HISTORY: Madison County, Iowa From the A.T. Andreas Illustrated Historical Atlas of the State of Iowa, 1875 ************************************************* Copyright. All rights reserved. http://www.usgwarchives.net/copyright.htm ************************************************* MADISON COUNTY. Madison is in the third tier from the south line of the state, and corners Polk County on the southwest. Its area is about 576 square miles, or 368,640 acres. PHYSICAL FEATURES. The county is within the region of the "three rivers," separately known as North, Middle and South Rivers, which with their numerous small affluents form an admirable system of drainage for nearly the entire county, leaving but a very small area tributary to other streams. Springs are numerous along the valleys, and water may be obtained almost anywhere in wells of moderate depth. The rapid slope and rocky beds of the principal streams render them highly valuable for water power, which is afforded at frequent intervals. Timber is abundant along the principal streams, and the county has enough for all its local needs, consisting of all the varieties common in Iowa. It is frequently of heavy growth and excellent quality. The area of the county is divided between the middle and upper coal- measures, the latter predominating. The boundary line between them is several miles northeast of Winterset, running transversely to the course of the streams. Although exposure of the rocks of the middle measure are found in the deep valleys as far up as Winterset, no coal has been found in the strata of the upper measure, and only a very limited amount in those of the middle measure, the productive coal beds lying mostly within the lower measure, which here passes below the others far underneath the surface. The rocks of the upper coal-measure abound in excellent building stone, and the quarries of the county have become famous. Some good sandstone is procured, but the limestone is by far the most abundant and valuable, some of its beds yielding a very durable material, alike resisting weight and exposure. Other beds yield a very beautiful and valuable material for dressing, taking a good finish and retaining its color admirably, although it is not suitable for polishing. A large proportion of the stone makes excellent quick- lime. Large quantities of Madison County building stone are taken to Des Moines and other places. The surface of the country is high. The great watershed of the Mississippi and Missouri Rivers traverses the southwest corner township. Eastward of this the county presents two distinct divisions in surface, corresponding to its geological divisions. The rocks of the lower coal-measure being soft and easily disintegrated, yielded readily to the erosive action of the glacial epoch, and consequently this portion of the county presents an undulating surface somewhat lower than the remaining portion. The valleys are comparatively broad, and their sides are seldom steep or bluffy. Passing up the streams to the point where the harder rocks of the upper coal-measures appear, and a striking change is observable. The high prairie surface presents comparatively slight undulations, because the underlying rock was but slightly displaced during the glacial epoch. It ends abruptly in steep rocky bluffs, on the borders of the streams which have cut precipitous narrow channels to a great depth through the limestone. These narrow valleys frequently end quite abruptly, as on Clanton's Creek, where at Peru it is nearly two hundred feet deep, while five miles further up it is a mere prairie drain, running upon the drift with gently sloping sides. Thus the streams drop down abruptly from the watershed into deep narrow channels, and again flow out into gently expanding valleys ere they leave the county, giving the surface of the country considerable variety in appearance. The soil is a rich loam, profusely mixed with vegetable mold to an average depth of two feet, and the sub-soil is but little different, except in the absence of vegetable mold for several feet further. The soil is of such texture that it dries rapidly after heavy rains, while at the same time it is deep enough to retain the necessary moisture to enable it to resist drouth admirably. It produces large crops of all the cereals and vegetables grown in Iowa, and a failure in crops is unknown. Fruit growing has proved very successful, and there are few better fruit counties in the state. PIONEERS. A solitary adventurous wanderer from the South who reached the county early in May, 1845, was the pioneer settler of Madison County. This was Hiram Hurst from Andrew County, Missouri. He selected and staked out his claim in Crawford Township, built a cabin, "made" a crop of sod corn, and returned for his family in the Fall. The next were Joel Clanton, Isaac Clanton, Charles Clanton, and Caleb Clark, with their wives and children and worldly goods. They came from the east up the divide between Middle and South Rivers to the creek known as Clanton's Creek, and here located on the 3d of May, 1846. Caleb Clark's daughter, afterwards the wife of Andrew Tusha , was the first white child born in the county. On the same day that the Clanton's arrived, Samuel Guye, his wife and his sons, James, George, Francis, and Houston, came up the divide between Middle and North Rivers and located where the family still reside. In two days they had finished a log house and moved into it. One morning before sunrise they were awakened from slumber by the tinkling of a cow-bell. Breakfast was forgotten, the labors of the day never came to mind in the eagerness which the sound excited, for it told of neighbors. After following the direction of the sound for several miles they came upon the camp-fire of John Evans, south of Cedar Creek. The next day after the Clanton's and Guye's arrived, Crosby B. Jones and Seth Adamson settled on Middle River, in the vicinity of the Huglin mill. Another of the early settlers was P. M. Boyles, afterwards one of the first County Commissioners. He came from Andrew County, Missouri, and immediately constructed a dwelling, six by ten feet of poles covered with basswood bark, in which he and his small family resided six months. It is related that for the first three years he was without means to buy a horse, and once walked to Saylorville and worked two weeks at fifty cents a day to procure money to buy seed corn. Nor was his an exceptional case of privation among the pioneers. Among others who came during the Spring of 1846 were Irwin Baum, Martin Baum, Jacob Combs, John Butler, Lemuel Thornburgh, J. B. Bedell, Wm. Combs, and Wm. Butler; and among those who settled during the Summer and Fall were Alfred D. Jones, E. Bilderback, B. McDonald, David, Enos, and Joseph Bishop, C. J. Casebier, David Cracraft, J. T. Carson, Josh Casebier, Robert Deshaser, John Deshaser, J. K. Evans, John Esley, W. J. Esley, Louisa Fiddler, Wm. Gentry, D. D., Henry W. Harman, A. Hart, C. Jones, P. T. Jones, C. Mendenhall, G. Michael, D. McKenzie, G. W. McKenzie, Clayborn Pitzer, A. Q. Rice, C. Randall, J. B. Sturman, T. Stewart, J. Thornburgh, J. Vanhouten, Michael Whilhit, John Wilkinson, B. Wagoner, and E. Ward. Alfred D. Jones, was one of the most conspicuous men in the early affairs of the county. He settled on the "Narrows," four miles east of Winterset, where the old Fort Des Moines road enters the timber, and erected here two log houses; one he used for a dwelling, and the other became the first store in the county. P. M. Boyles hauled the first goods for him from Keokuk with oxen. Here, also, the first post office was established, with Mr. Jones as post master. It was called Mt. Pelier, and the mail was brought by A. Snyder from Raccoon Forks semi-occasionally. Wm. Compton erected the first grist mill on Middle River, where the Town of Buffalo has grown up around it. He purchased the site of Hart & Hinkley, who had in operation a small "corn cracker." Doctor J. H. Gaff was the first physician who located in the county, and hi son, Francis M., was the first white male child born in the county. John Evans was the first preacher in the county. The first pair united in matrimony were David S. Smith and Jane Carson, April 19, 1849. The ceremony was performed by Seth Adamson, J. P. Number two was Meshack Casteel and Sarah Evans, August 19, 1849. The county was surveyed into sections in 1849, by John A. Pitzer and Enoch Eastman, having been previously divided into townships. Mr. Pitzer had charge of the survey in the north half of the county. The land was brought into market the following year, and the first entries were made in November. Mr. Pitzer thereafter remained in the county, and started the first store in Winterset. He became one of the most prominent men in the county, and was honored with the office of County Judge from 1851 to 1860. In the Spring of 1849 the settlers organized a great snake hunt to get rid of the venomous reptiles which were very numerous. The hunt resulted in the death of 3,750 rattlesnakes. Prior to 1849 the utmost privation was undergone by the pioneers. They had no market for their produce, but the season of 1849 brought a market to their doors for all they could spare in the California immigration. Those were truly golden days for the early settlers of the county. ORGANIZATION. Madison County was defined by an act of the Territorial Legislature, approved January 13, 1846, but it was not fully organized until April, 1850. William Combs, David Bishop, and Wm. Gentry were the County Commissioners to locate the seat of justice, who selected the site of Winterset in July, 1849, for the seat of justice, then the premises of John Gulberson, who received for it the sum of $194.50., from the county. It is said to have obtained its name in this wise; The day was quite cold and blustry, and the Commissioners had been upon the ground all day and met in Berger's house for the purpose of giving it a name. A score or more of names were suggested, and Summerset was the favorite, whereupon Combs, who had been nodding under the influence of a fluid popularly known as "sod corn," suddenly broke out with, "I think we'd a darned sight call her Winter- (hic)-set;" and his suggestion was unanimously adopted. The town was surveyed and platted July 18, 1849, by Alfred D. Jones, assisted by P. M. Boyles and Enos Berger. The first county officers were elected probably in April, 1849. The Commissioners were those named above; Clerk, G. W. McClellan; Recorder, P. M. Boyles; Treasurer Joseph K. Evans; Surveyor, Alfred D. Jones, Prosecuting Attorney, Alfred D. Jones. The first court in the county was held May 31, 1849, by Judge William McKay, of Des Moines. A room used for the joint purpose of a store and saloon was given up for the use of the court, and here the judge took his place behind the bar or counter to transact the business of the term. Soon after the location of the county seat, a large double log cabin was erected for county purposes, on the lot later known as Monumental Square. Besides accommodating the courts and county offices, it was used for a school house, meeting house, and a resting place for weary travelers, to whom its doors were open at all hours. In 1851 the county found it necessary to provide for offenders, and erected a two story log building for a jail. It was torn down in 1866. In the Spring of 1868 was commenced the erection of the present magnificent court house at Winterest. The building is in the form of a Greek cross, one hundred feet each way, with four fronts exactly alike. The building is constructed of cut stone, taken from the excellent quarries near the place, and is surmounted by a grand octagonal dome. The height of the spire is about one hundred and fifty feet from the ground, the top of the dome more than a hundred feet. The basement extends eight feet above the ground level, and is used chiefly for storing fuel. The first floor is fitted up into offices, and furnished with fire- proof vaults. The second story is about twenty-two feet high, and contains the court room, judge's and attorney's rooms and jury rooms; besides which, one of the arms of the cross is fitted up as a jail. RAILROADS. On the 24th day of December, 1853, an election was held in Madison County for the purpose of determining whether the county would subscribe one hundred thousand dollars stock in the Philadelphia, Ft. Wayne & Platte River Railroad. It resulted in favor of the loan by one hundred and eighty-three to ninety-four. The route of this projected road was surveyed from New Boston, on the Mississippi, to Council Bluffs, by Alfred D. Jones, passing through Winterset; but it was never built, and the county never issued the bonds in payment of its subscription. The Chicago, Rock Island & Pacific Railroad was completed to the Missouri River in 1868. It passes through two townships only of Madison County, near the north line. Subsequently the citizens of the county subscribed largely to secure the building of the railroad from Winterset to Des Moines, which was completed, giving the county generally a good railroad outlet. AGRICULTURAL SOCIETY. The Madison County Agricultural Society was organized in 1856, and has held fairs annually ever since. The first fair was held on Cedar Creek, just north of P. M. Boyles' residence. It is said that it was attended by the people of the county en masse, who have continued to interest themselves greatly in its success. The society now owns beautiful and commodious grounds, one-half mile west of Winterset, enclosed with a good substantial fence, and furnished with suitable and convenient buildings, stalls, sheds, wells, etc., for the purposes of exhibitions, and provided with a good half-mile track. WAR RECORD. Madison County sent seven hundred and ten men to the Union armies during the War of the Rebellion, without counting re-enlistments-nearly one- tenth of its entire population-and was represented in eighteen different regimental organizations. Forty-two of the number held commissions. To honor and perpetuate the memory of those who gave their lives for the defense of their country, a marble monument was erected on the park known as Monumental Square, in Winterset, in 1867. The monument committee was chosen in October, 1865, consisting of Colonel H. B. J. Cummings, 39th Iowa, President; Flora Winkly, Secretary; J. J. Davies, Treasurer; E. W. Fuller, Mrs. Mary A. Hutchings and Miss Emma McCaughan, Executive Committee. Sub-committees were appointed in each township to solicit contributions. Festivals, lectures, exhibitions, etc., were given in Winterset and elsewhere to procure funds. The county donated the "old court house" lot and "old jail" lot for a site. The jail lot was sold, and another purchased adjoining the court house lot. These grounds are fenced and decorated, and in the center a beautiful shaft of marble rises twenty feet above the level of the park. It was dedicated October 7, and completed in December, 1867. The Madison County Teachers' Institute was organized at Winterset in October, 1858, and has been the means of accomplishing a great deal for the good of the cause of education. Its meetings are invariably well attended, both by teachers and citizens interested in the progress of education. WINTERSET. This prosperous young city, the county seat of Madison County, lies in the geographical center of the county. It is pleasantly located on excellent ground about one mile distant from Middle River. Surrounded, as we have seen, by a superb agricultural district, with wood and stone very convenient, and coal easily accessible, it is a commercial center of more than usual importance among the country towns of Iowa. The number of stone edifices it contains gives it an appearance unlike any other city in that region. The sidewalks are generally paved with the same material. EARLY HISTORY. Enos Berger was the first settler in Winterset, and built the first house soon after it was surveyed in 1849. He was also the first post master of the office established there soon after. Berger was for some years treasurer and recorder of the county, and it is related of him that at one time having more public funds in his possession than he could conveniently carry, there being no bank or safe for deposit near, he kept them in his wife's stocking under the bed. A neighbor observed that this was rather a loose way to keep the funds, when Berger replied, "Tut, tut, man; there is no vault in America safer than my wife's stocking." John A. Pitzer built the first stone house in the Summer of 1849, on the west side of the square. Soon afterward Alfred D. Jones erected another log store, and a man by the name of Roberts built a third, on the north side of the square. The "Old Goe House," the first hotel, was erected the same season by Berger. It was a story-and-a-half log building, the largest in the county. A. D. Jones, E. R. Gulberson and others erected log dwelling houses the same season. The residence of John A. Pitzer, erected the following season, was the first frame house in the county. In 1856 Mr. Pitzer built the Pitzer House, afterward the St. Nicholas Hotel, then the largest hotel in southwestern Iowa, at a cost of $12,000. In this year the town began building and improving rapidly, and several substantial stone edifices were erected. SCHOOL HOUSE. The Winterset public school building is a superb edifice, located on an eminence overlooking most of the city. The spacious grounds are beautifully ornamented. The edifice was completed in the Fall of 1868, at a cost of $30,000. It is constructed of native stone, and its dimensions are sixty-five and a half by eighty-one and a half feet, two stories and basement, with a front projection of six by nineteen feet, and contains eight rooms thirty by thirty feet each, two rooms sixteen by twenty-five feet each, and two halls-sixteen by forty feet each. A well-proportioned cupola adds beauty and symmetry to the building, and contains a bell weighing four hundred and twenty pounds. The rooms are well finished, and furnished with all the modern conveniences. NEWSPAPERS. In 1856 Mr. James Bor (?) brought an old press and type from Sandusky, Ohio, by wagon to Winterset, and commenced the publication of The Iowa Pilot, which he continued nearly a year, when it was purchased by a joint stock company and published in the interests of the Republican party, by the name of The Winterest Madisonian. In the Fall of 1857 J. J. Davis bought and published it until the Fall of 1862, when it passed into the hands of Oliver H. Ayers, who sold to J. M. Holliday. Mr. Holliday sold to C. S. Wilson, and he to H. M. Ewing. Each of these gentlemen published the paper about a year. Mr. E. W. Fuller took it off Mr. Ewing's hands, and published it two years, when he sold to Davis & Ewing, who, about a year afterward, sold to H. J. B. Cummings. It is now published by Mr. Cummings and S. H. Springer. It is a well-conducted paper, Republican in politics, issued Wednesdays, and has a large and increasing circulation. It has been four times enlarged since its foundation. The Winterset Palladium, a six-column, Democratic sheet, was started in 1859 by I. C. Browne, who, after publishing it nine months, moved the office to Cass County. The Winterset Sun was a lively semi-weekly Republican paper, started in 1868 by C. S. Wilson and J. M. Holliday. The Winterset News is a well-conducted Democratic paper, established January 1, 1872, by I. C. Morgan. April 25, 1875, it was purchased by G. D. Palmer, established January 1, the present owner and editor. It has a good circulation and a prosperous business. Winterset has no commercial rival within twenty-five miles, and enjoys a flourishing and increasing trade. It has numerous prosperous church societies and fine church edifices, and several flourishing benevolent societies. Massive business blocks and beautiful residences adorn its precincts, and its people are prosperous, moral and intelligent. The professions are well represented. The city was incorporated in 1869. The Madison Woolen Mills, an extensive manufacturing establishment built in 1865, is situated one and a half miles west of Winterset. COUNTY OFFICERS FOR 1875. CHAS. A GOODALE, Auditor. JOHN W. GRAHAM, Recorder. ELIHU G. BARKER, Treasurer. WM. O. LUDLOW, Sheriff. EDWIN O. BURT, Clerk of Courts. H. W. HARDY, Superintendent. W. H. LEWIS, Chairman Board of Supervisors.