Sonoma County CA Archives History - Books .....Salt Point Township 1880
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Book Title: History Of Sonoma County

SALT POINT.

   Geography.—Salt Point township lies at the extreme northwest corner of Sonoma
county. It is bounded on the north by Mendocino county, on the east by Mendocino
township, on the south by Ocean township, and on the west by the Pacific ocean.
It is among the largest townships in the county. There are no navigable streams
in it. The Valhalla river runs along its northern boundary, and forms the
dividing line between it and Sonoma county. This river is of no commercial
importance, serving only for the purpose of rafting logs to the mill, situated
near its mouth, in Mendocino county. Its south fork extends into this township
for some distance, being but a mere creek for the most of the way.

   Topography.—The general surface of Salt Point is very rough and broken. There
are no valleys of level land worth mentioning as such in the entire township.
There are no mountains of prominence, yet the entire section is very hilly. Near
Fort Ross there is an extended section of level country; and it is the boast of
the residents of that place that they are able to lay out a half-mile race track
on quite level ground—a luxury denied all other sections of the township.

   Soil.—The soil is mostly of a clayey nature, owing to the fact that the
greater part is situated on the mountain sides. In the valleys it is a sandy
loam. The clayey soil is well adapted to the growing of vines and trees, while
the valleys are productive of vegetables, etc. To tell the truth, there is a
remarkable sparseness of soil in almost the entire township, except in the small
valleys.

   Climate.—The climate, although the township borders on the ocean, is far
different from that of Bodega. On the margin of the ocean it is very foggy
during a greater portion of the year. The trade winds strike it fair, and of
course this makes it very cool during the Summer months, and sometimes
disagreeably chilly, but a few miles in the interior the climate is as different
as it is fifty miles away. The heavy belt of timber which skirts the ocean
serves to break the force and effect of the trade winds, while the fogs are
condensed by it to such an extent that but comparatively little ever reaches the
valleys a short distance inland. It is consequently warm and dry, and withal
pleasant and healthful. In that section it is remarkable that during the day the
air in the valleys is very warm, while on the mountain tops a breath of the sea
breeze cools and refreshes everything, while at night it is reversed, and at the
bottoms of the valleys the air is cool and often very damp with falling due,
while on the mountain tops it is dry and warm.

   Mr. Call has been the possessor of a rain gauge for the last five years and
during that time has carefully measured and kept a record of the rainfall. He
finds the average at Fort Ross to be about fifty inches annually. As compared
with San Francisco there does not appear to be any great difference in the
number of rainy days, but there seems to be more than twice as much at Ross. No
complaint is made of this, however, for the country is mountainous and the water
runs off the hills doing no harm. In dry years the benefit is of course great.
In the dry season of 1865-6, the fall at Fort Ross was thirty-one inches, and
while the other parts of the State suffered the dairymen along the Sonoma coast
had an exceptionally good year. Mr. Call states that he has not yet seen a year
when the rains of October were not sufficient to start the growth of the grass,
and the following rains sufficient to keep it growing until June, and as there
is but little frost—in some years none at all—on the coast, it will be judged
that the district in and around Fort Ross is the very best dairy and stock
raising district on the Pacific coast.

   Products.—The products of this township are confined almost exclusively to
lumber, shingles, cord-wood, fence-posts, tan-bark, railroad ties and fence
pickets. Not enough of anything else is produced, with the exception of dairy
products, for home consumption. There are a few extensive dairies and some very
extensive stock farms in the township. Fruits, vines and vegetables do well in
little patches here and there, where protected from the fogs and winds, and
reached by the warm rays of the sun; outside of this, but little of this nature
is grown.

   Early Settlement.—It is probable that the settlement of this section by the
Russians was contemporaneous with that of Bodega township. It is quite probable
that when Alexander Koskoff and his company began to establish themselves at
Romanzoff or Bodega bay in January, 1811, he found strenuous opposition from the
Spanish authorities of California, who always looked upon the Russians as
usurpers of the soil and were always ready to embrace any and all opportunities
to drive them off. Open warfare was threatened and the Russians had reason to
believe that the threats would be carried out. There was another enemy to ward
against—the Indians—over whom the Spaniards, through the missions, had absolute
control, and the Russians apprehended that this power would be used against
them. Several expeditions were organized by the Spanish to march against the
Russians, and while they all came to naught, yet they served to cause them to
seek for some stronghold of refuge in case of an attack. They did not care to
seek for this stronghold at any point nearer the bay of San Francisco, as this
would bring them nearer the enemy, hence they went in an opposite direction. The
Russians would doubtless have been glad to have adopted a laissez-faire policy
towards the Spanish, and would have been very well satisfied to have let them
alone if they would only have retaliated in like manner; fearing, however, to
trust the Spaniards, the new Muscovite settlers at once proceeded to search for
a location which would afford them natural protection from their enemies. In
passing up the coast to the northward they came to the level and extensive tract
lying adjacent to the present site of Fort Ross. Here they found everything they
could desire. Vast meadows stretched to the eastward affording pasture to flocks
without number.

    "This is the forest primeval; the murmuring pines and the hemlocks,
     Bearded with moss and in garments green, indistinct in the twilight,
     Stand like Druids of eld, with voices sad and prophetic,
     Stand like harpers hoar, with beards that rest on their bosoms,
     Loud from its rocky caverns, the deep voiced neighboring ocean
     Speaks and in accents disconsolate, answers the wail of the forest."

   There was a beautiful little cove in which vessels might lie in safety from
the fury of the northern storms; near at hand was an ample stretch of beach, on
which their rude yet staunch argosie3 could be constructed and easily launched
upon the mighty deep; no more propitious place could have been found along the
entire coast of Sonoma county for the establishment of the headquarters of the
Russian colony. The location once chosen, they set to work with a will to
prepare their new homes. A site was chosen for the stockade near the shore of
the ocean, and in such a position as to protect all their ships lying in the
little cove, and prevent any vessels inimical to them from effecting a landing.
The plat of ground inclosed in this stockade was a parallelogram, two hundred
and eighty-eight feet wide and three hundred and twelve feet long, and contained
about two acres. Its angles were placed very nearly upon the cardinal points of
the compass. At the north and south angle there was constructed an octagonal
bastion, two stories high, and furnished with six pieces of artillery. These
bastions were built exactly alike, and were about twenty-four feet in diameter.
The walls were formed of hewed redwood logs, nicely mortised together at the
corners, and were about eight inches in thickness. The roof was conical-shaped,
having a small flag-staff at the apex. The stockade approached these towers in
such a way that one-half of them was within the inclosure and the other half on
the outside. The entrance to these was through small doors on the inside, while
there were embrasures both on the inside and the outside. They were thus
arranged so as to protect those within from an outside enemy, and to also have
all within under the range of the cannon, so that in case of an internal
eruption the officers could readily quell the trouble. The stockade was
constructed as follows: A trench was dug two feet deep, while every ten feet
along the bottom of the trench a hole was* dug one foot deep. In these holes
posts about six by ten inches were inserted, and between the posts and on the
bottom of the trenches there was a strong girder firmly mortised into the posts,
and fastened with a strong wooden pin. Slabs of varying widths, but all being
about six inches thick, were then placed in an upright position between the
first posts and resting on the girders in the trench, being firmly fastened to
them. At a distance up the posts of twelve feet from the lower girder, there was
run another girder, which was also mortised into the posts and made fast with
pins. These girders rested on the tops of the slabs mentioned as being placed
between the posts. These slabs were slotted at the top, and a piece of timber
passed into the slots, then huge wooden pins were passed down through the
girders and the piece in the slots and well into the body of the slab. The main
posts extended about three feet higher, and near the top a lighter girder was
run along, and between the last two mentioned there was a row of light slabs,
two inches thick and four inches wide, pointed at the top like pickets. It may
well be imagined, that when the trench was filled up with tamped rock and dirt
that this stockade was almost entirely invulnerable with the implements of
assault likely to be brought against it in those days of rude weapons of war.
All around the stockade there were embrasures suitable for the use of muskets or
caronades, of which latter, it is said, there were several in the fortress.

   On the northern side of the eastern angle there was erected a chapel which it
is said was used by the officers, alone, of the garrison. It was twenty-five by
thirty-one feet in dimensions, and strongly built, the outer wall forming a part
of the stockade, and the round port holes for the use of caronades, are queer
looking openings in a house of worship. The entrance was on the inside of the
fort, and consisted of a rude, heavy wooden door, held upon wooden hinges. There
was a vestibule about ten by twenty-five feet in size thus leaving the
auditorium twenty-one by twenty-five. In this, rude yet roomy and comfortable
benches were placed for seats, and two of these are still to be seen at Fort
Ross. From the vestibule an excessively narrow stairway leads to a low loft,
evidently not used for anything originally. The building was surmounted with two
domes, one of which was round and the other pentagonal in shape. It is said that
the Muscovites had a beautiful chime of bells in these towers, which used to
peal out the matins and vespers in the most mellifluous tones. The roof was made
of long planks, either sawed or rove from redwood, likewise the side of the
chapel in the fort. Some degree of carpenters' skill was displayed in the
constructing of this building. A faint attempt at getting out mouldings for the
inner door and window casings was made, a bead being worked around the outer
edge of the casing, and it was mitered at the corners.

   On the west side of the northern angle there was a two-story building,
twenty-eight by eighty feet in dimensions. This was a roughly constructed
building, and was doubtless used for barracks for the men of the garrison. The
framework of all the buildings was made of very large, heavy timbers, many of
them being twelve inches square. The rafters were all great, heavy, round pine
logs, many of them being six inches in diameter. On the northern side of  the
western angle there was a one-story building-twenty-nine by fifty feet,
constructed in a better style of workmanship, and was evidently used for
officers' quarters.

   On the southern side of the western angle was a one-story
building-twenty-five by seventy-five feet. This was probably used for a working
house, as various branches of industry were prosecuted within the walls. On the
eastern side of the southern angle there was a row of low shed buildings, which
were probably used for the purpose of stabling their stock and storing their feed.

   This includes the stockade and all its interior buildings. There were a
number of exterior buildings, and we will now turn our attention to them. Be it
known that there was a colony consisting of at least two hundred and fifty souls
at one time at this place. We will first notice the dwelling houses. We are
indebted to Ernest Rufus, of Sonoma, who went to Fort Ross in 1845, for much
valuable information in regard to the Russian economy. He states that there was
at that time a village of about twenty-five small dwelling houses on the north
side of the stockade. These houses were* in keeping with the houses of the
peasants already described in Bodega. They were small, being probably not over
twelve by fourteen feet in dimensions, and constructed from rough slabs riven
from redwood. These hardy Muscovites were so rugged and inured to the cold of
the higher latitudes that they cared not for the few cracks that might admit the
fresh, balmy air of the California winter mornings. Also, to the northward of
and near this village, situated on an eminence, was a wind-mill, which was the
motor for driving a single run of burrs, and also for a stamping machine used
for grinding tan-bark. This wind-mill produced all the flour used in that and
the Bodega settlements, and probably quite an amount was also sent with the
annual shipment to Sitka. The burrs were made of the sandstone indigenous to
that section, and seem to have answered the purpose well indeed. These stones
were about three feet in diameter, and one foot in thickness. One of them is
still lying on the site of Fort Ross. This was probably the first flour-mill of
any description north of San Francisco and in the State. The stamp for crushing
tan-bark was made of solid iron, and was about four inches square. It was hung
upon a crank, upon the main shaft of the wind wheel, and the motion was thus
given to it. It was a simple and very effective device, but required the
constant attention of an operator to turn the bark and stir it up. This mill and
stamp did good service for several years after the Americans came into
possession of it; but not a vestige is left of it now, save the stone. This
should certainly be cared for, in connection with the burr at the site of
Captain Smith's old mill in Bodega, by the Society of Pioneers.

   We will now follow this tan bark farther on and see what use it was put to by
the old Muscovites. To the south of the stockade, and in a deep gulch at the
debouchure of a small stream into the ocean, there stood a very large building,
probably eighty by a hundred feet in size. The rear half of it was used for the
purpose of tanning leather. There were six vats in all, constructed of heavy,
rough redwood slabs, and each with a capacity of fifty barrels. They had all the
usual appliances necessary to conduct a tannery, such as scrapers, mullers,
etc., but these implements were large and rough in their make. It is said,
however, that they were able to manufacture a very good quality of leather, and
did so in large quantities.

   The front half, or that fronting the ocean, was used as a work-shop for the
construction of ships. Ways were constructed on a sand beach at this point
leading into the deep water of the cove, and upon them were built a number of
staunch sea-going vessels. The very first ship or vessel of any kind which was
ever launched in California was set afloat at this place. It occurred about a
year previous to the launching of a vessel at Monterey. It was claimed by all
for years that the Monterey vessel was the first, but it has now been
established that it was not, this Russian vessel having about one year's
priority. These vessels all did good service, and one of them was sailing not
long ago. It is said that some of the first ones built here did not last very
long, owing to a sort of premature decay setting in. It was found that this was
owing to the fact that the redwood lumber was worked up into the vessel while
green. They afterwards seasoned all the lumber thoroughly, and had no more
trouble of this character. One of these vessels, a schooner, passed into Captain
Smith's hands, and he gave it the name of "Sacramento," and it is stated that
the street in San Francisco of that name derived its appellation from the fact
that this schooner made its landings at the foot of that street. Still farther
to the south, and near the ocean shore, stood a building eighty by a hundred,
which was evidently used by them as a store house. It was very strongly
constructed, and well adapted for this purpose. This building was blown down by
a storm July 16, 1878, and there will soon be nothing to mark its site.

   Tradition says that to the eastward of the fort and across the gulch, there
once stood a very large building, which was used as a church for the common
people of the settlement. Near this church the cemetery was located. A French
tourist once paid Fort Ross a visit. He arrived after dark, and asked permission
4o remain over night with the parties who at that time owned that portion of the
Muniz grant on which Fort Ross is located. During the evening the conversation
naturally drifted upon the old history of the place. The tourist displayed a
familiarity with all the surroundings which surprised the residents, and caused
them to ask if he had ever lived here with the Russians. He answered that he had
not, but that he had a very warm friend in St. Petersburg, who had spent thirty
years at this place as a Muscovite priest, and that he had made him a promise
upon his departure for California, about one year before, to pay a visit to the
scenes of the holy labors of the priest, and it was in compliance with this
promise that he was there at this time. Among the other things inquired about
was the church close to the cemetery mentioned above. All traces of this
building, had long since disappeared, and the settlers were surprised to hear
that it had ever stood there. The tourist assured them that the priest had
stated distinctly that such a building once stood there, and also that a number
of other buildings stood near it, used by the peasants for homes. Mr. Rufus
tells us that when the land went into disuse after the Russians had left, that
wild oats grew very rank, often reaching a height of ten feet, and that the
Indians were accustomed to set it on fire, and that during these conflagrations
the fences and many of the smaller houses of the Russians were consumed, and
that he well remembers that there were a number of small houses near the
cemetery, and that the blackened ruins of a very large building also remained,
which the half-breed Russo-Indians told him had been used for a church. The
tourist mentioned above stated that his friend, the priest, was greatly attached
to the place, as had been all who had lived in the settlement. They found the
climate genial, the soil productive, and the resources of the country great,
and, all in all, it was a most desirable place to live in.

   The Russians had farmed very extensively at this place, having at least two
thousand acres under fence, besides a great deal that was not fenced. Their
fence was chiefly what is known as rail and post, although there was some picket
fence also used more specially for small lots or for dividing fences. As stated
before, these fences nearly all perished in the wild, fires. Their agricultural
processes were as crude as any of their other work. Their plow was very similar
to the old Spanish implement, so common in this country at that time and still
extant in Mexico, with the exception that the Muscovite implement possessed a
moldboard. They employed oxen and cows, both for draft animals, using the old
Spanish yoke adjusted to their horns instead of to their necks. We have no
account of any attempt at constructing either cart or wagon, but it is probable
that they had carts similar to those described in this work as in use among the
Californians at that time. They also doubtless used sleds to a great extent for
transporting their produce. Their grain was cut with a scythe when it was ripe,
and transported on these sleds to the threshing-floor. This threshing-floor was
constructed differently from those common in the country at that time and
described elsewhere in this work. It was simply a floor composed of heavy
puncheons, circular in shape and elevated somewhat off the ground. Between the
puncheons there were interstices through which the grain fell to the ground
under the floor as it was released from the head. The threshing was done in this
manner: A layer of grain, in the straw, of a foot or two in thickness, was
placed upon the floor. Oxen were then driven over it, hitched to a log with rows
of wooden pegs inserted into it. As the log revolved, these pegs acted well the
part of a flail, and the straw was expeditiously relieved of its burden of
grain. It was doubtless no hard job to winnow the grain after it was threshed,
as the wind blows a stiff blast at that point during all the Summer months.

   The Russians constructed a wharf at the northern side of the little cove and
graded a road down the steep ocean shore to it. The grade is still to be seen,
as it passed much of the way through solid rock. This wharf was made fast to the
rocks on which it was constructed with long iron bolts. All that remains of the
wharf now is a few of the bolts driven into the rocks. It was gone before Mr.
Rufus went there, hence we are unable to give its dimensions or farther details
concerning it.

   These old Muscovites, doubtless, made the first lumber with a saw ever made
north of San Francisco bay. They had a pit and a whip-saw. The pit used by them
can be seen to this day. Judging from the number of stumps still standing, and
the extent of territory over which they extended their logging operations, they
evidently consumed very large quantities of lumber. The timber was only about
one mile distant from the shipyard and landing. The stumps of trees cut by them
are still standing, while beside them from one to six shoots have sprung up,
many of which have now reached a size sufficient for lumber purposes. This
growth has been remarkable, and goes to show that if proper care were taken each
half century would see a new crop of redwoods sufficiently large for all
practical purposes, while a century would see gigantic trees.

   As stated above, the cemetery lay to the eastward of the fort, about
one-fourth of a mile, and across a very deep gulch. It was near the church for
the peasants. There were never more than fifty graves in it, though all traces
are obliterated now of more than a dozen; most of them still remaining had some
sort of a wooden structure built over them. One manner of constructing these
mausoleums was to make a series of rectangular frames of square timbers, about
six inches in diameter, each frame a certain degree smaller than the one below
it. These were placed one above another until an apex was reached, which was
surmounted with a cross. Another method was to construct a rectangular frame of
heavy planking about one foot high. The top was covered over with two heavy
planks placed so as to be roof-shaped, others had simply a rude cross, others a
cross on which some mechanical skill was displayed, and one has a very large
round post standing high above the adjacent crosses. They are all buried in
graves dug due east and west, and, doubtless, with their heads to the west.
There are no inscriptions now to be seen upon any of the graves, and it is not
likely there ever were any. Some of them certainly contain children, judging
from their size. Silently are these sleeping in their far-away graves, where the
eyes of those who knew and loved them in their earthly life can never rest on
their tombs again, and while the eternal roar of the Pacific makes music in the
midnight watches will they await the great day that shall restore them to their
long-lost friends. Sleep on, brave hearts, and peaceful be thy silent slumber!

   In an easterly direction, and about one mile distant from the fort, there was
an enclosure, containing probably five acres. It was enclosed by a fence about
eight feet high, made of redwood slabs about two inches in thickness. These
slabs were driven into the ground, while the tops were nailed firmly to girders
extending from post to post, set about ten feet apart. Within the enclosure
there was an orchard of fruit trees planted, consisting of apples, prunes and
cherry trees. It is stated that all the old stock of German prunes in California
came from seed procured at this orchard. The apples were small seedlings, and
shaped much as an Eastern "sheep-nosed June apple," or rather they were
miniature "bell-flowers." At present there are about fifty apple and nine cherry
trees standing. They are moss-covered and gray with age, and many of them have
bowed their heads to the ground under the weight of their years. The fruit is
still pleasant to the taste, but is small and insignificant, when placed beside
the great, grafted, rosy-cheeked giants which are now grown in all of our
California valleys. But these Muscovite apples excel no apples at all, and there
was a day when they were much sought for in the San Francisco market. The
cherries were small and sour, and not of any particular excellence. At present
but little care is taken of the trees, and surrounded as they are with the wild
forest trees, one is reminded forcibly of some of "Johnny Apple-seed's" famous
orchards, planted in the wilds of the Ohio forests, years before the State was
settled.

   The Russians had a small settlement at a place now known as Russian Gulch.
They grew wheat here, evidently, for the remains of a ware-house are still to be
seen. They lightered their wheat out to the vessel, which was anchored off the
shore some distance. The wreck of the frame of one of their lighters can still
be seen near that point.

   There were several commanders or Colonial Governors who had charge here, but
the names of all save the first, Alexander Koskoff, and the last, Rotscheff,
have been lost even to tradition. General William T. Sherman relates a pleasant
incident in his "Memoirs," which is called to mind by the mention of the name of
Rotscheff. It will be remembered that this man had a wife whose beauty was
famous throughout the whole section—truly a second Helen, for the capture and
possession of whom even military expeditions were organized. The incident is as
follows: While lying at anchor in a Mediterranean port, the vessel on which
Sherman was traveling was visited by the officers of a Russian naval vessel.
During the exchange of courtesies and the course of conversation, one of the
Russian officers took occasion to remark to Sherman that he was an American by
birth, having been born in the Russian colony in California, and that he was the
son of one of the colonial rulers. He was doubtless the son of Rotscheff and his
beautiful bride, the Princess de Gagarin, in whose honor Mount St. Helena was
christened. We have thus fully set forth all the facts concerning the Russian
occupancy, and their habits, manners, buildings, occupations, etc. We will now
trace the causes which led to their departure from the genial shores of
California and then bid them adios. It is stated that the promulgation of the
Monroe doctrine caused them to leave; but that is hardly the fact, for they
remained seventeen years after this policy was announced and accepted by the
nations of Europe. It is, however, probably true, that European nations had
something to do with it, for it is clearly shown in another chapter of this
work, that" both France and England had an eye upon this territory, and both
hoped some day to possess it. As long as the Russians maintained a colony here,
they had a prior claim to the territory; hence they must be got rid of. The
Russians also r, cognized the fact that the Americans were beginning to come
into the country in quite large numbers, and that it was inevitable that they
would soon overrun and possess it. The subsequent train of events proved that
their surmises were perfectly correct. One thing, however, is evident, and that
is, that they did not depart at the request or behest of either the Spanish or
Mexican governments. It is almost certain that the Russians contemplated a
permanent settlement at this point when they located here, as this section would
provide them with wheat, an article much needed for the supply of their colonies
in the far north. Of course as soon as the Spanish authorities came to know of
their permanent location, word was sent of the fact to the headquarters at
Madrid. In due course of time, reply came from the seat of government ordering
the Muscovite intruders to depart. To this peremptory order their only answer
was that the order had been forwarded-to St. Petersburg for the action of the
Emperor.

   Some time later, probably about 1816, a Russian vessel anchored in the bay of
San Francisco. The Spanish authorities complained of Koskoff to the commander of
the vessel, and a conference was held concerning the matter, but nothing came of
it. The commandants under the Mexican regime, in later years, organized several
military expeditions for the purpose of marching against the intruders, but no
real march in that direction was ever made. For more than a quarter of a century
they continued to hold undisturbed possession of the disputed territory, and
prosecuted their farming, stock-raising, hunting, trapping and ship-building
enterprises. However, whatever were the causes which led to it, there finally
came a time when the Russian authorities had decided to withdraw the California
colony. The proposition was made first by them to the Government authorities at
Monterey, to dispose of their interests here, including their title to the land.
As the authorities had never recognized their right or title to the land, and
did not wish to do so now, they refused to purchase. Application was next made
to General M. G. Vallejo, but on the same grounds he refused to purchase. They
then applied to Captain John A. Sutter, a gentleman at that time residing near
where Sacramento city now stands. Capt. Sutter had come to the country from
Sitka, some years before, on board of one of their vessels. They persuaded
Sutter into the belief that their title was good, and could be maintained; so,
after making out a full invoice of the articles they had for disposal, including
all the land lying between Point Reyes and Point Mendocino, and one league
inland, as well as cattle, farming and mechanical implements; also, a schooner,
of one hundred and eighty tons burthen, some arms, a four-pound brass
field-piece, etc., a price was decided upon. The amount paid by Sutter was
thirty thousand dollars. This was not all paid at one time, but in installments
of a few thousand dollars at a time. The last payment was made by Sutter through
ex-Governor Burnett, in  1849. Sutter paid the entire amount in cash, and not a
part in cash and the remainder in wheat and real estate, as has been stated to
us by old settlers. E. V. Sutter, of San Francisco, a son of the General, is our
authority for the above statements. All the stipulations of the sale having been
arranged satisfactorily to both parties, the transfer was duly made, and Sutter
became, as he thought the greatest land-holder in California. The grants given
by the Mexican Government seemed mere bagatelles, compared with his almost
provincial possessions. But, alas! for human hopes and aspirations; for in
reality he had paid an enormous price for a very paltry compensation of personal
and chattel property. It is apropos to remark here that in 1859 Sutter disposed
of his Russian claim, which was a six-eighths interest in the lands mentioned
above, to William Muldrew, George R. Moore and Daniel W. Welty, but they only
succeeded in getting six thousand dollars out of one settler. The remainder
refused to pay, and the claim was dropped. Some of the settlers were inclined to
consider the Muldrew claim, as it is called, a black-mailing affair, and to
censure General Sutter for disposing of it to them, charging that he sanctioned
the black-mailing process, and was to share in its profits, but we will say in
justice to the General, that so far as he was concerned, there was no idea of
black-mail on his part. He supposed that he did purchase a bona fide claim and
title to the land in question, of the Russians, and has always considered the
grants given by the Mexican Government as bogus, hence in giving this quit-claim
deed to Muldrew et al., he sincerely thought that he was deeding that to which
he alone had any just or legal claim.

   Orders were sent to the settlers at Fort Ross to repair at once to San
Francisco bay, and ships were dispatched to bring them there, where whaling
vessels, which were bound for the northwest whaling grounds, had been chartered
to convey them to Sitka. The vessels arrived at an early hour in the day, and
the orders shown to the commander, Rotscheff, who immediately caused the bells
to be rung in the chapel towers, and the cannon to be discharged, this being the
usual method of convocating the people at an unusual hour, or for some special
purpose, so everything was suspended just there—the husbandman left his plow
standing in the half-turned furrow, and unloosed his oxen, never again to yoke
them, leaving them to wander at will over the fields; the mechanic droped his
planes and saws on the bench, leaving the half-planed board still in the vise;
the tanner left his tools where he was using them, and dropped his apron to don
it no more in California. As soon as the entire population had assembled
Rotscheff arose and read the orders. Very sad and unwelcome, indeed, was this
intelligence, but the edict had emanated from a source which could not be
gainsaid, and the only alternative was speedy and complete compliance, however
reluctant it might be. And thus four hundred people were made homeless by the
fiat of a single word. Time was only given to gather up a few • household
effects, and some of the choicest keepsakes, and they were hurried on board the
ships. Scarcely time was given to those whose loved ones were sleeping in the
graveyard near by, to pay a last sad visit to their resting place. Embarcation
was commenced at once,

    "And with the ebb of the tide the ships sailed out of the harbor,
     Leaving behind them the dead on the shore.

   And all the happy scenes of their lives, which had glided smoothly along on
the beautiful shores of the Pacific and in the garden-spot of the world. Sad and
heavy must have been their hearts, as they gazed for the last time upon the
receding landscape which their eyes had learned to love because it had been that
best of all places—HOME.

    "This is the forest primeval; but where are the hearts that beneath it
     Leaped like the roe, when he hears in the woodiand the voice of the huntsman!
     Waste are the pleasant farms, all the farmers forever departed!
     Scattered like dust and leaves, when the mighty blasts of October
     Seize them and whirl them aloft, and sprinkle them far over the ocean,
     Naught but tradition remains.        *        *        *
     Still stands the forest primeval; but under the shade of its branches
     Dwells another race, with other customs and language,
     While from its rocky caverns the deep-voiced neighboring ocean
     Speaks, and, in accents disconsolate, answers the wail of the forest."

   We will now pass to the settlement of the township by Americans. Sutter at
once sent a major domo to Fort Ross to look after his interests at that point.
Of all who were sent there by him during the next four or five years, only two
are known at the present time, viz.: John Bidwell and Wm. Benitz. Benitz went
there in the Spring of 1844 as major domo and spent that year in that capacity.
In the Spring of 1845, he rented the place from Sutter on certain conditions,
associating with him as partner Ernest Rufus, now of Sonoma valley. They took a
contract to grow potatoes for a firm in Yerba Buena. They raised an abundance of
potatoes and had them snugly stored in the old Russian buildings, but the vessel
which was sent up for them was lost, and the potatoes rotted and were carted out
and thrown into the sea. These enterprising Germans made good use of all the
Russian appliances which they found at the place. Their wheat was threshed on
the old theshing-floor. It was made into flour in the old wind grist-mill. One
day Mr. Rufus concieved the idea of tanning leather in the old Russian tannery.
Among his effects he remembered to have a sort of an encyclopedia of scientific
information, and in it he found a recipe for tanning. He went at it with a will,
keeping his book ever before him, and following the directions strictly. He was
not very successful with the first lot of hides. He then went to a tannery
somewhere and learned wherein he had missed it in his process. He then took
another lot of hides through which came out very passable leather, indeed. His
nearest market was Monterey, and thither he hied himself with his roll of
leather on a pack pony. He found a ready sale for it, and continued for some
years to make more or less leather there.

   It is not known what name the Russians applied to the stockade now known as
Fort Ross, and it would not be out of place to state here how its present name
came to be applied to it. The Spaniards and Spanish-speaking people always spoke
of it as "Fuerte de los Rusos"—fort of the Russians. When Americans began to
speak of it, although speaking Spanish, they did away with the circumlocution of
the Spanish phrase and called it "Fuerte Rusos," which easily drifted into Fort
Ross when the Americans became more numerous, and less Spanish was heard in the
land. The Muniz Rancho, on which Fort Ross stands, was granted to Manuel Torres
December 4, 1845, by Pio Pico. Soon after this Benitz purchased Torres' title to
the rancho and refused to pay any farther rent to Sutter for the use of the
land. In the end, however, he paid some rental, as it was he who paid the sum of
six thousand dollars to quiet the Muldrew title. Benitz continued to reside here
for a number of years. He had a large band of well trained Indians, and it is
said that he could get more work out of them and managed them more
systematically than any other rancher in the State. He had a large bell which
was rung at six in the morning. The Indians all arose at the sound of the bell,
and having dressed, they formed in a line and marched up to the commissariat
when the rations for breakfast and a drink of whisky were issued to each man. At
seven they had their breakfast and were in the field at work. At half-past
eleven the bell rang again and all marched up again and received their
allowances, whisky included. Work was resumed at one in the afternoon. At six
the bell called them in from the labors of the day and rations and whisky were
again issued. Benitz finally disposed of the Muniz Rancho to various parties and
went to South America where he died a few years since.

   On the 8th day of April, 1846, Ernest Rufus applied for and received the
grant of the Rancho de Herman, or German grant, as it is called, which lies
north of the Muniz grant, and borders on the coast. It is usually asserted that
Henry Hagler was a partner with Mr. Rufus, but such was not the case. When Mr.
Rufus went to Los Angeles to make application for his grant he intended to have
Hagler as a partner, but was told by the authorities that owing to the fact,
that the land asked for bordered on the sea-shore it could be granted to only
one man, and that that man must be a tried and true man, one friendly to the
Government, and one who would look well to its defense along his domain in times
of war with an outside enemy. Such owners would be commissioned as officers at
such times, and expected to do military duty. The request of Rufus for the grant
was refused, as he had no one to vouch for his loyalty to the Mexican
Government. The next day, however, he chanced to meet an old friend, a relative
of Pio Pico, then Governor, who was an official, and who had known him in the
days of the "rebellion," as the little trouble between Castro and Manuel
Micheltorena was called, Rufus having been with Sutter in the service of the
latter. This friend at once proffered to vouch for Rufus, and the grant was
issued forthwith.

   Mr. Hagler was a good mechanic and a genius withal. It will be remembered
that he came to the county with Captain Smith as ship's carpenter in 1843. He
erected a grist mill on the Rancho de Herman, doing the entire wood and iron
work required in its construction right on the ground. He also cut the burs from
the native sandstone, and they worked very nicely. We are sorry that we are
unable to give more of this worthy pioneer's history. These gentlemen gave to
the river which formed the northern boundary of the ranch its beautiful
name—Valhalla.

   As stated above, there was a schooner included in the Sutter purchase for the
Russians. It was of one hundred and eighty tons burthen, and made at Fort Ross.
It was rechristened by its new possessor, and given the name of "Sacramento."
The following incident concerning this schooner was related to us by Mr. Rufus:
Captain Smith had disposed of a number of horses and provisions to Captain
Fremont, for which he had received an order on the United States Treasury for
the sum of four thousand dollars. It was a long way in those days from New
Helvetia to Washington, hence this order was of but little avail to Sutter for
present demands, and present demands with the hardy old pioneer just at that
time had become quite pressing demands. At length a proposition came from the
Hudson Bay Company to cash the order at a proper discount. He at once loaded his
schooner "Sacramento" with a cargo of such articles as "would be saleable, and
started it to the headquarters of that company on the far away northern coast,
under the command of a master named Yates, who also had the order on the United
States in his charge. One night after the vessel had been gone about a
fortnight, Sutter had invited a few of his neighbors in to sample some choice
wines of which he had lately become possessed. As a matter of course the most of
them became somewhat drowsy, quite late in the evening, and were sitting or
lying around in happy confusion. Presently a loud rap was heard at the outer
gate of the fort, which Sutter at once recognized as, that of one of his many
servants at Fort Ross, and who was known as "Kanaka Charley." Upon hearing the
well-known knock of his servant, he hastened to the gate and admitted him,
knowing full well that matters of no small import had brought him to the fort at
that hour of the night. His dismay and amazement can be better imagined than
described, when he had read the note borne by Charley. It was from Captain
Yates, of the schooner, and it stated that the schooner had gone ashore at Fort
Ross, and that the order had been cast overboard in a trunk, hoping that it
would drift ashore, but that on the contrary it had been carried out to sea and
lost. The sturdy old German did not fly into a passion and deliver himself of a
volume of expletives, as might be expected. No, not he. He reread the note more
deliberately, then going back to the room where his friends were gathered, he
filled every glass to the brim, then rousing all of them up he read the note,
and at once proposed a hearty toast. We are glad to be able to state that the
matter did not turn out nearly so bad as it was at first supposed it would. The
mate, a hardy old seaman by the name of Flemming, who had seen ships in bad
places before, set to work, and in a short time had the schooner afloat again.
The trunk containing the order came ashore at Bodega bay and was returned to its
owner. The vessel then proceeded to its destination and returned with the gold
for the order.

   The only moveable article which was included in the Sutter purchase which is
now in existence, as far as known, or at least the one to which the most
historic interest attaches, is a brass four-pound field-piece. This gun was cast
in St. Petersburg in 1804. It was through the war against Napoleon, and was
finally sent to Alexander Koskoff, the commander of the California colony, as a
present from the Czar of Russia. Concerning the history of this gun after it
came into Sutter's hands, there are two versions, one given by Major Gillespie,
who it will be remembered was very closely connected with all the events which
transpired during that most eventful period of California's history—the Bear
Flag days of 1846. In the Alta California of July 3, 1846, Major Gillespie says:
This gun was brought over from Fort Ross and mounted at Fort Sutter. It was
captured from Fort Sutter by the Mexicans. It was afterwards re-captured, and
was among those which saluted the American flag July 12, 1846, at sunrise. It
was used by Commodore Stockton in his march from San Pedro to Los Angeles. Also
at the battle of San Pasqual, December 6, 1846, and at Los Angeles at the battle
which occurred at that place December 26, 1846. It was then transferred to
Colonel Mason of the First United States Dragoons, who returned it to Sutter."
The other version is given by Sutter, and is as follows: Writing under date of
August 13, 1879, from Litiz, Lancaster county, Pennsylvania, he says, "Major
(then Captain) Gillespie is in error in speaking of the "Sutter" gun. It was not
upon the walls at all (July 12, 1846), it having been captured by Castro's
forces at the battle of Covenga, near San Fernando, when I was fighting with my
forces under General Micheltorena, then Governor of the Department of
California, in January and February, 1845, against the rebels, and the gun
remained in the possession of the rebel Californians until recaptured by the
American forces some years subsequent, and became of great service to the
latter. Of my command in 1845, consisting of one hundred mounted riflemen (men
of all nationality) and some Indian soldiers, but few survive at this late day.
Among the survivors are General Bidwell, who was my aid-de-camp, and Major
Rufus, of Sonoma." The gun was presented by Sutter subsequently to the Society
of Pioneers, and can be seem in their rooms in San Francisco.

   Among the early settlers of this township not already mentioned may be named
Christian F. Ruoff, who located at Stillwater Cove in the Fall of 1851. He
entered a tract of government land which lay between the Muniz rancho and Rancho
de Herman. He died a few years later, but his widow and children still reside on
the old homestead. N. C. Irwin came in 1857, and settled on government land some
eight miles to the eastward of Timber Cove. David Hopper and R. Moffett came the
same year, and H. Carson, Richard Temple, Gibson, Clark, Freeman, George Mapes,
Ira Mapes, and J. W. McElroy came in 1858. These all settled on the government
land back of the grants mentioned above.

   HARBORS, MILLS AND TOWNS.—The beginning of a town in this township has always
been conditional on two things, namely: a harbor and a saw-mill-The first named
is the prime condition, yet but few towns have sprung up wheretherewas.no mill,
and some have passed out of existence with the mill, leaving scarcely a trace
behind.

   FORT ROSS.—This, of course, is the oldest place in the township, and comes in
first for a mention under the head of towns, though it is not yet a very large
place. We do not know just what mills have been at or near this spot since the
old Russian days. We are told that Benitz built a mill back of the Fort a mile
or so. It is also claimed that James Dixon built the mill. However, it is
evident that a mill of some kind and capacity was at one time in operation
there. The place, as a town, does not seem to have progressed much from its
primitive stockade state until its present enterprising and gentlemanly
proprietor, George W. Call; came into possession of it. He is a thorough-going
business man, and has set the wheel in motion which has made the place quite a
thriving little village, arid is still planning and executing projects which
will ensure a continuance of its prosperity. It has many natural advantages
which will make it a place of great importance for all time to come. Its harbor
is the best in the vicinity, being perfectly secure from northers. Its landings
are kept in the best of order, and loading and discharging vessels is easily
accomplished. There is a large amount of excellent timber tributary to the
place, which will some day make it quite important. There is a tract of about
one thousand acres of most excellent farming land adjacent to it, which is far
more than is in one body at any other point along the coast. There is an
excellent road leading along the coast and some new roads of easy grade leading
into the interior are in course of construction which, when completed, will
bring it within easy access of a large portion of back country. We bespeak for
it a brilliant future. We will give a short description of the present
appearance of the old Russian stockade and buildings. The greater portion of the
stockade is gone. The public road passes through the middle of the old enclosure
from east to west. The old buildings are now used respectively for a saloon,
hotel, and storehouse, while the old chapel is profaned by being used as a
stable. The bastions make excellent pigstys. They are tottering under the weight
of years, and are moss-covered and worm-eaten, and will soon pass out of
existence. There is at present one hotel, one saloon, one blacksmith shop, one
store, one meat market, post and telegraph offices. The postoffice was
established May 23, 1877, with George W. Call, Postmaster. The stage route
leading out from Duncan's Mill passes through all the towns in the township,
likewise the Pacific Coast Telegraph line. Mr. Call is still Postmaster, and E.
Blackford dispenses justice in the regions roundabout. At the landing there is a
chute which is one hundred and eighty feet long, to which there is a swinging
apron one hundred feet in length. The leading of vessels with this is a very
easy process, and rapid withal. The cord-wood, tan-bark, railroad ties, fence
posts are dumped into the head of the chute by the cart load, and by the time
they reach the deck of the vessel they have acquired a fearful velocity. Quite
large quantities of the above-named articles are exported from this point
annually, while more or less dairy products are also shipped. The schooner
"Euphemia," thirty-eight tons register, now runs regularly in this trade. She is
owned by Captain Henry Botcher. This schooner was run in the Bodega trade by
Captain Botcher from 1866 to 1877. Captain Christ ran the schooner "Eden" to
this place in 1874 and 1875. Captain C. Schmaliing ran the schooner "Mary
Zepher" here from 1875 to 1877. The "Eden" was afterwards capsized off Point
Reyes, but no lives were lost.

   TIMBER COVE.—The early mill history of this place is also somewhat shrouded
in doubt. The most reliable statement is to the effect that William Benitz built
a mill on the coast at the Cove in 1862, that it was burned in 1864, and that in
1861, a Mr. Webber and D. L. B. Ross, now of Black Point, built a mill on the
ridge, one and a half miles back of the Cove, and after three years took it
away. Both were steam mills; the Benitz mill had a capacity of twenty-five
thousand feet, and the Ross and Webber mill of sixteen thousand feet per day. At
present there is a chute, over which considerable quantities of cord-wood,
fence-posts, tan-bark, etc., pass annually. A hotel, a school-house, a store and
one dwelling-house comprise the buildings in the town. The postoffice was
established February 24, 1863, with F. Helmke as Postmaster.

   STILLWATER COVE.—This is merely a small bight at which there is a chute owned
by Mrs. Ruoff. The usual exports of this township come here in large quantities
during the year. There is no sign of a town here, and probably never will be.

   SALT POINT.—In the Spring of 1853, Messrs. Hendy & Duncan moved the mill
machinery of the old Benicia or Blumedale Sawmill Company down from the mines,
whither they had taken it upon becoming the owners of it, and located at Salt
Point. This was doubtless the first steam saw-mill in the township. At this time
the mill was small, only having the capacity of five thousand feet per day. In
1854, the engine was enlarged to a sixteen horse-power, and this increased the
capacity of the mill to twelve thousand feet. While here, Mr. Hendy disposed of
his interest to A. Duncan and the brothers continued to run the mill here till
January, 1860. While here, it is estimated that they cut thirty million feet of
lumber. In its prime days there was quite a village here, but only a few
straggling half tumbled down shanties are left now to mark the site of the
milling village. Near it and bearing the same name is a little town of a few
houses viz., one hotel, one blacksmith shop, one store and a few dwelling
houses. W. R. Miller at one time had a saw-mill in this vicinity, but we now
know nothing of its capacity or history. The land and chutes at this point now
belong to a San Francisco firm.

   FISK'S MILL.—J. C. Fisk came to this place and built a mill in April, 1860.
He had formerly used the machinery in Napa valley, it being located about eight
miles above the city. The mill was steam and had a capacity of twenty thousand
feet per day. It was run here for fourteen years and then moved to Cuffy's Cove.
It is estimated that in those fourteen years the enormous quantity of forty-two
million feet of lumber was cut. Mr. Fisk built a chute at this place in 1860. He
disposed of his interest in the mill in 1865 to Fred. Helmke. The mill is gone
and with it all life. The whole village is going to ruin. It is, indeed, a
veritable "Deserted Village." There is a store and a hotel here, and that is
all. No famillies occupy any of the many vacant houses. Mr. Helmke erected a
beautiful mansion here by the seaside, thinking to make it his permanent
abiding, place, but the ever-changing kaleidoscope of fortune soon presented
such a phase that he had to leave it for others to enjoy, and with him the glory
of the place departed.

   FISHERMAN'S BAY.—This place was first settled in 1858, by A. L. Fisk, who
erected a store and hotel building, and put both in operation. The first
saw-mill was put in operation at this point in 1867, by a firm composed of H. B.
Piatt and H. A. M. Cook of San Francisco, known as the Piatt Mill Company. The
capacity of this mill was thirty thousand feet per day. It was located near the
town, and the building is still standing, though the machinery is all gone and
the tramways all broken up. The Clipper Mill was put in operation in 1869, by
Rutherford & Hook. Its capacity was forty thousand feet per day. It, too, has
suspended operations. It is doubtful whether these mills will ever be put in
operation again or not. There are two chutes at present at this point. The
schooner "Lottie Collins" runs regularly in this trade. The business interests
of the place are a store, a hotel, and one blacksmith-shop. J. C. Fisk has a
shingle-mill, built in 1878, with a capacity of thirty thousand shingles daily.
There is a post, telegraph and express office at this place. The postoffice was
established July 10, 1863, with A. J. Fisk as postmaster. The official directory
is as follows: J. C. Fisk, postmaster and agent for Wells, Fargo & Co.; Eugene
Fisk, telegraph operator; J. Carleton, Justice of the Peace; and D. Stump,
Constable. The enterprising Methodists have put a man on the work here, and
given him the following circuit: Fisherman's Bay, Miner School-house, Henry's
Hotel, Ruoff's School-house, and Fisk's Mill. This circuit extends over a
territory ten miles wide and twenty miles long, and containing some of the
roughest country to be found in California. The name of the man who is doing
this great and good work is L. W. Simmons. He has been in this field since
November 10, 1878. The church organization at this place is twenty-two. The
blue-ribbon brigade organized there during the Spring of 1879, and they have no
saloon now.

   BLACK POINT.—This is a small shipping point, now owned by Wm. Bihler and D.
L. B. Ross. They built the chute in 1875. Considerable quantities of produce is
shipped from this point, there being some good farming land near by. There is a
wagon and blacksmith shop here.

   LODGES.—There is but one lodge of any order in the township, and that is a
lodge of U. A. O. D. It is Plantation Lodge No. 32, and is located near the
"Plantation House," a wayside inn, back from Fisk's mill about three miles. This
lodge was organized October 9, 1878. The charter members were, Jos. Luttinger,
Benj. F. Warren, Simon Von Arx, August Radditi, D. A. Raymond, Wm. A.
Richardson, Chas. Thompson, Geo. Decker, Victor Durant, Fred Joerjason, E. Rule,
Herman Tucker, Jno. Caponal, Angelo Cerena, and Peter Eckhardt. The first
officers were, P. Eckhardt, N. A.; F. Warren, V. A.; F. Joerjason, Secretary,
and J. Luttinger, Treasurer. The hall building was erected in 1878, at an
expense of two thousand dollars. It is a very neat building, and the lodge room
very cosy. The present membership is twenty-two.

   WAYSIDE INNS.—On what is known as the "ridge road," i.e., the road which
passes along up the coast, a distance of perhaps three miles back from the
ocean, and on a sort of a ridge or back-bone of the first range of hills, are
situated two wayside inns, one known as Henry's Hotel, and the other as the
Plantation House. Henry's is situated directly back of Fort Ross, and the
Plantation not far from Fisk's mill. The latter was built in 1871. The present
proprietor has a fine pond of trout and carp, which he is cultivating successfully.

   SCHOOLS.—It must not be presumed that because the face of the country
presents such a rough appearance that there are no schools herein. On the
contrary, there are nearly a dozen school houses in the township. It is true,
some of the children have to make long pilgrimages to reach the school house;
still they are within the reach of all.



Additional Comments:
Extracted from:

HISTORY
—OF-
SONOMA COUNTY,
-INCLUDING ITS—
Geology, Topooraphy, Mountains, Valleys and Streams;
—TOGETHER WITH—
A Full and Particular Record of the Spanish Grants; Its Early History and
Settlement, Compiled from the Most Authentic Sources; the Names of Original
Spanish and American Pioneers; a full Political History, Comprising the Tabular
Statements of Elections and Office-holders since the Formation of the County;
Separate Histories of each Township, Showing the Advancement of Grape and Grain
 Growing Interests, and Pisciculture;
ALSO, INCIDENTS OF PIONEER LIFE; THE RAISING OF THE BEAR FLAG; AND BIOGRAPHICAL
SKETCHES OF EARLY AND PROMINENT SETTLERS AND REPRESENTATIVE MEN;
—AND OF ITS—
Cities, Towns, Churches, Schools, Secret Societies, Etc., Etc.
ILLUSTRATED.

SAN FRANCISCO:
ALLEY, BOWEN & CO., PUBLISHERS.
1880.

Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1879, by ALLEY, BOWEN & Co.,
in the office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington, D. C.

PACIFIC PRESS,
Oakland, Cal. Printers., Stereotypers and Binders.

File at: http://files.usgwarchives.net/ca/sonoma/history/1880/historyo/saltpoin401nms.txt

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