsome Spaniard, with coal-black
curly hair, and "clad in broadcloth and whiskers"!! What a sensation he would
make if he could only come back and walk down the State Street of today!!

Golden Days in Santa Barbara

   When gold was discovered in California in June, 1848, an era of great
prosperity dawned for the "cow counties" as parts of Southern California,
including Santa Barbara County, were called. Every bullock was worth a bag of
silver dollars, and the cattle which had been slaughtered for their hides and
tallow to be exchanged for foreign goods, would have brought their owners great
fortunes had they still been alive. There were, however, still vast herds around
Santa Barbara, and the Guadalupe ranch alone had 40,000 head. The de la Guerras
with more than two hundred thousand acres of land had still more, and it was not
uncommon for the monthly sales of cattle to-total many thousands of dollars.

   The simplicity of living practised by the Californians hitherto was now
revolutionized by the sudden wealth that had come to them, and they appeared to
be dazed by the greatness of their prosperity and like the present day "war
millionaire" had more money than they knew what to do with. The selection of
dress, jewelry, and furniture, horse-racing, gambling, bullfights, cockfights,
and all kinds of festivities, made up their days. Mirth and vanity reigned over
every other sentiment, and life to them was just one diversion after another.

   We are told that the ladies, in those golden years, never deigned to draw on
a stocking less fine than silk, and the clay floor of the adobe house was no
stranger to the sweep of regal satin; purple and fine linen were worn regardless
of time, place, occasion or occupation.

   The demand for cattle, and the fabulous prices paid, brought one long gala
day to the inhabitants of Santa Barbara. They moved about like so many bright
birds, the caballeros in their dashing array, and the senoritas with their
re-bosas of fine silk. There was food for all, and no thought of want entered
their minds.

   This delightful state of things continued for a few years, but eventually
some enterprising people began importing large herds of cattle into California
from the east; these bullocks could be purchased in the prairie states at $10 a
head and sold in California at $100 a head, so it was a profitable occupation.
It resulted, however, in lowered prices, and by 1862, beef was sold in the mines
at two cents -a pound, live weight. Cattle from Santa Barbara, which had to be
driven many hundred miles before reaching the market, were at a great
disadvantage and there was little demand for them.

   With the large numbers on hand and no market, an arrangement was made to
reduce the herds by a wholesale slaughter; this took place-close to the
sea-shore at Montecito, and a hundred thousand cattle were sacrificed, the
average price received for them being $5.00 a head.

   This slaughter to a certain extent relieved the market, but caused great
losses. The great drought in 1863-4 completed the ruin of the California cattle
owners. The great herds were no more, and Santa Barbara, whose -assessment roll
in 1863 showed over two hundred thousand head of cattle, had less than five
thousand to eat the new grass that grew when the rains came again in 1864-5.

   The great stock owners, who, in many instances, had already become mortgaged
on account of low prices, were completely ruined by this stroke of ill fortune.
Scarcely one was left with the estate which he had purchased or inherited, and
their lands passed to far-sighted new owners who had taken advantage of their
necessities to acquire vast tracts for small loans. This obtains even in these
so-called advanced days.

   In Santa Barbara in the eighties, the Californian still rode his fiery steed,
and dashed down the main street as if riding a steeple chase, with young America
not far behind. Graceful ladies, riding side-saddle, galloped fearlessly along;
phaetons, English dog-carts, elegant carriages, buck-boards, omnibuses, and
country wagons of various makes and in all states of repair, conveying all sorts
of people, drawn by well and ill-bred horses of all degrees, filed past and made
life most interesting for the tourist of those days who was fortunate enough to
have made a point of including Santa Barbara in his itinerary.

   At that time Santa Barbara was 85 miles from the nearest Railroad station,
Newhall, on the Southern Pacific.

The Mule Car

   An incident typical of the go-as-you-please days, when tomorrow was more in
demand than today, is that of a still active member of the Commercial Club, who
arrived here a very sick man in 1886.

   He embarked on the mule car expecting to land at the Arlington Hotel, paid
his nickel to the driver-conductor, and off they started up State Street. After
going about half a block, the car stopped and the mules were unhitched, and the
pasesnger [sic] after waiting some little time, got off the car to investigate.
Finding the driver about to start off with the mules, he stopped him and
enquired when the car would proceed on its journey, and was told "In an hour or
two, as the mules had to be shod." Asking why he had collected the fare, when he
knew he was not going on, and threatening a report to the management, the
conductor said: "Well, stranger, I need the nickel, and if you have any report
to make you might as well make it right now; I'm President and General Manager
of this 'ere mule-car, so there you are."

   The owner of the mule-car was Bud McFale who is now in the furniture line in
Reno, Nevada.

   The sick man long ago recovered his health, and is now in the pink of
condition, and a member of the School Board.

Advent of Southern Pacific Railroad

   The railroad movement started in 1868 by the incorporation of the "Santa
Barbara Branch of the Southern Pacific Railroad," with some thirty citizens of
Santa Barbara-as incorporators, who proposed to build a road to connect with the
Southern Pacific at Tulare, and received a grant of land from Congress. Due to
the fact that no road was constructed, no patents for this grant were issued,
and for the next two years there was much discussion on the subject, without
effect.

   In the early seventies, shortly after the completion of the Central and Union
Pacific roads, various schemes for other trans-continental railroads were
promoted. Two companies, the Atlantic and Pacific, and the Texas and Pacific,
were organized, and there was much agitation as to which of these would have its
terminus at Santa Barbara, but nothing came of it.

   Then a proposal was advanced for a road from Ventura through Santa Barbara to
San Luis Obispo, and an effort made to have the Legislature authorize an
election which had for its object the issue of bonds to finance the project, but
without success.

   Finally, the disappointed railroad advocates proposed to build a road from
Santa Barbara to connect with the Southern Pacific at Newhall, and while this
was the most reasonable proposition yet advanced, it never got beyond the
talking stage until the Southern Pacific Company itself constructed the road in
1887 and connected Santa Barbara with the rest of the world by rail.

   The Boom Days of 1874 and 1887

   Projects for railroad building were not the only excitement in Santa Barbara
during the 'seventies; a real estate boom, probably the first of its kind on the
Pacific Coast, developed in the early years of that decade, and for a time
exorbitant prices were paid for land.

   The immediate causes of this were the publication of several books on the
beauties of California and an advertising campaign carried on by the Rev. J. A.
Johnson, owner of the "Press", who not only filled his paper with information as
to the climate and resources of Santa Barbara and sent copies to all parts of
America, but also delivered illustrated lectures in the cities of the east on
the same subject.

   Also, the prospect of being the terminus of a trans-continental railway made
Santa Barbara real estate look very attractive to those with money for
speculation, and soon a great influx of people took place, every steamer from
San Francisco being crowded. It then became so difficult for the newcomers to
obtain lodging that frequently men had to walk the streets during the night,
private houses were opened, and temporary beds spread on the floors.

   Naturally the price of real estate began to soar as the volume of travel
increased. City blocks that in 1870 were a drug in the market at $100 apiece,
readily sold for $5,000 or even more. Gone were the days of land at twenty-five
cents an acre; $100 was a more common figure.

   Then, in consequence of the increased population, began a building boom, and
many substantial structures, among them the old Arlington Hotel, and a number of
business blocks and fine private residences, indicated a degree of energy and
enterprise remarkable in a community that in 1870 consisted of less than three
thousand people, two-thirds of whom were Spanish-Californian.

   However, highly colored descriptions of productive soils and magnificent
climate will not feed the hungry, and furnish work for the unemployed, and soon
the departing steamer took away as many as the arriving steamer brought. The
boom gradually died, and during the year 1876-7 when but four and a half inches
of rain fell on the land, there was a very marked drop in prices, not only in
city lots but of farm lands as well.

   In spite of the "boom" the number of inhabitants in Santa Barbara only
increased seventeen per cent between 1870 and 1880, and it was not until 1885
that a distinctly upward tendency was observed.

   When the Southern Pacific railroad came to Santa Barbara in 1887, the old
"boom" was revived, and that of 1874 faded into insignificance beside the raise
in real estate values that now took place. Lots purchased today were sold at a
greatly increased price tomorrow, and many grew suddenly rich by fortunate deals
in property. The most staid and conservative citizens caught the fever of
speculation, •and nothing was heard but talk of "lots" and "sub-divisions."
Blocks in the suburbs of four and a half acres, without streets, water, or
light, sold as high as $30,000 or more, and $50 per foot frontage was a common
price on unimproved streets; also, much farm land was subdivided into city lots,
and sold to speculators, who were eager to unload on someone else at an advance.

   The apex of the "boom" was reached on August 17th, 1887, when the first train
arrived in Santa Barbara. The occasion was declared a general holiday, and many
festivities took place.

   The increased prosperity expected to come from the inauguration of a railroad
service did not put in appearance, and early in September came a lull in real
estate and many big options were forfeited. A short time later when the railroad
company had finished the line a few miles west of the city and the hope of
connection with San Francisco vanished, the "boom" was dead. The wrecking of the
mushroom fortunes left many in a sad plight, and few were as well off as when
the orgy of speculation began.

   The depression lasted for about ten years, and only in the latter 'nineties
was there any demand for real estate. The long delay in connecting Santa Barbara
with San Francisco by rail caused the former to become a rather sleepy old town,
but when in 1901, this was done, many improvements followed, and many fine
residences were built, both in the city and at Montecito.

   In 1906, at the time of the San Francisco earthquake and fire, houses were
being built in Santa Barbara at the rate of one a day, but the calamity so
disrupted all enterprise on the Pacific Coast that Santa Barbara suffered with
the rest. Many San Francisco capitalists who had interests here, lost so much in
the fire that they were unable to carry out their plans, and the high wages paid
workmen in the efforts made to rebuild the stricken city, drew men from this
part of the country, and construction for a time was practically at a standstill.

   About 1908 some improvement in conditions was manifest, and real estate
values became firmer. A little later improvements such as the construction of
the San Marcos building, the reorganization of the street railway system, the
building of the Federal Post Office and the erection of the State Normal School,
were carried out, and today there is no speculation in land values, lots being
usually purchased with a view to improvement, and farm lands for use and income.

Origin of Santa Barbara Street Names

   The many uncommon names given to the streets of Santa Barbara no doubt puzzle
the tourist and stranger, but the clue to these lies in the many events of the
past which have been commemorated in this way, and a great deal of the city's
history may be learned by a study of the meaning and derivation of these titles.

   Quinientos, the name of a street near the beach, is the Spanish word for five
hundred, and this street was so named in 1852, when Captain Salisbury Haley made
his survey of Santa Barbara. It appears that when Colonel J. D. Stevenson's
regiment arrived here in 1847, a brass twelve pounder cannon had been placed on
the beach to be forwarded to the fortifications at Monterey, but one night some
of the Californians removed it, either throwing it in the sea, or burying it in
the sand. When search failed to produce it the Californians told the military
authorities that some sailors from the vessel on which it was intended to send
it to Monterey had lost it overboard from the boat on its way from the shore,
but they were not believed, and the municipal officers were ordered to restore
the cannon, or pay for it. As the cannon was not forthcoming Governor Mason
imposed a fine of $500 on Santa Barbara, and each one of the property holders
was ordered to pay a certain portion of this sum, according to his capacity, and
in addition a company of soldiers was sent from Los Angeles to see that the fine
was duly paid. Some, however, of those assessed refused to pay, and property to
the value of their share was seized and sold by auction.

   San Buenaventura, at the northeast of the city, is so named because, although
thirty miles away, it was nearest to the village of that name when the street
was made. Pitos Street was named from the carisos or reeds growing there, from
which flutes (pitos) were made; Punta Gorda, because it ran into a high bank;
Indio Muerto, because an Indian was found dead in the neighborhood; Cacique, the
title given to the Chief of an Indian tribe. Carpinteria, because it was on the
route usually taken in going towards the village of that name, the origin of
which dates back to the time when Portola's expedition coming up the coast,
found near the mouth of Rincon Creek a number of Indians, making canoes,
paddles, and other articles of wood, hence Carpinteria, a wood-working
establishment. Mason St., was named after Governor Mason, who imposed the
above-mentioned fine of $500. Yanonali St., is named after a famous old Chief of
the Santa Barbara Indians. Montecito St., points in the direction of the
beautiful valley of that name. Gutierrez is called after Don Octaviano
Gutierrez, once a member of the City Council. Haley St., was named after
Salisbury Haley, who made the famous "Haley survey." Cota Street, Ortega Street,
and De la Guerra Street were named after famous Spanish Californian families.
Canon Perdido is Spanish for hidden canyon, and when the street was made, such a
canyon existed in line with its northeastern end.

   Carrillo St., was named in honor of Don Joaquin Carrillo, first District
Judge after the organization of Santa Barbara County. This is one of the eighty
foot streets provided by the Haley Survey, the other being State Street.
Figueroa was named after the famous Governor Jose Figueroa. Anapamu was named
after an Indian chief whose power extended from Santa Ynez to San Fernando.
Victoria was named after Governor Manuel Victoria; Sola Street after Governor
Vicente de Sola; Micheltorena St., from Governor Manuel Micheltorena, and
Arrellaga St., from Governor Jose Joaquin de Arrellaga. Valerio St., was named
after a famous Indian robber chief, who with his band lived in a cave in the
Santa Ynez Mountains. Islay was the name given to a fruit which the Santa
Barbara Indians were accustomed to eat. Pedregosa means "stony," and was so
called because the Arroyo Pedregosa or "stony creek" cut through it. Mission
Street, is so called from its proximity to the Mission of Santa Barbara.

   As to the streets running from southeast to northwest across the city:
Salinas St., used to run into a salt pond; Canada used to run into a canada or
ravine. When Soledad received its name, that part of the town was solitary and
uninhabited. Voluntario ran into the hill on which Fremont's army of volunteers
were camped. Aliso was named from the alisos or sycamores growing there. Milpas
St., was at one time the sowing ground of the Indians, "milpa" meaning a sowing
patch. Nopal St., was named from the prickly pear, or Indian fig, which grew
there. Quarantina St., received its name because some vessels were once put in
quarantine at the foot of it. Salsipuedes (Sal si puedes "get out if you can")
at one time crossed several ravines and rough places, rendering traveling very
difficult. Canal, or Channel St., was at one time the first street on that side
going down to the canal or channel of Santa Barbara. Laguna St., ran into the
lake or lagoon which was formed during the rainy season by the backed-up waters
of Mission Creek. Jardinez or Garden St., once ran through several gardens,
among them that belonging to Captain de la Guerra. Santa Barbara St., was, of
course, named from the city itself. Anacapa St., points towards Anacapa Island
in the Santa Barbara Channel; the meaning of this Indian word is mystery.
Chapala St., is named from a Mexican town, from whence some early settlers came
to Santa Barbara. De la Vina, or Vineyard St., was laid out originally through a
vineyard planted in 1802 by Governor Goycochea. Banos or Bath St., was so called
because it leads to the bathing beach. Castillo or Castle St., led to the hill
on which was an old Spanish fort, mounted with cannon. At Rancheria St., there
was once an Indian "rancheria" or settlement. San Pasqual St., commemorates the
battle of San Pasqual between the Californians and Americans in 1846. San Andres
is rather doubtful, some authorities stating that it takes its name from Andres
Pico who commanded the Californians at the above-named battle, and who
subsequently signed the peace treaty with Colonel Fremont, though from whence he
obtained his title of San or Saint, is not clear. Chino St., is supposed to have
derived, its name from the "Rancho del Chino" near which the battle of San
Pasqual was fought. Gillespie St., was named from Captain Gillespie, one of
Fremont's right hand men and prominent in the battles of San Pasqual and San
Gabriel. Robbins St., was named after Captain Thomas Robbins, who came here in
1827, owner of the Las Positas y Calera ranch, now called the "Hope" Ranch.
State Street is, of course, the principal street in Santa Barbara, and is named
for the state of California.


Additional Comments:
Extracted from:

SANTA BARBARA AND MONTECITO
PAST AND PRESENT
By
JOHN R. SOUTHWORTH F. R. G. S.
(1920)



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