Sonoma County CA Archives History - Books .....City Of Petaluma 1877 ************************************************ Copyright. All rights reserved. http://www.usgwarchives.net/copyright.htm http://www.usgwarchives.net/ca/cafiles.htm ************************************************ File contributed for use in USGenWeb Archives by: Joy Fisher sdgenweb@yahoo.com February 24, 2006, 10:17 pm Book Title: Historical And Descriptive Sketch Of Sonoma County, California CITY OF PETALUMA. We have heard it asserted that the name Petaluma came from the Indian vernacular, meaning "duck ponds," and also that it was a compound word, signifying "little hills." There would have been a local fitness in the last name, and by a change of one or two letters only in Petaluma, we have words meaning little hills. The close observer cannot have failed to notice the low mounds in many parts of the valley, of uniform shape and size. These hillocks were much more noticeable before the occupation and cultivation of the soil than they are now, and when the first adventurers found their way into the beautiful valley the mounds must have formed a peculiar and marked feature of the landscape—hence the name, valley of the "little hills." By a change of letters the words lost their identity, but not the sound of the original. These peculiar mounds may be seen in their natural shape and position in great numbers on the Cotate plain, the surface not having been disturbed by cultivation. We do not assert that they are of artificial origin, or that the name of the valley was derived from them, but only that it is a plausible theory for the derivation of the name. The solution of the question we leave to the research of the philologist or the curiosity of the antiquarian. The city of Petaluma is situated on Petaluma creek, at the head of navigation. It is thirty-seven miles northwest of San Francisco, with which it is connected by sailing vessels, by steamer, and by the San Francisco and North Pacific Railroad. Trains pass through the town every day, going south, connecting at Donahue with the steamer for San Francisco. Two trains also pass the city every day, going north to the terminus of the road, at Cloverdale. The time between Petaluma and San Francisco is about two hours, which will be reduced to one hour and a half during this year, by extending the railroad and shortening the trip across the bay. Petaluma creek is an estuary or arm of the bay, with water sufficient at high tide to float vessels of considerable size at the wharf of the city. A mile and a half above the town the plain rises to the level of high water, and both marsh and creek terminate. The great Central valley of Sonoma, and the Bodega and coast country, lies within easy reach of Petaluma, where its produce finds a home market, or may, at the option of the owner, be shipped by steamer direct, by sailing vessel or by railroad—thus all danger of a monopoly of transportation is barred. The town is built on undulating ground; all the important streets are well graded, graveled and curbed, having gutters, sewers and open drains. Many of the business houses are imposing structures, with iron fronts in the latest style of modern city architecture. There are in and around the town handsome residences, with spacious and highly-cultivated grounds, but even more attractive are the many homes of well-to-do mechanics and laboring men, half hidden in flowers, indicating that the people are thifty and prosperous through all gradations of society. The hills upon which the town is partly built afford a view of the opposite plain and range of mountains, including within its far-reaching scope the distant crest of St. Helena, and still further beyond, the conical and shapely summit of Geyser peak—to the southward the creek may be traced winding through the green marsh, sometimes doubling back upon its course, making in a distance of a eight miles a direct progress of but two. This tortuous water-course gives a picturesque beauty to the scence [sic] in that direction—especially, as is often the case, if half a dozen sailing craft, with white wings spread, appear in view—in the undulating air they seem to float above the level of the marsh; following their crooked course, they pass each other, to and fro, or circle around like sea-birds on the wing. Petaluma is one of the most healthful towns in the State; it lies within the influence of the daily sea-breeze, and bilious or malarious fevers are unknown. We have glanced hurridly at the city and its surroundings, and propose now to give a sketch of its early history and present status, more in detail. We have mentioned the trip of Padre Altimira, in June, 1823, from San Rafael to Sonoma, on a mission-founding expedition. He came upon the west side of the creek, passing over or near the site of the present city of Petaluma, turned the " point of creeks," as he called it, probably at the two ponds on the westerly corner of the farm of F. W. Lougee, and crossed the plain opposite the town to the site of the "old Adobe House." This was the first land expedition of the California padres to the country north of San Rafael. The mission of Sonoma was founded in July, 1823, but no settlement was made in Petaluma valley. After the secularization of the mission property, General Vallejo received a grant of all the land lying between Sonoma creek on the east, the waters of the bay on the south, and Petaluma creek on the west. That portion of the city known as East Petaluma stands on this tract. General Vallejo occupied the Petaluma ranch from 1836, and built the first house in the valley. The land on the west side of the creek was claimed under a Mexican grant by Juan Miranda, who settled there in 1838, and built a small house about two miles from the present city of Petaluma. This was the first house or settlement on the west side of the creek. Over these rich plains, through wild oats that might be tied over the back of a horse, roamed herds of fat, sleek Spanish cattle and manadas of Mustang mares—their right disputed only by bands of elk and antelope, which equaled, if they did not surpass them, in numbers. The first settler, other than those mentioned or their retainers, was Dr. A. F. Heyerman, who, early in 1850, had a log-cabin on what was afterwards called the Rogers place, near Petaluma. Dr. Heyerman, under some pretext or other, set up a claim to the tract of land which he then occupied. In October, 1850, John Lockwood came up the creek with one or two others in a whale-boat, attracted by reports of the abundance of game. They camped under the oaks on the bank of the creek just above the town, on what is now known as the Bell place. Lockwood and party hunted for the San Francisco market, making regular trips to the city in the Spark, as they called their whale-boat. The next to come were Linus and Wiatt; Lockwood and Wiatt are still residents of Petaluma. Baylis and Flogdell, well known pioneers, came a week after Linus and Wiatt, and all camped near the same place, and hunted or purchased game, which they took to the San Francisco market. They gave Petaluma its first start as a shipping point. A good sized deer or antelope brought twenty dollars, the hind-quarter of a fat elk forty dollars, quail nine dollars a dozen, and ducks from ten to twelve dollars a dozen. Major Singley, the present agent of the San Francisco and North Pacific Railroad at Petaluma, was the next arrival. Two small trading posts were started near Lockwood camp; one by Baylis & Flogdell, the other by Linus & Wiatt. The first house in the city limits proper was a warehouse built by James McReynolds, of Analy township, and his partner James Hudspeth, for storing potatoes. It stood on the bank of the creek, just below the bridge, at the foot of Washington street. The warehouse was filled that fall with potatoes, and Mr. Hudspeth cut and baled on the flat above town, one hundred tons of hay, which he shipped to Sacramento. These were the first large shipments of produce from Sonoma county to San Francisco via Petaluma. Soon after this, a man named Keller took up a claim which included the town site, and built a house on the creek, above the bridge, where the stone warehouse now stands. On the 3d day January, 1852, the town was first surveyed by J. A. Brewster for Mr. Keller. The survey commenced at a point on Petaluma creek, between Prospect and Oak streets, running thence west to the westerly line of Liberty street, near Kent, then southerly along Liberty street to A, then on the northerly line of A and a continuation of that line northeasterly to Petaluma creek, including about forty acres. Tom Lock wood and Major Singley carried the chain for this survey. The first merchants of Petaluma were Kent & Smith; they opened a first-rate country store, in 1852. It stood on the east side of Main street, opposite the American Hotel lot, where Ross' photograph gallery now stands. The late F. H. (Joe bought in the business, and the firm changed to Kent, Smith & Coe. The first families who came to the town were old man Douglas and the Hathaways. The first hotel was started by Robert Douglas and a man named Adams. It was a board shanty, and stood on the lot now occupied by the American hotel. The first school was kept by A. B. Bowers, and the school-house stood on the site of the present brick one. A. A. Guerny was probably the first Protestant preacher in this valley. He seems to have officiated at most of the weddings of that day, to have preached, lectured or delivered a Fourth of July oration, as the time served—a sort of clerical Bohemian, if we may use the expression without disrespect to the cloth. We know not where Rev. Mr. Guernsy now is, but we wish him well where-ever he may be, for he has left his foot-print on the pioneer history of Sonoma county. The first postmaster in Petaluma county, was W. D. Kent. He was succeeded by Dr. Brown, and Dr. Brown by S. X. Terrell. The mail was carried once a week, on horse-back, from Benicia via Sonoma, Santa Rosa, Miller & Walker's store, near Sebastapol, to Petaluma, and from there to San Rafael, —a round-about way of receiving late news from a city but thirty-five miles distant. The first justice of the peace was M. G. Lewis. J. Chandler, Judge Jackson Temple and Judge J. B. Southard were the first lawyers in the town. The pioneers Zartman & Fritch started business in January, 1852, with James F. Reed, as blacksmith. They were told they would not make enough to get nails for shoes, but from the start they did a good business. The first general excitement in the infant city was caused by an enterprise which had for its object the starting of a rival town at a point on the east side of the creek, a mile and a-half below in an air line, but a much greater distance by water, owing to the many crooks and bends in the creek. Major H. P. Hentzleman and Major Lewis got up this scheme. They purchased a tract on the east side of the creek of General Vallejo, where there was a good landing, and laid off a town which they called Petaluma City. It was known in vulgar vernacular as "New Town." Lewis went to San Francisco and sold out his interest to Colonel J. B. Huie, on condition that a steamer of certain size could get up to the proposed site of the New Town. The steamer Red Jacket, afterwards Kate Hayes, came up in November, 1852, under command of Captain Van Pelt. The same boat made trips at intervals that fall, and it was given out that the New Town was the head of steamboat navigation. The Petaluma boys were not scared at trifles; they went down to New Town one night when the boat lay there, and using all their powers of persuasion, induced the captain to steam up and see if he could not get up to the original town. The venture was a success; this stroke of policy killed New Town; it languished for a year or more but finally gave up the ghost, and, as the cars speed by, it is hard for the old resident to locate the site of the once rival of the city of Petaluma. The first regular steamer was the Sioc, put on by Colonel J. B. Huie to run to New Town. Ex-Sheriff Latapie was captain, and once part-owner of this boat. The name was changed to the Reindeer. The E. Corning was the first boat that ran regularly to Petaluma. Fare was six dollars to San Francisco, and the trip occupied nearly all day—quite a contrast to the present time, when the trip to Petaluma is made in two hours, and that will soon be reduced to one hour and a-half. The late Capt. Charles M. Baxter took command of the Corning in 1856, and, for many years after, ran the elegant steamer Petaluma, built by Charles Minturn, expressly for this route. From the beginning of 1853 up to 1855 the town of Petaluma grew rapidly; the great valleys north and south of it settled up with an industrious population, and every acre of land brought under cultivation was a benefit to the town, which had now become the general shipping point for the produce of all Sonoma and Mendocino counties as far north as the country was occupied. With so rich a district to support it, Petaluma soon took rank as one of the most flourishing agricultural towns in the State Its capital increased as rapidly as its commerce extended. It was, at a very early day, and still continues to be, the largest shipping point for dairy products of all the towns in California. The first newspaper, the Petaluma Journal, was issued on the 18th of August, 1855. The names of several merchants still residing in the town appeared in its advertising columns. In 1855 and 1856 the growth of the city was very rapid; in the former year the vote was 481, and in the latter it had increased to 801. In July, 1857, an accurate census was taken by John S. Van Doren, and we are enabled to give the population of the town then, included within an area of a mile square, commencing at the junction of Keller and D streets. White males 802; white females, 502; colored males, 23; colored females, 8; China-men, 3. Total, 1,338. The town of Petaluma was incorporated at the session of the legislature of 1857-8, and the first municipal election was held on the 19th of April, 1858. The taxable property of the city for the years named was as follows: 1858 $496,285 1867 925,215 1877 965,451 The municipal tax this year is eighty cents on each one hundred dollars valuation of property. The money raised by the city tax has been in the main well and judiciously expended. The excellent condition of the streets and the perfect sewerage may be cited in proof of this assertion. More than this, the city and township have expended $60,000 in improving the roads and highways leading to the surrounding country. No more judicious investment could have been made. The approaches to the town from every direction are in perfect order winter and summer, and along these main arteries trade flows into the city and through all its business channels. The result of this healthy circulation is visible in the growth and improvement of the city. Another attractive feature of the place is the highly improved small farms by which it is surrounded. There are a number of these places on the low foot-hills just west of the plain, which may be seen from the cars. The well-tilled orchards and vineyards, comfortable barns and neat homesteads afford the best possible evidence that not only the city, but the country that surrounds it, is prosperous. Much of the hill-land in the neighborhood of Petaluma, once considered valuable only for the wood which grew upon it, has proven, now that the wood is cut, extremely fertile, and commands the highest price when put upon the market. There are also many very handsomely improved farms on the plain opposite the town, extending back from the creek to the foot-hills on the east, and, in fact, to the top of the range, which is rather an elevated plateau than a ridge, as it appears in the distance. Additional Comments: Extracted from: HISTORICAL AND DESCRIPTIVE SKETCH OF SONOMA COUNTY, CALIFORNIA, BY ROBERT A. THOMPSON, EDITOR OF "THE SONOMA DEMOCRAT." PHILADELPHIA: L. H. EVERTS & CO. 1877. File at: http://files.usgwarchives.net/ca/sonoma/history/1877/historic/cityofpe336nms.txt This file has been created by a form at http://www.genrecords.net/cafiles/ File size: 16.4 Kb