ALL SAINTS' DAY A DAY AMONG THE GRAVES. "There's Rosemary; That's for Remembrance." Submitted by Rose Albrizio September 2004 Source: Daily Picayune November 2, 1885 - Page 2 ************************************************* Copyright. All rights reserved. http://www.usgwarchives.net/copyright.htm http://www.usgwarchives.net/la/lafiles.htm ************************************************ ALL SAINTS' DAY A DAY AMONG THE GRAVES. "There's Rosemary; That's for Remembrance." Of all the observances and religious ceremonies peculiar to the South none are more characteristic and interesting than the ceremonies attendant upon All Saints' Day. No matter how desolate, unvisited and neglected the cemeteries may be through all the year, as the time of All Saints' Day approaches these quiet resting places are thronged with busy workers cleaning up, repairing and decorating tombs for the one day in the year that is sacred to all the saints. For a week or ten days before the first of November hundreds of men and boys find employment in the cemeteries. They make walks, trim flowers, dig flower beds, paint, whitewash and plaster the tombs. A colony of small shops spring up about the gates of these cities of the dead. To a stranger nothing can be more curious than the long rows of improvised booths and eating houses that line both sides of Canal street in the neighborhood of the "ridge" cemeteries. Tables are set up, charcoal furnaces lit, and the colored cooks tempt wayfarers, workmen and idlers with pots of French coffee, with platters of fried fish, ham, eggs, rice and cakes innumerable. Later on in the week women appear offering grave decorations for sale - these consist of miles of black and white bead ornaments, holy pictures, wreaths of shiny black paper cambric, of white tissue paper decorated with silver leaves, legends in purple immortelles - such as "To my Mother," doulouraux souvenirs, "A Mon fils," etc., etc. Mountains of white shells are sold, and a perfect seashore of sand, white and shining; and in the cemeteries the white walks are peopled with black-robed women tending the flowers about their beloved dead, while happy-voiced children play hide-and-seek in and out among the tombs, and tumble all unconsciously over the grassy mounds heaped above hearts whose disquiet has been merged into the sweet of rest perpetual. THE OLDEST CEMETERIES in New Orleans are those known as the St. Louis Cemeteries, situated in the French quarter, just off Canal street. There are the old St. Louis and St. Louis Nos. 1, 2, and 3. The flower of the French and Spanish chivalry lie buried in the old St. Louis Cemeteries; the blood of kings and princes has gone to dust behind those mouldering walls of brick and stone. For hours one may wander up and down these quiet aisles, where the towering marble walls are emblazoned with the story of many a name famous in the history of the Province of Louisiana. The first of the these cemeteries approached from Canal street is on Basin, between Conti and St. Louis streets. In this white city of the dead has grown a perfect stone forest of sepulchers - so thickly are they strewn that the common avenues have been cut off. On All Saints' Day, where there are thousands of the unremembered dead lying behind their untended, uncared tombs, the appearance is one of general decoration. Long white priest-blessed candles burn like pale stars at these strange shrines - wreaths, pictures, costly vases crowned with costly flowers, splendid designs woven in immortelles, are to be seen on all sides. Here in this place, in ponderous mausoleums, lie the bones of members of the Mandeville de Marigny family, of the Soniat-Dufossats, of the Derbignys, of the Villere and de Villieres. How long a list of gallant names rush to the lips as the visitor idles slowly by. In the very heart of this old burying-place the sharp-sighted visitor may stumble across a tall gray stone table tomb - with a flat top - covered by a slab of gray stone. After a lapse of seventy-two years the grave was opened a few months since when all that was left of the great litigant of America, that quaint, sharp, brilliant old woman Myra Clark Gaines, was laid away with her father, Daniel Clark. Daniel Clark died in 1813. When the Clark tomb was opened to receive Mrs. Gaine's body it may be remembered that the workmen found only A THIN LINE OF DUST, far less than the outlines of a form, trailing along the narrow shelf. All was resolved into dust, not even a coffin nail was left. It was annihilation. Years ago this Clark monument was falling to pieces, but an inscription says it was rebuilt in 1854, by his old friend Richard Relf. Not very far from the Clark tomb is another upon which no fresh flowers are placed on the morning of All Saints Day and before whose old-fashioned lettered head stone no blessed candles will flicker in the soft sunlight. This is the grave of Jean Etienne Bore, born in 1741 and dead in 1771. Bore was the first man to make sugar in Louisiana - his name should be one of the unforgotten names in the history of the sugar State. Still another abandoned grave, or one that appears long neglected, in that of Francis Van Predelle, who served during the American Revolution as an officer in the French army, and who was buried in the old St. Louis 76 years ago - 1808. On another vault is traced the name and deeds of Etienne Marmial Perez, "ancient Lieutenant-Colonel" in service of Spain, and who died in 1814, aged 80 years. How strangely eerie it makes one feel to read the last records of these old soldiers! Presently the visitor turns from the inspection of the costly marble mausoleums and huge white houses of sepulchers, to the narrow walk bound on one side by the many storied rows of vaults where each of the dead has but indeed a narrow house. How strange and almost startling is the view as the eye glances down the black, long avenue along that solid wall of graves upon whose front the chiseler Time has been at work. The dust of ages made futile by the sacred dust within those narrow shelves has covered the crevices in the old brick wall and roof with vines and weeds, and as the wind blows the tall stalks of the yellow-flowered golden rod swing over the crumbling ledges to look down on the passers-by. How golden-yellow are the blossoms! Like the antlered golden candelabra we sometimes see on the high altars of the church. And where the plaster and mortar has broken off the spontaneous vines essay to hide THE TRACES OF MAN'S NEGLECT. >From out the fissures the sturdy stems of the cockscomb spring out like swords, the bare stems crowned with a royal tuft of deepest crimson velvety bloom. All along the wall you may see these kindly efforts of Nature - her own unasked-for tributes to the forgotten dead. But not all who lie in these vaults are forgotten; many of the grave-plates or slabs are sheltered by wooden railings, by glass cases, a shelf arrangement not unlike a mantelpiece, by a fender of iron, and upon these are placed wreaths of immortelles, fresh rosebuds, and other offerings of those who still remember. On some of the stained, uncared for tombs the weather-beaten remnants of former offerings still cling like fingers to the mildewed walls. Here one may note the empty mis-shapen frame work of a cross, and the old bead wreaths clinging in desperation look like nothing so much as giant spiders crawling over the graves in search of prey. Down in one corner of the wall of vaults, with lizards playing all over the defaced stone, is marked the resting place of Charlotte, Countese Montecuccoli Laderchi, born Princess Oertingen Wallerstein, and Albert Laderchi, her son. It is many a long year since any one has visited that lowly grave, the old sexton, Moise Rodrigue, tells the curious visitor. Following along the same wall that contains this royal dust an observing eye will discover one or two INTERESTING EPITAPHS. One is copied verbatim: "O, husband dear, do pray for me as you'r now so wanst was I, and as I am now so you shall be. Prepared for death and follow me, where we will meet on this Heavenly shore, there we will meet to part no more. O, husband you I did adore and to my God I will implore, to guide you to this heavenly shore, to sing God's praise for ever more." A little further on, the deep cut letters, almost wind and weather beaten out of the marble, is the following: "Our God to call us homeward His only Son sent down. And now still more to tempt our hearts, Has taken up our own." And again: "Dear mother, go and dry your tears, For I must lay here till Christ appears." One wonders what sad-hearted, disappointed manner of man it was who leaves this valedictory on his grave: "Friendship is but a name, A charm that lulls to sleep, A shade that follows wealth and fame, And leaves the wretch to weep." In the same cemetery, near the northern wall, stands the top of a flat tomb a beautiful but time-stained shaft of sculptured marble, erected over the remains of Clarice Duvalde, wife of Gov. C. C. Claiborne, the Governor of Louisiana. She died in 1809, only 20 years old. This Madame Claiborne - the first wife lies in a very different tomb in that tiny little patch of the graveyard once known as the UNCONSECRATED GROUND, and which place is boarded off by a rough fence from the rest of the graves. Forgotten graves - the unregarded dead! One must climb to the top of that fence and look over into the jungle that exists there to know what it means to call the dead forgotten. Until a few years ago the dust of Gov. Claiborne lay in this waste place, but it has been removed to the grandeur of a tomb in beautiful Metairie. Looking down on the patch of ground one sees a thicket of brier and bramble and dank weeds all squirming and alive with green and brown lizards and ancient willows weep over the carved marble groves that show a hard white corner here and there through the thickets. A huge fire has just died out on a mound in the centre of this place, a ghostly, ghoulish fire it must have been, since the half-burned lids of two coffins still remain. One hastens in a fright from this spot that is unknown to all the town, and turning to the left looks in at the peaceful, carefully tended resting-place of Dr. Layton whose name is honored by all the citizens of New Orleans. During the past year the great chess player, Paul Morphy, was placed in the family tomb in this graveyard, and a few weeks later his old mother was laid beside her son, and the quaint, narrow, brown little house on Royal street, with its round-eyed windows, its steep roof taller than the forest trees growing in the old courtyard, know them no more. Two blocks farther away, facing on St. Louis and Claiborne streets, are the St. Louis Cemeteries, Nos. 1, 2 and 3. They extend in a row, one right after the other, and THE GRAVES ARE THICKER HERE than in any other cemetery in town. In one of these Margaret, that rare and royal Lady Bountiful, is buried. On All Saints' Day what precious tributes of flowers and candles are hers; one might climb to Heaven on the ladder of prayers that are breathed out by the grateful ones for her sake. In the St. Louis No. 1, a great square granite tomb, surmounted by a stately column of Scotch granite, has been, long years ago, erected to the memory of the noble Scotchman Alexander Milne, the founder, by act of the Legislature, of the Milne Orphan Asylum. Alexander Milne has been dead a long time and only dust and weeds lie on his grave; neither flowers nor any signs of regret or gratitude or remembrance - only that tall, grand, emblazoned shaft, that none regard save the newspaper writer. One of the most imposing and costly tombs in the St. Louis Cemeteries is that of the Italian Benevolent Society. It cost $60,000, is large, the shape of a temple and in the niches are superbly carved statues. In St. Louis No. 2 is the monument of the Spanish Benevolent Society with the simple impressive word "Silencio," carved upon the frieze. Among the unusual inscriptions was noted the following: "In health and strength put not your trust The longest liver is but dust; Prepare yourself, make no delay, For I in haste was called away." Many halt to gaze on the clean-kept tomb of Dominique Yon, one of Lafitte's lieutenants, a great politician in his day, and who was buried here by the Louisiana Legion at the expense of the municipality; that of the gallant commander of the Louisianians at Chalmette, Gen. J. B. Pluche; the ponderous monument of Chief Justice Francis Xavier Martin; the modest tomb of Oscar J. Dunn, Louisiana's colored Lieutenant Governor. Long years ago the old Girod Street Cemetery was considered one of the "fashionable" burying grounds. The registers in charge of the kind old sexton go back for fifty years, and the graves in the crowded place are thicker than the pine trees in the scented forests of St. Tammany. The Girod Cemetery, notwithstanding it is sown so thick with the dead of ages, is a quiet, grassy old place, set out with trees whose branches bend in cathedral like arches over urn and sculptured pall. Here also one will find many tombs of names familiar. The granite vault of Benjamin Story is in this cemetery, also the grave of Richard Relf and the old tomb of the Slocomb family. Here also is the beautiful broken shaft around which the ivy wreaths its glossy leaves, erected to Lieut. Col. Bliss, the son-in-law and private secretary of President Zachery Taylor. About the base of the shaft are words telling the story of his gallant deeds when a soldier in the Mexican war. He died at Pascagoula of yellow fever in 1853. Here is the modest tomb of Montegue, THE HEROIC PILOT, who "held her nozzle to the bank" till every being on the ill-fated boat had escaped to shore, when he, gallant martyr went down in flames that surmounted the pilot-house. Another noteworthy grave - a queer gray stone charnel house, untended and fast falling to decay, is that of Jane Placide, the actress, who was buried there many years ago. Irwin Russell, the brilliant, ill-starred young poet, the friend of Bunner, the protégé of the Scribners, was buried in the Girod Cemetery on Christmas Day of 1879. In Girod street graveyard is also the tomb of Gen. William Palfrey and of Dr. Orson Carey. There are graves here that have not been opened in fifty years, but the prying fingers of Time are already busy at the crumbling bricks, and one is afraid to look too closely, as in the St. Louis Cemetery, for fear that he will see too much. The Lafayette or Washington Street Cemetery had been put into the most beautiful order for the day of All Saints. Its wide walks of white shells glisten snow white in the sun, its marble tombs are as white and pure as when fresh quarried, and the long double rows of trees cast shadows on a sward like velvet, and the air is faint with the odor of the sweet olive blossoms. In the Washington Cemetery lie buried GEN. JOHN B. HOOD, his wife and the little child Marie, who died on the same day with her father, and who lies in the same vault. The Hennen tomb, in which the Hood family are buried, is a triple compartment tomb of marble, in the shape of a cross, and surmounted by a slender marble cross. It stand next to the vacant lot which a year ago held the sacred dust of Gov. Allen, marked by the shaft of Tennessee marble, and which has been recently removed to Baton Rouge. Nothing is left but the tall frascati bushes and sweet-scented trees of olive. There are many handsome vaults in this burial place. The tombs of Alfred and Henry Isaacson, of the Van Benthuysens, of Mr. Milton Randall, and of Mr. John P. Richardson. The Richardson tomb is enclosed in a tall oval mound of turf, with marble doors set in a stone frame. Behind those shining doors have been laid the forms of two little chilcren, Calla and Ella, and the flowers never fade on the threshold of their grave. The girdle of high ground that is clasped half about the tomb and is called THE RIDGE, is crowned upon its summit by the ridge of cemeteries, the beautiful Metairie, the Greenwood, with its dense avenues of magnolias, the Firemen's Cemetery, and there many a hero lies under the sod; the two St. Patrick Cemeteries, the Jewish graveyard, the Masonic, the Odd Fellows', and others are on the ridge. The citizen points with pride to the Metairie; to its hundred costly tombs and monuments, among the most beautiful of which are the Army of Tennessee monument, the Howard, Morris and Baldwin family tombs, as well as many others. The brilliant poet, scholar and physician, Dr. Bruns, lies under the turf in Metairie. But recently the earth of Metairie has been mounded over the body of Walter Smallwood, the founder and real organizer of the New Orleans Produce Exchange. Quintero, the genial "Don" and gentle poet so long identified with the Picayune, sleeps in Metairie. In the Firemen's Cemetery are many imposing monuments - that to Irad Ferry and of J. I. Munro, the war Mayor of New Orleans. Here also are the tombs of the Gasquet family, the Leeds tomb and the splendid Sloo monument. How thronged is St. Patrick's and with what infinite care the green hillocks of graves are tended. There are faded, old inscriptions to be traced on the wooden headboards in the St. Patrick's No. 1; and across Canal street, behind the iron gateways of St. Patrick's No. 2, are many grander shafts of marble and piles of sculptured stone. One of the most beautiful live oak trees in all the city stands right in the central pathway of St. Patrick's. The shadow of its branches rests upon a thousand graves; its festoons of crape-like moss swing in the wind. It is the monument that nature has erected sacred to those "who die in the Lord." In many of the cemeteries THE FLORAL TRIBUTES this year were singularly fine and beautiful. At the large establishments of Maitre and Baker, the flower workers were busy filling orders up to noon of Sunday. These florists have had unusually large orders, and have been busy for the past two weeks getting ready for yesterday. Large set designs, done in handsome dried cape flowers and immortelles were largely used this year. Some of Maitre's executions in this way, and in natural flowers as well, were superb, and Baker sent out, amongst other things, a pillow of white camellias. The tomb of Mr. Charles Howard was covered with flowers. Among the handsomest designs were a broken wheel of white flowers, six very tall crosses, six large flat wreaths, and numbers of choice bouquets of stephanotis, etc. The tomb of Mike Farrell, the famous detective, was decorated with a large cushion of natural flowers, the gift of his old comrades. The grave in Lafayette No. 1, of the young soldier, Charlie McLellan, who died in 1865, was ornamented with a large white anchor, many wreaths and bouquets. The Kernochan monument in St. Louis Cemetery bore a beautiful tribute in natural flowers - "The Gates Ajar" - the golden gates being woven of yellow chrysanthemums, also a number of exquisite bouquets of the most costly hothouse flowers. The grave of baby Marie, daughter of Mr. and Mrs. Chas. Bush, in Metairie, had before its doors a large panel woven of white cape flowers with a bundle of half-ripe wheat in the centre, and underneath a sickle woven in purple immortelles. The panel rested on an easel of smilex. At the Morris McGraw tomb was placed a superb anchor mounted on an easel; underneath in purple violets was traced the words "In God's Care." Beside this beautiful emblem stood a large scroll of white chrysanthemums. At the Hyams tomb was a large design in natural flowers. Faith, Hope and Charity, represented by a cross, anchor and crown springing from a tall shaft. This was entirely made of roses. At the Van Benthuysen tomb, in Washington Cemetery, was noted a beautiful star and crescent, also a large oval of flowers. The Dell'Orto tomb in Metairie had the handsome design of Gates Ajar done in flowers, with the words, "Well Done" in the mossy sod beneath the gates. Also two large broken columns, with "Father" on one and "Mother" on the other. Before the sealed marble doors of the De Marigny tomb, in St. Louis No. 1, was placed a superb bed of half-blown roses; this was four feet long and two wide. There were also many crosses and wreaths. The offerings at the Maginnis monument consisted of a lovely wreath and pillow; the words Charlie and Baby were written across these white blossoms in letters of purple violets. The family tomb of Mr. John Thorn was decorated with a large white pillow of flowers and a tall and handsome cross. Two baskets of white rosebuds stood before the Hornor tomb. It is the beautiful custom of the Continental Guards to place on All Saints Day a basket of flowers at the grave of each dead member. Yesterday the Continentals paid this touching tribute at thirty graves. The Maginty tomb, in Metairie, had upon its marble steps a superb cross five feet high, made of natural flowers, also several wreaths. The Mauberret tomb was ornamented with a lyre of fresh flowers that was almost five feet long. At the receiving vault of Metairie, the grave containing the remains of the mother of Mrs. Hoyle, were placed pillows of flowers, and a beautiful cross and crown mounted on an oval frame. The Marinoni tomb, in Metairie, was decorated with a chaste cross of white and pale pink flowers; the cross, mounted on a pedestal, stood four feet high. A broken wreath hung over the tomb of J. J. Finney. THE DAILY PICAYUNE - NEW ORLEANS, MONDAY, NOVEMBER 2, 1885 - page 2