Sonoma County CA Archives History - Books .....Early History And Settlement Of Sonoma County, Part 2 1880
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Book Title: History Of Sonoma County

   PUBLIC SCHOOLS.—John G. Marvin, the first State Superintendent of Public
Schools, was enabled to report in 1852 to the Legislature certain information
which he had gleaned the previous year in the matter of public instruction. With
respect to Sonoma county, he stated that the number of children was two hundred
and fifty; that there was one school at each of the following places, Sonoma,
Santa Rosa, Analy, Bodega, and Mark West; the three former being English and the
rest Spanish, which were entirely supported by contributions and tuition money.
To-day, there are one hundred and four school districts within the limits of the
county, which receive an apportionment from the State of nearly eight thousand
dollars, and more than four thousand from the county.

   CHURCHES.—The Methodist Church.—In the fall of 1849, A. J. Heustis, A. M., a
local preacher from Wisconsin, came to Sonoma with his family, and organized a
class, preaching occasionally in the town during the greater portion of the
following year, when, removing to Humboldt Bay, the people were without the
ministration of the Word until February, 1851, excepting one occasion, when Rev.
J. Owen, then Presiding Elder for the entire State, organized a Quarterly
Conference, and promised to send a minister as soon as possible.

   This promise was fulfilled a few weeks after, when Rev. S. D. Simonds, then
but partially recovered from a severe attack of the Panama fever, was placed in
charge of the work, with instructions to look after all our interests north of
the bay.

   A few weeks previous to this the Rev. Matthew Lassetter, an English local
preacher, settled in Napa valley, and preached regularly until the following
autumn at the house of Mr. Harbin.

   Bro. Simonds hired a house at Benicia, and with his estimable wife, engaged
with commendable zeal in the labors assigned him, making appointments at the
following places: Martinez, Benicia, Suisun, Vallejo, Napa City, Harbin's,
Kellogg's (in Napa valley), Sonoma, Bodega, and Russian River, each to be filled
every two weeks, which he generally did.

   To go once around the curcuit required 180 miles of travel. At five of the
appointments, Suisun, Harbins', Kellogg's, Sonoma and Bodega, Bro. S. organized
Sunday Schools, which it is believed were well attended during the summer
months. Sister S. also gathered around her a few young children each Sabbath at
Benicia giving them faithful instruction.

   On Friday 2nd May, 1851, the first camp meeting ever held in California was
commenced almost one mile from Sonoma near Kelsey's garden. Bro. J. W. Brier
preached the first sermon. At this meeting a number of persons professed
religion and Bro. Owen baptized one adult by pouring.

   In the following September another camp meeting was held in Napa valley on
the east side of the creek below Yount's mills. The Rev. William Roberts of
Oregon was present, having come to attend to his duties as Superintendent of the
Mission Conference held at San Francisco immediately after the close of the
camp-meeting.

   Revs. James Carwine and Alexander McLean were appointed at this conference to
the work, the latter remaining but a few months when he was put in charge of
Plumas circuit.

   In the following May, Rev. J. A. Swaney, one of seven missionaries just
arrived, was sent by Mr. Owen to assist Mr. Carwine. They labored very
acceptably and usefully during the conference year.

   During this year the work, was divided into the Benicia, Napa, and Sonoma
counties, and at the Annual Conference following, Bodega circuit was set off
from the Sonoma work, including Petaluma and the Bodega country, Russian River,
Anderson valley, and Big River, Rev. A. L. S. Bateman in charge.

   In Feburary, 1854, the Bodega Circuit ceased to exist and of it were formed
Petaluma and Russian River Circuits, Bro. Bateman being appointed to the latter.

   The Annual Conference held at San Jose commencing August 27, 1856, divided
the Russian River Circuit and formed the Santa Rosa Circuit as recommended,
placing R. W. Williamson in charge and Colin Anderson, Assistant.

   There seems to be a loss of minute business, from the time of the second
quarterly Conference for the year 1857-8 held at Healdsburg February 22, 1858,
until the first quarterly meeting of the next Conference year held at Healdsburg
December 4, 1858. Rev. E. Bannister being elder.

   Rev. M. C. Briggs was elder the previous year.

   At the Annual Conference held at Sacramento September, 1858, the Santa Rosa
Circuit was divided, and the northern part, including the Russian River country
below the canon, Dry Creek, Windsor, and Alexander's, was constituted the
Russian River Circuit.

   At the Conference held at Santa Clara September 12, 1860, the name of the
circuit was changed to Healdsburg, Rev. J. W. Stump, preacher in charge, who had
j ust arrived on the Coast, transferred from the Ohio Conference.

   The circuit then consisted of four appointments, Healdsburg, Windsor,
Geyserville, and Alexander's.

   We have been unable to gather a general history of the other churches as
complete as the foregoing, full chronicles of the special congregations will,
however, be found in other places, for most of these annals have been provided
by the ministers and clergymen themselves, each of whom naturally takes a
special interest in his own church.

   We will now pass on to other matters which have tended to bring Sonoma county
to its present state of perfection.

   AGRICULTURE.—That it was not for some time after the settlement of the county
that its soil was thought to be prolific there is no reason to doubt. The
priests who first penetrated into these unknown regions were unaware of the
immense resources which yet remained unrevealed in the bosom of mother earth;
they imagined that if aught could be done, it should be so attained by means of
irrigation, for we find Father Altimira entering in his Journal, these remarks:
— "We started from Lema on the morning of the 27th, about six o'clock, and
explored the plain running east, which is extensive enough for a Mission, the
land being fertile and covered with grass, but of little use for plants,
requiring irrigation in the summer season, for in that season the springs are
dried up, as is also the brook running on said plat, or plain, called
Chocaimoi." This would appear to have been penned in regard to lands, near the
old adobe.

   The first agriculturists in the county were indisputably the Russians, and
though they did not cultivate what is now considered the best wheat soil, still,
they made large shipments of grain to their fur hunters in Russian America,
quantities being despatched from Bodega to Sitka. At Ross they planted orchards,
the trees of which to-day bear heavy crops of fruit, while the remains of their
rude implements of husbandry have been found at both these places.

   In succession to the Muscovite were the Spanish Priests who further developed
the wonderful fertility of Sonoma. Ten years after the founding of San Francisco
Solano, an official report is made by them that the mission owns three thousand
horned cattle, seven hundred horses, four thousand sheep, and the harvest that
year had yielded three thousand bushels of grain, and this was the product of
the small tract which they occupied in Sonoma Valley.

   In the present day the vast resources of Sonoma is a matter of notoriety; the
country around Bodega, Bloomfield, and down to Petaluma, is the renowned potato
district, the northwestern part is principally devoted to stock raising, the
coast line is the home of the dairy producer, while in all the level alluvial
plains, grain of every kind grows to a marvellous perfection. The wheat yield
for this year has exceeded that of any other since 1874, while the surplus is
expected to amount to upwards of one million and a half of bushels.

   The splendid prices realized this year for wool and hops have been a godsend
to the producers of those staples. For several years past prices have ranged
low, and a poor market this year would undoubtedly have worked the severest
hardships with many. Not only are prices high now, but they promise to remain so
for another season at least. The products this year will be all needed for
immediate consumption, and hence no surplus will possibly remain over to drug
the market next season. The best commercial authorities state that the
production of wool at the East and elsewhere than the Pacific Coast, is this
year many millions short of actual wants by the factories. This, coupled with
the fact that a general revival of business is putting in operation many
factories for years idle, would even indicate that the price of wool will remain
high, for several years to come. Hops are almost certain to be high next year,
but the prospects for their remaining so for a longer time than that, is not so
encouraging as is the case with wool.

VINICULTURE.—Next to the cultivation of cereals, the vine engrosses the minds of
the residents of Sonoma more than any other agricultural production. On account
of the adaptability of the soil, Sonoma valley is the center of the
grape-growing interest, although there are several other localities where it
nourishes. Here it was that the vine was first planted, and here were first
taken those measures which made the grape and wine interest one of the chiefest
importance to Sonoma county.

   If there be any credit or any blame attached to the inauguration of this
industry, the onus must be borne by the Mission Fathers, for to them is due the
introduction of the grape, which was that now ordinarily, known as the -Mission,
then popularly supposed to be a seedling from seed sent out from Spain, and from
which, in a rude way, they manufactured wine; adding spirits thereto to keep
them sweet. The early American settlers in their cultivation of the grape
followed in the beaten track of the Holy Fathers, both in regard to the quality
and quantity of vines planted, as well as in their location. At that time it was
believed to be impossible to raise any crop without irrigation, therefore vines
were only planted where the convenience of water could be readily obtained and
rich soil was always chosen. The first person to doubt the correctness of this
theory, and who was willing to put these doubts to the proof was Colonel Agoston
Haraszthy, of Sonoma. This gentleman was a Hungarian Noble, of a Court lineage,
who was expatriated on account of the part he played, in a political crisis, in
his native land. After residing for some time in Wisconsin he removed to
California in 1849, and in 1856 came to Sonoma, and devoted his whole attention
to viniculture. His biographer tells us: "He founded a Horticultural Society,
and began importing vines from abroad. He was the first to advocate the raising
of vines without irrigation—planted the most extensive vineyards, and at once
put himself at the head of the wine interest. He may with propriety be called
the Father of Viniculture in California. In 1858 he wrote a treatise on the
culture of the vine and the manufacture of wine, which was published by the
State for gratuitous distribution. This publication gave the first impulse to
this interest, and from that time California became the Wine State of the
Western Continent. He was the first to adapt the redwood timber to the making of
casks for wine. In 1861 he was appointed by the Governor of California as a
Commissioner to visit the wine countries of Europe, which resulted in the
importation of three hundred different named varieties of grapevines, which have
now been planted quite extensively in most of the vineyards of the State, from
which are made the most valuable wines we now produce. The book' written by Col.
Haraszthy, entitled 'Grape Culture, Wines and Wine-Making,' is conceded to be
one of the best yet written. Upon his return from Europe in 1862 he was chosen
President of the State Agricultural Society, having been Vice-President for
three terms prior thereto. In 1863 he organized the Buena Vista Vinicultural
Society, to which he conveyed his four hundred acres of vines in Sonoma." In
1868 Col. Haraszthy transferred his domicile to Nicaragua, where he became
actively engaged in different pursuits. On July 6, 1869, he mysteriously
disappeared. On that day he left his house to go where he was having a saw-mill
erected. His footsteps were traced to the river. It is supposed that he
endeavored to cross the stream by climbing the branch of a tree, which breaking,
he fell into the water and was devoured by an aligator.

   But to return to our subject: In the Winter of 1858 Col. Haraszthy put into a
high tract of land, east of the town of Sonoma, eighty thousand vines, the
progress and growth of which was keenly watched by all interested in
viniculture. The experiment succeeded beyond the most sanguine expectations, and
marked a new era in the cultivation of the grape in California; henceforward the
rich and heavy bottom lands were abandoned for the hillsides.

   About this period the securing of a wine finer in flavor, by means of the
introduction of foreign grapes, commenced to be much canvassed. Connoisseurs had
given as their dictum that the native wines had not the excellence of the
article produced abroad; it was either too earthy or too fiery, or too sweet and
insipid. This was unquestionably owing, partially to the quality of the soil and
the irrigation of the vine, and in a great measure attributable to the want of
experience on the part of the grower, for, with further experience and more
suitable soil, the original mission grape has been made to produce wine of
excellent quality. In 1861 the Legislature appointed Col. Haraszthy, Mr. Schell,
and Col. Warren, as a Committee, to inquire into, and report upon, the best
means of promoting and improving the growth of the vine in this State. The
former visited Europe, as has been stated above, and made selections of
different varieties of grapes, which he imported; the latter reported upon the
condition of viniculture as then existed in California, and Mr. Schell upon the
culture of the grape in the South American States. Col. Haraszthy, on his tour,
selected three hundred and fifteen different varieties of grapes, and brought to
this country two hundred thousand rooted vines and cuttings. These were
distributed to various parts of the State, and each variety matured its own
peculiar kind of grape; some proved to be much superior to others, these were
selected, but none have been found that in this soil do not maintain their
distinctive European qualities; and the modes and conditions of wine-making
being equal, produces a wine identical with what it does in Europe. 

   Arpad Haraszthy, son of the Colonel, in the Overland Monthly (January, 1872),
an able magazine, now, alas, among the things that were, contributes an article,
portions of which we quote, on the advantages possessed by California as a
wine-growing country:—

   California has one advantage over any wine producing country on the globe,
and that is the certainty, constancy, and duration of her dry season. The grape
is a fruit that needs, above all others, a warm sunshine, without interruption,
from the time that the blossoms set forth their tender flowers, until they
gradually develop into its rich, luscious fruit in October. This advantage has
always existed here, as far back as our record extends, and no rain or hail ever
destroyed the tender fruit. The sure and uninterrupted duration of this dry
weather secures a crop without a chance of failure, and ripens the grape to
perfection. One of the most serious drawbacks in all other parts of the world is
the uncertainty of the seasons and entire variance from preceding ones, thus
creating a great difference in the quality of the wine produced in successive
vintages. This difference in quality is so great that it is quite common to find
the prices vary from one to two hundred per cent, in the same district. The
products of the renowned vineyards are known to have fluctuated even to a
greater extent. In Europe, they only reckon to secure in ten years one good crop
of fine quality, but small quantity; while seven vintages are reckoned as being
of poor quality, small quantity, and total failures. In our State, the variation
in quality seldom amounts to five per cent, while the most disastrous years have
not lessened the crop below the ordinary yield more than twenty-five per cent in
quantity. This very variation in quantity can be fully known three months
previous to the vintage, thus allowing the producer ample time to secure his
casks, and furnishing him positive knowledge as to the number required. In other
countries, even fourteen days before the vintage, there is no certainty of a
crop, a wind, a rain, or a hail-storm is apt to occur at any moment and
devastate the entire vintage. All is uncertainty there; nor has the vintner any
possible means of positively ascertaining how many casks he must provide. In
abundant years in the old countries, the exchange has often been made, of so
many gallons of wine for an equal number of gallons' capacity of casks. The
disadvantages of being forced to secure such immense quantities of casks in so
limited a period are two easily perceived, and we certainly can not appreciate
our own advantage too much in being very differently situated. Another great
benefit derived from the long continuance of the dry weather, is the exemption
from weeds in our vineyards after the final plowing. Thus all the nourishment
and strength of the soil go wholly to their destination, the vine, and hence the
vigorous appearance that even the most delicate imported varieties acquire even
in our poorest soils. They necessarily bear much more. This circumstance will
also explain, in a measure, why our cultivation does not cost as much per acre
as that in European countries, though our labor is so much higher. The advantage
of our dry weather does not end here: it precludes the possibility of continued
mildew, and allows the vintner to leave his vines unstaked, the bunches of
grapes actually lying, and securely ripening, upon the very ground, without fear
of frost or rotting.    In this condition, the grapes mature sooner, are
sweeter, and, it is believed, possess more flavor.

   Above and beyond the ability and advantage we have of producing all kinds of
grapes to perfection, of making from them wines that are pleasant, inviting to
the taste, and which will keep, with but little skill and care, for years, whose
limit has not yet been found, we still have a greater advantage over European
vintners in the cheapness of our cultivation. Labor, material, and interest are
all very high with us; but, nevertheless, the setting out and cultivation of an
acre of vineyard costs less in California than it does in France. For this we
are as much indebted to our improved means of cultivation as to the nature of
our climate. All labor, in the majority of the wine districts of Europe, is done
by hand. We use the horse and plow, while they use the prong-hoe and spade, and
they actually dig and hoe up their entire vineyards, with few exceptions. After
our spring cultivation is over, we need not go into our vineyards, and, having
no summer rains, weeding is not necessary, and still their freeness from weeds
and clean appearance strike the stranger with surprise. Owing on the contrary,
to the wet season of Europe, the vine-dressers are constantly kept among the
vines, trying to give them a clean appearance, but in spite of all their
efforts, they but imperfectly succeed, and their vineyards never possess that
appearance of high and perfect cultivation that is so apparent in our own.

   California Wines.—The following article is produced from the San Francisco
Chronicle: —

   It is obvious that in the nature of things the Comstock Lode which now
absorbs all our superfluous coin, cannot last forever. There is one argument
against it as an investment which ought to be fatal to it, and that is the
amount of silver which has already been drawn from its bowels. All scientific
men believe that fresh developments may be made, but the chances against their
being general are simply enormous. Many holders of stock believe that any
discovery in any mine must advance the price of others, and it has hitherto done
so without a doubt. But the fatal argument of the amount of silver that has been
realized must weigh upon men's minds and must tend to prevent any general rise.
The discovery of silver in one mine is in reality an argument against other
discoveries in other parts of the lode, upon general principles of logic, and
aside from any pseudo scientific theories of silver-mining. There is this
certainty in all investments in mining stock— that such a placing of money
cannot be permanent. The odds are against success; but even should success come,
the investor must watch his investment, or, after being raised to the seventh
heaven, he will be lowered to the uttermost depths. The merchant cannot be
watching his stock, he has his own affairs to look after. The mechanic has his
bench, the servant his duties, and they are all in the hands of men who
naturally desire to make money whatever happens. Hence the situation is unreal.
Even if successful, the beginning is big and the end small. It is an investment
that grows backwards, a man that dwarfs into an embryo. And there is a
wide-spread general belief that fair play is seldom shown upon the Comstock,
though this may be only the excuse and shift of dealers to account for failures
for which they are themselves responsible. They get up accounts of success
before it comes, and profit alike by the inflation and the collapse. Then when
the success does arrive tardily some eight months afterwards, they have a story
of foul play at the mine which, perhaps, is entirely fictitious. But this much
is certain, that if all were honest, if all were fair on the Comstock and
exchange, the investment would be a lottery and not an investment. And every man
owes it to his family to make such investments as shall be perpetual and grow
with the growth of the State.

   Now this is the exact condition of California wine culture. All those who
have examined the subject are satisfied that the wine is superior on the average
to any other wine of any other country, not even excepting France. This industry
has fought its way from small beginnings, until it commences to push its way
into the front rank. It was once a little cloud not bigger than a man's hand,
and now it looms large, and is destined, in the opinion of many, to cover all
California. And it has numberless advantages over other industries, which men
begin to realize. Everything which is connected with it receives a permanent
benefit, for instead of being compelled to diminish and disappear, like mining,
it constantly increases and enlarges and waxes strong. The more men are engaged
in growing grapes the more mouths have to be fed by California farmers, and they
know full well that the great profit of growing wheat is in the market on the
other side of the hill, and not the other side of Cape Horn. Commercially
speaking, there is no possibility of over production in wine, for immediately
that a nation embraces wine-making it becomes wine-consuming also. France that
has by its system of almost infinite subdivision of lands compelled the peasant
proprietor to raise grapes whether the soil be suitable or not, is not able to
supply the home demand, although vines are planted to the injurious exclusion of
other products because they pay far better than anything else. And the time will
certainly come when all America will be wine-consuming, and whisky-drinking be a
thing of the past. To-day in the restaurants of San Francisco native wine can be
had at an almost nominal charge, and with our rapidity of progress it cannot be
doubted that the style of our restaurants will spread to Chicago and St. Louis,
thence to Cincinnati and Indiana, thence to New York, Philadelphia and Boston.
The whole of the United States will be covered as by a golden net with
establishments where the good cheap wine of California can be drunk. At present
California drinks about three million gallons of her own wine annually, and will
this year export more than two millions and a half to New York. But,
unfortunately, in New York the wine is bottled and sold as French.

   If the capital which is absorbed by the ever-thirsty Comstock, that gapes
like a dusty sponge, could be turned toward the wine interest, this condition of
our export business would be materially changed. Had our wine-handlers the
capital, our best wines would be bottled and kept for several years, until
mature, and would be sold by Californian agents in all the large cities of the
East in open competition with the French; and our average grade wines would be
sold even cheaper than they are now, so as to place them within the reach of all
Eastern restaurants. At present this is the course pursued on a very limited
scale in California; but with our restricted capital, we cannot extend the
sphere of our operations beyond our own State. Hence California wine is under a
great disadvantage, and her dealers suffer a loss of prestige and profit. The
New York dealers buy a cheap average of our wines—that is to say, fair wines
about a year old—and pass them off upon the public for French superior wine?. So
immense and wholesale is the swindling perpetrated in the French wine ports,
Cette, Marseilles and Bordeaux, that the public is actually benefitted by the
New York trickery. For though these wines which masquerade as superior French
wines are in reality inferior California wines, yet they are far better than the
French vins de cargaisons or export wines. There is no attempt on the part of
the friends of California wine to claim equality with the French chateau wines,
but it has been demonstrated by analysis, based upon the invoices of wine in the
United States Consular offices of the ports named, that these fine wines do not
come to America. If any American wants them he must go to the vineyards and buy
the vintage over the heads of other buyers, but these fine wines are not
exported from France on commission, as nineteen-twentieths of the French wine
that comes to America actually is. The wine is notoriously fabricated from bad
wines, both white and red, flavored in imitation sweetened with brown sugar,
strengthened with alcohol distilled at Hamburg from potatoes, and colored with
fuchsine, one of the petroleum colors. This delectable compound is brought down
to the correct claret pitch with water, and the whole comes in cask to New York,
accompanied by cases filled with empty bottles, assorted packets of grand
labels, straw, corks and everything necessary to give the wine the air of having
been bottled in France. The known price of this vin de cargaison is from six to
seven cents a gallon. Now, our California wines that take the place of this
villainous stuff are pure and good, but they have not been given the time to
mature, and are consequently often crude and acrid. A peach is delicious, but an
unripe peach is by no means a delicate morsel. So it is with wine. The better it
is in 'quality, the longer it takes to ripen. Wines that have a low level of
quality soon reach it, for they have not far to go; wines that are very superior
have far to go, and it take3 them a corresponding length of time.

   It is hard that one of the worst enemies of California wine is an enemy
within the gates—a household foe. Our wealthy men in general affect to disdain
California wine, and speak with rapture of French. It is really a matter for
just complaint that the leading California industry—for such it truly is—should
be slandered by the very men who are in honor bound to maintain and assist it.
California patriotism is notorious; yet it is a fact that the very men who claim
that whatever is done or made in California is better than anything made or done
elsewhere, make an exception against our wine. Singular anomaly! They brag of
things that are doubtful, and they deny that which is certain! If this sentiment
is based upon the cheapness of California wine, then there is a depth of
snobbishness exhibited which the mind recoils from and refuses to fathom. Can
anything more revoltingly purse-proud be imagined than a man who insists upon
buying a bad foreign article because it is dear, and who despises and refuses a
good home article because it is cheap ? If these men had been born in the
purple, if they had drunk French claret all their lives, one would condone their
offense against patriotism, and explain their prejudices by the supposition that
their palates were so depraved by the constant use of what was bad, that they
had lost the power of discriminating what was good. But this apology will not
hold, because we know well enough that these millionaires strengthened their
tissues in the old days of their struggles against poverty with corn whisky, and
the use of claret is only a device born of millions, and a pretense of habits,
aristocratic, and luxurious, to which they are in reality strangers. These men
drink claret and sigh for lager, they degustate Burgundy and wish to heaven that
cider was a fashionable beverage. It would be a sign of true nobility to drink
what they liked without the assumption of tastes which are foreign to them. But
if they must drink wine, let them drink California wine, and then they will at
least have the consolation of patriotism. They would, however, be conferring a
real benefit on the community if they would do what the aristocrats of Europe
set them the example by doing. Wealthy men all over the world are exceedingly
choice in the wines they drink, and have found by experience that the only way
to have a good article is to make a cellar. They first construct underneath
their palatial mansions proper receptacles for the wine, and then they devote
themselves to the grand task of stocking them. This cannot be done by rushing
into the market and offering any price for, let us say, claret of 1858. For, by
the system pursued for the last hundred and fifty years, almost all the 1858
wine went to these private cellars the year it was made. In fact, it was bought
before it was made, and then was laid down in the bins to ripen until thoroughly
mature. Nor was it broached until all the wine of 1846, the preceding grand
vintage, was all consumed. Then 1858 was attacked, and when that was gone 1867
was brought to light. By this method the wealthy have wine that is absolutely
perfect, and the first cost is not great. The expense of a properly constructed
cellar, of competent butlers and cellar-men, is no doubt large, but the result
is perfect wine, and this is not to be had in the market. There are speculators
who, at the death of wine connoisseurs who have no near heirs, or at the failure
and bankruptcy of sporting nobles, buy up such fragments of wine stocks as may
be for sale, but the amount is infinitesimal. Formerly the wealthy of our
Eastern cities did have cellars of Madeira, and American Madeira was notoriously
superior to any other, but since the failure of that wine American cellars have
almost ceased to exist. To the California millionaire fortune now gives the high
privilege of reinstituting the cellar system, stocked not with a single foreign
wine, but with all the generous resources of our magnificent vineyards. We do
not yet know of what California is capable. We have not fairly tried the quality
of Zinfindel, but there is a shrewd belief among the initiated that the rival of
the Chateau wines of the Gironde does exist in this vine. It is thought that
Zinfindel, planted on the most precipitous slopes and fairly matured, will be
the equal, perhaps more than the equal, of Chateau Lafitte, Chateau Margaux, or
Braun Moutoun. No dealer has time or capital to make this attempt. The wine
handlers of San Francisco, with their small capital, have done marvels, but they
cannot do this, for their cellars are occupied with wines that come and go. This
thing is for the rich. Here is their opportunity to be patriotic.

   It must be understood that the fortunes and profits of the wine business are
to be found rather in the general consumption than in the elevation of special
brands. But what is wanted is to attract to our enormous stretches of foothills,
so admirably calculated for the culture of the vine, olive, and fig, continuous
streams of intelligent, well-to-do immigrants. At first the vine-grower had also
to make wine, and this necessity was a bar to his migration, because sensible
men understand how expensive and how difficult is the business. But at this
juncture the wine trade has so developed in this State that grape-growing and
wine-making are distinct pursuits. He who grows grapes only is as certain of a
sale for them as is the wheat cultivator. One may, therefore, boldly say to the
teeming millions of the East, "Come to California and we will make you rich.
Here in the golden grape is the true El Dorado. Here is a heavenly climate, a
delightful land, abundance of all meats, profusion of all fruits, no public debt
of any amount, no crushing taxes and a superb future." For the grape-grower has
the certainty of competence and the possibility of collossal wealth. His
vineyard may turn out one of the favored spots which produce the nectar wine.
The Chateau wines of France are only such favored spots. The grapes which grow
there are the same as those which produce the ordinary wine. But Nature, in her
whimsical prodigality, gives to a place here and a place there certain
facilities and advantages which we cannot discover by any analysis, though we
may know their results. As these spots exist in France, so we know that they
exist here, and any one of these is a silver mine that is never exhausted, but
becomes more valuable as time goes on. If the wealthy men of California would
become interested in our wine, and would, instead of decrying it, form cellars
and assist in finding out by fully maturing the different wines the advantages
of the different localities, then the reputation of our vintages would become so
great that immigrants would come by hundreds of thousands. We have now such a
mass of knowledge with regard to grape culture that no one need go astray.
Information and brotherly assistance await every man who will help to build up
California's grand industry. But we must repeat that we ought to have no enemies
within our gates.

SQUATTING TROUBLES.—For the benefit of our readers we quote the following lucid
statement of facts in regard to the squatting disturbances near Healdsburg which
appeared in the Sonoma County Democrat of June 19, 1862:—

   "The rancho Sotoyome, upon which the lands in dispute are situate, was
granted by the Mexican Government to Henry D. Fitch in 1844. We are told by
attorneys now in attendance upon the District Court that a title more perfect in
all respects was never presented to the courts for adjudication. Mr. Fitch died
in 1849, leaving several children, the plaintiff Mrs. Bailhache among the
number. The rancho was confirmed by the courts, and in April, 1858, a patent
issued therefor from the United States Government. Previous to this, and while
the title to the rancho was pending before the United States Courts, the rancho
was divided into small tracts, and sold under an order of the Probate Court of
this county. At that sale Mrs. Bailhache became the purchaser of the lands in
dispute (some fourteen hundred acres) as her interest in the estate of her
father. After the issuance of the patent for the rancho to the heirs of H. D.
Fitch, Mrs. Bailhache brought a suit in ejectment against the parties in
possession of the premises claimed by her, and after long and patient
litigation, she finally, in October, 1859, obtained judgment for the restitution
of the premises, against three of the parties in possession. In June, 1860, a
judgment by confession in open court was entered against the balance of the
occupants, with a stipulation that it should not be enforced until the first of
December following. In July, 1860, a writ of restitution was issued out of the
District Court against Messrs. Bice, Miller and Neely, the parties against whom
the judgment was obtained in October, 1859, when they, for a mere nominal sum,
entered into a lease, by the terms of which they agreed to deliver up the quiet
and peaceable possession of the premises occupied by them on the first of
December following.

   "On the first of December, 1860, demand was made for the premises in
accordance with the terms of the stipulation, and leases, and proposals made to
sell or lease the premises. No arrangement seems to have been made, and in
January, 1861, a writ of restitution was placed in the hands of the Sheriff
against one C. C. Clark. It appears Clark was put out, the plaintiff put in
possession, and on the same night the plaintiff was ousted by an armed force,
and Clark returned. About this time suit was brought on the leases, upon which
the plaintiff again recovered judgment and small damages. It was upon the
execution issued in this last case that the farce of selling some stock for ten
cents was enacted by Deputy Sheriff Campbell, last winter. At the February term
of the District Court the plaintiff recovered judgment against the defendants
Bice, Miller, and Neely, for some eleven hundred dollars, the value of rents and
profits of the lands held by them. To the execution in this last judgment, the
resistance was made last week. And to the execution of the writ of restitution
the resistance is now made.

   "From the foregoing facts it appears that the defendants in this matter have
chosen to resort to law for the settlement of their rights—that they have had no
standing in court—and have had repeated judgments against them. It appears
further, that they, by their own terms, should have delivered up the possession
of the property long ago. That they have had opportunity to buy or to lease, and
have had the use and occupation of the land at least four years, against the
title of the plaintiff. On their part, we are informed, they say that the title
of the plaintiff is invalid in consequence of some irregularity in the probate
sale. Admit that it is imperfect, the courts have determined that it is good
against them, and resistance to that decree will not give them a title.

   "Many hardships have no doubt been worked upon settlers in this State; but we
can find no apology for the action of the defendants in this matter. They
litigated themselves out of court, have enjoyed the use of the land for years
free of taxation, and now that the plaintiff asks simply what the court says is
hers, if they cannot buy the lands at prices which they can afford to pay, like
true men and law-abiding citizens, they should leave the premises, without
compelling the officer of the court to resort to force to remove them, as he is
certain to do, if they persist. Have not these men some one among their number
capable of weighing the great responsibility they assume in armed resistance to
the law? It is more serious than the settlement of any disputed rights between
the parties. The whole community, county and State, become interested in the
result, and looking beyond any grievances the parties themselves may think they
have suffered, must come to the support of the law as the only safety we have as
a people, in determining and protecting our rights in person and property.
Though these men may be successful for a day, they cannot derive any permanent
rights or benefits, and finally must yield with greater loss to themselves."

   On the 15th July, the Sheriff, with two hundred and thirty of a posse
comitatus, proceeded to the spot, but were unable to gain any end, as is shown
in the subjoined affidavit made by prominent citizens, who were present on the
occasion: "State of California, County of Sonoma.—The undersigned, citizens of
Sonoma county, being each duly sworn, depose and say— that they were of the
posse comitatus summoned by J. M. Bowles, Sheriff of said county, to assist him
(the Sheriff) in the execution of certain writs of restitution or possession in
favor of Josephine Bailhache, and against J. N. Stapp, Alexander Skaggs, Thomas
L. Forsee, Cornelius Bice, Robert Neely, James Miller, and A. M. Green, and were
present with said Sheriff and posse on the 15th day of July, 1862, when an
attempt was made to execute said writs. That upon the approach of said Sheriff
and posse to the premises of the said Cornelius Bice, they found drawn up in
line in front of the house situated upon the premises, of which possession was
to be given, a body of men, numbering about forty, armed with guns. That upon
the Sheriff and his posse coming up to them and informing them that he was there
for the purpose of executing said writs, the said body of armed men declared
that they were there for the purpose of resisting, and would, with all their
force, resist and prevent, if they had the force to do so, the execution of any
and all of said writs, and forbade the Sheriff or his posse to enter the gate to
the yard in which they were standing, with their guns presented towards the
Sheriff and posse. That the Sheriff more than once commanded them to disperse
and permit him peaceably to perform his duty and execute the writs, and that
they refused to do so, and reiterated their determination to forcibly prevent
their execution. That the posse of the Sheriff was unarmed, and from actual
observation and intercourse with them then and there, deponents know that most
of them were unwilling, and a great many of them absolutely refused to risk an
encounter with the said body of armed men. Deponents further say that, from
their information, they believe that the said body of armed men in front of said
house was not more than one-sixth of the whole body of armed men that had
assembled in that immediate vicinity for the purpose of resisting the execution
of these writs, and that the remainder of said body were within such convenient
distance to those in front of the house as to render them assistance upon the
occurrence of any conflict. Deponents further say that it would have been rash
and dangerous to life, and, in their opinion, a useless sacrifice of unarmed
citizens, to have made any further attempt than was made to execute the said
writs then and there, and they believe that they cannot be executed by such a
posse of citizens as the Sheriff can summon in the county, and believe they can
be executed only by the assistance of military power." In order to carry out the
law the Emmet Rifles and Petaluma Guards, under the command of Captains Baylis
and Hewlett, respectively, were detailed for this duty, and proceeded to
Healdsburg, where they, with a posse of civilians, proved themselves able to
cope with the rebellious squatters. Skaggs, Stapp, Miller, and others were tried
before the District Court for contempt, on October 24th, and each fined five
hundred dollars, and sentenced to five days' imprisonment in the county jail.
But here the question did not end. On February 9, 1862, Deputy-Sheriff J. D.
Binns, with a posse, served a writ of restitution upon Cornelius Bice, who had
still remained in occupation, when he, with his family, were removed and J. N.
Bailhache put in possession. That night the premises were burned, by parties
unknown. On the following evening Robert Ferguson was wounded by a gun-shot,
while moving some rails from the premises of one of the defendants, from the
effects of which he died on the 15th.

   RAILROADS.—Of all the means which tend to cause the rapid settlement-of a
country, perhaps there are none which produce such quick results as the
railroad. So soon as it is learned that the fiery horse is snorting through a
hitherto unknown territory, so sure are travelers to make their appearance, and
as the numbers of these increase, more certain is it that permanent occupiers
will follow, trading posts be opened, and around their nucleus before the lapse
of many weeks will a town spring up. As the transportation of freights is
facilitated, so will produce increase, and as crops multiply, still more certain
it is that peace and plenty will reign.

   The want of a rapid means of transportation had loner been felt in Sonoma
county, and though many lines of railroads from all parts of the surrounding
districts had been mooted, it was not until the first year of this decade that a
line of cars became un fait accompli. We will now consider the

   San Francisco and North Pacific Railroad—This line which traverses the entire
length of the Petaluma, Santa Ro3a, and Russian River valleys, was commenced in
the year 1869, and was completed to its present terminus at Cloverdale in 1872.
As a road, not one in the entire State is more complete in its appointments,
while from its incipience to the present time it has progressed with the county,
and reflects much credit upon its builders and upon its management.

   The builder of the line, and the President of the company is Colonel Peter
Donahue. His attention was first called to the work by the Hon. A. P. Overton,
now a prominent citizen of Santa Rosa and formerly of Petaluma. Colonel Donahue,
with that keen business foresight for which he is so eminent among his compeers,
at once saw the necessity which existed for such a road, took in hand, and
pushed it to its completion with that iron will which knows not let nor
hindrance. Of Colonel Donahue's labors, Mr. R. A. Thompson says: "To that
enterprise, which has placed Colonel Donahue in the foremost rank of the
business men of the great metropolis of the Pacific coast, we owe our excellent
facilities for communication with San Francisco. When others faltered or drew
back, he pressed to the front. His business sagacity and capital proved the
"open sesame" which smoothed and made straight our highway to the sea, over
which the varied products of Sonoma county are transported (a rich tribute) to
his adopted city, San Francisco."

   Colonel A. A. Bean, a most accomplished gentleman, is the manager of the line.

   North Pacific Coast Railroad.—The following is from Mr. Thompson's remarkably
interesting and correct work above quoted: —

   "The North Pacific Coast Railroad extends from a point in Marin county,
opposite San Francisco, through that county into Sonoma, and terminates at
Puncan's mill, on Russian river. Milton S. Latham is President of the company.
W. F. Russell is Secretary and general agent, John W. Dougherty is general
manager, W. B. Price is Auditor and general passenger agent, C. B. Mansfield is
assistant superintendent, and J..W. Fillmore, train despatcher.

   "The road was first opened January 1875. Freight cars cross the bay of San
Francisco on barges to the opposite shore at Saucelito, the land terminus of the
road, a distance of six miles; or, reversing the order, they carry the freight
laden cars from the terminus to the city. Each barge has a capacity for twelve
loaded cars, making a great saving in transporting freight."

   "The road has a second terminus on the bay of San Francisco, at San Quentin,
by a branch road, which leaves the main line two miles north of San Rafael. The
Saucelito terminus is used for freight business, while the San Quentin terminus
is used principally for the passenger business. This latter terminus is
connected with San Francisco, a distance of about nine miles, by two elegant
ferry boats, built in New York exclusively for this line, and for travel between
the city of San Francisco and San Rafael.

   "The road is a narrow-gauge, being three feet between the rails; leaving San
Rafael, the road runs through Marin county, passing Ross valley, by Fairfax and
Pacheco, to the summit, known as White Hill, at the head of Ross valley. The
grade in this ascent is one hundred and twenty-one feet to the mile, and so
doubles back upon itself that in one instance the tracks are not one hundred
yards apart after traversing a distance of three-fourths of a mile.

   " At the summit the road passes through a tunnel thirteen hundred feet long,
and descends into the valley of San Geromino creek to Nicasio, and from there to
Tomales. The route to this point is through a splendid dairy country, and, for
all those rare beauties of scenery peculiar to California, it can nowhere be
surpassed.

   "For a year and a half the northern terminus of the road was at Tomales,
fifty-four miles from Saucelito. The entrance to Sonoma county was barred as it
were, by a wall of solid rock, through which it was necessary to cut a tunnel
seventeen hundred feet in length. The men who formed this company were not to be
deterred by obstacles even as formidable- as this rocky barrier; they pierced
it, and soon the hills which enclosed the fertile valleys of southwestern Sonoma
echoed the steam-whistle of the approaching locomotive.

   "The road was finished to its destined terminus on Russian river in the
winter of 1876-7. Just before reaching Valley Ford the road crosses the Estero
Americano, and enters Sonoma county, passing Valley Ford, a pretty village; but
just why its church should have been built across the line in Marin county, is
beyond our ken. Steaming north, we pass Bodega Corners depot, and next
Freestone. Just beyond Freestone the road enters the redwood timber belt,
ascends Salmon creek by a steep grade to Howard's Station, crossing there the
summit of the divide between the waters which fall, on the south, into Bodega
bay, and on the north, into Russian river. Just before reaching Howard's the
road passes over one of the highest bridges west of the Mississippi river. The
bridge is one hundred and thirty-seven feet high. At Howard's we have fairly
entered the redwood timber fields, and begin to realize the ultimate aims of the
projectors of this enterprise, and the business it is destined to develop. Up to
the fall of 1876 there were only three small saw-mills on or near the line of
the road, and the great expense of hauling made them available only for the
local trade. It has been but nine months since the road was completed, and there
are now (1877) on the line of the road six large saw-mills, sending to market
daily one hundred and seventy-five thousand feet of lumber, besides great
quantities of shingles, laths, pickets, cord-wood, tan-bark, and charcoal.

   "Streeten's mill is owned by Latham & Streeten; has a capacity of fifteen
thousand feet per day; has about one thousand acres of land; employs forty men.
The Russian River Land and Lumber Company is owned by Governor M. S. Latham, the
largest owner of timber-land in this section, having ten thousand acres in one
body. From Streeten's mill to Duncan's, with the exception of two miles, the
road passes through its land. It owns all the timber-land on the old Bodega
Rahcho that lies in Ocean township. Its two mills—the Tyrone mill and the Moscow
mill (at Moscow)—have each a capacity of forty thousand feet per day. Each mill
employs from eighty to ninety men, and in the logging for both mills about sixty
cattle are employed. The logs are hauled to mill on small locomotives, or
tramways laid with railroad iron. The lumber, as at all the six saw-mills, is
loaded directly on the cars, and not rehandled until delivered at the wharf in
San Francisco. The saving of labor, expense, and breakage, from this fact alone,
will at once be appreciated by any one familiar with the lumber business.

   "The next mill below is one of the mills of the Madrona Land and Lumber
Company, near the intersection of Howard creek with Russian river. This company
has about one thousand acres of land, and the mill has a capacity of twenty
thousand feet per day, employing fifty men. A branch tract runs three-fourths of
a mile up the Russian river to another mill of this company, having a capacity
of twenty-five thousand feet per day, and employing sixty men.

   "Following down the Russian river we pass the Moscow mill (already
mentioned), and cross the river on the four-hundred-foot bridge to Duncan's
mill. Mr. A. Duncan, the senior proprietor, is the oldest lumberman on this
river. He owns four thousand acres of land, principally on Austin creek, which
empties into Russian river opposite Moscow. Duncan's mill has a capacity of
thirty-five thousand feet per day, and * employs seventy-five men.

   "It is estimated that the lands owned by these parties will produce six
hundred million feet of lumber.

   "Immediately upon the completion of the road, the southern terminus of the
northern coast stages for Stewart's Point, Valhalla, Mendocino City, Point
Arena, and Navarra Ridge, was changed to Duncan's mill, making a great saving in
time for all the northwest coast.

   "A description of this road would be incomplete without referring to the
great inducements it offers to pleasure-seekers and sportsmen. It is not a
sufficiently strong assertion to say that no route of eighty miles out of San
Francisco offers such a variety of beautiful scenery. Moscow and Duncan's Mill,
(opposite the river,) are two charming spots, and as picturesque as any in the
State. The ocean winds, tempered by the distance of seven miles up the Russian
river, prevail all through the summer. Here are to be found the finest fishing
and shooting. Austin creek is one of the notable trout streams in the State;
quail abound; deer are still in the forests and glades. Salmon can be caught in
large numbers in the river."

   Sonoma Valley Railroad.—Several attempts have been made to overcome the
disadvantages to which Sonoma is subjected, yet, though the obstacles in the way
are not only not insuperable, but also not great, the schemes have invariably
come to naught. Now, however, there is a prospect of better things. A shorter
route has been devised, embracing a railroad to overcome the sinuosities and
shallows of Sonoma creek (which in its course resembles the Mississippi river)
and a shorter line by vessel. The most favorable thing to be said of the present
project is that it is not only devised, but that the execution of the project
has actually begun. The scheme is this: A narrow gauge railroad is to be
constructed from Sonoma to Sears' Point, some fourteen miles. At that point a
wharf is to be extended out to a depth of fourteen feet at low-water mark.
Between there and the city a fast steamer is to ply. The entire distance between
Sonoma and San Francisco, it is promised, will be made inside of two hours and a
half, and two round trips will be made daily. Instead of, as now, three trips a
week, fourteen will be made each way; and instead of each trip requiring from
four to seven hours, but two and a half will be necessary. Stage-coaching will
be done away with, teaming of freight will be greatly lessened, loss of time on
sand-bars will be greatly saved, communication will be increased, and Sonoma
will no longer be isolated.

   The construction of the railway has been begun at Norfolk, a point on the
creek between McGill's and Embarcadero, and extended some four miles to the
village boundary. Thence it will be continued as fast as practicable to the
heart of the village.* The right of way has been obtained on the plan that the
Sonomans shall raise funds sufficient to recoup individuals for whatever damage
shall be done to their property. Only one property-holder

* Since writing the above, we have to announce the arrival of the iron-horse
into the town of Sonoma.

stands out, and, if necessary, his opposition will be overcome by the purchase
of his small holding. Simultaneously with the extension of the road into the
village, the road will be pushed from Norfolk—a draw-bridge will here be
necessary—across the reclaimed lands to the base of the foothills, and thence
some six miles to Sears' Point. The construction of this road requires no great
obstacles to be overcome. The greatest has already been surmounted, the building
of the track over some three miles of unreclaimed tule land. There are no cuts
of any consequence to be made, there is virtually no grade, and there is an
abundance of gravel for ballasting easily accessible. The proposed road, in
fact, presents few difficulties, and they will be easily mastered. The Sonoma
Valley Railroad will certainly soon be a fact. Then all that will remain to give
the country through which it passes the vitality which it lacks and needs, is
that the promise of frequent and quick trips across the bay shall be kept. This,
there is scarcely a doubt, will be done. This much accomplished, it is next
proposed to place Sonoma and Santa Rosa in railroad communication. The effect of
this will be to throw open the whole of Sonoma valley to further settlement, to
increase the value of the lands and to stimulate the already great wine, brandy,
and raisin production. We will now draw this portion of our work to a close, and
for any matter which may not be found on the foregoing pages we would refer the
reader to the histories of the townships which will be found farther on. We have
endeavored not to rob county history for the benefit of township history; in
many cases, however, it has been impossible to follow this rule, therefore the
annals of some of the latter are much fuller than others; this may or may not be
a fault; at any rate when certain portions have been omitted in one place they
will be found in the other. In conclusion, we append the following beautiful
lines by Bayard Taylor, as fully portraying the past, present, and future of
Sonoma county:—

0 FAIR young land, the youngest, fairest far
   Of which our world can boast,—
Whose guardian planet, Evening's silver star,
   Illumes thy golden coast,—

How art thou conquered, tamed in all the pride 
Of savage beauty still!
How brought, O panther of the splendid hide,
   To know thy master's will!

No more thou sittest on thy tawny hills
   In indolent repose;
Or pour'st the crystal of a thousand rills
   Down from thy house of snows.

But where the wild-oats wrapp'd thy knees in gold,
   The ploughman drives his share,
And where, through canyons deep, thy streams are rolled
   The miner's arm is bare.

Yet in thy lap, thus rudely rent and torn,
   A nobler seed shall be:
Mother of mighty men, thou shalt not mourn
   Thy lost virginity!

Thy human children shall restore the grace
   Gone with thy fallen pines:
The wild, barbaric beauty of thy face
   Shall round to classic lines.

And Order, Justice, Social Law shall curb 
   Thy untamed energies;
And Art, and Science, with their dreams superb,
   Replace thine ancient ease.

The marble, sleeping in thy mountains now,
   Shall live in sculptures rare;
Thy native oak shall crown the sage's brow,-
   Thy bay, the poet's hair.

Thy tawny hills shall bleed their purple wine,
   Thy valleys yield their oil;
And Music, with her eloquence divine,
   Persuade thy sons to toil.

Till Hesper, as he trims his silver beam,
   No happier land shall see,
And Earth shall find her old Arcadian dream
Restored again in thee!



Additional Comments:
Extracted from:

HISTORY
—OF-

SONOMA COUNTY,
-INCLUDING ITS—
Geology, Topooraphy, Mountains, Valleys and Streams;
—TOGETHER WITH—
A Full and Particular Record of the Spanish Grants; Its Early History and
Settlement, Compiled from the Most Authentic Sources; the Names of Original
Spanish and American Pioneers; a full Political History, Comprising the Tabular
Statements of Elections and Office-holders since the Formation of the County;
Separate Histories of each Township, Showing the Advancement of Grape and Grain
 Growing Interests, and Pisciculture;
ALSO, INCIDENTS OF PIONEER LIFE; THE RAISING OF THE BEAR FLAG; AND BIOGRAPHICAL
SKETCHES OF EARLY AND PROMINENT SETTLERS AND REPRESENTATIVE MEN;
—AND OF ITS—
Cities, Towns, Churches, Schools, Secret Societies, Etc., Etc.
ILLUSTRATED.
SAN FRANCISCO:
ALLEY, BOWEN & CO., PUBLISHERS.
1880.


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