Sonoma County CA Archives History - Books .....Springs And Mines Of Sonoma County 1880
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Book Title: History Of Sonoma County

THE SPRINGS AND MINES OF SONOMA COUNTY.

   THE SPRINGS.—The Geysers.—Of all the noted places in Sonoma county, indeed on
the Pacific coast, the most famous is The Geysers, which are located in the
Mayacmas range of mountains which separate this from Lake and Napa. They are one
thousand seven hundred feet above the level of the sea, placed among scenery
which absolutely defies description. It is positively a most "uncanny" place.

   These springs and their healing properties were long known to the Indians,
there being a jet still known as the Indian sweat-bath, where the rheumatic
patient was wont to be brought and laid upon a scaffold, or temporary grating,
immediately over the spring, and steamed until cured or relieved by death from
his sufferings.

   On one occasion, in the month of April, 1847, William B. Elliott, mentioned
elsewhere as having a ranch on Mark West creek, was, in company with a son, on a
hunting expedition. Tracking a bear to the summit of the opposite mountains,
where they lost him, they observed smoke arising in such volumes that they
mistook it for a large Indian rancherie. After conning it for a space and seeing
no signs of human life, they descended the mountain, and found on arriving on a
flat plot of ground their further progress barred by a huge grizzley, which the
fearless hunters soon dispatched. On this level clearing the first house at the
Geysers was erected by M. Levy, and was long known as the Old Homestead, and was
remarkable for having on its site a wild grapevine measuring twelve inches in
diameter. In the year 1854, Major Ewing built a cloth house on the position now
occupied by the present hotel, where he was joined by Levy, who found the
situation more eligible than his own, and shortly after a saw-mill was
constructed, a portion of the hotel now in use being built from lumber sawed by it.

   Colonel A. C. Godwin, now deceased, but then a merchant in Geyserville, a
small town situated in Washington township, obtained an interest in the property
shortly after its settlement, and from his genial manners and personal
magnetism, was the means of attracting many visitors to the spot.

   We are indebted to Mr. Robert A. Thompson's interesting work on Sonoma county
for the following information:—

   "The first route to the springs was through Knight's valley to the foot of
the mountain, in stages, then on horseback by a narrow trail over the mountain.
William McDonald, still a resident of Knight's valley, acted as guide. Levy kept
the hotel during Colonel Godwin's ownership; he was succeeded by Major Ewing,
and Major Ewing by H. Utting. After Mr. Utting the place changed hands nearly
every year, and the hotel was kept successively by Coe & Baxter, Clark Foss, and
F. H. Coe. In 1866 it was rented by Major Shafer, who kept it until 1870; he was
succeeded by J. C. Susenbeth, who remained there three years. B. S.
Hollingsworth was the lessee for the years 1874-5-6 and 7; he was succeeded in
April of that year by W. Forsyth, the present proprietor. The first register
kept at the springs was in the year 1854, and there are but twenty names upon
it. From that time on the number increased every year until 1875, when three
thousand five hundred names were enrolled.

   "The first wagon-road made to the Geysers was from Healdsburg, over what is
called the Hog's Back ridge. On the 15th of May, 1861, It. C. Flournoy drove a
double team and buggy over the new road, and to him belongs the credit of taking
the first wheeled vehicle of any kind to the Geyser springs. He was accompanied
by a lady, and reached the hotel at eleven o'clock, P. M., without breaking a
bolt. The main trail to the Geysers was over this road until 1869, when a
toll-road was built from Knight's valley, and a stage line put on that route. In
1874, the toll-road from Cloverdale up Sulphur creek, was built, and opened the
following season. Of all the roads to the Geysers, that from Healdsburg, over
the Hog's Back, is the most interesting and beautiful. It follows the crest of
the high ridge separating the waters of Big and Little Sulphur creeks, passing
close under the shadow of Geyser peak, affording a view of the great Russian
River valley and the sea beyond, unsurpassed anywhere in its breadth, variety,
and beauty. There are other roads in to the springs from Lake county, and there
is also a good trail from Geyserville."

   As has been said above, in former days the route used to be by way of Foss'
station, situated in a small, secluded valley—the beau-ideal of sequestered
loveliness. Thence it lay principally up hill for four miles, whence a descent
was made to Little Pluton river, which was forded, and the ascent continued
until the "upper station" was reached, six miles from Foss' and the same
distance from the Geysers. From the Little Pluton to this point, the road lay
through timber of various varieties,—oak, madrona, manzanita, and much
undergrowth. The timber, however, was soon left, and in a few minutes longer the
highest point on the road was reached, about three thousand feet above the ocean
(Healdsburg is one hundred and twenty feet above the sea level). The most
thrilling portion of the journey was then commenced. Down the road went upon the
Hog's Back, a narrow ridge, winding hither and thither, up hill and down, for
two miles, appearing almost impossible for horses to stand on the side of the
hill, but still they would creep up with a slow and hardly perceptible motion.
The summit of one hill gained, they would madly dash down another; to the right,
and within a foot, the brink of a precipice fearful to behold; to the left, a
high rock, reaching up hundreds of feet. Now they dash around the hill, the
leaders trotting to the extreme outer edge of the road and apparently going over
the brink, to whirl around just in the nick of time. Anon, there is a hill on
the right and a steep gorge on the left, and then again a yawning gulf on either
side, the ridge on which the road runs being in places not seven feet wide.

   What a gorgeous panorama is there to be seen from the highest point of the
road. In the immediate foreground are the steep mountain sides covered with a
dense foliage of varied hues. From the depth of the gulches sturdy pines rear
their lofty pinnacles until they seem almost within reach. Southward spreads out
the Russian River valley, interspersed with gardens and grain fields, and
through its center, sparkling in the sun's rays, the river winds its tortuous
way, concealed at times by the luxuriant growth of oaks and clinging vines upon
its banks. Far beyond the valley the hills and mountains rise in graceful
succession; and farther, on the verge of the horizon, the coast range hems in
the view, and is dimly visible in the soft, hazy atmosphere so peculiarly
Californian.

   A writer many years ago speaks of the famous "whip" of this route in these
words:—

   "A trip to the Geysers without Foss, the accommodating and world-renowned
driver, who originated and owns the line between Calistoga and the Geysers is
like the play of Hamlet with that melancholy young gentleman left out. Not only
is he an unequalled driver, but he is a man of genius and a philosopher. In
person he stands over six feet two inches in his stockings, is as strong as a
giant, has the voice of a tragedian, weighs two hundred and thirty pounds, and
is as fine a specimen of muscular development and vigor as ever went forth from
the hills of the Granite State.

   "With a fresh team of six horses, and a load of appreciative passengers, Foss
is in his glory. Alternately coaxing and encouraging his horses up the steepest
acclivities, his eye sparkles at the top as he gathers the reins, carefully
places his foot on the brake, turns half round and looks over the coach to see
that the passengers are all there, when 'crack' goes the whip, a shout to the
horses, and away we go down the steep mountain side. Trees fly past like the
wind; bushes dash angrily against the wheels; the ladies shut their eyes and
grasp the arm of some male passenger; and speed down the declivity with
lightning rapidity, the horses on a live jump, and General Foss, whip in hand,
cracking it about their heads to urge them on. The effect at first is anything
but pleasant. At every lurch of the coach one feels an instinctive dread of
being tossed high in air and landed far below in a gorge, or, perchance, spitted
upon the top of a sharp pine. If a horse should stumble or misstep, or the
tackle snap, away we should all go down the precipice. The angle of descent is
exceedingly sharp, and down this declivity the horses are run at break-neck
speed for two and a half miles, making thirty-five turns and some of them extra
short ones."

   The Geysers is a name given to springs scattered along the Pluton river for
six miles above the hotel and two and a half below, but the principal ones of
interest lie within half a mile of the hotel, across the river and up a narrow
gorge, called the " Devil's Canon," which leads into Pluton river, perhaps fifty
yards below the hotel. A guide being procured, and each being armed with a stout
walking stick, we pass over the river and visit an iron spring, fifty yards in
front of the hotel. Then the river Pluton is crossed by means of a narrow
foot-bridge. The stream is here about thirty feet in width and full of large
boulders. Passing the bath-house we see the "Eye spring," with its dark-colored
water; next "Proserpine's Grotto," in the Devil's Canon, where we find Epsom
salts on the walls in crystals. We are now in the "Devil's machine shop,"
surrounded by infernal springs, bubbling and boiling with their alum and iron
solutions, among which is the "Devil's Ink." The ground is unbearably hot; the
steam rushes out from the vent holes in the hill-sides and under foot. A feeling
of awe and possibly of insecurity takes hold of the stranger. But on we must go,
for the hot ground burns our feet. Alum springs abound, and here is nitre and
putty. On the sides of the bank are carbonates of magnesia and various salts of
iron. A few yards further up the canon is the greatest wonder of all—the
"Witches' Caldron," a large cavity, six feet by eight, and four feet deep. It is
full of a black, boiling liquid, containing iron, sulphur, and alum. Although
continually boiling and foaming, very little of the fluid escapes. The "Devils
Canopy" appears to the right, a projection from the bank, composed of
stalactites of sulphur and iron. We are near the head of the canon and the
"Steamboat Springs." These are not in the bottom of the gorge, but are elevated
some twenty feet. Steam is continually escaping in jets, and on favorable
occasions it ascends three hundred feet. We have now reached the head of the
gorge with scorching feet, with a bottle of the Devil's ink, with putty and
various specimens, but the end is not yet. From the hotel we have come
north-northeast, and now we are directed by the guide to the east, leaving the
Devil's Canon and going over the ridge to a pure stream of cold water, to
"Lovers' Retreat," among the laurels, and still going east to the "White Sulphur
Spring." Turning towards the hotel we soon find ourselves on "General Hooker's
Lookout," opposite the Steamboat Springs, and on the eastern bank of the canon.
The view from this point, above, around, and below, is grand beyond description.

   Perhaps seventy-five yards east of the Lookout is the Crater, and close to it
is the "Devil's Oven," which is simply a hole in a small side-hill, out of which
comes steam with a hissing noise. The "Devil's Teakettle" is a short distance
east of the Oven. We go to it and find a terrible whistling noise and see an
aperture similar to that of the Oven. In fact, they are both teakettles, but for
the sake of giving a variety of kitchen utensils to His Satanic Majesty, the
first steam-pot was called an oven. Within six feet of the Teakettle is an alum
spring, and within six feet of that is an iron spring. The Crater is a kind of
wash-bowl for His Majesty, and is doubtless an old witches' caldron, boiled dry.
The ground under it is hollow and vibrating.

   The round of wonders, within half a mile of the hotel, has now been
completed, except the Steam Bath, a quarter of a mile up Pluton Canon. There are
many other places of interest down the river, among them the Acid Bath, half a
mile distant, and the Indian Bath, a mile below. There is a dry canon near the
Devil's Canon and adjoining it, whose walls are composed of alum. The odors
throughout the region of the Geysers are in some cases very unpleasant, but to
the chemical student who has experimented with sulphuretted hydrogen they will
appear less disagreeable than to others. Thus the circuit of a mile has been
made, and we have seen the most wonderful laboratory in the universe.

   Phenomena.—The causes which produce the phenomena of the Geysers are, of
course, a subject of frequent discussion with visitors. A majority of scientists
consider it "the chemical laboratory of the Almighty." They maintain that the
steam and internal heat are produced by the antagonism of mineral substances in
the earth, which, with the springs of water flowing through them, produce an
effect similar to that of the wetting of unslacked lime.

   This theory is generally accepted by chemists; but it will be very difficult
to convince "outsiders" that all this ebullition and intense heat have not a
common origin with that of volcanoes, differing only in degree. It seems to add
strength to this theory that the adjacent mountain ranges show abundant evidence
of ancient volcanic action.

   For would-be visitors we once more retrace our steps: Spacious verandahs
surround the hotel, which is replete with every comfort, and as a place of
resort, it is equally adapted to the sick, the sad, the gay, the philosophic.
From its windows we see to the north the wonderful cation already described,
which, as a natural curiosity, can in no part of the world be excelled, and is
only equalled in the volcanic development of Hecla in Iceland. The Witches'
Caldron, the Steamboat Springs, and the entire infernal appearance of the
region, exceed all language to portray. The metallic hills, the brimstone, the
hot river, and volcanic rocks, are draped, in many instances, in exquisite
green; grass, shrubs and trees grow and overhang seething caldrons. The roar,
the steam, the groans, are unearthly. Scientific and hydrographical accounts
have been written by abler pens, but to see is to be convinced that not a tithe
of the wealth and power of these mystical Geysers and their surrounding metallic
hills have yet been developed. "The complicated sublimity of this spot, and its
uses, are attracting the attention of the world, and the rapid progress of
material development linked with the matchless achievements of the past, attest
that by the application of scientific principles to great speculative ideas,
they in time become practical facts, elevating our race into the knowledge of
useful philosophy, and inspiring the loftiest conceptions of God's purpose
toward man, teaching that even nature can be chained as a titanic servant under
His Imperial dominion."

   Skaggs' Springs.—These springs are situated at the head of Dry Creek valley,
about eight miles west of the depot of the San Francisco and North Pacific
Railroad at Geyserville, and are next in importance and popularity to the
Geyser3. The land upon which they are located was entered by William Skaggs, A.
Skaggs, and William and John Knight, as a grazing ranch, in 1856, but in the
following Spring, A. Skaggs purchased the interest of his partners and became
the sole proprietor.

   Here there are a number of hot sulphur springs of pleasant temperature for
bathing, while there is also a cold soda and iron spring, which proves an
excellent tonic for invalids; the principal attractions of the place, however,
are its positively luxurious baths.

   Another and pleasant manner of reaching the springs is from Healdsburg, only
fourteen miles distant. The road runs for eleven miles along the valley of Dry
Creek, a tributary of Russian river, and may be considered a part of that justly
celebrated valley; thence three miles into the Coast Range of mountains, winding
along the valley of Hot Springs creek, a rapid, rock-fretted stream, whose dark
waters nestle closely under the tall cliffs, which shut out the sunlight, except
for a few hours at mid-day, without possible chance of exit, except at this
celebrated watering place. Realizing that the busy world is left behind, you are
awe-inspired, and the feeling creeps over you that, perhaps, this is "the bourne
from whence no traveller returns." "There are here a few acres of tolerable
level, fertile land; the rest of the country is pretty slanting; in fact up
edge-ways, and they pasture goats on both sides of it. There are plenty of deer
in the vicinity, but it is very dangerous hunting them; if you should kill one
it would be liable to fall on your head," is the account one writer gives of its
charms.

   In the year 1860 Skaggs' first became a regular resort, and from that date it
gained in popularity, and the number of its visitors increased until 1864, when
its extending repute caused the proprietors to expend a considerable sum of
money in making improvements so as to increase its attractiveness. Building was
at once commenced, and the new house was opened in 1864 by A. Skaggs; in 1867 he
leased the springs, but in the following year, resumed the reigns of office.
During the next two years the establishment was rented by John Leonard, and in
1871 by B. F. Tucker; in 1872-73 it was kept by Perry Emmerson, since when they
have been under the control of the proprietor himself, who has expended a large
sum of money upon the grounds and buildings.    In the hotel and cozy cottages
which surround it, there is accommodation for at least three hundred guests,
while for their delectation there are elegant drives and walks throughout the
surrounding grounds and conterminous country.

   Litton Springs.—This resort is located four miles from Healdsburg, on the
line of the San Francisco and North Pacific Railroad, and is the property of
Captain Litton, who improved the place in 1875 at an expense of eighty thousand
dollars. There is a handsome hotel and a number of convenient and comfortable
cottages. The water is an agreeable seltzer, which is bottled and sold in
considerable quantities. In late years Litton Springs has become a fashionable
place of summer resort.

   The Mark West Springs.— These springs are beautifully located in a bend of
the Mark West creek, which forms a romantic dell surrounded by' hills densely
covered with chapparal. These hills during the season are exceptionally
beautiful. The chief attraction of these springs is its sulphur bath. They are
owned by Judge A. P. Overton, of Santa Rosa, their proximity to which place
making them a favorite and fashionable watering place.

   White Sulphur Springs.—These springs are situated two miles and a half from
Santa Rosa, under the Cotate peak, which overlooks the city. They are owned by
John Taylor. The place is well improved; the water holds in solution, sulphur,
soda, magnesia, and iron, and is considered very healing for many of the ills
that flesh is heir to. There are also a number of well-fitted bath-rooms
supplied with hot and cold mineral water. It is a favorite drive from Santa Rosa
to the springs, while they are largely patronized by many from abroad.

   THE MINES.—We reproduce in this place from Mr. Thompson's work the following
record of the mining interests in Sonoma county:—

   As early as 1852 there were reported discoveries of gold on Russian river.
One of the Kelseys led a prospecting party as far as Eel river. This party
discovered and named Eden valley, and Round valley, in Mendocino county, then a
part of Sonoma. They, too, first crossed and gave the name Sanhedrin to the
grand mountain which overlooks all the beautiful valleys of Mendocino. They met
with no great success, and returned, but some members of the party still live in
that part of Mendocino county, then first seen by white men. In 1854 reports of
gold discoveries on Russian river were revived, but soon died out.

   After the discovery and occupation of Geyser springs, the abundant
indications of cinnabar in the neighborhood attracted attention. The price of
quicksilver at the time was low,—fifty cents per pound; the cost of reduction
was great, and the Almaden mine was producing a supply adequate to the demand.
For these reasons no special attention was paid to the indications of mercury
everywhere visible on the surface near the Geysers.

   In 1859 Colonel A. C. Godwin, then the owner of the Geyser springs, organized
a mining district, located a number of claims himself, and a number of others
were also taken up. These claims were afterward consolidated into one or two
companies, and some work was done upon them. The low price of quicksilver, the
scarcity of labor, and lack of skill in manipulating the ore, led to loss, and
finally put a stop to all work on the mines. In 1861 Colonel Godwin, who had
given the enterprise most of its life, sold his interest in the springs and
mines, and returned to the East. The stock of the consolidated companies went to
zero, and the mines were sold at sheriff's sale to satisfy the demand of
creditors. Professor Whitney, with a corps of scientists, came along soon
afterwards, and, with his "no vein theory" in the coast range, extinguished the
last spark of life in mining enterprises in Sonoma for the time.

   From 1861 to 1872 no work was done on the quicksilver mines. In the latter
part of 1871, and early in 1872, a lively interest in the mines revived,
quicksilver having advanced to one dollar a pound. Claims in the old district
were re-located, roads were built, a mining town sprang up, and at least five
hundred men were at work in the district. A lawsuit was commenced between the
old and new locators, which brought to the county-seat of Santa Rosa a number of
the most distinguished mining lawyers of the Pacific coast, and learned and
eloquent arguments were made which engaged the court for a prolonged session,
creating for the time more excitement than was ever before witnessed in any case
in the courts of Sonoma.

   Just after the case was settled, quicksilver again fell in the market to
fifty cents a pound. This at once checked the work of development, as most of
the claimants were prospectors, hoping to pay their way from the products of the
mine, and it cost them as much to get the metal out as it would bring in the
market. Of the number of claims taken up, two have proved very valuable,—the
Oakland and the Cloverdale.

   The Oakland Mine is situated near Geyser peak, which we have elsewhere
mentioned. It is at the head of a deep gorge, on the north side of the mountain,
known from its wild and sombre depths as the "Devil's Canon." The Oakland, from
the opening of the mine, has had good ore, and more than paid its way. The
furnace at the mine is a small one,—the product, about two hundred flasks a
month, is up to its full capacity, and metal for at least one hundred and fifty
flasks more per month is left upon the dump for a time when a larger furnace
will be built. The ore is cinnabar, sulphate of mercury, and specimens are found
which will retort seventy-five per cent of metal. The average of the ore worked
is about four per cent; lower grade ore is laid aside for reduction at some
future time.

   The Cloverdale Mine.—About seven miles from the Geysers, on Sulphur creek,
four miles northwest of the Oakland, the Cloverdale mine is situated. The hill
in which this mine is located has all the appearance of an extinct geyser. The
metal is diffused through the hill, and is found in the country-rock, and in
fine dust. There is a furnace at this mine, made with the view of working the
latter kind of ore, which is rarely found. The Cloverdale is regarded as one of
the most promising mines on the coast.

   In a different part of the county two other valuable mines are located > one
is known as the Great Eastern, and the other as the Mount Jackson* They are four
miles north of Guerneville.

   The Great Eastern Mine.—The Great Eastern mine, situated twelve miles
southwest of Healdsburg, was located in. 1873, and in September, 1874, leased to
Tiburcio Parrott, of San Francisco. The following figures are by Mr. Isaac Gum,
President of the company owning the mine :—

Expense, 84,346.11; applied towards part payment on the furnaces, by the
stockholders of the Great Eastern Company, $2,660.67; dividends paid, $14,051;
cash on hand, $289.50. Total, $21,347.28. The terms of the lease are that Mr.
Parrott puts on all improvements, pays expenses, etc., and receives therefor
seven-eighths of the production.

   The largest portion of the above expense item ($4,346.11) was incurred after
Mr. Parrott took the mine, and includes cost of patent, lawsuit, etc. There have
been 8160,000 taken out of the mine in five years.

   The company has given Mr. Parrott a new lease for five years, although his
present lease will not expire till a year hence. There is now due Mr. Parrott
from the mine $38,000, (in other words he has put in $38,000 more than he has
received from the mine), and according to the provisions of the lease the
stockholders are to receive one-eighth of the product till that amount is paid,
above working expenses; when, if quicksilver rises to fifty cents per pound,
they get one-sixth; if it rises to fifty-five cents or over, they get one-fifth.
At the expiration of Mr. Parrott's lease, providing the stockholders take the
mine, they are to pay him a fair valuation for all the improvements he has made.

   An important improvement now being made at the mine is the addition of
hoisting works, capable of working six or seven hundred feet levels; there will
be an ore cage and a double-stroke pump, the latter being needed to free the
lower levels of water. A kiln of 60,000 bricks has recently been burned at the
mine, and the little Eames furnace is to be taken down; another one will be
built upon its foundation, with Haskins & Hall's patent ore chamber attached.
There is now in use at the mine a twenty-ton* Maxwell furnace, almost new, and
in fine condition. The improvements in the way of buildings, roads, etc., are
numerous and substantial. At present the hoisting works are being adjusted, and
it is expected that the mine will soon be in full operation. D. H. Haskins is
the superintendent. This mine was located by Messrs. Gum, Zane, and Lewis, .of
Healdsburg.

   The Mount Jackson Mine.—This is also a very promising mine. Work was
commenced in it in 1873, and has not stopped for a single day. It will one day
fully equal the expectations of its owners. The Mount Jackson was also located
by Messrs. Gum, Zane, and Lewis, of Healdsburg, and they sold it to a company of
gentlemen of that city.

   Mention has been made only of the four leading mines—there are a number of
others which can be worked to advantage whenever the owners are ready to develop
them. If the demand would justify it, the quicksilver mines of Sonoma could be
made to produce from three to five thousand flasks of mercury per month.


Additional Comments:
Extracted from:

HISTORY
—OF-

SONOMA COUNTY,
-INCLUDING ITS—
Geology, Topooraphy, Mountains, Valleys and Streams;
—TOGETHER WITH—
A Full and Particular Record of the Spanish Grants; Its Early History and
Settlement, Compiled from the Most Authentic Sources; the Names of Original
Spanish and American Pioneers; a full Political History, Comprising the Tabular
Statements of Elections and Office-holders since the Formation of the County;
Separate Histories of each Township, Showing the Advancement of Grape and Grain
 Growing Interests, and Pisciculture;
ALSO, INCIDENTS OF PIONEER LIFE; THE RAISING OF THE BEAR FLAG; AND BIOGRAPHICAL
SKETCHES OF EARLY AND PROMINENT SETTLERS AND REPRESENTATIVE MEN;
—AND OF ITS—
Cities, Towns, Churches, Schools, Secret Societies, Etc., Etc.
ILLUSTRATED.
SAN FRANCISCO:
ALLEY, BOWEN & CO., PUBLISHERS.
1880.



Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1879, by ALLEY, BOWEN & Co.,
in the office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington, D. C.

PACIFIC PRESS,
Oakland, Cal. Printers., Stereotypers and Binders.



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