Sonoma County CA Archives History - Books .....Bodega Township 1880
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Book Title: History Of Sonoma County

BODEGA.

   GEOGRAPHY.—Bodega township is situated on the western side of Sonoma county,
its western boundary being the Pacific ocean. It is bounded as follows: On the
north by Ocean and Redwood townships, on the east by Analy township, on the
south by Marin county, and on the west by the Pacific ocean. Like all the
townships in the county, the boundary lines are very irregular, following as
they do the sinuosities of stream and ocean shore. There are no navigable
streams in the township, but on the south boundary of it is the stream known as
the "Estero Americano," which is deep enough to float small vessels for some
distance up at high tide.

   Topography.—The general surface of this township is very uneven, but there
are no mountains in it. It is composed of rolling, broad-sweeping hills, with
wide and fertile valleys- lying between. But few of the hills are so steep that
they cannot be cultivated with ease, while the most of them are grand,
long-reaching undulations. The valleys are not so extensive as in some of the
other townships, but are more numerous.

   Soil.—The soil in this township is mostly of a sandy loam; in fact, there is
scarcely any clay in it at all, except on now and then a hill-top. This soil is
very fertile, and produces cereals and vegetables in the greatest abundance.
Fruits and vines also thrive well, and yield their full share of wealth to the
industrious husbandman. In the valleys of course the soil is much more
productive than on the hill-sides, still there is nothing to complain of on
them. The soil is by far the most evenly dispersed in all sections of this
township than in any other in the county.

   Climate.—The climate of this township is very similar to all the sections
immediately adjacent to the coast. During the Summer months the sea-breeze
sweeps over it ad lib., as there are no mountains to break its force. In the
valleys leading directly up from the coast this wind sometimes assumes the
magnitude of a small tornado. The result of this is that the climate in these
valleys is temperate and cool. This wind is sometimes heavily laden with fogs
which bank up in the heads of the valleys and overshadow everything, from the
later hours of the afternoon till it is dispelled by the rays of the mid-day sun
upon its near approach to the zenith. Although these fogs are oftentimes very
dank and disagreeable, yet they are wonderful agents for good, acting almost as
effectually upon all growing vegetation as a shower of rain or an irrigating.
The result of this is seen most potently upon the redwood trees. It is in this
township that the redwood belt begins; and it is also observable that those
trees at the beginning of the belt, do not grow on the south sides of the hills,
but rather on the north sides, and in those ravines which pierce a ridge upon
its north side, in the heads of which ravines the fogs bank up the most dense.
However, we do not wish to convey the idea that there are no bright and
beautiful days in this most charming and fertile section of the county. On the
other hand, there are days and days the most bright and beautiful, such days as
only a California climate can produce, with their azure skies and fleecy clouds.
In the later Autumn, when the fierce blast of the trade winds is heard shrieking
no more amid the swaying boughs of the towering redwoods; when the sunlight is
filtered down upon the world through a radiant film of amber haze; then, indeed,
is it a lovely place, and its climate such to be remembered to the end of one's
days. In the Winter season it is mild and temperate. The winds do not blow so
strongly, and come from another direction. It is really the most excellent time
of the year as far as climate is concerned.

   Products.—This township is decidedly agricultural in its products, yet they
are varied, ranging through all the grades of rich semi-tropical country.
Vegetables, and especially potatoes, seem to be the best adapted to the soil. In
the warm sandy loam of this section this tube grows in the most profuse
luxuriance, thriving even to the very hill-tops with no other irrigation than
the natural moisture of the earth, sequent upon the Winter's rains, and the
dense fogs which come up from the near ocean. On every hill-top, hill-side and
valley may be seen great fields of potatoes. Wheat, oats, barley and corn thrive
moderately well here, though the fogs are so heavy that the grain does not ripen
very readily. The business of dairying is carried on somewhat extensively in
some parts of the township. The pasture is very fine at all seasons of the year,
being kept fresh and green by the fogs. As the soil is becoming somewhat worn in
the prolonged seige of potato raising, and a change is becoming absolutely
necessary, the most of the farmers drift into the dairy business. Lumber is also
one of the chief products of the township; as stated above, the redwood belt has
its begining in this township. It was in this township that the first steam
saw-mill on the Pacific Coast was put in operation in 1843, and since that time
the making of lumber has been more or less vigorously prosecuted as an industry.
Even in the early days when all the products of the township had to be brought
to the port, often over rough roads, for shipment to San Francisco, the lumber
industry throve, and some of those early mills are standing and doing some good
work to-day, on the same sites they occupied a quarter of a century ago. These
woods also yield a goodly supply of fence-posts, railroad ties, cord-wood, etc.
Now that the metropolitan market is reached in a few hours by rail, the
industries of this character have increased many fold, and are fast becoming the
prominent features of the business enterprises of this section of the country. 

   Early Settlement.—To Bodega belongs the honor of having the first permanent
settlement of Europeans north of the bay of San Francisco, and within the limits
of the State of California; while the entrance of the beautiful little bay
bearing that name was made by Europeans at least one year previous to the
location of the mission at Yerba Buena, now San Francisco. It is stated that in
the year 1775, a distinguished Spanish navigator by the name of Lieutenant Juan
Francisco de la Bodega y Quadra, in a naval vessel called the "Sonora," entered
this bay, and after carefully exploring it gave it the name of Bodega, in honor
of himself. From that time, however, until the year 1811, a period of thirty-six
years, we do not find the bay was ever visited at all, but, however, it is to be
presumed that it was visited occasionally by the vessel which chanced to pass
that way. In January, 1811, there arrived in the quiet waters of the lovely
little bay a strange looking craft bearing a burden of human freight. They were
men with unkempt hair and shaggy beards, and with frames of iron, well inured to
a life of excessive toil and exposure to the rigors of an inclement climate. To
them, as they entered this beautiful cove on that mid-winter's day, the
surrounding country must have seemed to be a veritable Paradise. Accustomed as
they had been all their lives to see naught but the deep snow lying over all the
face of the earth at this season of the year, the sight of the vernal hills
basking in the bright sunshine must have been the most lovely view which ever
greeted their gaze. These brawny strangers were Russians, who had come from
Sitka for the purpose of establishing a military post, and a headquarters for a
band of fur hunters; they also proposed to farm quite extensively, using their
products for supplying their fur-hunting colonies in Sitka. At this time there
were twenty Russians and fifty Kodiac Indians, under the leadership of Alexander
Kuskoff, a man with a wooden leg, and to whom, on this account, the native
Californians applied the soubriquet of "Pie de Palo." To Bodega bay the
newcomers gave the name of "Romanzoff," and the stream now known as Russian
river they called "Slavianka." Knowing full well that they had no just title or
claim to the land, they framed a pretext for landing there, by stating that they
had been refused a supply of fresh water at Yerba Buena. To strengthen this
claim they asserted that they had purchased all the land lying adjacent to the
bay from the Aborigines, and this claim was ultimately extended until it covered
all the land lying between Point Reyes and Point Arena, and for a distance of
three leagues inland. We will hear more of this Russian claim to the Spanish
domain farther on. As a matter of fact the Russians could not purchase any of
this land from the Indians, for at that time the entire country of the Alta
Californias belonged to Spain, and General M. G. Vallejo has truly remarked of
them that as they "came without invitation, and occupied the land without the
permission of the owners, they may well be called the first 'squatters' of
California." The Russians, however, went to work with a will, whether they had
any right to the soil or not. They proceeded into the interior of the country,
about six miles from the bay, and there established a settlement. Houses were
built, fields fenced and agricultural pursuits vigorously engaged in by them. It
was not long however before they found that there was a strong opposition to
them, and that it would be necessary to build a fort for their protection if
they would keep possession of their newly acquired domain. With this object in
view they started in search of a place most suitable for the location of their
stockade. About thirty miles to the northward, on the coast, they found the
desired location. This point was within the present limits of Salt Point township.

   As soon as the first crop had matured, and was ready for shipment, it became
necessary for them to have a warehouse at the bay where their vessels could be
loaded. Accordingly a building for this purpose was erected • on the south side
of the point of land extending into the sea and forming the northern shore of
the bay, near the extreme westerly end of the headland. This building was eighty
by one hundred feet in dimensions. It was probably used extensively at the same
time for the storage of furs and peltry, for it must be borne in mind that one
great object of the establishment of a settlement at this point was to make it a
headquarters for their hunters. This building was very strong and durable, and
would probably be standing at the present writing but for the fact that a land
slide swept the most of it into the bay some years ago. They also had another
house at the bay near this warehouse, but what it was used for is not now known,
it was used by the American settlers in later years as a sort of a dwelling
house and hotel, and it is from a mention of this fact that we know of its
existence at all. We will now speak more extensively of the Russian settlement
in the interior. This was situated just north of the present town of Bodega
Corners, and the Capt. Smith adobe ranch house stands directly upon the site of
the Russian buildings.

   It is impossible now to give the exact original number of these houses, owing
to the fact that they are all demolished, not a vestige remaining of them to
tell the story of their existence. There were^ however, certainly quite a number
of them at one time, if the statements of the very earliest settlers in that
section are to be credited. These houses were small and rough, the boards being
hewn from redwood logs. They were each strong enough for a bastion, and were
doubtless built with the double purpose of shelter from the storms, and
protection from the enemy in view. They were nearly square, and about twelve
feet in dimensions. Some of them, presumably those earliest constructed, were
made of hewn logs, well mortised together at the corners. It does not appear
that they ever farmed so extensively here as at Fort Ross. It is quite probable
that this part of the country, being most excellently adapted to grazing and
dairying purposes, was devoted almost exclusively to this business. An extract
from the journal of Captain John Hall, who visited Bodega bay in June, 1822,
would seem to sustain this idea. He says that the Russian Commander paid him a
visit while he was in Bodega bay, and brought on board with him two fine fat
sheep, a large tub of butter, and some milk. He also says that vegetables were
plentiful in their season.

  We now pass on to the year 1841. During all this time the Russians had been
able to hold possession of all the country they claimed, and had used it pretty
much to suit their own wants and conveniences. In the sketch of Salt Point
township will be found a full and complete detailed narration of the Russian
occupancy of that section, which, owing to the fact that Fort Ross was their
head-quarters, is recorded there. Hence, we refer the reader to that sketch for
further detailed information on this most interesting historical topic.

   We will now take up the settlement of this township by the Americans, as
distinguished from the Russians. The first settlers of this kind of which there
are any records were: James Dawson, James Black, and Edward Manuel McIntosh.
These three men came to California probably as early as 1830 with Captain Juan
B. R. Cooper, brother-in-law of General M. G. Vallejo, as sailors on board of
his vessel. Once here, and getting into the free and careless habits of the
natives, they preferred to remain on shore. We find that Dawson and McIntosh
applied for citizenship under the Mexican Government as early as the year 1833.
General Vallejo says, that upon assuming the position of commandant of the
military of California in 1835; he was ordered to extend his settlements as far
in the direction of Fort Ross as possible, and to thus encroach upon the Russian
territory and usurp their claims. For this purpose he chose the three hardy
pioneers mentioned above, and promised to give them each a large grant of land
provided they would go and settle right upon the border limits of the Russian
claim. The gentlemen readily consented, as they were sure they could live on
amicable terms with the Russians. Black settled upon what is now known as the
Canada de la Jonive Rancho, while Dawson and McIntosh settled upon the Estero
Americano Rancho. In due course of time it became necessary to have proper
papers made out by the higher authorities confirming this title which General
Vallejo had given these men to their land. Black and McIntosh went together to
Monterey for this purpose, Dawson remaining at home to look after the property
interests of both ranchos. Black got his papers made out to the Jonive Rancho
all right, there being no occasion for any crookedness in them, but not so with
McIntosh. In having his papers made out he purposely left out the name of his
partner, James Dawson.

   Lest some should say that it is rather unjust to charge him thus boldly with
fraud, we would say that we have the best of evidence to substantiate the
assertion. Some may say that grants were not made to partners, but that was only
true upon the sea shore. All grants fronting on the sea were given to one man
only, and he was charged with certain special duties, especially in time of war.
But more of this when we come to consider the Rancho de Herman. When Dawson
discovered the rascally trick which had been perpetrated by his partner,
McIntosh, he naturally enough flew into a rage and at once proceeded to
administer an appropriate chastisement to the offender. Having appeased his
wrath to his entire, satisfaction, he took a saw, and severing their common
house in twain moved his half of it entirely off the rancho. This part of that
remarkable house is still standing and in use, forming a part of the residence
of F. G. Blume at Freestone. It was strongly and roughly constructed, and has
certainly proved very durable. The joists are round, and about five inches in
diameter. The outside boards were truly rustic, being riven or split from
redwood logs. We will follow the fortunes of these pioneers to the end now, as
in the settlement of other sections of the township they do not appear as
prominent figures. Jas. Black, a few years later, exchanged the Jonive rancho
with Hon. Jasper O'Farrell for a rancho in Marin county, where he lived honored
and respected by all who knew him. McIntosh remained on his rancho, the Estero
Americano, for some years, but finally entered into an agreement with Jasper
O'Farrell which was as follows: McIntosh granted, sold and transferred all his
right, title and claim to the said rancho, and to all the stock, improvements
and whatever else there might be appertaining to the said rancho, for and in
consideration of an annual rental of eight hundred dollars, during the natural
life of McIntosh. O'Farrell failed to pay this annual rental, and a lawsuit grew
out of the matter. It was eventually compromised by O'Farrell paying McIntosh
the sum of five thousand dollars, and McIntosh relinquishing all claims to the
rancho and to the annual rental. McIntosh then went to Marin county and made his
home with his old ship-mate, James Black, till his death, which occurred some
ten years since. As soon as Dawson had moved his half of the house off the
Estero Americano Rancho he made application for a grant to the tract of land on
which he had located his house. The application for this grant was made December
27, 1837. It was called the Canada de Pogolome, from an Indian village which was
located upon the same tract. In June, 1840, James Dawson was united in marriage
with Donna Maria Antonia Cazares, who was the daughter of a dragoon officer
under the old Spanish regime. Senorita Cazares was only fourteen years of age at
the time of this union. He continued to reside on his rancho with his wife until
his death, which occurred in October, 1843. He died without any issue, and his
wife became the sole heir to the vast and fertile rancho.

   It is probable that to Dawson belongs the honor of the first attempt to make
lumber with a saw of any kind in Sonoma county. He dug a pit, and placing the
log over it, he stood upon it and used a long rip saw. As early as 1834 he had
enough lumber on hand, sawed in this manner, to build a house. This lumber was
disposed of to General Vallejo, and he used it in the construction of a house in
Sonoma. The pits used by Dawson are still to be seen. And thus is closed the
parts which these three pioneers performed in the settlement of this township.
They have long since passed from the scenes with which their names nave been the
most intimately connected, and even now tradition is getting somewhat cloudy
concerning many important facts. All honor to whom honor is due, and to them
certainly a meed of praise should be vouchsafed by the pen of the historian who
records and preserves their memories and their deeds.

   We will now turn our attention to the incidents which occurred on the old
Russian claim from the year 1841 to 1843. General John A. Sutter purchased the
entire Russian claims for the sum of thirty thousand dollars in the year 1840.
He sent agents—major domos—from New Helvetia, now Sacramento, to take possession
of this property as soon as it was relinquished by the Russians. The stock and
many of the personal effects were moved from the Russian settlements to New
Helvetia, still a major domo was maintained by Sutter at Bodega during all the
time mentioned above. The last man who held this position at Bodega was at that
time known as Don Juan Bidwell, now General John Bidwell of Chico. Bidweil was
Sutter's private Secreary [sic] and book-keeper, and a man in whom Sutter had
the utmost confidence.

   BODEGA PORT.—This was a shipping place at the head of the bay of that name.
It was here that the first faint attempt at founding a town in this township
occurred. As was stated above, the Russians had erected two buildings on this
bay, but they were near to the mouth of the bay, and hard of access to those who
came to the port from the interior, hence settlers naturally built their stone
houses at a point the most accessible. *Captain Smith owned a small schooner
called the "Fayaway," which plied regularly between the port and San Francisco,
in the early days. We do not now know how long this was continued by him, or
what became of the vessel. He used it principally in shipping his lumber to
market. In the year 1850, two men named John Keyes and------Noble, put in a crop
of potatoes. This was the first crop of the kind which had ever been grown in
that section. They were merely squatters, not having leased the land of Captain
Smith. They raised the crop on the headland known as Bodega Point. After the
crop was matured they had to get a vessel to take it to market. A small schooner
of about fifteen tons burden was purchased and run by John Keyes. It was called
the "Spray." Keyes continued to run this vessel until the spring of 1857. The
fare on this schooner was eight dollars to San Francisco and fiftten [sic]
dollars for return. Sometime during this year one Captain Tibbey began to run a
schooner which he called the "Mary" in this trade. This schooner was built in
Australia. The principal exports from the port at this time were lumber,
shingles and potatoes. Cattle and sheep were sometimes shipped also.

*For Captain Smith's arrival and location at Botega, sec page 51, and following,
of this work. 


   A schooner called the "Sheriff," in 1853, Captain Tibbey, master, went ashore
near Cape Mendocino, and all on board perished. In the Fall of 1850, or Spring
of 1851, a large schooner called the "Caroline," with a valuable cargo on board,
bound for Trinidad, went ashore on the sand-spit which projects into Bodega bay.
The vessel and cargo were lost, but the officers and sailors escaped. Captain
Andrew Rutherford ran a propeller between the port and San Francisco a few trips
about 1858, but could not make it pay, and hence discontinued the trips. From
1852 to 1860 there were several vessels plying in this trade, there being often
as many as six at one time making weekly trips to the city and return. The first
man to rent and of Captain Smith was Edward Cheeney. He leased two hundred acres
from him during the winter of 1850-51, on the Point. This land had been
cultivated previously, first by the Russians, and during the previous season by
Keyes and Noble. The terms of this lease were that Cheeney was to pay two
dollars per acre for rent, payable when the crop was sold; Smith would allow"
five cents a rail for fencing the land. Smith sometimes rented land on shares,
furnishing everything to the renter and taking half the crop. This was really
the better way for him to rent his land, as the half of the crop would net from
fifty to one hundred dollars per acre. If a man were poor and appeared to be
honest, Captain Smith would advance him the necssary amount of money to put in
his crop, without interest. It is said that many of his renters took advantage
of his liberal terms, and rewarded his kindness by disposing of the crop and
leaving the Captain's claims unsettled. This land in that early day was very
productive. Mr. Cheeney raised sixty bushels of wheat and one hundred bushels of
oats to the acre, and one renter had an acre of potatoes which brought him five
hundred dollars. February 20, 1851, Stephen L. and James E. Fowler, two
brothers, and Messrs. Loper and Hedges arrived at Bodega. We have at hand a
diary which was kept by Stephen L. Fowler at that time. To it we are indebted
for a number of facts contained in this sketch, and we will here, once for all,
give him the credit for all the extracts we may use from his diary. The four men
mentioned above formed a company, and styled themselves the "Suffolk Company,"
for the purpose of farming. They located about two and a half miles from the
port, across a creek (from Captain Smith's house), and on a tract which would
not need to be fenced. This was quite an object. This company planted quite an
extensive crop this year, and the yield was very good both in quantity and
price. The seed they used for their garden came from the Colonies (Australia). A
box for which they paid fifteen dollars, contained six quarts of peas, two of
beans, four ounces of onion seed, five ounces of cabbage seed of different
kinds, celery, raddish, broccoli, mustard, spinage, cucumber, beets, carrots,
capsicum, pepper-grass, lettuce, all in small parcels; also one-half pound each
of three different kinds of turnip seeds. All these seeds were planted, and all
throve well in the rich soil of that section. As high as eight cents a pound was
paid by them for seed potatoes that spring. It rained until very late into the
season that year. They mowed wild oats for hay. This hay was easily cured, and
served the purpose well. They raised quite a crop of barley. It was harvested
and threshed in the month of July. The following description of the modus
operandi of threshing the grain is copied from the diary mentioned above: "A
corral is constructed of poles driven in the ground in a circle. Several
cart-loads of barley are then drawn in and placed within the corral. Forty or
fifty horses are then turned into the corral, and driven around at a furious
rate of speed. As soon as the grain is tramped out of the upper layer the straw
is thrown out, and the process repeated until the bottom is reached. The grain
is then removed, and carefully cleaned by hand."

   During the year 1851 several new-comers put in an appearance, and the opening
of the Spring of 1852 saw the greater portion of the land near the Port taken up
by renters. Of these but few remain in that section now, and their names have
passed into oblivion. In fact, no name but a nick-name was known for many of
them. Of those mentioned above, Mr. Cheeney still resides near this Port, a
genial old gentleman, with whom it is a pleasure to meet and talk of the early
days. James E. Fowler is now a retired merchant, living a life of leisure upon a
handsome competence gained in this township. His beautiful home is located at
Valley Ford. He, too, is a most estimable and pleasant gentleman.

   The first warehouse at the Port, at the head of the bay, was built by Capt.
Smith, in 1848. This was a small building, and wa3 erected rather for the
purposes of a freight-house than a store-house. It was only sixteen by twenty.
The next warehouse was built in October, 1851, by the Suffolk Company. It was
twenty-four by eighteen, with ten feet studding. This company also constructed a
boat at this time in which to ferry their potatoes over the creek mentioned
above. This creek has its debouchure just north of the point where the landing
was at the head of the bay. This boat was a sort of a lighter, thirty-six feet
long by ten feet wide, and one foot deep. In 1852, Samuel Potter built a
warehouse thirty by sixty feet in dimensions. During the same year Stephen
Smith, a nephew of the captain, and Mr. Cheeney erected a warehouse forty by
twenty-five. This building is still standing. The first store was built at this
point in 1853 by Donald McDonald. It was a small affair, with its foundation
extending into the bay, causing the whole building to stand over water .at high
tide. It was reached by a platform extending from the main land. The building is
still standing, but in a most dilapidated condition. In the same year or the
next, Jasper O'Farrell built a warehouse fifty by one hundred. In 1858, James
Stumpf erected a warehouse which was sixty by eighty; and during the same year
Tyler Curtis constructed one, which was forty by one hundred and fifty. In 1852,
Captain Smith erected the buildings for a hotel and bowling alley. In 1860,
Tyler Curtis erected the last building ever put up there. It was a warehouse,
thirty by eighty. After this the glory of Bodega port departed forever. It began
to go into decay, and at the present time there is no more forlorn and
dilapidated-looking place in the State. Nearly all the buildings are gone, one
warehouse and a. part of another remain of all the warehouses which have been
built there. The hotel and bowling alley still stand, but where, on a Sunday, at
least, one hundred men were wont to congregate and pitch fifty dollar slugs at a
peg in front of the bar-room door, scarcely a stranger's face is seen once in a
fortnight. The few old buildings are all going to ruin, where was once the
bustle and jostle of the great shipping business which loaded a large schooner
every day, now the sight of a vessel is something to be wondered at. Bodega bay
is a small harbor, perhaps five miles in diameter. On the north side of it there
extends into the ocean a point of land containing, perhaps, one thousand acres.
An old Indian legend is extant to the effect that this point or headland was at
one time an island.-This idea is substantiated by the fact that that portion of
the point next the main land is composed of great sand dunes, while the body of
it is fine arable soil. The Indians also say, that at one time there was a
powerful tribe who made their headquarters on that island, numbering two
thousand and six hundred. The old Indian graveyard is still to be seen. It is
said by many that the name of Bodega came" to be applied to this bay in this
wise: Bodega is a Spanish word, and signifies storehouse or warehouse, and after
the Russians had constructed their large warehouse on the bay the expression
used to designate that locality was, "la bodega de los Russos," which was soon
reduced to La Bodega, and, finally, by the Americans into Bodega.

   There is certainly an air of probability about this version of the naming the
place, and we are rather inclined to believe in this as the origin of the name.
Of course this derivation of the term is not quite so "grandioso " as the one
usually given.

   On the south side of the bay, and dividing it from the ocean is a sand spit
extending nearly across the mouth of the bay. This makes it a completely
land-locked harbor. The point of egress is quite narrow, but there is, or was in
the early times always a good stage of water there. The water used to be very
deep in the entire bay, but now the greater portion of it is bare at low tide.
Vessels were in the habit of coming up to the shore at high water by the side of
the warehouses and taking on one-half of the load. Then they hauled out into
deep water, and the remainder of the cargo was taken out to them in lighters.
Keel vessels of seventy tons, and scow-built vessels of one hundred' tons could
then come into the bay and load with ease, and get away without any trouble.
Some of these old-time lighters, with the windlass by which, and ways on which
they were drawn out of the water for repairs, are still to be seen, but all
vestiges of the pristine glory of the place are fast decaying, and soon nothing
will be known of it more than what is preserved in legend or story.

   Bodega was made a port of entry in 1852. It appears that General Estey had
one Michael Doherty employed as a book-keeper; Doherty was a shrewd enterprising
kind of a man, and on several occasions had displayed his ability much to the
benefit of his employer, and in such a way that his employer felt that he must
do something to repay him. We have been told that General Vallejo could give the
details of some of these transactions, but we have not been able to consult him
on the subject. Be that as it may, Estey exercised his influence for the
establishment of a port of entry at Bodega, and also to have Doherty appointed
as Inspector of the port. This he succeeded in doing, and Doherty held the
position for two years at a salary of ten dollars per diem, for rendering
imaginary service to the United States, as no foreign vessel ever entered the
harbor, or ever had an idea of it.

   Among the many contentions and quarrels which naturally occurred among a
population so cosmopolitan, but one led to fatal consequences, as far as we now
know. A man by the name of Capt. John Campbell had a warehouse leased, which was
the property of Capt. Tibbey, and which was situated near the site of the old
Russian buildings, one of which was occupied by an Italian fisherman. There was
a spring of water close by, and Campbell claimed to own it, and ordered the
Italian not to go to it any more for water. As Campbell had no more right to the
spring than the Italian, of course his orders were disobeyed. Campbell did not
have the courage to murder the Italian himself, so he inveigled a boy by the
name of Alex. Shaw into doing the horrid deed. He promised the boy perfect
immunity from any punishment whatever. It is said that when the full truth of
the matter was made known that Campbell did not dare to come to the port for a
long time, lest he should be pounced upon by an indignant populace, and made to
meet his just doom for concocting the dastardly plan.

   From time to time there has been more or less excitement in the vicinity of
Bodega port in regard to gold. Men have been known to wash out one dollar per
day, although they would not average that. Considerable prospecting has also
been done along the quartz ledges above, and traces of gold have been found. It
is more than likely that gold will never be found in this section. That found
was what is known as "miners' shot," each grain being about the size of a
pin-head, and round. In prospecting the black sand is found in abundance, but
the gold is wanting.

   BODEGA CORNERS.—We will now pass from the Port of Bodega to the town of the
same name. This is situated near the site of the Smith Ranch house, and of
course he was the first settler in that section. We will now give a full sketch
of this grand old pioneer, setting forth such facts as we have been able to
collect from all available reliable sources. We have already given a graphic
description of the inauguration of his saw-mill, and his establishment at this
point. On the 14th day of September, 1844, one year after his arrival here, he
applied for a grant to the Bodega Rancho. This grant was confirmed by the
Deparmental Assembly in April, 1846. The grant embraced eight leagues of land
and contained 35,487 acres. This was granted to him with the provision that he
would maintain upon it a steam saw-mill. The Mexican government was very willing
to comply with his request for a grant of land, for they recognized in him a man
of energy and enterprise, and one who would advance all the material interests
of the country, and they wished to encourage him, and also to entice him to
remain where he was; hence the stipulation that the steam saw-mill should be
maintained. From this time till 1851 everything on the ranch seems to have
pursued the even tenor of its way, with the exception of the year 1846—the year
of the memorable Bear Flag war. Captain Smith had just received a grant from the
Mexican government, and had all his property and social interests most closely
allied with that people, hence it is probable that he did not care to take any
active part in the uprising of the Bear Flag party. It is fair to presume,
however, that his heart was with the brave men who were taking such a gallant
stand for the freedom of the country. It does not appear from any available
records that there was any communication between him and the Bear Flag men, but
when it was announced that war had been declared between the United States and
Mexico, and when the stars and stripes had taken the place of the bear ensign,
and a messenger was sent to his rancho with an American flag and the, to him,
welcome news of the declaration of war, he gladly and earnestly espoused the
cause of his native government, and aided and abetted the American soldiers on
all the occasions which presented themselves. Upon receiving the flag sent to
him from Sonoma, he at once proceeded to the woods and 'selecting a beautiful
strait tree about fifty feet high, he cut it and brought it to the top of an
eminence near his house. He then fashioned a rude figure of a bear with a star
attached to the extremity of its tail. This novel emblem was placed at the top
of the flagstaff, and reared aloft. The stars and stripes were then run to the
top of the staff and unfurled to the breeze for the first time in that section,
amid the rousing huzzas of men and the boom of cannon, for be it known that the
captain had quite an arsenal of his own there, consisting of either four or six
field pieces, all mounted, and a large number of old-fashioned Spanish muskets.
When the flag had reached the top of the staff there was a curious commingling
of the three emblems of liberty, at that time so justly famous, and popular,
viz.: the stars and stripes, the bear, and the lone star. Later, during the
progress of the war, it is said that he sent a "caballada" of sixty horses to
General Fremont, and that his own cannon saw some service in his country's
cause. The honor is at least due to him of raising the first American flag: in
that section. The excavation for the flag-staff was made in the solid rock, and
to-day it stands, bearing proudly aloft its double ensign of the bear and the
lone star. It is getting well worm-eaten, and is tottering under its weight of
years, and will soon be numbered with the things that were. It leans well to the
northward, but cannot fall till broken off, as it is held firmly in the
excavation in the solid rock.

   We now pass on to the year 1851. On the 20th of February of that year Stephen
L. Fowler arrived at Capt. Smith's, and we will quote from his diary. From that
we get a great many glimpses at the private and public life of the captain. M r.
Fowler says: "We walk from Bodega port to Capt. Smith's, a distance of about
five miles. He has a very pretty valley to live in. The most of the buildings
were erected by the Russians. The old captain is very hospitable. He has been
here about eight years. He has quite a great deal of poultry, a number of hogs,
and a great many cattle." He next gives us a glimpse at the domestic economy of
the Smith household: "They have coffee about sunrise, at ten o'clock, breakfast,
and dinner at dark. This is a Spanish custom." He next pays a visit to the mill:
"We walked to the Bodega Steam Saw-mill, where we were kindly treated. We took
dinner, and they showed us through the mill. They put the saw in motion, and
explained what we did not understand. There are a number of buildings near the
mill. The place is called 'Mount Pleasant.' I think it very appropriately named,
as it is a very pleasant place."

   The above name of Mount Pleasant is probably the writer's translation of the
name "Buena Vista," which was applied to a high hill in the neighborhood of the
Smith Ranch, and being a stranger he probably supposed it to apply to the entire
immediate section. He remarks, further on: "Near Captain Smith's there is a
brook where salmon are caught during their season. We saw here a Russian dog,
said to be forty years old. The captain's nephew (Stephen Smith) has charge of
the ranch. The captain is about to start a tannery." On the 23d of June, 1851,
the contract for the woodwork on the adobe house, which now stands there, was
let to Stephen L. Fowler and one of his partners, Mr. Hedges. An extract from
the diary of that date says: "To-day Hedges and myself (S. L. Fowler) rode to
Capt. Smith's, to make arrangements about doing some carpenter work. We
contracted to do the work of an adobe house, 27x70 feet. We have two floors to
lay, ceil it overhead, partitions to run to make six rooms, twelve windows to
case, besides casing doors and hanging them, and putting in and trimming a front
door, and ceiling under the piazza. We are to be boarded and to receive $450 for
the job." While at work on this contract and boarding at the house he gives us
another glimpse at the internal management of the domestic affairs of the
family; also, a bill-of-fare for one day: "We eat four meals a day. At sunrise
we have a most excellent cup of coffee, with bread and butter; at ten o'clock we
have breakfast, which consists of coffee, soup, meat, vegetables, and bread; at
one o'clock we have a lunch of roast beef, bread, etc., and at six o'clock we
have dinner, which consists of about the same as the breakfast, except the
coffee. We can have a cup of tea any time during the evening, and brandy and
water when we wish. We do not eat with the family, as they have much company,
and the table is generally full." On the 5th day of August, 1851, we find the
following entry: "We had a very good dinner to-day, it being Mrs. Smith's
birthday. We had roast turkey and pig, with plenty of vegetables and a good
pudding. To-night the ladies came into the building, and the children danced
several Spanish dances to the music of a guitar. James (E. Fowler) declaimed
'Richard the Third,' and, with singing, etc., we passed the evening very
pleasantly. There were several bottles of wine sent in by the captain and Mrs.
Smith." Being sixteen at the time of her marriage in 1843; she was born August
5, 1827. Two days later, on the 7th, we find the following entry: To-day the
captain has given us the dimensions of the two buildings he wants built for his
tannery. One is twenty-four feet square, and ten feet studding; the other is
twenty-four by fifty feet, and two stories high." For this contract they were to
receive four hundred and fifty dollars. We find that a man by the name of Watson
was the tanner; that he had a birthday, when the boys got a little jolly. It was
doubtless in this tannery that the first real leather was made in Sonoma county
by the American process of tanning. Of course the Russians tanned leather in
their way, and probably made a good article, too. After them, and using their
appliances, came Major Ernest Rufus. Cyrus Alexander, of Alexander valley, is
reputed to have tanned some leather in a crude way. It would therefore seem that
to Capt. Smith belongs the honor of establishing the first successful tannery in
the county. This tannery afterwafds passed into the hands of James Stewart.
After him came a man by the name of Henry Lane. The building was destroyed by
fire in 1868, after doing duty for seventeen years.

   Capt. Stephen Smith was one of nature's noblemen. He was generous to a fault,
large and warm-hearted, kindly disposed, and a man against whom none can say
aught, and those who knew him never tire of sounding his praises. It is said
that all strangers were welcome within his gates, and that he was offended if a
man seemed in haste to leave. It is related of him that a man once came there
sick, and remained two weeks. At the end of that time he was well and ready to
go on his way. It being yet early in the morning, the Captain had not arisen;
the man gave ten dollars to the Captain's son. When the Captain came out of his
room the money was duly handed to him, with an account of whence it came. The
Captain forthwith flew into a rage, and ordered the young man to mount the
fleetest horse on the ranch, overtake the departing stranger, and return his
money to him. His house was a veritable hospital, to which all the afflicted in
the vicinity could come for treatment, without price and without money. Senora
Minungo Torres, the Captain's mother-in-law, was an excellent doctress and
nurse, and it is to her skill and attention that many a man owes his life. She
would undergo any hardship in carrying out her great mission of love, and it was
nothing else than a mission of love with her, as she would never receive any
remuneration for her services, and would work as faithfully with a dying Indian
as with any one of her own nationality.

   A band of Indians, known as the Bodegas, had a "rancheadero" on the banks of
a little stream which lay just west of Captain Smith's house. Mrs. Smith and her
mother, Senora Torres, were very kind to these Indians, and had them fully under
their control. They acted as missionaries to them, and a priest came to the
rancho and baptized them all. Their graveyard was consecrated, and rude wooden
crosses were placed at the heads of the graves. When the rancho passed into the
hands of Tyler Curtis he drove the Indians all away to the reservation. A very
few of them are now left at the reservation near Healdsburg, and they
occasionally pay a visit to the scenes of their childhood and youth. Their
graveyard, which lies in an open field to the south of the adobe house, is fast
being obliterated. The crosses are nearly all broken down, and the mounds are
nearly leveled with the adjacent fields, and very soon, indeed, will all traces
of the existence of this people be swept away by the remorseless hand of man and
time.

   In August, 1855, a tragedy was committed by one of these Indians which, for
cold-blooded and heartless cruelty, can hardly be excelled in all the annals of
crime. One day a vaquero by the name of James Phoenix and an Indian named Demos
came down to Bodega port from the mouth of Russian river, where they were both
engaged in herding stock. While at the port they both drank more or less, but
had no trouble. Upon starting away, Phoenix procured a bottle of whisky. He was
never seen again alive, and it is not known what difficulty arose between them,
but it is said that it was thought at the time that it grew out of some contest
over the bottle of whisky. Be that as it may, the facts of the murder were about
as follows: When they had arrived at the mouth of Salmon creek the Indian
managed to get Phoenix in advance of him in the trail. He then threw his riatta,
and the loop caught Phoenix over. one shoulder and under the other arm. The
Indian wheeled his horse in a flash, and dragged his victim to the ground. He
then put spurs to his horse and dragged the unfortunate man a distance of more
than a mile over the rough and rocky pathway of the mountain coast trail,
dangling at the end of a rope, made fast to the horn of his saddle. He then left
his victim until the next day, when he procured the assistance of another Indian
named Francisco, and conveyed the body to Willow creek gulch, and hid it under a
pile of rock and brush. The two Indians then came down to the "rancheria" and
reported that Demos and Phoenix had gone out the night before to watch for
bears, which were feeding on the carcase of a whale, and that they believed that
Phoenix had been killed by the bears. Immediate search for the body of Phoenix
was instituted; suspicion, however, resting strongly upon the two Indians,
especially Demos. Senora Torres called Francisco into a room, and placing him on
his knees before a crucifix, recited a number of imprecations which would fall
upon him in this world and the next if he did not tell the truth concerning the
murder. The solemnity of the rites, and the religious influence which the woman
had over him, conspired to make him confess the entire transaction. Demos was at
once placed under arrest, and a wagon despatched, with Francisco as a guide, to
convey the corpse to the settlement. When found, the body presented the most
ghastly appearance imaginable. The clothing and flesh were stripped completely
off from several portions of the body. The Indian, Demos, was brought into
Justice Jasper O'Farrell's Court, and had a jury trial. The evidence elicited
did not throw any light upon the causes which induced the Indian to commit the
deed. The jury did not debate long upon the verdict, which was, that he should
be hanged the next day at one o'clock in the afternoon. On the brow of a hill,
near the "rancheria," there was a triangle or tripod frame, which was used for
suspending animals when butchered. It was decided to hang him at this place, and
that Francisco should be his executioner. A grave was dug, and a coffin placed
beside it, within a few feet of the place of execution. At the appointed hour he
was brought to the improvised scaffold and placed on the head of a barrel, with
a rope knotted firmly about his neck. He was then asked if he had anything to
say, to which he replied that he desired to be buried with his face down. He
then looked over the assembled crowd of whites and Indians, and cast a last
wistful glance at the familiar surrounding scenes of his life, then exclaimed:
"Adios todo en el mundo"—farewell to all in the world— and was pushed suddenly
from his perch upon the barrel. The rope was unfortunately too long, and his
toes touched the ground as he fell, whereupon Thos. Murray, Thos. Furlong, and
J. Waddell seized the end, which extended through the pulley, and drew it up
till he swung clear of the ground, when in a short time he was dead, and had, in
a manner, expiated the horrid crime he had committed. There is a sad sequel to
this tragedy. The brother of the victim, upon hearing the tragic and cruel fate
which ended his brother's career, became a raving maniac, and ended his days in
an asylum.

   Captain Smith was at one time very wealthy, having as stated above an eight
league rancho, on which there is reputed to have been fifteen thousand head of
cattle, fifteen thousand head of horses, besides hogs and sheep in large
numbers. His income was at one time princely, but misfortune in one way or
another overtook him, and at the time of his death he had but little left
besides the naked land. It is said that he lost sixty thousand dollars at one
time by some Italians in whose safe he had deposited the money. He lost twenty
thousand dollars by the first fire in San Francisco in 1851, and a large amount
in the second one. He was also somewhat careless about business matters, and it
is said that he once borrowed six hundred dollars of a man at two per cent, per
month, and through carelessness neglected to pay the debt until it amounted to
over live thousand dollars. Captain Smith died in San Francisco in November,
1855, at the ripe old age of seventy-three. His wife and three children survived
him. By will dated August 9, 1854, he bequeathed to his wife a life interest in
one-third of the rancho, and the other two-thirds to his three children, share
and share alike. The widow afterwards married Tyler Curtis, who succeeded in
getting an act of the Legislature passed giving him the right to dispose of the
right and interest of the children in the rancho. He soon let the entire fortune
filter through his fingers, and thus were the children defrauded, and the rancho
passed into other hands.

   The beautiful little town of Bodega Corners is situated near the Smith
homestead. It took its first start in 1853. A man by the name of George
Robinson, went up from Bodega port and opened a saloon at this point that year.
It was a place where three roads met, hence the name of Corners was applied to
it. A man named Hughes soon followed, and built a blacksmith shop. He was soon
joined by another named Bowman and the two built the first hotel in the place,
which was afterwards burned. Donald McDonald had a store at the port, which he
moved to the new town quite early in its existence. The Rositer Bros., also
opened a store about the same time. The old settlers of that vicinity were,
James Watson, Ex-sheriff Saml. Potter, M. Hagler, J. L. Springer, Dr. A. K.
Piggott, Thomas Murray, James Stumpf, and William H. Steward. The town has grown
into a fine village of perhaps three hundred inhabitants. Its business interests
are represented as follows: Two general stores, three hotels, one livery stable,
one meat market, one blacksmith shop, one wagonmaker's shop, two carpenter
shops, two shoe shops, three saloons, two physicians, one millinery store and
two barber shops. The official directory is as follows: Thomas Murray, Justice
of the Peace; C. O. Cazares, Constable; James McCaughey is Postmaster, Wells,
Fargo & Co.'s and Telegraph agents. The postoffice was first established at this
place September 29, 1854, with Stephen Smith as Postmaster. It was then known as
Smith's Ranch. The first school-house in the, town was built in 1866. A. S.
Sanborn was the first teacher. In 1373, the present beautiful structure was
erected for school purposes at a cost of five thousand dollars. There are at
present one hundred and twenty-five census children in the district, and two
teachers are employed. The Presbyterians have a church organization here. This
organization was effected by Rev. A. Fairbairn, October 1, 1865. The original
number of members was nine. It has since been increased, till at present there
are twenty-three. They have a very nice building, erected in 1868.

   The "Bodega War."—The history of this section of Bodega would be incomplete
without a short sketch at least of this grand fiasco of Tyler Curtis. All the
old settlers who were present take great delight in relating its particulars. It
seems that after Curtis came into control at the Bodega rancho, in the year 1858
or 1859, he undertook to oust parties who were farming parcels of it. Many of
these men had rented their land from Captain Smith in his day, and had continued
to pay a rental to the estate. Others had squatted upon different portions of
the rancho, and were endeavoring to hold possession of their claims until such
time as the property would be put upon the market, which event they knew full
well must occur sooner or later. Failing to cause the settlers to leave by
peaceful means and by personal threats of violence, Curtis proceeded to San
Francisco and secured the services of a horde of about forty roughs for the
purpose of waging a war upon them. He purchased arms and ammunition for his
motley gang, and brought them up to Petaluma on the steamer. From there he
marched them ont [sic] to the rancho, a distance of upwards of twenty miles, in
regular soldier style. They arrived at the ranch house some time in the night,
but it had become known that they were coming and what their errand was. Some
Paul Revere, during the silent midnight watches, came from Petaluma and rode to
every settler's house and gave the alarm. By the time the first flush of rosy
dawn had illuminated the eastern sky the town was full of men, armed to the
teeth with rifles and revolvers, with also a couple of small field-pieces, which
happened (?) to be in that vicinity at the time. Sentinels were placed around
the ranch to guard their prisoners, for such indeed they were. In the morning,
as soon as Curtis came out, a deputation of settlers waited upon him and
requested his immediate presence in the village, stating at the same time, that
if he refused, the entire force of settlers would march against his place, and
that not a man would be left alive. Thinking that discretion was the better part
of valor, he reluctantly complied, and accompanied the deputation. Once there,
he was placed upon a goods box in mock deference to his political style of
making stump speeches, and asked to explain why he had brought this crowd of
roughs to his rancho. He explained what he expected to do with the men, and
intimated that he expected to still carry out his original idea. He was then
told that by ten o'clock that morning they would expect him to have his braves
(?) en route for San Francisco, and to see that their order was obeyed a detail
of thirty mounted armed men was sent along with him. He went back to his crowd
of bullies and told them the turn affairs had taken, and they were only too
willing to march back to Petaluma, especially when they saw the crowd of armed
horsemen. And thus ended the fiasco. It cost Curtis over two thousand dollars
for that day's work, and it availed him naught.

   Bodega Lodge, F.& A. M.—Bodega Lodge, No. 213, F. & A. M., was organized
December 17, 1870. The following named gentlemen were charter members: William
H. Manefee, A. S. Patterson, N. R. Shaw, L. S. Goodman, A. S. Perrine H. M.
Barnham, C. C. Robertson, G. N. Sanborn, D. Hakes, M. Kiernan, W. W. Gilham, E.
O. Stratton, William Hamilton, and W. M. Doran. The first officers were: W. H.
Manefee, W. M; A. S. Patterson, S. W; N. R. Shaw. J. W; L. S. Goodman,
Treasurer, and G. N. Sanborn, Secretary. The following gentlemen have filled the
office of Master: W. H. Manefee, A. S. Patterson, and James McCaughey has held
the position for the past six years. The present membership is fifteen. They
have a very small lodge-room at present, but own a fine lot and in the near
future propose to erect a large and commodious hall.

   Buena Vista Lodge, I. O. G. T.—This Lodge, No. 373, was organized March 12,
1870. The meeting was called to order by Miss Emory. The charter members were:
C. L. Farnsworth, Mrs. R. Farnsworth, Mrs. A. Hitchcock, J. W. Wilcox, J.
Carson, W. Fraser, J. J. Stewart, A. E. Fraser, C. Hawkins, Miss M. Carson, Miss
H. Watson, William Fleming, J. Kelley, J. Bulger, J. T. Fraser, M. Blim, J.
Watson, William Thompson, William Johnson, E. H. Cheeney, H. Gondey, S. Cheenoy,
and Miss L. Perrine. The first officers were: J. W. Wilcox, W. C. T.; Mrs. A.
Hitchcock, W. Y. T.; C. L. Farnsworth, W. S.; J. Carson, W. F. S.; and R.
Farnsworth, W. T. This lodge had at one time as many as ninety-six members, but
interest in it waned, and its charter was eventually surrendered.

   No Surrender Lodge, I. O. G. T.—This Lodge, No. 375, was organized November
9, 1875, and had the following names on its charter: C. N. Andrews, James H.
Brown, John Cunningham, Theo. Wright, Tim. Keegan, James Piggott, John Piggott,
Alf. Sayton, Cordelia A. Brown, and Vesta Nickols. The first officers were: C.
N. Andrews, W. C. T.; Vesta Nickols, W. V. T.; James H. Brown, W. S.; John
Piggott W. F. S.; Cordelia A. Brown, W. T. There are at present seventeen
members, and they are struggling boldly to maintain the truthfulness of their
name, "No Surrender."

   Catholic Church.—The first mass was celebrated in this place in March 1860,
by Rev. Father Rosse. This mass was celebrated in the school house. In October,
1860, the church building was erected, but was not dedicated until 1862 or 1863.
This is a very neat church building, and serves the purpose of the congregation
admirably. The following pastors have officiated here: Fathers Rosse, Onetta,
Welch, Fagin, Slattery, Kelly, Cullen and Gushing.

   Tanneries.—As has been stated before, the first tannery in this vicinity was
put in operation by Captain Smith in 1851. This was destroyed by fire in 1863.
In 1864 the old pioneer, Thomas Murray, erected a building and started a tannery
about a mile north of the town. He continued to make an excellent quality of
leather here for several years, but finally disposed of it to Messrs. Hecht
Bros, of San Francisco, who still own it. It is conducted at present by John
Collins.

   FREESTONE.—This charming little village is located near the eastern line of
the township, and on the line of the North Pacific Coast Railroad, and near the
corner of three ranchos, viz: Jonive, Pogolome and Estero Americano. The early
history of these ranchos has already been given, but a few more points of
interest are related here. James Dawson made application for the Pogolome grant,
but before it was confirmed to him he died. His wife under her maiden name,
Donna Maria Antonia Cazares, secured the confirmation of the grant to herself as
the widow of Santiago (James) Dawson. This confirmation was made by Manuel
Micheltorena on the 12th day of February, 1844, and was approved by the
Departmental Assembly December 26, 1845. The grant contained eight thousand
seven hundred and eighty-eight and eighty-one one-hundredths acres. In November,
1847, F. G. Blume married Mrs. Dawson, and the charge of the property passed
into his hands. He resided in Sonoma at that time, and was engaged in mercantile
pursuits. He sent his brother-in-law, Henry Hagler, to the ranch as his agent.
Hagler, it will be remembered, was the man who came from Baltimore with Captain
Smith as a ship's carpenter. He remained in charge until 1848, when Mr. Blume
and his wife moved upon the rancho and took charge. They have resided
continuously in the same house ever since. About this time his father-in-law,
Francisco Cazares, with his family, came up from Monterey and settled on the
banks of the Ebabias creek. The settlers league forced Mr. Blume to sell much of
his valuable estate at nominal figures, so that he now owns but a small portion
of the original grant.

   The town of Freestone derived its name from a kind of easily worked, or, free
sandstone quarry which is near the place; this rock is used extensively for
building purposes, on account of this quality. After a town had been started and
the dwellers therein were casting about for an appropriate name, one Frank
Harris bethought himself of this freestone quarry, and at once suggested it,
which, after due consideration, was adopted. Mr. Blume had kept a small stock of
goods in one room of his residence since 1848, but the first business house
erected in the town was a saloon with a small store attached kept by Ferdinand
Harbordt. This was in 1849. Probably during the same year or the next at least,
S. Bruggerman erected a large store building at O'Farrell's place. In 1853 Mr.
Blume built a large two-story hotel, which he rented to James Dobson. During the
same year W. H. Sailhardt built a blacksmith shop. Thomas O'Grady also built one
at the same time, but did not occupy it. At present there is one general store,
one hotel, one blacksmith shop, one carpenter shop, one stirrup factory, one
saloon, one tannery, which was put in operation in 1878 by Jacob Shoenagel. It
turns out a good quantity of leather. The official directory is as follows: F.
G. Blume, Justice of the Peace and Postmaster; J. C. Morris, Constable; J. D.
Carr, Telegraph and Wells, Fargo & Co.'s agent.

   The town is nicely located, and is fast becoming popular for country
residences for city people. It is within easy reach of San Francisco.

   VALLEY FORD.—This thriving little village is situated on the Estero
Americano, four miles from its mouth. It received its name from the fact that an
old Indian and Spanish ford across this stream, was located at this place.
Stephen L. and James E. Fowler were the first settlers here, having purchased of
Mr. Blume six hundred and forty acres lying between the Estero and Ebabias
creeks. In July of 1852, they built a house about two hundred yards from the old
ford. The same year, Thos. Smith built a cabin near where John Vanderleith now
lives. Sanford & Webber located across the creek. They received a portable
grist-mill from the East, and during that Winter were kept busy grinding grain
for the neighbors. The flour was coarse and unbolted. Whitehead Fowler and E.
Thurber also located in this part of Big valley during that year. During the
next year the greater portion of the valley land was taken up. In 1854 a crop of
oats, yielding one hundred bushels to the acre, was raised on the present town
site. During this year Stephen C. Fowler and his family, consisting of his wife
and sons, John H. and Nathaniel, arrived at Valley Ford. Mrs. Fowler was the
first lady resident of that section. In 1856, the Thos. Smith mentioned above
began operations with a grist-mill on a small scale. He had two run of burrs,
and used twelve horses as a motor. Two year3 later a steam engine was placed in
the mill, and it soon became famous for its extra brands of flour. In the Fall
of 1861, Daniel Hall opened a blacksmith shop. That same year J. H. Fowler and
and O. M. Perkins opened a general merchandise business; Jas. E. Fowler opened a
lumber yard, and E. B. and J. W. Palmer built a carpenter shop. J. N. Rien built
the Valley Ford Hotel in 1864. In the Summer of 1876, the North Pacific Coast
Railroad Company extended their line through the town, and erected a neat depot.
This brings the people of this place within four hours of San Francisco, instead
of the old-time tedious route via Petaluma. The population of the place is about
one hundred. There is a district school here. The present business interests of
the town are as follows: One store, one blacksmith shop, one tin shop, one
hotel, one livery stable, two physicians, one shoe shop, one steam flour mill
(owned by Huntly & Cook), and one saloon. The official directory is as follows:
P. E. Merritt, Postmaster; Brown & Le Baron, Wells, Fargo & Co.; B. Fowler,
Telegraph agent. The postoffice was established in 1875.

   Valley Ford, I. O. G. T.—This Lodge, No. 156, was organized March 2, 1865.
The charter members were: Rev. J. R. Hammond, Mary E. Stanley, Benj. Harrington,
A. M. Huntley, Miss Lizzie Mills, Geo. P. Stanley, Wm. Huntley, Rev. A.
Fairbairn, E. D. Mills, Wm. Withrow, A. J. Blainey, Mrs. C. E. Fowler, Mrs. A.
E. Huntley, and E. M. Dibble. Rev. J. R. Hammond was the first W. C. T., and
Benj. Hammond the first Sec'y. The present membership is thirty. The lodge has
always been in a flourishing condition and much interest is felt here in the
cause of temperance.

   Presbyterian Church.—This church organization was effected December 5, 1863,
by Rev. Thomas Fraser, as the Old School Presbyterian Church of Big Valley,
under the Presbytery at Benicia, and the Synod of the Pacific Coast. The
organizing members were Stephen C. Fowler, Mrs. Rebecca Fowler, Mrs. Mary. J.
Palmer, Mrs. Olivia N. Gordon, Mrs. Euzabeth Pettit, Mrs. Laura Meacham, Miss
Olivia E. Meacham, G. W. Case. Mrs. Adelaide L. C«se, Mrs, Hannah N. Hall, Mrs.
H. Cain, and Mrs. Sarah B. Palmer. The following named pastors have served the
church since its organization: Reverends Jas. S. Wylie, Lewis Thompson, C. H.
Crawford, H. R. Avery, R. McCulloch, and Hugh McLeod. The present neat church
edifice was erected in the winter of 1865-6. The present membership is
thirty-three.

   OCCCIDENTAL.—This is a beautiful little village situated in a most delightful
location. It is on the line of the North Pacific Coast Railroad, at the point
where it crosses the divide between the waters which flow into the O'Farrell
valley on the south, and into the Russsan river, through Howard's canon, on the
north. From this fact the place is also called Summit. The railroad company,
have named the station Howards' in honor of William Howard, the oldest settler
living in that section and on whose land a portion of the town is situated. The
other portion of the town is built upon land belonging to M. C. Meeker. The
first start of this town was far different from most California towns, and we
hasten to record the fact that the first building in the place was a church. The
committee who were appointed to choose a location for the proposed church
building met, and after selecting the site, took into consideration what name
they should give to it. They decided upon Occidental. The postoffice was also
petitioned for under that name, hence the place is mentioned indifferently as
Howard's Station, Meekers, Summit, and Occidental. The town lies in the heart of
a redwood forest, and the old stumps still stand in the streets. One hundred and
twenty thousand shingles were made out of a tree which stood on the town site.
The church building mentioned above was erected in 1876. That same year the
railroad reached this point, and the first passenger train arrived here October
16, 1876. M. C. Meeker erected a hotel building which was occupied by J. W.
Noble. He began operations in January, 1877. The first store was opened by
McCaughey & Co., April 4, 1877. Other buildings followed in rapid succession,
nearly all being built in 1877, There are twenty-four buildings in the town, of
which all but seven were erected by the enterprising milling firm of Meeker Bros.

   The very first permanent settler in this immediate section was Michael
Kolmer. He arrived in California in 1846, having with him his family, consisting
of his wife, two daughters and one son. They spent that winter at Sutter's Fort,
then went to Fort Ross, and spent the year of 1847. In 1848, he came down and
leased land of Captain Smith, on the Bodega Rancho. This tract of land was
located about two and one-half miles west of the present site of Howard's
Station, in what is known as Coleman valley. The original name was Kolmer
valley, taking its appellation from the Kolmer family. It has since been
modified to Coleman. One of his daughters married William Howard, and still
resides with her husband at their homestead near Occidental. The other daughter
married William Benitz, and is now residing in the Argentine Republic. A man
named Patrick McCue was the next settler. He located in a little valley just
east of Howard's Station in 1849. McCue came to California in 1847, with Samuel
Brannan and the Mormons in the ship "Brooklyn." He came up to Bodega and worked
at the blacksmith business for some time for Captain Smith, on his rancho and at
his mill. He soon, however, came to the mill run by James Black and others, near
the present site of Freestone. He followed his trade here for a while, and
finally settled as stated above. In 1852, he left the country. The next
permanent settler was William Howard, who came to California in 1848, and
located on his present homestead in 1849. He was the first settler who actually
owned the land he was upon, and is the only old settler who still resides in
this vicinity. Mr. Howard had a partner by the name of Charles Romer. They
remained together till 1855. During the next few years several squatters came
and went, but none made permanent homes. From that time on till the advent of
the railroad, nothing occurred to cause a ripple upon the even tenor of its way.
The town has assumed quite an importance as a shipping point, cord-wood,
fence-posts, tan-bark, and charcoal form the bulk of the exports.

   Methodist Episcopal Church.—The Occidental (M. E.) church edifice was erected
in 1876, but a church organization was not effected till the following year. The
present membership is thirty-five. The following ministers have served the
people at this place: Revs. A. Winning, D. E. George, A. K. Sheriff, H. E.
Tallman, C. S. Milnes.

   Salmon Greek Lodge, I. O. O. F.—This lodge, No. 234, was organized August 2,
1875, at Bodega Corners, and was moved to Occidental, May 25, 1878. The charter
members were: J. K. Smith, G. C. Taylor, J. H. Brown, A. Willis, David Robinson,
H. Samsel, W. J. Lewis, L. F. Wormell, and J. Sutter. The first officers were:
J. K. Smith, N. G.; G. C. Taylor, V. G.; J. H. Brown, Secretary; and D.
Robinson, Treasurer. The following members have filled the position of N. G.: J.
K. Smith, James H. Brown, G. C. Taylor, L. F. Wormell, W. Ramsdale, J. Worry, S.
McCrady, and I. C. Perry. The present officers are: I. C. Perry, N. G.; Thomas
Murray, V. G.; D. J. Carr, Secretary; and W. Light, Treasurer. The present
membership is fifty-four. The lodge is in a very flourishing condition. They
have a very neat lodge-room.

   Altamont Lodge, I. O. G. T.-Altamont Lodge, No. 374, I. O. G. T., was
chartered June 2, 1877, with the following original members: I. C. Perry, Mrs.
H. M. Perry, J. D. Conley, Mrs. G. G. Blainey, Rev. D.E. George, Mrs. E. George,
D. P. Rice, H. P. Hurlburt, T. J. Alley, R. M. Shaffer, G. W. Shuster, F. W.
Gifford, W. Rima, Mrs. R. Stone, Miss M; B. Haufstader, Miss A. Hurlburt, Miss
H. Hurlburt, Mrs. F. A. Rollison, and H. Hurlburt. The first officers were: T.
J. Alley, W, C. T.; Mrs. E. George, W. V. T. H. P. Hurlburt, Secretary; and Mrs.
F. A. Rollison, Treasurer. In due course of time the interest in the cause of
temperance began to wane, and the charter was finally surrendered in May, 1878.
Since that time there has been no move in the cause of temperance.

   The business interests of the town are represented as follows: One hotel, two
stores, two saloons, one blacksmith shop, one livery stable, one feed store, two
meat markets, one shoe shop, one barber shop, and one physician. The population
is about one hundred. The official directory is: O. Collister, Notary Public;
Telegraph and Wells, Fargo & Co.'s agent, A. J. Blainey, Postmaster. The
Occidental postoffice was established December 7, 1876, with the present
incumbent as postmaster. There is a public school in the town, which was
established in 1878. There is a nice new school-house located just at the
southern entrance to the town.

   Saw-Mills.—As has already been stated, the first attempt to make lumber in
this township was made by James Dawson, in 1835, with a saw-pit and hand
rip-saw. The first mill was that of Captain Smith, which was the first steam
saw-mill in California, established in 1843. The next sawmill was located on the
Jonive Rancho, and was put in operation sometime previous to 1849. We find no
record of when the mill was built, but find that it was disposed of in 1849.
This mill was situated on the little creek which passes through Freestone, very
near the present site of the town, and was run by water power. Edward M.
McIntosh, James Black, Thomas Butters, William Leighton, Frederick Hegel, Thomas
Wood, and a pioneer who was known by the peculiar name of "Blinking Tom," put
the mill in operation. In 1849, it is said that they disposed of their mill and
lumber to F. G. Blume, and went to the mines. The next milling enterprise was
inaugurated in 1848, and was known as the "Benicia" or " Blumedale Mill and
Lumber Company," This company was composed of mechanics who were at work on the
Government barracks at Benicia. Charles McDermot was President and John Bailiff,
Secretary; Lieutenant, now General George Stoneman, and a Mr. McKnight, and
others, were members of the company. F. G. Blume rented the land to this
company, hence the name of "Blumedale." It was a circular saw and the power was
steam. It was put in operation in 1849. The site of the mill was on Ebabias
creek, about one mile south of Freestone. The next mill built was what is now
known as the Joy mill. It was put in operation in 1855, by three brothers by the
name of Thurston. It is located northward from Bodega Corners, and is still
standing on the original site, and is doing good service yet. It has a capacity
of about three thousand feet per day. Messrs. Mudge, Phelps and Perkins, the
parties who purchased Captain Smith's mill, and leased the timber land for
ninety-nine years, moved their mill, in 1859, to a site about one mile south of
Occidental. In 1862, they removed it to Mendocino county. In 1866, M. C. Meeker
put his mill in operation. It is located near the old site of the last named
mill, south of Occidental. It is a fine mill, and has a capacity of fifteen
thousand feet daily. There is one pair of double saws in it, the bottom saw
being sixty inches in diameter, and the top one fifty-eight. It is also supplied
with a full outfit of all the necessary machinery and appliances to make it a
first-class mill in every respect. In 1867, Mr. Smith built a mill in Coleman
valley. It has a capacity of twelve thousand feet* and is a first-class mill.


Additional Comments:
Extracted from:

HISTORY
—OF-

SONOMA COUNTY,
-INCLUDING ITS—
Geology, Topooraphy, Mountains, Valleys and Streams;
—TOGETHER WITH—
A Full and Particular Record of the Spanish Grants; Its Early History and
Settlement, Compiled from the Most Authentic Sources; the Names of Original
Spanish and American Pioneers; a full Political History, Comprising the Tabular
Statements of Elections and Office-holders since the Formation of the County;
Separate Histories of each Township, Showing the Advancement of Grape and Grain
 Growing Interests, and Pisciculture;
ALSO, INCIDENTS OF PIONEER LIFE; THE RAISING OF THE BEAR FLAG; AND BIOGRAPHICAL
SKETCHES OF EARLY AND PROMINENT SETTLERS AND REPRESENTATIVE MEN;
—AND OF ITS—
Cities, Towns, Churches, Schools, Secret Societies, Etc., Etc.
ILLUSTRATED.
SAN FRANCISCO:
ALLEY, BOWEN & CO., PUBLISHERS.
1880.



Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1879, by ALLEY, BOWEN & Co.,
in the office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington, D. C.

PACIFIC PRESS,
Oakland, Cal. Printers., Stereotypers and Binders.


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