Santa Barbara County CA Archives History - Books .....Part V The Channel Islands 1920 ************************************************ Copyright. All rights reserved. http://www.usgwarchives.net/copyright.htm http://www.usgwarchives.net/ca/cafiles.htm ************************************************ File contributed for use in USGenWeb Archives by: Joy Fisher sdgenweb@yahoo.com October 4, 2006, 3:09 am Book Title: Santa Barbara And Montecito Past And Present PART V. The Channel Islands THE islands of the Santa Barbara Channel are famous the world over for their scenic beauty and wonderful climate, being visited annually by pleasure seekers from every land, who seek diversion in hunting and fishing. Fish of various kinds are found everywhere, and the big game fish, taken with rod and reel, made the islands famous years ago. The angling is so remarkable that it is difficult to convince the stranger that it is no joke; yet there is always abundant evidence of its truth. The islands of the group are four in number, San Miguel, often fog-bound, lying farthest west, then Santa Rosa, Santa Cruz, which is finely wooded, and Anacapa. The Spaniards discovered the islands in 1542, and in those days they were all inhabited; that life was easy to maintain is evident by the extraordinary wealth of shell fish, including abalones, which constituted the principal food of the aborigines. All the islands are bathed by the Japanese Gulf Stream, the Black Current, which sweeps up the coast from the south, crosses to Alaska then flows down the California coast It is said by scientists that the presence of this stream is not responsible for the wonderful climate of the Channel Islands, but that this is due to the moderating power of the ocean, but it is at any rate more interesting, if not strictly accurate, to believe that the Black Current gives to the Pacific Coast its mild winters, and a climate that has all the beauty of Southern Europe without its extremes. Santa Rosa and San Miguel derive their names from the Saint whose festival the church commemorated on the day of their discovery. Anacapa, meaning deceptive vision, was the name applied by the Indians to the island. This is rather appropriate, for Anacapa is very changeable in appearance, sometimes standing out as a single peak, then changing to a long table-like plateau, sometimes broken up into arches and columns like the remains of some mighty temple,—all these changes due to the mysterious laws of light refraction in an air charged with mist. Santa Cruz was originally called La Gente Barbada by Cabrillo, and is said to have received its new name in the following manner:—When the padres first visited the island, a large crucifix was forgotten when they left. The boats were putting off from shore when a number of natives appeared, making signs to the missionaries to return. When they did so, they found one of the Indians carrying the crucifix they had left, and treating it with great reverence; in token of this, Padre Gomez, who was in charge of the party, renamed the island "Santa Cruz," meaning Holy Cross. According to Professor H. L. Burton, the Channel Islands have the same enviable reputation as the Emerald Isle—no snakes—and a small red fox which leaves hen roosts alone, surely a fox to be preserved if only for his skin. The Channel Islands, especially Santa Cruz, are treasure houses for botanists, as here are found many plants peculiar to the mountains that seem to rise from the sea, and many more that are indigenous only to the islands. When the east is in the icy grip of winter, and a large part of the continent is enduring gales, frost, ice and snow, the Channel Islands are veritable gardens of the sea. No fairer picture can be imagined than Santa Cruz in midwinter as one floats along the. blue sea; then to land, and climb the rugged hills, and look across to Santa Barbara in the distance. At such times the angler may wish he were a botanist, that he might take in all the beauties of the plant life of these islands. Although at first sight sometimes the islands appear barren, treeless and without verdure, when the rain comes, the rocky slopes are transformed into green glades. Even on forsaken San Nicholas, which is farther offshore than the Santa Barbara group, charming flowers grow, fighting the fierce winds that threaten to end their existence. The person who supposes that fishing is the sole attraction of the islands, loses the essence of their charm in summer. To enter fully into enjoyment of their beauties, one should leave the haunts of men and wander off on a voyage of discovery, seeking out the unknown spots. Due to their unusual climate, the islands have plants in bloom every month in the year. The first rains come in October or November, and in a short time the brown ground is tinted with green; this lasts perhaps until April or May, when the green grass turns to hay and the land takes on deep brown tints, and new flowers bloom. All this time the chaparral or brush never fades, so the island and canyons are always green in sheltered places, and always attractive whether in green or brown. The winters on the islands are delightful, and the summers are practically perfect. There is no rain between May and November, no storms, and the days and nights are almost invariably cooler than any seaside resort on the Atlantic Coast between Nova Scotia and Florida. A few hot days come now and then, as this is not a real Paradise, but taking the summer as a whole, the islands have no equal for absolute comfort anywhere. San Miguel lies to the west of the Santa Barbara group, three miles from Santa Rosa, and is so near Point Concepcion that it is more exposed to winds than the others, and is a dangerous place for shipping. It is just over seven miles long, east and west, and about two miles wide, the land rising in two peaks in the centre, these peaks being just over eight hundred feet high. It has few beaches; its shores are bold and rocky, and at the west end, when the wind blows hard, there are many sand dunes. There are no trees, and but few bushes of any kind, the chief verdure being long coarse grass. After the rains wild flowers appear, and it may be assumed that many years ago San Miguel may have been as well wooded as the rest of the islands, but is now being blown into the sea. The devastating winds are causing rivers of sand to flow into the harbor, and upon these rivers tobogganing and sliding can be enjoyed as upon snow. As San Miguel is approached from Santa Rosa, the east end is seen to be a cliff about forty feet high, known as Cardwell Point, from which a reef reaches out for about half a mile. About two and one-half miles northwest from here is Cuyler's Harbor where Cabrillo is said to lie. Many attempts have been made to find his remains and give him suitable honor as the discoverer of California, but so far without result. There is landing for small boats at various places, but the island abounds in rocks, small islands and shoals, and should be approached carefully, especially in rough weather. On it are the same kind of mounds found on the other islands, showing that in the early days the place was the home of many Indians who lived well and easily on the vast fish supply of the surrounding waters. San Miguel will impress the visitor by the many little rocky islands spread about it, often needle-like peaks rising out of deep water, the home of the eagle or osprey, and where no doubt many a ship has met its doom. Santa Rosa, one of the most attractive of the Santa Barbara Islands, has been the scene of many a romance. In 1834 it was granted by the Spanish Crown to Don Carlos and Don Jose Carrillo, members of the famous Santa Barbara family. Don Carlos had two daughters, famed for their beauty and grace; J. P. Jones, U. S. Consul to the Hawaiian Islands, met one at the Casa Carrillo at Santa Barbara, and married her, while the other sister married Captain A. B. Thompson. The dowry of both brides from Don Carlos was joint ownership in the island of Santa Rosa, practically forty-five thousand acres, seven or eight miles long and ten in width, well watered, made up of mountain, valley and mesa, with bountiful fisheries. A princely gift, even in those early days. The two families owned the island jointly, and for years carried on a profitable business in sheep-raising. The island ranch house was the scene of many gay entertainments, especially at shearing time when parties were taken over and the event celebrated with music and dancing. In time disagreements arose, and after some litigation, Santa Rosa passed into other hands, and is still used as a great stock ranch. Santa Rosa is a delightful place to visit for an outing, and a month could be spent in exploring all the interesting points. Like the rest of the islands, Nicalque, as it was called, had a large native population, and its great sand dunes were formerly strewn with relics of the past. Utensils of bone, wood, stone, and clay, and many articles made from abalone shells—the meat from which formed their chief diet—have been gathered and sent to the great museums. One of the aboriginal towns appears to have been three miles in length. A large quantity of Indian implements and relics of various kinds have been exhumed, and many tons forwarded to the Smithsonian Institute at Washington. From the highest peak, Monte Negro, 1565 feet, a wonderful view is obtained. To the north are the Santa Ynez mountains, and the other islands are seen east and west. The shores are precipitous cliffs, abounding in great caves and little bays and sand-dunes often two hundred feet high, always changing in the strong wind. The extreme northern end of the island is called Carrington Point; for nearly a mile it faces the sea with a bold front at least four hundred feet high, a notable sight from a long distance. Nearly the entire island is surrounded by kelp which is a refuge for innumerable fishes. The island is famed for its fishing, and the rocky shores abound in shellfish. The animals found are similar to those on the other islands; there are extensive sea-lion rookeries, and sea-birds of many kinds make their homes here. On Santa Rosa the verdure is similar to that on the neighboring shore—no large trees, but moist canyons filled with many interesting plants. After the rains grass covers the open spots, and in a short time flowers are in bloom, and the island resembles a garden. The island is well-watered; in one of its charming little valleys a tiny river ripples musically on its way to the sea. Santa Cruz is twenty-one miles long, extending almost east and west, with an average width of five miles. On the western end a peak rises a little over half a mile, and another at the eastern end to over fifteen hundred feet; on the island are several peaks rising to thirteen, fourteen and fifteen hundred feet, and some to the north to a height of over twenty-four hundred feet. In climate the island may be compared to the European Riviera, and there are here none of the hot winds from Africa and cold ones from the Alps. The eastern end, San Pedro Point, is twenty-one and one-half miles from Santa Barbara and four miles from Anacapa, and the channel between the islands abounds in fish. Santa Cruz Island is densely wooded compared to the rest of the group; owing to the dense fogs, the hills are well covered. Trees have been brought from Italy by property-owners, and there are groves of eucalyptus, pines, and firs, and many fine oaks. On Santa Cruz, as well as on Santa Rosa, there are many luxuriant growths of ferns. A visit should certainly be made to the caves with which Santa Cruz abounds, among them the famous Painted Cave. This cave, more remarkable even than the grotto of Capri, is really beneath the mountains. Passing through the Gothic arch at the entrance, the name is well understood, as the salts have dyed it in a fantastic manner, in brilliant yellows, soft browns, reds, greens, and white. The first room opening from the sea is about sixty feet high, the walls beautifully colored. From this lead other caves, some of which are unexplored. The cave known as Cueva Valdez, toward the east end on the north side is quite as remarkable as the Painted Cave. This is partly on land, and will hold several hundred people. One entrance opens on the little bay, the other on a sandy canyon leading up into the mountains. Almost everywhere on the islands have been found relics of the primitive inhabitants, and no one can look upon the really beautiful objects which have been discovered, beads, weapons, carved cups and musical instruments, without crediting these extinct races with imagination, and as having been exponents of the principle that beauty is an essential to happy life. In explorations made during the summer of 1916 by Professor Outhwaite, anthropoligist of the University of California, he found over 1,000 mounds. One near Prisoner's Harbor is 150 feet wide, 300 feet long, and some 18 feet in depth. He intimates that at least one thousand persons lived on the island from the evidence found in the mounds. The canyons in Santa Cruz are beautiful, filled with beds of ferns and giant brakes, banked with verdure, with the music of running water and the song of birds. Nowhere is there more of a contrast of verdure in winter and spring, and barren desolation the rest of the year, as at Santa Cruz. One may leave the fruit-laden valley, climb the hills, and look down on drear sand-dunes and on rocks broken by the sea. It may not be generally known that there are colonies of wild pigs on the islands of Santa Cruz and Santa Rosa, and the hunting of these provides exciting sport. These pigs, some of which attain great size, being adapted to their life in the steep canyons and on the mountain slopes are very active, and hunters on foot have to exercise care, as the charge of a wild boar down a mountain slope might have serious consequences for the person charged. How these pigs came into the islands is not known, but it is likely that they are descendents of hogs brought there decades ago by the Spaniards. The Island of Anacapa, the smallest of the Santa Barbara group, is the most easterly, and is not over eleven miles from the mainland at the nearest point. To all intents and purposes it is one island, but when approached, it mysteriously divides itself into three or more; doubtless the divisions have been eaten in by the insatiable tooth of the sea. The island forming the east end is the lowest, about a mile long and a quarter of a mile wide, with an altitude of about two hundred feet. The middle island or link in the Anacapa chain is nearly three hundred and twenty feet high, about a mile and a half long, and a quarter of a mile wide. The largest island lies to the west. Its peak, nearly a thousand feet high, can be seen for several miles on a clear day; the others can also be sighted from afar, and are so peculiar in appearance that they resemble a mirage. The island, like many others, rises out of deep water and is surrounded by kelp, which affords refuge for innumerable tuna, bonito and bass. The coast is a maze of strange caves eaten into the rock; one of great size is supposed to have been used by the pirates of old, and until late years was the refuge of seals. Many of the caves are beneath or just on the surface, and are constantly hissing like living things, spouting water in great jets with the tremendous force of compressed air. There are several anchorages, and a small boat can, with care, land almost anywhere. To the eye the island is arid, but all the pools and crevices are filled with animal life, and beautiful anemones line the rocks. There are also colonies of sea-birds, the royal tern, cormorant and brown pelican breeding in large numbers. Anacapa was no doubt thrown up by some upheaval of the earth's crust; that it had a population long ago is apparent, as deposits of ancient shells and relics have been found there; now, it is no doubt an island in the last stages, fighting for its life against the ever-increasing ravages of the sea. : FI N I S : Additional Comments: Additional Comments: Extracted from: SANTA BARBARA AND MONTECITO PAST AND PRESENT By JOHN R. SOUTHWORTH F. R. G. S. (1920) File at: http://files.usgwarchives.net/ca/santabarbara/history/1920/santabar/partvcha460nms.txt This file has been created by a form at http://www.genrecords.net/cafiles/ File size: 16.5 Kb