Allegheny County PA Archives FAMILY HISTORY...HASTINGS (ANDERSON), Sally; Travel Diary 1800 ************************************************ Copyright. All rights reserved. http://www.usgwarchives.net/copyright.htm http://www.usgwarchives.net/pa/pafiles.htm ************************************************ File contributed for use in USGenWeb Archives by: Jamie Danker [jdanker@joimail.com] March 2005 NOTE FROM CONTRIBUTOR ON HER RELATIONSHIP TO THIS DIARY: The author of the diary, Sally Anderson Hastings, was the sister of my 3rd great-grandfather, Robert Anderson, who was one of the travelers. Robert, married twice, was the father of 14 children; he was at one time the Sheriff of Washington County and a member of the PA Legislature. Robert moved his family to Allegheny County between 1822 and 1825, where many of his descendants were well known in the Sewickley and Shousetown (Glenwillard) areas. (As a side note, Robert's 2nd wife, Jemima Taylor Swearingen Anderson, was the grandaunt of William F. "Buffalo Bill" Cody.) In A Descriptive Account of a Family Tour to the West, Sally Anderson Hastings provides details of the journey from Lancaster County, PA to Washington County, PA. The group of travelers - Sally Anderson Hastings; her brother, Robert Anderson and his wife, Elizabeth Agnew Anderson; and her sister Rebecca Anderson Barton and her husband, Joseph Barton, and their children, and likely a slave or servant or two - left Lancaster County on October 7, 1800 and arrived at their destination in Cross Creek Twp., Washington County on October 31. The Descriptive Account was originally written as a letter to her mother, who remained in Lancaster County, but was later included in a book of Sally Anderson Hastings' poetry. In the book, the Descriptive Account is preceded by a note "To the Public" that explains her reasons for including it in the book. Both the note to the public and the descriptive account of the journey follow. Note that both of these are originally written in the "old style" - in which the letter s is replaced with the letter f. For ease of reading, it has been transcribed with the proper use of the letters f and s; all other spelling and punctuation is as it was originally published. Notes: (1)The brother, Robert Anderson, in 1808 became Sheriff of Washington County and then later (1811 or 1812) was elected to the State Legislature for Washington County. And later, he ran for Sheriff again, but apparently was unsuccessful. Sometime between 1822-1825, Robert Anderson and his 2nd wife and family moved to Leetsdale, Allegheny County. (2)The sister, Rebecca Anderson Barton died in 1801, shortly after their arrival in Washington County. Her husband, Joseph, remarried to a Nancy McComb. Apparently at least some of the children of Rebecca and Joseph went back to Lancaster County as three of them are buried there: Margaret in 1876, Eliza in 1815 and Anna in 1820. (3)Sometime about 1804/1805, Sally Anderson Hastings traveled back to Lancaster County, where her book was published in 1808. She later returned to Washington County, where she died April 30, 1812. TO THE PUBLIC The following Notes were originally written at the Request, and intended for the Amusement, of a highly respected Lady. The are now offered to the Public, in compliance with the joint Solicitations of a number of Persons, of the first Character, who have honored me with a particular and very disinterested Friendship. In submitting to their Judgment, in this particular, I will honestly confess that I have done considerable violence to my own; as I am sensible that the Performance is, at best, insipid and trifling; and abounds with so many Defects, that, if it fail on incurring Contempt, my most sanguine Expectations will be realized. A faultless Performance, I presume, is seldom to be found, even from the ablest Pens, and under the most favorable Circumstances: And, indeed, I conceive it possible for an Author to be very correct and methodical; and, withal, exceedingly dull. The same Energy of Mind, which is requisite to enable an Author to write with Spirit, frequently, through Defect of human Judgment, leads him to glaring Errors. As Weeds luxuriant in rich Pastures grow; So, from the richest Source, rank Errors flow. May I not hope, that this Consideration will alleviate the Censure of my Readers; that, beside extreme Inexperience, I had to encounter every Difficulty, which naturally arose from the situation of a fatigued Traveller, in a mountainous Country, incumbered with the Care of a numerous Family, and laboring under the sorest of all Diseases - a wounded Spirit. But, as I have no Doubt that the majority of those, who have generously favored me with their Indulgence and Patronage, were actuated by the most amiable Motives; so, it would be highly ungrateful and disingenuous, if I were to distrust their Lenity, or question their Candor. THE AUTHORESS A DESCRIPTIVE ACCOUNT OF A FAMILY TOUR TO THE WEST; IN THE YEAR 1800. IN A LETTER TO A LADY Donegal township, Lancaster county, Oct. 7. Madam, This Day I am to start for Washington, Pennsylvania, in company with my Sister, who is removing thither with her Family. Mr. ----, her Husband, purchased a Farm in that Settlement, some years ago, with an Intention to settle there; but many Obstacles have hitherto prevented his accomplishing this Design. These, however, are now removed; and the long-procrastinated Journey is about to commence. You, Madam, can better imagine, than I describe, the variety of Feelings which agitate my Mind, as the moment approaches which is to separate me from my tender Infants. Yes, Madam, 'impell'd by strong Necessity's supreme Command,' I am commencing an Exile from my native home, my Family, and all my heart holds dear on earth; with the humble Intention of seeking, among Strangers, that sympathetic Friendship, to which the Child of Misfortune has ever a Claim; and of procuring an Asylum where, far removed from the varied scene of my more prosperous days, in the tranquil bosom of Retirement and Solitude, I may become so familiarized with Adversity, so to forget that I once was blest. There, Madam, superior to the precarious favors of capricious Fortune, and unterrified by her frown, might I not hope to enjoy those independent Blessings, which the world can neither confer nor withhold. In compliance with your Request, I purpose to write you a familiar Journal of our Perigrination westward; and to relate Occurrences, unadorned, as they take place; with such Observations as Nature may suggest, while presenting me with a view of some of her most magnificent Productions. Our Family consists of ten Persons; five of whom are children. Out mode of traveling is in a Wagon; a kind of Conveyance entirely new to us all; but particularly so to me, who am, in every sense of the word, a homebred Rustic; and enter on this Journey with those raised Expectations, which Persons of this description are apt to possess, when entering on a scene calculated, by its Novelty, to gratify that laudable Curiosity, inherent in every breast, unhurt by Apathy, and not spoiled by Art. Pleasure, however, is not my sole Object in this Excursion. There are two more potent, and, I trust, more laudable Motives, stimulating me to undertake this Journey. My Sister (into whose Protection I have been thrown by the rough hand of unrelenting Adversity) has been, under divine Providence, my sole Dependance. She is now in a declining state of Health; And some one says, that 'the Wants and Weaknesses of Individuals form the great Bonds of Society.' Our most endearing Intercourses rise From mutual Weakness, Wants, and Sympathies; All are but parts of one complete Machine, And act subservient to one great Design; Here rests a pillar, there a pendant leans; This turns a wheel, and that a spring contains. By one great moving Cause in ev'ry Mind, Parts devious in themselves are all combin'd; 'Tis potent Interest governs great and small, And sly Self-love's the masterkey in all. Our place of Destination is two hundred and fifty miles from Lancaster county; and as our Family is in the most uncomfortable situation for traveling, both on account of my Sister's health, and the age and number of the Children, it is supposed that it will take three weeks to accomplish our Journey. But I must depart --- to Children, Friends, and Acquaintances, with trembling hand and palpitating heart, I bid a long, and perhaps a last, adieu! 'O hills! O vales! where I have stray'd; Ye woods that wrapt me in your shade; O scenes I've often wander'd o'er; O scenes I shall behold no more; I take a long, last, ling'ring view - Adieu, my native land, adieu!' October 8. Dauphin county. After travelling 18 miles, through very swampy roads, occasioned by the late excessive rains, we arrived late last night ad an Inn. We were quite spiritless; and, if not altogether unhappy, at least sufficiently so to prevent our enjoying that sweet restorative of exhausted Nature, balmy Sleep. We were likewise disturbed by the Noise of an intoxicated Gentleman. O, Madam, how little were his Feelings in unison with ours! Why is it, that the fine enthusiastic Sensibilities of our Nature, which qualify us for, and give a zest to, the most refined Enjoyments of Life, are thus perpetually exposed to have their delicate edge blunted by a thousand Rudenesses and Vulgarities? Thus furnishing a source of exquisite Torture to their unhappy Possessors! Philosophers may argue as wisely as they please, and attribute what wonders they will, with Sypmathy; and inculcate the Principles of the universal Benevolence, with all the powers of Eloquence, and strength of Argument; yet, I am skeptical enough to disbelieve that the former ever exists, in any great degree, except between Parties possessing congenial Dispositions; and that the latter, though a fine-spun theory, is by no means reducible to practice; and, consequently, exists only in the Imagination of those exalted Geniuses, who scorn to depreciate their own refined Speculations, by comparing them with the vulgar Experience of real Life. I am only eighteen miles from home; yet I begin to perceive that the links of the chain which bond Man to Man are become exceedingly fragile; And, however bending the Principles of universal Benevolence may be, they form no distinguishing trait in the Character of your humble Servant. This morning we crossed the Susquehanna; and such is my Fear of venturing into a Ferry-boat, that it required a full quarter of an hour's Reasoning to convince me, that, to a Predestinarian, the greatest Danger, and no Danger, is absolutely the same thing! Perhaps there are no two things in Nature more at variance, than my Principles and Practice: For, though I indubitably believe in the universal Sovereignty of the Deity; yet I perceive I am never willing to resign the reigns of government into his hands, while I can possibly hold them in my own. Cumberland county. Figure to yourself, Madam, a fine champaign Country; in the highest state of Cultivation; here and there interspersed with decent Farm-houses; while the adjacent Lands appear in all the pride of Autumnal Glory: And bounteous Ceres clothes each smiling vale, And the pleas'd Swain relates his artless tale; The Woodman's pond'rous strokes, the Virgin's songs, And whistling echo, still each note prolongs. The prospect is grand, and bounded by the bending skies, or terminated by the interference of surrounding mountains; which rise like smoky columns, and lose their azure summits amidst the fleeting clouds. Call in the liveliest aids of your Imagination, Madam; and , when you have pictured a Landscape consummately lovely, you will have that with which I am at present surrounded: Who, Absorb'd in Care, from life's gay scenes retire, To taste the joys sweet Solitude inspire, There, stretch'd beneath the cool refreshing shade, View beaut'ous Nature, rich by Art array'd. October 9. Last night we enjoyed the Blessings of a comfortable Supper, excellent Lodging, and calm refreshing Sleep. This morning the spirits of the greatest part of us are enveloped in a thick cloud, which neither the rays of the natural Sun can dispel, nor the intellectual beam enlighten. To me, this Journey, as yet, is but a perpetual scene of delightful variety; though I believe the nature of our Situation demands, that, in order to possess some Advantages, it is necessary to sacrifice others: And they who aim at grasping a great variety, generally fail of securing any. Imaginary Evils are not only the most numerous, but likewise the most intolerable, under which the human Family groan - Evils, for which neither Nature nor Grace, amidst all their multifarious resources, exhibit any assuasive Remedy. Carlisle. This Town is beautifully situated, and seems very populous. I think the generality of the People I have seen possess an air of impertinent Curiosity; for a more particular Description of which, I refer you to the Story of the Nose, related by the inimitable Sterne. I would here remark, Madam, that it is one of the Misfortunes of Travellers, that their Situation excludes them, in a great measure, from the Society of those who are generally styled 'the better Sort;' and consequently, their Observations are, for the most part, confined to the Populace. October 10. Last night we lodged at ---; where, amidst a variety of vexatious Incidents, which had almost metamorphosed me into a snarling Cynic, to my great relief I had the Happiness to be introduced to a person of Intelligence and Respectability; who was likewise a Lodger. His agreeable Conversation served as a Talisman, both to restore my spirits, and reduce my temper; upon which, the repulsive looks and behavior of the Landlady had produced a very opposite effect. You, Madam, whom I believe to be no Adept in the science of Physiognomy, will scarce credit the Influence which a Countenance possesses over a whimsical Being like myself; who consider the Face as a Title-page, and every variation of the Features, an Index, to the human Heart. Our Landlord was one of those inoffensive Creatures, whose Character I shall give you a sketch of, in the following lines: They eat, they sleep, the walk about; Go here and there, and in and out; Nut neither think, contrive, nor do, Things good, or bad, or old, or new. Not wise of speech, of heart, or head; Nor quite a Fool, alive, nor dead; Who purpose just to live and die; But care not how, nor when, nor why. Franklin county. I think the Land is poor, and the generality of the Houses are but Huts; yet the Inhabitants appear to be well informed: And, if it is proper to draw a determinate Conclusion from presumptive Evidence, we are drawing near the frontiers of Refinement. Pine grows here in great abundance. The Trees are exceedingly tall and beautiful; and retain their verdure through all the severity of Winter. The Town of Shippensburg contains many good Houses, is a mile in length, and consists principally of one Street. From this place, we made a Visit to ---, accompanied by Mr. ---, with whom we took Tea; and afterwards proceeded, by a kind of by-road, to our present Lodging. Here we were entertained with the whole Vocabulary if his Satanic Majesty; with some Additions and Alterations; entirely on a new Plan: The whole executed in so masterly a manner, that one is lead to conclude it is the Production of his Prime Minister. But it is the Opinion of some, who are wiser than myself, that it is indebted for its origin to one of the Stable Grooms of that unhappy Monarch. It is, however, indisputably the discriminating Dialect of the demoniacal Fraternity, and an undeniable Badge of their Loyalty. Let black Infernals, in the realms of Night, In impious Oaths, and Jests profane, delight: But let not Man the direful theme repeat; For he, who swears, will lie, betray, and cheat. Our Landlord is really a smart young Man, and united, in his individual person, the various Virtues of Soldier, Statesman, and Innkeeper! He acquits himself, I am informed, with amazing Dexterity, in his manifold Capacity; and declares himself perfectly willing to add another trait to his Character, by commencing Lover. Of all Men I ever knew, he seems to be the best calculated to carry on an Amour, with what the French call a Coup de Main; for his whole Deportment carries an air of Intrepidity, which baffles Repulse, and sets Resistance at defiance. There is in his Company a young Gentleman, whose Manners declare him to be of a different Character; and he endeavors to apologize for his Companion, by assuring us, 'that, notwithstanding his Eccentricity, he has an excellent Heart.' Doctor (said I) I respect your Veracity, as your Panegyric did not include his Head likewise. October 11. Seated in a neat little Breakfast-parlor, in the pleasant Village of Strasburg, I am amusing myself, by observing the military Evolutions of a Brigade of well-disciplined Soldiers. This appears to me, an Exercise better calculated to display the manly graces of a finely- proportioned Figure, than the most approved Country-dance I ever saw. In its nature, it seems to combine so much of the Elegant and Useful, that I presume there are few Amusements, in which a Gentleman can engage, that offer him so fair an Opportunity of complimenting his Understanding. Here we are presented with a striking Contrast. On one hand lies a fine level Country, smooth as the unruffled face of Heaven, in all the pride of luxurious Vegetation. On the other, clad in awful sublimity and majestic grandeur, rife the stupendous Mountains; which heave their forest-crowned summits to the clouds- There shroud their awful brow, whose nodding frown Sheds a deep, dark, and chilling horror round. Surely, one would think, that Nature had here drawn her Boundary-line; fixed her limits with the most impregnable barriers; and said to the intrepid Sons of Men, 'Hitherto, but no farther, shall ye come!' What a prodigious object is this Mountain! All I have ever beheld, of the Works of Art, sing into Insignificance, when compared with this masterly Production of Nature, How mighty is He, whose voice can shake it to the centre! 'At whose command, the weighty rocks Are swift as hailstones hurl'd! Who dare engage His fiery rage, Who shakes the solid World!' WATTS. I have seated myself, Madam, on the highest pinnacle of the first Mountain. Never before did I breathe the pure salubrious Air, in so exalted a situation. Below, lies an extensive Country, embellished with all the Arts of civilized Life; whose Towns and Villages are now finely decorated by the mellow tints of an Autumnal Sun; which sheds a grand Sublimity over the scene with which I am surrounded, and wakes every faculty of the Soul into a glow of enthusiastic Ardor. Great God, how pow'rful is thy hand! Thy Works, how great! how wise! Low sink the vales, at thy command - The tow'ring mountains rise! At thy command, the Sun unveils His glories in the East; And sinks his flaming chariot-wheels Low, in the distant West. The waxing and the waning Moon, Proclaim thy Skill abroad; And ev'ry rolling Star makes known The Glories of a God! Thou dost my heaving Lungs inspire, Thou form'dst my beating Heart; My Soul, this spark of heav'nlt fire, Thy Goodness did impart. Within, without, thy Wisdom bright, Thy Pow'r, thy Truth I prove: Nature displays they works of Might; But Grace, thy works of Love. All here is wild - wild, beyond the reach of Description; and great, beyond the grasp of Imagination, Nature, divested of the gaudy Decorations of Ornament (like the impetuous Efforts of a masterly Genius) has here arrayed herself in terrific magnificence and sublimity. The gloomy grandeur of the Scene fills me with a degree of painful Astonishment. Above, Mountains seem heaped on Mountains; whose cloud-capt summits threaten, in proud defiance, even the Heavens themselves! Heav'd on Olympus, tott'ring Ossa stands; On Ossa, Pelion's nodding Forest bends. Pine is the only kind of timber this Mountain produces. There is a luxuriant growth of wild Vines, intermingled with a low species of the Thorn-tree. These, with a small herb, called Mountain-tea, are its principal productions. The Soul is only a loose Sand, thinly spread over the Rocks; which are in most places prominent, and frequently rise in stupendous Eminences. The persevering Pines force their way through the craggy cliffs, and appear to have no other Soil. We arrived, by dark, at a neat little Village, between the second and third Mountains, called Fannetsburg. Between the first and second, there is a narrow Valley, in which we dined, and had our Horses fed. I believe the second Mountain is the highest of these three; and, added to its native wildness, being excluded from all prospect of civilized Life, it has an appearance of Solitude and Terror, beyond anything my Imagination, in its most gloomy Excursions, ever formed. There are several Huts on the Mountains; the Inhabitants of which make a miserable Living, by retailing Liquors to the many Travellers who pass that way. This little Village, Fannetsburg, is situated in the midst of a lovely Valley, called the Path; and, although enclosed in the solitary bosom of surrounding Mountains, its Inhabitants enjoy a degree of luxurious Plenty; and our Hosts are really polite. The Valley is in such perfect Cultivation, that, to our view, it exhibited the prospect of a delightful Garden, as we traveled round the sides of the Mountain. To ascend these Mountains on foot (and not one of us will ride over them) is a task truly arduous. To descend them, is by no means less difficult; as they are so exceedingly stony, that one can scarce get stable footing, for one yard in a place. We are all fatigued, especially the Children; ad my Sister is almost exhausted. To travel through this Region, Madam, demands the exercise of Fortitude; and those who are Strangers to this Virtue, will here learn how to appreciate its value. October 12. Huntingdon county. This morning is cloudy, and portends a rainy day. It is the Sabbath; but the Inn, in which we lodged, is so crouded, that we have determined to cross the third Mountain before we breakfast; and there remain until Monday. Thro' desart hills and lonely wilds I roam; Unnumber'd toils increasing as I go; Far from my dearest Friends, my native home, And happiness, alas! I fear from you. Back, thro' the dreary void; I cast my eyes, And feel a rising pang at each remove; Close as the cords of life are Nature's ties; And stronger far than Death, are those of Love! I bid the Muse assuage my rising grief; The Muse obeys, and pours the plaintive strain; Her melting notes afford the wish'd relief, And soothe my troubled Mind to peace again. The hail! thou sacred Source of Bliss refin'd; Thy sweet, celestial, soul-expanding charms Soothe the corroding Sorrows of the Mind, And ev'ry ill of human life disarms. After immense Difficulty, in climbing the steep ascent (rendered doubly difficult by the showers that were falling, which made the Road so slippery that it was often impossible for us to keep our feet) we came to a Fire, about half a mile from the summit. Here, on the brow of the solitary Mountain, three poor Families had passed the Night. With truth it may be said, that their Couch was the cold Earth; their Chamber, the unlimited regions of Space; and their Covering, the spacious canopy of Heaven. Little, O ye Sons and Daughters of Affluence and Luxury - who stretch yourselves on Couches of Ivory, and eat of the Stall; who chaunt to the found of the Viol, and little do you think of the Toils, the Privations, and Sufferings which numbers of the human Family daily endure! At this Fire, we determined to prepare our Breakfast; as we had every necessary Article with us, except Water. This I went in search of, by the guidance of a small winding Path, which led down the Declivity. My Attention soon became so much occupied with the surrounding Objects, that I forgot my Errand, neglected the Path, and strayed from place to place, examining the Curiosities of Nature; unmindful of the existence of any other Individual of the Family of Adam; until I became entangled in a Thicket, on the brow of a frightful Precipice! This awoke me to a sense of the Impropriety of my Conduct. There was no Appearance of any human Being ever having trodden the lonely Labyrinth; and the Prospect, from every quarter, presented a scene of wild Devastation and Horror. 'Here Melancholy sits, and round her throws A death-like silence, and a dread repose.' After various ineffectual Attempts to regain the Road I had left (which had exhausted my Strength, confused my Ideas, and entirely incapacitated me for any further Exertion) I quietly sat down; and, in the space of three minutes, was as happy as Imagination could make me. Retir'd, in social converse with the heart; Each thought at home, each vanity apart; Here, in this deep sequester'd gloom obscure, Unpierc'd by Fancy, from Deceit secure; Tell me, my Soul, what Meditation taught, Reason confirms, and wise Experience bought. 'Tis not in noise, nor crouds, in hest or song, The laughing circle, nor the dancing throng, That sweet celestial Happiness you'll find: She sits enthroned in the virtuous Mind." I was quietly following the Impulses of my vagrant Muse; when the arrival of my Brother, and a wish to regain my Friends (who were almost in despair of ever seeing me) obliged me to treat her with considerable Abruptness. No Persuasions being sufficient to deter our Ladies from executing their romantic plan of Breakfasting on the Mountain, we proceeded to its summit; where sumptuous Preparations are going forward; while I, seated by the side of a beautiful Spring, am alternately engaged in contemplating the surrounding Scenery, and in faintly sketching some of its leading Features; in order to transmit the imperfect resemblance to you. The Air, on these Eminences, is exceedingly thin and sharp; and the Weather changes every quarter of ah hour; or, rather, we have every kind of Weather at the same time. The Sun is shining bright on the summit, where I now am; the midst is enveloped in Clouds; while heavy Rains falling in the Valley below. Here the soul is uncommonly alive. Perhaps these are the Scenes for exalted Meditation; or the favorite haunts of the Muses: Or, it may be, as we approach nearer to the celestial Regions, the native element of Spirits, ours become more alert and invigorated; or, perhaps, surrounded as we are with sublime Objects, and those operating on the Senses, they communicate the most exalted Ideas to the Mind; which, exerting all its powers in the Contemplation of awful Nature, expands, until - bursting the Shackles which confine it to Earth, and affecting its native Prerogative and Independence - it rises, in a kind of enthusiastic Ardor, and contemplates the Perfections of Nature's God! We have made a delightful Breakfast, somewhat in Imitation of the Turkish Mode; but differing in this particular: Our Forms and Carpets were of Nature's manufacturing; and the Circumstance which gave the highest zest to our Entertainment was, that we could once more enjoy the Blessings of Life, and the Pleasures of domestic Society, independent of every Being, except Omnipotence. I am sensible, Madam, that Happiness is neither limited to Time nor Circumstances; that the capricious Goddess sometimes favors is with a Visit, when her Company is least expected; and that, like a modern Coquette, while she flies from her ardent Pursuers, she lavishes her choicest Smiles on those who treat her wit Disregard. But I am far from supposing it an unpardonable Outrage against Probability, to assert, that Persons of delicate Sensibility (except in particular Situations) enjoy the fewest Favors, of this kind, of any Class in the train of her numerous Adorers. The trembling strings, if touch'd with skill, Thro' ev'ry nerve do rapture thrill; But, if by artful rudeness prest, Despair and anguish seize the breast: Discordant notes, or tones, impart Exquisite feelings to the heart. We arrived, by ten o'clock, at a very genteel private Lodging; where we purpose to remain until Monday. This House, with all its Furniture, exhibits the most pleasing emblem of Industry, Neatness, and Economy, The hospitable Inhabitants are more cordial than ceremonious; and, from the oldest to the youngest, possess a native Simplicity which, I believe, never fails to recommend itself, as the most convincing Evidence of a warm and benevolent Heart. Unskil'd in ev'ry polish'd rule, Practis'd in artful Fashion's school; Who, aiming at exterior grace, Neglects the heart, to smooth the face; And, changing honest Nature's plan, Refines the Manners, not the Man; Stifles each feeling of the heart, And paints a half-form'd thing of Art. This Valley is very fertile. I think the Soil is excellent of Pasturage; as I observer there are upwards of forty large Cheeses ripening, in the Apartment where I now fit. We are supplied with all the choice Dainties of the Dairy, which, on this Road, are the greatest Luxuries on can be presented with. October 13. It has rained all day; we have progressed only five miles; and lodge, to-night, west of Fort Littleton. Here is a large and very jolly Company; which had, prior to our arrival, engaged every Bed and Bedchamber in the House. We are reduced to the disagreeable Necessity of sleeping on Chairs, Benches, or any other way we please; surrounded, at the same time, with a group of Demi-politicians, antiquarian Story-tellers, and quibbling Humorists, who court Popularity by ever melting measure of sober Dullness. The great diversity of there Talents renders our situation extremely tantalizing: For when, by the powers of Oratory, our passions are composed into the most slumberous attitude; the marvellous Adventures of the travelling, or the brilliant Flashes of the punning, part of our Society, excite our Astonishment and inflame our Imagination to such a degree, that Morpheus is not only suspended form his Throne, but absolutely banished from his Dominions. Sick of those silly vehicles of thought (With hackney'd jokes and cobweb fancies fraught) Of wond'rous tales, sarcasms, and grimace, And ev'ry sly vicisitude of face; Where flippant Cocxcombs ape the fire of Wit, And grinning Rudeness compliments the Cit; Where Dullness drops the unfeeling Jest, sever, And bleeding Sensibility - a Tear; Where blushing Modesty her veil assumes, And coy reluctant Genius seldom comes - O let me seek the consecrated bow'rs, Where fairy-finger'd Fancy paints the flow'rs; Where young imagination's wings expand, And mystic Worlds arise at her command; Her glitt'ring stores, where feign'd Elysium gilds, And Paradise her golden treasure yields; Where sylvan Graces strike th' enchanting lyre, And Demi-Gods the Poet's brains inspire - There let me wander, pensive and alone, Estrang'd from Apathy, to Art unknown; There let my kindling Contemplations rise, 'Till thought takes wing, and Fancy mounts the skies. October 15. Bedford county. Yesterday we crossed Sidling-hill, and lodged at the food of Ray's Hill. These are only distinguished from Mountains, by the Name. The House in which we lodged is small, and has only one habitable Apartment. Two sorry Beds, an equal number of Chairs, and some Benches, with the addition of two Wheels, constituted its principal Furniture. All the Landlord's Family, which was not small, and ours, were promiscuously blended together. The day had rained, and the night was severely cold. To increase our Difficulties, three Families of Yankees arrived, after we had supped; and no Persuasion of ours could prevail on them to proceed farther. This Neighborhood is so mountainous, that few parts of it admit of Cultivation; but its Inhabitants are the robust Sons of Nature. The Roads are very bad; and the Juniata twines itself into so many Circumvolutions, that it rolls alternately on the right and left sides of the Road. The lofty Pines form a gloomy shade, and almost exclude the rays of the Sun. You may free yourself of all Apprehension, Madam, of my Pen taking an undue License here. You may take my word for it, that to exaggerate, in describing the terrific Wildness of this Country, would require the efforts of a Genius infinitely superior to mine. Great Nature, scorning ev'ry polish'd grace, In awful terror decks her frowning face; Assumes the ancient scepter of her throne, Bids Art retire, and reigns supreme alone. To-night we enjoy all the Comforts our situation will admit; among which, a clean Room and a cheering Fire are very conspicuous. But I drop the Pen, and acknowledge myself capable of not higher Employment, to-night, than that of the most indolent Animal. October 17. This is a rainy day, and the Roads are very bad. We travel slowly; my Sister's delicate Health not admitting of the violent Exercise, which, on this Road, is almost unavoidable. We are all much fatigued; and, the Team being overloaded, I am obliged to walk. Bedford is a dull-looking Place; the greater number of the Buildings being old, and out of Repair. I am no Connoisseur in these things; but am told, the Town is handsomely situated. To my taste, it is too closely surrounded with Mountains. Though I can admire the Sublime; yet I perceive that Sublimity loses much of its effect, when deprived of the advantages of Contrast. Give me the Scene, Where Mountains heave on high their naked brow, And gay luxuriant Vales extend below; Beneath the Hills, where nodding Forests bend, Let bounteous Ceres' golden gifts extend; Where copious Rivers lead their swelling train, Let rich Pomona clothe each smiling plain; Where Seasons vary, day succeeds to night, Contrasts still heighten - change renews delight. On of our Horses was foundered; and, for that reason, we were obliged to solicit Lodging at a little Cabbin. October 20. The Rains having swelled the Waters to an alarming degree, we were obliged to tarry at the Seat of a Gentleman, nearly related to the Family, for the space of two days. Yesterday, being the Sabbath, I went to hear a German Minister, in company with three young Ladies. When he had delivered his Discourse, in a Language which we did not understand, he was so polite as to preach to us in English. For his Condescension, I conceived it my Duty to tender him my respectful Acknowledgements; and we parted with as much Cordiality as if our Friendship had been cemented by the growing Intimacy of many years. 'There was a Frankness I him, that let you at once into his Soul, and showed you the Goodness of his Heart.' To-day we crossed the Allegany Mountains, which is not rocky and barren, like the others. There are Farms on the top, and the Land is rich. The ascent is so gradual, that Persons do not suspect the height they are elevated above the common surface of the Earth, until, almost at the summit, by a sudden turn in the Road, the Abyss below appears while the lofty summit of the Allegany towers majestically through the opening Clouds, and looks down on the rest of Creation, as sovereign Mistress of our Northern World. My Head grows light, as I contemplate the almost unfathomable Gulph below; and, with a heavy Heart, I view the dreadful Barrier that now separates my from my native home, and from you. October 21. Somerset county. Last night we slept on the top of the Allegany Mountain. Here we are accommodated with every Luxury that the most abject Epicure could desire, of the most benevolent Hospitality provide. Here is a large Company of Gentlemen; one of whom, like myself, seems to have contracted a passion for the Quill; and the rest of us, either from Respect to his Person, or Veneration for his Talents, became as silent as the Inhabitants of our Great Grandfather's Tombs. As soon as a private Parlor could be prepared, our Party retired; and some noisy Person, breaking the charm which held the rest in Silence, sung a loud and merry Song. His Example was followed by several others: They were, however, too humane to suffer their Hilarity to deprive us of the Blessings of uninterrupted Sleep; which, to a fatigued Traveller, is the most refined pleasure. As on the lonely mountain's top I slept, Celestial Guards their wakeful vigils kept; Around my couch their guardian Aegis spread, And balmy Sleep o'er all my senses shed. Having polished this Jewel of my brain, and leaving the Disciple of the Quill to do the same with his, we continued our route through the Mountains; and are arrived in safety at Stoneycreek. Here we have alighted; seated ourselves on a large Stone; and are attentively engaged in a Debate, on the height of the surrounding Pine-trees; which is really surprising. In vain do the rays of the Sun exert their Influence to penetrate their bushy tops. The Turpentine, mingling its Perfume with that of the Shrubs and spicy Underwood, fills all the Air with Fragrance. This, with the murmuring of the Water, the clank of the Mill, and the sighing of the Breeze among the Pines, conspire to render Stoneycreek the most melancholy, romantic spot I ever saw. Here let the lovelorn Wretch repair, To woo, in sights, his scornful Fair; On ev'ry tree imprint her Name, Or tell the passing winds his Flame. To-night we sleep at a private House; the Owner of which has blessed the Community with fifteen Sons, and one Daughter. I presume it is uncertain how many more such Tokens of Regard he may bestow on his Country; for, both his Wife and Daughter, a few days ago, have each added one to the number. October 23. Yesterday we crossed the Laurel-hill; which is very steep, and so rocky that no one would venture to ride over it. The rain and snow began to fall in great abundance; which, freezing, formed a crust on the rocks, and rendered them so slippery, that the utmost Caution was insufficient to prevent our receiving some severe Falls. The Cold was intense; Night came on, with pitchy darkness; and my Sister, unaccustomed to Difficulty, and totally exhausted with Fatigue, was obliged to sit down with her Children on a rock, where she wept. Our Situation admitted of no other alternative, than perish on the Hill, or make our way over it on foot; for our Wagon was far before. I perceived the necessity of making an extraordinary Exertion; and, taking one Child in my arms, while a young Man who belonged to us, and who had the Ague, took another, we carried them to the foot of the Hill; and afterwards conveyed the two younger Children in the same manner. Then my Sister, by the Assistance of a young Woman, almost as debilitated as herself, with much Difficulty, likewise made her way over. We were as wed as possible, and extremely cold. Considering our Situation, the Condition of the Mountain, the darkness of the night, and the inclemency of the weather, it is a Miracle to me, that we all arrived safe at the base of the Laurel-hill. The circumstance of my carrying two Children in my arms, more than half my own weight, upwards of two miles, is not so extraordinary as I first imagined; and I am now sensible, that the human system, either animal or rational, possesses Abilities far beyond the knowledge of their Owners, and such as they will by no means credit the existence of, until some unforeseen Occurrence gives them an opportunity of unfolding themselves: And I presume, that a Journey over these Mountains, especially with a Family, and in an inclement Season, affords a number of them a very ample theatre for exhibition. I have sometimes thought, that the human Breast resembles a public Inn, and is a receptacle for every way-faring Guest; where it often happens, that, when one has made his exit, another arrives, of quite an opposite Character: Yet, the respectful Proprietor of the hospitable House accommodates himself, with amazing facility, to the humor of each! Last night I had an opportunity of seeing the propriety of this Comparison: For, though our Feelings were of the most uncomfortable kind, having made our way over the Laurel-hill with a Difficulty and Perseverance that would, in Hannibal's days, have entitled our Names to Immortality; yet, as soon as we arrived at its base, and discovered a House illuminated by cheering Fires, we were the happiest Group West of the Allegany Mountains. As brightest Morn succeeds the darkest Night; So, oft, from Sorrow springs supreme Delight. When we arrived at the Inn, and found it full of Men of a Savage appearance, in an outlandish dress, our short interval of Joy was succeeded by Perplexity and Terror. However, there was no Alternative, and we entered the House; resigning ourselves, with the worst grace imaginable, to the Protection of that Spirit, who presides over the Fate of Travellers. One large, unfinished, and unfurnished Room, with a Kitchen of equal dimensions, composed the whole of this Building. Both the Apartments were enlivened by an exhilarating Fire; round which sat upwards of twenty Persons, engaged in different sense of the most turbulent Merriment. Our arrival produced a momentary Calm; and the cheerful readiness with which they made way for us, and procured us Seats around the Fire, envinced that they were not Strangers to the dictates of Humanity. Our new Companions were a set of Hunters; and, from their Conversation and Behavior, we were led to conclude , that Humanity was their cardinal Virtue. The Innkeeper had no spiritous Liquors; and they were therefore forced to practice Temperance. This exasperated them so highly, that they swore they would extirpate his Signpost. So, out they marched, in Battle Array, with purpose as sanguinary, against the Signpost, as was entertained by 'Columbia's heaven-born Band,' when they marched over the Mountains, some years since, upon a similar Expedition! And this Exploit was crowned with similar Success; for, upon arriving at the place of Action, there was no Signpost to be found! The Landlady declared it out of her power to prepare us any Supper; but proffered to supply us with every Article necessary to prepare Victuals for ourselves. Hunger is not silenced by Argument; and, being the most absolute Despot in existence, it obliged us to undertake the business of Cooking: And I can now experimentally assure you, that Exertion and Perseverance will often overcome the greatest Difficulties. After supping heartily, we patiently prepared to sleep; and, rolling ourselves in the Bedclothes, wet as they were, we slept sweetly: Nor did we awake until 'jocund Day stood tiptoe on the misty Mountain-top. This day rains incessantly; and the roads are almost impassable. It is, therefore, our Intention to take Shelter in the first decent House that will admit us. Ligonier is a very rich Valley, and thickly inhabited. Most of the Houses are tolerably good; but such of the Inhabitants, as came within the circle of my Observation, were rather more distinguished by their Curiosity, than by Urbanity of Hospitality. Perhaps my own uncomfortable Feelings may have exaggerated every unfavorable Appearance in them; for I candidly acknowledge, that my Temper generally paints the Frontispiece to every Scene I enter upon: And this saucy Limner may have thrown too much shade into the Countenance of the Landlady, into whose Protection pitying Heaven - who wifely blends the Cup of human Felicity with a wholesome degree of the Acid - has consigned us this evening. The storm renders it impossible for us to cross the Chestnut Ridge; and our Landlady, it seems, has conceived an Antipathy to 'Flitters'. She gave Intimation of this, by her contracted Brows and polite Sarcasms; but, finding that we had too long endured the rage of the Elements without, to suffer ourselves to be greatly incommoded by a Thunderstorm within, doors - her ready Genius, which I suspect to be of Tartarean origin, inspired the project of carrying the Fire out of the Room! The Feelings of every one remonstrated against the Inhumanity of the Proceedure; and, for my own part, I really found that my Philosophy was not a counterpose against my irascible Passions. My Brother being absent, I was under the Necessity of taking 'a great Gulp, and swallowing it.' However, respectfully following the supercilious Dame, I submissively requested her to order us some Wood, but she replied, 'that she would not trouble herself, for a pack of saucy Gentry, who would not have taken Shelter there, had the Storm permitted them to cross the Mountain.' She was not only inexorable, but an entire Stranger to the very outlines of Good-breeding: So, assuming an air of Contempt, I once more, very reluctantly indeed, practiced the Virtue of Resignation. My Brother returned in a short time, and procured some Wood. The exhilarating Blaze soon restored the drooping Spirits of our disconsolate Family. The Landlord, who had been all day absent, on his return, seemed determined to compensate for his Lady's Inattention, by devoting all his time and talents to our Amusement. But it unfortunately happened, that, among the number of his Pastimes, whistling was the most conspicuous; and he filled every pause in his Conversations with a gust of that irritating Music, to the great annoyance of my sensitive Nerves. Before he retired, I was obliged to confess to myself, that the most insufferable thing, which disagreeable People can engage in, is the attempt to be Amusing; that it requires as able Assistance, from Nature, to constitute a complete Fool, as to form a complete Wit; and that, without such Assistance, all Attempts, at either, are only too contemptible to be ridiculous. October 24. Westmoreland county. This morning is snowy, and very cold. I believe we must endure some of the real Ills of Life; and I am almost ashamed to say, we are tolerably unhappy. 'The Spirit of a Man can sustain his Infirmities;' but it frequently happens, that it is severely pressed under the load: And, at this moment, ours is bowed almost to Despondency. We purpose to cross the Chestnut Ridge, and take shelter wherever Providence may prepare a Place for our reception; for our half-perished Family cannot long endure the fury of the Storm. At this moment I am seated on the top of the Ridge, with two Children beside me; who are crying because of the Cold. I have wrapped my Cloak about them, and endeavored to sooth their Anguish. You will wonder at my Employment and Situation; but my reason for not changing them is, that, owing either to the Mismanagement of our Driver, or the Drivers of a number of Wagons on the opposite side of the Mountain, we have met them is such a Situation as to preclude the possibility of passing, without unloading the Wagons. With sympathetic Cares opprest, I on the dreary Mountain rest; Conflicting Storms of sleet and snow, Do round my head unpitying blow; While angry winds, with eager strife, Congeal the crimson tide of life; And raw condensing damps impart Their chilling influence to the heart: Far off from every social joy, I heave the deep despairing sigh; Chide unrelenting Fate severe, Recall the past, and drop a Tear. October 25. Had not the Storm suddenly abated yesterday, I believe you would not have been troubled with reading this Account; for, I am of opinion, we would have finished our Pilgrimage, through Life, a few paces from the summit of the Chestnut Ridge. To-day we enjoy the Comforts of a warm House, and excellent Fare. Here we remain stationary, 'Till scowling Storms lead off their vap'ry train, and genial Phoebus gilds the frozen scene. Do thou, celestial Muse, my Theme inspire, And touch my Pen with consecrated fire. Weary of toils, of pageantry, and show, And every passing vanity below, I woo thy genial soul-expanding smile, Life's complicated Evils to beguile; Tir'd of the Jest profane, the Drunkard's Song, And the rude Baccanalian's impious tongue - Retire with me, unknowing and unknown, To rear an air-spun Fabric of our own. The Landlord here is a confirmed Drunkard. His Wife (who seems well calculated to perform the Duties of her Station, and who has certainly, some years since, been very handsome) is the Object upon which he vents the Overflowings of his acrimonious Humor. I fear that, on some former occasion, he has taught her an ill Lesson against himself; for, in defiance of that reasonable Precept which enjoins, unconditionally, Love, Honor, and Obedience, on the part of the Female, she took a Whip and powerfully remonstrated with him on the Necessity of sometimes reverting to the Laws of Custom. This first act of Discipline, failing to produce the desired effect, was succeeded by a second, inflicted with a degree of Severity, which I wish the gentle Bosom of a Female Beauty may never again sanction. During this Operation I had the mortification to observe, that Modesty and Power are very jarring Attributes, in the Female Character. October 26. Last night was a jovial one, The Landlady had collected a number of persons to husk Corn; and, when their Business was finished, they devoted the night to Dancing, Singing, and other Exercises, the names of which my Ear did not communicate; though, in regard to their nature, it was very officious. Unfortunately, the Room immediately under my Bedchamber was the scene of this Bacchanal; and I frankly confess, that I wished them either less happy, or that their Happiness consisted in Enjoyments similar to mine. The Frolic was continued with great Spirit and Vigor; and the Landlady, her Daughter, and the Maid were the only Competitors for the prize of Agility. The old Gentleman, having outlived his Whipping and its Effects, swore and shouted in conjunction with his Guests. From the Noise and Discord, which the Ballroom exhibited, we began to fancy ourselves in the neighborhood of Pandemonium. A young Gentleman, who was also weatherbound, said we had there a Resemblance of the Customs and Employments of Demons! I acknowledged my Ignorance; but presumed that Mirth and good Cheer did not predominate among them. No Pilgrim, in the burning Desarts of Arabia, ever longed more intensely for a refreshing Fountain, than did I, to enjoy tranquil Happiness, in the sweet domestic Circle of mutual Friendship - A Friendship cemented by mutual Esteem, and refined and endeared by the invigorating Principle of mutual Love. So blended are my Ideas of Home and Happiness, that they are in a manner indissoluble: 'Man may, for Wealth or Glory, roam; But Woman must be blest at home.' Or, to borrow the more elegant Language of the judicious Thompson: 'Home is the resort Of Love, of Joy, of Peace, of Friendship; where, Supported and supporting, polish'd Friends And dear Relations mingle into Bliss.' October 27. Yesterday, about noon, the Sun began to exert his benign Influence upon the inclement skies and frozen earth. Bidding adieu to our unpleasant Lodging, we joyfully continued our Journey; and arrived at Greensburg about dark. Yesterday, being the day of a Public Review, the Town was full of riotous People. We therefore thought it advisable to pass onward to a Place of more quietness. Experience is certainly a wife and very successful Teacher; but her Lessons are generally taught too late, to be of present Utility to her Pupils. No sooner had we arrived at our intended Lodging, than she began her Lecture; and soon convinced us, that we had egregiously mistaken, when we counted on enjoying either Repose or Retirement there. I have already told you, it was the day of a general Review. Most of the Officers of the Battalions had met at this Place, and were refreshing themselves, after the Fatigues of the day, in all the various Exercises which the martial Spirit of Man could invent, or in a convivial Bottle inspire. Being all completely equipped, in the various Uniforms of their respective Corps, their Appearance was at once solemn, splendid, and ludicrous; for every Man, except the Landlord, was intoxicated. This Gentleman, who is of the first Character and Respectability, assured us that, except Noise and want of Sleep, we had no other Inconvenience to expect in his House; for, though it might appear paradoxical to assert it, every Man under his roof was a Gentleman and Man of Honor - who would sooner forfeit his Life, than his Pretensions to these sacred Characters. They occupied two large Rooms, in Dancing; and they were very expert at this Exercise. It was difficult to reconcile the different Sensations which their Dress and Employment created; yet, I must acknowledge, they were a Company of the most active and handsome Men I ever saw. Their Joviality increased, as the night advanced; and their Spirits, which seemed naturally haughty and martial, became extremely irritable. Being of different political Opinions, Argument soon became ardent. The field of Controversy became too warm to allow Reason (who never shuns Contrarieties) to preside; and her Office fell into the hands of those hot- headed Demagogues, the Passions - each of which, disdaining Subordination, dose in Arms, and alternately seized the reigns of Government. This produced such a medley of Anarchy and Confusion, that it would require a Pen much abler than mine to describe it. Those stupendous and intricate Affairs, which require the united Wisdom of the ablest Statesmen of our country, were here developed, discussed, and bandied from tongue to tongue, with the same degree of Judgment and Intelligence which is evinced by the Disciples of a certain modern political Commentator, in their Attempts to canvass the holy Scriptures. Conviction was not the Object in view. Every Man became an Orator; and to obtain Audience was the End most desired. The principal Excellence belonged not to him who spoke best, but to him who spoke loudest and most; and ever Man seemed to have the lungs of a Stentor. The more unintelligible they became, the more Vociferation had they recourse to; until, finding that their Voices produced no better effect, than if they were shouting to a Whirlwind, and that they became not only incomprehensible, but disregarded - suddenly dropping their Arguments - they seized their Swords, and appeared as terrific as Milton's Devils! And 'Confusion' became 'worse confounded.' We sat quiet spectators all night; and there was not a Room in the House unoccupied. When we saw the glitter of Swords, and heard the clashing of them over our heads, we began to entertain strong Apprehensions for our personal Safety. We could not wholly conceal our Fear; and one of the leading Officers, approaching the spot where we sat, begged of us to dismiss our Terrors, as he was himself form Lancaster county, and would shed the last drop of his heart's Blood to procure a proper Respect for every Individual from that place. This gracious Assurance did not, however, very much tend to dissipate our Alarm; until the Gentleman, in a voice which made the Dome re- echo, commanded 'Attention!' His command, to my utter Astonishment, was instantly obeyed. 'Confusion heard his Voice, and wild Uproar stood rul'd.' He then delivered a concise and very nervous Address to them, on the Indecorum of Fighting in the presence of Ladies, and the want of Gallantry betrayed in being the Cause of raising their Terrors. He concluded by reminding them, 'that Intoxication, though excusable in a Gentleman, under certain Circumstances, was by no means an Apology for a Breach of the Laws of Good-breeding; and the Respect which every Gentleman felt himself bound, in Honor and in Duty, to pay to the Female Sex.' I knew not why it was, that this Officer had so much Influence over his Companions; but certain it is, his Commands were as strictly adhered to, and held as inviolate, as the Laws of the Medes and Persians: And, for his own part, he carried his Politeness so far as to make Love to a Person of our Party; whom he entertained with a Song, which consisted of two elegant Lines and a -Hiccough. The Landlord, by a well-timed piece of Policy, concealed all their Swords; and in the heat of another Argument, when the Champions wished to support their Cause by resorting to them, they were not to be found, However, a more vulgar mode of convincing Antagonists was substituted - some Sculls being too thick for Reason to penetrate - and they turned out; boxed in pairs; and returned as peaceable and affectionate as Brothers. This was new to me; nor did I ever behold, at the same time, a more striking display of the Dignity and Depravity of fallen Human Nature. Sometime in the night, the Company dispersed, and I fell asleep: Nor did I awake until 8 o'clock in the morning. The House was then clear, and all was silent. At length our beautiful Hostess ad her two accomplished Daughters arose, and accommodated us with such Articles as we required. We had a comfortable Breakfast; and the Family treated us with the tenderest Hospitality. This is the Sabbath. We purpose only to travel to a place remote from Noise, and stay there the remainder of the day. We have held a Consultation on the Legality of traveling to-day; and it has been determined, that the measure embraces in itself two fundamental Principles, not congnizable by any Law. Octobber 28. The Gentleman, to whose roof we were indebted for Protection last night, appears to be a great Politician. He talks profoundly of States and Fleets, Revenues and Standing Armies; and with such pompous Phraseology, that I was convinced he could be nothing less than a Member of Congress. In the course of Conversation, I respectfully inquired, which Branch of Government had the Honor of claiming him as its Member; and, to my Astonishment, he answered, that he had nothing to do with Government, other than inspect its Measures; being only the humble Proprietor of an Inn. I was sorry to remark, that my Question entirely deranged the Gentleman's Chain of Reasoning, and even deprived us of the Benefit of his Conversation; for he abruptly left the Room. Happy, O America! favored Nation! How securely are thou fortified against foreign Invasion and homebred Faction; when even thy Retailers of Gin and Brandy possess Brains adequate to inspect, judge of, and determine the most intricate Affairs of Government - the very sound of which has disordered my intellectual Machine. There are public Races in Greensburg; and the Beaux are flocking into Town by dozens. In seems singular to me, that they are principally in Uniform, and have the air of Gentlemen. I am told that there is a Garrison at Pittsburg; and this may, in some degree, account for the military Appearance which the public Roads exhibits. This Country abounds with Hills, now covered with the finest Wheat; and jocund Plenty seems to spread her luxuriant train over the whole face of Nature. The generality of the People possess a kind of instinctive Politeness, which, were it divested of that popular ingredient, Curiosity, would render them quite agreeable, as they are already very intelligent. October 29. Allegany county. Last night we slept in a small Village, called M'Kee's Port, situated in the point formed by the junction of the Rivers Youghiogany and Monongahela. Although the Country around is laughing with Plenty; yet, in this Village, we could scarcely be supplied with the Necessaries of Life, at any price whatever. I can only account for this Scarcity of Provision, by the general Conduct of the Inhabitants; who, I think, appear to employ their Time after the Athenian manner, in the days of St. Paul. The Rivers Youghiogany and Monongahela are beautiful, and the Country through which they pass is exceedingly fertile. An air of Wildness pervades the Country; but it is the wild Exuberance of overgrown, untamed Nature. The Water of the Monongahela is remarkably clear, and glides along its Channel almost imperceptibly; and that of the Youghiogany is somewhat green, and rather more rapid. They tenaciously preserve there Distinctions, as far as I had an opportunity of observing them, after their Confluence. October 30. Washington county. Last night we could find no Inn, at a suitable time; and were necessitated to ask Lodging at a private House. This was immediately granted; and we were received with an air of Cordiality that surprised me. I found that this Kindness was the genuine Expression of benevolent Hearts; who made it their Duty and Delight to render unto others as they, in like Circumstances, would wish to receive - a Pleasure which neither Art nor Apathy has tempted them to forego. But, to my Shame I confess it, I was so dispirited with Fatigue, that the Enjoyment of primeval Hospitality, and the Prospect of arriving at home the ensuing day, could afford me no Pleasure. My Spleen increased to such a degree, as to form a kind of impenetrable Gloom around me. Thus encased, like the Tortoise, every Attempt to draw me from my Fortification served only to increase its strength. Ye Spirits of Cheerfulness and Content, descend from your celestial Abode, and enlighten, strengthen, and warm my heard by your exhilarating Influence: Guard it from the Poison of Guilt, and the pressure of Despondency; not suffer it to become absorbed in the narrow limits of its own pitiful Concerns; which will dry up all the sympathetic sluices of the Soul, unfit it for every Duty of Life, render me unamiable and unthankful, and finally make Existence a Curse. This County, like Westmoreland, is hilly and luxuriant. 'Nature here Wantons, as in her prime, and plays at will Her virgin Fancies;' and yields her Increase almost spontaneously. The Inhabitants appear to be a sober, rational, and even a courteous People; who prefer Convenience to Parade; and partake those Blessings, which bounteous Providence allots them, without Ambition, Envy, or Stupidity: And, from what Observations I can make, as I pass, I presume that the Goddess Contentment has chosen Washington county for her favorite Residence. There is a Seminary of Learning in the Town of Canonsburg, which is in great Repute; and this being the time of a commencement, the Streets are crouded, and all is Life and Activity. This spot, a few years ago, was the unhallowed Haunt of Savages; the Scene of Desolation, Bloodshed, and Horror! Now, where fierce Monsters rent their trembling prey, And yelling Savages, more fierce than they, With blazing Victims dimn'd the dazzling Noon, And midnight carnage shock'd the trembling Moon; Where Indian arrows drank the vital breath, And mangled Captives invocated Death; Where the fell Tomahawk, and Scalping-knife, Dispatch'd the tender Husband and the Wife; Where Shudd'ring Parents, agonizing stood, Besmear'd with their own Offspring's brains and blood; For Rites acurs'd th' unhallow'd Altar pil'd, On which their unsuspecting Infants smil'd; Tortur'd, beheld 'in all the Death of Woe,' This impious Off'ring to the Shades below! Where purple Chief's rejoic'd in Feasts of Blood, Strangers to Natures's Ties, and Nature's God - Now the bright Son's kind healing wing's expand, And holy Temples consecrated stand; Now shines the glorious Gospel from above, And all is Peace, and Harmony, and Love. This is a thickly settled Country, in which there are many Churches erected; Seminaries of Education founded, and all the Arts of Civilization introduced. Luxury, and its comitant Diseases, are almost unknown here. Health, Pease, and Plenty lead in, and accompany the hours; which seem principally devoted to the simple Enjoyments of artless Innocence. Few are immensely rich: None are miserably poor. It is a popular Maxim here, that Principles, not Talents or Fortune, settle the scale of Respectability. Two things are particularly unfavorable to this Country. Its principal Trade being to Neworleans, the great Distance (together with the Influence of those Southern Climes on Northern Constitutions) renders a Voyage thither arduous, precarious, and expensive. The other Difficulty arises from the Failure of the Western Waters on the Fall Season. At this time, the largest Creeks are but standing Shallows; and no Mill can grind the smallest quantity of Grain. To remedy this Inconvenience, the People have substituted a kind of Mills, turned by Horses; which are of great Utility, and make Flour little inferior to that ground by Water. October 31. Not being able to reach home yesterday, as was intended, we were once more obliged to solicit Lodging from a private Gentleman. My Spirits are sunk so low, that I may be said to exist, rather than live. The sweet Prospect of arriving at home to-day, can scarcely exhilarate the slowly- creeping Tide that languishes in my Veins, or give it a sufficient Elasticity to enable me to make the necessary Exertions for obtaining this desirable end. I will sit down and moralize myself into Temper; as I believe no temper to be so refractory as not to be perfectly mollified; provided the means adapted for that purpose be judiciously selected. How do both Nature and Experience assist Revelation in demonstrating the Immortality of the Soul, by ever placing our principal Happiness in the prospect of some future Enjoyment - which we, like minor Heirs, subsist upon by Anticipation! How then should we admire the wisdom of our heavenly Father, in barely granting what is sufficient for our present Demands - that we may duly appreciate that Inheritance which will indubitably be ours, if we squander it not away by a most criminal Prodigality. We took a wrong direction, and rambled six miles out of our way: But as I have already sufficiently fatigued you with a long Story, I shall take a Seat on the trunk of a tree - while the Men are cutting a Road to the House - and endeavor to describe the spot, of which I am now to consider myself an Inhabitant. Great Nature, in her loose array, Derives from Art no foreign aid; The lofty Oak, the spreading Bay, With 'shade still deep'ning into shade.' The Moss, the Ivy, and the Vine Increase the awful gloom profound; Whilst Hills and lonely Wilds combine To shed fantastic Terrors round! We have had no Dinner to-day; and our stock of Pleasure is not augmented by anticipations with regard to Supper: For, I assure you, we do not find the Western Air more nutrimental than that we formerly breathed in Donegal; and, though we enjoy a plentiful share of this wholesome Element - for our Cottage has neither Window-glass, Plaister, nor Roof - I never felt a better Appetite for a solid Supper in my Life. I find, Madam, that, in our pursuit of Happiness, we too often mistake the Shadow for the Substance; and are shamefully misled by the same restless Curiosity which, I believe, aided the Deception practiced upon our credulous Mother Eve; and which still continues to prey upon human Bliss: Nor is it until after we have received some severe Lectures, in the School of Experience, that we are brought to acknowledge this great Truth, that, beneath the Sun, 'all is Vanity.' I have the Honor to subscribe myself, Madam, your most obedient, Faithful, and very humble Servant. SALLY HASTINGS