Area History: Watson's Annals of Philadelphia And Pennsylvania, 1857 Contributed for use in USGenWeb Archives by EVC. USGENWEB NOTICE: Printing this file by non-commercial individuals and libraries is encouraged, as long as all notices and submitter information is included. Any other use, including copying files to other sites requires permission from the submitters PRIOR to uploading to any other sites. We encourage links to the state and county table of contents. ____________________________________________________________ TRANSCRIBED FROM: WATSON'S ANNALS of PHILADELPHIA and PENNSYLVANIA Subtitled: A COLLECTION OF MEMOIRS, ANECDOTES, AND INCIDENTS of the CITY AND ITS INHABITANTS and of the EARLIEST SETTLEMENTS OF THE INLAND PART OF PENNSYLVANIA from THE DAYS OF THE FOUNDERS Intended to Preserve the Recollections of Olden Time, and to Exhibit Society in its Changes of Manners and Customs, and the City and Country in their Local Changes and Improvements by John F. Watson Published in 1857, Written circa 1830-1850 vol. I page 35 - 41 Chapter 2. THE PRIMITIVE SETTLEMENT AND ITS INCIDENTS " I trace my tale To the dim point where records fail." It should be grateful to a contemplative and feeling mind, especially to a descendant to the pilgrim settlers of Philadelphia, to revive in the imagination such picturesque facts and scenic pictures, as may give to the mind's eye the striking incidents of that eventful period. We need not resort to fiction " to adorn our moral or to point our tale; " for, facts, scattered throughout the following pages, will amply sustain the primal scene herein attempted. We are to transport the fancy back to the original site of Coaquanock, --- so called from its border line, along the margin of the river bank, of lofty spruce pines, rivalling in majesty the adjacent common wood-land foliage of oaks and underbrush ; --- thus giving to the place a peculiarity and rarity, even in the eyes of the untutored savage, which lovers of the marvellous might now regard as something propitious.* There we must see the busy landing of families from the anchored barks, and witness their chastened joy at once more feeling their conscious tread on terra `firma', --- then a gravelly strand basing the front of the precipitious river bank. There their pious minds felt solemn emotions of gratitude and praise to Him, beneath whose eye their voyage had sped --- their hearts tendered, they knelt, and praised, and prayed. ** * The Indians called it Quequenaku, which means, the " grove of tall pines." This for sake of euphony, we have contracted into Coaquanock. Such pines among other forest trees is an admitted rarity. ** The wife of the Governor, Thomas Lloyd, as soon as she landed, knelt down, and earnestly prayed the blessings of heaven on the future colony. The beholder might then innocently smile to see the unskilled efforts of men, women, and children, scrambling up the acclivity to attain the level of the elevated platform. The river banks then, like the woody banks at "the Bake-house," --- now near Poquesink creek --- "All shagg'd with wood, Where twisted roots, in many a fold, Through moss, disputed room for hold." Such impediments overcome, they gather beneath the dark ever-greens; --- there they meet the welcome salutations of the red natives, --- both in mutual wonder stand, and ruminate, and gaze. Then the exploring eye, ranging on objects all around, beholds behind them interminable woods and hanging grape vines, &c., --- "a boundless contiguity of shade," --- and below them, on the limpid stream, their own ships amid the paddling canoes of the Indians. All has the air of novelty and surprise. Their spirits feel many stirring emotions: --- joy for safe arrival, --- a lively sense of inhaling a new and genial air, so necessary after the restrictions and sickness of sea life; --- even a momentary sadness might agitate the bosom from the sense that they were devoid of all the wanted accomodations and comforts to former home and civilization; but the prevalent sense of escape from "woeful Europe", was an antidote, always at hand, to repress any murmurings. Sustained by a predetermined courage to subdue all difficulties, and animated by future hopes of domestic comforts and of social prosperity and happiness, all join in a ready resolution to give mutual aid to every enterprise for individual or general benefits. Huts and caves are promptly resolved on as of paramount consideration. To this object, trees and underwood must be levelled. At the moment of such a beginning, we can readily imagine that some pious leader, like a christian David, at the first settlement of his christian community, strikes his axe into the first tree, exclaiming, "Here, hath the sparrow found a house and the swallow a nest for himself, even thine altars, O Lord God of Hosts !" Here in the "sweet quiet", freed from the hurries and perplexities of "woeful Europe," as feelingly expressed by the founder, they could not but consider themselves escaped from persecution, --- no longer like their fathers, "Vex'd from age to age, By blatant bigotry's insensate rage." Preliminaries thus settled, the men and boys choose out their several grounds for their temporary hut or cabin, called a cave. While some dig into the earth about three feet at the verge of the river bank, others apply the axe to clear away the underwood or infall trees, whose limbs and foliage may supply sides and roofs to their humble dwellings. In other cases, some dug sods, and of them formed the sides of their huts. To these, chimnies (sic) of grass and kneaded clay were set up, --- and lo ! their rude house was finished ! Meanwhile, the women, equally busy in their sphere, had lighted their fire on the bare earth, and having "their kettle slung between two poles upon a stick transverse," thus prepared the meal of homely and frugal fare for the repast of the diligent builders. With good cheer and kindly feelings, all partake of the sylvan feast. Thus refreshed, they speedily bear off their unsheltered furniture and goods to their several cabins, and feel themselves housed and settled for a season, "Where homes of humble form and structure rude Raise sweet society in solitude !" * *Some of these huts were so well constructed as to last for several years afterwards, --- not only serving the wants of succeeding emigrants, but in several cases, used by some of base sort, in aftertime, as homes good enough for low minds. In due time, the mind, devoted to better accommodation, seeks for its permanent settlement. Then the busy, bustling era begins ! First, the surveyor, with much labour, by falling of trees and drawing off brush wood, forms a way through which to draw his "lengthening chain", whereby the city plot is made. Lots are then to be covered with houses; and much of their material is to be found on the spot. Soon, therefore, the echoing woods resound with the labouring axe and the crash of falling trees. The wondering population of the forest are amazed at this first break of their long --- long silence, --- and starting here and falling there, --- beasts and birds, --- excellent for diet and a luxury to Europeans living under the prohibition of "game laws" --- are shot down at frequent occasions, --- even while the main design was to clear away the deep embarrassments of the soil.* Even the reptiles, deadly and venomous, here first felt the assault of the primeval curse, --- and "the serpent's head is crushed." But although the astonished tenants of the forest thus feel and fear the busy stir of man throughout the day, and find in him an enemy before unknown, we may suppose they were not immediately to be driven from their favourite haunts, but long and frequent would they linger round their wanted securities in the darkness and silence of night. It was therefore no strange thing with the primitive population to hear occasionally at safe distances, --- "the fox's bark, or wolf's lugubrious howl." *Pastorius' MS, in my possession, expressly says, he was often lost in the woods and brush, in going from his cave, to Bom's house, south-east corner of Chestnut and Third streets, where he procured his bread. When buildings had thus been generally started, and the clearings, and the burnings of the brushwod and undergrowth, had begun to mark, in rude lines, the originals of the present paved and stately streets, we may well imagine the cheerful greetings which passed among the settlers as they met, or surveyed each others progress. Often they must have reciprocally lent each other aid in "raisings" and the heavy operations requiring many hands. How busy then the brick makers, --- what perpetual burnings of their smoking kilns, --- what frequent arrivals and departures of small craft from the Jerseys, previously settled, --- of boards and slabs from their saw-mills, ere the Pennsylvania mills began. We know there were many inequities in the surface of the city plot then, which we do not perceive now. Some hills were to reduce, and several low or miry places to fill up or drain off. In many places, the most delightful rural beauties, formed by arboreous clumps, were utterly effaced by "clearings and burnings". Even solitary trees of sublime grandeur were not spared, from the then prevalent opinion, that dense foliage and shades would conduce to fevers. So general was the havoc in process of time, that none remained of all the crowded forest, save a cluster of black walnut trees, which, till of late years stood opposite the State house on Chestnut street, and guided the stranger to that once venerable edifice.* *The last of these, which stood in front of J. Ridgway's office, was cut down in 1818. I have preserved a relic of it. In that day, the greater part of the houses first built lay south of High street, and northward of Dock creek, --- then called "the Swamp", because of the creek which flowed through it, having had near its mouth a low and swampy margin, covered with swamp-whortleberries, &c. The creek itself was supplied by several springs flowing into it. At the mouth of the creek was a ferry, at the Blue Anchor Inn, for conveying passengers over to the opposite declining bank, called "Society Hill." It continued in use until they formed a "causeway" along the line of Front street across the Dock creek swamp. The same inn was memorable as the landing place of the illustrious founder, who came there in a boat from Chester, and first set his foot ashore on the "low sandy beach" then there, and long afterwards occupied as the "public landing" for the general use of the city. The first bridge, and their then first means of a cart-road leading to the west, was a wooden structure laid across the Dock creek, --- where the tide then ebbed and flowed, at Hudson's alley and Chestnut street. The creek at the same time traversed the grounds called "a deep valley", leading to Fourth and High street, and on the northern side of High street, westward of Fourth street, it formed a great pond, filled with spatterdocks, and surrounded with natural shrubbery. This pond was a great asylum for wild ducks and geese, --- "there the wild duck squadrons ride !" --- and often they were shot. Fish too, coming up with the high tides, were occasionally angled there. Another great duck pond lay in the rear of Christ Church, and thence extended beyond the rear of the first Baptist-meeting. At that pond, as well founded tradition relates, and Indian feast was celebrated. On that occasion the Indians, to amuse William Penn, and to show their agility in running and leaping, performed a foot race round the entire pond. Diverging from Dock creek, (at Girard's bank, once a place for small vessels,) ran a water course through what was afterwards called "Beek's Hollow", near Fourth and Walnut streets, and thence, by the African church in Fifth street, through the "Potter's-field", to the site of the present Doctor Wilson's Church, where it terminated in another duck pond. As buildings and comforts progressed, soon they turned their attention to public edifices. The Friends' meeting, built at the Centre Square, lay far beyond the verge of population, and often, when the early settlers were visiting it by the usual cart-road from the town, they saw it traversed before them by deer and wild turkeys. Their first prison was "the hired house of Patrick Robinson," in Second street, a little north of High street; --- and the first that the city held in fee simple, was situated on the site of the present Jersey Market, a little eastward of Second street. Between it and Front Street was once a "grassy sward, close cropt by nibbling sheep", retained there till slain and sold, by one Crone, from the moveable shambles set there on market days. Near there stood Penn's low two-story house, in Laetitia court; before which was the "Governor's Gate" where the proclamations of the day were made by "public outcry". Edward Shippen, the first city Mayor, surpassed his contemporaries in the style and grandeur of his edifice and appurtenances; for "crossing the water" he located himself in that venerable building, afterwards called "the Governor's House", and now superseded by "Waln's Row", in south Second Street. Its site was then "on the hill", "near the towne". There he had his "great and famous orchard". In the lawn before the house, descending to the Dock Creek, "reposed his herd of tranquil deer". The whole river scenery was then open to the view, and afforded a most picturesque and grateful prospect. Contemporaries with the structures before named rose the first part of Christ Church, under the mission of the Rev. Mr. Clayton. Pre-eminent in the grandeur of that day, and often visited as a curiosity then, was the present antiquated Swedes' Church and steeple at Wiccaco, built in 1700, to replace the former log church, wherein were loop-holes for fire arms in case of emergency from the Indians. "The State House", as it was called, wherein Governor Penn dwelt in the year 1700, still standing in humble guise at the south east corner of Second Street and Norris' Alley, was once an edifice with "bastions and saliant angles" like a fortress, and having behind it a great garden enclosure adorned with a lofty grove of trees. The "Coffee-house" of that day belonged to Samuel Carpenter, in the neighborhood of Front and Walnut Streets, near which he had also erected the first crane, and built the first bake-house, and first wharves for the accommodation of ships. At this time the only places of "common landing", were at the "low sandy beach", open till lately on the north side of the Drawbridge. Another was at the "Penny Pot-house" on the north side of Vine Street. The third and last was at a great breach through the high hill at Arch Street, over which an arched bridge extended, --- thus letting carts and people descend to "the landing" by passing under the arch. We must conceive that in the earliest days, the Indians were more or less constantly present, either as spectators of the improvements thus progressing, or as venders of their game and venison from the neighbouring woods. New England barks too, were early allured to bring in their supplies of provisions. The Swedes and Dutch, as neighbours, brought their productions to market as a matter of course. The Friends, before settled in and about Burlington, had already begun their thrifty Jersey traffic. Horse mills were resorted to for grinding corn, and floating windmills on the Delaware were also used. The great mill, for its day, was the "Governor's mill," --- a low structure on the location of the present Craig's Factory. Great was the difficulty then of going to it, they having to traverse the morass of Cohoquinoque, (since Pegg's marsh and run), and on the northern bank of which the Indians were still hutted; thence they had to wade through the Cohocsinc creek beyond it.* What a toil ! Wheel carriages were out of the question in such an expedition; and boats, or canoes, either ascended the Cohocsinc, then a navigable stream for such, or horses bore the grain or meal on their backs. *A Mrs. Smith and her horse were both drowned in attempting to cross, at where is now the long stone bridge. And in latter times, a horse and rider sunk and were lost in the quicksand there. How rude and rural every thing then ! How homespun and plain in their apparel, --- how hospitable yet frugal in their diet, --- how universally acquainted and familiar,--- how devoid of all pre-eminence and ostentation, --- what freedom and frankness in their interchange of commodities, --- what mutual helps and reciprocities in borrowing and lending, --- what commutation of labour and services for corn and necessaries, --- what certain enrichment to the "diligent hand" to prudent mechanics whose skill and labour were in constant requisition, --- how plain and rude then in their household furniture, --- how free to use carts or horses then, for occasions which now their descendants must accomplish in gilded equipages! "While we thus retrace with memory's pointing wand, That calls the past to our exact review" We may readily conceive that the young people of both sexes often formed exploring parties. Wishing to see the scenes which environed them, they plunged into the deep woods beyond the Dock Creek'; thence making a great circuit, they have seen the then wild Schuylkill shadowed by towering sycamores and oaks, and all the intermediate woods crowded with grape vines and whortle berries. Being protected from surprise by their needful guns, they start or shoot the rabbit, the rackoon (sic), perhaps the fox, or the heavy wild turkey. Perhaps they have met with a colony of friendly Indians, and bent on novelty and sport, they have bargained for the use of their canoes. Into these slender vessels they have huddled, and thus have made a voyage of discovery up and down the Manaiunk, endangered all the way by the frequent leapings of the reckless sturgeons. [These were then so numerous, says Penn, that many of them could be seen vaulting into the air at once, and often they fell into and overset the canoes.] Even the boys of that day had their rural exploits quite close to their own doors. There they could set snares and gins for game, and there they were sure of trapping rabbits, quails, &c. What a tramp it must have been for the urchins then to get over the great Dock Creek, and to lose themselves in the mysterious wanderings of the opposite woods. There starting and pursuing the wild game; sometimes chasing the fleet footed wild turkeys, which disdained to fly while their legs could serve their escape. If not so occupied, they found employment in gathering shellbarks, walnuts, filberts, or chestnuts, or ate of whortleberries, or blackberries, as the season and the fruit might serve. A person fully alive to the facts which in this new land still surround him wherever he goes, can hardly ride along the highway, or traverse our fields and woods, without feeling the constant intrusion of thoughts like these, to wit --- Here lately prowled the beasts of prey, --- there crowded the deep interminable woodland shade, --- through that cripple browsed the deer, --- in that rude cluster of rocks and roots were sheltered the American rattlesnake, just emblem of our brave, which, slow of entrance to a quarrel, are bold to sustain it. [ The naval flag of the revolution, besides the thirteen stripes, had a rattlesnake, with the motto ---"Don't tread on me".] These rich meadows were noxious swamps. On those sun-side hills of golden grain crackled the growing maize of the tawny aborigines. Where we stand, perchance to pause, rest the ashes of a Chief, or of his family; and where we have chosen our sites for our habitations, may have been the selected spots on which were hutted the now departed lineage of many generations. On yon path-way, seen in the distant view, climbing the remote hills, may have been the very path first tracked, from time immemorial, by the roving Indians themselves. Nay, it is very possible, that on the very site of Coaquanock, by the margin of the Dock Creek, on which their wigwams clustered and their canoes were sheltered, --- on the very spot where Henry, Hancock and Adams since inspired the delegates of the colonies (at the Carpenter's Hall) with nerve and sinew for the toils of war, --- there may have been lighted the council fires of wary Sachems, and there may have pealed the rude eloquence of Tamanend himself, --- and of the Shingas, Tadeuscunds and Glikicans of their primitive and undebauched age ! In short, on these topics, an instructed mind, formed and disciplined to Shenstone's muse, could not be idle ! "But oft, in contemplation led, O'er the long vista that has fled, Would draw from meditative lore The shadows of the scene before !" Next: Facts and Occurrences of the Primtive Settlement.