Area History: Watson's Annals of Philadelphia and Pennsylvania, 1857, Vol I: Chapters 72 - 81 Contributed for use in USGenWeb Archives by EVC. USGENWEB NOTICE: Printing this file by non-commercial individuals and libraries is encouraged, as long as all notices and submitter information is included. Any other use, including copying files to other sites requires permission from the submitters PRIOR to uploading to any other sites. We encourage links to the state and county table of contents. ____________________________________________________________ WATSON'S ANNALS of PHILADELPHIA and PENNSYLVANIA Vol. I Written 1830 - 1850 Chapter 72. SPECIMEN'S OF THE BEST HOUSES As the style of former architecture in its best character is passing away, I have herein endeavoured to notice a few of the last remains of the former age, to wit: Two large houses on the south side of Walnut street, a little west of Third street, originally both for Mr. Stiles. One of the excellent houses of the olden time was the large house on the north-east corner of Union and Second streets, built for William Griffith, who dwelt there at the same time; it was then sold to Archibald M'Call -- it had once a fine large garden extending along Union street. At that house General Gage used to make his home and have his guard, he being related to M'Call's wife. The house at the north-west corner of Second and Pine streets, built about 75 years ago for Judge Coleman, was a grand building at that time; it having a five window front on Second street, a great high portico and pediment, a fine front on Pine street, and a large garden along the same street. It is now altered into several stores and dwellings. There were two fine houses on the site of the present Congress Hall Hotel, opposite to the bank of the United States; the one next to the Farmers and Mechanics' Bank was built for and occupied by John Ross, a lawyer. The bank was the residence of John Lawrence, and when the British possessed Philadelphia, was the house of Admiral Howe. The present Gibbs' house, on the north-east corner of Fourth and Arch streets, was a very large and superior house, having a long range of windows on Fourth street. The house at the north-west corner of Vine and Third streets, owned and dwelt in by Kinneer, presenting a great army of windows on Vine street, was long deemed the nonpariel of that end of the town. It is now down and a bank occupies the place. Markoe's house, south side of High street between Ninth and Tenth streets, was when built called "the house next to Schuylkill", in reference to its being so far out of town. It was of double front, is now standing, and altered into stores. It had a whole square of meadow about it. It was remarkable for that cause was visited by hundreds every sabbath, as a wonder of unusual grandeur; now it is but a common house. Edward Pennington's great house at the north-west corner of Crown and Race street, was one of the most respectable and most substantial of its day -- built for Edward Pennington about the year 1760. When erected, it was so far out of town, as to have the chief of its adjacent fences of plain post and rails; -- and being on the most elevated part of the town -- which gave rise to the name of Crown street, as the crowning of topmost elevation, it was a very conspicuous part of the town -- from the closer built parts of the then city ; -- it having also, before it, a descending green bank along the southern side of Race street, falling into low wet meadows -- down the western side of Fourth street, until it reached the head of Dock creek, then terminating near the corner of Fourth and High streets. The house and grounds were erected out of the funds accruing from the Pennington estate in Goodnestone manor, in Kent in England, formerly belonging to Isaac Pennington, a distinguished preacher and writer among the early Friends in England. The same who was also father-in-law to William Penn. During the war of the Revolution, this house was the residence of Colonel Johnson of the 28th regiment, the same officer who afterwards commanded at Stony Point, when it was surprized and taken by Gen. Wayne as his conqueror. Chapter 73. RARE OLD HOUSES The only house of size now in Philadelphia with gable end front on the street, is to be seen at the south-west corner of Front street and Norris' alley. It formerly had a balcony and door at its second story, and its windows in leaden frames; one of which still remains on the alley side of the house. It is a very ancient house. It was, in the year 1725, the property and home of Samuel Mickle, the same unnamed gentleman who talked so discouragingly to Benjamin Franklin when he first proposed to set up a second printing office in the city. The house on the west side of Front street, second door north of Walnut street, pulled down a few years ago, was remarkable for having in its foundation a large brick on which was scratched before burning -- "This is the sixth house built in Philadelphia". A house of Dutch style of construction, with double hipped roof, used to stand, with gable end to Second street, on the south side of the Christ church wall. It was but one and a half story high, built of brick. In the year 1806 it was pulled down, to build up the present three story house there. In the ancient house they found a big brick inscribed "L.G.S. founded 1695". This is now conspicuously preserved in the chimney of the new house, and visible from the street. In the rear of the same new house is preserved a small section of the primitive old wall. A very ancient house of two stories and double front used to be occupied, in Front street below Chestnut street, on the bank side, by Dorsey, as an auction and dwelling. An ancient lady pointed it out to Mrs. Logan, as a place in which the Assembly of the Colony had held their session. The north-east corner of Front and Walnut street, till a few years ago, had a curiously formed one and a half story brick house, having a double hipped roof. The houses on the west side of Water street, north of Carpenters' stairs, `vis-a-vis' Norris' alley, present the oldest appearance of any now remaining of the original bank houses. There were two ancient and singular looking houses on the north side of Chestnut street, back from the street, where Girard has now built a new range of three houses, near to Fifth street. They were marked 1703, and at an early period was the residence of Mr. Duchˇ, who had a pottery connected with it. At the north-east corner of Vine and Second streets there stood, about 45 years ago, a large old-fashioned house; it originally stood on a hill ten feet higher than the street -- had a monstrous buttonwood tree before it, and a long and high garden down Vine street. Many years ago there was a range of low wooden houses on the west side of Front street, extending from Coombes' alley nearly up to Arch street, on much higher ground than the present; they were often called "Sailor's town", being boarding houses and places of carousal for sailors. Mr. Pearson, the late city surveyor, and John Brown, remembered them in their early days. Something like a similar collection of one story houses occupied the western side of Third street, and extended southward from Race street. They got the name of Hell-town, for the bad behaviour of their inmates. Two of them still remain, one of brick, and one of wood, and present a strange contrast in their mean appearance to other houses near there. In 1744, the Grand Jury presented them as disorderly, and as having acquired such a name for their notoriety. An orchard lay between them and Cherry street. "Jones' row", so called in early times, was originally a range of one large double house and one single one, forming an appearance of three good two story brick houses on the west side of Front street, adjoining to the south side of Combes' alley -- now the premises of Mr. Gerhard, and greatly altered from its original appearance, by having what was formerly its cellar under ground, now one story out of ground, and converting what was once a two story range of houses into three story houses. It once had a long balcony over Front street, and the windows were framed in leaden lattice work, only one of which now remains in the rear of the house. This house was razed in 1837, and I have the leaden frames of its windows -- certainly the last in the city. The present elevation of the yard ground proves the fact of having cut down Front street and Combes' alley eight or ten feet. This row was built in 1699 for John Jones, merchant, he having a lot of 102 feet width, and extending quite through to Second street. The best specimens of the ordinary houses of decent livers of the primitive days, now remaining in any collection, are those, to wit : On the north or sun side of Walnut street, from Front up to Dock street, generally low two story buildings. Another collection extends from Front to Second street, on the north or sun side of Chestnut street. They appear to have avoided building on the south or shaded side of those streets. In both these collections there is now here and there a modern house inserted, of such tall dimensions as to humble and scandalize the old ones. Chapter 74. CHURCHES The following facts, incidentally connected with sundry churches, may possibly afford some interest in their preservation, to wit : The Presbyterian and Baptist churches began their career about the year 1695, and so far united their interests as to meet for worship in the same small building, called "the Barbadoes-lot store" -- the same site where is now the small one-story stocking store, on the north-west corner of Chestnut and Second streets.** **Footnote -- The valuable lot is since occupied by some four or five stately houses. It was long a city wonder that so small a wooden shop should occupy such a valuable ground. It was probably with the intention of running out its hundred years for the sake of its title. A belief of that kind made me cautious to say much about it in the former edition. As a part of the property of the "Barbadoes Company", their interests in Philadelphia had been neglected, and eventually, probably abandoned. It may be seen by the minutes of council of 1704, that at that time the London members of the Society of Freetraders "complain that their books and papers, &c., are broken up, and they pray relief against their agents here, and a right knowledge of their interests". Finally, they gave their whole remaining interests to the Society for Propagating religion in Foreign Parts. A society still existing.** The Baptists first assembled there in the winter of 1695, consisting only of nine persons, having occasionally the Rev. John Watts from Pennepeck as their minister; for then, be it known, the church at Pennepeck was both older and more numerous than that of the "great towne" of Philadelphia. At the same place the Presbyterians also went to worship, joining together mutually, as often as one or the other could procure either a Baptist of Presbyterian minister. This fellowship continued for about the space of three years, when the Presbyterians having received a Rev. Jedediah Andrews from New England, they began, in the opinion of the Baptist brethern, to manifest wishes for engrossing the place to themselves, by showing an unwillingness to the services of the Baptist preachers. This occasioned a secession of the latter from the premises, (although they had been the first occupants) and they afterwards used to hold their worship in Anthony Morris' brewhouse -- a kind of "Mariner's church location", on the east side of Water street, a little above the Drawbridge, by the river side. There they continued to meet until the spring of 1707, lowly and without means for greater things; when, being invited by the Keithians, (seceders from the Quakers, under their follower, George Keith) they took possession of their small wooden building on the site of the present first Baptist church, in Second street below Mulberry street. In that house they continued their worship, several of the Keithians uniting with them, until the year 1731, when they pulled it down, and erected in its stead a neat brick building of forty-two by thirty feet. That was also displaced by another of larger dimensions in 1762, and since then it has been much altered and enlarged. Long letters of remonstrance on the one hand, and of justification on the other, passed between the Baptists and Presbyterians, headed by John Watts for the Baptists, and by Jedediah Andrews for the Presbyterians; these are of the winter of 1698, and are preserved in the Rev. Morgan Edward's History of the Baptists in Pennsylvania. They ended in the withdrawing of the Baptists, who said Mr. Andrews wrote to his friend thereupon, saying, "Though we have got the Anabaptists out of the house, yet our continuance there is uncertain; wherefore we must think of building, notwithstanding our poverty and the smallness of our number". The house which they did eventually build was that "First Presbyterian church" in High street, long called the "Old Buttonwood" -- because of such trees of large dimensions about it. It was built in 1704; after standing about a century it was rebuilt in Grecian style, and finally all was taken down in 1820, and the ground converted to uses of trade and commerce. The din and crowd of business had previously made it an ill-adapted place. It is curious enough of the first church of the Baptist order -- founded in Philadelphia county, to wit, at Pennepeck, one year before that in Philadelphia -- that it originated under a gentleman who first appeared at Philadelphia under a kind of freak, acting as an impostor. The case was this. Elias Keach, son of the "famous Benjamin Keach of London", who arrived here a wild young man, about the year 1686, passed himself off for a minister, dressing in black and wearing his band. Many people resolved to hear the young London divine ! He went on well for a time in his sermon, but all at once stopping short, and looking astonished, he was supposed to have been suddenly disordered; and upon being questioned, he frankly confessed, with tears and much trembling, that he was practising deception in holy things ! In his distress, hearing that there was a Baptist minister from Rhode Island, Thomas Dungan, at Coldspring, Bucks county, he repaired to him, was baptized and ordained. He was very successful in raising churches in Pennsylvania, and having married the daughter of Nicholas Moore, he went back to England in 1692. He believed in, and practised also, the efficacy of anointing the sick with oil -- a faith inculcated by many of his order in that day. The Rev. John Watts was ordained to the Pennepeck church in 1688, and at the same time, took charge of the few first Baptists to be found in Philadelphia. [Some of the foregoing facts may be found in Morgan Edwards' book of 1770.] Friends' Meeting in Arch street ---- This house, built about thirty-two years ago, is placed near the area where they had buried their dead from the foundation of the city. The wall now around the whole enclosure has replaced one of much less height. When the first wall stood, it was easy to see the ground and graves over the top of the wall, in walking along the northern side of Arch street. The first person ever interred in their ground was Governor Lloyd's wife, she was a very pious woman. William Penn himself spoke at her grave -- much commending her character. Because of his high estimation of her and her excellent family, he offered, after her burial there, to give the whole lot to that family. The descendants of that family, including the Norrises, have ever since occupied that south-west corner where Mrs. Lloyd was buried, as their exclusive ground. The aged Samuel Coates told me that Indians, blacks and strangers were at first buried freely in Friends' ground; and he gave it as his opinion that they were at first not very particular to keep out of the range of Arch street -- a circumstance which was afterwards verified; for in September, 1824, when laying the iron pipes along Arch street, off the eastern end of the meeting house, they dug up several coffins in corresponding rows. They were left there unmolested. The tradition of this encroachment of the street on the former ground was known to some of the ancients. This was told to Mrs. Logan by her aged aunt; and a lady of the name of Moore would never ride along that street, saying it was painful to ride over the dead. There was lately dug up in Friends' ground a head-stone, of soapstone, having an inscription of some peculiarity, to wit : "Here lies a plant Too many seen it --- Flourisht and perisht In half a minvit : Joseph Rakestraw, The son of William, Shott by a negro The 30 day of Sept. 1700, in the 19th year and 4th month of his age." A letter of Mr. Norris' of the year 1700, explains the circumstance, saying that "Jack, a black man belonging to Philip James, was wording it with Joseph, half jest and half earnest, when his gun went off and killed him on the spot. The negro was put to his trial". The stone is now in the possession of Joseph Rakestraw, the printer. There was also formerly another ancient grave-stone there for Peter Deal, called in Gabriel Thomas' book, of 1698, "a famous and ingenious workman in water-mills". The stone was inscribed, to wit: "Here lies the body of Peter Deal, Whose life was useful to the common weal; His skill in architecture merits praise Beyond what this frail monument displays --- He died lamented by his wife and friends, And now he rests, they hope, where sorrow ends." Presbyterian Churches --- The ancient first church in High street, built in 1704, continued its peace and increase until the time of the Rev. George Whitfield, when he and his coadjutors, Tennent, Davenport, Rowland, &c., produced such a religious excitement as gave umbrage to many; the consequence was, that a party drew off, under the name of "New Lights", to Whitfield's separate church, erected in 1744, and in 1750 made into "the Academy". The same year the new Lights, concentred under the pastoral charge of the Rev. Gilbert Tennent, laid the foundation of the Presbyterian church at the north-west corner of Third and Arch streets, then bearing the name of the "New Meeting house". It was at first without a steeple; but an effort to raise one was attempted among the society, "and it falling much short", they, in the year 1753, succeeded to draw a lottery, to have it finished. That steeple was taken down thirty-five or forty years ago, from an apprehension that it might be blown over. It was a very neat and ornamental structure. In the period of its construction some thought it too much like aspiring to the airy honours just before acquired by Christ church; it therefore gave rise to a satirical couplet in these words, to wit : "The Presbyterians built a church, and fain would have a steeple; We think it may become the church, but not become the people." When they were doing something at the steeple in 1765, a young man, engaged thereon, fell down and was killed in a few minutes. When the Rev. Gilbert Tennant lived at Bedminster country seat, (north-east corner of Fourth street and Brewer's alley, now Wood street), he was one day overtaken in a storm of rain, and put into the tavern, the White Horse, at the north-west corner of same alley and Third street; having hitched his horse to the buttoonwood then there, and gone into the house. While he was seated by the fire, drying his clothes, lightning came down the chimney, and melted the silver buckles in his knee-bands and shoes ! The people thought him invulnerable as a saint of God. I was told it by an old lady of his church, as a fact known to herself. She also said that she often knew the women and others of his church to scream for mercy, "equal to any thing since seen among the Methodists". In connexion with the church above named, the society also built a brick meeting house at the north-east corner of St. John and Coates street, since converted into three dwelling houses, and these again into a theatre. In time Mr. Tennant expressed his regrets at the secession, and the whole people afterwards became reunited to the parent stock, under the name of the Second Presbyterian church. The third Presbyterian church, at the south-west corner of Pine and Fourth streets, was built by the High street congregation, about the year 1760, on purpose to accommodate that part of the congregation which, in the language of the day, lived "down on the hill". The pastors of the two churches were to interchange. In a few years after, the Pine street people called the Rev. Mr. Duffield, contrary to the will of the mother society, and by force opened the doors on a Sabbath morning, and put their pastor into the pulpit ! This, of course, was a matter of great scandal in that day. After some private altercation, the High street people sued for the recovery of their property. Their right was awarded by several successive courts; and finally, an appeal was made to England. Before, however, the cause was decided there, the revolution put an end to her jurisdiction, and the Pine street "revolters" (as some called them) kept possession, until the matter was at length terminated by the possessors agreeing to purchase. But the price agreed on was never executed by the original society. This society, in some twenty or twenty-two years ago, fell into another schism among themselves and divided; part remaining and calling in the Rev. E.S. Ely, and the other part building a new church in Spruce street, and calling in the Rev. Dr. Neill. These bickerings are painful; but it is the business of the historic pen to record the conduct of our progenitors, as we are thus endeavouring to revive the recollections of all the interests and the passions which once agitated and affected them. The Lutheran Churches --- The first was built in 1743, for Dr. H.M. Muhlenberg, who came out to this country in 1742, as the first ordained clergyman. The first church was built on Fifth street, at the corner of Appletree alley, and had a steeple affixed thereto, which had to be taken down in 1750, owing to having been erected too soon upon the new walls. This church was used by the British while in the city, as their garrison church, and the congregation using it also a part of each Sunday. Their next built church was the large church on Fourth street, corner of Cherry street, built there in 1772. The site which they took up had been the board yard of General Roberdeau. While the British occupied Philadelphia, they took out the pews of this church and used it as their hospital. The Lutherans had been accustomed to hold separate meetings of worship before they had a pastor in Dr. Muhlenberg, or a church of their own to assemble in. On these occasions they were instructed by the Rev. Mr. Dylander, the Swedish minister at Weccaco, -- a very zealous minister, who often preached sixteen sermons in a week ! The church which they had before used was a building on Allen's lot, used alternately by the Lutherans and the Moravians. While the latter were once using it, the Lutherans came and drove them out, taking forcible possession. Indictments, &c., followed. This was in the year 1742. The German Reformed Church --- The first was built in Race street near Fourth street, about the year 1747, and was made in an octagon form, having a steeple. They built their schoolhouse by a lottery in 1753-4. The octagon church they tore down in a few years, and built the present larger one on the same site in 1762. Again pulled down in 1836. The first church was built for the Rev. Michael Schlatter who was sent from the Society in Holland, -- his old journal I have seen, wherein he states, that before his coming they were preached to by a Mr. Boehm, a layman, at a hired house. When Mr. Schlatter arrived, he found 165 communicants in Philadelphia, and 115 in Germantown. "An Almanac Forever" was found affixed to one of the rooms of the house they pulled down to give room for the new enlarged church. It being of curious construction, it has been preserved in my MS. Annals, page 202, in the City Library. In the year 1750, this church had to encounter an unpleasant incident -- a great strife in the church between the two contending pastors, Mr. Schlatter and the former minister from Dortrecht -- they disputed about the possession of the pulpit several Sundays. The former at last took the pulpit on Saturday and stayed in it all night; bruising occurred, much to the scandal of the religious profession. At length the Magistrates interfered and decided in favour of Mr. Schlatter. Mr. Kalm, who saw the first church, described it as being like a church near Stockholm. The Roman Catholic Churches --- It was always the enlightened and peculiar characteristic of Pennsylvania, even when yet a colony, that it respected and cherished the unfettered rights of conscience in matters of religion. In this respect it was more indulgent and free than the parent country, so that when we would countenance freedom of religious exercise, there were those among us, jealous of parental prerogative, who cried "Church and State in danger! " To this cause probably arose the caution of Penn, in his letter of 1708, to James Logan, saying : "With these is a complaint against your government, that you suffer public mass in a scandalous manner; pray send the matter of fact, for ill use is made of it against us here". The early-mentioned mass probably had its origin in the frame building once a Coffee House on the north-west corner of Front and Walnut streets. Samuel Coates, the late aged owner of that lot, has told me that when he received the premises from his uncle Reynell he told him, jocosely, to remember it was holy ground, and had been once consecrated as a chapel. Mr. Coates also told me that he remembered to have seen a neighbouring man often passing the house to the Green Tree pump for water, who always made his genuflexion in passing, and on being questioned, said he knew it was consecrated ground. Fifteen years ago I saw a lady, Sarah Patterson, born in 1736, who dwelt in her youth at the house on the south-east corner of Chestnut and Second streets; she had often heard her parents say it was built for a Papal chapel, and that the people opposed its being so used in so public a place. There was a Roman chapel near the city of Philadelphia, as early as the year 1729; at that time, Elizabeth M'Gawley, an Irish lady, and single, brought over a number of tenantry, and with them settled on the land (now Miss Dickinson's) on the road leading from Nicetown to Frankford. Connected with her house (now standing opposite to Gaul's place) she had the said chapel. [Near the place (one eight of a mile off) is a stone enclosure, in which is a large tombstone of marble, inscribed with a cross and the name "John Michael Brown, Ob. 15 Dec., A.D. 1750, R.I.P." He was a priest.] Mrs. Deborah Logan has told me that much of it was in ruins when she was a girl; but even now the spot is visible. It was then called "the haunted place". These facts in general have been confirmed to me also by the late Thomas Bradford, Esq., of Philadelphia when 88, and who told me he remembered well, when a lad, to have heard of this chapel as a haunted place. It was the report of the time in Philadelphia, &c., and he added as a fact, that a person, to test the reality of the thing alleged, went to the road by the premises at midnight, and walking with his hands behind him, was suddenly alarmed with a sensation of an application of death coldness to his hands ! Too terrified to turn and examine the cause, he endeavoured to rouse his courage by calling on the familiar names of some dogs; at last hitting on one that had lost his owner, which ran before him at the call, and in offering to caress him, was led to discover that the terrific coldness had been the dog's nose. It may be a question whether the aforesaid Roman chapel may not have been there before Elizabeth M'Gawley settled there, even from the earliest origin of the city, and that such, however agreeable to Penn's tolerant spirit, was not so to most protestants then in power; for we may remember that one of Penn's letters from England to his correspondent in Philadelphia, says, "It has become a reproach to me here with the officers of the Crown, that you have suffered the scandal of mass to be publicly celebrated". To avoid such offence, this chapel may have been at an inconvenient distance, and as if in secrecy. At a very early period the first chapel in Philadelphia was on the premises now Samuel Coates', at the north-west corner of Front and Walnut streets. And as early as 1686, I have recorded William Penn's letter to Harrison, (his steward) wherein he tells him he may procure fine smoked shad of the old priest in Philadelphia. And in 1685, his letter spoke of Charles De la Noe, the French minister, coming to settle among them with servants as a Vigneron. These remarks may prove interesting inquiries to papists themselves among us; none of whom I am satisfied have any idea of any older chapel than the one now in Willing's alley, built in 1753, and now called the oldest. The Rev. Dr. Harrold, of the Catholic church, assured me that they have no records in Philadelphia of any earlier church than that in the said alley, although he thinks there may be some records in the College of St. Mary at Georgetown, which may (if anywhere to be found) exhibit where the first Catholic worship occurred in Philadelphia. We, however, know that Governor Gorden, in 1734, informed the Council that a house had been erected in Walnut street, [probably at the north-west corner of Walnut and Front streets, or else St. Joseph's on Willing's alley and back from Walnut street] for the open celebration of mass, contrary to the statutes of William the Third. The Council advised him to consult his superiors at home. In the mean time they judged them protected by the charter, which allowed "liberty of conscience". The minutes of the Council, at the same time, calls their proceedings thereon "the Consideration of the Council upon the building of the Roman mass house, and the public worship there", July 1734. In the year 1757 Mr. Harding, the popish priest, made a report of the Catholics in Pennsylvania, at the request of the Governor, viz.: in Philadelphia, 139 -- in Chester county, 40. The whole number, in all the state, including Germans, &c., men, women and children, about two thousand souls. The Moravian Church --- This church, at the corner of Race and Bread streets, was built in 1742; before that time they appear to have held their meetings at a building on Allen's lot, in conjunction with the Lutherans; the latter using the place every third Sunday, and the others three times a month. Some jealousy got among them, so that while Mr. Pyrlaus was preaching for the Moravians, the Lutherans came in force, and violently excluded the others. Although the Gazettes of the day called the above opponents "Lutherans", there is a reason to believe they were mistaken in the society named, and that they must have been the German Reformed sect; because I see, in the Lutheran account of their mission in Philadelphia at this time, that they state that "the Reformed and Lutherans had rented a house in common for public worship. That on one occasion a Mr. Pyrlaus, the Moravian preacher entered the house by force without the keys, in order to preach, and that because he so entered against the will of the lawful owners, the Reformed pulled him from the pulpit and put him without the doors". See for these facts "Nachrichten von einiger Evan., &c., p.136. Secretary Peters, who mentions this event to the Penns, in 1742, says these indicted the others for a riot, but lost their cause. It probably educed good from evil, by inducing them to build that year a church for themselves. Kalm, the Swedish traveller, at a later period, speaks of the Moravians and the German Reformed hiring a great house, in which they performed service in German and English, not only two or three times every Sunday, but likewise every night ! But in the winter of 1750 they were obliged to desist from their night meetings, because some young fellows disturbed them by an instrument sounding like the cuckoo, and this they did at the end of every line when they sang their hymns. St. Paul's Church --- This was originally founded in 1760, with a design to be more in accordance with Mr. Wesley's church conceptions, than was tolerated in other Protestant Episcopal churches. It was built in 1762. The walls were run up by subscription; after which a lottery was made to complete it. When the church was to be plastered, the men not being skilful in constructing so large a scaffolding, it fell, and killed and wounded several persons. The church was first got up for the Rev. Mr. Clenachan. He preached at one time specially against the lewdness of certain women. Soon after a Miss H., celebrated in that day for her beauty and effrontery, managed to pluck his gown in the streets. This gave rise to some indignation, and a mob of big boys went in a strong body and demolished her house, with some others in her fellowship -- "down town". The Methodist Church --- Methodism was first introduced into Philadelphia in the year 1769, by the late Rev. Dr. Joseph Pilmore of St. Paul's church, he having then as a young man arrived here on a mission from the Rev. Mr. John Wesley. He preached from the steps of the Statehouse in Chestnut street, and from stands put up in the race fields, being, as he has told me, a true field preacher, and carrying his whole library and wardrobe in his saddlebags. His popularity as a preacher soon led to his call to St. Paul's. Among the novelties of his day, he was occasionally aided in preaching by Captain Webb, the British barrack-master at Albany, who being a Boanerges in declamation, and a one-eyed officer in military costume, caused attraction enough to bring many to hear, from mere curiosity, who soon became proselytes to Methodism. The Methodism of that day was not so exclusive as now; it collected people of any faith, who professed to believe in the sensible perceptions of divine regeneration, &c., and required no other rule of association than "a desire to flee from the wrath to come, and having the form of godliness, were seeking after the power thereof". Calvinists and Arminians were therefore actual members of this first association. The Methodists of that day, although remarkable for their holiness of living, were not distinguished by such violent emotions and bodily exercises in their assemblies as often occur now. There were no jumpers among them, nor fallers down, nor shouters. The first regular meetings of this society were held in a pot-house in Loxley's court, a passage running from Arch to Cherry street, near Fourth street. The first church owned by the Methodists, was the present St. George's in Fourth near New street. It was an unfinished building, which they bought of the Germans. It having no floor laid when the British possessed the city, they took it to the use of their cavalry as a riding school. In the rear of that church was an artillery yard of cannons and balls after the peace. The reminiscences of that church, given by another hand, as seen by him when Methodism was young, shall close this article, to wit : Saint George's Methodist church in Fourth street, and the only one at the time in Philadelphia, was without galleries within or railing without, a dreary, cold-looking place in winter time, when, from the leaky stove pipe, mended with clay, the smoke would frequently issue, and fill all the house. It was then customary with the female worshippers to carry with them small "wooden stoves" for the feet, such as are to be seen used by the women in market. The front door was in the centre; and about 20 feet from the east end, inside, there stood a square thing not unlike a watch box, with the top sawed off, which in that day served as their "pulpit of wood", from whence the Rev. Mr. Willis used to read prayers previous to the sermon, from Mr. Wesley's Liturgy, and John Hood (lately living) raised the hymn standing on the floor. Mr. Willis, during service, wore a black silk gown, which gave offence to many, and was finally laid aside. "Let all things be done soberly and in order" seemed to be the standing rule, which was first broken in upon by a Mr. Chambers, from Baltimore, who, with a sharp penetrating voice and great energy of manner, soon produced a kind of revolution in the form of worship, which had assimilated itself with that of the Church of England. About the same time, the far-famed (among Methodists) Benjamin Abbott, from Salem county, New Jersey, used to "come over and help" to keep alive the new fire which had been kindled in "the church in Philadelphia". He was at the time an old man, with large shaggy eye-brows, and eyes of flame, of powerful frame, and great extent of voice, which he exerted to the utmost, while preaching and praying, which with an occasional stamp with his foot, made the church ring. It was like the trumpet sounding to battle, amidst shouts of the victorious and the groans of the wounded. His words ran like firesparks through the assembly, and "those who came to laugh" stood aghast upon the benches -- looking down upon the slain and the wounded, while to use a favourite expression of his, "The shout of the king was in the camp". American Churches --- before the American revolution, were all considered as appendages of the mother country, so far as to be generally governed by the rules at home. The Protestant Episcopal church had to receive its ordinations and book of forms from the bishop of London. Both Dr. White of Philadelphia and Mr. Provost of New York had their consecrations as bishops in London, even as late as 1787. The Presbyterian churches were guided by Scottish precedents; and the American students of divinity were accustomed to read Stewart's Scottish Collections as a book of authority on discipline and government. The Methodists took all their authority and rules from John Wesley. The general synod of the Dutch church, which began to construct its laws as early as 1787, had them under advisement down to the year 1792, when they determined on the constitution by which its churches are now governed. The Presbyterians, it is understood, took very great pains to make their ecclesiastical laws of enduring and unchangeable character. To this purpose, they were subjected to several reconsiderations and revisals in the several Presbyteries -- and after three years of consideration, they were finally adopted, in May, 1788. Little or no part of the Confession of Faith was altered, save that which related to the civil government and the civil magistrate. In the Scottish form, the civil magistrate had power to "call synods, to be present at them, and to provide that all done therein should conform to the mind of God". In place of that, the American Presbytery declared it to be the duty of the civil magistrate to protect equally the churches of our common Lord, without a preference to any one denomination above the rest; to the end, that "all should enjoy full and free liberty of action, without violence or danger". This constitution, it has been said, is sufficient in itself to show, that they as a people can have no power, even if they had the wish, to unite church and state. The Scottish form also included a declaration, that "it was a sin to tolerate a false religion", which was left out here, by a unanimous vote. The Friends, at all times, had been most free from this foreign influence. They have indeed always received annual epistles from abroad, reporting their views and feelings on given subjects of religious character, and in return the American friends have been equally free to send their responses "in reciprocal interchanges of brotherly love". Concluding and general remarks. --- we shall herein endeavour to sketch some few of the remembered differences between the past and the present, in the ways and circumstances of public worship. Formerly there were no choirs set apart as singers : and an obvious reason was, that there were no tunes used of such complicated and artificial construction as to require a separate order or class to manage them. There was, from that circumstance, a much more general and hearty co-operation of the whole body of worshippers. In the Presbyterian, Baptist and Methodist churches, the singing was led by one good singer standing below the pulpit, and bearing the appellation of "the setter of tunes". Such were "Josey Eastburn" and "Johnny Hood" names long endeared to many. In Christ church, the singer, there called the clerk, was Joseph Fry -- a small man with a great voice, who standing in the organ gallery, was wont to make the whole church resound with his strong, deep and grave tones. It was the forte, and the proposed system of the Methodists, to have very superior and attractive singing -- always of such popular cast and spirit, as would easiest please the ear and enchain the attention; and it well succeeded with all those who were unsophisticated with high artificial refinements. The "sweet singer" of that church, familiarly called "Johnny Hood", (as was much the wont of that day with all familiar and cherished names) was himself a singer wholly of nature's own make, one who had never learned one note of gamut-music, and yet he never jarred or failed ! His sweet smiling face too, whilst he sang, was only equalled by the charm of his clear, mellifluous voice. His utterance, too, was so clear and distinct, as that most people could join in his singing without a book, following only his words. The Methodist churches had a quicker and more animated style of singing at all times, than prevailed in the slower, heavier cadence of the other churches of the city. It was not uncommon to find many persons who went purposely to Methodist churches to hear the singing. We have known such "who remained to pray". The very first perceptible innovations in the public singing of the Protestant churches, generally, was seen to come in from that cast and character of public singing which has been seen to catch the curious and artificially prepared ears of the amateurs. This style of singing and chanting was first witnessed in Philadelphia in the Papal churches, and came to be but slowly imitated. At last, however, by the force and prevalence of the piano teachers, a style of lessons came to be imposed, which put down natural music in churches, almost as generally as in parlours. In the present day, there is no very marked difference in the general appearance of the congregations who worship in the different churches in the city. But there was a marked distinctive difference formerly. The Episcopalians showed most grandeur of dress and costume, -- next the Presbyterians, -- the gentlemen of whom freely indulged in powdered and frizzled hair; -- the Baptists showed a graver and humbler style, with scarcely any powdered head visible among them. The Methodists desired to be "a peculiar people", and for a time effected their purpose. No powdered heads of men, and no gay bonnets or ribands {ribbon} were to be seen among them. It was really so, that persons gaily dressed shunned to go there lest they might be "preached at". We could name such an individual, with powdered and toupeed hair and ruffles over his hands, who was so preached at, and afterwards became a Methodist preacher himself. They aimed in general to dress much like the Friends, except that they intended not to be mistaken for them, and therefore they wore collars to their coats, and their clothes of various colours -- avoiding only such as should be esteemed gay -- and such as were drab, because that colour was then a much more prevalent one among the Friends than now. Indeed, it was the exclusiveness of this drab to them, then, as a class, which caused the sneering Tom Paine to say, that if they had their will, there would be nothing but drab as a colour to all created things ! The Methodists all wore "shad breasted " coats, and low-crowned hats; -- the women all wore plain black satin bonnets -- straw bonnets were never seen among them -- no white dresses -- no jewellery -- no rings. No male persons were to be seen with tied or queued hair, but lank long locks straitly combed down in thick and natural profusion. The females wore no curls, no side locks, or lace or ornaments. Their ministers, as such, could be readily recognized when abroad in the streets. They moved with solemn looks and pace -- never in black, but in a kind of "parsonic attire" called "parsons' gray" -- a gray in which a proportion of blue was given -- their coats were without lapels -- and their hats were generally white and large-brimmed. They wore small clothes and vests of cotton-velvet of olive colour, and sometimes of black-lastings, such as are now used in shoes. Their bishop, Asbury, wore an entire suit of blue-gray cloth, with a big white hat, and a fine, solemn, venerable looking man he surely was. He had greatly the dignity and port of a ruler. Such was the adherence to the things afore mentioned for principles' sake, that it was long before all these distinctive marks of a people could be broken down. The first ministers that wore pantaloons and frock coats were scarcely tolerated; and the members who first began to wear lapels and frock coats, and the women to wear straw bonnets, were subjects of concern. But in time, as if wearied in watching at invading breaches -- one and another of the barriers which marked them from the world around them gave way -- and now, if the heart be right, they leave their own consciences to regulate their sumptuary obligations. It might be remarked also, that they did not as a people value or expect an educated ministry. They went solely upon "the call", and upon that, like the Friends, they rested their sufficiency, as "able ministers". In this way it occasionally happened, that "Black Harry" who accompanied Mr. Asbury as his travelling assistant or servant, would serve the pulpit as a preacher, although he knew not a letter. He has so preached in Philadelphia. It may be remarked also, that the Methodists were not originally an Episcopacy in this country -- they were "followers of Mr. Wesley". Their first leaders here -- Asbury, Whatcoat and Coke, were "superintendents" under Mr. Wesley, who himself earnestly disclaimed Episcopacy for himself and people ; -- but in time, Mr. Asbury took the title of bishop -- which title has since been perpetuated, on the ground, that as the epithet of bishop meant in effect a superintendency or oversight, in the original Greek, it was at most a harmless conformity with apostolic usage to use the term Bishop (Episcopus) for the future. From these, as a precedent, arose afterwards in Philadelphia, among the coloured Methodists, the separate Methodist church of Episcopal order. It was begun under Richard Allen, who finding himself in the actual ministry of the first black church in Philadelphia, chose to assume the title of bishop, and has since ordained many other ministers. They thus propose to preserve their perpetuity and independency in their own way. Such independency to Bishop Allen may have been peculiarly sweet, for he, like another Onesimus, had once been a servant. He had belonged to the Chew family. In the mean time, the Presbyterians, as if less reverent to bishops as a class of eminence, have latterly grown into the occasional practice, in a semi-official way, of calling any of their ministry bishops. They had always regarded "presbyter" and "bishop" as convertible terms, but until lately, we had never noticed the use of the single title of bishop to those who were only ordained as presbyters. We believe the first departure from the former practice occurred in some of the controversial writings of Dr. Ely of Philadelphia. We give the forgoing "notitia" of passing events, as "notes by the way", and as marking such changes and characteristics in matters and things as it is our proper business to express. Chapter 75. HOSPITALS The earliest Hospital, separate from the Poor-house, to which in early times it was united, was opened and continued for several years in the house known as "Judge Kinsey's dwelling and orchard" -- the same two-story double-front brick house now on the south side of High street, third door west from Fifth street. The Hospital there, nearly eighty years ago, was under the general government of Mrs. Elizabeth Gardiner, as matron. In the year 1750 several public spirited gentlemen set on foot a proposition for another and more convenient building than was before possessed for the sick at the Poor-house -- then on the lot occupying the square from Spruce to Pine street, and from Third to Fourth street. By the MS. Diary of John Smith, Esq., I see noted that on the 4th of 5mo. 1751, he with other managers of the Hospital Fund, went out to inspect several lots for a place for a Hospital, and he states that none of them pleased them so much as one on the south side of Arch street between Ninth and Tenth streets. But afterwards, on the 11th of 8th mo. 1751, he notes that he, with Dr. Bond and Israel Pemberton, inspected the late dwelling-house of E. Kinsey, Esq., and were of the opinion it would be a suitable place to begin the hospital. The year 1751, therefore, marks the period at which the Hospital in High street began. It there continued four or five years. The Pennsylvania Hospital was founded in the year 1755. At the occasion of laying the corner stone, the celebrated John Key, "the first born" was present from Chester county. The inscription of the corner stone, composed by Dr. Franklin, reads thus : "In the year of Christ MDCCLV George the Second happily reigning, (For he sought the happiness of his people,) Philadelphia flourishing, (For its inhabitants were public spirited,) This building, By the bounty of the government, And of many private Persons, Was piously founded For the relief of the sick and miserable, May the God of Mercies Bless the Undertaking." When the Hospital was first placed there it was deemed very far out of town, and was approached not by present recilineal streets, but across commons the length of several squares. The only building then finished for several years was the present eastern wing, then entered by its front gate on Eighth street. I have seen in the possession of Mr. B. Otis, portrait painter, a large coloured engraving of the Hospital and Poor-house near by, and all the scenery of the adjacent open commons, as drawn by Nicholas Garrison, about the time of 1768. At and before the year 1740 it was the practice when sick emigrants arrived, to place them in empty houses about the city. Sometimes diseases were imparted to the neighbourhood, as once occurred, particularly at Willing's alley. On such occasions physicians were provided for them at the public expense. The Governor was induced in 1741, to suggest the procuring of a Pest-house or Hospital; and in 1742 a Pest-house was erected on Fisher's island, called afterwards Province Island, because it was purchased and owned by the province, for the use of sick persons arriving from sea. Chapter 76. POOR - HOUSES The original Poor-house for the city was located down town, on a green meadow, extending from Spruce to Pine streets, and from Third to Fourth streets. Its front was to the east, and nearest to Third street. Its great gate was on Spruce street, and its entrance by Third street was by a stile ! The house was such a structure as to height and general appearance as that of the Friends' Almshouse in Walnut street; it had a piazza all round. It contained the sick and insane as well as the poor. There were also some parts of the necessary buildings formed near the corner of Union and Fourth streets, on the site now occupied as the premises of Doctor Physick, from which cause, I find, in 1758 it was called "the Alms-house down Fourth street", and "the Alms-house square", &c. The present Alms-house out Spruce street, begun in 1760, was first occupied in the year 1767. The square of nearly four hundred feet square, on which the buildings stand, cost then but 800 Pounds. Who can tell its rise of value since ! It was then, however, quite a place in the country, and near the woods, and having a fine orchard on the square on its northern front. Chapter 77. LIBRARIES We are indebted to Doctor Franklin for the first project of a public library. He started one in 1731, consisting of thirty-eight persons, to pay 40s. each, and to contribute afterwards 10s. annually. It was at first located in a chamber of Robert Grace's house in Pewter Platter alley. In 1740 it was placed in the State-house. In 1773 it went to Carpenters' Hall till 1790, when the present library was built and received the books. It was incorporated in the year 1742, as "the Library Company of Philadelphia". Previous to this company the members of the Junto used to each bring their books to their debating room, and leave them there as common stock at Grace's house -- the same premises, I believe, now belonging to Benjamin Horner. In 1759, Governor Denney confirmed the charter of "the Union Library of Philadelphia". They built themselves the neat house still standing at the corner of Third and Pear streets. About the same time, in 1757, I notice an advertisement to call the members of "the Association Library" to meet at their literary room in Laetitia court. In 1769 it is announced in the Gazette that "the Union Library", which had existed many years, resolved to merge itself into "the Library Company of Philadelphia", and thus to make but one institution. At one time, as I was told by the aged Isaac Parrish, the Union Library kept their books and reading room in Chestnut street, in the second house from Second street, south side. They went up stairs by a flight of steps on the outside. The Loganian Library of nearly three thousand volumes was the generous gift of James Logan, Esq., to the city of Philadelphia for ever, together with a house and 30 Pounds per annum. In 1792, his son James procured an act of the Legislature, vesting the library, &c., in "the Library Company of Philadelphia" -- thus eventually merging "the Library Company of Philadelphia", "the Union Library of Philadelphia", and "the Loganian Library", all three in one -- "tria una in juncta". Chapter 78. TAVERNS In the primitive days the grant of tavern licenses was restricted to widows and occasionally to decrepit men of good character. I am aware of this fact from inspecting several of the early petitions of about the year 1700 for such licenses. In the year 1683, William Penn's letter says : "We have seven ordinaries for the entertainment of strangers and workmen that are not housekeepers, and a good meal is to be had for sixpence sterling". There was, however, at an early period much effort made by base people to keep private tippling houses, which were ferreted out by the Grand Juries with much vigilence. In 1709, the Grand Jury present many tippling and disorderly houses. In 1714, no less than thirty-five true bills were found against unlicensed taverns in one session ! In 1744, the Grand Jury present the enormous increase of public houses as a great nuisance, and they say it appears by constable returns that there are then upwards of a hundred houses licensed, which, with all the retailers, make the houses which sell drink nearly a tenth part of the city! In 1752, there were found in the city a hundred and twenty taverns with licenses, and a hundred and eighteen houses that sold rum by the quart. In 1756, the number of licensed inns in the city were ascertained to be a hundred and seventeen. In 1759 -- until this year it had been the occasional practice for Justices of the peace to hear and to decide causes at public inns, which was found to have a demoralizing effect in bringing so many people to drinking places. The Governor therefore in this year publicly forbids its use any longer. The Common Council itself, in the year 1704, dated its minutes at an inn and at the Coffee House. The late Indian King tavern in High street near Third street was the oldest inn in the city, and was in numerous years among the most respectable; when kept by Mr. Riddle it was indeed a famous house. There the Junto held their club, and assembled such men as Doctor Franklin, Hugh Roberts, Charles Thomsen, &c. In the year 1742 it was kept by Peter and Jonathon Robeson. The Crooked Billet Inn on the wharf above Chestnut street (end of the first alley) was the tavern of longest "uninterrupted succession" in the city, being named in earliest times, but it has ceased its operations as an inn some years past. It was the first house entered in Philadelphia, in 1723, by Doctor Franklin in his first visit to the city. It then was a more considerable building than afterwards, having then its front upon Water street, and extending to the river. The Pewter Platter Inn once stood at the corner of Front and Jones' alley; its sign was a large pewter platter. The oddity of the device made it so famous that it gave a lasting name to the alley, to the utter oblivion of Jones' name. A Mrs. Jones kept a celebrated public house in the old two-story house now adjoining the south end of the City Tavern; besides its present front on Second street it had a front towards Walnut street, with a fine green court yard all along that street quite down to Dock creek. At that house Richard Penn and other governors, generals and gentry used to be feasted. The tavern was designated by the sign of the Three crowns. The present City Tavern adjoining it was erected on the site of two frame buildings* in the year 1770. [* Those two-story frames were once "the timber houses" of Edward Shippen, Sen., sold to Samuel Powell, to which family the present Coffee House belongs.] It was then made a distinguished eating and boarding house. In later time it took the name of Coffee House, had a portico formed in front, and its former smaller rooms opened into one general front room. A very noted public house, in the colonial days, was Pegg Mullen's "beef-steak house", on the east side of Water street, at the corner of Wilcox's alley; she was known and visited by persons from Boston to Georgia. Now, the house, herself, and all who feasted there, are gone -- for ever gone ! The late aged Colonel Morris says it was the fashionable house of his youthful days. Governor Hamilton, and other governors, held their clubs in that house -- there the Free Masons met, and most of the public parties and societies. The alley was called "Mullen's alley", and the site was the same where Robert Morris built up his range of stores, on the north side of the Mariners' church. It was also the same premises originally of the Mariners' church. It was also the same premises originally belonging to Carpenter, where he made many primitive buildings on a large scale. The stores were of wood, and stood next south of Pegg Mullen's, which was on the south-east corner of the alley -- "Carpenter's wharf" was at the same place. In the year 1768-9, Mrs. Graydon opened a celebrated boarding house "up Front street", at Drinker's house, at the north corner of Drinker's alley. That house had generally several British and other officers as inmates, and at different times was nearly filled by officers of the 42nd Highland and Royal Irish. Baron de Kalb boarded there -- Lady Moore and Lady Susan O'Brien. Sir William Draper too (immortalized by Junius !) was an inmate, and while in Philadelphia was distinguished as a great racket player. At one time he was a resident at Newbern, North Carolina, living among them without display, as if seeking to hide himself from the lash of Junius. Dibley's tavern was an ancient house of some note in its day, at the east corner of Bank alley and Chestnut street, where Hide once had his dwelling and book bindery. At that house an event occurred, about the year 1782, sufficiently remarkable for romance; indeed it gave rise to some poetry which I have seen. A man came there to be an upper ostler, having with him a wife and two daughters (young women grown) of great gentility and beauty; and the whole family being in much poverty, made use of the harness room over the stable for their dwelling ! The case was this, viz : The ostler, on an excursion in Maryland as a horse jockey, heard of a widow S. as a lady of wealth; by dress and pretensions he succeeded to marry her; he lived extravagantly, and brought the family to ruin. They came to Philadelphia to hide themselves from their former intimates. After trying several expedients without success, he began as the ostler to Dibley. The daughters were very pretty and engaging; one attracted the attentions of a French gentleman who kept his horse at the stable, and he made interest with the father, but the girl saw cause to repel him. To avoid her father's control, she sought a place in Mrs. Dibley's house as a seamstress for a few weeks, and to be concealed from her father's knowledge. She had been there but a day or so, when she was seen accidently by Mr. M. of Mount Holly, a rich iron-master. He was instantly pleased with her charms; inquired into her history of the landlady, made overtures of marriage -- was accepted -- presented the young lady 2000 dollars for wedding preparations -- soon he married her and took her to his home in Mount Holly, and being a very popular man, had great entertainments at his mansion; among the rest a great ball, in which his bride danced with great grace; her exertions to please and entertain her guests led her into unusual perspiration, and in going into the entry where the air was cool, she took a chill, and in five days after her wedding, died, being but the seventh week after their acquaintance ! The generous husband was inconsolable; he fell into frequent convulsions the night of her interment, for she was buried by torchlight, after the English manner, in solemn pomp. {Mr. M. was a bachelor of about fifty, and she but eighteen years of age.} After this he took the younger sister under his care, settled a large estate upon her, and she married to advantage. Such singular transitions in one family in so short a time were indeed rare. I have heard all these incidents from a lady who was one of the guests, both at the wedding and at the funeral. The foregoing notices all preceded my personal recollections. Those remembered by me as most conspicuous, forty-five years ago, were the St. George and Dragon, at the south-west corner of Arch and Second streets; the Indian Queen, by Francis, in south Fourth street above Chestnut street, where Jefferson, in his chamber there, as was mistakingly alleged, first wrote the celebrated Declaration of Independence -- an original paper which I am gratified to say I have seen and handled; the old fashioned inn owned by Sober, south-west corner of Chestnut and Fourth streets, and called the Cross Keys Inn, by Campbell -- pulled down to make way for the present Philadelphia Bank -- it was a house so old, with double hipped roof fronting Fourth street, that they knew no Chestnut street to which to conform its gable end, and fairly set it down close by the gutter side, leaving no proper foot pavement to foot passengers in after years ! Another Cross Keys Inn (once Governor Lloyd's dwelling) was kept by Israel Israel, at the north-east corner of Third and Chestnut streets. Mrs. Jenkins once kept a famous house in Market above Fourth street; and the Conestoga Inn, by Major Nicholls, in the same neighbourhood, was quite a military and western-man hotel. There used to be a very old two-story frame building used as a public house, called the Black Bear, on the south side of High street, about forty yards eastward of Fifth street -- it was a great resort, for many years, of western people and wagons; it stood on an elevated ground, and had a great wagon yard; it is now all superseded by large modern houses, and the old concern has backed out upon Fifth street. The George Inn, at the south-west corner of Arch and Second streets, so called from its sign of St. George and the Dragon, had at one time the greatest reputation and the biggest landlord in the city. "Mine host" was Michael Dennison, an Englishman, who made his house at once popular to Britons as a countryman, and to American travelling gentlemen as the great concentration of the northern and southern stages. My friend, Lang Syne, has furnished some reminiscences of the inn, its landlord and guests, preserved in my MS. Annals in the Historical Society, page 525, from which I shall take occasion here to insert some lines of poetry made upon Mr. Dennison's quitting the concern and going back to England with his acquired riches, to wit : Lines on Michael Dennison. His bulk increased by ale and venison, Alas ! we soon must lose good Dennison, City of Penn ! his loss deplore, Although with pain his bulk you bore ! Michael, farewell ! Heaven speed thy course, Saint George take with thee and thy horse; But to our hapless city kind, The watchful Dragon leave behind. Michael ! your wealth and full-spread frame, Shall publish Pennsylvania's fame. Soon as the planks beneath you crack, The market shall be hung with black. Michael ! her stores might sure content ye; In Britain, none boast greater plenty; The Bank shall with the market join, To weep at once -- thee, and thy coin; Thy guineas, ranged in many a pile, Shall swell the pride of Britain's Isle; Whilst England's Bank shall smiling greet, The wealth that came from Chestnut street. Finally, as a supplement to the whole, the reader is presented with some notices of tavern signs, such as they generally were in times by-gone. Indeed, the character of signs in general was different from things now. The storekeepers as well as taverns hung out their signs to the extremity of the foot pavement; tailors had the sign of the Hand and Shears -- druggists the Pestle and Mortar -- tobacco sellers showed a Pipe -- school masters a Hand and Pen -- blacksmiths the Hand and Hammer. Among the taverns was Admiral Warren, the Turk's Head, the Rattlesnake, the Queen of Hungary, the Queen's Head, the Blue Lion, and last not least, "the man loaded with mischief", (carrying a wife on his back), an inn at the corner uniting Little Dock and Spruce streets, north side. In Front street above the Drawbridge was a fine painted sign, in fine keeping for a "mirth house" -- a fiddler in good style scraping his instrument "as though it wept and moaned its wasted tones". When the sign of Franklin was set up at Homly's inn, in 1774, at the south-west corner of Walnut and Fifth streets, it was supported by this couplet -- "Come view your patriot father ! and your friend, And toast to freedom, and to slavery's end !" In conclusion, I add the notices of my friend Lang Syne, who manifests some tact in this matter, to wit : The reminiscence of some gentleman of the "Old School", in the progress of sign painting (not lettering) in this city, for the last fifty years, would be a good subject for a leading article in one of our magazines. The first sign I remember to have noticed was one "down town", of a group of dogs barking at a full moon, which, smiling down upon them, said "Ye foolish dogs, why bark ye so, When I'm so high, and ye're so low ?" Another in Third street, of Sir Walter Raleigh smoking, his servant throwing water over him, thinking his master to be on fire. Another, of a man "struggling through the world" -- (a globe). These must have been very inferior articles, but at the time very interesting, in my judgement. "Creeping lazily to school", I have often loitered, sometimes looking through the office windows of Squire Fleeson, (north-west corner of Chestnut and Fourth streets) and the shop door of George Rutter, gazing upon the wonders (to me) of his pencil, in a variety of finished and unfinished signs -- consequently often "out of time" at the Quaker Academy over the way, for which I was sure to feel "the flesh creep" under "the strap" well laid on by old John Todd. How often have I stood viewing the productions of Rutter's pencil, in different parts of the city -- his Fox-chase, Stag hunt, the hounds in full cry. At the north-west corner of Third and Market streets one Brooks had a delightful sign of an Indian Chief, drawing his arrow to the head at a bounding deer. These have all gone with Rutter to "the Capulets", or like Caesar's clay, "May stop a hole to keep the wind away." When they first numbered the houses he painted the finger-boards for the corners; one of which, the "last of the Mohicans", may be seen at the corner of Fifth and Spruce streets, (south-west), and though nearly defaced by time, forms a contrast to the clumsy handboards that succeeded them. The sign of a cock picking up a wheat ear drew the public attention to Pratt, who painted also "the Federal Convention" -- a scene within "Independence Hall" -- George Washington, President; William Jackson, Secretary; the members in full debate, with likenesses of many of those political "giants in those days" -- such as Franklin, Mifflin, Madison, "Bob" Morris, Judge Wilson, Hamilton, &c. This invaluable sign, which should have been copied by some eminent artist, and engraved for posterity, was bandied about, like the "casa santa" of Loretto, from "post to pillar", till it located in South street near the Old Theater. The figures are now completely obliterated by a heavy coat of brown paint, on which is lettered Fed. Con. 1787. Another observer says : the subject is so far from exhausted, that old signs, from various quarters, still crowd upon my remembrance; in particular I remember a very hideous one of Hudibras, which was placed at a tavern in Second street, near the entrance into the old Barracks, to which was affixed the following couplet : "Sir Hudibras once rode in state, Now sentry stands at Barracks' gate." I am unwilling to leave unnoticed a new edition of one of our ancient subjects for a sign, where it has been continued for a great number of years, at a very old beer house in Chestnut near Front street; it is now, or lately was, the "Turk's Head", but in the former part of last century was "Kouli Khan", when the fame of that conqueror was once a great favourite, and still maintains his sway in some places, so that I have known a landlord, upon the decrease of his custom, to again have recourse to the old subject for a sign, that the house was formerly known by, with good success. The Bull's Head Inn, No. 18 Strawberry alley, had a finely executed sign of a bull's head, which was lately sold to an Englishman as the remains of something done by Benjamin West. West once lived in that alley when young. It was well done, but after the said sale, it came out that it had been painted by one Bernard Wilton, a painter and glazier who came from England in 1760, and kept his shop at the corner of the alley and Chestnut street. One day, while sitting in that tavern, when it had no sign, a farmer's bull chanced to push his head in at the window. The painter, seizing upon the occasion, said it should prove a lucky hit, for he should paint the subject for a sign and so let the fact and the sign attract custom together. But B. West did paint a sign in Swanson street : -- the carriers of a cask of beer. I should suppose, too, he painted the sign of the Fiddler, still preserved by Mr. Wiliamson, druggist. An old gentleman says there used to be, in war times and after, a sign painted by Benjamin West. It was in Swanson street below William Cliffton's smith shop; one side represented a man sitting, I think, on a bale and holding up a glass of liquor as if looking through it. This was on the north side, and was somewhat weather-beaten; on the other side the colours, still fresh and lively, represented two brewer's porters carrying a cask of beer, slung with can hooks to a pole, which was in olden time the way beer was carried out. Often in going down to a launching I have stopped to admire it. I had very direct information of his being the painter. The same gentleman says he used to catch sun-fish in the Blue House pond, [this proves its alleged connexion once running down to Dock creek via Union street.] There were leeches in it also; he could not remember its outlet. Old Robert Venables told me it was called Blue House because of the colour of the mortar outside, with which it was plastered. It was celebrated for its garden, and was deemed very far out of town. "Peg Mullen's" was the south corner, or next the corner, of Tun alley. An old gentleman, who remembers it and its vicinity, says that rump steaks, cut with the grain, and only one brought in at a time, was the order -- always red hot and no detention. Fifty years ago Mullen's Dock was the famous swimming-place for boys. I have seen more than 100 in the water there at once. The Dock extended from Morris' stores towards Walnut street. It was good gravel bottom. During the war, 25 prize New York pilot-boats were in it. They were named the Mosquito fleet, and were taken by a Philadelphia privateer. In the Indian Queen tavern, south Fourth street, in the second story front room south end, Jefferson had his desk and room where he wrote and studied, and from that cause, it has been a popular opinion that he there wrote his "Declaration of Independence". I have seen the place of the desk, by the side of the fire place west side, as pointed out by Caesar Rodney's son. But my friend, John McAllister, told me in 1833, that he was told by the stepmother of the present Hon. John Sergeant, that Dr. Mease had inquired of Jefferson himself, by letter, and that he was informed by him that when he wrote that instrument, he lived in a large new house, belonging to the Hiltzheimer family, up Market street at the south-west corner of some crossing street. Mrs. Sergeant said there was no doubt it was the same since so well known as Gratz's store, a south-west corner of Seventh and High streets. In the rear of said inn, in the yard and extending northward, is a long house of two story brick stabling, with a good cupola, thought by some to have been once made for a market house. It might look as if it had seen better days, but a very aged man told me it was used as stables, in his youth, to the Indian Queen inn, then at the south-east corner of High and Fourth streets, kept by Little, and afterwards by Thomson. Graydon also spoke of those stables and of the inn at the corner by the widow Nicholls, in 1760, of seeing there many race horses. The vane on the stables has some shot holes in it, made by some of the Paxtang boys, who came into the city in 1755, after the accommodation, and took up their quarters on the inn premises. A tavern, "far out of town", once occupied the site of the present beautiful St. Philip's church on the north side of Vine street, between Seventh and Eighth streets. The tavern was old, built of wood and red painted. It was for years the great rendezvous for the enlistments for the army in the revolution, and for the Indian wars afterwards. It was afterwards much of a home for drovers' cattle. Between it and the city were extensive green commons and sheep-grazing, &c. The Indian King, the oldest inn in High street, sold for 42,000 dollars in 1831 and was pulled down to make large stores. The Prussia Inn, kept by a Prussian colonel, long owned by the Wister family, standing on the north side of High street between Third and Fourth streets, consisted originally of two three-storied brick houses, built in 1731, and which rented together to the year 1798, for only 400 dollars a year. Then they were converted into stores. Lately, they have been pulled down, and new stores of four stories put in their place at 2000 dollars each by contract, which together now bring 4000 dollars a year rent ! Thus the houses which only brought 400 dollars bring now 4000 dollars in the lifetime of the same, and but middle aged owners. Chapter 79. THEATRES Much opposition was originally made to the introduction of theatrical entertainments into Philadelphia, chiefly by the religious part of the community. From this cause, those which were first regularly established, opened their houses just beyond the bounds and control of the city officers. Finally, when it was first attempted to set up the Chestnut street theatre in the city in 1793, great efforts were made by both parties to get up memorials pro and con. The earliest mention of theatrical performance occurred in the year 1749, in the month of January. Then the recorder of the city reported to the common council, that certain persons had lately taken upon them to act plays in the city, and, as he was informed, intended to make frequent practice thereof, which, it was to be feared, would be attended with very mischievous effects -- such as the encouragement of idleness, and drawing great sums of money from weak and inconsiderate persons, who are apt to be fond of such kind of entertainment, though the performance be ever so mean and contemptible; whereupon the board unanimously requested the magistrates to take the most effectual measures for suppressing this disorder, by sending for the actors, and binding them to their good behaviour, or by such other means as they should think proper. From this premises it is probable they were Thespians of home-made production, of such untutored genius as had never trod the stage. In the year 1754 some real Thespians arrived, called "Hallam's Company" from London, including Mrs. Hallam and her two sons. In the month of March they obtained license to act a few plays in Philadelphia, conditioned that they offered nothing indecent or immoral. In April they opened their "new theatre in Water street" -- a store of William Plumstead's, corner of the first alley above Pine street. Their first entertainment was the Fair Penitent, and Miss in her Teens. -- Box, 6s., pit, 4s. and gallery, 2s. 6d., said to have been offered "to a numerous and polite audience", -- terms of attraction intended for the next play. In the prologue to the first performance some hints at their usefulness as moral instructors were thus enforced, to wit : "Too oft, we own, the stage with dangerous art, In wanton scenes, has play'd a Syren's part, Yet if the Muse, unfaithful to her trust, Has sometimes stray'd from what was pure and just; Had she not oft, with awful virtue's rage, Struck home at vice, and nobly trod the stage? Then as you'd treat a favourite fair's mistake, Pray spare her foibles for her virtue's sake; And whilst her chastest scenes are made appear (For none but such will find admittance here) The muse's friends, we hope, will join the cause, And crown our best endeavours with applause." In the mean time those who deemed them an evil to society were very busy in distributing pamphlets gratis, if possible, to write them down. They continued, however, their plays till the month of July. We hear nothing of this company again till their return in 1759; they then came in the month of July to a theatre prepared the year before at the south-west corner of Vernon and South street, called the theatre on "Society Hill". It was there placed on the south side of the city bounds, so as to be out of the reach of city control, by city authorities; and "Society Hill", itself was a name only, having no laws. Great efforts were now made by the friends and other religious people to prevent plays even there; much was written and printed pro and con. The Presbyterians Synod, in July 1759, formally addressed the governor and legislature to prevent it. The Friends made their application to Judge William Allen to repress them. His reply was repulsive, saying he had got more moral virtue from plays than from sermons. As a sequel, it was long remembered that the night the theatre opened, and to which he intended to be a gratified spectator, he was called to mourn the death of his wife. This first built theatre was constructed of wood, and it is now standing in the form of three dwelling houses of wood, at the corner of Vernon and South streets. The chief players then were Douglass, who married Mrs. Hallam; the two Hallams, her sons; and Misses Cher and Morris. Francis Mentages, afterwards an officer in our service, was the dancing performer -- while he danced, he assumed the name of Francis. The motto of the stage was " Totis mundis agit histronem". F. Mentges had talents above his original profession, and was, in the time of the Revolution, esteemed a good officer, and was continued in the United States services' long after the peace. In the course of ten years these comedians had so far acted themselves into favour as to need more room, and therefore they had got themselves ready, by the year 1760, to open another theatre -- a larger building, constructed of wood, situated also in South street, above Fourth street, and still keeping within the line of Southwark and beyond the bounds of city surveillance. The managers were Hallam and Henry. To evade the law the bills used to read --"a Concert of music", after which will be presented gratis a lecture or dialogue on the vice of scandal, &c., giving a few lines of the play. As a parting measure, in quitting their former theatre for the last mentioned one, they, in 1759, announced their regard to church by proposing to give the play of George Barnwell "at their theatre on Society hill", as a benefit to the College of Philadelphia, "for improving the youth in the divine art of psalmody and church music", meaning thereby to help to buy an organ for the use of the charity children in the old academy. While the British occupied Philadelphia, they held regular plays in the Southwark theatre, the performers being officers of Howe's army -- the box tickets at one dollar, and the proceeds used for the widows and orphans of soldiers. Major Andre' and Captain Delancy were the chief scene painters. The waterfall scene, drawn by the former, continued on the curtain as long as that theatre lasted. It was burnt down a few years ago. When the theatre was erected in Chestnut street in 1793, it received and retained the name of the "New Theatre", in contradistinction to the Southwark theatre, which afterwards generally was called the old theatre. Mr. Wignell was the first manager. There was a small wooden theatre, about the year 1790, on the wharf up at Noble street; it was turned into a boat shed. "Jack Durang", as Scaramouch, is all that is remembered by those who saw the company of that day. The reminiscences of the "old theatre" of 1788-98, as furnished by friend Lang Syne, are to the following effect, to wit : "The old theatre (Southwark) was the only theatre with a regular company, all 'Stars', in the United States, or at that time in the new world. The building, compared with the new houses, was an ugly ill-contrived affair outside and inside. The stage lighted by plain oil lamps without glasses. The view from the boxes was intercepted by large square wooden pillars supporting the upper tier and roof. It was contended by many, at the time, that the front bench in the gallery was the best seat in the house for a fair view of the whole stage. "The stage box on the east side was decorated with suitable emblems for the reception of President Washington, whenever he delighted the audience by his presence; at which time the Poor Soldier was invariably played by his desire. 'Old Hallam' prided himself on his unrivalled Lord Ogleby in the Clandestine Marriage, and Mungo in the Padlock. 'Old Henry' was the pride of the place in Irishmen. An anecdote is related of his being one night in a passionate part, and whirling his cane about, when it flew out of his hand into the pit, without doing any damage; on its being handed to him, he bowed elegantly and said, in character, 'Faith, whenever I fly in a passion my cane flies too.' Another; that, on being hit with an orange from the gallery, he picked it up, and bowing said, 'That's no Seville orange'. "A gentleman of this city, known familiarly to the inhabitants generally as 'Nick Hammond', used to play for his amusement in Jews. Wignell's Darby was always beheld with raptures. Hodgkinson was the universal favourite in Tragedy, Comedy, Opera and Farce, and was supposed to be one of the best actors of 'All Work', that ever trod the boards. His Robin, in No Song No Supper, and Wignell's Darby, in the Poor Soldier, were rivals in the public taste, and have never been equalled here. Does none remember? About this time Wignell and Reinagle being about to build a new theatre, the corner stone of which had been laid at the north-west corner of Sixth and Chestnut streets, and Wignell having started 'for England', to beat up for theatrical forces, Hallam and Henry made arrangements to retire from 'Old South' to New York, where an immense pile of stone work was put up opposite the Park, for their reception, as a theatre. The old company went out, and the new company came into public notice, in the winter of 1793. The only house on the 'other side of the gutter' at the time, was Ooler's Hotel, which was fired by flames from Ricketts' Circus, (erected some years afterwards) and both were burnt to the ground one evening." Chapter 80. CUSTOM HOUSES Among the earliest remembered Custom Houses, and Collectors of Customs, was William Peters, Esq., father of the late Judge Peters; then succeeded Abraham Taylor, Esq. -- these kept their offices at their own dwellings. Next followed John Swift, Esq., who had his residence and office in the house now Henry Pratt's, in Front below Race street. He continued in office from the year 1760 to the time of the revolution. The first collector after the revolution was Frederick Phile, who had his office in Second street above Christ church, 'vis-a-vis' the Sorrel Horse inn. From thence he removed it to the corner of Blackhorse alley and Front street. After this the office was held by Sharp Delany, Esq., who dwelt at the south-east corner of Walnut and Second streets, and there did the business of the port of Philadelphia, within my recollection -- these were "the days of small things". Its next remove was to something greater, to wit : to "Ross' buildings", a collection of two or three good houses on the east side of Front street below Walnut street. As business increased, the government of the United States finally determined on building the present large Custom House in south Second street. In providing for that location they pulled down a large expensive house, not long built there by Doctor Hunter, as a laboratory, &c. There was a tradition that the very old buildings which till lately stood on Walnut street, at the south-east corner of Third and Walnut streets, had been "the old custom house", but I never had any facts to sustain the idea, until they were confirmed to me by direct facts from the aged Mr. Richardson of the Mint. Delaney's dwelling house, adjoined his custom house, as above; and at the rear of his house, fronting on Dock street, stood a house of lath and plaster, marked 1686, a real primitive ! Chapter 81. BANKS Our city enjoys the pre-eminence in this department of finance as having been the first city in the union to establish a bank. The first permanent bank was that of the North America in Chestnut street, although it is also true that there was a earlier one called "the Bank of Pennsylvania", established by some patriotic gentlemen in 1780, for the avowed `temporary' purpose of "supplying the army of the United States with provisions for two months" -- creating thereby a specie subscription of 300,000 Pounds by about ninety persons, and the two highest subscriptions by Robert Morris and Blair M'Clenachan -- 10,000 Pounds each. The particulars of this bank may be seen in Hazard's Register of Pennsylvania, vol. ii, p.250. The Bank of North America, founded in 1781 by Congress, began its career of specie with coin sent out from France, at the instance of Robert Morris, by Mr. De Chaumont -- it was landed at Boston. This fact was told me by Mrs. Morris not long since. She also told me that the same generous friend, Mr. De Chaumont, extended to her an annual pension, by which she was enabled to live without assistance from others. From the government her husband had so nobly served she received no succours. Coin sent to this country to pay the French army, and not a little left among us by the British enemy, was sufficiently present to form a starting specie basis. On page 248 of my MS. Annals in the City Library is an exhibition of a small "one penny bill" of the Bank of North America, of the year 1789. It is to be sure a small exhibit of a National Bank, but it had much greater concerns; and its history, as an eventual restorer of sound credit and a good circulating medium, is already familiar to the public. The little bill reads --- "The President and Directors of the Bank of North America promise to pay to the bearer, on demand, one ninetieth of a dollar." "August, 1789 Tench Francis, Cashier." But it was issued to supply change at a time that coppers were debased, and had to be rejected. The corporation of New York issued similar little bills. The next Bank, the Pennsylvania, was originally located in Lodge alley (the same now called Bank street) in a three story double front brick house, which had once been a distinguished lodging house by Mrs. Sword and Mrs. Brodeau. To rear the present stately marble bank, they pulled down several houses which had themselves once enjoyed the reputation of "great things" in their early day. The facts concerning them is all that is intended in this notice, to wit : On Second street, on the south-west corner of Lodge alley, stood D. Griscom's house, of antiquated construction, called in an old Almanack "the first built house of brick* erected in Philadelphia", [ * Leed's Almanac, printed by W. Bradford, New York, 1694, says, it is now eleven years since Andrew Griscom built the first brick house in Philadelphia] -- adjoining to it, southward, stood the house of James Logan, Jun., bought of Thomas Storey, who derived it from the first owner, Edward Shippen, Sen. It was a large house of double front, and a great display of dormer windows, with five or six steps ascent. These two buildings occupied the whole present front of the bank. The latter had "the privilege of the wharf on the dock, at Dock creek, for ever !" On the Lodge alley, westward of the former bank there, stood the Masonic Lodge. The house which had been Shippen's and Storey's was thus described in 1707-8, by Samuel Preston, in his letter to Jonathan Dickinson, then in Jamaica, to wit : "In choosing thee a house I am most inclined to Thomas Storey's -- it adjoins to David Lloyd's [originally Griscom's directly opposite to Norris' slate-house] -- it is most like Edward Shippen's [where is now Waln's row] but larger -- a story higher, and neatlier finished, with garden, out-houses, &c., [down to Dock creek] and I know it will suit, or none in Philadelphia. The rent is prodigious high -- he asks 70 Pounds. I offer 50 Pounds, and rather than fail will give 10 Pounds more". The present Girard's Bank, built originally for the first Bank of the United States, was erected upon what had been the rear of Pemberton's fine garden, upon ground much lower than the present Third street. The Philadelphia Bank occupies the site of an old inn called the Cross Keys, an antiquated house, with double hipped roof, fronting on Fourth street, and having a range of stables at the Fourth street side. It had a heavy brick portico at the front door, and the house stood out far upon Chestnut street pavement. Where the present Bank of the United States now stands was once Norris's house and gardens, once much distinguished as a beautiful place "out of town".