Sonoma County CA Archives History - Books .....Ocean Township 1880
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Book Title: History Of Sonoma County

OCEAN.

   Geography.—Ocean township lies on the western side of Sonoma county,
bordering on the Pacific ocean. It is bounded on the east by Mendocino, Redwood
and Bodega townships, on the south by Bodega township, on the west by the
Pacific ocean, and on the north by Salt Point township. Its boundary lines are
very irregular, not following any direction for any great distance, thus giving
to the township a very jagged and peculiar shape. Russian river, "Rio de los
Rusos," and Austin creek, so named for an old pioneer settler, are its only
streams of any importance whatever. Neither of these are navigable. The river
however is quite a stream, and is very deep and wide in places, but quite narrow
and shallow in others. It is easily forded during the greater portion of the
year at the present site of Duncan's Mill, but in the Winter season both the
river and the creek become swollen by the rains, and are veritable mountain
torrents. The water rushes seaward with relentless fury, and everything in its
pathway is swept into the broad bosom of the Pacific. There is no place however
within the limits of this township on the river which affords water power
privileges. It is a beautiful mountain stream and abounds in certain kinds of fish.

   Topography.—The topography of this Township is very varied; extending from
the level valley to the high mountain peaks. There is but comparatively little
level land in it, and but little but what is so nearly set upon edge that it
cannot be practically farmed, that portion of it lying south of the Russian
River and also that along the ocean is well adapted to grazing and dairying
purposes, but farther in the interior the mountains are very steep and high, and
afford only timber. Of course these mountains are interspersed with rich valleys
which are very productive. A birds-eye view of the whole township would reveal
one grand panoramic view of hill and dale, of mountain and valley, extending
over its entire length and breadth, threaded from east to west, near its
southern end by the Russian river, and near its eastern border by Austin creek.
At the north west corner, Black mountain stands out in bold relief rearing its
head high above the ocean level.

   Soil.—The soil of this township is made up of sandy loams and different
clays. There is no adobe in it. The sandy loams are found in all the valleys and
on the knolls and hillocks, while the mountain sides are covered with clays. The
loams are very productive, all kinds of cereals and tubers thrive in them. The
clays grow good grazing grasses quite profusely, while all lands of trees and
vines find their native element in them.

   Climate.—The climate of this township is generally pleasant and cool though
in the valleys it sometimes becomes oppressively warm. Fogs are quite common,
coming in from the sea early in the afternoon, and remaining to cast a shadow of
gloom over the face of nature till the day is well advanced. Strong winds
prevail along the coast and rush up the valleys leading from the ocean, with
great force, radiating into the various side valleys, thus reducing the
temperature in them, making their climate the most temperate and salubrious.
During the winter season it is not so cold as farther in the interior, it being
so near the ocean.

   Products.—The products of the township are as varied as is the face of the
country. In the valleys the finest of wheat, oats, barley and corn is grown,
also fruits, grapes, berries, melons, and all kinds of vegetables grow in rank
luxuriance. On the hill sides fruit trees and vines thrive the best. The
principal exports, however, are lumber, fence posts, cord wood, tan-bark and
charcoal. There seems to be an almost boundless supply of the last named
articles in the hills and mountains of this township, thus affording employment
for a large force of men during the greater portion of the year. Of these, of
course, lumber is the principal product and export. Extensive forests of redwood
abound in this section and their yield of lumber is enormous. To give an idea of
the great amount of lumber in this township we will give the estimates made in
1877 by the various mill proprietors in the township: Duncan's Mill Land and
Lumber Company own three thousand six hundred acres on the north side of Russian
river, which will yield say two hundred and sixteen million feet. The Russian
River Land and Lumber Association own nine thousand acres lying west of Howard's
Canon and south of Russian river, on which there is say four hundred and fifty
million feet of lumber. This would make a total at that time of six hundred and
sixty-six million feet in this township. Since then, it is not probable that
over ten milion [sic] feet have been cut as the mills have not been running
lately, leaving say at least six hundred and fifty million feet still standing.
Next to lumber in the amount of export may probably be ranked fence posts. Of
these there is a boundless supply, as there is enough timber in one of those
giant redwoods to make enough posts to load a train of cars. Next in amount
exported comes cordwood. This wood is mostly pine and oak. The bark is stripped
from the oak tree and it is then worked up into cordwood and sent to market. Tan
bark is no mean item of export, every train almost taking cars loaded with it to
the city. Large quantities of charcoal are also burned in this section and
shipped to San Francisco. Another export from the redwood section is the pickets
used so extensively in this and adjoining counties in constructing rough picket
fences. Some little grain is shipped to market, but the most of it is used for
home consumption, while hay is an item of import, as large quantities of it are
consumed by the many teams employed in this section. Fruits and vegetables are
mostly disposed of in the local markets. Dairy products form no inconsiderable
item of export during the year.

   Early Settlement.—The settlement of this township does not date back as far
as many others in the county. From the fact that it was so rough and mountainous
it did not appear to be a very desirable location for a home, and while better
places remaimed [sic] to be had for the asking as it were, no one seemed
inclined to locate here. It is probable that Henry Austin was about the first
settler in the township. However, the following named gentlemen all came in
about the same time, 1856, and it is probable that as much honor is due to one
as to another: Hugh Breen, Mr. Jackson, Philip Crauley, John Orr, James
Sheridan, F. Sheridan, and J. Chenneworth. All these gentlemen took up claims,
and many of them remain there to this day. Mr. Orr chanced to locate his claim
where the now beautiful little town of Duncan's Mill is situated, and now has
the satisfaction of having seen the dense wilderness of twenty-four years ago
converted into a coterie of happy homes. He has accepted the new order of things
with good grace and may be found any day at his place of business, a hale,
genial gentleman, full to overflowing with the genuine old pioneer
free-heartedness. Things went on very quietly in that far-away mountain section
among the old settlers until 1860, when Messrs. S. M. & A. Duncan began
operations, at a, point one and one-half miles inland from the mouth of Russian
River, on a saw-mill. Soon the woodman's ax was heard on all the hill sides in
that section and the hum of the saw began to fill the valleys with its music.
Everything was then life and animation. Soon quite a little town sprung up; a
store and hotel were opened. A post-office was established here, December 20,
1862, with Thos. Beacom Postmaster; there was also a telegraph and express
office in the town. Everything flourished in the village. Communication with the
city was had by schooner in the earlier days of the town's existence, but it was
subsequently supplemented by a fine steamer, the "Ellen Duncan." For seventeen
years the ceaseless whir of the saw and the crack of the woodsman's ax was heard
in the valleys and on the hill sides adjacent to the mill site, and even
extending their operations far up the river, floating the logs down on its
bosom. But there came a time when a change must be made. The trees were too far
away from the mill to be profitable. Just at this time, in 1877, the North
Pacific Coast Narrow Gauge Railroad had reached the Russian River, and a
question arose where it should make its terminus. Mr. Duncan, being just on the
eve of a change, was consulted in the matter, and after due mutual consideration
the present site of the town of Duncan's Mill was decided upon as the best place
to cross the river and the most suitable location for a town site.

   Duncan's Mill.—As stated above, the establishment of the site on which the
town of Duncan's Mill now stands was the result of a conference between the
officers of the North Pacific Coast Railroad and Mr. A. Duncan, the parties most
interested. In the Spring of 1877 Mr. Duncan moved his mill to its present
location, and the Railroad constructed a handsome and durable bridge across the
Russian river, just below the mill, and erected the necessary station buildings,
and also an engine house. Mr. Duncan, and his son, S. M. Duncan, erected elegant
residences. The residence of Mr. A. Duncan is especially worthy of note, being
situated on an eminence to the northward of the town it commands a lovely view
of the town and adjacent valley. Its rooms are spacious and everything about it
has an air of substantial and ornamental utility. In the center of the town
stands the Russian River Hotel, a very large and spacious building, having room
for the accommodation of a great number of guests. During the Summer season this
house is more than full of guests, as the town is fast growing into favor as a
place of resort. It certainly deserves to be a favorite with the pleasure and
health seeker. It lies nestled amid the mountains, on the banks of a most
beautiful stream of water. Rambles on the mountain sides and boating upon the
stream can be indulged in by the gentler sex, while a broad field for the
operations of the Nimrod lies on every side of the town. Communication with the
city is quick and comfortable. The North Pacific Coast Railroad trains make the
round trip to San Francisco and back daily, while on Sundays an excursion-train
is run from that city to Duncan's Mill and return. The road passes through some
of the most lovely mountain views to be found on the Pacific coast. The scenery,
as the trains sweep through Howard's canon is one grand kaleidoscopic panorama,
each curve of the road, and there are hosts of them, revealing some new and
beautiful vista. Communication northward is had by a line of stages, owned and
operated by Messrs. Allman & Queen. The business is under the immediate control
of Mr. Queen, and he has made the route a great favorite with the traveling
public.    The stages leave daily for Mendocino City.

   The business interests of the town are represented by one saw-mill, two
hotels, one store, one saloon, one meat market, one blacksmith shop, one shoe
shop, one livery and stage stable, and one notion store. The official directory
is as follows : S. M. Duncan, Postmaster; Thos. Beacom, Justice of the Peace;
Chas. H. Thompson, Constable; C. Queen, Agent Wells, Fargo & Co., and M. Moses,
Telegraph Operator and Station Agent.

   Brotherhood Lodge, F. & A. M.—Brotherhood Lodge, No. 251, F. & A. M., was
organized Under Dispensation, June 8, 1878. The charter members were John Orr,
Thomas Beacom, Silas D. Ingraham, Samuel Rien, A. H. Heffron, James Sheridan, S.
M. Duncan, Charles E. Tibbetts, B. R. Wiltse, A. S. Patterson, and Charles F.
Roix. The officers U. D. were: John Orr, W. M.; B. R. Wiltse, S. W.; Charles E.
Tibbetts. J. W.; Samuel Rien, Treasurer; and S. M. Duncan, Secretary. The same
gentlemen have been continued in their respective offices till the present time.
The present membership is sixteen, and more are being added from time to time.
The Lodge meets in a nice hall arranged expressly for their use, and will
shortly now be finely furnished.

   Presbyterian Church.—The Duncan's Mill Presbyterian Church was organized in
June, 1878, with the following names upon the church roll: Mrs. Alex. Duncan,
Thomas Beacom, S. M. Duncan, P. Shaw, and William Fleming. Reverend Hugh McLeod
organized the Church, and is the present pastor. There is a Sabbath School
connected with the church, which is well attended by old as well as young.

   Schools.—The one great redeeming feature of California is its public school
system, and no matter how far removed one is from the great centers of
habitation, even amid the wildest and most rugged mountains, there will he found
the school-house. And so it is in this township. Here, in the very heart of the
wilderness, are found enough schools to accommodate all the children. The
Scotta, Ocean, Laurel Hill, and Duncan's Mill Districts include all the
territory in the township. The school at Duncan's Mill is, of course, the
largest and best attended.

   Mills.—There are several very large saw-mills in this township, in fact,
there is more mill capacity in it than in any other in the county at the present
time, aggregating about one hundred and fifty thousand feet daily. The Duncan's
Mill Land and Lumber Association's mill will cut thirty thousand feet a day. The
mills owned by the Russian River Land and Lumber Association at Moscow, Tyrone,
Russian River Station, and at other points in the Howard Canon, will each cut
thirty thousand feet daily; none of the mills belonging to the last named
association are running at the present time, but the mill of the first named is
in operation. To give a history of Duncan's mill, we must needs go back to the
pioneer days both of California and of saw-milling. In 1849 a number of
carpenters, employed in the erection of the barracks at Benicia. conceived the
idea of forming into a company and starting a saw-mill. Lumber at that time was
worth three hundred dollars per thousand feet, and of course at that rate the
business would pay far better profits than even mining. The company was
organized under the name of the Blumedale Saw-mill and Lumber Co., in honor of
F. G. Blume, of whom they leased the timber land. It was located on Ebabias
creek, in Analy township, a few miles east of the present site of Freestone.
Chas. McDermot was President, and John Bailiff, Secretary of the company. They
formed the company and rented the land in 1848, but it was not until November of
1849 that the mill was got into operation, hut by this time the price of lumber
had so materially decreased, and the expense of getting it to market was so
great, that but little lumber was ever cut by this company. In 1850, Gen. George
Stoneman (then lieutenant), Joshua Hendy, and Samuel M. Duncan purchased the
property of the Blumedale Mill and Lumber Co., and continued to run it at that
place until the Spring of 1852. In the meantime, however, either late in 1851 or
early in 1852, Stoneinan disposed of his interest to his partners, and they
continued in business under the firm name of Hendy & Duncan.

   In 1852, Messrs. Hendy & Duncan moved their mill to a mining camp known as
Yankee Jim's. Here they remained a year, and in 1853 the machinery was moved to
Michigan Bluffs, another mining town. In 1854 they brought the machinery back to
Sonoma county, locating at Salt Point and establishing the first steam saw-mill
in Sonoma county, north of Russian river. Up to this time the capacity of the
mill had only been five thousand feet per day, but the new boilers were
procured, making it a sixteen-horse power engine, and increasing the capacity to
twelve thousand feet a day. In 1855, Joshua Hendy disposed of his interest to
Alex. Duncan, and under the firm name of Duncan Brothers, the business was
conducted very successfully at this point until 1860, when the mill was moved to
the old mill site near the mouth of Russian river.

   While at Salt Point they sawed thirty million feet of lumber, being an
average of five million per year. At the time the mill was moved to Russian
river, its machinery was greatly enlarged and improved, and its capacity
increased to twenty-five thousand per diem. While the mill was located at this
place, they cut about one hundred million feet of lumber. No one has any
conception of what those figures mean, or how much lumber ^it is; yet even that
great number would have been greatly increased, had it not been that almost
every year large quantities of logs were carried out to sea during the freshets.
The winter of 1862 was the worst, carrying away probably seven million feet of
lumber in the, logs. It seemed almost impossible to construct booms strong
enough to withstand the mighty force of the raging floods of water. In 1877, the
Duncan's Mill, Land and Lumber Association was formed, and the mill moved to its
present location. At that time it was enlarged to a capacity of thirty-five
thousand feet per day, which is about the greatest capacity of any mill in this
section. The machinery in the mill consists of one pair of double circular saws,
each sixty inches in diameter; one pony saw, forty inches in diameter ; one
muley saw, capable of cutting a log eight feet in diameter; two planing
machines, one picket header, one shingle machine, together with edgers,
jointers, trimmers, and all the necessary machinery and appliances for
conducting the business of sawing and working up lumber expeditiously.

   We will now give a detailed description of the modus operandi of converting
monster redwood trees into lumber, as we saw it done at this mill. We will begin
with the tree as it stands on the mountain side. The woodsman chooses his tree,
then proceeds to build a scaffold up beside it that will elevate him to such a
height as he may decide upon cutting the stump. Many of the trees have been
burned about the roots, or have grown ill-shaped near the ground, so that it is
often necessary to build the scaffold from, ten to twenty feet high. This
scaffold, by the way, is an ingenious contrivance. Notches are cut at intervals
around the tree at the proper height, deep enough for the end of a cross-piece
to rest in securely. One end of the cross-piece is then inserted in the notch,
and the other is made fast to an upright post, out some distance from the tree.
Loose boards are then laid upon these cross-pieces, and the scaffold is
completed. The work of felling the tree then begins. If the tree is above four
feet in diameter an ax is used with an extra long helve, when one man works
alone, but the usual method is for two men to work together, one chopping
"right-handed " and the other "left-handed." When the tree is once down it is
carefully trimmed up as far as it will do for saw-logs. A cross-cut saw is now
brought into requisition, which one man plies with ease in the largest of logs,
and the tree is cut into the required lengths. The logs are then stripped of
their bark, which process is accomplished sometimes by burning it off. Then the
ox-team puts in an appearance. These teams usually consist of three or more yoke
of oxen. The chain is divided into two parts near the end, and on the end of
each part there is a nearly right-angled hook. One of these hooks is driven into
either side of the log, near the end next the team, and then, with many a surge,
a gee, and a haw, and an occasional (?) oath, the log is drawn out to the main
trail to the landing-place. If on the road there should be any up hill, or
otherwise rough ground, the trail is frequently wet, so that the logs may slip
along the more easily. Once at the landing-place, the hooks at the end of the
chain are withdrawn, and the oxen move slowly back into the woods for another
log. The train has just come up, and our log, a great eight-foot fellow, is
carefully loaded on one of the cars. As we go along the track on this novel
train on our road to the mill let us examine it a little. Beginning at the
foundation, we will look at the track first. We find that the road-bed has been
well graded, cuts made where necessary, fills made when practicable, and trestle
work constructed where needed. On the ground are laid heavy cross-ties, and on
them a six by six square timber. On this an iron bar, about half an inch thick
and two and a half inches wide, is spiked the entire length of the track. The
two rails are Hive feet and five inches apart, and the entire length of the
tramway is five miles. Now we come to the cars which run on this
queerly-constructed track. They are made nearly square, but so arranged that by
fastening them together with ropes a combination car of almost any length can be
formed. And lastly, but by no means the least, we come to the
peculiarly-contrived piece of machinery which they call a "dummy," which is the
motor power on this railroad. This engine, boiler, tender and all, stands on
four wheels, each about two and a half feet in diameter. They are connected
together on each side by a shaft. On the axle of the front pair of wheels is
placed a large cog-wheel. Into this a very small cog-wheel works, which is on a
shaft, to which the power of the engine is applied. There is an engineer on
either side of the boiler, and they have a reverse lever, so that the "dummy"
can go one way as well as another. By the cog-wheel combination great power is
gained, but not so much can be said for its speed, though a maximum of five
miles an hour can be obtained. On our way to the mill we passed through a little
village of shanties and cottages, which proved to be the residences of the
choppers and men engaged in the woods. Farther on we pass through a barren,
deserted section, whence the trees have all been cut years ago, and naught but
their blackened stumps stand now, grim vestiges of the pristine glory of the
forest primeval. Now we pass around a grade, high, overhanging the river, and
with a grand sweep, enter the limits of the mill-yard. Our great log is rolled
off the car on to the platform, and in his turn passes to the small car used for
drawing logs up into the mill. A long rope attached to a drum in the mill is
fastened to the car, and slowly, but surely, it travels up to the platform near
the saw. Our log is too large to go at once to the double circular, hence the
"muley," a long saw, similar to a cross-cut saw, only it is a rip saw, and
stands perpendicular, must rip it in two in the middle to get it into such a
size that the double circular can reach through it. This is rather a slow
process, and as we have nearly thirty minutes on our hands while waiting for our
log to pass through this saw, let us pay a visit to the shingle machine. This we
find on a lower floor. The timber out of which shingles are made is cut into
triangular or wedge-shaped pieces, about four feet long, and about sixteen
inches in diameter. These are called "bolts." The first process is to saw them
off into proper lengths. These blocks are then fastened into a rack, which
passes by a saw, and as the rack passes back a ratchet is brought into
requisition, which moves the bottom of the block in toward the saw, just the
thickness of the thick end of the shingle and the top end in to correspond with
the thickness of the thin end. The block is then shoved past the saw, and a
shingle is made, except that the edges are, of course, rough, and the two ends
probably not at all of the same width. To remedy all this, the edge of the
shingle is subjected to a trimmer, when it becomes a first-class shingle. They
are packed into bunches, and are then ready for the market. We will now return
to our log. It has just been run back on the carriage, and awaits further
processes. A rope attached to a side drum is made fast to one-half of it, and it
is soon lying on its back on the carriage in front of the double circular saws.
Through this it passes in rapid rotation till it is sawed into broad slabs of
the proper thickness to make the desired lumber. It is then passed along on
rollers to the "pony" saw, when it is again cut in pieces of lumber of different
sizes as required, such as two by four, four by four, four by six, etc. It is
then piled upon a truck and wheeled into the yard, and piled up ready for the
market. The other half of the log is sawed into boards, three-quarters of an
inch thick At the " pony" saw, part of it is ripped into boards, ten inches
wide, and part into plank, four inches wide.   The boards, ten inches wide, pass
along to a planing machine, and it comes out rustic siding. The four-inch plank
passes through another planing machine, and comes out tongued and grooved
ceiling. The heavy slabs which we saw come off the first and second time the saw
passed through the log are cut into different lengths, and sawed into the right
size for pickets. They are then passed through a planer, then through a
picket-header, a machine with a series of revolving knives, which cut put the
design of the picket-head the same as the different members of a molding are cut
out. Thus have we taken our readers through the entire process of converting the
mighty forest monarchs into lumber. We hope we have succeeded in making the
description of the process, in a small measure at least, as interesting to our
readers as it was to us when, for the first time, we witnessed it. When you have
witnessed the process of making lumber in one mill you have seen it in all, with
the exception of here and there a minor detail. There are but few mills which
use a "dummy" engine to draw their logs to the mill, most of them using horses
or cattle on the tramways. The lumber and wood industries of this township will
always make it of considerable importance, and a prosperous future may
reasonably be expected.



Additional Comments:
Extracted from:

HISTORY
—OF-
SONOMA COUNTY,
-INCLUDING ITS—
Geology, Topooraphy, Mountains, Valleys and Streams;
—TOGETHER WITH—
A Full and Particular Record of the Spanish Grants; Its Early History and
Settlement, Compiled from the Most Authentic Sources; the Names of Original
Spanish and American Pioneers; a full Political History, Comprising the Tabular
Statements of Elections and Office-holders since the Formation of the County;
Separate Histories of each Township, Showing the Advancement of Grape and Grain
 Growing Interests, and Pisciculture;
ALSO, INCIDENTS OF PIONEER LIFE; THE RAISING OF THE BEAR FLAG; AND BIOGRAPHICAL
SKETCHES OF EARLY AND PROMINENT SETTLERS AND REPRESENTATIVE MEN;
—AND OF ITS—
Cities, Towns, Churches, Schools, Secret Societies, Etc., Etc.
ILLUSTRATED.

SAN FRANCISCO:
ALLEY, BOWEN & CO., PUBLISHERS.
1880.

Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1879, by ALLEY, BOWEN & Co.,
in the office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington, D. C.

PACIFIC PRESS,
Oakland, Cal. Printers., Stereotypers and Binders.

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