Dade County FlArchives History - Books .....Perspective Of The City Of Miami In 1896 1925
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Book Title: Historical Sketches And Sidelights Of Miami, Florida

CHAPTER I
PERSPECTIVE OF THE CITY OF MIAMI IN 1896

   THE city of Miami, at this writing, is twenty-nine years old and has a
permanent population of approximately seventy-five thousand. Its general aspect
is that of a city of the one-hundred-thousand class. Of the recent settlers none
but those of the most vivid imagination could form a true conception of the
process of its growth and successive stages of its development.

   The story of Miami, as related in these pages, is a record of the city's
progress; the vicissitudes of its pioneers, their activities, foibles,
contentions, ideals and aspirations. This narrative will commence with the
city's topographical aspect.

   Commencing at the north-shore line of the Miami River, at the foot of Avenue
"D" (South Miami Avenue), and terminating at the intersection of First Street
(North Eleventh Street), the writer recalls the following structures: Captain
Vail's steamboat hotel; the late Adam Correll's livery stable; a row of stores
and a two-story hotel building on the east side of Avenue "D." These were
occupied by Lummus Brothers, Frank T. Budge, the late S. A. Belcher, C. H.
Raullerson and Salem Graham's baker shop. (The town had originally adopted the
following street-naming system; commencing at the northern boundary line, at the
intersection of North Miami Avenue and Eleventh Street, running in a southerly
direction, the streets running east and west received consecutive numerical
designations. Commencing at the west-shore line of Biscayne Bay, the
thoroughfares running north and south, excepting the thoroughfare fronting on
the bay which was named "The Boulevard," were designated alphabetically as
avenues. This system was in force during the first twenty-four years of Miami's
existence.) Across the street from the above-mentioned structures stood the home
of Miami's first newspaper, the Miami Metropolis, and a huge tent in which
religious services and community meetings were held. The storerooms in the south
end of the hotel structure were occupied by Townley Brothers, Sewell Brothers
and the late Dr. J. M. Jackson, Jr.

   At the corner of the next block, on the east side of the avenue, stood E. L.
Brady's building. East of the latter, fronting on Fourteenth Street (Southeast
Second Street), stood the Bank of Bay Biscayne and John W. Watson's building. On
the west side of the avenue stood the late Captain Chase's building. West of the
latter, fronting on Fourteenth Street, there were several buildings housing
various lines of business. The completion of the foregoing structures was
followed by the erection of a number of buildings on both sides of the avenue,
terminating at the corner of Thirteenth Street. These were occupied by operators
of restaurants, cold-drink parlors, dry-goods, clothing and shoe stores, butcher
shop, hardware store and racket store (the harbinger of the present-day five-
and ten-cents stores). The latter were followed by two attractive two-story
brick-veneer buildings and a three-story solid brick structure. The former at
each end of the block on the west side of Avenue "D" (South Miami Avenue),
between Twelfth and Thirteenth streets (Flagler and South First streets), and
the latter on the southeast corner of Twelfth Street and Avenue "D" (Flagler
Street and Miami Avenue). These are the oldest business buildings extant.

   At the northeast corner of Avenue "D" and Eleventh Street (North Miami Avenue
and First Street) stood a large frame structure, in which the biggest dry-goods
store of that period was operated by a firm named Lovette & Laws. At the corner
across the street from the latter stood a two-story frame building, the ground
floor of which was occupied by the late T. N. Gautier as a grocery store, and
the upper story housed Mrs. Gautier's boarding house. Toward the west from the
latter, fronting south on Eleventh Street, there stood a frame building which
housed the late Edwin Nelson's undertaking and furniture establishment. There
were also several shacks along both sides of the railroad tracks, between
Eleventh and Fourteenth streets, in one of which the city hall and jail were
located.

   East of Avenue " D " on Thirteenth and Fourteenth streets, several attractive
two-story cottages were built by the late Henry M. Flagler, some of which are
still in existence but have long since passed out of the latter's ownership.
Similar cottages were erected on Avenue "B" between Twelfth and Fourteenth
streets (Southeast Second Avenue, between Flagler and Second streets). A number
of other buildings were started in every direction, but the town had not as yet
emerged from the plank sidewalk stage of its development. In the beginning of
the month of December, several of the leading firms had removed to Twelfth
Street (Flagler Street), which thoroughfare soon superseded Avenue "D" (Miami
Avenue) as the main business street.

   At the beginning of that year there was a little business and residential
center on the south side of the river, at a point close to the approach of the
Southwest Second Avenue bridge (formerly Avenue "G"), in addition to a similar
center at Brickeirs Point, where the post-office was located. (The late Alice
Brickell was postmistress. She was succeeded by Joseph S. Warner, H. C. Budge,
Morgan E. Jones, F. M. Brown, A. E. Cully (acting) and the present incumbent,
John D. Gardner.)

   During that period and for a number of years thereafter, the territory beyond
the north line of the city limits (at the intersection of North Miami Avenue and
Eleventh Street) harbored a number of saloons, gambling houses and kindred
evils. Numerous murders and other outrages were committed in that erstwhile
notorious locality. That former unsavory district, which was known as "North
Miami," flourished until about fifteen years ago, when Dan Hardie, upon having
been elected sheriff of Dade County, had fulfilled his preelection promises in
driving its denizens into the northwestern section of the city adjoining colored
town. That new segregated district became known as "Hardieville." After years of
protest by the decent element of the colored population the neighborhood was
finally purged of its incubus.

   As the year advanced new settlers arrived on every train, and the town
expanded in every direction. The majority of Miami's population of the first
year came from West Palm Beach, Titusville and Kissimmee. In spite of the
countless buildings that were hastily erected, numerous families had been
obliged to live in tents. At this stage of Miami's development, the Flagler and
Tuttle land agents vigorously pushed the sale of building lots, offering special
inducements to those who possessed enough funds to make small payments on same.
Flagler Street corner lots sold at $900, and inside ones at $800 (50 x 150).
Miami Avenue lots sold at $300 to $400 each, and West Flagler Street, between
the railroad tracks and the river, at $300 to #400. First and Second Avenue lots
sold at about the same prices. Little attention was paid to bay-front property,
owing to its seeming great distance from the center of the city, although that
locality possessed the attractive features of water frontage, and a potential
park along the shore between Seventh and Twelfth streets (Fifth and Flagler
streets).

   Before the year passed parts of the Boulevard (North Bayshore Drive), Flagler
Street, Second, First and Miami avenues were paved with native rock (the same
material that entered into the construction of the present courthouse, city hall
and Halcyon hotel), and the town assumed the appearance of a modern little city.
This improvement, however, had caused insufferable annoyance to the inhabitants
who were obliged to shield their eyes with colored spectacles from the glaring
whiteness of the streets. In the course of time repeated attempts to eradicate
that nuisance were made, in which a liquid known as "Tarvia" was employed, all
of which proved abortive. However, the sensitive eyes of the pioneers finally
became adapted to this irritation and no permanent harm resulted therefrom.

   During that period Miami's population looked with longing eyes towards the
ocean, across the bay, which was then inaccessible. Some of the more daring
pioneers, however, frequently crossed the bay in rowboats, pushed through the
mangroves that lined the eastern shore, took dips in the surf, hunted bears and
collected turtle eggs. The scattering natives used to visit the peninsula in
quest of ship timber and other wreckage which the sea yielded in abundance. Much
of this well-preserved timber was used in the construction of buildings. Those
who had explored the peninsula harbored fears of its imminent inundation and the
ocean's encroachment upon the city of Miami. Time, however, had proven the
absurdity and baselessness of such fears.

   The Everglades west of Miami was another inaccessible region which the
pioneers sought to explore. This brought them in contact with its denizens, the
Seminole Indians, who received them kindly and made their visits highly
profitable through barter. During that period there was an abundance of game in
the Everglades.

   The territory on the south side of the river, known as "Brickell's Point/'
and the large area on the west side of the river, now known as Riverside, could
not be reached except by boat (for a short time, there was an improvised bridge
connecting the two shores of the river, at a point a little east of Avenue "G,"
now Southwest Second Avenue) and therefore remained undeveloped until the city
bridged Miami Avenue, and the Tatum Brothers, some years later, built a bridge
at the foot of Flagler Street in conjunction with their riverside development
(both of those bridges have since been replaced by the present magnificent
structures).

   There was a trail leading from the Brickell homestead, in a southerly
direction, to a settlement known as "Coconut Grove" (now the beautiful town of
Coconut Grove, a noted center of culture and place of attractive homes) which
the pioneers were fond of visiting on their bicycles. In traversing this trail
one had an impenetrable jungle on one side and the bay on the other. There was a
spring east of the trail which was known as "The Punch Bowl," and it was
believed that frequent drinking of the water from that mysterious spring endowed
one with perpetual youth. Many of the early settlers made regular excursions to
that enchanting spot despite the inconvenience in reaching it.

   At the beginning of the following year the town presented an entirely
different appearance, caused by the following incident in its history:

   At about one o'clock Christmas morning, shortly after the merchants closed
their stores, flames were seen issuing from the roof of the store building
occupied by E. L. Brady, at the corner of Avenue "D" and Fourteenth Street. The
fire rapidly spread to both sides of the avenue and into the cross streets, and
in a few hours the heart of Miami's business district, Avenue "D" between
Thirteenth and Fourteenth streets, was wiped out. The only remaining buildings
were a two-story brick-veneer structure at the northwest corner of Avenue "D"
and Thirteenth Street, a three-story solid brick building at the southeast
corner of Twelfth Street and Avenue "D" and a two-story brick-veneer across the
street from the latter (the first two are still in existence, the last has been
destroyed by a subsequent fire and replaced by a three-story structure).

   In one of the burning buildings, on Fourteenth Street west of Avenue "D," an
explosion occurred, shooting fragments of a cylinder into the midst of a crowd
that collected on Thirteenth Street while the fire was raging, one of which
struck a merchant named J. M. Frank, who died a few hours afterward.

   Early in 1896 incipient Miami presented a very crude aspect and was much less
alluring than in the period immediately preceding the conflagration, as revealed
in the writer's diary which follows:

   February 6th. Arrived at a point where Biscayne Bay and the Miami River
converge. Traveled on the newly extended Florida East Coast Railway from West
Palm Beach to its terminus, Fort Lauderdale, thence by small steamboat via Lemon
City. On arrival at this point have been informed by D. R. Knight, proprietor of
a general merchandise store, at whose dock the boat landed, that there were no
docking facilities at the point of my destination. Was obliged to leave my stock
of merchandise, which was packed in a large dry-goods box and in a drummer's
sample trunk, at Lemon City.

   Upon making a survey of surroundings in the vicinity of Miami River and
Biscayne Bay, have observed a home place on the north side of the river and
another on the south side. Was informed that the former belongs to Julia D.
Tuttle and the latter to William Brickell. Adjoining the latter there is a
mercantile establishment, operated by that family, in which a post-office is
located. There are also several frame buildings in course of construction on
both sides of the river, among them a big building which will be named "The
Miami Hotel." This is situated on the Tuttle homestead. Communication between
the two shores of the river is by small barge operated by hand with the aid of a
wire spanning the river.

   Had an interview with Mrs. Tuttle, who is said to be the owner of the
north-side territory, in regard to renting a piece of ground for the erection of
a store building. Result very disappointing. Must wait until land is cleared and
streets laid out, when lots will be put on sale. On declaring that I could not
wait, owing to my destitute condition, I was told to take a job clearing land,
whereupon I tried to impress this naive lady that the last labor of this
character my race had performed was in the land of Egypt, and that it would be a
violation of my religious convictions to resume that condition of servitude.

   February 7th. Decided to locate on the south side of the river, west of
Brickell Point, adjoining a small saw mill which is being operated by a Key West
man named Cobb. This kind-hearted man has agreed to let me use part of his land
and to furnish the material to build a small structure thereon. Another generous
man, named Clayton, whose wife is conducting a boarding house in that vicinity,
has agreed to build the desired structure. Both cheerfully consented to wait for
payment until able to meet my obligations. Have arranged with the owners of a
sailboat, Captains Cuttrell and Gorry, to bring my merchandise from Lemon City
upon completion of my store building.

   February 8th. Am getting acquainted on the north side. Am amazed at the rapid
progress noted in this territory. A street has been laid out, commencing at the
foot of the river opposite Brickell Point, the east side of which is lined with
several store buildings which are approaching completion. A bank is about to be
opened. Dr. Graham is planning to publish a newspaper which will be named the
Metropolis. Buildings are springing up in every direction as if by magic.

   February 9th. My building is nearly completed. Have secured a rowboat to
carry customers to and from my place of business. The river is too deep for
people to wade across, and the privately owned barge is not available when
wanted. Am taking lessons in navigation as I could not afford to take chances
with the lives of my prospective patrons, although some whom I met so far I
would not mind drowning.

   February 10th. Sailed to Lemon City to get my stock of merchandise. While
wrangling with the dock owner over storage charges, Captains Cuttrell and Gorry
retired to a neighboring tent for refreshments. After locating them and finding
that they were incapacitated for the performance of the services for which they
had been hired, I was obliged to undertake the loading of my cargo and sailing
home without them.

   I managed to deposit the trunk on the boat's cabin and was in the act of
lowering the big box to the side of the boat when the jolly captains approached
with unsteady gait. After a noisy and incoherent conference, Captain Cuttrell
ordered his colleague and me to the deck. Taking positions on the side of the
boat, we took hold of the box while the former was bracing himself to let it
slide down to the deck of the boat. On reaching the edge of the deck its weight
unbalanced the boat and caused it to capsize, throwing us into the chilly water
of Biscayne Bay.

   The first to sink was the trunk, next to give up was the box. I clung to
Captain Gorry until rescued by a gang of Nassau negroes who were attracted by
our cries for help. Upon being promised a dollar each for the recovery of the
box and trunk, the whole gang dived into the bay and after repeated efforts
succeeded in bringing up and depositing the cargo on the boat. After assuring my
rescuers that they would receive their promised reward the following day, when
they presented themselves at my store, we sailed for home.

   February 11th. Spent a miserable night out of doors watching my soaked
merchandise which was spread on the ground to dry. In the afternoon a gang of
more negroes than I had ever seen before at one time presented themselves as my
rescuers and demanded a dollar each for their services. Instead of contesting
the claims of some of them I deemed it expedient to recognize all. This action
appealed to them so strongly that none demurred when I allotted each one three
dollars' worth of merchandise, applying one dollar on their respective
allotments and demanding and receiving two dollars in cash from each satisfied
customer. (This proved a wonderful business start.)

   February 12th. Finished the arrangement of my varied stock of merchandise on
the shelves, prepared a comfortable sleeping place under the counter, obtained a
small oil cooking stove, and am now firmly established in business as well as in
housekeeping. The opening day's business is rather discouraging. My good
neighbors of the south side, Mrs. P. UllendorflF, Mrs. Arthur Weaver, Mrs.
Clayton, Mrs. Jack Graham, Mrs. J. W. Johnson and Mrs. Fields visited my store,
made a critical inspection of my merchandise and sadly wished me "good luck."

  First part of March. One day, while immersed in a game of pinochle with a
friendly competitor, as I melded a hundred and fifty in trumps, my opponent
emitted a cry that froze what little blood the mosquitoes had left in my body.
Pointing a trembling finger toward the entrance of the store he shrieked "Snake,
snake!" Without taking time to look in the pointed direction I leaped upon the
counter where I landed almost as quickly as my terrorized pinochle opponent. On
looking downward and seeing no snake, I began to suspect my friend of trying to
cheat me out of the big meld. However, he soon convinced me that he was an
honest pinochle player (there was no money at stake), for, on gazing in the
direction of the rear entrance I beheld the wriggling form of a large snake
which was seeking shelter beneath some logs that were piled behind the building.
The snake's exposed rear end presented a safe target for a few shots which I
succeeded in firing before its withdrawal from sight. The shooting attracted,
among others, an aged negro, who frightened us by saying that he was well
acquainted with that snake, and that he was sure of its return to avenge the
injury inflicted upon it.

   My pinochle partner spent the night with me but we lost all interest in our
usual game and retired rather early. Some hours later I was awakened by a
sensation of pain. Upon regaining full consciousness I became aware of a weight
resting on my chest. Filled with terror I bounded from my resting place to the
counter, where I was instantly joined by my equally terrified friend who had
been startled by my cries for help.

   While awaiting the first rays of daylight, we shiveringly discussed my
frightful experience, concluding that I was attacked by the snake which I had
maltreated the preceding afternoon. Presently, on opening one of the doors
(there were no windows in the building) to admit the light of the dawn, we
noticed to our great relief, a big rat making its swift exit.

   Last part of March. Removed to the north side, where I have secured one of
the new stores erected by banker Brown. I consider the rental, $30 per month,
outrageously high. Am seriously thinking of accepting Mr. Kingsley's (Tuttle's
agent) offer of a lot, across the street, for $300 with a small payment down.

  First part of April. Am doing good business, although there is keen
competition on this side of the river. I no longer mind the high rent,
especially since banker Brown has promised to give me a line of credit of $ 100
without endorsements. Am too busy to play pinochle these days, my store is kept
open until a late hour. One thing worries me, however, namely, the high
insurance rates, $100 per thousand. This compels me to keep my stock uninsured,
causing me to pass sleepless nights in dread of fire.

   Last part of April. The entire community (about three hundred people) turned
out to meet the first passenger train. The station is located on the northeast
corner of Twelfth Street and Avenue "E," directly opposite the colored
settlement. I met Mr. Flagler, Mr. Parrott, Mr. In-graham and Mr. Golf— the big
four of the Florida East Coast Railway.

   First part of June. There is some talk about incorporating this place. The
Metropolis claims that we have enough citizens to become incorporated as a city.
I wonder what this corporation paper is up to? There is a rumor that either J.
A. McDonald, or his son-in-law, John B.Reilly, will be made the first mayor. The
railroad crowd is certainly taking control of politics in this neck of the woods.

   Last part of June. This is going to be a wonderful city. Things happen in
rapid succession, and everybody is happy. Various societies are being formed. I
am joining most of them (excepting the Tuxedo Club; am disqualified for
membership because of lack of a tuxedo suit). Have joined a political
organization which has been formed by Sam Fitts, the manager of Adam CorelFs
livery stable, who is very active in his efforts to destroy the growing
political influence of J. A. McDonald, leader of the railroad corporation
partisans. The corporation faction, besides having the support of the local
paper, seems to have control of Jacksonville's leading newspaper, for which a
local Methodist minister, named Rev. E. V. Blackman, is correspondent.

   Last part of July. Business better than ever. We have a big demand for
mosquito-bars. The pests are with us day and night. During the day we defend
ourselves by burning rags and insect powder. We are also tormented by a vicious
breed of giant horseflies.

   An excursion train brought in a large number of people from all parts of the
state who, on arrival, were attacked by the mosquitoes that found no available
spots on the bodies of our home folk. These poor victims begged the railway
officials to take them back to civilization.

   This is now the city of Miami. We are duly incorporated and we expect to beat
Key West in population within a short time. We are almost up to the population
of West Palm Beach, in spite of the fact that the latter is about two years old.
The slate made up by McDonald, Reilly, Morse, Sewell, Dr. Graham and the rest of
the railroad partisans has been duly elected as follows: John B. Reilly, Mayor;
Jack Graham, Clerk; Y. F. Gray, Marshal; J. A. McDonald, Dan Cosgrove, W. S.
Graham, W. M. Brown, Fred Morse, F. T. Budge and E. L. Brady, Councilmen; and C.
H. Garthside, Treasurer.

   The railway partisans were strongly in favor of naming this city "Flagler,"
but the opposition defeated this movement and the name "Miami" has been adopted,
after the Miami River, which in the Indian language signifies sweet water.

   Last part of December, 1896. Miami looks like a real town. We have a city
hall, a jail, a volunteer fire department, and water and light systems (the
latter have been installed by the Florida East Coast Railway Corporation). Both
sides of Avenue "D" are lined with store buildings; the business center,
however, is shifting to Twelfth Street. Our merchants are doing good business,
derived chiefly from building operations carried on by Henry M. Flagler and from
railroad employees.

   We have had a hard, uncomfortable summer. The mosquito and horsefly pests
were reinforced by ants and roaches which get into the food, and by a specie of
sand fly which gets under one's skin and defies capture. We are looking forward
to some real business which will doubtless come with the opening of the tourist
season next January. I like the north side much better than my former location.
I don't have to depend entirely on my pinochle partner for social diversion. I
made a number of new friends, among them Jack Graham, Louis Woolf the tailor,
John Kronowitter another tailor, John Seybold the restaurant keeper, J. M.
Frank, David Singer, Sam Singer and Jacob Schneidman, merchants, C. H.
Raullerson the butcher, John and Tom Townley the druggists, Y. F. Gray the Town
Marshal and John Frohock the Constable. Poker is now our favorite game. We hold
nightly sessions at my store and play until John's customers call him to prepare
breakfast for them.

   In spite of the climatic and other discomforts, this is a wonderful town. The
people are very sociable. Every fellow tries to entertain every other fellow he
meets. Our most popular entertainment at present is the discussion of the
Florida East Coast Railway Corporation and the political destiny of Miami. These
discussions often culminate in fist fights with an occasional display of knives.

   The leaders of the anti-corporation faction, John M. and Thomas L. Townley,
Sam Fitts, John Frohock and Guy Metcalf, of West Palm Beach (Palm Beach and West
Palm Beach are situated in Dade County, its seat of government is located at
Juno, on Lake Worth), are rendering this section of Florida invaluable service
in vigorously opposing the political and civic domination wielded by the Florida
East Coast Railway Corporation. This aggressive group of citizens is convinced
that Miami and Dade County will not make much progress as long as it remains
under control of special interests. Those who are identified with the opposition
are called "Antis" (I am one of them), and those who happen to be in the
mercantile business receive no patronage from their antagonists. However, we are
compensated for this loss of trade by the good will of the common people.

   I am convinced that a public utility monopoly possessing political power is a
menace to the locality in which it operates. I shall therefore do all in my
power to support the courageous citizens in their efforts to destroy the growing
politicical influence this ambitious corporation is wielding, through its
ubiquitous partisans in this promising town. Although we were defeated in the
first election held in this city in our effort to put some of our men on the
City Council, we are undismayed and every one of us is determined to follow up
the activity started against the Corporationists, until their political power is
vitiated. None of us has anything against the Corporation partisans personally.
They are nice fellows, whose company we enjoy when we come in contact with one
another, but we don't like their connections.

   In spite of this deplorable situation we entertain the highest respect for
Henry M. Flagler personally. He is doing a great work in developing this wild
country. Then, too, he is a most agreeable gentleman. His two chief lieutenants,
J. R. Parrott and James E. Ingraham, are also very fine gentlemen, but they are
too easily influenced by their local leaders. However, I consider our own
leaders more than a match for them. We are at a great disadvantage in not having
a people's newspaper in this town. But Sam Fitts assures us that it is only a
matter of time when such a paper will be established — then watch the fur fly.


Additional Comments:

Extracted from:

HISTORICAL SKETCHES AND SIDELIGHTS OF MIAMI, FLORIDA
BY ISIDOR COHEN

MIAMI
PRIVATELY PRINTED

1925

Copyright, 1925,
By ISIDOR COHEN,
MIAMI, FLORIDA

PRINTED IN THE U. S. A. 
UNIVERSITY PRESS, CAMBRIDGE, MASS.


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