Area History: Watson's Annals of Philadelphia and Pennsylvania, 1857, Vol I: 
Furniture and Equipage

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       WATSON'S  ANNALS  of  PHILADELPHIA  and  PENNSYLVANIA

               Vol. I    Written 1830 - 1850

Chapter 19.         FURNITURE  AND  EQUIPAGE

   The tide of fashion which overwhelms every thing in its onward course,
has almost effaced every trace of what our forefathers possessed or used in
the way of household furniture, or travelling equipage.  Since the year
1800, the introduction of foreign luxury, caused by the influx of wealth,
has been yearly effecting successive changes in those articles, so much so,
that the former simple articles, which contented, as they equally served the
purposes of our forefathers, could hardly be conceived.  Such as they were,
they descended acceptably unchanged from father to son and son's son, and
presenting at the era of our Independence, precisely the same family picture
which had been seen in the earliest annals of the town.
   Formerly there were no sideboards, and when they were first introduced
after the Revolution, they were much smaller and less expensive than now.
Formerly they had couches of worsted damask, and only in very affluent
families, in lieu of what we now call sofas or lounges.  Plain people used
settees and settles --- the latter had a bed concealed in the seat, and by
folding the top of it outwards to the front, it exposed the bed and widened
the place for the bed to be spread upon it.  This, homely as it might now be
regarded, was a common sitting room appendage, and was a proof of more
attention to comfort than display.  It had, as well as the settee, a very
high back of plain boards, and the whole was of white pine, generally
unpainted and whitened well with unsparing scrubbing.  Such was in the
poet's eye, when pleading for his sofa,
           "But restless was the seat, the back erect
            Distress'd the weary loins, that felt no ease."
   They were a very common article in very good houses, and were generally
the proper property of the oldest members of the family --- unless
occasionally used to stretch the weary length of tired boys.  They were
placed before the fireplaces in the winter to keep the back guarded from
wind and cold.  Formerly there were no Windsor chairs, and fancy chairs are
still more modern.  Their chairs of the genteelest kind, were of mahogany or
red walnut, (once a great substitute for mahogany in all kinds of furniture,
tables, &c.) or else they were of rush bottoms, and made of maple posts and
slats, with high backs and perpendicular. [When the first Windsor chairs
were introduced, they were universally green.]  Instead of japanned waiters
as now, they had mahogany tea boards and round tea tables, which being
turned on an axle underneath the centre, stood upright, like an expanded fan
or palm leaf in the corner.  Another corner was occupied by a beaufet, which
was a corner closet with a glass door, in which all the china of the family
and the plate were intended to be displayed for ornament as well as use.  A
conspicuous article in the collection was always a great china punch bowl,
which furnished a frequent and grateful beverage, --- for wine drinking was
then much less in vogue.  China tea cups and saucers were about half their
present size; and china tea pots and coffee pots with silver nozzles was a
mark of superior finery.  The sham of plated ware was not then known; and
all who showed a silver surface had the massive metal too.  This occurred in
the wealthy families in little coffee and tea pots, and a silver tankard for
good sugared toddy was above vulgar entertainment.  Where we now use
earthenware, they then used delftware imported from England, and instead of
queensware (then unknown) pewter platters and porringers, made to shine
along a "dresser", were universal.  Some, and especially the country people,
ate their meals from wooden trenchers.  Gilded looking - glasses and picture
frames of golden glare were unknown, and both, much smaller than now, were
used.  Small pictures painted on glass with black mouldings for frames, with
a scanty touch of goldleaf in the corners, was the adornment of a parlour.
The looking-glasses in two plates, if large, had either glass frames,
figured with flowers engraved thereon, or was of scalloped mahogany, or of
Dutch wood of gold.  Every householder in that day deemed it essential to
his convenience and comfort to have an ample chest of drawers in his parlour
or sitting room, in which the linen and clothes of the family were always of
ready access.  It was no sin to rummage them before company !  These drawers
were sometimes nearly as high as the ceiling.  At other times they had a
writing desk about the centre with a falling lid to write upon when let
down.  A great high clockcase, reaching to the ceiling, occupied another
corner, and a fourth corner was appropriated to the chimney place.  They
then had no carpets on their floors, and no paper on their walls.  The
silver sand on their floor was drawn into a variety of fanciful figures and
twirls with the sweeping brush, and much skill and pride was displayed
therein in the devices and arrangement.  They had then no argand or other
lamps in parlours, [the first which ever came to this country is in my
possession --- originally a present from Thomas Jefferson to Charles
Thomson], but dipped candles, in brass or copper candlesticks, was usually
good enough for common use; and those who occasionally used mould candles,
made them at home, in little tin frames, casting four to six candles in
each.  A glass lantern with square sides furnished the entry lights in the
houses of the affluent.  Bedsteads then were made, if fine, of carved
mahogany, of slender dimensions; but, for common purposes, or for the
families of good tradesmen, they were of poplar and always painted green.
It was a matter of universal concern to have them low enough to answer the
purpose of repose for sick or dying persons --- a provision so necessary for
such possible events, now so little regarded by the modern practice of
ascending to a bed by steps like clambering up to a hay mow.
   A lady, giving me the reminiscences if her early life, thus speaks of
things as they were before the war of Independence: "Marble mantels and
folding doors were not then known, and well enough we enjoyed ourselves
without sofas, carpets, or girandoles. A white floor sprinkled with clean
white sand, large tables and heavy high back chairs of walnut or mahogany,
decorated a parlour genteelly enough for any body.  Sometimes a carpet, not,
however, covering the whole floor, was seen upon the dining room.  This was
a show-parlour up stairs, not used but upon gala occasions, and then not to
dine in.  Pewter plates and dishes were in general use. China on dinner
tables was a great rarity.  Plate, more or less, was seen in most families
of easy circumstances, not indeed, in all the various shapes that have since
been invented, but in massive silver waiters, bowls, tankards, cans, &c.
Glass tumblers were scarcely seen.  Punch, the most common beverage, was
drunk by the company from one large bowl of silver or china; and beer from a
tankard of silver."
   The rarity of carpets, now deemed so indispensable to comfort, may so be
judged of by the fact, that T. Matlack,  Esq., when aged 95, told me he had a
distinct recollection of meeting with the first carpet he had ever seen,
about the year 1750, at the house of Owen Jones, at the corner of Spruce and
Second streets.  Mrs. S. Shoemaker, an aged Friend of the same age, told me
she had received as a rare present from England a Scotch carpet; it was but
twelve feet square, and was deemed quite a novelty then, say seventy years
ago.  When carpets afterwards came into general use they only covered the
floor in front of the chairs and tables.  The covering of the whole floor is
a thing of modern use.  Many are the anecdotes which could be told of the
carpets and the country bumpkins.  There are many families who can remember
that soon after their carpets were laid, they have been visited by clownish
persons, who showed strong signs of distress at being obliged to walk over
them; and when urged to come in, have stole in close to the sides of the
room tip-toed, instinctively, to avoid sullying them !
   It was mentioned before that the papering of the walls of houses was not
much introduced till after the year 1790.  All the houses which I remember
to have seen in my youth were whitewashed only; there may have been some
rare exceptions.  As early as the year 1769, we see that Plunket Fleeson
first manufactures American paper hangings at the corner of Fourth and
Chestnut Streets, and also papermache, or raised paper mouldings, in
imitation of carving, either coloured or gilt.  But, although there was thus
an offer to paper rooms, their introduction must have been extremely rare.
The uncle of the present Joseph P. Norris, Esq., had his library or office
room papered, but his parlours were wainscotted with oak and red cedar,
unpainted and polished with wax and robust rubbing.  This was at his seat at
Fairhill, built in 1717.
   The use of stoves in families was not known in primitive times, neither
in families, nor in churches.  Their fireplaces were as large again as the
present, with much plainer mantelpieces.  In lieu of marble plates round the
sides and top of the fireplaces, it was ornamented with china - dutch - tile
pictured with sundry Scripture pieces.  Dr. Franklin first invented the
"open stove", called also "Franklin stove", after which, as fuel became
scarce, came in the better economy of the "ten plate stove".
   When china was first introduced among us in the form of tea sets, it was
quite a business to take in broken china to mend.  It was done by cement in
most cases; but generally the larger articles, like punch bowls were done
with silver rivets or wire.  More than half the punch bowls you could see
were so mended.
   It is only of late years that the practice of veneering mahogany and
other valuable wood has prevailed among us.  All the old furniture was solid.
   Having got the possession of a copy of an original draft of a letter of
Mrs. Benjamin Franklin, written in 1765, to her husband then in Europe, I am
enabled to ascertain some facts of household economy which show a state of
imported luxuries in the higher classes, at an earlier period than might be
inferred, from the facts told in these pages.  It is her letter of minute
description of their new house, just then erected in the Doctor's absence,
in Franklin Court.  I give it as a picture of domestic doings then.  She
says, "In the room down stairs is the sideboard, which is very handsome and
plain, with two tables made to suit it and a dozen of chairs also.  The
chairs are plain horse hair, and look as well as Paduasoy, and are admired
by all.  The little south room I have papered, as the walls were much
soiled.  In this room is a carpet I bought cheap for its goodness, and
nearly new.  The large carpet is in the blue room.  In the parlour is a
Scotch carpet which has had much fault found with it.  Your time-piece
stands in one corner, which is, as I am told, all wrong --- but I say, we
shall have all these as they should be, when you come home.  If you could
meet with a Turkey carpet, I should like it, but if not, I shall be very
easy, for as to these things, I have become quite indifferent at this time.
In the north room where we sit, we have a small Scotch carpet, --- the small
bookcase, --- brother John's picture, and one of the King and Queen.  In the
room for our friends, we have the Earl of Bute hung up, and a glass.  May I
desire you to remember drinking glasses, and a large table cloth or two;
also a pair of silver canisters.  The closet doors in your room have been
framed for glasses, unknown to me; I shall send you an account of the panes
required.  I shall also send the measures of the fireplaces, and the pier of
glass.  The chimneys do well, and I have baked in the oven, and found it is
good.  The room we call yours, has in it a desk, --- the harmonica made like
a desk,  --- a large chest with all the writings, --- the boxes of glasses
for music, and for the electricity, and all your clothes.  The pictures are
not put up, as I do not like to drive nails, lest they should not be right.
The Blue room, has the harmonica and the harpsichord, the gilt sconce, a
card-table, a set of tea china, the worked chairs, and screen, --- a very
handsome stand for the tea kettle to stand on, and the ornamental china.
The paper of this room has lost much of its bloom by pasting up.  The
curtains are not yet made.  The south room is my sleeping room with my
Susannah, --- where we have a bed without curtains, --- a chest of drawers,
a table, a glass, and old black walnut chairs, and some of our family
pictures.  I have taken all the dead letters, [meaning those he had as Post
Master General], and the papers, that were in the garret, with the books not
taken by Billy, [his son W. Franklin, at Burlington] and had them boxed and
barreled up, and put in the south garret to await your return.  Sally has
the south room up two pair of stairs, having therein a bed, bureau, table,
glass, and the picture --- a trunk and books --- but these you can't have
any notion of !"
   She finally concludes familiarly and pathetically --- "O my child ! there
is a great odds between a man's being at home and abroad: --- as every body
is afraid they shall do wrong, --- so, every thing is left undone !"

   FAMILY EQUIPAGE --- There is scarcely any thing in Philadelphia which has
undergone so great a change as the increased style and number of our
travelling vehicles and equipage.  I have seen aged persons who could name
the few proprietors of every coach used in the whole province of
Pennsylvania --- a less number than are now enrolled on the books of some
individual establishments among us for the mere hiring of coaches !  Even
since our war of Independence there were not more than ten or twelve in the
city, and, rare as they were, every man's coach was known at sight by every
body.  A hack had not been heard of.  Our progenitors did not deem a
carriage a necessary appendage of wealth or respectability.  Merchants and
professional gentlemen were quite content to keep a one horse chair;  these
had none of the present trappings of silver plate, nor were the chair bodies
varnished; plain paint alone adorned them, and brass rings and buckles were
all the ornaments found on the harness; the chairs were without springs, on
leather bands --- such as could now be made for fifty dollars.
   James Reed, Esq., an aged gentleman who died in the fever of 1793, said
he could remember when there were only eight four-wheeled carriages kept in
all the province !  As he enumerated them, they were set down in the
commonplace book of my friend Mrs. D. L., to wit:  Coaches --- the
Governor's, (Gordon) Jonathan Dickinson's, Isaac Norris's, Andrew
Hamilton's, Anthony Palmer's.  Fourwheeled chairs, drawn by two horses:
James Logan's, Stenton;  David LLoyd's, Chester;  Lawrence Growden's, Bucks.
   At the earliest period of the city some two or three coaches are
incidentally known.  Thus William Penn, the founder, in his note to James
Logan of 1700, says, "Let John (his black) have the coach, and horses put in
it, for Pennsbury, from the city".  In another he speaks of his "calash".
He also requests the Justices to place bridges over the Pennepack and other
waters, for his carriage to pass.
   I have preserved, on page 172 of my MS. Annals in the City Library, the
general list, with the names of the several owners of every kind of carriage
used in Philadelphia in the year 1761.  William Allen the Chief Justice, the
Widow Lawrence, and Widow Martin, were the only owners of coaches.  William
Peters and Thomas Willing, owned the only two landaus.  There were eighteen
chariots enumerated, of which the Proprietor and the Governor had each of
them one.  Fifteen chairs concluded the whole enumeration, making a total of
thirty-eight vehicles.
   In the MS. of Dusimitiere he has preserved an enumeration of the year
1772, making a total of eighty-four carriages.
   The rapid progress in this article of luxury and often of convenience, is
still further shown by the list of duties imposed on pleasure carriages,
showing, that in the year 1794, they were stated thus, to wit:  thirty-three
coaches, one hundred and fifty-seven couches, thirty-five chariots,
twenty-two phaetons, eighty light wagons, and five hundred and twenty chairs
and sulkies.
   The aged T. Matlack, Esq., before named, told me the first coach he
remembered to have seen was that of Judge William Allen's who lived in Water
street, on the corner of the first alley below High street.  His coachman,
as a great whip, was imported from England.  He drove a kind of landau with
four black horses.  To show his skill as a driver, he gave the Judge a whirl
round the shambles, which then stood where Jersey market is since built, and
turned with such dashing science as to put the Judge and the spectators in
great concern!  The tops of this carriage fell down front and back, and thus
made an open carriage if required.
   Mrs. Shoemaker, as aged as 95, told me that pleasure carriages were very
rare in her youth.  She remembered that her grandfather had one, and that he
used to say he was almost ashamed to appear abroad in it, although it was
only a one horse chair, lest he should be thought effeminate and proud.  She
remembered old Richard Wister had one also.  When she was about twenty,
Mr. Charles Willing, merchant, brought a calash coach with him from England.  
This and Judge William Allen's were the only ones she had ever seen !  
This Charles Willing was the father of the late aged Thomas Willing, Esq., 
President of the first Bank of the United States.
   In the year 1728, I perceive by the Gazette, that one Thomas Skelton
advertises that he has got "a fourwheeled chaise, in Chestnut street, to be
hired".  His prices are thus appointed: "For four persons to Germen-town, 12
shillings and 6 pence; to Frankford, 10 shillings; and to Gray's Ferry, 7
shillings and 6 pence to 10 shillings".
   In the year 1746, Mr. Abram Carpenter, a cooper, in Dock street, near the
Golden Fleece, makes his advertisement, to hire two chairs and some saddle
horses, to this effect, to wit:
            "Two handsome chairs,
             With very good gears,
             With horses, or without,
             To carry friends about.
    Likewise, saddle horses, if gentlemen please,
    To carry them handsomely, much at their ease,
    Is to be hired by Abram Carpenter, cooper
    Well known as a very good cask-hooper."

   In October, 1751, a MS. letter of Doctor William Shippen, to John Godman,
in London, wrote to discourage him from sending out two chairs or chaises
for sale here, saying, they are dull sale.
   The most splendid looking carriage ever in Philadelphia, at that time,
was that used by General Washington, while President.  There was in it, at
least to my young mind, a greater air of stately grandeur than I have ever
seen since.  It was  very large, so much so , as to make four horses an
indispensable appendage.  It had been previously imported for Governor
Richard Penn.  It was of a cream color, with much more of gilded carvings in
the frame than is since used.  Its strongest attractions were the relief
ornaments on the pannels, they being painted medallion pictures of playing
cupids or naked children. That carriage I afterwards saw, in 1804-05, in my
store yard at New Orleans, where it lay an outcast in the weather ! --- the
result of a bad speculation in a certain Doctor Young, who had bought it at
public sale, took it out to Orleans for sale, and could find none to buy it,
where all were content with plain volantes !  A far better speculation would
have been to have taken it to the Marquis of Lansdown, or other admirers of
Washington in England. [It became a kind of outhouse, in which fowls
roosted; and in the great battle of New Orleans it stood between the
combatants, and was greatly shot-ridden !  Its gooseneck crane, has been
laid aside for me.]
   Even the character of the steeds used and preferred for riding and
carriages, have undergone the change of fashion too.  In old time, the
horses most valued were pacers --- now so odious deemed !  To this end, the
breed was propagated with care, and pace races were held in preference !
The Narragansett racers of Rhode Island were in such repute that they were
sent for, at much trouble and expense, by some few who were choice in their
selections.  It may amuse the present generation to peruse the history of
one such horse, spoken of in the letter of Rip Van Dam, of New York, of the
year 1711, to Jonathan Dickinson of Philadelphia.  It states the fact of the
trouble he had taken to procure him a horse.  He was shipped from Rhode
Island in a sloop, from which he jumped overboard and swam ashore to his
former home !  He arrived at New York in fourteen days passage much reduced
in flesh and spirit.  He cost 32 Pounds, and his freight 50 shillings.  From
New York he was sent inland to Philadelphia "by the next post", i.e.,
postman.  He shows therein, that the same postrider rode through the whole
route from city to city !  He says of the pacer, he is no beauty although
"so high priced", save in his legs; says "he always plays and acts; will
never stand still; will take a glass of wine, beer, or cider, and probably
would drink a dram in a cold morning !"  This writer, Rip Van Dam, was a
great personage, he having been President of Council in 1731, and on the
death of Governor Montgomery, that year was ex-officio Governor of New York.
His mural monument is in St. Paul's church in that city.
   A letter of Doctor William Shippen, of 1745, which I have seen, thus
writes to George Barney, (celebrated for procuring good horses), saying, "I
want a genteel carriage horse of about fifteen hands high, round bodied,
full of courage, close ribbed, dark chestnut, not a swift pacer, if that must
much enhance his price.  I much liked the pacer you procured for James Logan".
   Formerly, livery stables and hacks (things of modern introduction) were
not in use.  Those who kept horses and vehicles were much restricted to
those only whose establishments embraced their own stables.  The few who
kept their horses without such appendages placed them at the taverns.  They
who depended upon hire were accustomed to procure them of such persons as
had frequent uses for a horse to labour in their business, who, to diminish
their expense, occasionally hired them in the circle of their acquaintances.
In this way, many who were merchants (the ancestors of those who have now a
horse and gig for almost every son,) were fain to get their draymen to
exempt a horse from his usual drudgery for the benefit of his employers for
a country airing.  A drayman who kept two or three such horses for
porterage, usually kept a plain chair to meet such occasions.  If the
vehicles were homelier than now, they were sure to be drawn by better
horses, and looked in all respects more like the suitable equipments of
substantial livers than the hired and glaring fripperies of the
livery-fineries of the present sumptuous days.  Then ladies took long walks
to the miry grounds of the South street Theatre, without the chance of
calling for hacks for their conveyance.  There is a slight recollection of a
solitary hack which used to stand before the Conestoga Inn, in High street
--an unproductive concern; which could only obtain an occasional call from
the strangers visiting the inn, for a ride out of town. To have rode in town
would have been regarded as gross affectation, --- practically reasoning,
that as our limbs were bestowed before hacks were devised, they should be
used and worn out first, before the others were encouraged.

Chapter 20.    CHANGES  AND  IMPROVEMENTS  IN  PUBLIC  AND
                   DOMESTIC COMFORTS AND CONVENIENCES

   As attention to the following notices of the alterations and improvements
of our city in its streets, houses, &c., for the purposes of increasing
public and individual conveniences and comforts, or for facilitating
business and trade, will much aid our right conception of things as they
once were, and of the means and times used to produce the alterations which
we now witness.
   WELLS AND PUMPS --- The conveniences of pumps were rarely seen for many
years in the primitive city.  Even wells for the use of families were
generally public and in the streets.  Aged persons have told me of their
recollections of such wells even in their time.  They became the frequent
subject of presentments of the Grand Juries.  As early as the year 1723,
they present "two old and very deep wells lying open at Centre Square," also
a pump at Pewterplatter alley.  They urge, too, that a pump at the great
arch, (Arch street) standing out much into the street, ought to be removed.
They recommend to fill up the well in the middle of the footpath in Second
street, near Thomas Rutter's.  The well in the common shore in High street
is noticed as a nuisance "for want of a better covering".  In 1741, they
present an open well in Second street at William Fishbourne's, and another
in Third street at Enoch Story's.  In 1735, it is publicly stated in the
Gazette, as manifest, that "some public pumps are wanting", and in 1744, the
Union Fire Company show their care of them by advertising a reward of 5
Pounds, "for apprehending the persons who stole the nozzles from High
street, and other streets".  When Kalm was here in 1748, he says there was a
well to every house, and several in the streets.  The water he praised much,
as very good and clear.
   WATCHMEN, LAMPS, AND CONSTABLES --- Aged persons have told me that in
their early days there were no watchmen: and that in lieu of them the
constables went round every night, before going to rest, to see that all was
well.  Even the constables were originally citizens, serving for a period by
necessity.  In the year 1750, the Grand Jury represent the great need of
watchmen and paved streets, saying of the former, they would "repress
nightly insults", and of the latter, "frequent complaints are made by
strangers and others of the extreme dirtiness of the streets for want of
paving".  The next year (1751) an act is passed for "a nightly watch and for
enlightening the city". [On the 3d of October, the same year, the Gazette
announces that on Monday last the streets began to be illuminated with lamps
according to the act.]  As early as the year 1742, the Grand Jury had before
presented the need of "a stated watch and watch house, and not to be
conducted by the citizens as formerly".  In 1749, the Grand Jury
particularly notice the defect of the nightly watch, as very defective for
so great a city, containing 2000 or 3000 houses and 15,000 inhabitants.
Only five or six men (they say) are employed, who go their rounds in
company.  I have seen by a MS. Journal of John Smith, Esq., that he notes on
the 20th of 9 mo. 1749,  that "he called at the tavern where the owners of
lamps (in the streets) were met to consult on methods for better lighting
them".  There, says he, "we agreed with a man, each of us to pay him 3
shillings and 9 pence per month, to light them nightly".  When the duties of
watchmen and constables were imposed upon the citizens, some, to avoid the
onerous service, fell under the vigilance of the Grand Juries.  For
instance, in 1704, "Gyles Green and William Morris, are presented as not
serving their tour of duty as watchmen when nominated thereto".  They were
nominated in each ward by the constables.  In 1706, several instances occur
of citizens fined 5 Pounds each, "for neglect to serve as constables".
Among the respectable citizens thus fined, I noticed the names of Joseph
Shippen, Abram Carpenter, George Claypole,  Henry Preston.  The constables of
that day, I perceive, were charged to notify to the Grand Juries the
nuisances occurring in their several wards.
   PAVEMENTS --- Our present excellent streets and foot-pavements, for which
our city is distinguished, is a work mostly executed within the memory of
some of the remaining ancients.  They have told me the streets were once
alternately miry or dusty.  The foot-pavements were but partially done,
having a narrow footwalk of bricks and the remainder filled in with gravel,
or the whole with gravel only.  In those times galoshes and pattens were
necessary and resorted to by the ladies.  The venerable Charles Thomson,
Esq., told me that Second street from High to Chestnut street, used to be
very muddy and was often a matter of complaint.  At last an accident
determined that a pavement should be made there.  One of the Whartons, being
on horseback, was mired there, thrown from his horse and broke his leg.
Thomson and others made a subscription forthwith and had that street paved,
--- it being, as I understood, the first regularly paved street in the city.
This first enterprise, being an affair of some moment in the moderate
resources of the city, became first a subject of discussion in the Junto or
Leathern Apron Club, and their wishes being favourable to the measure, it
had their patronage, and was executed at an expense of only 4 shillings and
6 pence per cart load of pebbles delivered at the shallops.  It was on that
occasion of paving that a Mr. Purdon became distinguished and useful as a
pavier.  The first workmen employed were awkward, and Purdon, who was then a
British soldier on duty in the city, smiling to see their incapacity from
inexperience, interfered to show them a better example.  His skill was so
manifest he was sought after, and at the interest of the city officers, was
released from the army by a substitute.  He was a relative of John Purdon, a
respectable shopkeeper in Front street, and who used to advertise in "verse".
   I perceive, as early as the year 1719, from a letter of Jonathan
Dickinson to his brother, that some foot-pavements and crossing places in
the mid streets were about making, to wit:  "As to bricks, we have been upon
regulating the pavements of our streets --- the footway with bricks, and the
cartway with stone, which has made our bricks dear".  The Minutes of the
City Council about the same time state, that as several of the inhabitants
have voluntarily paved from the kennel (gutter) to the middle of the street
with pebbles, and others are levelling and following their example, they
recommend an ordinance to restrain the weights of loaded carriages passing
over them.  In 1750 the Grand Jury represent the great need of paved
streets, so as to remedy "the extreme dirtiness and miry state of the
streets".  Very little of a general effort to pave the mid streets was
attempted before the year 1761-2.  And even then, the first endeavours were
limited to the means produced by lotteries --- so then every good citizen
did what he could to help the sale of the tickets for the general good.  In
1762 the act was passed "regulating, pitching, paving and cleansing the
highways, streets, lanes and alleys, &c., within the settled parts of
Philadelphia". In the regulations which ensued from this act, the streets
extending westward, lying south of High street, were thrown from three to
five feet more south than before, and occasioned some strange looking
encroachments of some houses on the south sides of the streets, and some
less obvious recession of others on the northern sides of the same streets.
Thus an old brick house, on the southwest corner of Fifth and Walnut
streets, so projected into the street as to leave no footwalk.  An old inn
and other buildings, once on the southwest corner of Chestnut and Fourth
streets, were also left so far in the street as to leave but about two feet
of footwalk there while the old houses generally, on the northern side, were
thrown back behind the general line of the foot-pavement.  Norris' house,
built in 1755 on the site of the late Bank of the United States, originally
placed three feet back from the line of the pavement, came, in time,
(probably in 1766) to be considered six to eight inches on the footwalk.
   The late aged Mr. Pearson, who served a long life as City Surveyor, had
great influence in effecting his own views as a City Regulator, and withal,
a perverse taste in the opinion of many, in bringing the whole area of the
city to a dull level.  Present observers can have little idea of the
original graceful inequalities and diversities of undulations which once
variegated the city.  By the act of 1782, James Pearson and four others were
made Regulators.  By this act Mr. Pearson, who had influence enough as
adviser before, became in effect sole ruler, whereby he so far accomplished
his favourite scheme of a general level, that we have been since compelled
to excavate the earth in numerous streets to produce subterrane water
channels to save the citizens from inundation. Pear street hill, Union
street hill, and "the hill" near the present Custom house, originally
presented beautiful natural acclivities for hanging gardens, which will be
noticed elsewhere.  Our present State house, now so dead a level, was
originally three to four feet higher than now.
   The rise and progress of the street pavings may be generally noticed as
follows, to wit:  In 1761 a lottery of 12,500 tickets, at four dollars,
making 50,000 dollars, is made for raising 7,500 dollars, to be used in
paving the streets in such places as the managers may deem most useful.
North Second street, called then "the north end", was paved in that year out
of the avails of that lottery.  First a pavement was effected to Race
street; afterwards it was extended to Vine street.  The first curb-stones
were set in Water street, from High street to Arch street, about the year
1786-8.  There criminals were first used as scavengers: they were chained to
a bomb-shell, and were attended by Reynolds the jailer.
   In 1765 Robert Erwin is made "a scavenger for seeing the streets cleansed
once a week".  In 1767 the drays of Philadelphia, which before had narrow
felloes like carts, were required to be constructed of four inches width for
the sake of the pavements.  Before those pavements it was not unusual, in
wet streets, to see two horses to a dray, drawing only one puncheon of rum.
In 1768 another lottery is instituted to raise 5250 Pounds, for further
paving the streets, and for buying a landing in the Northern Liberties.  The
manner of pebble-paving was formerly different from the present.  They did
not buttress the arch with large stones, by keeping the largest to the sides
of the streets, but they topped the arch with the biggest, and so gave the
roughest riding where most needed to be easy.  Several of the streets, too,
where the passage of water was great, as in Race and Vine streets below
Second street, had their channel or gutter in the middle.  When the streets
were elevated, and the gutters on each side, they were defended by posts.
The use of curb-stones is modern.
  As a sequel to the foregoing facts on street pavements, it may interest
the reader to see some of the facts with which the good citizens were
annoyed before they could accomplish a general pavement.  They stand exposed
by Grand Juries much as follows, to wit:  In 1705 they present as bad places
in the streets --- "In Second street, by John Parson's, going to Budd's
bridge" --- Drawbridge; "a dirty place in Second street, over against the
great Meeting house" --- Friends Meeting;  "a dirty place in Chestnut street
against John Bedle's House, and Thomas Wharton's";  "a very bad place at
Ephraim Johnson's going up from King street (Water street) to Front street";
"a low dirty place in High street, over against the free pumps, near Doctor
Hodgson's house".  In 1708 they present Walnut street, from Front to Second
street as being considerably diminished of its due breadth of 50 feet;  that
David Powell has wholly inclosed the breadth of Sixth street on the south
side of Chestnut street;  that the Fourth, Fifth and Sixth streets are in
great part fenced or taken into the several adjoining lots on both sides;
that there is a low place, with a great quantity of standing water, not safe
and scarcely passable for either horse or cart, in Chestnut street, where
Fifth street crosses the same;  that there is a deficiency in the arch
bridge in Chestnut street, adjoining the lot of the Widow Townsend;  that
there is a deep, dirty place, where the public water gathers and stops for
want of a passage, in the crossing of Third street and High street, to the
great damage of the neighbourhood;  the owner, too, of the unimproved lots
in King street (Water street) above Chestnut street, have not improved the
street in front of them.
   In 1711 they present the necessity of changing the watercourse in High
street, near William Harris' tavern, of the sign of the Three Hats;  also,
several who do not pave watercourses fronting their lots;  also, two fences
which stopped the south end of Strawberry alley; a miry place at Second and
Chestnut streets, and another at Chestnut and Fifth streets, for want of
watercourses.
   In 1720 they present an invasion of water "on the common shore", made
into King street, and a gully in the street, scarcely passable, near the
Hatchet and Shereman's;  also an impassable breach made near Pennypot House.
They also present several kennels (gutters) as unpaved.  The west side of
Second street, against Joseph Shippen's brew-house, (between James Logan's
and Samuel Powell's) is presented as wanting filling up and a kennel there,
--- this means the site of the present Bank of Pennsylvania.  In 1726 they
present "a pond or puddle in Mulberry street, between the Front and Second
streets where several children have narrowly escaped being drowned, as we
are credibly informed".
   In 1750 they present "the gutter of the northwest corner of Market and
Fourth streets, as rendered dangerous for the want of a grate at the common
sewer, the passage being large enough for the body of a grown person to fall
in;  further, that Fourth street, from Market street to the south-west
corner of Friends' burying ground, wants regulating, and is now impassable
for carriages".
   They also present, that "the pavement in Chestnut street, near Fleeson's
shop, (corner of Fourth and Chestnut street) is exceedingly dangerous,
occasioned by the arch (meaning the bridge over Dock creek, by present
Hudson's alley) being fallen down and no care taken to repair it".
   Such are some of the tokens still remaining to us of the busy
surveillance of former Grand Juries, found now among the lumber of office.
Some of them may appear too trivial for notice now; but who can foresee what
future discoveries may be made in digging into some former "fillings up" ---
as, for instance, the late discovery of subterrane logs in Chestnut street,
the primitive foundation of the bridge above referred to, and which no
living person could explain from memory !  Such unexpected developments may
call for notices as I have occasionally set down.
   BRIDGES --- It might justly surprise a modern Philadelphian, or a
stranger visiting our present levelled city, to learn it was once crowded
with bridges, having at least one dozen of them --- the subjects of frequent
mention and care !   I shall herein chiefly notice such as have been
disused; as many as six of them traversed Dock Creek alone !  The following
occasional notices of them, on the records, will prove their existence, to wit:
   In 1704 the Grand Jury present the bridge, going over the dock, at the
south end of the town, as insufficient, and endangers man and beast.  It is
also called "the bridge and causeway next to Thomas Budd's long row".
   In 1706, the Grand Jury having viewed the place where this bridge going
towards the Society Hill lately was, (but then broken down and carried away
by a storm !) do present as a thing needful to be rebuilt.
   In 1712  they present the passage down under the arch, (meaning at the
corner of Front and Arch streets), as not passable; and again, they present
that the same, to wit: "the arch in Front street is very dangerous for
children in the day time, and strangers in the night; neither is it passable
underneath for carriages".
   In 1713 they present the bridge at the Dock mouth, and the causeway
between that and Society Hill, want repairs; so also, the bridge over Dock
and Second streets; also, the bridge in Third street, where the dock is.
   In 1717 they present the bridge over the dock in Walnut street, the
breach of the arch whereof appears dangerous, and tending to ruin, which a
timely repair may prevent.  It was just built, too, by Samuel Powell.
   In 1718 they present the great arch in Front street, the arch in Second
street and the arch in Walnut street, as insufficient for man and beast to
pass over.  They recommend the removal of the great arch at Mulberry street,
as desirable for affording a handsome prospect of the Front street.  The
Second street bridge was built of stone in 1720, by Edward Collins, for 125
Pounds.
   In 1719 they present the arch in Chestnut street, between the house of
Grace Townsend and the house of Edward Pleadwell, as part broken down.  This
refers to a bridge over Dock creek, at Hudson's alley. At the same time the
three bridges over the dock at Front, Second and Walnut streets are all
declared "unfinished and unsafe".  The same year the inhabitants near the
Chestnut street bridge petition the Mayor's court for repairs to that
bridge, to keep it from falling.
   In 1740 they present the "common shore", at Second street and Walnut
street bridges as much broken.  "Common shore" sounds strange in the midst
of our present dry city !  It is also found named on the same Dock creek as
high as Fourth and High streets.  In 1750 they present the Chestnut street
bridge as fallen down and extremely dangerous.
   Some other facts concerning bridges will be found connected with other
subjects, such as those over Pegg's run, the Cohocksink, &c.  There was even
a small bridge once at the corner of Tenth and High streets.
   BALCONIES --- In the early days of the city almost all the houses of good
condition were provided with balconies, now so rare to be seen, save a few
still remaining in Water street.  Several old houses, which I still see,
show, on close inspection, the marks where they formerly had doors to them
in the second stories --- such a one is C. P. Wayne's, at the southwest
corner of High and Fourth streets, at William Gerhard's, at the corner of
Front and Combes' alley, and at the corner of Front and Norris' alley &c.
   As early as 1685 Robert Turner's letter to William Penn says, "We build
most houses with balconies".  A lady, describing the reception of Governor
Thomas Penn on his public entry from Chester in 1732, says, "when he reached
here in the afternoon the windows and balconies were filled with ladies, and
the streets with the mob, to see him pass".  In fact these balconies, or
their places supplied by the penthouses, were a part of the social system of
our forefathers, where every family expected to sit in the street porch, and
these shelters over head were needed from sun and rain.
   WINDOW GLASS --- The early buildings in Philadelphia had all their window
glass set in leaden frames, and none of them to hoist up, but to open
inwards as doors.  Gerhard's house at Combe's alley, and the house at the
southwest corner of Norris' alley and Front street, still retain a specimen
of them.  When clumsy wooden frames were substituted, panes of six by eight
and eight by ten formed the larger dimensions seen among us.  It became,
therefore, a matter of novelty and surprise when Governor John Penn first
set the example among us of larger panes --- such as now adorn the house,
once his residence, in South Third street near the Mansion House, and
numbered 110.  They are still but smallpanes in comparison with some others.
The fact of his rare glass gave occasion to the following epigram by his
sister-in-law, to wit:
      " Happy the man, in such a treasure,
       Whose greatest panes afford him pleasure;
       Stoics (who need not fear the devil)
       Maintain that pain is not an evil;
       They boast a negative at best,
       But he with panes is really blest."

   DIALS ON HOUSES --- It was once a convenience to have sun-dials affixed
to the walls of the houses.  To appreciate this thing, we must remember
there was a time when only men in easy circumstances carried a watch, and
there were no clocks, as now, set over the watchmakers' doors, to regulate
the time of street passengers. Such a large dial, therefore, still exists
against the house (once of Anthony Morris) on the north side of Pine street,
opposite Friends' meeting house --- it was a timepiece consulted by the
congregation visiting there.  Another old dial was affixed to the wall, and
seen in the rear of one of the first built houses on South Second street,
say No. 43.  Another could be seen on a house on the north side of High
street, four or five doors west of Second street.  That was once the great
convenience of the market people, of the people at the court house, and at
Friends' meeting.
   PLATE STOVES --- We moderns can have little idea of what cold,
comfortless places the public churches and places of assemblage were in the
winter seasons in former days, before the invention of  "ten-plate stoves"
and the like.  The more prudent or feeble women supplied the defect by
carrying with them to church "foot-stoves", on which to place their feet and
keep them warm. They were small square boxes of wood or tin, perforated with
holes, in which was placed a small vessel containing coals.  The first idea
of those ten-plate stoves was given by C. Sower, the printer of Germantown,
who had every house in that place supplied with his invention of
"jamb-stoves", roughly cast at or near Lancaster.  They were like the other,
only having no baking chamber.  Tenplate stoves, when first introduced,
though very costly, and but rudely cast, were much used for kitchens and
common sitting rooms.  But, afterwards, when Dr. Franklin invented his open
or Franklin stove, they found a place in every parlour.  It was for a long
while deemed so perfect, they neither needed nor even expected a change !
In 1752 first came out the cannon stoves, made at Lancaster and at
Colebrookdale, PA., and were used in churches, court rooms and legislative
halls.  They were upright cylinders, looking like cannon.  Christ church and
Friends' meeting used them.  Several other churches were without any fires,
and the aisles were brick paved.  Our forefathers were a hardy race.
   PUBLIC STAGES AND PACKETS --- In 1751 the Burlington and Bordentown line
of boats was first established, for transportation through to New York, by
Borden, Richards, Wright and others.
   The New York stage, via Perth Amboy and Trenton, is first instituted in
November 1756, by John Butler, at the sign of the Death of the Fox, in
Strawberry alley, to arrive at New York in three days. This Butler was thus
set up by the old Hunting Club, to whom Butler had been huntsman and kennel
keeper.
   The same year "British pacquet boats" are first announced between New
York and Falmouth.  The postage of each single letter to be four pennyweight
of silver.  In 1765 a second line of stages is set up for New York, to start
twice a week, using three days in going through, at 2 pence a mile.  It was
a covered Jersey wagon, without springs, and had four owners concerned.
   The same year the first line of stage vessels and wagons is set up from
Philadelphia to Baltimore, via Christiana and Frenchtown, on Elk river; to
go once a week from Philadelphia.
   In 1766, a third line of new stages for New York, modestly called "the
Flying Machine", and of course to beat the two former ones, is set up to go
through in two days; to start from Elm street, near Vine street, under the
ownership of John Barnhill.  They were to be "good stage wagons, and the
seats set on springs".  Fare 3 pence per  mile, or 20 shillings for the
whole route.  In the winter season, however, the "Flying Machine" was to
cleave to the rough roads for three days as in former times.
   In 1773, as perfection advances, Messrs. C. Bessonett & Co., of Bristol,
start "stage coaches", being the first of that character; to run from
Philadelphia to New York in two days, for the fare of $4.  At the same time
"outside passengers" were to pay 20 shillings each.
   In 1785, the Legislature of New York passed an act of exclusive privilege
for ten years, to Isaac VanWick and others, to run a four horse stage from
New York to Albany at 4 pence a mile.  This to encourage the experiment.
   It may be worthy of remark, in all the forgoing instances to travelling
conveyances, that all the force and enterprise originated with the
Philadelphia end of the line --- showing how much, in that day, Philadelphia
took the lead.
   PORCHES --- Philadelphia, until the last thirty-five or forty years, had
a porch to every house door, where it was universally common for the
inhabitants to take their occasional sitting, beneath their penthouses, then
general --- for then
       "Our fathers knew the value of a screen
         From sultry sun, or patt'ring rain."
   Such an easy access to the residents as they afforded, made the families
much more social than now, and gave also a ready chance to strangers to see
the faces of our pretty ladies.  The lively spectacle was very grateful.  It
gave a kindly domestic scene, that is since utterly effaced from our manners.
   It may further illustrate the uses of street-porches, to say that in the
colonial times of 1762-3, sundry gentlemen, and especially the officers,
took the name of Lunarians, because of their walking the streets of
moonlight evenings, and stopping to talk socially with the families in their
porches.  At the time of my present writing, I have seen a letter of July
1763, written by Edmund Conyngham wherein he says: --- "the Lunarians met in
the evening at the corner of Walnut and Water streets, most of the officers,
and their wives were present.  We drank your health and experienced the want
of your many Indian anecdotes".
   When porches were thus in vogue they were seen here and there occupied by
boys, who there vied in telling strange incredible stories, and in singing
ballads.  Fine voices were occasionally heard singing them as you passed in
the streets.  Ballads were in constant requisition.  I knew a tradesman of
my age, who told me it was his pride to say he could sing a song for every
day in the year, and all committed to memory.
   THE BANJOE AND ITS MUSIC --- The boys and musical people of former days,
gave great countenance to negroes from the slave states, who used to visit
the town to gather pence from the street passengers. Their fine voices,
assisted by their homemade guitars, made from their home-grown gourds, then
held the rank and place of the present street organs.  They have been
poetically described thus, viz:
         He stands back by the wall, he abates not his din---
         His hat gives him vigour, with boons dropping in,
         From the old and the young---from the poorest, and there
         The one-pennied boy has a penny to spare ! ---
         His station is there---and he works on the crowd,
         He sways them with harmony merry and loud---
         What an eager assembly ! what an empire is this,
         The weary have life, and the hungry have bliss !

   HOUSES ALTERED --- In every direction of the city old houses have
constantly been transforming into more modern appearances, especially within
the last twenty-five or thirty years.  Old black looking brick walls have
been renewed in appearance by painting.  Small windows and small panes have
been taken out and large and showy bulks, &c., have been put in their
places.  These in their turn have more recently been often taken down, and
bulks of smaller dimensions supplied.  The floors which were below the
present raised level of some streets have been raised, (witness C. P.
Wayne's, at the southwest corner of Fourth and High streets) and all which
were up steps (and this was the way of former buildings) have been lowered
even with the streets wherever they have been converted into stores.
   A modern innovation, which some regard as defective in good taste, has
been to tear down almost universally from the superior houses, all the
ancient ornaments which were not conformed to the modern taste.  Thus it was
general for the best houses to have vestibules and turned pillars,
supporting very highly worked pediments over each door, and the ascent to
them was up two or three soapstone steps.  In such houses the walls were
ceiled in their principal rooms with cedar pannel work, and over the doors
were pediments, which, with cornices, &c., were much carved.  These have
generally been all torn down and cast into the fire, to make way for papered
walls and plain woodwork.  The old houses too, had much relief work on the
fronts of the houses --- but the taste now is to affect a general plainness
combined with neatness.  Old Mr. Bradford, speaking of his recollections
back to the period of 1750, said there were but few frame houses at that
time.  The most of houses were of two stories, some of three stories, and
very few of one story.  He remembered only one or two of stone, and two or
three were of rough cast.  The act, to prevent the construction of frame
houses, was passed in the year 1796.  Many of the old houses, in Mr.
Bradford's time, still retained their leaden sashes and small panes.  He
removed those which had once been in the old London Coffee House.  Much he
praised the social character and uses of the porches, as once protected from
the weather by the penthouses.  Stiles' two houses on the south side of
Walnut street, next eastward of the Friends' almshouse, are among the finest
specimens of the largest and best buildings of their day.  So also the large
house (now Gibbs' ) at the northeast corner of Arch and Fourth streets.  The
two houses of John Rhea, Chestnut street opposite the present Bank of the
United States, so long as they stood unaltered, were buildings of very
superior style.  He, however, following the innovation of the day, tore out
all the rich old pannelled and carved work of the rooms; removed the stately
stone steps, and the ample pediments of the front doors; and let down all
the basement floors --- thus destroying as much in a few hours, as took
months to set up.  We have scarcely a vestige left of things as they were,
to refer to as an example of what we mean by the ornaments so laid waste.
Such as they were, have now their last asylum on the walls of the grand
entry in our State house, where we hope they will be perpetuated as long as
that structure shall endure !  Formerly, every large house, possessing a
good entry, had from two to four bull-eye glasses let into the woodwork over
the front door, for the purpose of giving light to the passage, when the door
should be shut.  Each of the window shutters had holes cut in the upper part
of them, in the form of crescents and other devices, to give light to the
rooms when they should be closed.
   STORES  ALTERED --- The stores generally retained their old fashioned
small windows, in no way differing from dwelling houses, until about forty
years ago.  Some, indeed, of the oldest structure had the shutters different
--- having the upper one to hoist up, and the lower one to let down to the
line of the horizon, where it was supported by side chains so as to enable
the storekeeper to display thereon some of his wares intended for sale.
Long or deep stores extending the full depth of the house were unknown; none
exceeded the depth of the usual front rooms. The most of them went up
ascending steps. None were kept open after night, save grocery and drug
stores.  They presented no flaunting appearances of competition; no gorgeous
nor alluring signs.  Every thing was moderate.
   The first fancy retail hardware store, with bulk windows, remembered, was
the one opened by James Stokes, in what had been the Old Coffee - house, at
the southwest corner of Market and Front streets.  The buck - handled
"Barlow" penknives, the gilt and plated buttons, and the scissors, curiously
arranged on circular cards, (a new idea) and the bulk windows, lighted up at
night, (a new thing) was a source of great gratification to the boys, and
the country market people, lounging about with arms folded, on Tuesday and
Friday evenings. One evening, among a group of gazers from about Conestoga,
one of them exclaimed to the others in Pennsylvania German, "Cook a mole,
har, cook do !"  "meiner sale !"  The first brilliant fancy dry goods shop,
with bulk windows, as remembered, was opened by a Mr. Whitesides, from
London, as it was said, in the true "Bond street style", at No. 134 Market
street, in the house now occupied by Mr. Thomas Natt.  The then uncommon
sized lights in the two bulks, and the fine mull-mull and jaconet muslins,
the chintzes, and linens suspended in whole pieces, from the top to the
bottom, and entwined together in puffs and festoons, (totally new) and the
shopman, behind the counter, powdered, bowing and smiling, caused it to be
"all the stare" for a time.  There being too much of the "pouncet - box" in
the display however, and the "vile Jersey half-pence, with a horsehead
thereon" being wrapped up, when given in change in whitey brown paper, with
a counter bow to the ladies, seeming rather too civil by half for the (as
yet) primitive notions of our city folks.
   CELLAR  KITCHENS --- now so general --- are but of modern use.  "Cook's
houses", on the southeast corner of High and Third streets, and "Hunter's
houses" on the north side of High street above Eighth street, built in my
time, were the first houses erected among us with the novelty of cellar
kitchens.  Those houses were deemed elegant and curious in their day.  After
that time, cellar kitchens have been increasing in use, to the great
annoyance of the aged dames who remembered the easy access of a yard kitchen
on the first floor.
   ICE  HOUSES --- These have all come into use among us since the war of
Independence.  After them came the use of ice creams, of which Mr. Segur had
the honour, and besides, the first advantage, to benefit himself and us.
Public ice houses for the sale of ice, is a more modern enterprise than
either, and when first undertaken was of very dubious success, even for one
adventurer.  But already it is a luxury much patronised.  In the winter of
1828, from its unusual mildness, they failed to fill their ice houses for
the first time.
   SHADE  TREES --- The chief trees seen in the streets of the city before
the revolution, were button woods and willows; several were used by the
British for fuel.  Such as remained, were attacked by an act of the
Corporation "to guard against fire and stagnant air".  To counteract so
unphilosophical a remedy for "stagnant air", Francis Hopkinson, Esq., poet
and satirical humourist of the day, wrote an amusing "Speech of the standing
member of the Assembly against the act".  It had the effect of saving some
trees.  In William Penn's time they also talked of cutting off trees to
purify the air.  The tall sky - piercers, called Lombardy poplars, were
first introduced among us by William Hamilton, Esq., of the Woodlands, who
brought them with him on his return from Europe in 1786-7.  William Bingham,
Esq., first planted them in long lines and closely set, all round his
premises in the city.  As they were easily propagated and grew rapidly, they
soon became numerous along our streets.  In time they were visited by a
large worm, the bite of which was considered poisonous.  It received the
name of the "Poplar worm".  Many must remember it.
   FRUITS,  VEGETABLES  AND FLOWERS --- The present generation is little
aware of how little their forefathers knew of many vegetables, fruits and
flowers, which are now seen to be so abundant.  These have been successfully
increased among us, by the many gardeners, florists, &c.  The Landreths, for
several years, had almost all this business to themselves, and found it to
work heavily enough in the beginning --- they having to make all their sales
under a small stall, by the side of the Old Court House.
   Tomatoes, ochra and artichokes, were first encouraged by the French
emigrants, and had but very slow favour from ourselves. Afterwards came in,
cauliflowers, "head" salad, egg plants, oyster plants, cantelopes, mercer
and foxite potatoes, rhubarb, "sweet" corn, &c.  The seed of the cantelope
was brought to this country from Tripoli, and distributed by Com. James Barron
   Formerly we had only a few fox and other poor grapes.  We have since
several foreign varieties, and have discovered and propagated among
ourselves, the Elsinboro, Catawba and Isabella.  Once we had only one sort
of small strawberries, and now we have many kinds and large.  We had only
the small blue plum, and now we have them and gages, or great size.  We have
now greater varieties of pears, peaches, apricots and apples.  The peaches
were wholly unmolested by the worms.
   Our former garden flowers and shrubberies were confined to lilacks,
roses, snow balls, lilies, pinks and some tulips.  "Jerusalem cherries" was
a plant once most admired, and now scarcely seen.  Now, we have greatly
increased our garden embellishments, by such new things as :  althea,
seringa, cocora, geranium, verbena and numerous new varieties of roses,
including champigneas and cluster roses, with many new beauties in the class
of tulips and other bulbous roots.  In olden time, the small flower bed
stood "solitary and alone" in most family gardens --- and sun flowers,  gay
and rank hollihocks, and other annual productions, were the chief articles
for a greater display.  Morning glories and the gourd vine, were the annual
dependence for cases of required shade.  None scarcely thought of a grape
vine for such a purpose.  In the way of gardens, almost every body were
utilitarians, and scarcely thought of embellishing for the sake of mere
vision, until they felt themselves urged onward by the desire of being like
their neighbours, in cases where a few of such, little by little, led on the
march of improvement.  Even the first adventurers in this matter, of
decidedly excellent taste, were themselves allured into such embellishment
of their grounds, by being captivated, in seeing them first cultivated in
the gardens of the professional gardeners.  We are certainly much indebted
to them for their steady persistence in an uphill work, until the design
succeeded, and to their profit too. It is hardly to be imagined that we
should ever, of our own mere motion, have been the separate importers of
such floral acquisitions, as we now enjoy !
   CEMETERIES --- It ought, perhaps, to be mentioned, as among the changes
of customs and opinions passing upon the public mind, the very striking
incident which runs the old burial places in the city into disuse, and so
greatly encourages and cherishes, as a place of sepulture, the rural and
romantic beauties of "Laurel Hill Cemetery".  Our forefathers never
contemplated, as a possible case of modern improvement, that the home of the
dead could be made a place of interest and beauty --- such as could invite
the visit of the stranger, and soothe the heart of those who go there to
revive recollections of departed friends. Such a place, with all its
expensive adornment, and with all it allurements of scenery, costs less we
understand for sepulture, than in the ordinary burial grounds of the city.
No wonder, therefore, that it finds favour with the public --- so that
already it has the support of eight hundred lot holders, and has received
the deposit of nine hundred interments in its short career of six years.
For there, monuments of great variety and device have been executed; and
being scattered through the shrubbery and trees, raise grateful images in
our contemplation of the dead.  We think no longer as if in a charnel -
house; but as if associated with grateful shades and fragrant foliage, amid
zephyrs, and the carol of birds.  It is the place for rest to the soul ---
the place for serenity and meditation.

    Chapter 21.   CHANGES IN RESIDENCES AND PLACES OF BUSINESS

   It may afford some surprise to the younger part of the present
generation, to learn the localities in which the proper gentry formerly
lived, or the central places in which certain branches of business were once
conducted --- the whole marked by circumstances essentially different from
the present.

   MERCHANTS LIVED IN WATER STREET --- When merchants and others within the
last thirty to thirty-five years began to build dwellings as far west as
Seventh street and thereabouts, it was considered a wonder how they could
encounter such fatiguing walks from their counting-houses and business.
Previous to this change, and especially before the year 1793, when they were
dispersed from the riverside by the fears of the yellow fever, all of the
best and richest merchants dwelt under the same roofs with their stores,
situated then in Water or Front street till the year 1793, and several of
them afterwards.  After the merchants (always the most efficient improvers
of the city) began to change their domiciles from the water side to the
western outskirts of the city, the progress of improvement there became
rapid and great.  It may mark the character of the change to state, that
when Mr. Markoe built his large double house out High street, between Ninth
and Tenth streets, in the front centre of a fenced meadow, it was so remote
from all city intercourse that it used to be a jest among his friends to
say,  "he lived out High street, next house but one to the Schuylkill ferry".
   Forty to forty-five years ago it was much more genteel to "live up High
street"  than "up Chestnut street", as it is now called.  Chestnut street
and Arch street were not then even thought of for building upon, westward of
Tenth street.  The streets were not even traced out.  Frog ponds, the
remains of former brick-kilns, would have dinned the ears of the gentry by
the songs of their frogs.  Those fine houses now out Chestnut street were
set down before the streets were paved beyond Fifth street, and the house,
which successively became the van, was like a pioneer, to clear the way for
others; for, the advanced house, even till now, was always exposed to a wild
waste, or if near any of the former settlers, they were generally mean or
vile.  Indeed, it was often a question of inquiry among the citizens, in the
paved and old improved parts of the city, how genteel families could
encounter so many inconveniences to make their "western improvements", so
called.  Even when Waln built at the corner of Ninth and Chestnut streets,
they had no street pavements, and they were wondered at to leave their
former excellent old dwellings in the neighbourhood of the Delaware.  A few
such examples made it a fashion; and now men build out as far and in as
waste places as they please, hoping for, and generally realizing, that
others will follow.  Penn street was once a superior residence.  There dwelt
such families as Robert Morris, Craig's, Swanwick's, Cuthbert's, &c.
   To illustrate a little more the state of families resident in Water and
Front streets, it may suffice to give a few facts.  Abel James, famous as
the greatest merchant of his day, had his dwelling on Water street, by
Elfreth's alley, and his stores on the wharf.  Adjoining him, northward and
southward, were other distinguished families in the shipping business.
   On Front street, adjoining to Elfreth's alley-steps, were "Callender's
grand houses", and about four doors above them stood a large double house,
once Waln's, and afterwards Hartshorne's.  Nearly opposite stood Drinker's
house, at the corner of Drinker's alley, large and elegant, and next door,
northward, stood the present Henry Pratt's house.  The house of Drinker
became a fashionable boarding house in 1766 to ` 79, kept by Mrs. Graydon,
(mother of the author of Graydon's Memoirs) at which lodged the Baron de
Kalb, Colonel Frank Richardson of the Life Guards,  Lady More and daughter,
Lady O'Brien,  Sir William Draper, of Junius notoriety, and others.  There
generally dwelt all the British officers usually in the town.
   An aged lady, S. N., told me, that in her youth the ladies attended balls
held in Water street, now deemed so unfit a place !  There too, they deemed
themselves well dressed in figured chintzes.  There too, former Governors
have held their clubs; and Pegg Mullen's beefsteak house, near the present
Mariners' church, was once the supreme ton.

   PLACES OF BUSINESS AND STORES CHANGED --- It is only within thirty-five
years, that any stores have been opened in High street above Fourth street,
westward.  It was gradually extended westward as a place of business.
Before this, it had for a few years been deemed the chief street for wealthy
families as retired residences.  Houses, therefore, of grand dimensions,
were running up for dwellings above Fifth and Sixth streets, even while
stores were following close after from Fourth street.  In a little while the
reputation for stands in High street became so great and rapid, that the
chief of the large dwellings were purchased, and their rich and beautiful
walls were torn to pieces to mould them into stores.
   Front street was the former great street for all kinds of goods, by
wholesale.  Second street, both north and south, for the length of Arch to
Chestnut street, were places of great resort for goods.  Then no kinds of
stores could have succeeded in any part of Chestnut street, westward of
Second street, and now we behold so many.
   Some places of business are strangely altered. Once Race street, from
Second to Third street, had several retail dry goods stores, generally kept
by women; now there are none, or scarcely any.  Arch street in no part of it
had any kind of stores till within thirty-five years.  The milliners first
clustered there from Second to Third street, and it was for a time quite a
place of fashion in that way.  Then millinery stores and ladies' shoe stores
opened in Second street, from Dock street to Spruce street, where no kind of
stores, trades or offices had been found thirty-five years ago.  Within
forty-five years all the shoe stores opened in High street.  Henry Manly
began first, below Second street, and was the only shoe store in the city
for several years.  Before that time all shoes were made to fit customers by
the tradesmen.  It is, however, true, that before the Revolution John
Wallace had a store for the sale of worsted, satin and brocade shoes for
ladies only; most or all of which were imported.  Stores of any kind in
Third street, either north or south, were very rare, even forty years ago,
and none were to be found at all in Fourth or Fifth street.  When they began
to open here and there in those streets, the general surprise was "how can
they think to succeed !"  Wholesale grocery stores were once so exclusively
in Water street, that when the first attempts at such in High street were
made, it was regarded as a wonder.  The western world has so rapidly
increased as to make a great increase of all kinds of stores in the western
part of the city necessary for their demands.
   When General Washington and Robert Morris, dignitaries of the nation,
lived in the houses in High street, east of Sixth street, only little more
than forty years ago, no stores, save Sheaff's wine store, were near them;
and probably not an inhabitant could then have been found to guess that that
square, and to the westward of it to Broad street, would ever become a
street of trade !  So limited were the western wagons then in High street,
that none appeared above Fifth street, and few or none thought of seeing more !
   OFFICES of the UNITED STATES GOVERNMENT at PHILADELPHIA --- When the
Government came from New York to Philadelphia in 1791, the departments were
located in private houses, to wit:  The State department was on the north
side of High street a few doors east of Sixth street, (a moderate sized
three story house) and was afterwards removed into Arch street two doors
east of Sixth street.  The General Post Office was on the east side of Water
street, a few doors below High street ! --- the same house which had before
been the residence of the Chief Justice.  The location of other offices is
already told elsewhere.
   It may serve to show the early attachment to Water street as a place of
residence and genteel business, to state a few of the facts in the case.
The earliest newspapers show, by their advertisements, that much of the
goods for retail for gentlemen and ladies' wear, were sold in that street.
As early as 1737, Mrs. Fishbourne, living in Water street below Walnut
street, advertises a full store of ladies' goods for sale at her store on
the wharf in back of her house !  In 1755, at Sims' house in Water street,
above Pine street, is advertised all sorts of men and women's wear, by
retail, &c.  When the present house, No.12 North Third street, nearly
opposite Church alley, was built there by the father of the late John Warder,
say about seventy-five years ago, it was then a matter of surprise that he
should go so far out of town !  In the day in which it was built, it was
deemed of superior elevation and finish; but now it is surpassed by
thousands in exterior show.  As late as the year 1762, Mr. Duch'e had a clay
mill and pottery, with a well of water, on Chestnut street, at the house
afterwards known as Dickinson's old house, a few doors eastward of Fifth
street, where Girard has now built his row.

   TANYARDS --- It is within the last forty-five years that two or three
tanyards, such as Howell's, Hudson's, &c., were extended from Fourth street,
south of the Friends' school, down to the rear of Girard's bank, and within
forty years, two or three were situated with Israel's stables on the
northeast section of Dock and Third streets.  A great fire at this latter
place cleared off several lots, and made room for some good houses which
since occupy their place.  In early times the tanyards were ranged along the
line of the Dock creek, and their tan did much to fill it up.  They were
often subjects of complaint.  The Pennsylvania Gazette of October, 1739, No.
566, contains remarks thereon.  In 1699, there were but two tanyards in the
city, to wit:  Hudson's and Lambert's, on Dock creek.

  SHIP YARDS --- These, in early days, were much nigher the city than we
might now imagine without the facts to assist us.  For instance, in 1723,
Michael Royll advertises for sale a new sloop on the stocks at the
Drawbridge.  The activity of ship building was very great when materials
were so much lower.  West had great ship yards at Vine street.  The late
aged John Brown saw a ship launched from the yard near the present Old
Ferry.  His father, Parrock, had his ship yards at Race street.  The late
William West, Esq., (when aged about 73) told me the ship yards were
numerous in his youth from Vine street down to Race street.  Many of the
vessels built, were sold as fast as built, for English and Irish houses
abroad.  Seventy years ago a ship or brig was built a little below Race
street; and stranger still, a small vessel was built in Lombard street, east
of Second street, and was conveyed on rollers to the river.

   BLACKSMITH SHOPS --- It shows the change of times, to state that seventy
or eighty years ago, William Bissell had his blacksmith shop at northeast
corner of Third and High streets; John Rouse had a large frame for his
blacksmith shop; and adjoining to the prison on the south side of High
street above Third street stood blacksmiths and wheelwrights' sheds.  All
these were seen and remembered by Mrs. S., an aged lady, who told me of them.

   AUCTIONS --- Some of us of the present day complain of the great evil of
having so many auction rooms --- taking the business out of the regular
stores, &c.   As early as the year 1770, they were considered as a great
nuisance to the shopkeepers, and then every man set up for himself wherever
he pleased.  The Northern Liberties and Southwark were then full of them.
They paid no duties to the government, and it was solicited that they might
be taxed five per cent, to restrain them.  Sometimes public sale was then
called "by public cant", and by "public outcry".
   At an earlier period the public vendue was held under the northwest
corner of the court house in Second street, and on the vacation of the
office in 1742, John Clifton offered 100 Pounds, and Reese Meredith 110
Pounds per annum to the Corporation, to be privileged to become the
successor.  [When the City Council rented it to Patrick Baird in 1730, he
paid for the room there only 8 Pounds per annum, and was not to sell any
goods in one lot under the value of 50 shillings.]
   After the peace of 1783, the rivalship of auctioneers became great, being
limited to a few for the city; others set up in the Liberties, and such was
the allurements to draw customers after them as might excite our wonder now.
Carriages were provided to carry purchasers gratis out to the auction held
across the Schuylkill at the Upper ferry, and ferriages were paid for those
who went across the Delaware to an auction held at Cooper's ferry.
   In confirmation, I add a short article from the reminiscences of my
friend Mr. P., to wit:  In the year 1789, and previous, there were but three
auctioneers allowed by law for the City, Northern Liberties and Southwark;
and the restriction extended to within two miles of the State house.
Several persons were desirous of following that business, but could not
obtain appointments from the supreme executive council, and came to the
determination of carrying on the same beyond the prescribed limits, and
where goods could be sold at auction without being subject to the State
duty.  The first person who commenced was Jonas Phillips, who held his
auction in the large brick house on the rising ground over the middle ferry
of Schuylkill.  He was followed by John Chaloner, who held his sales in one
of the stone stables at the upper ferry kept by Elijah Weed.  The sales were
always in the afternoon, the mornings being occupied in transporting the
goods on drays to the respective auction rooms; where they were displayed on
the shelves.  The company, being conveyed out and home, in the large old
fashioned stages, which were in attendance at the houses of the respective
auctioneers precisely at one o'clock, P.M., for that purpose.  After the
sale, the goods were repacked in trunks and cases, brought to the city and
delivered to the purchasers next morning at the residence of the auctioneer.
Phillips resided opposite the old Jersey market, south side, and Chaloner in
Chestnut street, a few doors east of the sign of the Cross Keys, kept by
Israel Israel, corner of Third street.

   BOARD YARDS --- It is only within the last thirty-five years that board
yards and wood yards have been opened in the western part of the city.  In
former times they were universally confined to the wharves above Vine
street.  When the first two or three persons opened board yards in the west,
it excited surprise and distrust of their success.  The north side of Pine
street, from Fifth to Sixth street, was once a large board yard, and another
was on the south side of Spruce street in the same square.  These were among
the first inland yards.  There was a large board yard on the lot of Ross's
store, in Front below Walnut street.  There was also the board yard of
McCulloch & Patterson on the wharf between Walnut and Spruce streets, in 1785.

   CHESTNUT STREET has, within a few years, become the chief street in
Philadelphia, as a fashionable walk.  High street once had the preference.
Circumstances may yet deprive even Chestnut street of its present
pre-eminence. In the mean time its claims to favour and renown have been set
forth in song, to the following effect, to wit:

      In vain may Bond street, or the Parks,
      Talk of their demoiselles and sparks ---
      Or Boulevard's walks, or Tuileries' shades
      Boast of their own Parisian maids;
      In vain Venetia's sons may pride
      The masks that o'er Rialto glide;
      And our own Broadway, too, will sink
      Beneath the Muse's pen and ink;
      While Chestnut's fav'rite street will stand
      The pride and honour of our land !

     Chapter 22.    LOCAL CHANGES IN STREETS AND PLACES

   In these pages, concerning the changes effected in various sections in
and about the city, the aged will often be reminded of their former play
grounds, then waste and rugged, now ruined to such purposes by the alleged
improvements and the stately edifices erected thereon.  To be reminded of
such localities as they saw them in their joyous youth, is to fill the mind
with pleasing images.
                       "Scenes that sooth'd
      Or charm'd me young, no longer young, I find
      Still soothing, and of power to charm me still !"

   At no period since the origin of Philadelphia has its extension,
improvements and changes been so great as within the last forty-five years.
It may be truly said that from the peace of 1783, which completed the first
century of its existence as a city, it has trebled its buildings and
population.  That peace gave an immediate impulse to trade and commerce, and
these brought the means to make extensive improvements. But the circumstance
which peculiarly aided the prosperity and increase of Philadelphia, together
with every other city and place in the United States, was the war in Europe
and in their colonies, brought on by the French Revolution, and making us,
on that emergency, the general carriers of the trade of Europe.  It not only
diffused general riches among the people, and changed the aspect of the
city, but even the habits and manners of the people themselves.  From the
year 1790, therefore, we may remember a constant change of the former waste
grounds of the city, the demolition of old buildings or of inconvenient
ones, and the erection of more stately and modernized houses in their places.
      So far as these notices may have to record recent circumstances, I am
aware they can afford but little present interest; but, by the same rule,
whereby we of the present day can be interested in the doings of our
forefathers in times and things which we never saw, so the time is coming
when the generations which shall succeed us may feel some of the
gratifications, in reading some of these recent facts, which I have felt in
collecting those of the past inhabitants.  Man naturally desires to know the
rise and progress of things around him.
   THE GOVERNOR'S WOODS  was a body of forest trees, which stood till the
time of the Revolution, called also Centre Woods, lying between High street
and South street, and Broad street and the river Schuylkill.  They received
their name from being a part of the
proprietary's estate.  There was an old consequential German, named Adam
Poth, (whom the aged may still remember), who had some care of them, and who
used to take on a magisterial air of authority when trespasses were made by
wandering boys or poor people.  When the British came, and needed fuel, it
was found more expedient to cut them down and sell to them what they could,
than to leave them to help themselves as conquerors.
   An aged lady, now alive, tells me that she and other girls deemed it a
great frolic to go out to the woods --- she usually went out Spruce street.
Between Seventh and Eighth streets they gathered wild strawberries; they
entered the woods opposite the Hospital, and proceeded through them out to
the Schuylkill.  The road leading through them was very narrow, and the
trees very lofty and thrifty.
   Old George Warner, who died in 1810, spoke with lively recollection of
the state of the woods out High street, saying they were of great growth,
especially from beyond the Centre Square to the then romantic and
picturesque banks of the Schuylkill.  In going, in the year 1726, from the
Swedes' church to the Blue-house tavern, on the corner of Ninth and South
streets, he saw nothing but lofty forests and swamps, and abundance of game.
   An aged lady, Mrs. N., says the woods out High street began as far
eastward as Eighth street, and that the walk out High street used to be a
complete shade of forest trees, cooling and refreshing the whole road to
Schuylkill.  At about Sixth street used to be a long bench under a shade, to
afford rest to the city travellers.
   HUDSON'S ORCHARD AND NEIGHBOURHOOD --- On the north side of High street,
from thence to Arch street, and from Fifth to Sixth street, was Hudson's
orchard of apple trees.  When the late Timothy Matlack was a young man, he
rented the whole enclosure for eight dollars per annum for his horse
pasture.  At about sixty feet from the northwest corner of Fifth and High
streets, in a northwest direction, there was a considerable pond of water,
of four feet depth, on which it was the custom of the city boys to skate in
winter.  Up by North alley, on Fifth street, was a skindresser's frame
house; on High street there also stood an old frame house; and except these,
the whole ground was a grass lot.  The first brick house ever built therein
was owned by Pemberton, the same now Mr. Lyle's, on High street.
   At the northeast corner of Sixth and High streets there was a raised
footwalk, as a kind of causeway, of two feet elevation, to keep the
traveller from the water which settled on the lot on the north side of High
street.  At this corner, in times of floods, the water ran down the middle
of High street, and communicated to the pond aforesaid.  Mrs. Pearson said
there was a time when, as a curiosity, a boat was brought to the place, and
used in crossing the water.
   In the year 1731 John Bradley was found drowned in the above mentioned
water, "_____by accidental death".
   The southeast corner of Fifth and High streets, late Sheaff's house, has
been dug down as much as five feet in the street, to form the present level.
   When Isaac Zane built his house on the north side of High street, above
Sixth street, it was set down in such a wet place that it excited talk that
he should choose such a disagreeable spot.  In confirmation, I have heard
from the Pearson family, (Pearson was City surveyor) that when he built his
frame house in Seventh street, sixty-five years ago, a little north of the
present St. James' church, there was a deep ravine through the church lot
out to Market street, which bore off much water in rains, &c., from Arch
street.  And through the whole summer there was water enough on the north
side of High street, and back of St. James', to keep the frogs in perpetual
night songs.  In connection with this also, the late mayor, General Barker,
told me he remembered very well that a drunken man, crossing this gully on
High street, fell off the footlog into the shallow water, and was found
drowned, laying upon his face.
   CITY HILLS --- Many who understand the subject deem it to have been a bad
taste which led to the "system of levelling" the once beautiful natural
inequalities of the city ground plot.  Had they been preserved, the original
varieties of surface would have afforded pleasing changes to the eye.  What
was emphatically called "the hill" in the olden time, extending from Walnut
street in a course with the southern side of Dock street, presented once a
precipitous and high bank, especially by Pear street and St. Paul's church,
which might have been cultivated in hanging gardens, descending to the dock,
and open to the public gaze.  Thence crossing beyond Little Dock street you
ascended to "Society Hill", situate chiefly from Second to Front street, and
from Union to the summit of Pine and Front streets.  From that cause,
buildings on Union street, north side, might have shown beautiful descending
gardens on their northern aspect.  [Alderman Plumstead once had such a
garden there, which was the admiration of the town.]  The same bad taste
and avidity for converting every piece of ground to the greatest possible
revenue caused the building up of the whole extent of Front street on the
eastern or bank side, quite contrary to the original design of the founder.
Nothing could be imagined more beautiful than a high open view to the river
and the Jersey shore along the whole front of the city !  Indeed, such is
the opinion of some, that even at this late day it is worth the attempt to
restore a part of the eastern front, by razing the houses on the eastern
side of Front street. It may be remembered that in the year 1822 this
subject was much discussed in the public prints, and the project was
strenuously supported by the communications of Paul Beck, Esq.  It may be
observed, as a general remark, that the high table lands of Philadelphia,
verging to "the bank" along the river, never had any where any declination
towards the river, but the general high plane gradually raised higher and
higher towards the river until it came to the abrupt bluff.  Rain-water,
therefore, naturally ran back from the Delaware front and found its way into
the Dock creek, then extending from Arch street to Spruce street.  The water
falling between Race and Vine streets from Second street, fell into both
those streets from "the hill" once between them, for both those streets were
originally natural water courses leading down to the river, and from that
cause, when those streets were paved, they had to pave the channel in the
middle, and to leave the pebble part much lower than the foot-pavements.
There was also once "the hill" along Front street near Combes' alley, so
much so, that in the memory of D. Marot, the water once ran from Front
street westward in that alley.  There was once "the hill" near the "Cherry
Garden", inclining from the southeast corner of South and Front streets
towards the river.  The houses still standing along Front street in that
neighbourhood have their yards one story higher than Front street.
   STREETS CUT DOWN AND RAISED --- The streets as they now are graduated are
by no means to be considered as presenting the original level of the city.
In many places they have been raised, and in others depressed.  Thus Market,
Arch and Race streets, near Front street, have all been lowered to as much
of a level as possible.  On the other hand, at the foot of those hills
(below Water street) they have been raised; for instance, the house still
standing at the southwest corner of Race and Water streets goes down three
steps to the first floor, whereas it used to go up three or four steps, in
the memory of some ancients; thus proving the raising of the street there;
at the same time, on Front street near by, the street is lowered full one
story, as the cellar of the house on the northwest corner of Front and Race
streets, now standing out of the ground, fully proves.  Clarke's stores, on
the southeast corner of Arch and Water streets show, by the arches above the
present windows and doors, that the ground floors have been lowered three
feet, to conform to the street there.  Forty years ago the ground north of
Arch street on Front street to above Race street, western side, was twelve
feet higher than the present foot-pavement; for instance, where the row of
modern brick buildings north of Arch street now stands, was a Friends'
meeting, called Bank meeting, on a green hill, within a brick wall, and to
which you went up full twelve feet, by steps --- several old houses still
there, with cellars out of ground, indicate the same.  And below Arch
street, in the neighbourhood of Combes' alley, the late old houses of
Gerhard's had their first story formed of what was once the cellar part
under ground.  Second street, from Arch to High street, has been cut down
nearly two feet below its former pavement.  Fourth street, from Arch street
to below High street, has been filled up full two feet.
   Walnut street, eastward from Second street, has been raised as much as
two feet, sufficiently proved by an old house still standing on the south
side of that street, which has it ground floor one foot beneath the present
pavement. Walnut street, west of Second street, must have been filled in
greatly, as they found near there a paved street six feet beneath the
present surface, in laying the iron pipes near to Dock street.  In Walnut
street, by Third street, the street must have been eight feet higher than
now, forming quite a hill there, as the late cake house near there (once a
part of an old Custom house) had nearly all of its first story formed of
what was once the cellar under ground.  The street, at the corner of High
and Fourth streets, has been much raised.  The house of C. P. Wayne, on the
southwest corner, has its floor raised one foot, and originally the house
had several steps of ascent.  Deep floods have been seen there, by T.
Matlack and others, quite across the whole street, in their early days.  In
Water street, above Arch street, the street must have been raised two or
three feet, as a house is still standing there, Nos. 82 and 84, having six
steps to go down to what was its first floor.  So, too, near S. Girard's,
the street is raised, and a house still there descends one step to its
ground floor.  In Water street, above Chestnut street, the raising is
manifest by a house on the bank side having three steps down to its first
floor.  Several houses midway between Chestnut and Walnut streets, which go
down two steps, and several below Walnut street going down one step,
sufficiently prove the elevation made in Water street in those sections
since those old houses were built.  The most of the ground in the
southwestern direction of the city, and Southwark, having been raised from
two to three feet, has generally caused all the streets in that direction to
be formed of earth filled in there; for instance, it may now be observed
that all the oldest houses along Passyunk road below Shippen street, are
full two feet under the present street.  Out Fitzwater street the old houses
are covered up three feet.  Out South street, from Fifth to Ninth streets,
the ground is artificially raised above all the old houses two and a half
feet.  Front street, below South street, is cut down as much as twelve feet,
as the elevation of the houses on the eastern side now show.  Swanson
street, from Almond street southward, has been cut down as much as eight
feet, as the houses on the western side sufficiently indicate.  South
street, from Front street to Little Water street, and Penn street continued
to Almond street, severally show, by the cellars of old houses standing
above ground, that those streets have been cut through a former rising
ground there, once called "the hill".  Eleventh street, from High street to
Arch street, has required very remarkable filling up.  A very good three
story house at the northwest corner of Filbert street, and several frame
ones northward of that street, have been filled up to the sills of the windows.
   MISCELLANEA --- The following acts of sundry changes may be briefly
noticed, to wit:
    An aged gentleman, T. H., told me he well remembered a fine field of
corn in growth on the northwest corner of South and Front streets.  He also
remembered when water flowed into some of the cellars along the eastern side
of Penn street from the river Delaware. The ground there has been "made"
ground.  On the western side it was a high steep bank from Front street.  On
an occasion of digging into it for sand and gravel, two or three boys were
buried beneath the falling bank, and lost their lives.
   The late aged Mr. Isaac Parrish told me that the square from the
Rotterdam inn, on Third above Race street, up to Vine street, and from Third
to Fourth street, used to be a large grass lot, enclosed with a regular
privet hedge; there he often shot birds in his youth; and the late Alderman
John Baker said he often shot partridges there.
   The late aged Thomas Bradford, Esq., told me he remembered when the
ground from Arch to Cherry street, lying westward of Third street, had all
the appearance of made ground, having heaps of fresh earth, and several
water holes.
   George Vaux, Esq., has often heard it mentioned among his ancestors, that
Richard Hill, commissioner to Penn, was once proprietor of the land
extending from Arch and Third streets to Vine and Fifth streets, which he
used as a kind of farm; and when the Presbyterian church was built on the
northwest corner of Third and Arch streets, it was called "on Doctor Hill's
pasture".
   The row of good houses on the south side of Arch street, between Fourth
street and the church ground, was, forty years ago, the area of a large
yard, containing a coachmaker's establishment on a large scale.
   At Pine and Front streets, the former hill there has been taken down,
below the former pavement, a full six feet deeper, about sixteen years ago.
   What used to be called Fouquet's inn and bowling green, is now much
altered in its appearance; it used to be very rural.  Many trees, of various
kinds, surrounded it.  It was so much out of town, in my boyhood, that the
streets running north and south were scarcely visible; there being nowhere
sufficiency of houses to show the lines of the streets, and all the
intervening commons marked with oblique footpaths.  It stood on rising
ground, (a kind of hill) and towards Race street it had a deep descent into
that street, which was quite low in that neighbourhood.  I now find that
Cherry street (not then thought of) is extended through the premises close
to the house.  [The old house, still standing, is seen near the southwest
corner of Cherry and Tenth streets.  It was famous in its day --- with many
surrounding outhouses.]
   Timothy Matlack, when he came to Philadelphia, in 1745, could readily
pass diagonally from Third to Fourth street, through the square formed from
Chestnut to High street; the houses being only here and there built.
   Mrs. Riley, who if now alive would be about 108 years of age, said she
could well remember when Sekel's corner, at the northeast corner of High
street and Fourth, was once a cow lot which was offered to her father at a
rent of 10 Pounds.  She could then walk across from that corner diagonally
to Third street by a pathway.
   Graydon, in his Memoirs, says, that in 1755, "in passing from Chestnut
street up Fourth street, the intervals took up as much space as the
buildings, and with the exception of here and there a house, the Fifth
street might then have been called the western extremity of the city".
   Colonel A. J. Morris, whose recollections began earlier, (ninety years
ago), says he could remember when there were scarcely any houses westward of
Fourth street.  The first he ever saw in Fifth street, was a row of two
story brick houses (lately standing) on the east side, a little above High
street.  He was then about 10 years of age, and the impression was fixed
upon his memory by its being the occasion of killing one of the men on the
scaffolding.
   The wharves along the city front on the Delaware have undergone
considerable changes since the peace of 1783, and still more since 1793.
Several of them had additions in front, so as to extend them more into the
channel; and at several places stores were built upon the wharves; but the
greatest changes were the filling up of sundry docks, and joining wharves
before separated, so that you could pretty generally go from wharf to wharf
without the former frequent inconvenience of going back to Water street to
be able to reach the next wharf.  For instance, before the present Delaware
avenue was made, you could walk from Race to Arch street along the wharves,
where forty years ago you could not, short of three or four interruptions.
We now wish another and final improvement, --- a paved wharf street the
whole length of the city, with a full line of trees on the whole length of
the eastern side.  This would invite, and perhaps secure, a water promenade,
and be in itself, some reparation for destroying the once intended promenade
of the eastern side of Front street.
   Munday's Run was once a brook which crossed High street at Tenth street,
as seen and remembered by old Butler.  Arch street at the same time was only
laid out to Eighth street, and all beyond was woods.  Woods in that street,
came down as far as Fifth street in his time, say in 1748.  When he was 18
he used to drive his father's wagon down that street from his fathers place
at the Gulf.
   Elliott, in his "Enoch Wray", gives an emphatic description of a city,
when advancing from its state of out-commons to the form of streets and
houses --- saying:

       "Now streets invade the country; and he strays,
        Lost in strange paths, still seeking, and in vain,
        For ancient land marks, or the lonely lane
        Where oft he played at Crusoe, when a boy."

       "All that was lovely then is gloomy now,
        Then, no strange paths perplexed thee, no new streets,
        Where draymen bawl, while rogues kick up a row ---
        And fish-wives grin, while fopling, fopling meets."

   It may be worthy of remark, that in the earliest construction of
buildings in the city, there must have been some difference from the
present, in the magnetic influence of the poles, or other causes of error in
ranging the houses --- for instance Wigglesworth's old house in Second
street above Chestnut, stood too much westwardly at its northern corner, and
stood out too much on the pavement.  So too Savial's house in Front street
opposite to Combes' alley.  The old house at the southwest corner of Walnut
and Water streets did the same.  In the streets ranging east and west, the
oldest houses stood into the street too far north --- for instance, the old
Inn once on the corner where the Philadelphia Bank now stands, stood out so
far on Chestnut street as to leave only two or three feet of pavement, and
seven or eight of the houses on the opposite side of Chestnut street, stood
as much back from the present range of houses.  The bake house at the
southwest corner of Walnut and Fifth streets, stood out too near the present
gutterway in Walnut street.  We have so often seen other old houses in
sundry other places in the city, having the same relations and bearings, as
to produce the conviction that there was, for a while, some prevailing
misconception or error.

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