Carroll County Features from Merrill's Gazetteer of New Hampshire (1817) Submitted by T.C. Parziale 5/30/00 Copyright. All rights reserved. ************************************************************************ Full copyright notice - http://www.usgwarchives.net/copyright.htm USGenWeb Archives - http://www.usgwarchives.net ************************************************************************ From The Gazetteer of the State of New Hampshire (in three parts), compiled from the best authorities, by Eliphalet Merrill and the Late Phinehas Merrill, Esq., Printed by C. Norris & Co. , Exeter, NH, ©1817, pg 85 Part Two of Gazetteer: KEARSARGE GORE - in Hillsborough county, lies on the southerly side of Kearsarge mountain. It contains 152 inhabitants, and is bounded N. by Wilmot, E. by Salisbury, S. by Warner, and W. by Sutton, comprising an area of 428 acres. In the year 1807, that part of Kearsarge Gore together with a part of New London was incorporated into a town by the name of Wilmot. KEARSARGE MOUNTAIN - in Coos county, lies on the dividing line between Bartlett and Chatham. This is the third range of mountains in the state. Its height has not been ascertained. A gentleman, who resides in the neighborhood of this range observes, that in October 1812, he went in company with two of his neighbors to view the mountain, which lies on the north of Conway, and while ascending was astonished at the singular appearance of the stones, which form the body of the mountain as well as of those which lie on its surface. They all appear to have been once in a fluid state, or to have composed the bottom of some sea. The large masses, as well as the detached pieces, were full of small pebbles of all sizes, forms, and colors, confusedly thrown together and cemented. The small stones retain their perfect shape in the solid mass of which they form a part. The whole appearance in short, indicated, that these pebbles were once in a separate state and were consolidated by some unknown cause. LOVEWELL’S POND- is at the head of the westerly branch of Salmon falls river, in the town of Wakefield. OSSIPEE GORE - a township in Strafford county, incorporated in 1785, and now containing 425 inhabitants; bounded N.E. by Eaton, S.E. by Effingham, and S.W. by Ossipee, comprising 10,331 acres. Ossipee lake lies principally in this town, and is about 1,000 rods long from north to south, and about 600 rods wide. It receives Bear Camp river on its west side and pine river on its south. The waters of this lake are discharged through Ossipee river. OSSIPEE MOUNTAIN - is in the west part of the town of Ossipee adjacent to Moultonborough, and about 4 miles west from Ossipee lake. Its altitude has never been ascertained. On its east side the northwest wind is peculiarly severe. PINE RIVER - flows from a pond of that name in Wakefield. After a N.W. course through Ossipee and part of Effingham it falls into Great Ossipee lake. SWIFT RIVER - has its source among the mountains in the ungranted lands northwest of Whiteface mountain, and 6 or 8 miles from Sandwich. It takes an easterly course through Burton into Conway, where it empties into Saco river. There is another small river of the same name in Tamworth. WHITE MOUNTAINS - These mountains were first explored by Walter Neal and some others in 1631, who described them as a ridge extending a hundred leagues, on which snow lay the whole year. They visited them with the hope of finding precious stones, and having picked up something like crystal, this was sufficient to give the ridge the name of Crystal hills. Dr. Belknap (the historian of New Hampshire) describes these mountains in the following manner; The White mountains are the most elevated part of a ridge, which extends N.E. and S.W. an immense distance. The area of their base is an irregular figure, the whole circuit of which is not less than 60 miles. The number of summits with in this area cannot be ascertained at present, the country around them being a thick wilderness; the greatest number can be seen at one from Jefferson on the N.W. side. Here seven summits appear at one view, of which four are bald. Of these, the three highest are the most distant, being on the eastern side of the cluster, one of these is the mountain, which makes so majestic an appearance all along the shore of the eastern counties of Massachusetts. It has lately received the name of Mount Washington. To arrive at the foot of the mountain there is a continual ascent of 12 miles from the plain of Pigwacket, which brings the traveler to the height of land between the Saco and Ameriscoggin rivers. At this height, there is a level, about a mile square, part of which is now a meadow and was formerly a beaver pond, having a dam at each end. Here, though elevated more than 3,000 feet above the level of the sea, the traveler finds himself in a deep valley. On the east is a steep mountain out of which issues several springs of clear water, one of which is the source of Ellis river, (a southern branch of the Saco) another is the fountain of Peabody river ( a northern branch of the Ameriscoggin.) From this meadow toward the west there is an uninterrupted ascent in a ridge between two gullies, to the summit of Mount Washington. The eastern side of the mountain rises in an angle of 45 degrees, and requires 6 or 7 hours of hard labor to ascend it. Many of the precipices are so bald, as to oblige the traveler to sue his hands as well as his feet, and to hold by the trees, which diminish in size till they are mere shrubs and bushes; above these are low vines bearing red and blue berries. The uppermost vegetation is a species of winter grass, mixed with the moss of rocks. Having surmounted the upper and steepest precipice, there is a large area called the plain. It is a dry heath, composed of rocks covered with moss and bearing the appearance of a pasture in the beginning of winter. In some openings between the rocks, there are springs of water, in others dry gravel. Here the grouse or heath birds resort and are generally out of danger. The Sugar loaf which stands on this plain is a pyramidal heap of grey rocks, which in some places are formed like winding steps. This pinnacle has been ascended in an hour and a half. The traveler having gained the summit, is recompensed for his toil, if the sky be serene with a most noble and extensive prospect. On the S.E. side, there is a view of the Atlantic ocean, the nearest part of which is 65 miles distant on a direct line. On the W. and N. the prospect is bounded by the high lands, which separates the waters of the Ameriscoggin and Connecticut rivers from those of Lake Cahmplain and the St. Lawrence. On the S. it extends to the southernmost mountains of New Hampshire, comprehending a view of Lake Winnipiseogee. On every side of these mountains, are long winding gullies, beginning at the precipices below the plain, and deepening in the decent. In the winter the snow lodges in these gullies and being driven by the N.W. and N.E. winds from the top, is deepest in those on the southerly side. It is observed to lie longer in the spring on the S. than on the N.W. side. During nine or ten months these mountains exhibit more or less of that bright appearance, which gives them the appellation of White. In the spring, when the snow is partly dissolved they have a pale blue complexion, approaching a sky color, while at the distance of eight miles, they have the proper color of rocks. These changes are observed only by people, who live in constant view of them, and from these facts and observations, it may be concluded, that the whiteness of them is wholly caused by the snow. In the western pass of these mountains is a remarkable pass called the notch, the narrowest part of which is but 22 feet wide, between two perpendicular rocks. From the height above, a brook descends and meanders through a meadow, which was formerly a beaver pond. It is surrounded by rocks, which on one side are perpendicular and on the other rise in an angle of 45 degrees, forming a strikingly picturesque scene. It is about 40 rods through this gap then the land resumes its level appearance. This defile was known to the Indians, who formerly led their captives through it to Canada, but it was forgotten or neglected till the year 1771 when two hunters passed through it. It is now part of a road to Coos and Canada. This gap lies from Portsmouth N. 20° W. 90 miles on a direct line, and from Concord 4° E. 70 miles. These mountains are in latitude 44° 15’N.; and the line of perpetual congelation in that latitude, as deduced from observations made in Europe, is 7,872 feet above the level of the sea. From the greater coldness of American latitudes, this point in them must fall short of the above estimate. The altitude therefore of the White mountains cannot be supposed more than 7,800 feet above the level of the sea. These mountains are surrounded by settled towns, except about 8 miles on the east side between Adams and Shelburne. Mount Washington is 82 miles on a direct line from Portsmouth N. 17° W. and from Portland N. 55° W. and from Boston 120 miles N. 3° W. The following additional particulars are extracted from an account published in the Medical Journal, by a party of gentlemen from Boston, who visited these mountains in July, 1816, for the purpose of scientific observation. In the united States, exclusive, or possibly inclusive, of Louisiana, the highest point or ridge of land is undoubtedly that of the White mountains in New Hampshire. From the earliest settlement of the country these mountains have attracted the notice of the inhabitants, and of mariners along the coast, by the distance at which they are visible, and the whiteness of their appearance during three quarters of the year. They were for a long time the subject of fabulous representations; the Indians had a superstitious dread of them and travelers who occasionally ascended their summits, returned with exaggerated reports of the difficulty and distance, as well as of the strange productions found on the more elevated parts of their surface. The earliest account of an ascent of the white mountains is given in Gov. Winthrop’s Journal, and appears to have taken place in the year 1642. This account is somewhat curious, if not otherwise, at least for its antiquity. One Darby Field, an Irishman, living about Piscat, being accompanied with two Indians, went to the top of the White Hill. He made his journey in eighteen days. His relation at his return was, that it was about 160 miles from Saco, that after 40 miles travel, he did for the most part ascend; and within 12 miles of the top, was neither tree nor grass, but low savins, which they went upon the top of sometimes, but a continual ascent upon rocks, on a ridge between two vallies filled with snow, out of which came two branches of the Saco river, which met at the foot of the hill where was an Indian town of some 200 people. some of them accompanied him within 8 miles of the top, but durst go no further, telling him that no Indian ever dared to go higher, and that he would die if he went. So they staid there till his return, and his two Indians took courage by his example and went with him. They went divers times through the thick clouds for a good space, and within 4 miles of the top, they had no clouds but very cold. By the way among the rocks, there were two ponds, one a blackish water, and the other reddish. The top of all was plain, about 60 feet square. On the north side was such a precipice as they could scarcely discern the bottom. They had neither cloud nor wind on the top, and moderate heat. All the country about him seemed a level, except here and there a hill rising above the rest, and far beneath them. He saw to the north, a great water which he judged to be 100 miles broad, but could see no land beyond it. The sea by Saco seemed as if it had been within 20 miles. He saw also a sea to the eastward which he judged to be the gulph of Canada; he saw some great waters in parts to the westward, which he judged to be the great lake Canada river comes out of. He found there much Muscovy glass, they could rive out pieces 40 feet long, and 7 or 8 broad. When he came back to the Indians, he found them drying themselves by the fire, for they had a great tempest of wind and rain. About a month after, he went again with five or six of his company, then they had some wind on the top, and some clouds above them, which hid the sun. They brought some stones which they supposed had been diamonds, but they were most Chrystal. Winthrop’s Journal, P 247. The relation of Darby field, may be considered as in the main correct, after making reasonable deductions for the distance, the length of the Muscovy glass, and the quantity of water in view, which it may be suspected has not been seen by any visitor since his time. Within the last 40 years the White mountains have been repeatedly ascended by different exploring parties, and several accounts of their productions and phenomena have been published. The object of this paper is to detail such observations as were made by a party from Boston, who visited them in the beginning of July, 1816. These mountains are situated in lat. about 44° 15’ N. and long. 71° 20’ W. from Greenwich. They are distant about 150 miles from Boston. Their Indian name according to Dr. Belknap, was Agiocochook. Our approach to them was made from the northwest, commencing at the town of Lancaster, a village situated on the Connecticut river, 25 miles from their base. From this town a road has been cut, passing through a gap of the mountains to Portland, and constituting the principal outlet of the Coos country. This road takes the course of the Israel’s river, a branch of the Connecticut, passing between the pliny mountains on the left and the Pondcherry mountain on the right. The village of Lancaster is situated in a valley surrounded in several directions by very elevated ridges of land a number of the summits in sight of this place could not be estimated at less than 3,000 feet in height, judging from the experience we had acquired of several hills of known altitude on the road, and the accounts given by the inhabitants of the time necessary for their ascent and descent. The road from Lancaster passes through Jefferson, (formerly Dartmouth) Bretton Woods, and Nash and Sawyer’s locations, to the notch of the mountains. This road in its course runs over the foot of the Pondcherry mountain. It lies for most of the way through thick woods but rarely enlivened with the appearance of cultivation. At Playstead’s (Plaisted’s) house, 13 miles from their base we had a fair view of the White Hills. They presented the appearance of a continued waving range of summits, of which it was difficult to select the highest. At Rosebrook’s, 4 1/2 miles from the notch, the view of them was very distinct and satisfactory. We could now clearly discern the character of the summits, five or six of which were entirely bald and presented the appearance of a grey and ragged mass of stones towering above the woods, with which the sides and base were clothed. In several places we observed a broad continued stripe descending the mountain and having the appearance of a regular road cut through the trees and rocks from near the base to the summit of the mountain. On examining these with a telescope they were found to be channels of streams, and in several, the water could be seen dashing down the rocks. Between Rosebrooks and the notch is a plain, or rather a swamp, the waters of which pass off in dirrerent directions, partly to the Amonoosuck, a branch of the Connecticut, and partly by an opposite course to the Saco. After crossing several brooks running towards the former, we came to another stream, the water of which was so sluggish that it required some time to become satisfied that it was actually flowing in the opposite direction. This stream has its origin in a pond of one or two acres, situated near the road, and having no other inlet or outlet. This pond appears to be the principal source of the Saco river. The waters of this stream being collected from several sources proceed directly toward the side of the mountain. At the point where to all appearance they must be intercepted in their course, there occurs one of the most extraordinary features of the place, well known by the name of the notch. The whole mountain, which otherwise forms a continued range, is here cloven down quite to its base, affording a free opening to the winters of the Saco, which pass off with a gradual descent toward the sea. This gap is so narrow that space has with difficulty been obtained for the road, which follows the course of the Saco through the notch eastward. In one place the river disappears, being lost in the caves and crevices of the rocks, and under the shelves of the adjoining precipice, at length reappearing at the distance of some rods below. The notch gradually widens into a long narrow valley, in the lower part of which is situated the town of Bartlett. There is no part of the mountain more calculated to excite interest and wonder than the scenery of this natural gap. The crags and precipices on both sides rise at an angle of great steepness, forming a support or basement for the lofty and irregular ridges above. One of the most picturesque objects in our view was a cliff presenting a perpendicular face of great height and crowned at its inaccessible summit with a profusion of flowering shrubs.* For many miles below the commencement of the notch the eye meets on both sides a succession of steep and precipitous mountains, rising to the height of some thousands of feet, and utterly inaccessible from the valley below. The sides of these mountains consist in some parts of bald rock, streaked or variegated by the trickling of water, in others they are covered with trees and shrubs. The occasional torrents formed by the freshets in the spring have in many places swept away the stones and trees from their course, for a great distance, and left the vestiges of their way in a wide path or gully over naked rocks. In some instances the fire had run over the sides of the mountain, destroying the vegetation and leaving the dead trunks of the trees standing like stubble in a field, and presenting a singular appearance of desolation for some miles in extent. Several brooks, the tributaries of the Saco, fall down the abrupt declivitys, forming a succession of beautiful cascades in sight of the road. We were told that the wind sweeps through the notch at times with great violence. The lightning is said to strike frequently in the mountains from the clouds about their sides, and the sound of the thunder in this place is represented as unusually loud and severe. The report of a musket discharged in the notch, was followed by a long echo, reverberated form some time from both sides of the mountain. The white hills have been ascended by various routes, from their different sides. The course which is usually considered as attended with the least difficulties, is that which commences at the plain of Pigwacket, at present the town of Conway, and follows the course of Ellis river, a northern branch of the Saco, having its origin high in the mountain. The place of leaving the road to follow the track of this stream is in the town of Adams about 20 miles from the summit of the highest part of the mountain. Of this distance s even or eight miles may be rode over on horseback, the rest must be performed on foot. After leaving the borders of cultivation, our course lay through thick woods, on a level or with a gentle ascent, not much encumbered with an under growth of bushes, for six miles. The walking was tolerably good, except the circumstance of being obliged once or twice to ford the streams. Our encampment for the night, was made at the mouth of New river, a principal branch of the Ellis. This river takes its name from the recency of its orgin, which happened in October, 1775. At this time, during a great flood, that took place in consequence of heavy rains, a large body of waters, which had formerly descended by other channels, found their way over the eastern brink of the mountains, and fell down toward the Ellis, carrying the rocks and trees before them in their course, and inundating the adjacent country. By this freshet the banks of the Saco were overflowed, cattle were drowned, and fields or corn were swept away and destroyed. Since that period, the New river has remained a constant stream, and at the place where it descends the last precipice, forms a splendid cascade of 100 feet in height. From this encampment, which was seven miles from the top of the mountain, we proceeded the next day, (July 2,) two or three miles by the side of Ellis river, on a gradual ascent, occasionally encumbered by the trunks of fallen trees. We now left the Ellis, for one of its principal branches, called Cutler’s river, leading directly towards the principal summit. After climbing by the side of this stream for a considerable distance, the trees of the forest around us began to diminish in height, and we found ourselves at the second zone or region of the mountain. This region is entirely covered with a thick low growth of evergreens, principally the black spruce, and silver fir, which rise to about the height of a man’s head, and put out numberous, strong, horizontal branches, which are closely interwoven with each other, and surround the mountain with a formidable hedge a quarter of a mile in thickness. This zone of evergreens, has always constituted one of the most serious difficulties in the ascent of the White Hills. The passage through them is now much facilitated by a path cut by the direction of Col. Gibbs, who ascended the mountain some years since. On emerging from this thicket, the barometer stood at 25, 93, giving our elevation above the sea at 4,443 feet. We were now above all woods, and at the foot of what is called the bald part of the mountain. It rose before us with a steepness surpassing that of any ground we had passed, and presented to view a huge, dreary irregular pile of dark naked rocks. We crossed a plain or gentle slope, of a quarter of a mile, and began to climb upon the side. There was here a continued and laborious ascent of half a mile, which must be performed by cautiously stepping from one rock to another, as they present themselves like irregular stairs, winding on the broken surface of the mountain. In the interstices of these rocks were occasional patches of dwarfish fir and spruce, and beautiful tufts of small alpine shrubs, then in full flower. Having surmounted this height we found ourselves on a second plain. This like the first, was covered with withered grass, and a few tufts of flowers. Its continuity is interrupted by several declivitys, one of which we descended to our left, to reach a brook that crosses it here, from the rocks above. There remained now to be ascended only the principal peak, the one designated in Winthrop’s Journal, by the name of the Sugar-loaf, and in Belknap’s New Hampshire, by the name of Mount Washington. This we accomplished in half an hour, by climbing the ridge to the north of it, and walking on this ridge to the summit. If the traveler could be transported at once to the top of this mountain, from the country below, he would no doubt be astonished and delighted at the magnitude of his elevation, at the extent and variety of the surrounding scenery, and above all, by the huge and desolate pile of rocks, extending to a great distance in every direction beneath him, and appearing to insulate him from the rest of the world. But the length and fatigue of the approach, the time occupied in the ascent, the gradual manner in which the prospect has been unfolding itself, are circumstances which leave less novelty to be enjoyed at the summit, than at first view of the subject, would be expected. The day of our visit was uncommonly fine, yet the atmosphere was hazy, and our view of remote objects, was very indistinct. The Moosehillock, one of the highest mountains of New Hampshire, situated in Coventry, near the Connecticut, was visible on the south. The Kearsarge, Double headed mountains, and several others were in full view at the east. The country around in almost every direction, is uneven and mountainous. Its appearance is described by Josselyn, in his Rarities of New England, published in 1672, who says that the country beyond the mountains to the northward, is daunting terrible, being full of rocky hills, as thick as mole hills in a meadow; and clothed with infinite thick woods.** Our anticipations were not realized, in regard to several phenomena, we had been taught to expect at the summit. The state of the air was mild and temperate, so that the over coats which we carried up in expectation of extreme cold, were left at the foot of the last ascent. The thermometer stood at 57, Fahr. on the summit at 12 o’clock, and on the same day at Conway, 25 miles distant, on the plain below, it was at 80. The snow lay in patches of an acre in extent upon the sides, but appeared to be rapidly dissolving. We were not conscious of any material alteration in the density of the atmosphere, as neither sound nor respiration were perceptibly impeded. Instead of an absence from these barren regions of animal and vegetable life; we found a multitude of insects, buzzing around the highest rocks; every stone was covered with lichens, and some plats were in flower in the crevices, within a few feet of the summit. The ascent from our encampment at the mouth of New river, including stops, had employed us six hours and a half. The descent from the summit to the same place, occupied about five hours. We left on the mountain our names and the date, inclosed in a bottle, and cemented to the highest rock.*** Height of the white mountains. The great distance at which these mountains are visible, and the apparent length of their ascent, have led to estimates of their height considerable exceeding the probable truth. The Rev. Dr. Cutler, who twice visited them, and took barometrical observations computes the height in round numbers, at 10,000 feet above the level of the sea. Dr. Belknap, in his History of New Hampshire, is persuaded, that this computation is too moderate, and that subsequent calculations will make the height even greater. Mr. Bowditch has published in the transactions of the American Academy, a logarithmic calculation founded on the barometer, as observed by Dr. Cutler and Professor Peck in 1804, which gives them an elevation of 7,055. Capt. Partridge, an engineer in the United States’ service, visited the mountain some years since, and took barometerical observations on several of the principal peaks. His observations on several of the principal peaks. His observations now in possession of Professor Farrar at the University, give to the highest summit an elevation of only 6,103 feet. A mountain barometer, of Englefield’s construction, carried by Mr. Gray of our party, stood on the summit at noon at 24,23; the accompanying thermometer being at 57. At the same day at Cambridge, the barometer stood at 29,95, and the thermometer at 76. This difference of the barometer, after making the necessary corrections for temperature, and variation in the surface of the cistern, would give, according to Sir H.C. Englefield’s formula, a difference of 6,230 feet in the altitude of the two places. A logarithmic calculation was made, from the same data, by Professor Farrar, which resulted in a difference of 6,194 feet. This number being added to 31 feet, the height of Cambridge above the height of Cambridge above the sea, will give 6,225 feet, which may be assumed as the probable height of the White Hills, above the waters of the ocean. In favor of the correctness of the observations on which this computation is founded, it may be observed, that the barometer employed was of the most approved and modern construction, being guarded against accidents with an express view to its use in expeditions of this sort; that it went and returned without injury; and at the end of the journey agreed with other instruments at the University, precisely as it had done before its removal. In confirmation of the present estimate, it may also be observed, that a geometrical admeasurement, taken by Dr. Shattuck, and others from the plain in front of Rosebrook’s above the sea, will give a total of 6,268 feet, differing only 43 feet from our estimate. W. Maclure, Esq. author of the geological map of the United States, informs me, that from two geometrical admeasurements made some years since on the eastern and western side of the mountain, he arrived at results nearly similar. *Rhodora Canadensis, in full flower June 20th. **Messrs. J.W. and F. Boott, who have visited the mountains since, and found the atmosphere very clear on the summit at half past 7 A.M. have favored me with the following bearings of objects in sight: The sea, supposed near Portland S.E. by E. -- Lake Winnispiseogee S.S.W. -- A long hill having an eminence at each extremity, said by the guide to be the highest in Vermont, W. by S. a little S. -- Sebago lake S.E. 1/2 E. Macmillan’s Inn. Conway, S. by E. 1/2 E. -- The second highest summit of the White hills N.N.E. by E. This summit is separated from the one called Mount Washington, by a gulph opening eastwardly. It is very lofty, falling but little below a horizontal line obtained by a level on the former place. ***Parce,viator, cui fulmina parcent,-- Hoe fragile monumentum Lemuel Shaw, Nathaniel Tucker, Jacob Bigelow, Franciscus C. Gray, Franciscus Boott, Bostonienses; Die Julii 2do. A.D. 1816, Monte Agiocochook superato, hic reliquerant.