Duplin County, NC - William Grimes Papers TRAVELS IN TEXAS April 1854 April 1st, 1854. This is Saturday Morning. Cloudy, stormy, rainy morning. Holds up at 8 o’clock. I then start for Moore’s landing on my way to Texas. Before I arrive at the river, faired off cold and windy. Had to wait for a steamer. Apr. 2. Sunday, cold frosty morning. Remain at the landing all day till 11 o’clock at night, then took the Steamer Fashion, Capt. J. May. Apr. 4. Clear & cold. Leave Mobile at 2 o’clock on Steamer California for New Orleans, fair evening. Apr. 5. Land at lake shore at 4 o’clock and take first cars for the City. Put up at Commercial Hotel, convenient to the Galveston Steamer. On my hither, I became acquainted with Mr. Borden, the inventor of the steam gauge and spent part of my time in his office. Apr. 6. Dull cloudy but gusty weather. I look at the City and basin canal. Lease shipping & etc. Apr. 7. Cloudy but fairs off fine. While here I saw Jos. McCarty & spent some time with him. Visited the steamers Eclipse, Glendale & Michigan, they are fine. Take passage in the Charles Morgan at 8. Out at 4 o’clock. Apr. 8. Saturday, beautiful day. About 4 o’clock light squall. Reached the pilots station about sunset, fired a gun, took on board a pilot. The night was calm moonshine and we landed at the wharf at Galveston 10 o’clock and went to the Tremont Hotel with Gen’l. J.L. Hunter of Barbour County, Ala & Dr. Blake Little, formerly of Sumpter County. Apr. 9. Sunday, cold norther. Remain here all day. Saw John Dean & Cramer, his partner. Galveston is a beautiful place. Went to Church. Apr. 10. Wind N., cold, clear & beautiful weather. Leave at 3’o’clock on Steamer Neptune, Capt. Sterrit, for Houston. Pass out of Bay into Bayou at dusk. Land at Houston 12 o’clock. Remain on board till daylight, then go into town. Apr. 11. Cloudy, clears off, very warm. Put up at the Houston Hotel, kept by Elms & Ewing. Saw the town & principal merchants. There is a great deal of business down her. Saw 8 yoke to a wagon. Apr. 12. At 4 o’clock took stage for Montgomery. Pass through a flat prairie. Very bad road, about thirty miles. Arrive at Brices’s Tavern, Montgomery at close of daylight. Borrowed a horse of Mr. Bell. Found Jesse Womack here & he went with me to Frank’s. Full moon, fair & beautiful evening. Apr. 13. Now at F. Womack’s. cloudy. Windy So. pretty hot. Visit F. Womack, Rankin, Dean and others & return. Apr. 14. Rain, hail & wind before day, thunder clouds passing off. Went to Jesse Grimes about 12 miles. Frank went with me. The evening cold & windy, arrive after sunset, find all well. Apr. 15. Fair & cold, wind N., look about at land. Apr. 16. Sunday, fair & cold N. wind. Saw some of the neighbors, came in to see me. Apr. 17. Fair, cold & windy, evening more mild. Apr. 18. Some cloud, wind N. Returned to Frank’s in the evening on little bay mare of J. Grimes. Apr. 19. Fair & pleasant by windy. Went to Fords lake fishing. Caught but few, returned to Frank’s. Apr. 20. Some cloud, went to Montgomery, saw many friends and returned for dinner. Apr. 21. Dined at Uzzell’s. Returned by Dean’s, McKinney’s & J. Womack’s. Apr. 22. Nancy has a son born at sunrise. Windy weather, blowing constantly, cool. Apr. 23. Sunday. Cloudy, warm & windy. Went to J. Grimes. Apr. 24. Cloudy, light rain. Went to Anderson & return. Apr. 25. Flying clouds, warm & very windy. Looking about. Apr. 26. Just like yesterday. Visit the neighbors. Apr. 27. Warm, some cloud, fairs off cold & windy. Apr. 28. Cold, windy, thin flying cloud, very cold, disagreeable. Weather makes me sick. Apr. 29. Fair, cold & frosty. Killing some corn waist high. I am made quite sick by this cold weather. Apr. 30. Cold hazy, wind E. I am up today, fever cooling. The weather for some days past has been cool and windy too much for comfort. JOURNAL FOR MAY 1854 May 1. Monday, fair, turns warm, wind S.E. I go out to look at the country towards Brazos. Saw high rich rolling prairie, some points of timber. Had many fine views over the Brazos. May 2. Tuesday, cloudy, not much wind, looks like rain. May 3. Wednesday, cloudy, little rain. Go to Rufus and elsewhere about the prairie. May 4. Thursday, warm & cloudy. Went to Anderson. A very severe rain and wind. May 5. Friday, cloudy, very wet, fairs off at 10 o’clock from west, then a fine day. May 6. Saturday. Leave J. Grimes’ on a long trip. He goes with me. Stop a while in Anderson, pass through Roan’s Prairie, cross San Jacinto where it is only a flat swamp and ugly creek, shows marks of high water. Traveled 20 miles and say with Jesse Bookman. May 7. Sunday. No bill to pay. Fair & very warm. Travel over a level country. Post oak timber and prairie, alternately, land stiff, not very good. Dine at Judge Crabbs. Pass a skirt of pine timer, then flat stiff poor post oak land. Reach Cincinnati at dark. Stay at Dunlap’s tavern. This town is on the western bank of Trinity River and is declining on account of sickness. We have traveled 34 miles over tolerable good road. May 8. Monday. Bill $1.25. Ferriage 10c. River very low. It is an ugly stream full of logs & snags. The swamp is 5 miles wide on S. side some cane & very rich and overflows deep. I am sick & frequently stop. Travel over flat timbered country, land poor and stiff. In the evening came to prairie, rather poor. Get to Crocket, the county site of Houston, put up at Wall’s tavern. Traveled 37 miles. This is a pretty little village, good brick C.H. May 9. Tuesday. Wall’s bill 1.25. Cloudy, looks like rain. Country broke, some red & some sand, poor ridges, small timber & brushy. Leave the Rusk road late in the evening, turn north for Jacksonville. Traveled 34 miles. Stay at Shaver’s, a poor place, but it was dark and we could do to no other place. May 10. Wednesday. Shaver’s bill 1.00. Cross Neches at Cannon’s ferry, 10c. Very brushy ugly stream, some swamp on west side & high level deep sand, pine woods on east, very poor, then some creeks with some good red land. Reach Jacksonville, 21 miles, small new village. Went to Thomas Grimes. Very pretty country, not rich. May 11. Thursday. Leave T.G.’s alone for Marshall. Cloudy but fairs off. Travel over some brushy country, red stiff soil, black oak timber, new road. Reach Henderson, county site of Rusk, after dark. Put up at Wood’s Hotel. Traveled 37 miles, crossed Bigmuddy and several other creeks, the water of Angelina river. The bottom very pretty, white sand, fine brick C.H. May 12. Friday. Bill 1.50. Cloudy & looks like rain all day, wind south. Pass through Millville, a place where sawing is done extensively & planning. Pass through Camden, a little town on the west bank of Sabine river. There is a low flat muddy swamp about a mile before getting to the town. Cross Sabine, 10c, very pretty little river with high banks. Here is the first place where I have seen the ferry flat carries across both ways by the current. Traveled 40 miles, stay at Mrs. Lane’s at the fork 5 miles west of Marshall. Rained heavily. May 13. Saturday. Rainy morning, bill 1.00. Start in rain, holds up. Stop at Marshall, county site of Harrison. Large town, brick C.H., good schools & business place. Go down to Judge Lister’s 7 miles, meet him on the road. Fairs off warm, look about in evening. May 14. Sunday. Fair & warm. Go to Elysian Fields to see N. Harwell. S. Smith owns this place, only 7 miles to Louisiana. This is a flat wet swampy country. Returned again to Lister’s in the evening. May 15. Monday. Cloudy. My horse got out and ran away. Sent Tom after him. He brings him back 1 o’clock. See Johnston’s, Lawrence and others. May 16. Tuesday, cloudy. Leave Lister’s he goes with me to Marshall. There I part with him & Lawrence. Thunder & light shower. Pass little place called Steal Easy. Faired off quite cool. Stay at Lewis Crane’s. He has very pretty place, red black oak country on west side Sabine river. He is doing well. May 17. Wednesday, fair & cool. Travel up the river by Pine Tree post office. Cross at Kemp’s ferry, 10c. The land lies well and looks well but some is sandy foundation. Pass Starville, saw some good farms. Reach Tyler after dark, put up at Planters Hotel, traveled 40 miles. Tyler is the county site of Smith, a good brick C.H. and very pretty village, Saw S. Frisbie here. May 18. Thursday. Fill 1.50. Now for Jacksonville 33 miles. Pass over some white rock pine ridges through Larissa a pretty little village and to Isaac & Thomas Grimes. Find J.G. waiting for me, all well. May 19. Friday. Leave Thos.Grimes & Jacksonville and travel west. Cross Neches at Posey’s bridge, 10c. Wide swampy place, poor sandy country west then saw some high Redland prairie, rather brushy, fine farms board fence or hedges. Arrive at Palestine, 30 miles, the county site of Anderson. Good brick C.H. Very pretty village, printing office here. May 20. Saturday. Bill 1.50. To Parker’s Bluff, Trinity, 12 miles. The day warm, country poor. The Bluffs is a village on high romantic broken hills east side of river above Magnolia, ferriage 15c. Swamp all on west side 5 miles wide, 4 miles in the finest game grass I ever saw. Stop at Maning’s to see Dr. Allgood & Mr. Jones after traveled 24 miles. The country here poor. May 21. Sunday, bill 1.00. Thunder, rained little. We start on our journey towards Fairfield, little village on open prairie, county site of Freestone, new place. Cross a creek called Caney, some cane in low ground and extensive level timbered hammock for several miles, some strips of prairie and fine grass. Pass Carter’s place on small rocky creek, good spring, fine plantation. Traveled 30 miles and stoop at Reubin Maning’s, very fine old man in a good new country. May 22. Monday. Cloudy, rained some last night. Stop at John Maning’s, looked at his farm located on a new prairie, saw some good prairie. Pass through Springfield, county site of Limestone, on the eastern bank of the Navasota, Hogwallow prairie, small village. Some of the chimneys made of white rock, seems painted with blue. Good bridge, 19 arches, over the Navasota, 10c. Rocky half mile, then level postoak land, 3 miles down to S. Anglin’s. Traveled 26 miles today. May 23. Tuesday. Leave Anglin’s. He lives on the eastern border of an extensive prairie. Our course is through the center lengthwise. It is very high and affords commanding views in all directions. The land is beautiful and rich. Here I saw mesquite trees and high ridges on our right & another in front called the Blue Ridge. Pass over it and large creek. Muddy bad swamp, then over flat poor postoak land to Marlin, county site of Falls, which is a new place in a flat muddy prairie. Put up at Hague Pearson’s, traveled 38 miles. S.O. Shields lives here. May 24. Wednesday. Bill 1.00. Turn up Brazos 9 miles to A.C. Perry’s where troubled with small green heard horse-fly, which is the first we have seen. Some rich spots of prairie, rolling scattering elm and mesquite. May 25. Thursday. Cloudy, rain little. Dine at McDonald’s. Aphriam Smith lives here. Go to Col. Bowen’s in evening. I do not like this country though there is some good land but water is scarce and very bad. May 26. Friday. Hot, foggy, muddy, disagreeable weather, fairs off. Saw an eclipse of the sun. Had clothes washed. May 27. Saturday. Some clouds. Lease Judge Perry’s for Waco. Travel over very high rolling prairie. Have fine views across Brazos. Cross Tehuacana Creek & swamp two miles wide and the worst I ever saw. Swamp so thick was compelled to keep the track with deep mud all the way. Before get to Brazos, saw some fine farms. Arnold’s was my choice. It is the prettiest I every saw. The low or swamp land on the east side of the river is of the best quality & well timbered, passed over, ferriage 20c. Went out to John Stephens. May 28. Sunday. Try to cross Bosque, swift current and no flat. Went to see Judge Eubanks. Can’t cross river. Burney is from home. We stay at Stephen’s and look about til evening then go down to Waco. This is on west bank of Brazos & the county site of McLennan, pretty village, sandy bluff. May 29. Monday. Have Horse shod, 1.00, tavern bill 1.50. Set out for Austin. S.W. course 112 miles open prairie country. Many very pretty streams of most excellent water, the finest springs I ever saw. We ascended the plains for several miles, cross some pretty creeks with clear water, white rock bottoms, swift currents. Land good of chocolate color. Saw one antelope. Travel 30 miles. Stay at Childers on Elm creek. Some timer & mesquites. May 30. Tuesday. Bill 1.25, cloudy, fine rolling prairies. Past through Belton, country site of Bell. Very pretty place on the east of Leon river on the flat. Saw the town several miles, saw some farms far out in the open prairie. There are beautiful live oaks scattered over the plains. Saw today where Burleson and the Indians shot wrongfully. Cross Lampasas ferriage here & Leon 25c each. Stopped & looked at Blair’s Mill. Two mills close together about half a mile to spring at head. They are fine flour mills. His is close to the mouth, where it empties into Lampasas. Travel 33 miles and stay at Sterling Robinson’s. May 31. Wednesday. Bill 1.00, cloudy. He has the best spring I ever saw, it makes large bold creek at once. Pass over a beautiful prairie country. Cross Berry’s creek, through Georgetown, county site of Williamson. Judge Baylor was holding court. Stopped an hour. Saw the vertebra of a large animal petrilled with fangs two feet long. Traveled 31 miles and stayed at Rowland’s. Before day wind blew hard and rained. JOURNAL FOR JUNE 1854 June 1. Thursday. Morning Cloudy, leave Rowland’s pay 1.00. To Austin 18 miles. Arrive at 10 o’clock; stop at A. H. Cook’s. Crossed brushy creek, a large bold stream. A great round rock in it was flat top looks like it had been put there for some particular purpose. There is a little village here called Round Rock. Some of the houses are covered with prepaired cloth, said to be it tight & lasting. The country is broken and rather too much rock for pleasant cultivation, though the soil is good. Austin is not a pretty town though a place of importance. The country & in the town is rough, broken & ugly location. The Capitol is of white marble 150 ft. square and about 50 ft. high. Can be seen a distance of several miles. It stands on a hill. Makes a fine appearance, the Treasury and Land buildings are of the same white rock and look well. There is a floating mill on the river at this place which performs well. June 2. Friday, fair & very warm. Leave Austin after dinner. Mr. Cooks’ bill 1.25. Thunder shower before I leave and another late in the evening. Travel down the Colorado. Stay at Webberville, 15 mile, in a flat prairie, very rich & waxy toward the river bank. June 3. Saturday. Pay bill at Smith’s Tavern. 1.20, go down river, cross at Nash’s ferry, 10c. Am now on the west side of Colorado. Saw cotton blooms & young bolls and the best ferry yet and a beautiful country, open prairie, some timber on the river. We cross the river. Saw a Steamer go into Bastrop, a town of importance, ferriage 10c. Go out 7 miles to R.H. Grimes. Traveled today 28 miles. Now in a poor rock, broken country. Arrive here at 4 o’clock. The weather very warm. June 4. Sunday. Remain here. Fair & very hot weather. June 5. Monday, fair & warm. Stay & look at Henry saw plank. June 6. Tuesday. Cloudy but fairs off warm. Leave Henry’s late in the morning. Allen Grimes with us. Cross Allum creek where a man was hanged a few years ago for murder. Cross Kabbs creek, a large stream, some good farms on it. Traveled over a high table land with fine pine & cedar mixed. Much of the timber had been cut for sawing. Traveled after night for the want of corn to feed our horses. Went through Round Top village. Stay at Greenberry Taylor’s, 43 miles. June 7. Wednesday. Taylor’s bill 1.00. Fine rolling prairie country. Many good farms. Taylor’s place is beautiful. Pass through Independence in an open prairie. The Baylor Baptist College is here, a large white building. Saw it several miles distant. Fine land about and good farms. Traveled 34 miles today. June 8. Thursday. Pay Aldridge’s bill 1.25. Nine miles now to Washington. Have many fine views of the country and on both side of Brazos. This is a tolerable looking town, immediately on the west bank of the Brazos opposite the junction of the Navasota. Saw steamer here. Cross river, 10cts. Ferriage. Traveled 25 miles. Arrive at home, find all well. June 9. Friday. Cloudy, might rain. I return to Frank’s after an absence of seven weeks. Write home to William next morning. The ground is very wet & crops suffering with grass. June 10. Saturday. Cloudy & fair. Went to Montgomery. Return in evening. Saw a number of acquaintances. June 11. Sunday. Fine day. Went to meeting at Montgomery. June 12. Monday. Some clouds. Went to John Womack’s & to Worsham’s. Saw their crops. Spent the day & returned. June 13. Tuesday. Sprinkle of rain & then rained very hard with wind. Ground too wet to plow, crops grassy. The ground is mud except sandy places. June 14. Wednesday. Thunder & rain. Abner & Rankin return from Houston last night with many good things. June 15. Thursday. Rained hard last night & again today. Wagons returned from Houston this evening. Rained all night. June 16. Friday. Windy morning, fairs off, wind SW. Go to Montgomery to attend the Chapter. Very warm, return before day light. June 17. Saturday. Returned to J. Grimes. Find Jos. W. Grimes and Jas. Luftin & their wives there. Dr. David Gillispies came in also. June 18. Sunday. Thin cloud, very warm, rained a heavy shower. June 19. Monday. Fair & very warm. I look at the crop. June 20. Tuesday. I leave Jess’s for the last time. He goes with me to Frank Womack’s. Stop at Isaac Baker’s an hour. June 21. Wednesday. Rained this morning, faired off, warm day. Went to George Deans to barbecue. Enjoyed myself with friends. June 22. Thursday. Start home. Leave Frank’s before day and go to Montgomery to meet the stage, fare 5.00. Dine at Coleman’s, 50 cts. Cross Lake Spring & big & little Cypress Creeks. Arrive at Houston 8 o’clock. June 23. Friday. Remain at Houston til 9 P.M. Fair & very warm. Take passage of Steamer Neptune, 3.00 fare. June 24. Saturday. Arrive in Galveston 8 o’clock A.M. Stop at the Tremont House, dinner 1.00, liquor 40cts. Sleep on board steamer. Pay hack driver 25cts. Wind blowing from SE strong. June 25. Sunday. Leave Galveston on board the Charles Morgan at 8 o’clock A.M. Wind blowing hard and very rough seas & I get sick. Passage fare 15.00. I keep my bed 2 days. June 26. Monday. Wind blowing, some rain. Passengers all sick. June 27. Tuesday morning. Now in the Mississippi. I eat breakfast. Fair & killing hot. Arrive at N.O. at 12, too late to take the mail boat for Mobile. Remain at the Lake. Dinner 1.25, bar 40cts. Buggy hire & toll gate, 2.75, lodging & breakfast, Mrs. Cole, 60cts. June 28. Wednesday. Leave N.O. at 12 o’clock on Steamer California, 5.00. June 29. Thursday. Arrive in Mobile at sunrise. Take coffee 10cts. Take the cars, pay 1.00. Arrive at State line at 12 o’clock. Hire mule 1.00 of Davis & reach home before 9 o’clock. ___________________________________________________________________ Copyright. All rights reserved. http://www.usgwarchives.net/copyright.htm This file was contributed for use in the USGenWeb Archives by Betty Grimes ___________________________________________________________________