Area History: Watson's Annals of Philadelphia and Pennsylvania, 1857, Vol I: River-Front Bank

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       WATSON'S  ANNALS  of  PHILADELPHIA  and  PENNSYLVANIA

               Vol. I    Written 1830 - 1850

Chapter 15.           RIVER-FRONT  BANK

  The history of the "bank lots" on the river-front is a topic in which all,
who can feel an interest in the comfort, beauty, or fame of our city, must
have a concern.  It was the original design of Penn to have beautified our
city, by a most graceful and agreeable promenade on the high bank of the
river-front, the whole length of the city.  Thus intending Front Street to
have had an uninterrupted view of the Delaware and river scenery, after the
manner of the celebrated Bomb Quai at Rotterdam.  How all those desirable
purposes were frustrated, and how our admirable natural advantages for an
elegant river display, have been superseded by a cramped and inconvenient
street and houses, shall be communicated to the reader in the following
facts, to wit:
   We find, from the Citizens' Memorial of the 3d of  6mo. 1684, the first
open attempt to make some breach in the original plan, but the direct manner
in which they were repelled by William Penn, is evidence how much he then
had it at heart to preserve "the top bank as a common Exchange or walk".
The memorialists claimed "the privilege to build vaults or stores in the
bank against their respective lots", on the western side of Front Street.
His answer is not known at full length; but his endorsement on the petition
speaks thus, viz:  "The bank is a top common from end to end.  The rest next
the water belongs to front lot men (i.e. owners on Front Street) no more than
back lot men.  The way bounds them.  They may build stairs, and the top of
the bank be a common Exchange or walk; and against the streets, (opening to
the river) common wharves may be built freely, but into the water and the
shore, is no purchaser's".
   The assembly too, addressed Penn on the 20th September 1701, "concerning
property", and his answer is "I am willing to grant the ends of streets
according to your request";  therein showing that the general bank was
deemed out of the question.
   A paper of the 26th April 1690, from Penn's commissioners of property,
combined with a confession from William Penn to James Logan, which we shall
presently show, presents us the evidence of the time and the motive for the
fatal concession of the bank lots to those who would become purchasers.  The
persons entitled to the discredit of thus marring our intended beautiful
city, were Samuel Carpenter, William Markham, Robert Turner, and John
Goodson.  They state, that "Whereas, they have been petitioned by holders of
bank lots to grant them the further privilege to build on the same, as much
higher as they please, on the former terms, they therefore declare their
concurrence with the same, because the more their improvements are [in
elevation or value] the greater will be the proprietor's benefit at the
expiration of said fifty-one years in the said patents mentioned".
   It appears from this paper, that before the year 1690, the grants were
only occasional to some few special circumstances or friends, and
particularly to Samuel Carpenter, whose public buildings on the wharf near
Walnut Street were considerable.  For these indulgences they also allured,
by a covenant, of giving back to the proprietary at the end of fifty-one
years, one-third of their improvements.  To a needy patron, such as Penn
was, the right of selling out the proposed improvements, presented, as they
may have thought, an appeal to his actual wants, which might eventually
reconcile him to their extra-official concessions.
   How mortified and vexed must Penn have felt on his second arrival in
1699, to witness the growing deformity of his city, and to see how far
individual interest had swerved his agents from the general good !   Logan's
letter of 1741, to Penn's son, in explanation of the preceding facts, shows
how sensibly Penn regretted the measures so taken, even while his
circumstances prevented his reversing and cancelling the things already
done; as if he had said: "Mine necessity, not my will, hath done this".
Logan's letter says, "Thy father himself acknowledged when here (last) that
he owed [as a cause] those high quit-rents for the bank of Philadelphia, and
the reversion of the third of the value [ground and all] after fifty years,
entirely to Samuel Carpenter, who, much against his (Penn's) inclinations,
had tempted him, with them, to suffer himself [S.C.] and other purchasers in
Front to build on the east side of that street; and he [S.C.] subscribed
with Jonathan Dickinson and others to have a price set in the reversion of
the said thirds, which was then done at 20 shillings per foot, now very near
forty years since, with a view to raise a sum which was then exceedingly
wanted".
   Thus, even Penn, who should have had his equivalent for so essential a
deformity engrafted upon this city, after all, got not the proffered benefit
of fifty years accumulation of value in houses and lots, but a small present
sum in lieu; and we have now the entail of their selfish scheme !   I feel
vexed and chagrined, while I pen this article, to think for what mere
personal purposes fair Philadelphia was so much marred !   We were once
tempted, to propose the expense of opening a river prospect to the river
from Arch to Chestnut Street, or at least, striving so far to repair the
loss sustained, as to make a water promenade under a continued line of
trees, the whole length of the river-front.  A well paved straight street
could be effected along the wharves, by extending some of the present docks,
and thereby giving room for ranging the fronts of the stores and trees on
the western side in a direct and uniform line, and suffering no kind of
buildings in their front.
   Since the first publication of the Annals, a writer in Poulson's paper
says, that "the proposition of the late Mr. Girard to restore, so far as
possible, the spoiled river-front, is so like the suggestion made in
Watson's Annals, that it may be curious, now that the subject is likely to
invite much public attention, to give your readers an extract from that
book.  I remember well, when reading it, that I thought, "shall we indeed,
ever find persons to adopt the hint", and now, behold, we have the measure
endorsed by a bequest of half a million to effect the desirable object !"
He then quotes the passage in the preceding paragraph, as matter in point.
    In September 1832, the Cholera physicians of Philadelphia put forth a
memorial to the City Council, urging the advantage of taking down the city
front along the river, both for health and beauty.
   Soon after there appeared several articles in Poulson's Gazette,
recommending and arguing upon the advantages of such a measure, by
Philadelphus, Civis, S. P., and others --- and finally, in July 1833, we saw
a hint to this effect, saying, "now that we have Committees appointed to
consider and report upon the matter of the "Delaware Avenue", we think the
time is favourable to introduce the original design of the open River-Front
--- a topic which has already been under notice in the public prints".
   Finally --- this thing, we are glad to say, has been partially attended
to in the will of Stephen Girard --- it is not all that was desired, but it
is still an improvement --- so far as it goes.  It has already cost 200,000
dollars, and would be much improved by a line of trees.
   The progress of Penn's dissatisfaction at his agent's management, and his
own reluctant compliances, may be further noticed in James Logan's letter of
1702, and Penn's reply of 1703-4.  James Logan says, "For this past year, we
have sold but 165 feet of the banks, [perhaps a fact evincing its
unpopularity] of which good part is yet unpaid according to thy concession,
who, under thy hand, granted two years for the latter moiety.  This
backwardness was foolishly occasioned by P. Parmiter a few days after thy
departure, who affirmed that thy right extended no further than to the edge
of the river.  This discouraged many".  In another place he says, "The bank
does in no way answer to sell out; --- only two patents granted".
   In 1703-4, William Penn writes, saying, "I will have no more bank lots
disposed of, nor keys yet made into the river, without my special and fresh
leave, for reasons justifiable".  And this he confirms soon after, by
saying, "Till further orders, I will have no bank lots sold, and never the
20 shillings per lot, on any account.  Pray mind this.  I have good reasons
for it at present."
   Among the early favoured persons, who had the indulgence of the bank lots
was Thomas Masters, who, in the year 1702, built "a stately house, five
stories from the lower street and three the upper, at the corner of High and
Front Streets".  And soon after, says James Logan, "T. Masters has built
another stately house, the most substantial in town, on Laetitia's Bank Lot,
which for the improvement of the place, was sold him for £ 190 sterling,
including the reversion".
   In the year 1705, the bank lot owners being required to regulate King
Street, their fewness of names and number are only these, to wit: Hugh
Codderer; Michael Isbern;  Isaac Norris;  Edward Shippen;  Henry Badcock;
Smith Carpenter;  Abraham Buckley;  Samuel Powell;  Thomas Tresse;  Joseph
Pidgeon.
   From the vague manner in which those few names "are required to enter
into measures to regulate King Street" (the present Water Street) I think we
can form a guess how we came to have so ill-concerted and contracted a
thoroughfare.  With such abundance of earth as they had in the bank lots, it
was easy to have determined upon and made a wide and straight street; but
the selfish policy which first started the expedient of spoiling the
river-front for private aims, conducted the primitive leaders in their
measures to the shortest means of personal benefit.  Where "all did what was
right in their own eyes" only, it was easy to suit themselves for the
occasion with a narrow street, and those who came after them had to follow
it.  The subject presents no point in which we can be gratified, or yield
our commendation.
   We shall now conclude with some notices of occurrences at or near the
bank in early days, to wit:
   In 1701, the Grand Jury present High Street hill "as a great nuisance,
and a place of great danger in passing Front Street, and to the utter ruin
of said street and public landing there; and whereas there are also other
breaches, places and landings within the town which require repair, the
Governor and Council order that £ 500 be assessed on the inhabitants for
effecting the same".
   In 1712, they present the well at the end of High Street near the river
--- the same wants to be covered --- and King Street, at the same place, to
be made cartable.  Thus showing, that if the well be near the river, and at
the same time on King Street, (Water Street) the river shore was then close
to the hill or bank.  We know, in proof of this, that the house of
Donaldson, at the northeast corner of Water and High Streets, was for many
years after it was built, subject to water in its cellars in times of freshets.
   In 1720, an invasion of water "on the common shore", as made into King
Street is noticed: and the Grand Jury present as "a nuisance, a great breach
in the bank, and passing into Front Street above Mulberry Street and below
Griffith's new wall", meaning his wall to keep up the river bank.
   In 1721, the Grand Jury present, as out of repair and dangerous the
"Crooked Billet steps", above Chestnut Street.
   In 1723, the Grand Jury present "deep gullies from Front Street, where
the arch stood, to the arch wharf" --- meaning the east end of Mulberry Street
   In 1725, the Grand Jury present " the east end of Sassafras Street, the
bank being washed away almost across the Front street; also the Front
Street, against the houses late of John Jones, deceased, [now end of Combes'
Alley] as hardly passable for horse or cart".  They also present "the wall
on the common shore in the High Street for want of a better covering".
  A. J. Morris, Esq., when 90 years of age, told me that the bank side of
Front Street was unbuilt in several places in his youth.  He used, like John
Brown, to sled down the open  hill, opposite to Combes' Alley.  From High
Street to Arch Street was very open, especially from the bank steps at
Clifford's northward.  Below High Street it was full built up; but from Arch
up to Vine Street, many places were still open.  The east side of Water
Street was generally built up, and the best families were living there.
   In my youth, I saw the only remaining original shore of the city
unwharfed; it was called Taylor's Dock; above Vine Street there was a place
of considerable width.  At the Dock Bridge too, north side, was a similar
dock, used for like purposes.  At both places shallops brought loads of
stone and street pebbles, which they unloaded into the carts, as the carts
backed into the water along side of the vessels.

Chapter 16.          THE  CAVES

   Most Philadelphians have had some vague conceptions of the caves and
cabins in which the primitive settlers made their temporary residence.  The
caves were generally formed by digging into the ground, near the verge of
the river-front bank, about three feet in depth thus making half their
chamber under ground; and the remaining half above ground was formed of sods
of earth, or earth and brush combined.  The roofs were formed of layers of
limbs, or split pieces of trees, over-laid with sod or bark, river rushes,
&c.  The chimneys were of stones and river pebbles, mortared together with
clay and grass, or river reeds.  The following facts may illustrate this
subject, to wit:
   An original paper is in John Johnson's family, of the year 1683, which is
an instrument concerning a division of certain lands, and "executed and
witnessed in the cave of Francis Daniel Pastorius, Esq."
   On the 17th of 9 mo.1685, it was ordered by the provincial executive
Council, that all families living in caves should appear before the council.
What a group they must have made !   This order was occasioned by the
representations of the magistrates of Philadelphia, and enforced by a letter
they had received from Governor Penn, in England.  No one, however, thought
proper to obey the order.  The Council gave "further notice" that the
Governor's orders relating to the caves will be put in execution in one
month's time.
   In 1685, the Grand Jury present Joseph Knight, for suffering drunkenness
and evil orders in his cave; and several drinking houses to debauch persons
are also presented.  They also present all the empty caves that do stand in
the Front Street, "which is to be sixty feet wide", wherefore, the court
orders that they forthwith "be pulled down" by the constables, and
"demolished" [terms intimating they were in part above ground] and upon
request of John Barnes and Patrick Robinson, [the Clerk of Council] who
asked one month to pull down their respective caves, it was granted, on
condition that they fill up the hole in the street.  On another occasion,
they are called Caves, or "Cabins" on the king's highway.
   The interesting story concerning the cave at the Crooked Billet, at which
the ancestors of Deborah Morris dwelt, has been told under the article
"Primitive Settlement".
   Mrs. Hannah Speakerman, when aged 75, told me that she well remembered
having seen and often played at an original cave, called "Owen's Cave".  It
was in "Townsend's Court", on the south side of Spruce Street, west of
Second Street, on a shelving bank.  It was dug into the hill --- had grass
growing upon the roof part, which was itself formed of close-laid timber.
The same man who had once inhabited it was still alive, and dwelt in a small
frame house near it.  Near the cave stood a large apple tree, and close by,
on "Barclay's place", so called, she often gathered filberts and hickory
nuts.  The whole was an unimproved place only 80 years ago; it being from
some cause, suffered to lay waste by the Barclay heirs.
   John Brown, and others, told me that the original cave of the Coates'
Family, in the Northern Liberties, was preserved in some form in the cellar
of the family mansion, which remained till 1830, at the southwest corner of
Green and Front Streets.

Chapter 17.        HABITS  AND  STATE  OF  SOCIETY

   "Not to know what has been transacted in former times, is always to
remain a child !" --  Cicero

   It is our intention (so far as facts will enable us) to raise some
conceptions of the men and things as they existed in former years, chiefly
such as they were when every thing partook of colonial submission and
simplicity --- when we had not learnt to aspire to great things.  To this
end we shall here dispose our collections from "narrative old age", and show
the state of the past "glimmering through the dream of things that were".
   Gabriel Thomas, in his account of 1698, of the primitive state of
society, speaks of great encouragements and ready pay given to all
conditions of tradesmen and working men.  None need stand idle.  Of lawyers
and physicians he remarks he will say little, save that their services were
little required, as all were peaceable and healthy.  Women's wages he speaks
of as peculiarly high, for two reasons: the sex was not numerous, which
tended to make them in demand, and therefore to raise the price.  Besides,
as these married by the time they were twenty years of age, they sought to
procure a maid-servant for themselves in turn.  Old maids were not to be met
with, neither jealousy of husbands.  The children were generally well
favoured and beautiful to behold.  He says he never knew any with the least
blemish.  William Penn also made the remark, on his arrival, that all the
houses of the Dutch and Swedes he found every where filled with a lusty and
fine looking race of children.
   Numerous traditionary accounts attest the fact, that there was always
among the early settlers a frank and generous hospitality.  Their
entertainments were devoid of glare and show, but always abundant and good.
Mr. Kahn, when here in 1748, expressed his great surprise at the universal
freedom with which travellers were every where accustomed to leap over the
hedges and take the fruit from the orchards, even while the owners were
looking on, without refusal.  Fine peaches, he says, were thus taken from
the orchards of the poorest peasants, such as could only be enjoyed, as he
said, by the nobility in his own country !  What a golden age it must have
appeared to him and others !
   William Fishbourne, in his MS. narrative of about the same time, says,
"Thus Providence caused the country to flourish and to increase in wealth,
to the admiration of all people, --- the soil being fruitful and the people
industrious.  For many years there subsisted a good concord and benevolent
disposition among the people of all denominations, each delighting to be
reciprocally helpful and kind in acts of friendship for one another".
   Moral as the people generally were, and well disposed to cherish a proper
regard for religious principles, it became a matter of easy attainment to
the celebrated Whitfield and his coadjutors, Tennant, Davenport, &c., to
gain a great ascendancy over the minds of many of the people.  The
excitements wrought among them were very considerable.  He procured in
Philadelphia, to be built for him, one of the largest churches then in the
colonies, and his helper, Tennant, another.  It is manifest enough now that
the ardour of success generated considerable of fanaticism and its
consequent reproach.*   Whitfield, in 1739 preached to a crowd of 15,000
persons on Society Hill.  About the same time he so far succeeded to repress
the usual public amusements so that the dancing-school was discontinued, and
the ball and concert room were shut up, as inconsistent with the
requisitions of the gospel.  No less than fourteen sermons were preached on
Society Hill in open air in one week, during the session of the Presbyterian
Church; and the Gazette of the day in noticing the fact says, "the change to
religion here is altogether surprising, through the influence of Whitfield
--- no books sell but religious, and such is the general conversation".   [*
This is manifest by numerous publications of the day.  Rev. Mr. Cummings of
Christ Church, and Rev. E Kinnersly, Professor, among others, published
against them. Both Whitfield and Tennant lived long enough afterwards to
make their confessions of intemperate zeal.]
   Doctor Franklin, describing the state of the people about the year 1752,
says they were all loyal and submitted willingly to the government of the
crown, or paid for defence cheerfully.  "They were led by a thread.  They
not only had a respect, but an affection for Great Britain, for its laws,
its customs, and its manners, and even a fondness for its fashions", --- not
yet subsided.  Natives of Great Britain were always treated with particular
regard; and to be "an Old England man", gave a kind of rank and respect
among us".
   The old people all testify that the young of their youth were much more
reserved, and held under much more restraint in the presence of their elders
and parents, than now.  Bashfulness and modesty in the young were then
regarded as virtues; and the present freedom before the aged was not then
countenanced.  Young lovers then listened and took side-long glances when
before their parents or elders.
   Mrs. Susan N___, who lived to be 80 years of age, told me it was the
custom of her early days for the young part of the family, and especially of
the female part, to dress up neatly towards the close of the day and sit in
the street porch.  It was customary to go from porch to porch in
neighbourhoods and sit and converse.  Young gentlemen in passing, used to
affect to say, that while they admired the charms of the fair who thus
occupied them, they found it a severe ordeal, as they thought they might
become the subject of remark.  This, however, was a mere banter.  Those days
were really very agreeable and sociable.  To be so easily gratified with a
sight of the whole city population, must have been peculiarly grateful to
every travelling stranger.  In truth, we have never seen a citizen who
remembered the former easy exhibition of families, who did not regret its
present exclusive and reserved substitute.
   The same lady told me it was a common occurrence to see genteel men after
a fall of snow shovelling it away from their several doors. She has told me
the names of several who would not now suffer their children to do the same.
   The late aged John Warder, Esq., told me that in his younger days he
never knew of more than five or six persons at most, in the whole city, who
did not live on the same spot where they pursued their business, -- a
convenience and benefit now so generally departed from by the general class
of traders.  Then wives and daughters very often served in the stores of
their parents, and the retail dry goods business was mostly in the hands of
widows or maiden ladies.
   Mrs. S. N. also informed me that she remembers having been at houses when
tea was a rarity, and has seen the quantity measured out for the tea pot in
small hand-scales.  This was to apportion the strength with accuracy.
   In the early days, if a citizen failed in business it was a cause of
general and deep regret.  Every man who met his neighbour spoke of his
chagrin.  It was a rare occurrence, because honesty and temperance in trade
was then universal; and none embarked then without a previous means adapted
to their business.
   Another lady, Mrs. H., who saw things before the war of Independence,
says she is often amused with the exclamation of her young friends, as she
points them now to houses of a second or third rate tradesman, and says "in
that house such and such a distinguished man held his banquets".  Dinners
and suppers went the round of every social circle at Christmas, and they who
partook of the former were also expected to remain for the supper.
Afternoon visits were made, not at night as now, but at so early an hour as
to permit matrons to go home and see their children put to bed.
   I have often heard aged citizens say, that decent citizens had a
universal speaking acquaintance with each other, and every body promptly
recognised a stranger in the streets.  A simple, or idiot person, was known
to the whole population.  Every body knew Bobby Fox, and habitually jested
with him as they met him.  Michael Weaders too, was an aged idiot, whom all
knew and esteemed; so much so, that they actually engraved his portrait as a
remembrancer of his benignant and simple face.
   Doctor Franklin has said, that before the war of Independence "to be an
Old England man gave a kind of rank and respect among us".  I introduce this
remark for the sake of observing, that for many years after that war, even
til nearly down to the present day, I can remember that we seemed to concede
to English gentlemen a claim, which they were not backward to arrogate, that
they were a superior race of men; this, too, from their having been familiar
at home with superior displays of grandeur, more conveniences of living,
higher perfections in the arts, &c.  Their assumptions, in consequence, were
sometime arrogant or offensive.  And I remember to have felt with others
some disparagement in the comparison. If it were only to speak of their
grand navy, we felt diminutive when we heard big tales of their "Royal
George" --- the grandeur of their "great fleet", &c., --- we who had never
seen more among us than a single frigate.    But the time is now passing
off, --- we have in turn become renowned and great.  Our navy has become
respectable; our entertainments have become splendid and costly. I have
lived withal, to find that even we, who before cowered, have taken our turn
of being lordly; which we manifest in the offensive deportment of a mother
country to our numerous colonies in the west, &c.  I only "speak what I do
know" when I say, I have seen Philadelphians and New Yorkers, as
metropolitans, assuming airs of importance at Washington City, at Pittsburg,
at Cincinnati, at New Orleans, &c.  Those pretensions of our vanity formerly
in those places will subside and pass away; already they will scarcely be
observed there, and could hardly have been believed but for this
remembrancer, which shows, indeed, the general state of rising society in
this new country.
   The tradesmen before the Revolution (I mention these facts with all good
feeling) were an entirely different generation of men from the present. They
did not then, as now, present the appearance in dress of gentlemen.  Between
them and what were deemed the hereditary gentlemen there was a marked
difference. "The gentry think scorn of leather aprons", said Shakespeare.  In
truth, the aristocracy of the gentlemen then was noticed, if not felt, and
it was to check any undue assumption of ascendancy in them, that the other
invented the rallying name of "the Leather Apron Club", --- a name with
which they were familiar before Franklin's "junta" was formed, and received
that other name.  In that day the tradesmen and their families had far less
pride than now.  While at their work, or in going abroad on weekdays, all
such as followed rough trades, such as carpenters, masons, coopers,
blacksmiths, &c., universally wore a leathern apron before them, and
covering all, their vest.  Dingy buckskin breeches, once yellow, and check
shirts and a red flannel jacket was the common wear of most working men; and
all men and boys from the country were seen in the streets in leather
breeches and aprons, and would have been deemed out of character without
them.  In those days, tailors, shoemakers and hatters waited on customers to
take their measures, and afterwards called with garments to fit them on
before finished.
   One of the remarkable incidents of our republican principles of equality,
is that hirelings, who in times before the war of Independence were
accustomed to accept the name of servants, and to be dressed according to
their condition, will now no longer suffer the former appellation; and all
affect the dress and the air, when abroad, of genteeler people than their
business warrants.  Those, therefore, who from affluence have many such
dependants, find it a constant subject of perplexity to manage their pride
and assumption.
   In the olden time all the hired women wore short-gowns and linsey-woolsey
or worsted petticoats.  Some are still alive who used to call master and
mistress, who will no longer do it.
   These acts have been noticed by the London Quarterly Review, which
instances a case highly characteristic of their high independence:  A lady,
who had a large gala party, having rung somewhat passionately at the bell to
call a domestic, was answered by a girl opening the saloon door, saying,
"the more you ring the more I won't come", and so withdrew !  Now all hired
girls appear abroad in the same style of dress as their ladies; for,
         "Excess, the scrofulous and itchy plague
          That seizes first the opulent, descends
          To the next rank contagious ! and in time
          Taints downwards all the graduated scale"
So true it is that every condition of society is now changed from the plain
and unaffected state of our forefathers, --- all are
          "Infected with the manners and the modes
           They knew not once !
   Before the Revolution no hired man or woman wore any shoes so fine as
calf skin; coarse neat's leather was their every day wear.  Men and women
then hired by the year, --- men got L 16 to 20, and a servant woman L 8 to
10.  Out of that it was their custom to lay up money, to buy before their
marriage a bed and bedding, silver teaspoons, and a spinning-wheel, &c.
   A lady of my acquaintance, Mrs. H., familiar with those things as they
were before the Revolution, has thus expressed her sense of them, viz.  In
the olden time domestic comfort was not every day interrupted by the pride
and the profligacy of servants. There were then but few hired, --- black
slaves, and German and Irish redemptioners made up the mass.  Personal
liberty is, unquestionably the inherent right of every human creature; but
the slaves of Philadelphia were a happier class of people than the free
blacks now, who exhibit every sort of wretchedness and profligacy in their
dwellings.  The former felt themselves to be an integral part of the family
to which they belonged; they were faithful and contented, and affected no
equality in dress or manners with those who ruled them; every kindness was
extended to them in return.
   Among the rough amusements of men might be mentioned, shooting, fishing,
and sailing parties.  These were frequent, as also glutton clubs,
fishing-house and country parties were much indulged in by respectable
citizens.  Great sociability prevailed among all classes of citizens until
the strife with Great Britain sent "every man to his own ways"; then discord
and acrimony ensued, and the previously general friendly intercourse never
returned. We afterwards grew another and enlarged people.
   Our girls in the day-time, as told me by T. B., used to attend to the work
of the family, and in the evening paraded in their porch at the door.  Some
of them, however, even then read novels and walked without business abroad.
Those who had not housework employed themselves in their accomplishments,
such as making shell work, cornucopiaes, working of pocket books with a
close strong-stitched needle work.
   Our present young ladies have scarcely a conception of the painstaking
and patient industry of their grandmothers in their shell work and other
accomplishments.  To give only one instance of illustration : the present
Mrs. Susan Eckard, (daughter of Col. James Read) has now in her possession
such shell work done by her mother before the Revolutionary war.  It
purports to show a flower-garden with persons therein.  It is contained in a
glass framed work, as large as a small bureau.  There is also, done by the
same hand, an exhibition of flowers, formed wholly from small silk-cuttings,
the whole comprised in a long glass case, to cover the whole length of the
mantelpiece.  With the same lady is a needle-worked sampler of the year
1752, done in silk and golden thread.  She has also the fans in fine
preservation, which were those of her grandmother and mother, at their
several weddings; also the high heeled satin shoes.  All these are preserved
(with several other family relics, such as lockets, rings, coral balls,
plate, &c.) as so many links of union, connecting the present with past
family respect and regard.
   The ladies, eighty years ago, were much accustomed to ride on horseback
for recreation.  It was quite common to see genteel ladies riding with
jockey caps.
   Boarding schools for girls were not known in Philadelphia until about the
time of the Revolution, nor had they any separate schools for writing and
cyphering, but were taught in common with boys.  The ornamental parts of
female education were bestowed, but geography and grammar were never
regarded for them, until a certain Mr. Horton --- thanks to his name ! ---
proposed to teach those sciences to young ladies.  Similar institutions
afterwards grew into favour.
   It was usual in the Gazettes of 1760 to ' 70 to announce marriages in
words like these, to wit: "Miss Betsey Laurence, or Miss Eliza Caton, a most
agreeable lady, with a large or a handsome fortune !"
   In still earlier times marriages had to be promulged by affixing the
intentions of the parties on the Court House or Meeting House door; and when
the act was solemnized they should have at least twelve subscribing
witnesses.  The act which imposed it was passed in 1700.
   The wedding entertainments of olden times were very expensive and
harassing to the wedded.  The house of the parent would be filled with
company to dine; the same company would stay to tea and to supper.  For two
days punch was dealt out in profusion.  The gentlemen saw the groom on the
first floor, and then ascended to the second floor, where they saw the
bride; there every gentleman, even to one hundred in a day, kissed her!
Even the plain Friends submitted to these things.  I have known rich
families which had 120 persons to dine --- the same who had signed their
certificate of marriage at the Monthly Meeting; these also partook of tea
and supper.  As they formally passed the Meeting twice, the same
entertainment was repeated.  Two days the male friends would call and take
punch; and all would kiss the bride.  Besides this, the married pair for two
weeks saw large tea parties at their home, having in attendance every night
the groomsman and bridesmaids.  To avoid expense and trouble, Friends have
since made it sufficient to pass but one Meeting.  When these marriage
entertainments were made, it was expected also that punch, cakes and meats
should be sent out very generally in the neighbourhood even to those who
were not visitors in the family !
   It was much the vogue of the times of the year 1760, and thereabouts, to
"crack the satiric thong" on the offenders of the day by caricatures.  R. J.
Dove, of that day, a teacher in the Academy, and a satirist, was the author
of several articles in that way.  He was encountered in turn by one Isaac
Hunt, who went afterwards to England and became a clergyman there.  Two such
engraved caricatures and some poetry I have preserved in my MS. Annals in
the City Library, pages 273 - 4:  One is "the attempt to wash the blackamoor
white", meaning Judge Moor; the other is a caricature of Friends, intended
to asperse them as promoting Indian ravages in the time of their
"association for preserving peace".  I have also two other engraved articles
and poetry called "The Medley", and "The Counter Medley", intended for
electioneering squibs and slurring the leaders.  The late Judge Peters, who
had been Dove's pupil, described him as "a sarcastical and ill-tempered
doggerelizer, who was but ironically Dove; for his temper was that of a
hawk, and his pen the beak of a falcon pouncing on innocent prey".

   It may surprise some of the present generation to learn that some of
those aged persons whom they may now meet, have teeth which were originally
in the heads of others !  I have seen a printed advertisement of the year
1784, wherein Doctor Le Mayeur, dentist, proposes to the citizens of
Philadelphia to transplant teeth; stating therein, that he has successfully
transplanted 123 teeth in the preceding six months !  At the same time he
offers two guineas for every tooth which may be offered to him by "persons
disposed to sell their front teeth or any of them !"  This was quite a
novelty in Philadelphia; the present care of the teeth was ill understood
then. [Indeed, dentists were few then even in Paris and London]  He had,
however, great success in Philadelphia, and went off with a great deal of
our patricians' money.  Several respectable ladies had them implanted.  I
remember some curious anecdotes of some cases. One of the Meschianza belles
had such teeth.  They were, in some cases, two months before they could eat
with them.  One lady told me she knew of sixteen cases of such persons among
her acquaintance.
   Doctor Baker, who preceded Le Mayeur, was the first person ever known as
a dentist in Philadelphia.  Tooth-brushes were not even known, and the
genteelest then were content to rub the teeth with a chalked rag or with
snuff.  Some even deemed it an effeminacy in men to be seen cleaning the
teeth at all.
   Of articles and rules of diet, so far as it differed from ours in the
earliest time, we may mention [that] coffee as a beverage, was used but
rarely; chocolate for morning and evening, or thickened milk for children.
Cookery in general was plainer than now.  In the country, morning and
evening repasts were generally made of milk, having bread boiled therein, or
else thickened with pop-robbins, --- things made up of flour and eggs into a
batter, and so dropped in with the boiling milk.
   We shall give the reader some little notice of a strange state of our
society about the years 1793 to 1798, when the phrenzy of the French
revolution possessed and maddened the boys, without any check or restraint
from men half as puerile then as themselves in the delusive politics of the day.
   About the year 1793 to ' 94, there was an extravagant and impolitic
affection for France, and hostility to every thing British, in our country
generally.  It required all the prudence of Washington and his cabinet to
stem the torrent of passion which flowed in favour of France to the
prejudice of our neutrality.  Now the event is passed, we may thus soberly
speak of its character. This remark is made for the sake of introducing the
fact, that the patriotic mania was so high that it caught the feelings of
the boys of Philadelphia !  I remember with what joy we ran to the wharves
at the report of cannon to see the arrivals of the Frenchman's prizes, ---
we were so pleased to see the British union down !  When we met French
marines or officers in the streets, we would cry "Vive la Republique".
Although most of us understood no French, we had caught many national airs,
and the streets, by day and night, resounded with the songs of boys, such as
these: "Allons, enfans de la patrie, le jour de gloire est arrive'!"
'Dansons le carmagnole', vive le sang !  vive le sang !", &c. &c.  Several
verses of each and others were thus sung. All of us, too, put on the
national cockade. Some, whose parents had more discretion, resisted this
boyish parade of patriotism for a doubtful revolution, and then they wore
their cockade on the inside of their hat. I remember several boyish
processions; and on one occasion the girls, dressed in white and in French
tri-colored ribbons, formed a procession too.  There was a great Liberty
Pole, with a red cap at top, erected at Adet's or Fauchet's house; (now
Girard's Square, up High Street) and there I and one hundred others, taking
hold of hands and forming a ring round the same, made triumphant leapings
singing the national airs.  There was a band of music to lead the airs.  I
remember that among the grave and elderly men, who gave the impulse and
prompted the revellings, was a burly, gouty old gentleman, Blair McClenahan,
Esq., (famed in the democratic ranks of that
day) and with him, and the white misses at our head, we marched down the
middle of the dusty street, and when arrived opposite to Mr. Hammond's, the
British minister's house, (High, above Eighth Street, Hunter's house, I
believe) there were several signs of disrespect manifested to his house.
All the facts of that day, as I now contemplate them as among the earliest
impressions of my youth, seem something like the remembrance of  a splendid
dream.  I hope never to see such an enthusiasm for any foreigners again,
however merited.  It was a time, when as it seems to me, that Philadelphia
boys usurped the attributes of manhood; and the men, who should have
chastened us, had themselves become very puerile!  It was a period in
Philadelphia, when reason and sobriety of thought had lost their wonted
operation on our citizens.  They were fine feelings to ensure the success of
a war actually begun, but bad affections for any nation, whose interests lay
in peace and neutrality. Washington bravely submitted to become unpopular to
allay and repress this dangerous foreign attachment.
   I confirm the above by further notices by Lang Syne, to wit: "About the
time when, in Paris, the head of Louis, "Our august ally", had rolled into
the basket; when it had been pronounced before the Convention, "Lyons is no
more"; when the Abbe Sieyes had placed in his pigeon holes (until called
for) Constitutions for every State in Europe; when our Mr. Monroe had
exhibited to Europe "a strange spectacle"; when the three grinning wolves of
Paris had begun to lap French blood, while Lieutenant Bonaparte of the
artillery was warming his scabbard in the ante-chamber of Barras; when the
straw-blaze of civil liberty, enkindled in France by a "spark from the altar
of '76", (which sufficiently illuminated the surrounding gloom of despotism,
as to render the "darkness visible") was fast going out, leaving only the
blackened embers, and a smoke in the nostrils.  About this time, almost
every vessel arriving here brought fugitives from the infuriated negroes in
Port au Prince, or the sharp axe of the guillotine in Paris, dripping night
and day with the blood of Frenchmen, shed in the name of liberty, equality,
and the (sacred) rights of man.  Our city thronged with French people of all
shades from the colonies, and those from Old France, giving it the
appearance of one great hotel, or place of shelter for strangers hastily
collected together from a raging tempest.  The characteristic old school
simplicity of the citizens, in manners, habits of dress, and modes of
thinking and speaking on the subjects of civil rights and forms of
government, by the square and rule of reason and argument, and the "rules of
the schools", began to be broken in upon by the new enthusiasm of C'ira and
Carmagnole, French boarding-houses (pension Francaise), multiplied in every
street.  The one at the southeast corner of Race and Second Streets, having
some 40 windows, was filled with colonial French to the garret windows,
whistling and jumping about, fiddling and singing, as fancy seemed to
suggest, like so many crickets and grasshoppers.  Groups of both sexes were
to be seen seated on chairs, in summer weather, forming semi-circles near
the doors, so displayed as sometimes to render it necessary to step into the
street to get along; --- their tongues, shoulders and hands in perpetual
motion, jabbering away, "talkers and no hearers".  Mestizo ladies, with
complexions of the palest marble, jet black hair, and eyes of the gazelle,
and of the most exquisite symmetry, were to be seen, escorted along the
pavement by white French gentlemen, both dressed in West India fashion, and
of the richest materials; coal black negresses, in flowing white dresses,
and turbans of "muchoir de Madras", exhibiting their ivory dominos, in
social walk with a white or creole; -- altogether, forming a contrast to the
native Americans, and the emigrants from Old France, most of whom still kept
in the stately old Bourbon style of dress and manner, wearing the head full
powdered a la Louis, golden headed cane, silver buckles, and cocked hat,
seemingly to express thereby their fierce contempt for the pantaloons, silk
shoestring, and "Brutus Crop".
   The "Courier des Dames" of both, daily ogling and "sighing like a
furnace" bowing a` la distance --- dangling in doorways by day, and chanting
"dans votre lit" by night, under the window of our native fair ones,
bewildered by the (at that time) novel and delightful incense of flattery,
so unusual to them in the manner, and offered so romantically by young
French gentlemen, (possibly) elegant and debonaire.  The  Marseilles Hymn
was learned and sung by the citizens every where, to which they added the
American song of "Hail Liberty Supreme Delight".  Instrumental music
abounded in the city every where, by day as well as by night, from French
gentlemen, (may be) amateurs, of the hautboy, violin and clarinet,
exquisitely played --- and seemingly intended to catch the attention  of
neighbouring fair ones, at opposite windows".
   The gentlemen who wrote the articles "Lang Syne", which appeared
occasionally in Poulson's Advertiser in 1828-9, several of which are used in
this work, was the late William McKoy, first teller of the Bank of North
America.  Though scarcely known to the public as a writer, he had peculiar
qualifications for setting down the impress of his mind.  Being a thinking
and reading man, he had resources in himself for enriching and enlarging
every topic he touched.  His mind was full of poetic associations and
metaphorical imagery.
   Besides the articles of "Lang Syne", to some of which I had stimulated
his pen, --- he had written two books of "Characteristics" of his
contemporaries who were remarkable for character.  His remarks possessed
much harmless humour --- a humour which was peculiar to himself.  That they
were not published, in his lifetime, must have been wholly imputable to his
cautious, and instinctive aversion to inflicting any possible pain on
others; of them, he said, in a letter now before me, "the humour being only
local, is only to be relished within our walls; --- besides this, the
things, though truly told, and to be recognised as such by all observers,
yet as Hamlet says, "it might be slander to have it thus set down" --- There
may be hazard, to throw towards a hornet's nest".
   I once used to know every face belonging to Philadelphia, and of course,
was able to discern all strangers; but now I don't know Philadelphians as
such, in any mixed assembly --- all seem to me another, and an unknown
generation.  I am now amused and interested in seeing the changes on all
former known faces and persons, as they now have grown older --- the former
middle-aged are now aged, and all the former young, now give different
aspects from what they formerly did; persons that were thin, become fat or
gross, while some that were gross, now become spare and flaccid.  I might
extend my remarks also to the changes in houses and public edifices: --- and
here, I might say that I individually feel obliged and entertained, as I
pass along sundry streets, with the efforts made at their expense, to
interest and entertain my eye, with their new inventions all to please and
engross my regard.  I can feel something like a patriarch among his
children, in witnessing their change to what is indicative of their
advancement and prosperity.  In this way, I have the pleasure to feel, that
I have an interest in all I behold, and the city in its rising beauty and
grandeur, becomes a portion of my own "demesne".  Do not others, who like
myself are "passe", feel this?
   Finally, as a specimen of the luxurious state of society as now seen in
contrast with the simple manners of the past, we had gathered a few articles
of considerable length, intended to show modern life in its fashionable
features; but they are necessarily excluded by our wish to restrict the
volume to moderate bounds.  They were such tales in picturesque character as
we wished to see some day deduced from the materials gathered in this work,
to wit:  "Wintertime Parties" --- "Going into the Country" --- and "Leghorn
Bonnets".  Vide pages 487, 489 and 512, in my MS. Annals in the Historical
Society of Pennsylvania.

 Chapter 18.            APPAREL

          "We run through every change, which fancy
            At the loom has genius to supply".

   There is a very marked and wide difference between our moderns and the
ancients in their several views of appropriate dress.  The latter, in our
judgement of them, were always stiff and formal, unchanging in their cut and
fit in the gentry, or negligent and rough in texture in the commonalty;
whereas, the moderns, casting off all former modes and forms, and inventing
every new device which fancy can supply, just please the wearers "while the
fashion is at full".
   It will much help our just conceptions of our forefathers, and their good
dames, to know what were their personal appearances.   To this end, some
facts illustrative of their attire will be given.  Such as it was among the
gentry, was a constrained and painstaking service, presenting nothing of
ease and gracefulness in the use.  While we may wonder at its adoption and
long continuance, we will hope never again to see it return !  But who can
hope to check or restrain fashion if it should chance  again to set that
way; or, who can foresee that the next generation may not be even more stiff
and formal than any which has passed, since we see, even now, our late
graceful and easy habits of both sexes already partially supplanted by
"monstrous novelty and strange disguise!" --- men and women stiffly
corsetted --- another name for stays of yore, long unnatural-looking waists,
shoulders stuffed and deformed as Richard's, and artificial hips ---
protruding garment of as ample folds as claimed the ton when senseless hoops
prevailed !
   Our forefathers were excusable for their former cut, since, knowing no
changes in the mode, every child was like its sire, resting in "the still of
despotism", to which every mind by education and habit was settled; but no
such apology exists for us, who have witnessed better things.  We have been
freed from servitude; and now to attempt to go back to their strange
bondage, deserves the severest lash of satire, and should be resisted by
every satirist and humourist who writes for public reform.
   In all these things, however, we must be subject to female control; for,
reason as we will, and scout at monstrous novelties as we may, female
attractions will eventually win and seduce our sex to their attachment, "as
the loveliest of creation", in whatever form they may choose to array.  As
"it is not good for man to be alone", they will be sure to follow through
every giddy maze which fashion runs.  We know, indeed, that ladies
themselves are in bondage to their milliners, and often submit to their new
imported models with lively sense of dissatisfaction, even while they commit
themselves to the general current, and float along with the multitude.
   Our forefathers were occasionally fine practical satirists on offensive
innovations in dress --- they lost no time in paraphrastic verbiage which
might or might not effect its aim, but with most effective appeal to the
populace, they quickly carried their point, by making it the scoff and
derision of the town !  On one occasion, when the ladies were going astray
after a passion for long red cloaks, to which their lords had no affections,
they succeeded to ruin their reputation, by concerting with the executioners
to have a female felon hung in a cloak of the best ton !  On another
occasion, in the time of the Revolution, when the "tower" head-gear of the
ladies was ascending, Babel-like, to the skies, the growing enormity was
effectually repressed, by the parade through the streets of a tall, male
figure, in ladies' attire, decorated with the odious tower-gear, and
preceded by a drum !  At an earlier period, one of the intended dresses,
called a trollopee, (probably from the word trollop) became a subject of
offence.  The satirists, who guarded and framed the sumptuary code of the
town, procured the wife of Daniel Pettitteau the hangman, to be arrayed in
full dress trollopee &c., and to parade the town, with rude music !  Nothing
could stand the derision of the populace !  Delicacy and modesty shrunk from
the gaze and sneers of the multitude !  And the trollopee, like the others,
was abandoned !
   Mr. B___, a gentleman of 90 years of age, has given me his recollections
of the costumes of his early days in Philadelphia, to this effect, to wit:
Men wore three-square or cocked hats, and wigs, coats with large cuffs, big
skirts, lined and stiffened with buckram.  None ever saw a crown higher than
the head.  The coat of a beau had three or four large plaits in the skirts,
wadding almost like a coverlet to keep them smooth, cuffs, very large, up to
the elbows, open below and inclined down, with lead therein; the capes were
thin and low, so as readily to expose the close plaited neck-stock of fine
linen cambric, and the large silver stock-buckle on the back of the neck,
shirts with hand ruffles, sleeves finely plaited, breeches close fitted with
silver, stone or paste gem buckles, shoes or pumps with silver buckles of
various sizes and patterns;  worsted thread and silk stockings; the poorer
class wore sheep and buckskin breeches close set to the limbs.  Gold and
silver sleeve buttons, set with stones or paste, of various colours and
kinds, adorned the wrists of the shirts of all classes.  The very young boys
often wore wigs, and their dresses in general were similar to that of the men.
   The odious use of wigs was never disturbed till after the return of
Braddock's broken army.  They appeared in Philadelphia, wearing only their
natural hair --- a mode well adapted to the military, and thence adopted by
our citizens.  The king of England, too, about this time, having cast off
his wig malgre the will of the people, and the petitions and remonstrances
of the periwig makers of London,  confirmed the change of fashion here, and
completed the ruin of our wig makers.  [The use of wigs must have been
peculiarly an English fashion here, as I find Kalm in 1749, speaks of the
French gentlemen as wearing their own hair in Canada.]
   The women wore caps, (a bare head was never seen !) stiff stays, hoops
from six inches to two feet on each side, so that a full dressed lady
entered a door like a crab, pointing her obtruding flanks end foremost, high
heeled shoes of black stuff with white silk or thread stockings; and in the
miry times of winter they wore clogs, galoshes, or pattens.
   The days of stiff coats, sometimes wire-framed, and of large hoops, was
also stiff and formal in manners at set balls and assemblages.  The dances
of that day among the politer class were minuets, and sometimes country
dances; among the lower order hipsesaw was every thing.
   As soon as the wigs were abandoned and the natural hair was cherished, it
became the mode to dress it by plaiting it, by queuing and clubbing, or by
wearing it in a black silk sack or bag, adorned with a large black rose.
   In time the powder, with which wigs and the natural hair had been
severally adorned, was run into disrepute only about thirty-eight to forty
years ago, by the then strange innovation of "Brutus heads"; not only then
discarding the long cherished powder and perfume and tortured frizzle-work,
but also literally becoming "Round heads", by cropping off all the pendant
graces of ties, bobs, clubs, queues, &c.!  The hardy beaux who first
encountered public opinion by appearing abroad unpowdered and cropt, had
many starers.  The old men for a time obstinately persisted in adherence to
the old regime, but death thinned their ranks, and use and prevalence of
numbers at length gave countenance to modern usage.
   Another aged gentleman, Colonel M. states, of the recollections of his
youth, that young men of the highest fashion wore swords --- so frequent it
was as to excite no surprise when seen.  Men as old as forty so arrayed
themselves.  They wore also gold laced cocked hats, and similar lace on
their scarlet vests.  Their coat-skirts were stiffened with wire or buckram
and lapped each other at the lower end in walking.  In that day no man wore
drawers, but their breeches (so called unreservedly then) were lined in
winter, and were tightly fitted.  Very few then could get coats to "set in"
at the back.
   From various reminiscents we glean, that laced ruffles, depending over
the hand, was a mark of indispensable gentility.  The coat and breeches were
generally desirable of the same material --- of "broad cloth" for winter,
and of silk camlet for summer.  No kind of cotton fabrics were then in use
or known; hose were, therefore, of thread or silk in summer, and of fine
worsted in winter; shoes were square-toed and were often "double
channelled".  To these succeeded sharp toes as peaked as possible.  When
wigs were universally worn, gray wigs were powdered, and for that purpose
sent in a wooden box frequently to the barber to be dressed on his block
head.  But "brown wigs", so called, were exempted from the white disguise.
Coats of red cloth, even by boys, were considerably worn, and plush breeches
and plush vests of various colours, shining and slipping, were in common
use.  Everlasting, made of worsted, was a fabric of great use for breeches
and sometimes for vests. The vest had great depending pocket-flaps, and the
breeches were very short above the stride, because the art of suspending
them by suspenders was unknown.  It was then the test of a well formed man,
that he could by his natural form readily keep his breeches above his hips,
and his stockings, without gartering, above the calf of the leg.  With the
queues belonged frizzled sidelocks, and toupes formed of the natural hair,
or in defect of a long tie, a splice was added to it.  Such was the general
passion for the longest possible whip of hair, that sailors and boatmen, to
make it grow, used to tie theirs in eel skins to aid its growth.  Nothing
like surtouts were known; but they had coating or cloth great coats, or blue
cloth and brown camlet cloaks, with green baize lining to the latter.  In
the time of the American war, many of the American officers introduced the
use of Dutch blankets for great coats.  The sailors in the olden time used
to wear hats of glazed leather or of woollen thrumbs, called chapeaux,
closely woven, and looking like a rough knap; and their "small clothes", as
we would say now, were immense wide petticoat-breeches, wide open at the
knees, and no longer.  About eighty years ago our workingmen in the country
were the same, having no falling flaps but slits in front; they were so full
and free in girth, that they ordinarily changed the rear to the front when
the seat became prematurely worn out.  In sailors and common people, big
silver brooches in the bosom were displayed, and long quartered shoes with
extreme big buckles on the extreme front.
   Gentlemen in the olden time used to carry mufftees in winter.  It was in
effect a little woolen muff of various colors just big enough to admit both
hands, and long enough to screen the wrists which were then more exposed
than now; for they then wore short sleeves to their coats purposely to
display their fine linen and plaited shirt sleeves with their gold buttons
and sometimes laced ruffles.  The sleeve-cuffs were very wide, and hung down
depressed with leads in them.
   In the summer season, men very often wore calico morning-gowns at all
times of the day and abroad in the streets. A damask banyan was much the
same thing by another name.  Poor labouring men wore ticklenberg linen for
shirts, and striped ticken breeches; they wore gray duroy-coats in winter;
men and boys always wore leather breeches.  Leather aprons were used by all
tradesmen and workmen.
   Some of the peculiarities of the female dress was to the following
effect, to wit:  Ancient ladies are still alive who have rold me that they
often had their hair tortured for four hours at a sitting in getting the
proper crisped curls of a hair curler.  Some who designed to be inimitably
captivating, not knowing they could be sure of professional services where
so many hours were occupied upon one gay head, have actually had the
operation performed the day before it was required, then have slept all
night in a sitting posture to prevent the derangement of their frizzle and
curls !  This is a real fact, and we could, if questioned, name cases.  They
were, of course, rare occurrences, proceeding from some extra occasions,
when there were several to serve, and but few such refined hair dressers in
the place.
   This formidable head work was succeeded by rollers over which the hair
was combed back from the forehead.  These again were superseded by cushions
and artificial curled work, which could be sent out to the barber's block,
like a wig, to be dressed, leaving the lady at home to pursue other objects
--- thus producing a grand reformation in the economy of time, and an
exemption too from former durance vile.  The dress of the day was not
captivating to all, as the following lines may show, viz:

Give Chloe a bushel of horse hair and wool,
Of paste and pomatum a pound,
Ten yards of gay ribbon to deck her sweet skull,
And gauze to encompass it round.

Let her flags fly behind for a yard at the least,
Let her curls meet just under her chin,
Let these curls be supported, to keep up the jest,
With an hundred --- instead of one pin.

Let her gown be tuck'd up to the hip on each side,
Shoes too high for to walk or to jump,
And to deck the sweet creature complete for a bride
Let the cork-cutter make her a rump.

Thus finish'd in taste, while on Chloe you gaze,
You may take the dear charmer for life,
But never undress her --- for, out of her stays
You'll find you have lost half your wife !

   When the ladies first began to lay off their cumbrous hoops, they
supplied their place with successive succedaneums, such as these, to wit :
First came bishops --- a thing stuffed or padded with horse hair; then
succeeded by a smaller affair under the name of "cue de Paris", also padded
with horse hair !  How it abates our admiration to contemplate the lovely
sex as bearing a roll of horse hair or a cut of cork under their garments !
Next they supplied their place with silk or calimanco, or russell thickly
quilted and inlaid with wool, made into petticoats; then these were
supplanted by a substitute of half a dozen petticoats.  No wonder such
ladies needed fans in a sultry summer, and at a time when parasols were
unknown, to keep off the solar rays !  I knew a lady going to a gala party
who had so large a hoop that when she sat in the chaise she so filled it up,
that the person who drove it (it had no top) stood up behind the box and
directed the reins !
   Some of those ancient belles, who thus sweltered under the weight of six
petticoats, have lived to see their posterity, not long since, go so thin
and transparent,  a la Francaise,  especially when between the beholder and
a declining sun, as to make a modest eye sometimes instinctively avert its
gaze !
   Among some other articles of female wear we may name the following, to
wit: Once they wore "a skimmer hat", made of a fabric which shone like
silver tinsel; it was of a very small flat crown and big brim, not unlike
the late Leghorn flats.  Another hat, not unlike it in shape, was made of
woven horse hair, wove in flowers, and called "horse hair bonnets", --- an
article which might be again usefully introduced for children's wear as an
enduring hat for long service.  I have seen what was called a bath bonnet,
made of black satin, and so constructed to lay in folds that it could be set
upon like a chapeau bras ---  good article now for travelling ladies !  "The
musk melon" bonnet, used before the Revolution, had numerous whalebone
stiffeners in the crown, set at an inch apart in parallel lines and
presenting ridges to the eye, between the bones.  The next bonnet was the
"whalebone bonnet", having only the bones in front as stiffeners.  "A calash
bonnet" was always formed of green silk; it was worn abroad, covering the
head, but when in rooms it could fall back in folds like the springs of a
calash or gig top; to keep it up over the head it was drawn up by a cord
always held in the hand of the wearer.  The "wagon bonnet", always of black
silk, was an article exclusively in use among the Friends, was deemed to
look, on the head, not unlike the top of the Jersey wagons, and having a
pendent piece of like silk hanging from the bonnet and covering the
shoulders.  The only straw wear was that called the "straw beehive bonnet",
worn generally by old people.
   The ladies once wore "hollow breasted stays", which were exposed as
injurious to the health.  Then came the use of straight stays.  Even little
girls wore such stays.  At one time the gowns worn had no fronts; the design
was to display a finely quilted Marseilles, silk or satin petticoat, and a
bare stomacher on the waist. In other dresses a white apron was the mode;
all wore large pockets under their gowns.  Among the caps was the "queen's
nightcap" --- the same always worn by Lady Washington.  The "cushion head
dress" was of gauze stiffened out in cylindrical form with white spiral
wire.  The border of the cap was called the balcony.
   A lady of my acquaintance thus describes the recollections of her early
days preceding the war of Independence. --- Dress was discriminative and
appropriate, both as regarded the season and the character of the wearer.
Ladies never wore the same dresses at work and on visits; they sat at
home, or went out in the morning in chintz;  brocades, satins, and mantuas,
were reserved for evening or dinner parties.  Robes, or negligees, as they
were called, were always worn in full dress.  Muslins were not worn at all.
Little misses at a dancing school ball (for these were almost the only fetes
that fell to their share in the days of discrimination) were dressed in
frocks of lawn or cambric.  Worsted was then thought dress enough for common
days.

   As a universal fact, it may be remarked that no other colour than black
was ever made for ladies' bonnets when formed of silk or satin.  Fancy
colours were unknown, and white bonnets of silk fabric had never been seen.
The first innovation remembered, was the bringing in of blue bonnets.
   The time was, when the plainest women among the Friends (now so averse to
fancy colours) wore their coloured silk aprons, say, of green, blue, &c.
This was at a time when the gay wore white aprons.  In time, white aprons
were disused by the gentry, and then the Friends left off their coloured
ones and used the white !  The same old ladies, among Friends whom we can
remember as wearers of the white aprons, wore also large white beaver hats,
with scarcely the sign of a crown, and which was, indeed, confined to the
head by silk cords tied under the chin.  Eight dollars would buy such a hat,
when beaver fur was more plentiful.  They lasted such ladies almost a whole
life of wear.  They showed no fur.
   Very decent women went abroad and to churches with check aprons.  I have
seen those, who kept their coach in my time to bear them to church, who told
me they went on foot with a check apron to the Arch Street Presbyterian
meeting in their youth.  Then all hired women wore shortgowns and petticoats
of domestic fabric, and could be instantly known as such whenever seen abroad.
  In the former days it was not uncommon to see aged persons with large
silver buttons to their coats and vests --- it was a mark of wealth.  Some
had the initials of their names engraved on each button.  Sometimes they
were made out of real quarter dollars, with the coinage impression still
retained --- these were used for the coats, and the eleven-penny-bits for
vests and breeches.  My father wore an entire suit decorated with conch
shell buttons, silver mounted.
   An aged gentleman, O. J., Esq., told me of seeing one of the most
respectable gentlemen going to the ball room in Lodge Alley, in an entire
suit of drab cloth richly laced with silver.
   On the subject of wigs, I have noticed the following special facts, to
wit:  They were as generally worn by genteel Friends as by any other people.
This was the more surprising as they religiously professed to exclude all
superfluities, and yet nothing could have been offered to the mind as so
essentially useless. [The Friends have, however, a work in their library,
written against perukes and their makers, by John Mulliner.]
   In the year 1685, William Penn writes to his steward, James Harrison,
requesting him to allow the Governor, Lloyd, his deputy the use of his wigs
in his absence.
   In the year 1719, Jonathan Dickinson, a Friend, in writing to London for
his clothes, says, "I want for myself and my three sons, each a wig ---
light good bobs".
   In 1730, I see a public advertisement to this effect in the Gazette, to
wit: "A good price will be given for good clean white horse hair, by William
Crossthwaite, perukemaker".  Thus showing of what materials our forefathers
got their white wigs !
   In 1737, the perukes of the day as then sold, were thus described, to wit
:  "Tyes, bobs, majors, spencers, foxtails, and twists, together with curls
or tates (tetes) for the ladies."
   In the year 1765, another perukemaker advertises prepared hair for
judges' full bottomed wigs, tyes for gentlemen of the bar to wear over their
hair, brigadiers' dress bobs, bags, cues, scratches, cut wigs, &c.; and to
accommodate ladies he has tates (tetes), towers, &c.  At the same time a
staymaker advertises cork stays, whalebone stays, jumps, and easy caushets,
thin boned Misses' and ladies' stays, and pack thread stays !
   Some of the advertisements of the olden time present some curious
descriptions of masquerade attire, such as these, viz:
   Year 1722 --- Ranaway from the Rev. D. Magill, a servant clothed with
damask breeches and vest, black broad cloth vest, a broad cloth coat of
copper colour, lined and trimmed with black, and wearing black stockings !
Another servant is described as wearing leather breeches and glass buttons,
black stockings, and a wig !
   In 1724, a runaway barber is thus dressed, viz: --- Wore a light wig, a
gray kersey jacket lined with blue, a light pair of drugget breeches, black
roll-up stockings, square-toed shoes, a red leathern apron. He had also
white vest and yellow buttons, with red linings !
   Another run-away servant is described as wearing "a light short wig,"
aged 20 years; his vest white with yellow buttons and faced with red !
   A poetic effusion of a lady, of 1725, describing her paramour, thus
designates the dress which most seizes upon her admiration as a ball guest:

    "Mine, a tall youth, shall at a ball be seen
     Whose legs are like the spring, all cloth'd in green;
     A yellow riband ties his long cravat,
     And a large knot of yellow cocks his hat !"

   We have even an insight into the wardrobe of Benjamin Franklin, in the
year 1738, caused by his advertisement for stolen clothes, to wit:
"Broadcloth breeches lined with leather, sagathee coat lined with silk, and
fine homespun linen shirts".
   From one advertisement of the year 1745, I take the following, now
unintelligible articles of dress --- all of them presented for sale too,
even for the ladies, on Fishbourne's wharf, "back of Mrs. Fishbourne's
dwelling", to wit:  "Tandems, isinghams, nuns, bag, and gulix, (these all
mean shirting) huckabacks, (a figured worsted for women's gowns) quilted
humhums, turkettees, grassetts, single allopeens, children's stays, jumps
and bodice, whalebone and iron busks, men's new-market caps, silk and
worsted wove patterns for breeches, allibanies, dickmansoy, cushloes,
chuckloes, cuttanees, crimson dannador, chained soosees, lemonees,
byrampants, moree, naffermamy, saxlingham, prunelloe, barragons, druggets,
florettas" &c., &c.
   A gentleman of Cheraw, South Carolina, has now in his possession an
ancient cap, worn in the colony of New Netherlands about 160 years ago, such
as may have been worn by some of the Chieftains among the Dutch rulers set
over us.  The crown is of elegant yellowish brocade, the brim of crimson
silk velvet, turned up to the crown.  It is elegant even now.
   In the year 1749, I met with the incidental mention of a singular
overcoat, worn by Captain James, as a stormcoat, made entirely of beaver
fur, wrought together in the manner of felting hats.
   I have seen two fans, used as dress fans before the Revolution, which
cost eight dollars a piece.  They were of ivory frame and pictured paper.
What is curious in them is, that the sticks fold up round as a cane.
   Before the Revolution no hired men or women wore any shoes so fine as
calf skin; that kind was the exclusive property of the gentry; the servants
wore coarse neat's leather.  The calfskin shoe then had a white rand of
sheep skin stitched into the top edge of the sole, which they preserved
white as a dress shoe as long as possible.  All wives of tradesmen, wore
shortgowns of green baize --- the same their daughters too.
   We feel disposed to make one remark upon females and their dresses, the
truth of which we are sure will be confirmed by every one who is now old
enough to have seen the ladies of the last century.  It is, that they were
decidedly of better form in the fullness of their chests, and the uprightness
of their backs and shoulders.  A round-shouldered lady was not to be seen,
unless she was such by ill health or accidental deformity.  You never saw
such a thing on them as a "misfit" in the back; not a wrinkle or pucker
therein was to be noticed. One reason for this was, that all their dresses
were closed in the back, and all their pinnings and fastenings were in the
front of the body;  and at one time, in some dresses, on the side, with an
overlap.  At that time, the ladies wore their necks and chests nearly bare,
and always visible under a thin transparent gauze --- their bosoms were
their ornaments, and their chests were so full, as visibly to show the
heavings of the bosom, a thing certainly rarely observed in any modern
belle.  Such females, had of course no need of artificial paddings.  If the
construction of modern dress has had the effect to destroy this natural
characteristic of the female form, is it not time to operate a change back
again to olden time principles?  What will the doctors say?  It is deserving
of remark, that no females formerly showed any signs of crumpled toes or
corns.  They were exempted from such deformities and ills, from two causes
to wit:  their shoes were of pliable woven stuff, satin, lastings, &c., and
by wearing high heels, they so pressed upon the balls of their feet, as
necessarily to give the flattest and easiest expansion to their toes; while,
in walking, at the same time, they were prevented from any undue spread in
width, by their piked form.  There was therefore, some good sense in the
choice of those high heels, now deemed so unfitting for pretty feet, that
has been overlooked.  In a word, ladies then could pinch their feet with
impunity, and had no shoes to run down at the heels.
   It was very common for children and working women to wear beads made of
Job's tears, a berry of a shrub.  They used them for economy, and said it
prevented several diseases.
   Until the period of the Revolution, every person who wore a fur hat had
it always of entire beaver.  Every apprentice, at receiving his "freedom",
received a real beaver at a cost of six dollars.  Their every day hats were
of wool, and called felts.  What were called roram hats, being fur faced
upon wool felts, came into use directly after the peace, and excited much
surprise as to the invention.  Gentlemen's hats, of entire beaver,
universally cost eight dollars.
   The use of lace veils to ladies' faces is but a modern fashion, not of
more than twenty or thirty years' standing.  Now they wear black, white, and
green --- the last only lately introduced as a summer veil.  In olden time,
none wore a veil but as a mark and badge of mourning, and then, as now, of
crape, in preference to lace.
   Ancient ladies remembered a time in their early life, when the ladies
wore blue stockings and party coloured clocks of very striking appearance.
May not that fashion, as an extreme ton of the upper circle in life, explain
the adoption of the term, "Blue stocking Club?"  I have seen with Samuel
Coates, Esq., the wedding silk stockings of his grandmother, of a lively
green, and great red clocks.  My grandmother wore in winter very fine
worsted green stockings with a gay clock surmounted with a bunch of tulips.
   The late President, Thomas Jefferson, when in Philadelphia, on his first
mission abroad, was dressed in the garb of his day after this manner, to
wit: He wore a long waisted white cloth  coat, scarlet breeches and vest, a
cocked hat, shoes and buckles, and white silk hose.
   When President Hancock first came to Philadelphia, as president of the
first Congress, he wore a scarlet coat and cocked hat with a black cockade.
   Even spectacles, permanently useful as they are, have been subjected to
the caprices of fashion.  Now they are occasionally seen of gold --- a thing
I never saw in my youth; neither did I ever see one young man with
spectacles -- now so numerous !  A purblind or half - sighted youth then
deemed it his positive disparagement to be so regarded.  Such would have
rather run against a street post six times a day, than have been seen with
them !  Indeed, in early olden time they had not the art of using temple
spectacles.  Old Mrs. Shoemaker, who died in 1825 at the age of 95, said
that she had lived many years in Philadelphia before she ever saw temple
spectacles --- a name then given as a new discovery, but now so common as to
have lost its distinctive character.  In her early years the only spectacles
she ever saw were called "bridge spectacles", without any side supporters,
and held on the nose solely by nipping the bridge of the nose.  Such as
these, were first invented in 1280.  What a time for those whose "eyes were
dim with age!" before that era !  happily, they had no reading then to manage.
   My grandmother wore a black velvet mask in winter, with a silver
mouth-piece to keep it on, by retaining it in the mouth.  I have been told
that green ones have been used in summer for some few ladies, for riding in
the sun on horseback.
   Ladies formerly wore cloaks as their chief overcoats; they were used with
some changes of form under the successive names of roquelaus, capuchins, and
cardinals.
   In Mrs. Shoemaker's time, above named, they had no knowledge of umbrellas
to keep off rain, but she had seen some few use quitasols --- an article as
small as present parasols.  They were entirely to keep off rain from ladies.
They were of oiled muslin, and were of various colours, from India by way of
England.  They must, however, have been but rare, as they never appear in
any advertisements.  Their name is derived from the Spanish.
   Doctor Chanceller and the Rev. Mr. Duche'  were the first persons in
Philadelphia who were ever seen to wear umbrellas to keep off the rain.
They were of oiled linen, very coarse and clumsy, with rattan sticks.
Before their time, some doctors and ministers used an oiled linen cape
hooked round their shoulders, looking not unlike the big coat-capes now in
use, and then called a roquelaue. It was only used for severe storms.
   About the year 1771, the first efforts were made in Philadelphia to
introduce the use of umbrellas in summer as a defence from the sun.  They
were then scouted in the public Gazette as a ridiculous effeminacy.  On the
other hand, the physicians recommended them to keep off vertigoes,
epilepsies, sore eyes, fevers, &c.  Finally, as the doctors were their chief
patrons, Doctor Chamberlain and Doctor Morgan, with the Rev. Parson Duche',
were the first persons who had the hardihood to be so singular as to wear
umbrellas in sunshine.  Mr. Bingham, when he returned from the West Indies,
where he had amassed a great fortune in the Revolution, appeared abroad in
the streets attended by a mulatto boy bearing his umbrella.  But his example
did not take, and he desisted from its use.
   In the old time, shagreen-cased watches, of turtle shell and pinchbeck,
were the earliest kind seen; but watches of any kind were much more rare
then.  When they began to come into use, they were so far deemed a matter of
pride and show, that men are living who
have heard public Friends express their concern at seeing their youth in the
show of watches or watch chains.  It was so rare to find watches in common
use that it was quite an annoyance at the watchmakers to be so repeatedly
called on by street passengers for the hour of the day.  Mr. Duffield,
therefore, first set up an outdoor clock to give the time of day to people
in the street.  Gold chains would have been a wonder then; silver and steel
chains and seals were the mode, and regarded good enough.  The best
gentlemen of the country were content with silver watches, although gold
ones were occasionally used.  Gold watches for ladies were of rare
occurrence, and when worn, were kept without display for domestic use.
   The men of former days never saw such things as our Mahomedan whiskers on
Christian men : but since then our young men have turned cultivators of
whiskers, mustachios and sidelocks for street display, and for the Chestnut
Street and Broadway markets.  That men of no particular business should so
parade themselves, might pass; but when it comes to business men who have to
live by their employments, it is then we perceive the glaring incongruity,
and cannot forbear to wish them unbarbed and uncorsetted, and especially in
business houses.  The over-weening fondness of some for these satyr-like
appendages of manhood, presents an admirable measuring reed, whereby to
ascertain the calibre of minds.  In mixed companies, it may afford, to the
considerate, a positive amusement to look around and note the differences of
men's attachment to such things.  Some may be observed, as direct, though
silent, protestors against the innovation, by their close shaving, as if
they meant, thereby, to publish that they set in inverse opposition; while,
at the same time, others indicate their morbid regard for what seems so
"outre" and extreme.  Intellectual men, it is observed, are rarely found in
this array, unless they also have occasionally some known obliquity of the
imagination and taste.  It is also a curious fact, that any thing so
disagreeable in itself to sight and wear, should be chiefly countenanced by
the ladies !  but so it is; and what is more, some of the wearers have far
less liking for the hairy deformity, than for flaunting with the superficial
belles who advocate them.  The same remarks might be equally extended to the
blowze cut and lengthened sidelocks of the hair of the head.  But there is
enough for passing remark, and to preserve the record of these passing
caprices of ungainly fashion.  To "note and observe" is our motto.
   The use of boots has come in since the war of Independence; they were
first with black tops, after the military, strapped up in union with the
knee bands; afterwards bright tops were introduced.  The leggings to these
latter were made of buckskin, for some extreme beaux, for the sake of close
fitting a well turned leg.
   It having been the object of these pages to notice the change of fashions
in the habiliments of men and women from the olden to the modern time, it
may be necessary to say, that no attempt has been made to note the quick
succession of modern changes --- precisely because they are too rapid and
evanescent for any useful record.  The subject, however, leads me to the
general remark, that the general character of our dress is always ill
adapted to our climate; and this fact arises from our national predilection
as English.  As English colonists we early introduced the modes of our
British ancestors.  They derived their notions of dress from France; and we,
even now, take all annual fashions from the ton of England - a circumstance
which leads us into many unseasonable and injurious imitations, very ill
adapted to either our hotter or colder climate.  Here we have the extremes
of heat and cold.  There they are moderate.  The loose and light habits of
the East, or of southern Europe, would be better adapted to the ardour  of
our mid-summers; and the close and warm apparel of the north of Europe might
furnish us better examples for our severe winters.
   But in these matters (while enduring the profuse sweating of ninety
degrees of heat) we fashion after the modes of England, which are adapted to
a climate of but seventy degrees !  Instead, therefore, of the broad
slouched hat of southern Europe, we have the narrow brim, a stiff stock or
starched-buckram collar for the neck, a coat so close and tight as if glued
to our skins, and boots so closely set over insteps and ankles, as if over
the lasts on which they were made !  Our ladies have as many ill adapted
dresses and hats, and sadly their healths are impaired in our rigorous
winters, by their thin stuff-shoes and transparent and light draperies,
affording but slight defence for tender frames against the cold.
   Since the publication of the former edition, we have gathered and
conclude to add the following additional notices under this head, to wit:
   The article in my former Annals on dress, (p. 171) was scarcely
published, when, notwithstanding the hint there given, the fashion began to
run again into "monstrous novelty and strange disguise". The words then were
"while we may wonder at the stiff and formal cut of the old fashions, we
will hope never to see them again return !"  They did return quickly,
showing corsetted long waists, big skirts, and monstrous sleeves !  These
latter held their empire till the winter of 1836-7, and then tight sleeves
came back as suddenly as if they had come in under a legal decree and
penalty.  The sudden change was then so suitable and humourously noticed,
that I here affix a specimen, to wit:

   "It is somewhat refreshing, as the fashionable novelists used to say, to
perceive the sudden and effectual banishment that has been decreed and
carried into execution, against those vast, unsightly, ridiculous and
immense bags, which it has been the pleasure of the ladies, bless their
hearts !  to insist upon our recognising as sleeves for the last three or
four years.  The perverse obstinacy of Petruchio was not more unreasonable,
when he made the unhappy and starving Catherine swear that the pale moon was
in truth "the blessed sun"; and perhaps, it was from him that the hint was
borrowed.  Be that as it may, they are gone, bag and baggage, and our belles
are no longer compelled to walk the streets, as though suffering the
penalties of justice, with eight or ten pounds of silk, chally,
gros-de-something, muslin, merino, Circassian, Canton crape, barege white
satin, printed calico, or pelisse-cloth, dangling from each shoulder; or to
exhibit themselves with a pair of feather pillows stuck upon each side of
their graceful figures, and far surpassing them in magnitude.  The day of
five feet high and six feet wide is gone, we trust, forever, and
henceforward, we hope to see the beautiful of our race resembling somewhat
more in appearance the model in which nature formed them, and which French
milliners have so long succeeded in keeping out of fashion".

   The transition has been, as usual in fashionable matters, somewhat
violent; the poet's notion of "fine by degrees and beautifully less", has
not been thought of; but where there was yesterday a bale, there is to-day a
spermaceti candle; the ten yards of last night are replaced this morning by
some half ell, or perhaps a quarter.  One lady was a sufficient occupant, a
week ago, for the seat of a moderate sized carriage; now three may ride
right pleasantly in company.  Arms are at a tremendous discount, compared
with what they have been; and shoulders are like India rubber balls, with
the air let out through a pin hole.  All this looks queer just now, and may
stay looking queer for some time yet, but after a while our eyes will
receive their right tone, and then we shall applaud the change most
heartily.  Nevertheless, we beseech our fair readers not to run to the other
extreme, and compress the arm entirely up to the shoulder, as some have
already done, thereby giving themselves somewhat the resemblance of the
undressed dolls in the packages of Bailly and Ward; or like a giblet-pie ---
all wings and no legs.
   Fashion rules the world, and a most tyrannical mistress she is,
compelling people to submit to the most inconvenient things imaginable, for
fashion's sake.  She pinches our feet with tight shoes, or chokes us with a
tight neck-handkerchief, or squeezes the breath out of our body by tight
lacing; she makes people sit up late by night when they ought to be in bed,
and keeps them in bed in the morning when they ought to be up and doing.
She makes it vulgar to wait upon one's self, and genteel to live idle and
useless. She makes people visit when they would rather stay at home, eat
when they are not hungry, and drink when they are not thirsty.  She is a
despot of the highest grade, full of intrigue and cunning, and yet husbands,
wives, fathers, mothers, sons and daughters, and servants, black and white,
voluntarilly have become her obedient servants and slaves, and vie with one
another, to see who shall be the most obsequious !
   The daughter of a merchant of my acquaintance, who was married at
Philadelphia in 1835, had her wedding wardrobe furnished at a cost of 1000
dollars; her robe was fringed with gold, her pocket handkerchief, by reason
of its gold hem and decoration, cost 30 dollars !  What an advance of style
since the war of Independence !  This too, for a republican commoner; ---
for one who passed his hours on wharves, among sailors, and draymen, and
casks, bags and boxes --- sun-scorched, dusty and wearied !  "What a falling
off was there !"  The course is, however, still "onward".  Another merchant,
paid 300 dollars at a store in Chestnut street, for three veils for three
daughters.  They ride or walk in Chestnut street like princesses; and he,
good man of labour, grinds pennies from stocks and transfers, by slavish
toil in a close, dark, dingy counting house !  The same class of persons pay
now one dollar an hour for three or four successive teachers a day, for
music, French, Italian, dancing, &c.  Only fifty years since, Anthony
Benezet taught real ladies a whole quarter for the same money !
  Wigs, it is ascertained, were first originated in France, as may be seen
by the chronological tables.  Perukes, for instance, "first used in 1620";
"wigs for judges first worn in 1674"; and "hair-powder first used in 1590".
Pindar speaks of wigs in the case of the annoyance in his Majesty's kitchen,
and their disuse may be considered as still later.  Judge McKean wore one,
and was withal so partial to them that he intended to wear one of the Bench
kind.  He engaged one of Kid for 100 dollars, and being found, when
delivered, to be so strange and outre, he refused it, and was sued for the
value.
   I have said in the former edition, that in my boyhood days no young men
or women were seen using spectacles whilst walking in the streets, and now
they are so numerous !  We may judge, even now, how useless they may be, by
the fact, that at this time, no man sees any coloured person who uses them !
It can't be that the two races are so essentially different; it must be the
result of fashion rather than otherwise; and that by the non-use of them the
eyes which may have been near sighted in youth, accommodate themselves in
time to avoid it.  It was then not uncommon to see men puckering up their
eyes and looking queer, because they were near sighted.  I remember several.
   Ladies' shoes 60 or 70 years ago were made mostly of white or russet
rands, stitched very fine on the rand with white waxed thread; and all
having wooden heels, called cross cut, common, and court heels; [now the
heelmakers are "non est" !]  Next came in the use of cork, plug, and wedge
or spring heels.  The sole leather was all worked, with the flesh side out.
The materials of the uppers in the olden time, among us, were of common
woolen cloth, or coarse curried leather --- afterwards of stuffs, such as
cassimere, everlasting, shalloon, and russet; some of satin and damask,
others of satin lasting and florentine.
   All elderly gentlemen had gold headed canes.  It was their mark of
distinction.  Seeing that they were once so general, it is matter of
curiosity now, to ask what may have become of the many, now no longer seen !
It was usual to see them in the churches and other public places, used
ostensibly as a support to the chin when sitting; but often times from
motives of vanity, as a badge of expensive ability.  It was a pride of the
same kind, which gave favour and use to gold snuff boxes, and to the free
proffering of their contents, to the persons near.  Silas Deane, it is
remembered, had one, a present from royalty, which he was very proud of
displaying with its diamonds.  This was so manifest to Charles Thomson, his
familiar friend, that he once broke out upon him in full laugh for his
manner of urging it upon his notice !
   A writer in the Gazette, of 1769, says, "Will the ladies take a law of
fashion from such a wanton tyranny of example as is imposed on them by Great
Britain?  The decent gown which showed the form of the sex in all its native
elegance is banished, to give place to negligees, using many yards of costly
silk, cut into pieces with the most licentious profusion --- they have
things flapping down on each side which look as if the ladies had turned a
most monstrous pair of silk pockets inside out, and drawn them through their
pocket holes.  The hinder part seems contrived by an upholsterer, for it is
as a curtain drawn up --- and for the front, how monstrous is the elegant
fall of the petticoat deformed with flounces of massacred silk !  Oh !
barbarous murder both of beauty and materials !"   How very remarkable it
is, that in every age the men have always been the only critics upon the
female dress, and always with so little head way against the tide of
encroaching fashion !  The ladies, it would seem, had rather lose the men
than lose the mode; and in the end, the men had rather take all as they find
them, than miss them as brides !
   With a view to show that we are not alone in the interest we feel in
giving such notices of the passing changes in dress and the vagaries of
fashion in altering them, we here add a couple of facetious notices of
fleeting transitions of gentlemen themselves, even within the memory of the
present writer, to wit : ---
   One, calling himself a beau of the last century, for the century is not
long passed, says, that although he does not mean to represent himself as a
gallant during the Revolution, or that he was old enough to carry arms in
Shays rebellion, yet says he, "I was most certainly born, and made some
advance in "belles lettres"; that is to say, in A. B. C., &c., before the
commencement of the nineteenth century, and had acquired a pretty
considerable many notions of the fitness of things before midnight of
December 31st 1799, which is now very generally admitted, by historians and
chronologers of the present day, to be about the last that was seen of the
eighteenth century.  I have consequently lived to see many mighty
revolutions in kingdoms and states, and I have also lived to see many
mightier and more important changes in fashion and dress.  I have seen
periwigs, buckskin breeches and waistcoats, or in modern sartorial
phraseology, vests, with flaps and low descending pockets reaching to the
knees, drop quietly into the grave.  I have seen coats, cut after a pattern
of the middle of the eighteenth century, with scarcely any collar, and I
have seen them succeeded, in the early part of the nineteenth, by coats with
little beside the collar; coats the apex of whose collar towered above and
overlooked the apex of the wearer.  I have seen Hessian boots, Suwarrow
boots, white top boots, swell back boots, laced boots start into existence
and start out of it.  I came into the world as the first generation of
square toed boots were about going out of it; and my feet are, at this
moment, after an interval of ___ years, no matter how many, incased in a
pair of square toes No. 2.  I have witnessed the birth and death of two
distinct races of sharp toed shoes.  I have seen them both kick up a dust in
a ball room; and then, thank heaven, kick the bucket.  I have worn out many
a pair of round-toed shoes, and do not despair of wearing out many more as
soon as they come in fashion again.  In the year 1817, I bought in the East
Indies, a second hand vest sold by its owner because it was out of fashion;
I have it yet, and it is nearly as good as new, although it has been in and
out of fashion five times respectively since I bought it".
   "But in a few years since, the snow-white and nicely plaited ruffle was
prevented from fluttering in the breeze by the jewelled  breast -  pin; and
now, wherever I go abroad, I see the idealess, soulless, worshippers of
fashion, as carefully hiding every appearance of linen, whether clean or
dirty, as a fashionable belle does a gray hair or a freckle, a hole in her
stocking, or a flaw in her reputation.  An Englishman and a Frenchman
disputing upon the comparative improvements their respective nations had
made in dress --- "Sare," said the exterminator of frogs, "in la belle
France we have invent de roffel, one grand ornament for de hand".  "Very
true", responded the sturdy Briton, "but we English have improved upon your
invention, for we have added a shirt to your ruffle".
   "But alas !  "the glory is departed" from among us of inventing the
shirt.  Fashion has decreed that the very name of "shirt" like petticoat ---
my fashionable paper blushes with fashionable modesty, as I write the words
so near to each other on its pure surface --- is indecent and not fit to be
used by "good society", and even were that not the case, the word must soon
perforce become obsolete, because the thing that the word represents has
ceased to exist among the votaries of that despotic goddess.  Catching
inspiration and enthusiasm from the spirit of reform and retrenchment that
has invaded the cabinet old and new, of General Jackson, and that
characterizes the councils of William the IV ;  the worshippers of Fashion
have at one blow lopped away the entire garment, substituting false
wristbands and false bosoms, flinging at the feet of the weeping genius of
banished cleanliness, "the empty and bloody skin of the immolated victims".
Here, it was to be hoped, would have ceased the destruction, but no, the
demon of Fashion and Folly issued another decree, and also collars, and
false wristbands, even paper ones disappeared --- the false bosom did,
indeed, struggle, and gasp for breath, but it was the feeble and ineffectual
writhing of a sickly calf in the folds of the Boa Constrictor --- after a
double-breasted vest, and the false bosom was no more, even that "horrible
shadow" that "unreal mockery", vanished in eternal night.  Stocks rose, not
U.S. 5 per cent., for 1836, nor Ohio sixes, but neck stocks, and the false
collar, left its post on the cheek bone of the exquisite, the dickey ceased
to excoriate the lobe of the dandy's ear, the false wristband, whether of
paper or well starched cotton, retreated up the coat sleeve.  A Sanhedrin of
tailors decreed that the vest should be double breasted and padded, and its
upper button should be located on the shoulder blade, and the "bosom
friend", the last feeble and expiring relic of cleanliness, once the pride
and boast, as well as the distinguishing mark of a gentleman, was
annihilated, smothered, like Desdemona, by its nearest and dearest friend,
hitherto, alike its foil and its ornament, its contrast and its comparison
--- and now
         "Full many a skin, that sweat and dirt begrime,
          The double breasted vests of Fashion hide,
          Full many a ______, from waist to chin may climb, &c."

But I drop the parody, not from inability to follow it further, but because
I hold it as a species of high treason to reveal any more secrets of the
toilet masculine.  I have but one consolation under this affliction, namely
the hope that shirts may possibly once more come into fashion.  Yes, I have
another comfort; this abominable and worse that Moloch sacrifice of decency
of appearance, as well as reality, has not invaded the fair, for though the
garment is with them hidden, there were once and are even now certain "hors
d'oeuvres", outworks, as it were, that bear testimony to its existence among
the ladies of the present age".
   Another observer of the present and past, thus moralizes upon this
subject: ---
   Dress, says he, that was at first our shame, has become our pride; and
we, therefore, glory in our shame.  It was first used for our covering; it
is now made for display.  A fashionable dress may hardly be defined as a
covering; it is so scanty, that the plainest coat is half show.  The sober
drab of the Quaker, cut in straight lines, is yet ornamented in its own way.
It is cut in a shape that gratifies the wearer, and that may make him proud
of his humility.
   All our fashions are fleeting, and the form of a cloud is not more liable
to change.  In the shoe and the boot, those minor and inferior parts of
dress, what change may come ere we have shuffled off this square-toed pair !
All human inventions, however, have a limit; for all combinations may be
exhausted, and new fashions, like new boots, are but imitations of the old.
Of shoes we remember the duck-billed shape, the pointed, the rounded, and
the square; shoes horizontal, that exactly coincide with a flat surface, and
others so much hollowed, that the heel and toe only leave a track in the
sand.  Others are turned up at an angle, equal to the eighth of a circle,
and my toes are now pinched by a pair, small and square, of the exact
fashion that has for centuries prevailed in China, that happy country where
wise laws make the fashions unchangeable.  Boots have been more mutable than
shoes, but after a course of changes return to an old form.  In the
sculptures around the Parthenon, the work of Phidias himself, the
equestrians have boots of as finical a fit and wrinkle as any in later
times.  Their form is that of the old white tops.
   There are boots military, civic, and dramatic; there is the bootee, which
is evidently a sheer abridgement, and the jack boot, that would not be
filled after having swallowed them all.
   The fashion at one time requires the boot to be wide and stiff in the
back, and at another close and limber.  Suwarrow and Wellington
have a greater name among cordwainers than among soldiers.  Of their
victories, the remembrance will fade away, but their boots promise
immortality.  I remember my first pair of Suwarrows; they made a part of the
great equipment, with which I came from college into the world.  Four skeins
of silk did I purchase of a mercer, and equal expense did I incur with the
sweeper, for aid in twisting them into tassels for the boots.  I would incur
double the expense now to have the same feeling of dignity that I enjoyed
then, when walking in those boots !   I stepped long and slowly, and the iron
heels, which it pleased me to set firmly on the pavement, made a greater
clatter than a troop of horse ---  "shod with felt".  But if I wore them
with pride it was not without suffering; nor did I get myself into them
without labour.  Before I attempted to draw them on, I rubbed the inside
with soap, and powered my instep and heel with flour.  I next drew the
handle of the two forks through the straps, lest they should cut into my
fingers, and then commenced the "tug of war".  I contracted myself into the
form of a chicken, trussed for the spit, and whatever patience and
perseverance Providence had given me, I tested to the utmost.  I cursed
Suwarrow for a Scythian, and wished his boots "hung in their own straps".  I
danced round the room upon one foot many times, and after several intervals
for respiration, I succeed in getting my toes into trouble, or I may say
purgatory.  Corns I had so many as the most fanatic pilgrim would desire for
peas in his shoes, yet I walked through the crowd (who were probably admiring
their own boots too much to bestow a thought upon mine), as if I were a
carpet knight pelonaising upon rose leaves.  I was in torment, yet there was
not a cloud upon my brow.  I could not have suffered for principle as I
suffered for those memorable boots.
   The coat  I wore, was such as fashion enjoined; the skirts were long and
narrow, like a swallow's tail, two-thirds at least of the whole length.  The
portion above the waist composed the other third.  The waist was directly
beneath the shoulders; the collar was a huge roll reaching above the ears,
and there were two lines of brilliant buttons in font.  There were nineteen
buttons in a row.  The pantaloons, (over which I wore boots) were of
non-elastic corduroy.  It would be unjust to the tailor to say that they
were fitted like my skin; for they sat a great deal closer.  When I took
them off, my legs were like fluted pillars, grooved with the cords of the
pantaloons.  The hat that surmounted this dress had three-quarters of an
inch rim, and a low tapering crown.  It was circled by a ribbon two inches wide.
   There is no modern dress that does not deform the human shape and some
national costumes render it more grotesque than any natural deformity.
Dress, at present, seems as much worn to conceal the form, as language is
used to hide and not to express the thoughts.  In a fashionable costume, all
are forms alike; there is no difference between Antinous or Ęsop; Hyperion
of a Satyr.
   We know nothing so revolting to the sense of grave people of both sexes
as was the first use among us of ladies pantalettes, which came into use
slowly and cautiously about the year 1830.  We well remember the first
female who had the hardihood to appear abroad in their display; she was a
tall girl in her minority, always accompanied by her mother, the wife of a
British officer, come then to settle among us.  Her pantalettes were
courageously displayed among us, with a half length petticoat.  Often we
heard the remark in serious circles, that it was an abomination unto the
Lord to wear men's apparel.  The fashion, however, went first for children
till it got familiar to the eyes, and then, ladies little by little,
followed after, till in time they became pretty general as a "defense from
cold in winter", and for --- we know not what --- in summer!

      Next :  FURNITURE AND EQUIPAGE.