HISTORY: “Valley of the Conemaugh” by Thomas J. Chapman, 1865 Contributed for use in the USGenWeb Archives by Diann Olsen , September, 2008 Copyright 2008 All rights reserved. http://http://www.usgwarchives.net/pa/copyright.htm http://www.usgwarchives.net/pa/cambria/ _______________________________________________ THE VALLEY OF THE CONEMAUGH. BY THOMAS J. CHAPMAN. ALTOONA, PA.: McCRUM & DERN, PRINTERS. 1865. --------------------------------------------------------------------- CHAPTER VII. OTHER TOWNS AND VILLAGES. CAMBRIA COUNTY.* The villages of Cambria county may be divided into two classes -- those which lie in the north of the county, and are of spontaneous growth, and those which lie in the south of the county, and have sprung up in consequence of the different lines of public improvements. The villages in the north of the county are Ebensburg, Carrolltown, Loretto, St. Augustine, Chess Springs, Munster, Belsano, and Plottsville. Ebensburg has been already described. Carrolltown is eight miles north of Ebensburg, and is connected with it by a plank road. It is located on an eminence. The original Carrolltown lies on the south side of the hill; but the part of the village more lately built extends over the crest of the hill, down the northern slope into the valley beyond. It is about half a mile in length. The Catholic ----- *For this description of the towns and villages in Cambria county, I am indebted to my excellent friend. S. B. McCormick. Esq., late County Superintendent of Cambria county. --------------------------------------------------------------------- THE CONEMAUGH. 131 church is a large brick building, situated on the highest ground in the village, and about midway between the extreme ends. The public school- house is similarly located, and stands on the opposite side of the street from the church. It contains a thriving population, and is surrounded by a productive country and thrifty farmers. Loretto is situated about five miles east of Ebensburg, on a public road leading from Cresson to Carrolltown. It is located on the southern slope of a hill, and contains quite a number of inhabitants. The Sisters of Charity have a female school in operation in this place, and the Franciscan Brothers have a college with ample grounds attached, and which is largely attended, built in close proximity to the village. There is also a very large brick Catholic church in this village. Chess Springs lies eight miles northeast of Loretto, on a public road leading from Loretto to White township. It. is built on elevated ground which slightly slopes westwardly, and contains some fifty dwellings. Beautiful farms surround the place, and it is healthful, and supplied with excellent water. There is a steam saw mill in the vicinity. This village might be called the Buenos Ayres of Cambria county. --------------------------------------------------------------------- 132 THE HISTORY OF St. Augustine is three miles northeast of Chess Springs, situated on the same public road. The ridge which runs along between the valleys near the place, is called the Loop. On that ridge there is at one place a slight depression of the surface, and in this depression, there are cross roads, at which the village is built. There is a frame Catholic church, and a public school-house in the place. Munster is the next town in size of the northern class, and is situated four miles east of Ebensburg on the turnpike road. The Ebensburg and Cresson railroad runs through the place. It is built on a level plot of ground, and is surrounded by a great number of productive farms. It contains a small population, but no public buildings. Belsano is located about eight miles southwest of Ebensburg, on the Clay Pike, leading to Indiana borough. It is a small place, in an unproductive section of country, and is now almost isolated from the business world. Plottsville lies eight miles north of Carrolltown, on the road leading to the Cherry Tree, a small town in Indiana county. It is a small village of little importance. The towns in the southern portion of the county are Johnstown and surrounding bor- --------------------------------------------------------------------- THE CONEMAUGH. 133 oughs, Summerhill, Wilmore, Foot-of-Four, Summit, Cresson, Gallitzin, Perkinsville, Scalp Level, Geistown, and Parkstown. Of these Summerhill, Wilmore, Foot-of-Four, and Summitville are relics of the Allegheny Portage Railroad, which in its time ran through them, and which gave origin to their existence. Johnstown and its suburbs have been already described. Summerhill, which should have been termed Winter Hollow, is located in a narrow valley between hills through which the Portage Railroad ran. The Pennsylvania Railroad runs close by the old village, and sustains its vitality. It contains two or three hundred inhabi- tants. Wilmore is similarly situated, a few miles east of Summerhill. The Pennsylvania Railroad passes near the place. It was once a brisk village, but is now decaying rapidly. There are many beautiful and productive farms in the vicinity. Foot-of-Four was built at the foot of plane No. 4, on the Portage Railroad. The Pennsylvania Railroad runs close by this village; nevertheless, it is in a state of dilapidation. The town is called Foot-of-Four, the station Lilly's Station, and the Post Office Hemlock. --------------------------------------------------------------------- 134 THE HISTORY OF Summitville was built on the summit of the mountain, at the head of the planes on the Portage Railroad. It is now a decayed village, although there is a fine Catholic church in the place. It is half a mile from Cresson, on the Pennsylvania Railroad. Cresson, on the Pennsylvania Railroad, is four miles east of the Foot-of-Four, and is a watering place, much frequented in the summer months by visitors from the cities. Otherwise it is an unimportant place. Gallitzin is situated at the east end of the tunnel on the Pennsylvania Railroad, and also comprises Tunnel Hill, on the top of the mountain above said tunnel. It lies partly in Blair county. It is a growing place. Perkinsville is a small village on the Canal three miles west of Johnstown. Scalp-Level and Geistown are small villages in Richland township, towards Somerset county. Parkstown is a small place on the old Frankstown road, about two miles east of John stown. Benscreek. -- This is a small village surrounding a furnace of the same name, situated about three miles south of Johnstown, on the Somerset road. A portion of the village is in Cambria and a portion in Somerset county. --------------------------------------------------------------------- THE CONEMAUGH. 135 The furnace, which has been in operation for many years, is not now in blast; and, as a consequence, the population is somewhat thinned out. It was once a thriving settlement. Mill Creek. -- This is another village, similar in its origin and surroundings to Benscreek, situated five miles southeast of Johnstown, at the base of the Laurel Hill, and is connected with Benscreek by a tram railroad, five miles in length. The furnace is not at present in blast, and the inhabitants are not numerous, nor in a prosperous condition. Cambria Furnace.-About five miles north west of Johnstown, and near one mile from the Conemaugh river, northward, there is a furnace located, near the base of Laurel Hill, with the foregoing name and title, surrounded by a smart little village. Like the other two furnaces, it is not now in operation. All these furnaces formerly belonged to Shoenberger & Co., and are now, with the lands adjoining, the property of the Cambria Iron Company. SOMERSET COUNTY. Davidsville is a small village on the plank road leading from Johnstown to Stoystown. It is much frequented in the sleighing season --------------------------------------------------------------------- 136 THE HISTORY OF by gay companies of young folks from the former place, who believe that a good supper and a merry dance repay them for the journey of sixteen miles there and back. Stoystown lies on the same road, ten mils beyond Davidsville. This is an old village. It was laid out by an old Revolutionary soldier named Stoy. We have already spoken of the ruins of a house here visible at a late period, which was said to have been built in 1758. -- This town was incorporated as a borough in 1819. It is a flourishing town, and has a population of several hundreds. Six miles from Stoystown on the same road is Snydersville, a small town containing a post office, a tannery, and several houses. Twelve miles from Johnstown, on the turnpike leading to Somerset we come to Forwardstown. This is a small village. Six miles from Forwardstown is Jennerville, on the same road. It contains a store, a tavern, and so forth. Sipesville is a small town on the same road, four miles from Jennerville. It contains a couple of stores, a tavern, and so on. Jenner Cross Roads is a well known point at the crossing of the Somerset and the Pittsburg turnpikes, a couple of miles from Jennerville. --------------------------------------------------------------------- THE CONEMAUGH. 137 WESTMORELAND COUNTY. Conemaugh Furnace lies on the Pennsylvania Railroad seven miles west of Johnstown. A furnace was built here in 1839 or 1840, by Messrs. McGill, Foster & White. It was kept in operations for some time, but has been abandoned for many years. The stack alone remains to indicate that it ever had an existence. A number of people still live here in the houses that were put up for the accommodation of the furnace hands. This place lies right in the gorge of the Laurel Hill, upon one of the most beautiful stretches of water along this entire river. The scenery around is of the wildest and most romantic description. Nineveh Station lies two miles west of Conemaugh furnace. Here are a water-station, a store, and several very comfortable residences. Large quantities of bark, shook, staves, and so forth, are shipped from this point. New Florence is six miles west of Nineveh station. This is a pleasant and thriving town, surrounded by a rich, productive country. It was laid out about the year 1851 or 1852. In this village are several stores, a hotel, a couple --------------------------------------------------------------------- 138 THE HISTORY OF of churches, a school house, and a number of fine residences. The people of New Florence are distinguished for their intelligence, respectability, and morality. Before the war a fine classical school was located in this town. Laurel Hill furnace, an exploded enterprise, is situated at the foot of the Laurel Hill, at the distance of a mile or two from this town. Three miles west of New Florence is Lockport. This is a small village lying on the canal and the railroad. A beautiful stone aqueduct of five arches here crosses the river. In this village are a wood and water station, a couple of stores, school house, and establishments for the manufacture of fire brick. There are also the remains of an old furnace. About three miles from Lockport in a southerly direction is a small hamlet known as Covodesville. It is the property of the Hon. John Covode, the distinguished politician, who has his home here. This village contains a large woolen factory, saw mill, school house, and so forth. Bolivar lies one mile west of Lockport. In this village are extensive fire-brick establishments. A foot-bridge crosses the Conemaugh, and a neat stone aqueduct a small stream that flows into the river at this place from the southward. --------------------------------------------------------------------- THE CONEMAUGH. 139 Proceeding along the railroad five miles further, we come to the Blairsville Intersection, where the branch railroad leading to Blairsville and Indiana intersects the main road. Here are a station, telegraph office, post office, a hotel, and some five or six dwelling houses. In going from Bolivar to the Blairsville Intersection, we pass through the Chestnut Ridge by a valley apparently cut by the river for its own accommodation. The scenery along here is exceedingly wild and picturesque. Coming down from the southward, and splitting the Ridge at about right angles with the river valley, is a deep gorge known as the Pack Saddle. A high "dump" crosses this gorge at its mouth, upon which the track of the railroad is laid. Immediately opposite to the mouth of the Pack Saddle is the abrupt termination of a lofty mountain range that comes down from the north. The work of constructing the railroad through the Chestnut Ridge was a difficult enterprise, and the classic region of the Pack Saddle was the scene of many a hard fought battle between the “Corkonians" and “Far-downers," whom the work had brought together. Four miles west of the Intersection we come to Hillside. This is important as a wood and --------------------------------------------------------------------- 140 THE HISTORY OF water station on the railroad. It contains a store, a large steam tannery, and several dwelling houses. About two miles from Hillside, at the base of the Chestnut Ridge, is a remarkable cavern known as the Bear Cave. It was explored more than thirty years ago. It consists of one main entrance, which, at a short distance from the mouth, branches off into innumerable and hitherto interminable ramifications, and these again into countless other branches, forming, on the whole, a labyrinth that would have puzzled the brain of Theseus himself. A few years ago, we formed one of a party of five that visited this subterranean wonder. We went provided with light and with a large ball of strong twine. Fastening one end of this twine near the mouth of the cavern, we continued to unroll the ball as we proceeded, thus having a certain clue to find our way back. On our return, we wound up the twine as we came along, and, by measuring the string afterward, we were able to tell the distance we had penetrated. We found it to be over five hundred paces, or more than a quarter of a mile! After we had gone this distance, the end of the passage seemed as far off as ever. --------------------------------------------------------------------- THE CONEMAUGH. 141 The reader must not imagine this cavern to resemble in any respect the famous Mammoth Cave, in Kentucky. This, so far as it has ever been explored, is only a long, narrow, sinuous passage, or rather a system of such passages; sometimes, it is true, expanding into little chambers hung with lack-lustre stalactites; but, for the greater part of the way, only the narrow passage we have described, as though an earthquake had partly rent the mountain in twain. We remember walking along the crumbling edge of a precipice, steadying ourselves by the walls, while below us was an abyss so deep, so dark, so profound that it seemed to be bottomless. A single false step here would send the thoughtless adventurer down into depths immeasurable. So contracted is this passage in some places that the explorer is obliged to make his way on his hands. and knees, nay, he sometimes, from his longitudinal posture, would seem to be a sharer in the sentence of the serpent, and lucky is he if he doesn't have to eat dirt on the way. Visitors to this cavern should enter it only in dry weather. The channel of a little mountain stream passes through it. This in wet weather of course becomes swollen, and must nearly, if not quite, stop up the passage --------------------------------------------------------------------- 142 THE HISTORY OF through this labyrinth. The fate of one who, should become thus immured may be easily imagined. The narrow escape from such a fate which we ourself made on that occasion, has made a lasting impression on our mind. There have been many stories circulated in that vicinity about spacious apartments, magnificent with natural decorations, of beautiful altars, and columns, and other wonderful formations, that have been discovered in this cavern; but upon our visit we saw nothing of the kind -- nothing in the main but a long, tortuous maze with blackened walls and uneven floors; dark, yawning chasms, that seemed to have no bottom; and gloomy side-passages into which if one should wander he might never return. Derry Station, an important point on the Pennsylvania Railroad, lies four miles west of Hillside. This place is rapidly improving, and promises at an early day to be a town of no mean pretensions. A number of fine houses have been recently put up, and others are in course of building. A road to Ligonier and other towns in the Ligonier Valley, passes through this place. At the distance of two or three miles from Derry station, there is a prominent peak of the Chestnut Ridge, known --------------------------------------------------------------------- THE CONEMAUGH. 143 as Duncan's Knob. This mountain range being the westernmost outlier of the Alleghanies, furnishes from its exposed hights many fine and extensive prospects. Of all these exposed points, Duncan's Knob perhaps affords the most expansive view. We visited it some years ago. We were able to see plainly the towns of Jacksonville and Indiana, and all the intervening and surrounding country. Some six or eight towns and villages were distinctly visible. And yet the distance from where we stood to the town of Indiana, which must be in the neighborhood of twenty-five miles, compared with the distance which we could see beyond that town, seemed to us to bear about the same ratio that an inch bears to a foot-rule. The broad expanse of hill and dale, meadow and woodland, stretched away to the north and west until it gradually blended in an indistinct haze with the far-off horizon. A correct idea of the extent and magnificence of our globe can only be obtained by viewing it from such a standpoint as this. And standing on that rugged peak, with this vast amphitheater at our feet, we thought of the beautiful lines of Goldsmith: "E'en now, where Alpine solitudes ascend, I sit me down a pensive hour to spend; And placed on high, above the storm's career, Look downward where a hundred realms appear." --------------------------------------------------------------------- 144 THE HISTORY OF New Derry, an old village in spite of its name, is situated a short distance north of Derry station. It is a pleasant little town lying in the midst of a rich farming district, and contains several churches, shops, stores, and so on. St. Clair lies on the railroad a couple of miles west of Derry station. It is an unimportant railroad station. Latrobe is three miles west of St. Clair. It lies on both sides of the railroad, upon a broad, level loop of land formed by a bend in the Loyalhanna. This is an important, thriving town. It was laid out about the year 1851, and has already grown to be a town of considerable size. It contains several fine churches and hotels, two or three large flouring mills, a car manufactory, and a number of stores, shops, and so forth. The surrounding country is highly fertile, and is well cultivated. This village is yet in its infancy, and will doubtless soon become one of our most flourishing inland towns. Youngstown is situated on the turnpike about a mile south of Latrobe. It is a country village of very modest pretensions. It contains several churches, stores, hotels, and so forth. Contiguous to the village are two large establishments for the education of youth. These --------------------------------------------------------------------- THE CONEMAUGH. 145 belong to the Roman Catholic church, and are known, the one as St. Vincent's, and the other as St. Xavier's: the latter for the education of young ladies, and the former for young gentlemen. These institutions are well patronized, well conducted, and stand high in the estimation of the church to which they belong. Ligonier is on the same turnpike, about ten miles east of Youngstown. We have already mentioned that here was a stronghold during the Indian troubles of the last century. At the time of Forbes' expedition it was known as Loyalhanna. It may be remembered that after the defeat of Major Grant at Fort Pitt, the enemy attacked Colonel Boquet in his camp at Loyalhanna, but were driven off with loss. Shortly after this we find that the place was known as Fort Ligonier. An attack was also made upon this fort in 1763, but as unsuccessfully as before. The site of the old fort is still remembered, and numerous bullets, and other relics of the battle-field, have been found in the neighborhood. Ligonier is a pleasant village, and finely located. The surrounding country, which is known as Ligonier valley, is one of the most beautiful and productive districts in western Pennsylvania. The citizens of Ligonier are a quiet, unambitious, in- --------------------------------------------------------------------- 146 THE HISTORY OF telligent people, and their town is one of the most pleasant villages to be found. Oak Grove and Waterford are two small villages lying on the road leading from Ligonier to Johnstown, and at the distances respectively of three miles and five miles from the former. In the neighborhood is a furnace. Laughlinstown is a small place three miles east of Ligonier, and just at the foot of the Laurel Hill. Like all turnpike towns, it is going to decay. Modern improvements have supplanted in a great measure the turnpikes and canals of a former era, and the old-fashioned roadside villages are finding themselves left "out in the cold." In the vicinity of Laughlinstown are two or three furnaces that, we believe, are now entirely abandoned. Bairdstowwn lies on the Conemaugh, just opposite Blairsville, with which it is connected by a bridge. The turnpike passes through it, and also the obsolete Pennsylvania Canal. This town lies chiefly along the face of a hill called Baird's Hill. When the canal was in all its glory, Bairdstown contained several extensive boat-yards. The sides of the canal were covered with large warehouses, stables, and so forth, some of which have since disappeared, while the rest have fallen into disuse. There --------------------------------------------------------------------- THE CONEMAUGH. 147 is but little business now carried on in the town. Livermore is a small village on the canal, about six miles below Bairdstown. The Western Pennsylvania Railroad now passes through it, which will preserve it from absolute decay. New Alexandria, or, as it is more frequently called, Dennisontown, is on the old northern turnpike, about eight miles west of Blairsville. It is an incorporated town, and has a population of three or four thousand inhabitants. It is not now as thriving as when the turnpike was in more general use. Fairfield lies four miles south of New Florence, on a public road leading from the latter place to Ligonier. It contains two churches, a school house, several stores, a couple of hotels, and other public places of business. In the churchyard lie the remains of several of the early pioneers of this section of country, who were killed by the Indians. INDIANA COUNTY. Nineveh is an old, decayed village, on the canal, about one mile north of Nineveh station. It contains a saw mill, tavern, and a few dwelling houses, --------------------------------------------------------------------- 148 THE HISTORY OF Centerville is also on the canal, lying immediately opposite New Florence. A bridge across the Conemaugh connects the two villages. Centerville is an old town, and was formerly in a more prosperous condition than at present. An old Indian village is said to have stood near where Centerville now stands. This is believed to have been called Kiskemeneco, and was visited by Post and his party in November, 1758. At three o'clock of the same day on which they passed through Kick- enapawling, they came to Kiskemeneco, which Post describes as "an old Indian town, a rich bottom, well timbered, good fine grass, well watered, and lays waste since the war began." It was within half-a- day's ride of Kickenapawling, and from the name was evidently situated somewhere upon the Kiskiminetas or Conemaugh river. Fillmore, on the Conemaugh, just opposite to Livermore, is a small village. A bridge connects the two places. Saltsburg lies at the confluence of the Conemaugh and Loyalhanna. It is about twelve miles from Blairsville. It derives its name from the numerous salt works in its vicinity. The discovery of salt at this place has been already described. This was one of the earliest --------------------------------------------------------------------- THE CONEMAUGH. 149 permanent settlements in the county, as there were cabins standing here as early as 1800. Saltsburg is a thriving little town. The Pennsylvania canal and the western Pennsylvania Railroad pass through it. It contains number of stores, hotels, shops, and so forth. Clarksburg is on the Black Legs creek, five miles northeast of Saltsburg. It contains two churches, several stores, a school house, tannery, a grist mill, a saw mill, a tavern, and other buildings. Elder's Ridge is four miles north-west of Saltsburg, on the road leading from Saltsburg to Elderton, in Armstrong county. It is a small village, and only important as being the seat of a first class Presbyterian academy, which has long been conducted by the Rev. Alex. Donaldson, D. D., a gentleman of fine abilities and of eminent success in his profession. Lewisville is five miles east of Clarksburg, on the road going from Clarksburg to Blairsville. It is a small town. It contains a church, store, poet office, tannery, and other buildings. Jacksonville lies on the road leading from Saltsburg to Indiana, and is ten miles from the latter town. It also contains a fine academy, and is a thriving little place. --------------------------------------------------------------------- 150 THE HISTORY OF Homer is a smart village on the Indiana Branch railroad, about six miles from Indiana. It was laid out about the year 1855, by the late William Wilson, Esq. It contains a church, school house, several stores, a hotel, grist mill, a large steam saw mill, a tannery, and other improvements. The place is improving rapidly, and seems destined to become an important town. Mechanicsburg is a pleasant, prosperous village on the road leading from Homer to Strongstown, six miles from Homer. It contains an academy, several stores, hotels, and so forth. New Washington is on the northern turnpike two miles west of Armagh. It contains a tavern, store, and so forth. Armagh is an old village on the turnpike, about fourteen miles east of Blairsville, and two miles from Nineveh station. It lies near the base of the Laurel Hill on the western side. Its location is elevated and healthful, and the surrounding country is beautiful and fertile. The village contains a church, store, hotel, shook-shop, and other buildings. It is not so prosperous now as when the turnpike was the great highway from the east to the west. The Indiana Iron Works are situated in a --------------------------------------------------------------------- THE CONEMAUGH. 151 deep valley about two miles from Conemaugh furnace. A furnace was built here by Henry Noble, about the year 1837. Having passed into the hands of Elias Baker, about the year 1848 it was torn down, and a new furnace built. A forge was built close by a short time afterward. It has gone to decay. The furnace is at present in successful operation. A bucket factory formerly stood on the site of these works. It was built about the year 1828, and was owned by Hart & Thompson. The Indiana Iron Works are at present better known as Baker's furnace. Blacklick Furnace was built in 1844, by David Stewart. It is situated three miles from Armagh, on a public road leading from the Indiana Iron Works to Strongstown. It is not now in operation. In this neighborhood are two other abandoned enterprises of the same kind: -- Buena Vista Furnace and Eliza Furnace. The first of these is on the road leading from Armagh to Indiana, about two miles north of the former town. It was built by Henry M'Clelland about the year 1847. Eliza Furnace was built by David Ritter, about the same time. It was located near the junction of the north and south forks of the Blacklick, about six miles east of Armagh.