Monroe County NyArchives History - Books .....Background Of The Area And Its People 1957 ************************************************ Copyright. All rights reserved. http://www.usgwarchives.org/copyright.htm http://www.usgwarchives.org/ny/nyfiles.htm ************************************************ File contributed for use in USGenWeb Archives by: Joy Fisher sdgenweb@yahoo.com January 23, 2007, 4:45 pm Book Title: Irondequoit Story BACKGROUND OF THE AREA AND ITS PEOPLE Early Inhabitants "Realm of the Senecas! No more In shadow lies the Pleasant Vale; Gone are the Chiefs who ruled of yore, Like chaff before the rushing gale. Their rivers run with narrowed bounds, Cleared are their broad old hunting grounds, And on their ancient battle fields The greensward to the plowman yields; Like mocking echoes of the hill Their fame resounded and grew still, And on green ridge and level plain Their hearths will never smoke again." Yonnondio by William H. C. Hosmer Not many of us think of Irondequoit as old Indian territory, but we do know that Irondequoit is an Indian name. We spell it I~r~o~n~d~e~q-u~o~i-t, but one historian tells us that he has discovered more than fifty different spellings for it. Here are some of them: Tiorondequat The-run-de-quot Iron-de-gatt Tehe-oron-tok "Qua-or quoi" is from the Huron "Kwa" meaning "Toward the Sunrise." Several meanings have been given to the word, such as: "Where the Lake turns aside." "The Bay." "Where the waters meet and die." One of these names has been adopted by Irondequoit High School for their Senior Annual. It is Neo-da-on-da-quat. Someone has warned, "In trying to pronounce these different Indian spellings, watch out you don't put a permanent wave in your tongue." Probably the first white men to visit this region were the French. They found the country possessed by Seneca Indians, the most powerful and warlike tribe of the Iroquois, who were known as the "Keepers of the Western Door." They were not thought to have established any villages in Irondequoit, but the many trails which crossed this locality, together with Irondequoit Bay and the upper Genesee River, were their main highways of travel. The "Land of the Senecas" extended from Seneca Lake on the east to Niagara River on the west and from Lake Ontario on the north to Tioga Point, Susquehanna River, on the south. It is now believed that the Iroquois Indians were living in New York State 150 years before Columbus discovered America. These tribes-the Mohawks, Onondagas, Cayugas, Oneidas and Senecas and later the Tuscaroras-were united into a Confederacy or loose union, by the time the Europeans arrived on these shores. Hiawatha is said to have been one of the great Iroquois leaders and legend has it that he was the leader most responsible for the Confederacy. His advice was, "Let us have one voice, one pipe and one war club." By this he meant that the tribes should cease to fight one another from time to time and live in peace. Not bad advice for the world today! Archeologists tell us that there were people in this locality as long ago as the Archaic Period (3500 B. C.) To prove this, Mr. William Klem of 203 Laverne Road has given to the historian his collection of arrow points, about fifty of which archeologist Alfred K. Guthe of the Rochester Museum of Arts and Sciences has identified as belonging to this period. Mr. Klem found these points on his farm on St. Paul Boulevard. It is thought that these early people were hunters and fishermen, who came in small wandering groups and did not establish homes as the later Indians did. Recent relics (Oct. 7, 1956) found near Honeoye Lake tell of this Vine Valley Culture. These names all refer to Irondequoit Bay, of course, from which the Town derived its name. Irondequoit Bay was found on all the New World maps as early as 1600. Bay Once Part of Ancient River If they had been born thousands of years ago, to-day's promotors of the plan for a navigable channel between Lake Ontario and Irondequoit Bay would have found their work unnecessary. It is a story that is well known to geologists, but not to thousands of people who have spent their lives in and around Rochester. Many thousands of years ago the river, flowing north through a valley of its own making, turned eastward in what now is the Town of Rush. After a few miles in the easterly direction, the river resumed a northward course and flowed through what is now East Rochester, Ellison Park and Irondequoit Bay. But then came the glacial period-the Ice Age. As William D. Merrill, a former University of Rochester Professor of Biology once explained it: "There came out of the north a huge ugly icesheet, advancing, retreating, advancing, retreating, several times. It dumped so much rubbish into this east-and-west stretch of the old river near Rush, that the river had to cut a new channel down to the lake." One result was the formation of the "new" Genesee River gorge with its falls in what now is Rochester. Another was the transformation of parts of the old river valley into what now are Irondequoit Bay and the hills of Ellison Park. The French and English in America THE FRENCH The earliest French explorer known to have visited this locality was LaSalle. In 1669, he sailed up Irondequoit Bay as far as what we now know as Ellison Park. Looking for a route to the interior of the continent, he sought to have the Senecas guide him and his men by way of their Indian trails. LaSalle brought Franciscan and Jesuit missionaries with him and thus thought to pave the way for more friendly relations with the Indians. More than thirty years before LaSalle came, or about 1635, other missionaries who had arrived with Champlain and Cartier on the continent had heard of this region and wrote concerning the country and its inhabitants. These are the earliest written accounts of this section and may be found in books concerning Jesuit relations preserved in the archives of Canada. On the grounds of Mercy High School in Rochester may be found a plaque bearing this inscription: In Commemoration of The first building for Christian worship in the Rochester and Irondequoit Valley Area, "a small cabin of bark of trees to perform divine service therein." Erected near this spot in June, 1679 by the Franciscan Recollect Missionaries Reverend Louis Hennepin Reverend Gabriel de la Ribourde Revered Zenobe Membre And in Memory of other early missionaries and explorers who visited the region of Irondequoit Bay: Reverend Rene Galinee, Sulpitian, 1669 Reverend Dollier de Casson, Sulpitian, 1669 (Asociates of Sieur de LaSalle) Reverend Julien Gamier, Jesuit. 1684, and Reverend Pierre Charlevoix, S. J. Historian, 1721 who grafically described the locality of Irondequoit Bay with "its pretty river winding between two beautiful meadows." This tablet was erected on October 13, 1943, through the generosity of Herman G. Hetzler; research by A. M. Stewart, Rochester, N. Y. The Senecas were friendly to the French and invited them to their feasts. It is said that these early explorers were the first to eat "hot dog" in western New York. They were actually fed three-pound chunks of dog meat, together with other foods such as squash and beans. The Indians did not, however, furnish them guides or point out their secret trails and LaSalle was obliged to return to the lake and seek other ways of entering the continent. Louis XIV, then King of France, was dissatisfied with the way things were going, so he appointed a new Governor General of Canada with instruction to invade the Seneca country and take the land for France. Marquis Denonville was the newly appointed Governor General, and. following instructions, he set out from Canada in 1687 with 1500 French soldiers and 500 Huron Indians, who were deadly enemies of the Iroquois. At the same time he arranged with Tonti, leader of the neutral Indians living in the region of Niagara, to meet him with 500 more at the entrance to Irondequoit Bay. The timing was perfect and Seneca scouts, always on the lookout, reported that 200 bateaux were arriving from the east and the west and were landing at the north-east corner of the Bay. It was a motley army, speaking a variety of tongues-Denonville's regulars in their green uniforms, the colonists in their buckskins and homespun, and the savages naked, their bodies bedaubed with brilliant paint. Camp was made at the north end of Irondequoit Bay near what is now Oklahoma Beach. We are very certain of this location because when Mr. George Harris was excavating for the Rome, Watertown and Ogdensburg Railroad, about 1874, he found such relics as rusty gun barrels, iron and stone axes, arrow points and two human skeletons. Over the years there has been considerable controversy concerning the route followed by the army. We can only be guided by what seems the most logical route between given points, remembering that is was the characteristic of the trails to follow the higher points and avoid the swamps. Mr. Orsamus H. Marshall, who is the greatest authority on this campaign, and later George H. Harris, a "devoted student of nature, of our aborigines, our rocks, and our early settlements," both claim that the army followed the eastern side of the Bay. Denonville left 400 men in charge of the camp and set out with the main body of troops. They marched along Indian trails on the east side of the Bay and camped the second night at what is now Float Bridge. From there they proceeded on marked trails to Victor, the Seneca stronghold on Boughton Hill, where a fierce battle was fought. Many lives were lost on both sides, but the French won and the Indian villages were destroyed with all their crops. The triumphant French then went on to Tokiakton (Rochester Junction) destroying crops and burning villages as they went. Finally they returned with their many wounded, to their camp on the Bay, and later left for Canada. Denonville planned the great strategy in 1687 to gain the empire of furs, and a short water route to western trading parts, but all he gained for the French was the everlasting hatred of the Indians. The Denonville expedition was historically important in that it steered the Iroquois toward the English camp, and thereby helped decide the destiny of the English-speaking of America. Thirty years later, in 1717, the French returned to Irondequoit Bay and established a trading post where Sea Breeze is now located. It was named Fort des Sables. In 1937, at the 250th anniversary of the Denonville expedition, a marker was placed on the site of the fort. It reads as follows: THIS IS THE SITE OF INDIAN LANDING THE MOST IMPORTANT PLACE IN THE EARLY HISTORY OF THE GENESEE COUNTRY ALL OF WHOSE TRAILS LED TO IRONDEQUOIT BAY GATEWAY OF THE IROQUOIS CONFEDERACY HERE WERE SCENES OF ADVENTURE AND ROMANCE POR A PERIOD OF MORE THAN THREE HUNDRED YEARS INVOLVING INDIAN WARS: THE STRUGGLE FOR EMPIRE BETWEEN THE FRENCH AND ENGLISH: AND THE REVOLUTIONARY AND PIONEER PERIODS RELIGION COMMERCE AND WAR MADE THIS TERRITORY A FAMOUS BATTLEGROUND BRINGING HERE MANY NOTED PRIESTS TRADERS AND SOLDIERS ACROSS THE CREEK IS THE SITE OF SCHUYLER'S FORT AND THE LOST CITY OF TRYON ERECTED BY THE STATE OF NEW YORK AND THE MONROE COUNTY PARK COMMISSION 1928 "Here Denonville's French army landed to invade the Seneca Country July 12, 1687." (The date should be July 10.) Mr. Alphonse A. Kolb designed the medal which commemorated this anniversary and has presented two of them to the historian for the Town files. THE ENGLISH In 1721, the Colonial Assembly of New York passed an Act raising 500 pounds to establish an English trading post at the upper end of Irondequoit Bay near what is now known as Atlantic Avenue. The crude fort overlooked Indian Landing and was called Fort Schuyler. This was the point where many trails met and it became a great fur trading center known as "The Gateway to the South." Capt. Peter Schuyler Jr. was commissioned with nine men to defend this lonely outpost but they remained only one year as it was thought too expensive to maintain the fort for a longer time. Furs of the Genesee Valley had been depleted and it was not until white men began to arrive as permanent settlers, 70 years later, that any commercial activity began to develop. A replica of the old fort, now used by the Scouts, stands on its original site in Ellison Park. During the French and Indian War of 1759, Irondequoit Bay saw the movements of armies under Prideaux and Johnson against the Niagara frontier; and, later, the efforts of Johnson to hold Indian councils on the Niagara and elsewhere. General Bradstreet with Sir William Johnson visited Indian Landing in 1764. During the Revolution, the notorious Colonel Butler for a time had his headquarters at Irondequoit Landing. The Sullivan Expedition of 1779, while deeply affecting the Senecas living in this area, did not actually reach so far north, though its western-most point was at Cuylerville, then known as Genesee Castle, or Little Beard's Town. During the War of 1812, Indian Landing was a very busy place and many expeditions left here with supplies for the American Army. Probably every prominent man in the New France period came to this Bay area of Irondequoit. The Landing there was the great trading place of the Senecas as it was the entrance into their country, and for this reason its growth was slow until after the War of 1812 when the fear of the Indians gradually subsided. At one time during the war, the Landing was deserted by the settlers who feared an attack The Treasury Department maintained a customs office on Irondequoit Bay as late as 1868 and employed two inspectors named Alfred M. Hobby and H. J. Hunger ford at a pay of two dollars and fifty cents per day for each inspector. These records are in the Customs Office in Rochester. First Settlements INDIAN LANDING The early pioneers who came to this section knew the Indian Landing as Gerundegut, Irondequot or Irondequat Landing. It was the head of Irondequoit Bay and all the bay schooners loaded or unloaded freight here. The first flour received in the city of Montreal, and the first decked boat to descend the St. Lawrence River, came from this Landing. From it ran Indian trails in every direction. During the period of New France, both French and English war vessels were frequently at the Landing, and without doubt, there were many engagements in this vicinity of which there is no record. TRYON CITY (LOST CITY) LaSalle has been called the first promoter of this section, but Salmon Tryon became the first real estate speculator. In 1797 he purchased from John Lusk 420 acres of land for two hundred pounds. He saw this land as a great shipbuilding center. Irondequoit Bay, he predicted, would be covered with freighters, carrying on tremendous trade with Canada. At that time, 40-ton schooners had no difficulty in coming up the bay to what became known as Tryon City. There were no sandbars and Irondequoit Creek was broad and deep. In 1799, Salmon Tryon sold this site to John Tryon for twice as much as he paid for it. Some say they were brothers, others say that they were not related in any way. John persuaded many early settlers to invest their money in the enterprise, and to tell the climax of the story first, they lost all their money. In the beginning, the city grew very rapidly. John Tryon built a store and a warehouse, the first west of Canandaigua. Liquor and wine were very freely used in those days and the store did a big business in those items. Furs, the products of the farm, potash, salt, flour, and a general line of the necessities of the age were handled by the store and sold to their customers. A great deal of business was transacted by barter with the Indians. Irondequoit Creek was well stocked with salmon trout, and there was an abundance of wild game in the country. Lumber was an important industry and the building of ships was carried on extensively. Potash and other forest products supplied a growing volume of exports. The city was governed by its own laws, and what was known as a Lynch Court was established. This court, always ready and on duty day and night in the City of Tryon, was used largely because of the Tories who lived with the Indians after the war and were prone to many forms of crime. A mill costing $15,000 was built, and besides being a profitable industry, it helped clear the land of some of the trees which covered the country and were considered a nuisance. They prevented communication by land, and to bring the first goods from Canandaigua it had been necessary to cut a path through the forest. Then, just when it seemed that Tryon City was starting toward bigger business, the dream faded and nearby Rochesterville did the impossible: it eclipsed Tryon City and the old Indian Landing became practically deserted. Trade with the Indians was no longer important and communication by water was no longer essential since roads had been built in this section. Now there is only a blue marker amid the brambles in this area to tell of the Lost City on the banks of Irondequoit Creek. The marker reads as follows: City of Tryon First White Settlement west of Canandaigua Founded 1797, Abandoned in 1818 John Lusk was the First Settler in 1789 CARTHAGE Carthage was the name given to a settlement on the east side of the Genesee River at the Lower Falls. Few of the people who ride down St. Paul St. today have any idea that Carthage was once the center of stately homes thriving stores, a post office, land offices, warehouses, flour mills, steamboat and stage hotels and believed by its founders to be the nucleus of a great city in the future. Caleb Lyon was the pioneer who was clearing the land as early as 1809, but just what was done in those times is not known. We do know, however, that the name "Thousand Acre Tract" was given to the section and the real settlement began when Caleb Lyon sold to a Land Company, composed of Elisha B. Strong, Heman Norton, and Elisha Beach, five hundred acres of the tract. Later they added another five hundred acres to their first purchase and laid out the village of Carthage. It is interesting to note that persons who afterward became greatly interested in Irondequoit made purchases here. Among them were the father of Hosea Rogers, Elon Huntington after whom Huntington Hills is named, and Alexander Hooker who gave to Irondequoit its first burial ground. Hosea Rogers' father came to Carthage in 1809. The merchants of Canandaigua, about 1804, had cut a road to the mouth of the Genesee River which was their shipping port to Canada and the west. There was then no road west of Brighton to the Genesee River, only an Indian trail from Mt. Hope to the river landing then called Carthage. Travelers from the east came over this Merchants' Road and those going to Carthage found their way up-river by way of an Indian trail. This trail was used as a tow path when there was not wind enough for the schooners to sail up the river. The boats were first towed by men; later the path was widened and animals were used. It was over this Merchants' Road and towpath that Mr. Rogers brought his family. He found Caleb Lyon at Carthage and from him bought land near where the Rochester School for the Deaf now stands. At this time there were some white settlers there, but these were mostly squatters who disappeared as the land was bought for permanent homes. Mr. Rogers built a log house on his property and it was there that Hosea Rogers was born. He remembered hearing his mother tell that when the British fleet appeared at the mouth of the river in the War of 1812, the men shouldered their muskets and started for the lake, and that she took him in her arms, and with the other children, followed an Indian trail to the neighbors living at the present corner of Norton and Carter Streets. In those days, there was no clearing between Carthage and the mouth of the river and Mr. Rogers told stories of the deer, bears, wolves and wild cats to be found in the woods; also of the famous fishing in the river, the sturgeon weighing as much as 150 pounds. In 1816, Hanford's Landing, on the west bank of the river, and nearly a mile farther north than Carthage, was the principal dock. It was called Fall Town but Carthage, being free from the dreaded fever prevalent in Fall Town, had become the popular landing. Much later, Carthage landing was known as Brewer's Dock. In the meantime, the enterprising company was completing plans for a bridge uniting the high banks of the river, thus connecting the two segments of the celebrated Ridge Road. This undertaking, stupendous for those days, awakened the greatest interest. The bridge was built of wood and had a single arch. It was completed in February 1819 and guaranteed for one year. It stood, the pride and glory of Carthage, for 15 months and fell, May 22, 1820. Soon after, another bridge was built to span the river above the main falls. This bridge was built upon piers. It was carried away by a freshet and still another built in its place which was destroyed by the big flood of 1835. The fourth was a suspension bridge, built by the City of Rochester and opened to the public in 1856. It was erected slightly north of the site of the Carthage bridge of 1819. This bridge was destroyed by a heavy fall of snow which overloaded it and, after only nine months, followed its predecessor to the bottom of the gorge. The fifth was the present Driving Park Avenue Bridge, completed in 1890. Veterans Memorial Bridge, the most recent span to be built across the Genesee, was opened on December 27, 1931. About 1820, the name of the village of Carthage was changed to Clyde and this was always its Post Office address. In 1830, however, when the Clyde Post Office was abandoned, the name was changed back to Carthage. The growth of this western village in these early days was really phenomenal. From 331 persons in 1815. It increased in numbers to about 2000 in 1821. This increase and the difficulty in numbers to about 2000 in 1821. This increase and the difficulty of reaching the two court towns of Canandaigua and Batavia brought public spirited men to ask the legislature for the formation of a new county to be called Monroe. Monroe County was thus established in 1821 and named in honor of James Monroe who was then serving his second term as President of the United States. With the established success of the Erie Canal in 1 825, manufacturing supremacy was reluctantly conceded to Rochester, but Carthage had by no means lost her enterprise. The Erie Canal increased rather than diminished her trade with Canada and two new mills were erected on the flats at Carthage. Something better than a corduroy road between Carthage landing and the Erie Canal became necessary. A horse-railroad three miles long, and costing $30,000 was built by a company in 1831. The cars were constructed like coaches, the driver's seat on top, where there was a platform with a double seat through the center. The magnificent view of the river made the trip on this road a favorite ride for visitors. Five steamboats touched ten times a week at Carthage landing. There were few mills in Canada in those days, and most of the Canadian wheat was brought here to be ground and sent back as flour. In 1839, the year Irondequoit was separated from Brighton, an eye witness saw seventeen vessels at one time lying at Carthage landing loaded with flour for Montreal. Much leather was also shipped from here and later large tanneries were built at Carthage landing. In 1834, when Rochester was incorporated, Carthage became part of the city and was sometimes referred to as North Rochester or Lower Town. Some Irondequoiters will remember the Carthage Memorial Fountain erected in 1907 at the corner of St. Paul and Norton Streets. A tower stood above the fountain for seven years. The lower part was removed much later. All of us know about the Bronze Memorial Tablet on a large boulder on St. Paul Street near Veterans' Memorial Bridge. It was dedicated June 17, 1932 and the inscription reads as shown in cut. CARTHAGE 1809-1834 STOUT ARMS SUBDUED THE WILDERNESS AND BUILT CARTHAGE HERE. AT THE RIVER'S BRINK HALTED THE OX-CARTS OF THE PIONEERS. CALEB LYON CAME FIRST, 1809: ELISHA B. STRONG AND OTHERS. 1816. THE VILLAGE PLOT COVERED A THOUSAND ACRES FROM THE RIDGE SOUTH TO PRESENT CLIFFORD AVENUE, A MILE WIDE ALONG THE RIVER. WITH STATELY HOMES, MILLS, WAREHOUSES, SHIPYARDS. CARTHAGE BECAME A CENTER OF COMMERCE WITH CANADA AND THE WEST. THE ANNUAL EXPORTS DOWN THE RIVER APPROACHED A MILLION DOLLARs THE GORGE WAS SPANNED BY THE FAMOUS CARTHAGE BRIDGE. THE HIGHEST WOODEN ARCH EVER BUILT. WHEN ROCHESTER WAS INCORPORATED, 1834 CARTHAGE WAS INCLUDED. IN HONOR OF THE INSPIRING ACHIEVEMENTS OF THE PEOPLE OF CARTHAGE THIS MEMORIAL IS DEDICATED. ERECTED BY THE STATE OF NEW YORK, THE ROCHESTER HISTORICAL SOCIETY AND IRONDEQUOIT CHAPTER D. A. R. 1932 Earliest Visitors We are told that the first white man to live temporarily in what we now know as Irondequoit was William Walker. He was known as Tory Walker because he had fought with Butler and Brant during the Revolutionary War and had taken part in the frequent merciless slaughters of white men, women and children in the frontier settlements. With the Senecas, Walker had fled before the Sullivan Army which raided this territory in 1799. Arch Merrill, in an article in the Democrat and Chronicle of Oct. 14, 1956, says: "Most writers on the Revolutionary War dismiss the Sullivan Expedition against the Indians as a mere foraging party or skip it entirely. George Washington didn't consider it trivial. He dispatched 5000 men, a third of his army, to drive out the Indians in a campaign that cost the impoverished colonies one million dollars." William Walker found this a place of residence congenial to his character for he was a ranger, hunter, fisherman and occasional trader. He was in no sense a typical pioneer nor a tiller of the soil. He settled near the mouth of the Genesee river in 1791 or 1792, but later, becoming involved in some difficulty, he fled to Canada and never returned to this country. The second visitor to Irondequoit soil was a man named Dunbar, a mulatto, who came from Massachusetts in 1795 and whose family comprised six persons. He too, was a hunter and fisherman though he did raise some fruit and otherwise fulfilled the duties of a pioneer. He is said to have been a giant in stature and strength. From the salt springs on his farm close to Irondequoit Creek, he boiled the salt down and sold it to his customers. He too, moved to Canada and died there. Emerson Babcock in his history "City of Tryon" tells us that in October of 1795 James Wadsworth called on him to pilot him through the woods to what is now Irondequoit. With a view to the purchase of a large section here, they spent four days exploring the land, but Mr. Wadsworth was so disgusted with what he saw that he said: "I would not take it as a gift for it is worth nothing." I wonder what he would say could he see Irondequoit today! The Charlotte Incident Arch Merrill tells the following story of an interesting historical incident during the War of 1812: A fleet of thirteen ships appeared off the southern coast of Lake Ontario near Charlotte on a day in May 1814. The Commander of the ships was Commodore Yeo. All the men who could be mustered to resist this attack were 33. It was a foggy night. These men couldn't march very well and they were not in uniform, but they could shoot straight and they were not afraid. When dawn came, they knew that the British were watching from their ships so they marched in and out of the trees on the shore. The woods were thick in those days and the British Commander, thinking there was a large force defending, instead of landing his men, sent out an officer to parley under a flag of truce. The terms were that the British would not attack if the settlers would surrender the stores. Captain Brown was in charge and his answer was "Blood knee deep, first." The British were so impressed with the Americans and the supposed size of their forces that they sailed away after firing a harmless shot or two. Julia Cole Wilson has in her possession one of the balls fired from the English cannons that day. It measures one and one half inches in diameter. Mr. Fred Rehbach had one that his children used as a plaything that measured six inches in diameter. Both of these balls were found on the Cole Farm near the Lake. Whence Irondequoit? PHELPS AND GORHAM PURCHASE The Phelps and Gorham Purchase lies in western New York within the lands once occupied by the Six Nations-a confederation composed of the Senecas, Cayugas, Onondagas, Oneidas, Mohawks and later the Tuscaroras-whose territory extended rather indefinitely westward from the Hudson. In total disregard of the Indian inhabitants, the Kings of England and France, based on the discoveries of their countrymen, granted what they never possessed, and created conflicting claims. As a result, the states of New York, Massachusetts and Connecticut all laid claim to parts of New York State. In 1785, Massachusetts gave up most of her claim and in 1880 Connecticut did likewise. By these cessions, the disputes between Connecticut and Massachusetts with New York became limited to the lands lying in western New York. This disputed territory amounted to 19,000 square miles and disagreements involving it were finally settled by a convention of Commissioners appointed by the parties and held at Hartford, Conn, on Dec. 16, 1786. As a result, Massachusetts was given about 6000 acres of western New York land, subject to the title by the Indians. Phelps and Gorham, two enterprising Americans from Massachusetts, both desirous of owning some lands now owned by Massachusetts, agreed to the sum proposed by the Massachusetts legislature for two and one half million acres and now had only the Indians to negotiate with for the title. These men finally secured a council with the Six Nations for the purpose of purchasing their pre-emption rights, and a deed was executed July 8, 1788. The territory acquired extended from Sodus Bay on the east to 12 miles beyond the Genesee River on the west and from Lake Ontario on the north to Tioga Point. Pennsylvania on the south. (See Plates I and II.) For these many acres of land, they agreed to pay the Indians $5,000 in cash and an annual amount of $500. The first payment was made in two installments, and the second amount was to be paid part in cash and part in cattle. In the surveying of the lands, Phelps and Gorham practiced deception and the Indians got the small end of the deal. It is doubtful whether they received any of the annual payments. In the Phelps and Gorham Purchase, the 12 miles beyond the Genesee River was known as the Mill Tract. At first the Indians refused to sell any lands west of the river, but Mr. Phelps was most urgent in impressing upon them the necessity of a lot on the west side of the river for a mill site, and stated that a tract about 12 miles by 24 miles would be sufficient. He impressed upon them, also, the benefit to them of having a place where their corn could be ground and their timber sawed. The Indians, it is said, were surprized by the size of the mill lot, another deception, but finally acceded to the request. Phelps and Gorham took immediate steps toward opening the land. Following a survey in July 1789, the tract was divided into lots called townships, each six miles square, and numbered from 1 to 14 beginning at the Pennsylvania line and extending to Lake Ontario. There were seven ranges of these lots. (See Plate II.) On the west side of the river, the Mill Tract was divided into a short range containing two townships, and two other ranges containing four townships each. Note that what is now that section of Monroe County embracing the seven townships-Irondequoit, Brighton, Pittsford, Henrietta, Perinton, Penfield, and Webster-in 1792 was all "District of Northfield." Trace down and see what has happened: "District of Northfield" was changed in 1796 to "Town of Northfield," then in 1808 it was changed to "Boyle." In 1812 Perinton was split off and in 1813 the name of "Boyle" was changed to Smallwood. On March 25, 1914 Smallwood was split in two and "Brighton" and "Pittsford" emerge. Finally on March 27, 1839 Brighton was divided and "Irondequoit" was formed. The only changes in Irondequoit since that time have been caused by the action of the City of Rochester in annexing various sections. Town Topography When Irondequoit was established in 1839, three quarters of its land was still in its primitive form. It was looked upon by many potential settlers as a rejected and despised remnant of the Phelps and Gorham Purchase. It was spoken of as the north end of the Town of Brighton, located in the Seventh Range, Township Fourteen, and known as a land overrun with wolves, bears, rattlesnakes, and hostile Indians. Swamp fever was known to be prevalent. DIVISION INTO FOUR SECTIONS Section 1- This strip, about 1 1/2 miles wide and 4 1/4 miles long, contained some 4000 acres of ground and was located south of Norton Street between St. Paul Street and the Bay. It was settled by thrifty farmers before Irondequoit was established and was considered to have some of the best land in Monroe County for growing wheat, potatoes, corn, hay and grain crops. Section 2- This section comprised all the land along what we now know as Norton Street north to the Ridge Road and from the Genesee River to Irondequoit Bay. It was about 1 mile wide and 4 1/2 miles long and contained approximately 2700 acres. Eighty percent of it was considered waste land. The eastern part extending from Portland Avenue to the Bay was an eroded valley, with springs and a marsh, through which flowed Hobbie Creek surrounded by steep hills. A swamp about one half mile wide and 2 miles long extended from Ridge Road to Norton Street through which flowed Emerson Creek. For about 1000 feet south of the Ridge Road there was an area known as a blow sand area, the driest place in Irondequoit in those early days and thus unfit for raising crops. However, the south part of section 2 and a part of section 1 comprised the Boulder Section of Irondequoit. This included a narrow strip of land with an average width of 2000 feet running all the way from the Genesee River to the Bay. Norton Street now occupies the middle of this strip. Many of the boulders from this section weighed from one to two and three tons. With crow bars the early settlers pried out the smaller of those boulders and rolled them onto skids to be hauled away by oxen and piled up along the zig-zag rail fences. Geologists tell us that these boulders are all foreigners, rolled here from northern Canada by the Glacier Ice Sheet under tons of ice and for hundreds of miles. As a result most of them are smooth, round or egg-shaped in form. As some one has put it, "They ranged all the way from the size of a bushel basket to an Eskimo Hut." The largest boulder ever known in this section. estimated to weigh 30 tons, lies buried on the Bonkie Farm on Pardee Road. It was about 10 feet long and about 8 feet in diameter. To bury this boulder below the plow, it was necessary to dig a trench 10 feet deep alongside of it. The work was nearly completed when the men were called away, and on their return found that the boulder had slid into the hole. Someone probably had a miraculous escape. A sample of the larger boulders may be seen today on the lawn of the Northside Hospital. These stones weigh 8 tons each. A beautiful boulder stood on the Hobbie or DeSmit Farm about one half mile west of Culver Road. This one was 8 feet by 6 feet, egg-shaped, and its polished surface showing "fools old," glistened in the sunlight. It stood like a sentinel in an open eld for many years, over which time and the elements had smoothed its surface like a billiard ball. In 1930, it was shattered with dynamite and the fragments hauled into a gully along Hobbies Creek. The removing of these boulders was a big problem but when accomplished, the land proved good land for both crops and cattle. Several of our townsmen who located in this region about 1840 became some of our well-to-do market gardeners and dairymen. Section 3- That strip of land between Ridge Road and Titus Avenue and from the river to the Bay, in all about 1 mile by 4 1/4 miles and comprising about 2700 acres, was most despised by early settlers, because from Culver Road to St. Paul Boulevard a swamp filled the center of the section. In size, this measured about a half mile by three miles and was fairly alive with ever-flowing springs that formed six creeks, all of which flowed into Lake Ontario. This marsh was a hunter's paradise. Wild ducks, quail, snipe, mud hens, wild pigeons, woodcock and muskrats were found in abundance. Hunters were equipped with hip-boots of rubber, and to avoid water holes and underground springs, they jumped from one stump to another on the remains of giant pine trees that once stood there. It is said that one farmer bet another that he could row a boat over the 3-mile long marsh, during a rainy spell. The bet was taken and the farmer performed the feat, but he had a hard time doing it and won only a barrel of cider for his efforts. This section, having since been redeemed by draining, has some of the most productive land in Monroe County, yes, even in New York State. Water was at first carried off by deep ditches to some main stream. Later, the swale and peat bogs were converted into high grade muck land for the growing of celery, onions, lettuce, carrots and other crops for which the section was once famous. Along the north side of Ridge Road, as along the south side for about 500 to 1000 feet, was found the same blow sand characteristic of Section 2. Along Titus Avenue were hills, creeks, gullies and springs with a stony part east of Culver Road about 1000 feet wide and 2 miles long. This area starts just east of Bouckhart Avenue, midway between the Ridge and Titus Avenue and extends east by north to the Bay. Field stone along this 2 mile strip were originally so thick that it was hard to find enough soil to cover a hill of potatoes or corn. The more the farmers picked up the stones the more there seemed to be and plowing brought more and more to the surface. These stones were used to build stone fences and cellar walls. One farmer found enough stones on his place to encircle his farm with a stone fence 5 feet high. Later he sold the stones from the fence for 50 cents per load, such load being the equivalent of about 1 cu. yd. or the maximum one team could haul at one time. When the Bucklin and Walzer Farms were subdivided and the building of homes began, in excavating for cellars, the men found that about one third of the amount excavated was stones. The people whose houses were being built at this time found many uses for the stones including walks, rock gardens, water pools, lot lines and often for ornamental purposes. One man, in 1900-1902, hired two men to work for eight months to pick up enough stones to fill a pond on his property. Many farmers were glad to give loads of stones to anyone who would haul them away. The farms in the western part of Irondequoit were not free from stone but here they were of the red sand stone variety. When St. Bernard Seminary was being built on Lake Avenue, the Simpson Farm supplied 220 two-horse wagon loads of these flat red stones for the price of one dollar per load. Mr. Louis Dubelbeiss reports that they quarried stone from the Ford Farm located midway between the Ridge and Titus Avenue for building their wine cellar on Ridge Road. This was in 1898. There are two houses still standing on Portland Avenue just south of Norton Street that were built of Irondequoit field stone. They were the Jackson and Ziegler homes, and at the time they were built, some 130 years ago, they were in Irondequoit. Section 4- This section was about 2 1/4 miles wide and 3 3/4 miles long. It included all the north part of Irondequoit from Titus Avenue to Lake Ontario and from the river to the Bay. This section covered about 5400 acres and was made up of steep hills, hogbacks surrounded by creeks, marsh land and deep gullys. While there was some level land along Cooper Road, St. Paul Blvd. and Culver Road, it was usually spoken of as poor farm land compared to some other sections. Before these farms were subdivided and the thousands of homes built, which now break the force of the wind sweeping off the lake, this bare flat land, plowed, dragged and fitted for growing rye, caused dust storms that darkened the sun and the dust was scattered all over the town. The wind was so strong that it uprooted or cut off tender plants and deposited dust hills along fences like snow banks. People who lived here about 1875-1880 will remember these sand storms. Dust got into their eyes, nose and ears and sifted through crevices into the houses. These storms occurred generally in March or April and sometimes lasted a week. To provide wind breaks against them, the gardeners set out hedges of various kinds across their farms. SAND PITS ALONG THE RIDGE Thousands of years ago, after the last glacial ice sheet had receded, there was left covering this part of the country a large lake known as Iroquois Lake. Dr. Herman Leroy Fairchild, in his story of Lake Iroquois, tells us that the great gravel ridges such as the Ridge Road here in Irondequoit, "are the constructional bars of the Lake Iroquois beach." Being composed of wave-born material, sand and gravel, the Iroquois bar beaches have been favorite sources for building material. Following is a list of the sand and gravel pits found along the Ridge in Irondequoit: Sutton Farm-South side of Ridge near Hudson. Started 1890, now filled in. Frank Heffer Pit-Mr. Heffer was a pioneer in the making of cement blocks. His factory was located at 1119 Ridge Road East. Otto Moetschler-East side of Portland near Ridge Road. David Lamming-North side of Ridge between Portland and Goodman. William Wehle-North side of Ridge between Portland and Goodman. Henry Metcalfe-South side of Ridge between Portland and Goodman, Now operated by Rappl and Hoenig. Elam Bros.-South of Ridge and east of Goodman. Raymond Fax-South side of Ridge and west of Vinton Road. Wright Farm-Northwest corner Ridge and Culver. Operated by Norris and Everett Walzer. Various Owners-Pit at southeast corner of Ridge and Culver Roads. About 1870 this pit was used by the town for graveling roads. It is now covered by the new Shopping Plaza. Newport Sand and Gravel Co.-Pit opposite present Ridge-Culver Plaza. Land is now owned by East Irondequoit Central School District. Walzer Farm Pit-North of the Ridge on Culver Road. The largest and most profitable pit. TRAILS, ROADS AND BRIDGES Before 1830, there were no real roads in Irondequoit. Indian trails were used by all who had any reason to move from one section of western New York to another. Indian trails which were important to Irondequoit were those which led from Canandaigua to the mouth of the Genesee River. Their general direction was through Bushnells Basin to Irondequoit Landing at the head of Irondequoit Bay (now Ellison Park) where Tryon City was located. From this point, the trail ran northwest, near the intersection of Culver, Merchants Road and Bay Street, continuing on north to Clifford and down the present Waring Road. It then cut across north of Norton Street and along the rear of Hooker Cemetery on Portland Avenue. From there, it ran northwest, crossing the Ridge Road just east of Stanton Lane, thence north to Titus Avenue and followed a general course along Cooper Road making many turns, crossing the gully near Pinegrove Avenue and on to Thomas Avenue to where Stutson Street Bridge is now located. It terminated at the mouth of the river where trading was carried on. About 1804, the merchants of Canandaigua widened the trail so that two-wheeled ox-carts could haul merchandise. These were crude carts with wooden wheels made by sawing off the ends of huge logs and boring a hole in the center for the hickory axle, which was kept greased with bear fat. For many years, this entire stretch of about 30 miles was known as Merchants Road, so named by the merchants of Canandaigua. It was by no means a straight trail, but had the many above-described turns due to the fact that the Indians preferred to go around obstacles rather than remove them. Today, Merchants Road from Winton Road to Culver Road, a distance of about a mile, is all that is still known by that name. There are still nine turns and bends in this mile stretch, in spite of the grading and improving that have brought it to its present condition. To the rear of the Hooker Cemetery, one can still see a very small segment of this old Indian trail or old Merchants Road, the only part left. Another trail ran from Sea Breeze along the west side of the Bay, then in a southwesterly direction to the Genesee River rapids above Court Street. This crossed the previously described trail just south of Hooker Cemetery. These two trails, cutting diagonally across Irondequoit, were the main arteries of travel from all four corners of the town and from one end to the other. About 1850, there was great activity in the laying out of roads in western New York. The main highways that divide Irondequoit into sections-such east-west arteries as Clifford Avenue, Norton Street, Ridge Road, Titus Avenue and the north-south streets named Culver Road, Portland Avenue, Hudson Avenue, Clinton Avenue, and St. Paul Blvd.-were all surveyed and laid out about 1830. Irondequoit was still a part of Brighton at that time. At first the roads were of dirt, sand or clay. Later, when mud and ruts made them nearly impassable, many of them were planked. This lasted for awhile, until many of the planks slipped and horses were lamed or even suffered broken legs. Then came the era of gravel roads. In the winter time when the snow was deep and there were great drifts in the roads, the farmers all worked on the roads to shovel them out. Often one had to drive through fields which were more passable than the road. The snow could not be removed by men as our snow-plows do today, and many a bank and pitch-hole slowed progress. There was much more snow then, than there is now and a sleighride party was one of the anticipated social events. Often the sleigh tipped over but that usually just added to the fun. Men who grumble and growl today because they have to shovel snow so that they can either walk or ride out of their own driveways have it easier than did the pioneers in Irondequoit. Fifty years ago it was necessary to work on the road as well as to pay taxes and to shovel snow. Any man who tried to evade that work found himself in the arms of a constable and facing a magistrate. Following is a warrant issued to an Overseer of Highways in 1887. "It shall be your duty as such Overseer, and you are required immediately, to call upon all person liable to perform highway labor in your district, and when called by you must do the assigned work and failing to appear at the time and place designated by you or to commute at $1 a day within twelve hours after the notice, shall be liable to a fine of $1.50 a day for each day's labor they may be required to perform. "Given under my hand, this 20th day of March, 1887. Daniel Ide" Since it was possible, at that time, to hire a substitute at $1 per day, this highway work did not cause any annoyance to those farmers. Road taxes were seldom paid in dollars then, but working on the roads took care of the taxes. One day's work of 10 hours by one man took care of $1 in taxes. A team of horses with a driver, working 10 hours counted as $4. The town roads were supervised by the Highway Commissioner, who, with the approval of the Town Board, had power to appoint Path-Masters. Each of these Path-Masters had from one to two miles of road assigned to him. They worked without pay, since it was considered an honor to be asked to be a Path-Master. Prior to 1894 not a soul lived north of Stutson Street, in Summerville or at Windsor Beach in the winter, and even the Life Saving Crew departed with the first snowfall and remained away until spring. Summerville Boulevard, known as St. Paul Street, ended in a swamp where Bengel's Inn now stands. Large farms and peach orchards occupied practically all the land from Ridge Road to the lake. Titus Avenue, sometimes referred to as Little Ridge, Cooper Road, known as Lower Hudson, Pinegrove Avenue, called Sherry Road, and Thomas Avenue, then named Smuggler's Road were the only thoroughfares leading off St. Paul in Irondequoit. A new age in road construction came in 1898, when a state law permitted the building of state roads. The first improved road under that law in Monroe County was in Irondequoit; this was Hudson Avenue. It was an innovation to have a paved road outside of a city, but when the automobile came on the scene, road construction vastly improved. This sort of road maintenance in Irondequoit was kept up until 1910, when the system of Town Superintendent of Highways was inaugurated. This was a great step forward in town road construction. Between 1910 and 1920 the following roads were improved: Cooper Road widened and improved: Portland Avenue between Ridge and Norton Street. Hogback Road (now Kings Highway) graded and widened in 1913 and paved soon thereafter. Hudson Avenue from Ridge to Titus, with macadam-1914. Garden Street (now Portland Avenue) from Ridge to Titus-1915. Norton Street from Culver to Helendale-1915. Pinegrove Avenue from St. Paul Blvd to List Avenue-1915. Titus Avenue was built in sections: From St. Paul to Hudson-1914, From Hudson to Garden Street (Portland Avenue) -1915, From Garden Street to Culver Road-1916. This macadam improvement made Titus Avenue one of the foremost roads in Irondequoit. Seneca Road from Culver to the R.R. Tracks (now the new Boulevard)-1916. Bouckhart Avenue from Ridge to Titus-1918. All these improvements were financed by state, county and town money, the town paying 15% of the cost. Before 1836, there was no way of crossing over Irondequoit Creek at Empire Boulevard. But in 1836, Mr. John McGonegal, then Supervisor, built a pontoon-style bridge over the channel. The bridge was anchored at each end and the marsh was filled in with logs. These floating logs and the bridge gave it the name of Float Bridge. In the year 1890, when Mr. William Sours was Supervisor, the town let a contract to have this stretch of about 1000 feet filled in with solid earth. The cost was $5000. In 1920, the bridge was again condemned and in 1924 was replaced with a concrete structure. There are now four dugways that cross the Irondequoit Valley. Float Bridge Blossom Road Atlantic Avenue Penfleld Road All these roads were improved between 1912-1915. The Glen Haven Road was laid out and the hill graded for travel between 1898 and 1900. This road was built by the Glen Haven Improvement Company at their own expense. The Bay View Hill was widened and graded in 1914-1915. The Newport Hill, in the days when tallyhos traveled up and down, required a skilled four-in-hand driver, good brakes going down and plenty of horse power coming up. Generally after heavy rains the hill was in bad condition. It was widened, drained and graveled in 1915. The Birds and Worms Hill was for many years a private road. It was very steep and, because of the expense involved, was not improved until 1913. The Point Pleasant Hill was another steep private road leading to the Bay which was taken over by the town and improved in 1915. The Bay Shore Boulevard was built from Bay View to the Ridge Road during the depression years. The W.P.A. began the job in 1932 and the road was finished in 1935. The work was done under the handicap of inadequate machinery: there were no power shovels or other road machinery used, all work being done by hand with wheelbarrows and two-wheel, hand push-carts. Mr. Louis J. Dubelbeiss was instrumental in getting this boulevard built. He secured the signatures of the 54 property owners, got the County Engineers to make the survey and draw up maps for the proposed road. Mr. Dubelbeiss worked at this project over the seven-year period from 1928-1935 and the Bay Shore residents are greatly indebted to him. For his work his only compensation was the sincere gratitude of the people whom the boulevard benefitted. Previous to 1918 the only way to reach Charlotte from Summerville was by way of the Windsor Ferry. Since this ferry was not in operation after the summer months, Charlotte merchants, selling goods to Summerville residents during the fall and winter, were obliged to travel south on Lake Avenue to Driving Park Avenue Bridge, then down St. Paul Boulevard - a long drive to get across 500 ft. of water. It therefore was a great boon to them when Stutson Street Bridge, erected at a cost of $386,789.55, was opened for traffic March 1, 1918. (Veterans Memorial Bridge was not opened until Dec. 27, 1931.) Reconstruction and repairs are due on Stutson Bridge in the fall of 1957. The job now is required to be completed by May 1958 and calls for strengthening of approaches and installation of a steel gird deck similar to that on the lift spans. The 39-year old bridge was closed to trucks of more than four-ton capacity in 1955, and in 1956 to trucks of more than one ton capacity. VIRGIN TIMBER Irondequoit once was densely covered by some of the most beautiful timber to be found anywhere in New York State. Red and white oak, hard and soft maple, black walnut, wild cherry, hickory, chestnut, hemlock, basswood, spruce and white pine produced logs and lumber of the finest quality. Millions of board feet were cut in Irondequoit forests. This was about the year 1830, when Rochester was doing a great deal of building. White pine predominated. It seemed to thrive best in the northern part of the town, around Irondequoit Bay, and also in the lowland immediately north of the Ridge Rd. There were pine stumps 3 and 4 ft. in diameter, still in fine condition, between Ridge Rd. and Titus Ave. along Bouckhart Ave. and Goodman St. extension (now Kings Highway) as late as 1890. The pine timbers, salvaged from the razing of the Spiritualist Church at the corner of Troup St. and Plymouth Ave. in 1955, that carried the arched ceiling over the auditorium, and the timbers that were used to build the steeple, came from Irondequoit. Pine planks and joists from 2 1/2 to 3 inches thick, 12 to 16 inches wide and from 20 to 30 ft. long have been salvaged from Rochester buildings, which have been demolished to make way for parking lots, the Inner Loop and new buildings. The Barr and Creelman building, razed in 1953 to make way for the Veteran Memorial Building, contained several hundreds of these pine planks and joists, that had been used to support all five floors. The 3-inch joists were as sound as the day they were placed in position. These planks and joists had been sawed from trees in Irondequoit, whose trunks extended 20 to 40 feet before reaching the first limb, and were without knot or blemish. James Sherry, who once owned the land now occupied by the Disposal Plant, often spoke of the beautiful pine and spruce trees on his farm. Hosea Rogers owned many acres of these beautiful trees. He operated a sawmill on the east side of, and used the water power from, Stanton Pond. Saw mills were numerous in different parts of Irondequoit between 1830 and 1860 but few had water power, most of them being operated by horse power. In the years between 1840 and 1850, the Zwergers, Meisenzahls and Baumans, who lived near Bay View and Glen Haven were loggers and were employed to clear the land for crops. They sawed the logs into 12 to 16 inch lengths and split them for dressing into hand made shingles which outlasted those that were sawed. For this activity Bay View become known as Shingle Landing. Chestnut trees were also very plentiful in Irondequoit. There were extensive groves of them, and the bushels of nuts taken from them furnished income for the families who owned them. In those days a bushel of chestnuts brought from $5.00 to $8.00 and some people made as much as $300 to $500 a year on their chestnuts. No spraying, no cultivating, no fertilizer was necessary; the chestnuts were simply picked off the ground after the first frost opened the burrs. If a gentle wind didn't bring down the nuts, then some one climbed the tree to shake or jar the limbs and the nuts would rattle down like hailstones. In addition to the sale of the nuts from these trees there was a ready market for chestnut fence posts, fence rails and sawed lumber. There was a most beautiful grove of chestnut trees in Huntington Hills before the chestnut blight. The Rifle Range section also had fine groves and Chestnut Hill Drive gets its name from the beautiful groves in that locality. There are few places in Irondequoit now where one can see any of this virgin timber; the Buell woods west of the new North-side Hospital contains some, the wooded patch north and east of the Rudman farm on Titus Ave. is still standing and there are more of these trees along Pinegrove Ave. Durand Eastman Park and Seneca Park have some very beautiful trees and these have a chance of being preserved, but the others will probably soon disappear as the building program progresses. Basswood trees can be found down Newport Road. At the Old Homestead, now owned by the Ward Natural Science Establishment, are two mammoth basswood trees, which cast their shadow over the acre of lawn. Basswood is in demand for making extension ladders and for other items requiring strong wood of light weight. In the days gone by, the wild magnolia tree was found in many parts of Irondequoit. This tree, loved so much for its bloom in the month of May, even before other trees have leaves sprouting, thrives best along the edge of woods or in spots not so much overshaded by taller trees. While it likes some shade, it still likes sunlight. Magnolia trees do not grow to the size of forest trees, 10 inches in diameter being considered large. Its wood is the hardest and heaviest to be found in the state, harder even than hickory and so hard that it is impossible to split. For this reason, woodmen have named it "ironwood." A trunk 4 to 6 inches in diameter, when dried makes good mallets. When more plentiful, it was used for hubs of wagon wheels. It required a real mechanic with sharp tools to bore a hole through the center of this hub, and also to bore and chisel the square holes for the spokes. When wooden axles were in universal use, local blacksmiths and wagon-makers sought this kind of wood. Some of the very early settlers indiscriminately cut down the trees for the purpose of making pearl ash which was shipped to Canada via Irondequoit Bay. There was no question of conservation of forests in those days, the settlers being eager to clear the ground for the purpose of raising food crops. OLD PONDS Emerson Pond- Only oldtimers would remember when Emerson Pond occupied what is now the southeast area of St, Paul Street and Ridge Road, including the site now used for the traffic circle at that intersection. There was good fishing there as it was loaded with sunfish, perch and bullheads. This pond was fed by Norton's Creek which was a lively stream. In the wintertime thousands used to skate on the ice there. Coy-Titus Pond- For some of us, the pages of history were turned back when in 1928 the old Coy-Titus Pond was filled in. The dirt used for the filling came from the excavation for Benjamin Franklin High School. The source of this old pond was a spring near where the Hosea Rogers School is located, and the stream was fed by surface waters until the neighborhood "grew up" and sewers were installed. The pond, owned by Egbert Coy before "Dell" Titus bought it, at one time covered about four acres and averaged 5 feet in depth. About 1900, its waters were pumped to sprinkling hnes serving the Titus hothouses and vegetable gardens. The pond contained hundreds of gold fish about forty years ago and they brought a handsome profit. In the 1900's it was used for ice skating. Mr. Edward Graffrath purchased the property from Mr. Titus and it was sold later for the Hudson-Titus Shopping Plaza which opened on that site in June of 1951. Stanton Pond- Stanton Pond, better known in late years as the Willow Pond and originally located on the Roy Rudman farm, was first owned (about 1850) by a man named Chauncey Woodworth. Hosea Rogers, one-time owner of this farm, built a sawmill there and Charles Stanton who purchased the property from Mr. Rogers, built an ice house on the north side. Fishing in the pond was enjoyed by many Irondequoiters and frog spearing was a great sport there too. A sad accident occurred at the old pond on June 13, 1868 when Mary Ball Perkins, wife of Alfred Perkins, was drowned with her two daughters, Alma and Ella. When the Rudman farm was purchased by the Schantz Realty Company, the old Willow Pond was drained. Early Industries NURSERIES The nursery business was one of the leading industries of Irondequoit between the years 1880 and 1920. Millions of plants, seedlings and shrubs were raised here. It was a business not only for nurserymen with large acreage, but also for some of the farmers who grew stock as a side line for the larger concerns. Rochester was, of course, the center of the trade. Apple, peach, pear, and plum orchards were common. It is said that some of the apples from Irondequoit were shipped to England and France. It is also reported that France made its best champagne from dried apples that came from Irondequoit. Mr. George Cooper, one of the first nurserymen in Irondequoit, grew nursery stock on his farm at the corner of Cooper Rd. and Titus Ave., for several years before he entered the gardening business. For some years Mr. Cooper kept a stand at the corner of Main and Front Streets in Rochester, where he retailed the nursery stock grown on his farm. Two of the first nurseymen to carry on the business on a large scale were Charles and Samuel Moulson, Charles owned a large tract on Norton St. between Hudson and Joseph Aves. known as the Union Nursery. Samuel purchased more than 200 acres on the Flats between the Genesee River and Summerville Blvd. They also owned property on Union St. which they sold for the Rochester Public Market. Horace Hooker, brother of Alexander Hooker, came to this locality about 1835. He owned about 200 acres on St. Paul near Titus and started his nursery business there. In 1845, he bought new land on Norton St., which was then in Irondequoit. Little's Nursery was located on Empire Blvd. between Culver and Pardee Roads. Mr. Little also built greenhouses on part of his 150 acre farm. This farm was a show place at one time because of the thousands of roses grown. The Schum Nurseries were also in Irondequoit before that section was annexed to Rochester. They were located on Clifford Ave. midway between Culver and Goodman Sts. This nursery was established in 1867 by Joseph H. Schum and his grandsons Joseph A. and Andrew B. Schum. The Costich Nursery on Culver Road was founded by Frank Costich in 1870 and later the business was carried on by his son, Gilbert. Gilbert developed the business into one of the leading nurseries in this part of the state. He also purchased the property owned by the Little Nursery and built his home on Empire Blvd. A few years ago this home was moved across the road and became part of the property owned by St. Ambrose Church and School. The Costich nursery specialized in roses, pears, plums, quinces, apples, evergreens and ornamental stock, consisting of shrubs and many shade trees. At one time, it is said, the Costich Nursery alone sold on an average 1,500,000 trees a year. This gives a small idea of the volume of nursery business carried on here in the early days of Irondequoit. Other nurserymen grew stock on a much smaller scale. Thomas Bowman was one of these whose property was on Laurelton Tract. Joseph Heberle owned 250 acres on Culver Rd. and raised thousands of trees, mostly for wholesale. Alfred Heberle, his oldest son, is said to be the founder of the celebrated Rochester peach and later carried on business in Penfield. Mr. A. C. Hobbie grew considerable stock for Ellwanger and Barry Co. of Rochester. Many smaller farmers were engaged in growing stock for Brown Bros., a nationally known nursery firm. WINERIES Vinton Wineries- The Vinton family settled in Braintree, Mass. and made their home with the Plymouth Settlers. They were active in establishing the 13 Colonies and were numbered among the Minute Men of Concord. Both John Adams and John Quincy Adams married into the Vinton family. Thus it is apparent that some of our early Irondequoit settlers were of no mean ancestry. In 1812 Joseph Vinton; a descendant of the Vinton family, migrated on horseback all the way from Connecticut to the eastern shore of Irondequoit Bay. He bought three acres of land in what is now the town of Webster, which, included what we know as Inspiration Point and Stony Point on the Bay. Prior to his interest in wineries, Vinton was active in the sawmill business, an industry he had known in Massachusetts. Finding it difficult to get timber across the Bay, he decided to locate on the west shore. He bought 70 acres of land where Newport now stands. About 1820, he erected a sawmill and floated the logs from both sides of the bay to the mill. The mill was operated by driving horses, hitched to beams, around in a circle. This drove the gears, which, in turn, spun the drive pulley for the belt to the shaft of the saw. The lumber from the mill was hauled to Rochesterville. About 1841, the mill was rebuilt and turned into a resort which was called the Newport House. Some of the original logs are found in their hand-hewn form in the foundation of this building today. About 1825 Mr. Vinton built the house now called the Old Homestead which stands on the hill above the Newport House. Mr. Vinton established the first vineyard and winery west of Canandaigua and north of Bath. As there were no nurseries at that time, he grew his settings from his own grape cuttings. His specialties were the Oporto and Isabella grapes; blended, these make excellent Port Wine. Mr. Vinton became the first wine merchant in western New York. He laid the foundation for Irondequoit Port Wine for medicinal purposes, a business later carried on by the McBride Company. After turning Newport into a resort, Mr. Vinton filled in the cove and made more ground for other buildings. The present Newport Road was laid out and graded by Joseph Vinton and it was a great improvement over the old road which ran past the McBride place at the end of Ridge Road and then down the steep hill to the Bay. A few years ago some cannon balls and shells were found by Mr. Joseph E. Duell of 371 Bay Front North, after a land slide into the marsh on the east side of the Bay, in the vicinity of Inspiration Point. He has presented one of each to your Town Historian and these may be examined by anyone interested. The qrandson of Joseph Vinton has told how his grandfather, because he owned farms on both sides of the Bay, gave permission to the State Militia in 1850 to use his property for target practice. The cannons were placed on the hill above Newport and fired at targets across the Bay, which at that time had few inhabitants along the shore. Mr. Vinton said that if all the cannon balls were dug out of the Bay hills, and fished out of the bay bottom, they might fill a five-ton truck. A grandson also called Joseph Vinton was born in 1886 and has been a resident of Irondequoit all his life. In the contracting and building business, he has erected hundreds of homes in Rochester and Irondequoit and developed the subdivision called the Vinton Tract. Vinton Rd. is named for his family. McBride Wineries Asa D. McBride was born in Steuben County, N. Y. in 1832. He was of Swedish descent. As a youth he clerked in a grocery store in Urbana at the head of Keuka Lake, in the heart of the best grape-growing section of America. He became interested in the wine industry and was made a salesman traveling to Rochester and Buffalo with his ponies and wagon. He concentrated on selling to drug stores and only for medicinal purposes. Later he moved to Rochester and, upon visiting the Vinton vineyards, he was so impressed with the possibilities of vine culture along the Bay that he formed a partnership with a man named Joseph Warren and together they bought 45 acres of vineyards from Joseph and Mary Vinton; sometime later, they bought another 16 acres. Mr. Warren did most of the managing at the vineyards while Mr. McBride continued as salesman. They built a stone wine cellar that stood for many years half way down the hill, on the Bay front south of Newport. It was a building 30 by 40 feet with the cellar part in the side hill and the filling and shipping room on the level of a roadway in front. In 1871, Mr. McBride bought out Mr. Warren's interest. His entire attention was now needed at home, so from that time on, he hired salesmen. Henry Wondergem, a man from Holland, who had learned wine-making in France, and had become an expert, was hired. Mr. George L. Chase was also a salesman for the McBride Co. for 46 years. As the demand for Irondequoit Port Wine grew and druggists throughout the east and west increased their orders, larger storage capacity was required. In 1888, therefore, Mr. McBride built a new wine cellar on the level ground at the end of Ridge Rd. above the Bay. This did away with the heavy hauling up and down the long Newport hill. At this same time, he built the huge basement barns. McBride made other wines including Sherry, Catawba, Sauterne, Tokay, Angelica, Blackberry and Cordial, Muscatell, Beef iron and wine, Grape Brandy and Grape Juice. But with all this, he adhered strictly to the drug trade and always turned down orders from saloons. Mr. McBride operated the business alone until January 1, 1899 when the Irondequoit Wine Co. was formed. On July 1, 1908 this company was incorporated with the following officers: President-Asa McBride Secretary and Treasurer-William S. Titus Superintendent-Oscar Smith Foreman-George Thomas Ford In 1909, the Irondequoit Fruit Juice Co. was formed as a subsidiary to the Wine Co. The directors were Asa McBride, Byron M. Hyde, and William S. Titus. This firm made various fruit jucies, fruit syrup, ginger ale, and cordials. It was operated and managed by the Wine Co. Mr. McBride remained active and head of the Company for 55 years. In all he had spent 70 years in the wine business. At the Columbian Exposition at Chicago in 1893 he was awarded a medal for his exhibit. A part of his display at Chicago was a cask of wine holding 135 gallons. With his wife, Mr. McBride spent many winters in Florida, where he died in 1922 at the age of 90 years. Both he and his wife are buried there. The McBride property on Ridge Road was purchased by Ward's Natural Science Establishment in 1941. This establishment was originated in 1862 by Henry A. Ward, Professor of Geology at the University of Rochester. Dr. Dean L. Gamble is in charge at the present date. Models for the Establishment are developed, cast and painted in Girard Studio at 1896 Five Mile Line Road in Penfield. Mrs. Lillian S. Girard, who had worked as an assistant in the model department, is now, with her husband Robert, in charge of the department. They were appointed by Dr. Gamble in February 1952. The studio was formerly located at 1315 Ridge Road East. All models are sold exclusively to the Wards Science Establishment. Dubelbeiss Winery The most distinguished of Irondequoit vintners was Samuel Dubelbeiss who came to the United States in 1839 from Switzerland where his family had been operating vineyards and wineries at Schintznach as far back as the fourteenth century. His son Louis established in 1872 the long-famous Dubelbeiss wine cellars on the south side of Ridge Road, between Portland and Culver, where the old cobblestone buildings were a landmark until recent years. Louis Dubelbeiss died in 1895 and the business was carried on by his sons, Rudolph and Louis. Rudolph Dubelbeiss was elected Supervisor of Irondequoit when he was but 25 years old. He served for three years 1898-1900 and died suddenly of a heart attack at the age of 28 years. Louis was also elected to the office of Supervisor in 1910 and served in that office for ten years, 1910-1920. The Dubelbeiss family produced wine of the finest quality which was sold exclusively to private homes. This custom of serving wine in the home was quite general among people of foreign extraction who brought the habit from various European countries. In 1910, Mr. Louis Dubelbeiss discontinued the wine business and began the manufacture of unfermented grape juice. Later he carried on a large business in the canning industry. The large stone fire-proof building on Ridge Road East, used for so many years as a wine cellar by the Dubelbeiss family, is now used as a show room for the Miller Ford Company. MILK BUSINESS Between 1880 and 1900, Irondequoit was the main source of milk supply to the greater part of Rochester on the east side. In that period there were as high as 60 dealers who produced milk on a large scale, and about 10 to 15 others who bought and peddled milk. In all there were 75 wagons delivering milk to Rochester customers. Milk sold for 5c a quart in summer and 6c in winter. There was a time when some producers were accused of "watering" their milk. Thus, milk inspectors were hired to test the milk and if the required strength was not found, the dealer was notified to appear in court and was fined. Sanitary conditions were often neglected. Refrigeration was unknown. Sometimes big cans of milk were cooled by standing them in a watering trough. There were no milking machines at that time. Before the present bottle was invented, milk was dispensed from a can holding several gallons. This can was carried from the milk wagon, or sleigh, if it was winter time, to the back door of a home and ladled by means of a long-handled dipper into the receptacle furnished by the house wife. This quart ladle was left inside the can with the cover closed tight while moving from house to house. Tickets were sold in quantities of from 10 to 100, each marked 1 quart. Each morning the milkman found, beside the receptacle for the milk, the number of quarts required that day, unless there was a standing order for a certain amount each day. In winter when the roads were blocked for weeks at a time because of stormy, zero weather and snow drifts completely filled the road, the milkman's task was anything but an easy one. Sometimes the sleigh would tip over, and if the covers of the cans were not on tight, milk was lost in the snow. Leaving very early in the morning, hopping on and off a wagon for hours, carrying heavy cans, was a hard day's work, but some followed this life year after year. Mr. Isaac Buyck was one who boasted of 27 years without missing a day. GARDENING AND FRUIT FARMING The real settlement of Irondequoit began about 1800. Before that time, the land here was not much of a temptation to farmers. This land, bounded on three sides by water, with numerous bays, indentations, and much marsh land, seemed only for the hunter and the trapper. It was no light task for these hardy pioneers to clear the timber, off the land with the primitive tools they had. In those days when men were chopping farms out of the wilderness, the one question of greatest importance was: How could they live for the first two or three years, from the resources provided? Land must be purchased, timber cleared, house built and seed sown. Wheat was the usual crop, with a few vegetables for the table. The earliest settlers came from Vermont. Oliver Culver, Jesse Case, Jesse Taintor and Samuel Spafford were among the first. Some of them brought their families. Within the next two years, others came-Elmer Reynolds and John Culver, a brother of Oliver. Ransford Perrin came in 1805. Adonijah Green settled here in 1810 and was for many years a leading man in the town. Other early settlers, about 1815, included Abner Wakelee, Abel Dens-more, Joseph Leggett, Isaac and James Waring, Henry Case, Samuel Kniffin, Reuben Hickok, Petit Loder, Patrick Dickinson, A. M. Guff, Archibald and Jerry Hoffman and others whose names are now lost. Many of these names may be found today on the old tombstones of Hooker Cemetery. For the most part, these men all settled in the southern part of the town. The portions north of the Ridge were all forest-covered and too swampy for farming. Malaria, better known as "Genesee Fever", was prevalent and some of the early comers became discouraged with the poor soil and moved farther west into Ohio. Those who stayed, however, soon found ways of draining the marsh land. They discovered that by using better plows they could stir up the subsoil, and, mixing it with topsoil, produce abundant crops. It later developed that Irondequoit possessed some of the most fertile and productive soil to be found in the whole Genesee Country and became one of the finest gardening centers of Monroe County. The few early comers to take up land north of the Ridge Road in Irondequoit chose wheat for their first crop for two good reasons: they needed this essential food and Rochester mills were not too far away. Thus, Irondequoit in those days helped Rochester to become the "Flour City." Vineyards and fruit orchards were also planted by these early residents, especially by those who could afford to buy large farms. Several bought as many as 100 acres and one family purchased over 800 acres. Apple, peach, pear, cherry, and occasionally a prune orchard, were planted all over the area. However, of the 235 farms owned in 1869 (the earliest year for which such records are available) over half were of less than fifty acres, an indication of the relatively small plots which have always characterized Irondequoit gardening and which necessitated the "intensive" farming for which this area was once known. The earliest gardeners came from England, and to them belongs the credit for fine outdoor gardening. They raised such spring vegetables as spinach, lettuce, beets, onions and radishes; summer crops consisted of potatoes, asparagus, peas, beans, corn, tomatoes and cucumbers; popular fall crops were squash, parsnips, turnips and celery. Good seeds have always been important to gardeners here. Some even specialized in growing seeds for wholesale seed houses both in Rochester and distant parts of the country. One gardener still supplies seeds for a firm in Colorado and has sent them as far afield as Labrador. In the early days, many acres were devoted to celery. The small plants were raised, sometimes in hot beds if forcing was required and then transplanted about the middle of June. Young boys and girls were hired to drop the plants, at a certain number of inches apart, for the gardeners who followed and set them in the ground. The crop was ready for harvesting before frosts were due but still had to be bleached. This was done by packing it in root houses, built after the style of greenhouses but smaller in size and usually with a sod roof. After working all day in the fields digging the celery, long evenings were spent, with the light of kerosene lanterns, in packing it away. Later, gardeners dug trenches in the fields where celery had grown and packed it away there to be left to bleach. Other fall crops such as turnips and parsnips were stored in the same manner during the winter months. While vegetables grown here have never had to take a "back seat" for any grown elsewhere, the products for which Irondequoit has long been most famous, both at home and abroad, are its melons and peaches. Mr. William Sutton was the first to produce the Irondequoit melon, but many following him improved upon the variety and produced the ones much sought after by connoisseurs everywhere. Mr. Hiram Pardee is said to have produced the first commercial crop of peaches, but his little orchard was just the forerunner of the hundreds of acres of peaches grown here since that time. It is hard to tell who was entitled to be called the "Peach King." Several have been so called at one time or another and no doubt each has merited it. The largest peach orchard was one of 70 acres containing 8000 trees and located on the Rogers farm, where now hundreds of houses are built. 38 About 1900, irrigation was installed by some of the gardeners to assure better crops, especially during a dry season. Early surface methods of watering were soon replaced by "Skinner" irrigation, a system utilizing overhead pipes into which water is pumped and forced through small holes to descend in a fine spray as the pipes rotate. Still later methods have been found more effective. There was rivalry among the growers as to who would have the first crop of certain vegetables or fruit on the market, for the "early bird" usually got the "worm" in the high price for his work. Rochester's Liberty Pole was for many years the public market place where Irondequoit growers took their produce to be sold. For thirty years, this famous landmark stood on the hill at the west corner of Main and Franklin streets. It was 101 feet tall, three feet in diameter and was surmounted by a brass ball and an arrow weathervane. On its lower reaches were blocks for climbing the wooden shaft. The Liberty Pole was raised on the eve of July 4, 1859 and was thus for many years the scene of Independence celebrations. During the Civil War, the flag waving atop the pole told of every Union victory. It waved at half mast on Memorial Days. The Liberty Pole became a Main Street fixture and the whole triangle of Main, Franklin and North Streets took its name. Across the street on the present McCurdy store site was the Farmers' Hotel and country people used to say, "I'll meet you at the Liberty Pole." None dreamed but that the sturdy landmark would last forever. But on the morning of December 26, 1889, a 72-mile-an-hour gale swayed the pole dangerously and before firemen could secure it to a nearby building, with ropes, it cracked in two and the top came crashing into Main St. No one was injured, but the toppling pole just missed the carriage of Mr. Lindsay of the Sibley, Lindsay and Curr Company. For months the stump remained and a coin box was placed on it for donations for a new pole. However, no firm would make a steel pole of the old dimensions, so the idea was abandoned and the stump ultimately removed. An inscribed bronze plate was placed at the site, by the Society for the Preservation of Historic Landmarks. This was set in the pavement because a city street-widening project had shaved off the old right-angle junction of Main and Franklin Streets. One morning the marker was missing. It had been ripped from the pavement and no one knows what became of it. Three days each week-Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday- were market days at the Liberty Pole. The men left their homes with their loads of vegetables and fruit early the night before, so as to secure a good stand near the Pole for business the next morning. Wagons were strewn along the side streets for several blocks. It is not easy to try to sleep on a wagon seat, rolled up in a blanket from ten o'clock in the evening until four or five o'clock the next morning, but the man could not leave his wagon because his produce and horses needed protection. Finally, congested traffic in this area called for something to be done, and in 1910 the city named a commission to find land for a public market. The Moulson property on Union Street was chosen largely because of its extent and its proximity to the railroad. This Union Street market (Rochester Public Market) is still in operation although the new Genesee Valley Regional Market on Jefferson Road was opened in October of 1956 to take advantage of the extensive trucking business using the New York State Thru-way. This development in trucking has also relieved many gardeners of taking their produce to market, for huge trucks come regularly, from near and far, to collect their plants and vegetables for re-sale in various parts of the Northeastern states. Some of the growers in Irondequoit today are of the fourth and fifth generation of their families in this business. They have known many changes throughout the years. Very few of the fine vegetable gardens and fruit orchards are still left because the moving of the "city folks" to the suburbs has changed all that, but the lovely flower gardens and the velvety lawns about these many new homes still attest to the richness of Irondequoit soil. Irondequoit is not now the garden spot it once was, but it has made a name for itself in that field that will never be erased. Additional Comments: Extracted from: IRONDEQUOIT STORY A History of the Town of Irondequoit (Suburb of Rochester, County of Monroe, State of New York) COVERING THE YEARS 1839-1957 Collected and Compiled by MAUDE I. WEST, Town Historian Published by The Town of Irondequoit File at: http://files.usgwarchives.org/ny/monroe/history/1957/irondequ/backgrou6ms.txt This file has been created by a form at http://www.poppet.org/nyfiles/ File size: 86.3 Kb