Santa Clara County CA Archives History - Books .....Chapter XIX 1922
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Book Title: History Of Santa Clara County

CHAPTER XIX.

The Story of Alum Rock, San Jose's Beautiful Reservation of One Thousand
Acres-Judge Richards' Description of Its Beauties and Attractions- The Claim of
J. O. Stratton.

  The following beautiful description of one of San Jose's greatest assets is
from the pen of that artist in words, Judge John E. Richards. It was written
several years ago for the board of park commissioners, a civic body that went
out of existence when the new charter of 1916 went into effect.

  "The major portion of what is now Alum Rock Park was originally a part of the
public lands to which San Jose became entitled by virtue of its pueblo origin
under the old Spanish regime. By an ordinance of King Philip II of Spain, each
pueblo, upon its establishment, was entitled to four leagues of land. This law
was in effect when the pueblo of San Jose de Guadalupe was founded in 1777. Its
terms were not, however, taken advantage of until the pueblo had passed from the
old dominion into American control. It then laid claim to its pueblo rights and
these were accorded to it under an Act of Congress providing for the settlement
of land claims in California, passed in 1851. The allotment and survey of these
pueblo lands under the act extended the eastern line thereof to the summit of
the first range of mountains which form the eastern boundary of the Santa Clara
Valley, and thus included the tract of land which now comprises Alum Rock Park.

  "That the canyon which embraces the Park contained valuable mineral and
medicinal springs and that nature had there been lavish in her display of
picturesque landscapes, in enchanting vistas of a mountain landscape and in the
variety, beauty and luxuriance of tree and plant life, was early known to
pioneer settlers in the Santa Clara Valley. The desire and attempt of private
persons to acquire this favored spot awakened a determined effort in the
direction of its appropriation for public uses, which led to its official survey
in 1866, and to the definite reservation of about 400 acres therein as a public
park, by an Act of the California Legislature passed in 1872. By another
Legislative act of the same year a board of commissioners was created for the
control of the park, and for the construction of a highway into it from the City
of San Jose. The beautiful highway which now bears the name of Alum Rock Avenue
was laid out and constructed by this first board of park commissioners, which
was composed of Gen. Henry M. Naglee, Edward McLaughlin and Dr. A. J. Spencer;
and to these and other of our public-spirited citizens who thus early persisted
in making the park available for the use and enjoyment of the people, a lasting
debt of public gratitude is due.

  "The original survey of the park gives its area as about 400 acres. To this
was added in 1872 a donation of several acres, including 'Buena Vista,' a point
of grand outlook, lying just south of the park proper, by Gen. Giles A. Smith.
Cyrus Jones and Lewis A. Hicks, three liberal-minded citizens, who then owned a
large tract of adjoining lands. About fifty-five acres more have been added by
subsequent purchases in order to control the streams and springs which
constitute its water supply. The present area of the park is about 460 acres and
the distance from San Jose to its center is seven miles. Two excellent highways
and also an electric railway, with cars leaving the park and San Jose every half
hour, connect the city with the park. The rails are now on the ground for the
construction of a thoroughly up-to-date broad gauge, rapid service railroad into
the park by way of Berryessa.

  "Alum Rock Park derives its name from the striking monolith which stands about
the center of the park at a point where Alum Rock Avenue reaches the creek in
its descent into the canyon. Rugged and scarred by its volcanic origin and
chemical constituents, it rises a sheer 200 feet above the stream. Double
sulphates of aluminum and sodium enter largely into its composition and furnish
the residuum of alum dust found along its sides and in its crevices and from the
presence of which it derives its name. Around the base and sides of the rock
issue several mineral springs strongly impregnated with salt and other chemical
properties. One of these pours its clear, cold waters into a stone basin just
east of the rock. It is labeled 'Salt Condiment' and is said by physicians to
possess excellent tonic and curative properties for those dyspeptically
inclined. The original Indian name of the creek and canon was 'Shestuc' Later
the Spanish settlers named the stream 'Aguaje,' which means a 'watering place
for cattle.' A portion of the creek, out in the valley and between San Jose and
Milpitas became known in Mission days as 'Penetencia Creek' from the fact that
the pious padres of Santa Clara Mission and the Mission of San Jose were wont to
make penitential pilgrimages at stated seasons, to a grove of oaks which
bordered the stream at that point and the name 'Penetencia' came thus to be
erroneously applied by the early American occupants to the entire stream. The
lands occupied by the park were also formerly known as 'The City Reservation,'
but the appellation, 'Alum Rock,' has supplanted these early names and become
the fixed and official designation of the park, creek and canon.

  "Nature has arranged the topography of the park in three divisions, each
possessing its own scenic attractions and each adapted to a particular use. The
first of these embraces that portion of its area lying below Alum Rock and
extending to the mouth of the canyon. This, by virtue of its level spaces and
the picturesque meandering of its rivulet forms the ample and natural camping
grounds of the park. Here gather annually an increasing number of lovers of
outdoor life to pitch their tents beneath the shady oaks and sycamores along the
winding stream; to enjoy the perfect climate of the park and to drink and bathe
in its healthful and refreshing waters. The three chief natural features of this
portion of the park are Eagle Rock, the Meteor and Inspiration Point. Eagle Rock
is that bold and lofty escarpment which rises abruptly many hundred feet above
the level floor of the park and forms a portion of its northern boundary. For
many years successive families of eagles made their home among its crags and
could be seen daily sweeping their majestic circles above Eagle Rock. From this
lofty outlook thirty cities, towns and- villages encircling the Bay of San
Francisco and dotting the Santa Clara Valley may, upon any clear day, be
discerned. Another natural curiosity of this park is the meteor. This immense
black boulder of manganese stands half buried in the hillside a short way above
the entrance to the park. Tradition will have it that this is a real aerolite
which fell to earth within remembered time, but science insists that tradition
is wrong in this regard and the oldest inhabitant declares that the meteor has
been there from his earliest recollection. Which ever is right there can be no
doubt that the meteor is a most interesting natural curiosity, which every
visitor to the park should see.

  "Overlooking this portion of the park also rises the wooded height which aptly
bears the name of 'Inspiration Point.' From the kiosk upon its summit the whole
central portion of the park is visible and the view of its varied beauty and of
the bay and the valley beyond, is indeed grand and inspiring. A byway which
winds in and out among the oaks of the southern hillside leads to this elevation
and the lover of nature who follows it to the summit will be fully repaid.

  "The next and most important section of the park is that lying above Alum Rock
and up to and including the baths and developed springs. The chief improvements
of the park in the way of buildings, lawns, lake, driveways, deer paddocks,
restaurant, gardens, bath houses and other facilities for the conservation and
use of the mineral waters, are within this area, the cultivated portion of which
contains about twenty-five acres. Here are the aviaries, where all sorts of
birds, from the stately peacock to the pretty California canary, furnish endless
enjoyment to children. Here also are the deer paddocks, where several species of
these shy and graceful creatures may be seen. Across the way a big, ample and
comfortable den in the mountain side is the home of a great, good-natured brown
bear, while from the nooks of an enclosed sycamore some large gray squirrels and
a family of chipmunks peer and chatter at whoever will offer them nuts to crack
or hide for their winter store. A vine-embowered restaurant, with its wide and
shaded porches invites to refreshment; and yonder the children's playground with
all its accessories, and the dancing pavilion, resound through all the summer,
with merry laughter and the rhythm of dancing feet. There are no 'keep off the
grass' signs upon the lawns of Alum Rock Park and the one request which the
commissioners make of the public is that they will pluck no flowers.

  "The baths and offices are grouped near the mineral springs; and while not yet
as elaborate in architectural or permanent in form as might be desired, the tub
and plunge baths are capable of ministering to the comfort of a considerable
number of visitors daily. The time will come, and that probably soon, when the
people of San Jose will awaken to the real value of the park and especially of
its mineral springs as features of public attraction worthy of world-wide fame,
and will expend sufficient money in their improvement and development to put
them on a par with other resorts of far less varied excellence to which many
thousands of the world's seekers after health, rest and pleasure annually find
their way.

  "While the scenic attractions of Alum Rock Park are surpassing, its chief
element of use and value consists in its mineral springs. No other place in
California, or hardly elsewhere, possesses within a like area, such a variety of
pleasing and healthful chemical waters. In the immediate vicinity of the park
center and within a few hundred feet of the depot there are eighteen developed
mineral springs besides a large number of other springs not yet developed and
analyzed. An analysis of several springs, made some years ago by William
Ireland, state mineralogist, shows the prevailing presence of soda> white
sulphur, black sulphur and iron in the composition of their waters. He says:
'Sulphates are practically absent from these springs, which are highly charged
with sulphuretted hydrogen. The absence of any notable quantities of carbonate
of lime and comparative abundance of sulphuretted hydrogen give more than
ordinary value to these waters from a medical standpoint.' Both hot and cold
springs are to be found issuing in close proximity to each other. The soda
springs are especially agreeable to the palate, while the sulphur springs are
capable of furnishing an abundance of water for the tub and plunge baths. The
park commission is proceeding as rapidly as possible with the development of
these springs and their inclosure in artistic and substantial drinking founts
composed of native sandstone, of which the park has an inexhaustible supply.

  "Travelers from all parts of the world, who have visited the park, agree in
the statement that the most famous and popular resorts of Europe have not the
equal of these mineral springs in number and in variety and pleasing and
health-giving properties of their waters; all that is needed is their
development to give them and the beautiful park, which contains them, world-wide
fame and patronage.

  "Just above the springs the visitor enters the picnickers' paradise. A
Japanese tea garden stands invitingly at its entrance, and beyond the canyon
widens sufficiently to provide a secluded little vale covered with spreading
oaks, alders, maples and sycamores through which the creek makes its rippling
way, and among which may be seen on every pleasant day, parties of picnickers
enjoying their luncheon or reclining in shady nooks along the whispering stream.
Beyond the picnic grounds a winding path follows the creek to its forks, about a
quarter of a mile above the springs; and thence up either branch of the divided
rivulet one may wander along shady and romantic trails to 'The Falls'.

  "These beautiful cascades may be found a little way up either fork of the
creek and will amply repay the effort to reach them. Tumbling down over
moss-covered rocks into deep, fern-embowered pools, they present artistic
visions of nature in her most entrancing moods. The park extends some distance
beyond The Falls, but only the persistent climber or the occasional disciple of
Walton will venture to follow the stream beyond The Falls and up into the wilder
fastnesses of the canyon to their source.

  "Aside from the aviaries and animal enclosures and from the area of cultivated
gardens and grounds, Alum Rock Park is the abiding place of a considerable
variety of wild birds and animals and displays a great luxuriance of native
trees, plants and flowers. The dainty California canary, the cheery linnet, the
shy wood-thrush and the bustling little wren inhabit every bower, while the
quail's piping note or rapid whirr, and the yellowhammer's loud, clear call, are
frequently heard among the wooded hills. The loiterer along quiet bypaths often
hears the scramble of a startled coon or sees the graceful form of a silver fox
outlined against the green hillsides, or even catches a glimpse of a wild deer
gliding through the undergrowth; while the camper or picnicker can strike up
friendship any hour with whole families of brown squirrels with which the canyon
abounds and which through long immunity have lost their fear of man and will
come and frisk around the feet of children or even eat from out their hands.

  "The flora of the park is also of great and, fact, of almost infinite variety.
Practically all of the trees, shrubbery and flowers, which are distinctively
Californian, flourish here. During spring and summer, the California poppy, the
golden rod,- the yellow buttercup and the mariposa lily glorify its banks and
brown uplands, while within the canyon's shaded dells bright Indian pinks,
fragrant Solomon's seal, dainty bluebells, tall, wild tulips, lusty lupins, the
blue and scarlet columbine, the delicate and aromatic shooting star and a
hundred other varieties of wild flowers, abound. All winter the toyon bushes and
the madrone trees fling the glory of their red clusters of berries along the
hills and stream where the abundant brown bulbs of the buckeye tell of a
springtime of fragrant blooming. Thus at every season of the year the park is
beautiful.

  "The foregoing sketch gives but glimpses of the attractions of Alum Rock Park.
It must be seen to be appreciated and those who once visit it for even a hasty
hour, carry away impressions of its variety and beauty which remain with them a
pleasing memory forever.

" 'The quaint madrone, the laurel trees 
And countless shrubs that cover 
The mountain sides; the soft, warm air 
The blue sky bending over;
Make it a spot, when weary-worn, 
You seek with loved companion, 
And find the gods of rest and peace 
Dwell in this matchless canyon.'"

  Since the above sketch by Judge Richards was written the park has undergone
many artistic changes and improvements strictly up-to-date. More land was
acquired until now the park comprises about 1000 acres. The broad gauge railroad
over a newly constructed road now enters the canyon, while automobiles, provided
with proper parking grounds, come by the thousands every week. Eleven years ago
the park commission began to carry out a system of permanent improvements. The
tea garden was removed and a first-class cafe has taken its place. Instead of
two roads to the park in the old days there are now three, the third leaving the
main road at the summit and half-circling the park along a beautiful winding way
high up in the hills to the heart of the park. A new bath house has been
constructed at a cost of $78,000. The cafe cost $4500. The springs have been
encased with cement walls and the creek has been walled up to protect the park
from the occasional winter floods. More improvements are contemplated. Since the
adoption of San Jose's new charter in 1916, the park has been under the control
of the city engineer, C. B. Goodwin.

  An interesting story concerning the park was furnished in the experiences of
J. O. Stratton. For many years he was the proprietor and manager of a hotel in
the park. This hotel had been built by Woolsey Shaw, who in the late fifties had
acquired by preemption and purchase over 700 acres of what was then called the
Alum Rock ranch. This tract extended some distance beyond the tract afterwards
claimed by the city of San Jose. While Shaw was in possession of large portions
of the park (then called the City Reservation) suit against him was brought by
the city under the claim that about 450 acres held by Shaw was part of the
pueblo lands belonging to the city. Before the suit ended Stratton had bought
from Shaw that section of the Alum Rock ranch that took in the hotel, bath
houses and several outbuildings. All three improvements had been made by Shaw
shortly after he had entered into possession of the land. The suit was decided
in favor of the city and immediately thereafter Shaw and Stratton were
dispossessed. This was in the '70s. While the suit was pending Stratton offered
to give up the land he had bought from Shaw if the city would pay him $3000 for
the improvements. The petition was referred to the Alum Rock Commissioners, and
after the court decision they presented a report awarding Stratton $1000, the
actual value of the lumber purchased for the erection of the buildings. Stratton
accepted the award, but when he asked the council to confirm the commissioners'
report, he met with a refusal. The council claimed that it had no jurisdiction.
In other words it could not deal with matters of equity. Stratton admitted that
he had no legal claim for reimbursement but thought it no more than just that
the city should pay him for his improvements, first because the city was then
using them and secondly because he had bought from Shaw in good faith, believing
that Shaw had lawful title to the lands. Year after year Stratton presented his
claim for reimbursement and year after year the council refused to grant it. At
last Stratton gave up in despair. He died many years ago and his heirs have
never made any attempt to have the decision of the council reversed.


Additional Comments:
Extracted from:

HISTORY OF SANTA CLARA COUNTY CALIFORNIA
WITH
Biographical Sketches
OF
The Leading Men and Women of the County Who Have Been Identified With Its Growth
and Development From the Early Days to the Present

HISTORY BY
EUGENE T. SAWYER

ILLUSTRATED COMPLETE IN ONE VOLUME

HISTORIC RECORD COMPANY
LOS ANGELES, CALIFORNIA 
1922


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