Area History: Watson's Annals of Philadelphia and Pennsylvania, 1857, Vol I: Chapters 82 - 89 Contributed for use in USGenWeb Archives by EVC. USGENWEB NOTICE: Printing this file by non-commercial individuals and libraries is encouraged, as long as all notices and submitter information is included. Any other use, including copying files to other sites requires permission from the submitters PRIOR to uploading to any other sites. We encourage links to the state and county table of contents. ____________________________________________________________ WATSON'S ANNALS of PHILADELPHIA and PENNSYLVANIA Vol. I Written 1830 - 1850 Chapter 82. NORTH END In early times, "North End" was the common name given to the Northern Liberties, when having its only road out Front street. In the present notice it will include the region of Cohocksinc creek over to Kensington, and westward over the former Campington. The object is to bring back to the mind's eye "its face of nature, ere banished and estranged" by improvement. The whole region was originally patented to Jurian Hartsfielder, in 1676, by Governor Andros, of New York government. In ten years afterwards he sold out to D. Pegg his whole three hundred and fifty acres, extending from Cohocksinc creek, his northern line, to Pegg's run, his southern line. That part beyond Cohocksinc, northward, which came under Penn's patent, was bought, in 1718, by J. Dickinson, (say 495 acres) at 26s. 8d. sterling, and extending from the present Fairhill estate over to Bush hill. Part of the same estate has been known in more modern times as "Masters' estate and farm", and some of it is now in possession of Turner Camac, Esq., who married Masters' daughter. The primitive state of the North End, near the Cohocksinc creek, is expressed in a petition of the year 1701, of the country inhabitants (one hundred and fifteen in number) of Germantown, Abington, &c., praying the Governor and Council for a settled road into the city, and alleging that "they have lately been obliged to go round new fences, from time to time set up in the road by Daniel Pegg and Thomas Sison" [the name was spelt Tison in another place.] for that as they cleared their land, they drove the travellers out into uneven roads, and very dangerous for carts to pass upon. They therefore pray "a road may be laid out from the corner of Sison's fence straight over the creek [meaning the Cohocksinc, and also called Stacey's creek] to the corner of John Stacey's field, and afterwards to divide into two branches -- one to Germantown, and the other to Frankford". They add also that Germantown road is most travelled -- taking thereby much lime and meal from three mills, with much malt, and a great deal of wood, timber, &c. At the same time they notice the site of the present long stone bridge and causeway over to Kensington, by saying "they had measured the road that is called the Frankford road, over the long bridge from about the then part of the tobacco field, to a broad stone upon Thomas Sison's hill near his fence, and find it to be three hundred and eighty perches, and from thence to the lower corner of John Stacey's field to the aforesaid tobacco field three hundred and seventy-two perches, beside (along) the meadow and creek by John Stacey's field, and of the latter we had the disadvantage of the woods, having no line to go by, and finding a good road all the way and very good fast lands". I infer from this petition (now in the Logan collection) that they desired the discontinuance of the then road over the long bridge to Frankford**, and that both Germantown and Frankford might be in one, until they passed over the Cohocksinc creek on the present Germantown road, and then the Frankford road should diverge, "by as near a road, having fast land all along". [** It is possible, however, that the long bridge may have been one on piles directly out Front street as it now runs, as such piles were there in my youth, and a narrow causeway. It was either the remains of old time, or it had been made by the British army when they flooded that land.] A letter of Robert Fairman's, of the 30th of 8 mo. 1711, to Jonathan Dickinson, speaks of his having a portion of thirteen acres of his land next the Coxon creek (Cohocksinc) and in Shackamaxo. [Thus determining, as I presume, that Shackamaxon began at Cohocksinc creek, and went up to Gunner's creek.] In another letter of the 12th of 3 mo. 1715, he says, "the old road and the bridge to it being so decayed and dangerous for passengers, my brother Thomas, with Thomas Masters, and others, thought it proper to move your court for a new road, which being granted, a new bridge was made and the road laid out, and timber for the bridge was cut from my plantation next the creek; but not being finished before my brother Thomas died, has been since laid aside, and the old bridge and road repaired and used -- thus cutting through that land of mine and his, so as to leave it common and open to cattle, &c., notwithstanding the new road would have been a better route. This has proceeded from the malice of some who were piqued at my brother". In the year 1713, the Grand Jury, upon an inspection of the state of the causeway and bridge over the Cohocksinc, on the road leading to "the Governor's mill" -- where is now Craig's manufactory -- recommended that a tax of one pence per pound be laid "to repair the road at the new bridge by the Governor's mill, and for other purposes". In 1739 the said mill took fire and was burnt down. It was thought it occurred from the wadding of guns fired at wild pigeons. This mill seems to have been all along an ill adventure; for James Logan, in 1702, speaking of the Governor's two mills, says, "those unhappy expensive mills have cost since his departure upwards of 200 Pounds in dry money. They both go these ten days. The "Town Mill", now (Craig's place) after throwing away 150 Pounds upon her, does exceedingly well, and of a small one is equal to any in the province". The other mill alluded to was at Chester. In 1739, Mrs. Mary Smith and her horse were both drowned "near the long bridge in the Northern Liberties". " `Twas supposed it occurred by her horse attempting to drink at that place where the water is very deep". At the same causeway was quicksand, in which a horse and chair and man all sank ! When the long stone bridge was built, in 1790, (its date is marked thereon and done by Souders) they came, at the foot of the foundation, to several curiosities, described to me by those who saw them, to wit : -- a hickory hand-cuff, perfectly sound -- several leaden weights for weighing -- a quantity of copper farthings, and a stone hollowed out like a box, and having a lid of the same. Old Mr. Wager (the father of the present Wagers) and Major Kissell have both declared, that as much as sixty-six to sixty-eight years ago they had seen small vessels, with falling masts, go up the Cohocksinc creek with grain to the Globe mill -- the same before called the Governor's mill. Old Captain Potts, who lived near there, told me the same thing when I was a boy. While the British army occupied Philadelphia, in the years 1777 and `78, they dammed in all the Cohocksinc meadows, so as to lay them all under water from the river, and thus produced to themselves a water barrier of defence in connexion with their line of redoubts across the north end of the city. Their only road, and gate of egress and ingress northward, was at the head of Front street where it parts to Germantown, and by Kensington to Frankford. On the 29th July, 1824, the course of the Cohocksinc creek was overwhelmed with the heaviest and most sudden torrent of rain ever before remembered. The water rested four feet on the lower floor of Craig's factory. White's dwelling house had nine inches depth on its lower floor. It flowed four feet above the crown of the arch of the bridge at Second street. All this unprecedented flood was occasioned by three hours of rain at midnight. The general desolation that was presented at daylight will be long remembered by those who witnessed it. Formerly, the Delaware made great inroad upon the land at the mouth of the Cohocksinc, making there a large and shallow bay, extending from Point Pleasant down to Warder's long wharf, near Green street. It is but about thirty-six years since the river came up daily close to the houses on Front and Coates' street, and at Coates' street the dock there, made by Budd's wharfed yard, came up to the line of Front street. All the area of the bay (then without the present street east of Front street, and having none of the wharves now there) was an immense plane of spatterdocks, {Note : spatterdocks = a common North American water lily} nearly out to the end of Warder's wharf, and on a line with Point Pleasant. The lower end of Coates' street was then lower than now; and in freshets the river laid across Front street. All the ten or twelve houses north of Coates' street, on the east side, were built on made ground, and their little yards were supported with wharf logs, and bush willows as trees. The then mouth of Cohocksinc was a wooden drawbridge, then the only communication to Kensington, which crossed at Leib's house opposite to Poplar lane; from thence a raised causeway ran across to Point Pleasant. The stone bridge north of it, leading to Kensington, was not then in existence. On the outside of this causeway the river covered, and spatterdocks grew, and on the inside there was a great extent of marshy ground alternately wet and dry, with the ebbing and flowing of the tide; the creek was embanked on the east side. The marsh was probably two hundred feet wide where the causeway at the stone bridge now runs. The branch of this creek which ran up to the Globe mill, [on the place now used as Craig's cotton manufactory] was formerly deeper than now. Where it crosses Second street, at the stone bridge north of Poplar lane, there was in my time a much lower road, and the river water, in time of freshets, used to overflow the low lots on each side of it. The houses near the causeway, and which were there thirty-six years ago, are now one story buried under ground. The marsh grounds of Cohocksinc used to afford good shooting for woodcock and snipe &c. The road beyond, "being Front street continued", and the bridge thereon, is all made over this marsh within the last twenty-six years; also, the road leading from the stone bridge across Front to Second street -- the hill, to form that road, has been cut down full twenty to twenty-five feet, and was used to fill up the Front street causeway to the York road, &c. The region of country to the north of this place and of Globe mill, over to Fourth street mill dam, was formerly all in grass commons, with scarcely a single house or fence thereon, and was a very great resort for shooting killdeer and snipe. It was said the British had burned up all the former fences, and for many years afterwards no attempt was made to renew them. On these commons bull baiting sometimes occurred, and many military trainings. None of the present ropewalks were then there; but one ran where Poplar lane now lies, from Front to Second street -- that not having been a street till within thirty-five years ago. { Note : ropewalk = a long covered walk or building} The British redoubts remained till lately -- one on the Delaware bank in a line with the stone-bridge street -- then no houses were near it; now it is all built up, and streets are run where none were seen. The next redoubt, west, stood in an open grass lot of Captain Potts, on Second street, and in front of where St. John's Methodist church now stands. [John street was not then run there.] Another redoubt stood on Poplar lane and south-west corner of Sixth street -- another back of Bush Hill house, and another was on Fairmount -- another on the hill south of High street, where the waterworks were located. Barriers of trees and stockades extended from one redoubt to another. All the Cohocksinc marsh is now filled up and built upon, and an immense long wharf and a bridge from it is made to join a street to Kensington. There was a creek or inlet of water, as told to me by the aged John Brown, which went up from the river at the north side of Coates' street and Front street, and thence westward over Second street at midway from Coates' to Brown street (named after this Brown, who is a large owner) up to the south side of Coates' burial ground. Up this creek he has gone in a boat as high as Second street, and gathered wild plums from small trees which overhung the sides of it; this was only done in times of floods. At the burial place were several springs, and all the vaults there have sinks in them to drain off the water. He gave it as his opinion that several springy pieces of ground lay under the present St. John's church there. From Coates' street to two hundred feet up Front street, it used to be formerly overflowed from the river, even after the causeway there was formed. John Brown has seen boys many times ferrying passengers up and down Front street in times of spring-tides. Before the causeway was formed spatterdocks grew there, and the tide flowed in there as high as Budd street. I remember that when the present Butler's row, near the said creek was built, the cellar foundations were begun upon the then surface, and the ground was then filled up around them one story high. Between this low ground and Coates' street was a descending hill, and on that hill, a friend aged 66 years, tells me they used to dig deep pits in his boyhood, in search of pirates' money. The same they did also at Pegg's run from Front to Third street. At the spot of ground east of Oak street, and on the north side of what was called Warder's wharf, then a water dock for vessels, (now firm ground) a young woman of good connexions was driven into the river there at night and stoned and drowned by some miscreants who had abused her person. It occurred about forty-five years ago, and the perpetrators have never since been found out. It was then a very forlorn place at night. There were no wagon-pavements in any part of the Northern Liberties till within the last thirty-five years, and in many streets within twenty years; several of the present streets were not even run, and of course there were no houses built. Thus Fourth, Fifth and Sixth streets from Vine or Pegg's run out to the Germantown road are all opened, and the bridges built thereon, and the low grounds filled up (some places running over deep brick-kiln ponds and gullies, &c.) within the last twenty-two and twenty-six years. The market houses from Coates' street to Poplar lane, were only begun thirty-six years ago, and the northern end was finished within twenty years. The Presbyterian church, at the corner of Coates' and Second streets, and the Episcopal at the corner of St. John street, and the Methodist church at the north end of St. John street, are all within twenty-eight years. The Baptist church, now on Budd street near Noble street, is placed on a street now opened down to Vine street, which was not even run (and when it did, it run down some small houses) twenty-six years ago. Old Fourth street was, indeed, an old road, and was called the Old York Road before the Revolution. Within forty-five years the whole of Third street from Noble lane up to Coates' street, out westward from thence, was all in grass lots, commons, or ponds. At the north-east corner of Green and Old Fourth streets was a great skating pond, and near it, towards Third street, was another. Ponds were also beyond Fourth street. These had been dug out for bricks in former years. The Northern Liberties were incorporated in 1803. Mr. John Brown told me that all the lots on the western side of Second street, from Green to Coates' street, were originally let for lower ground rents than will pay the present taxes, so that they were virtually lost to the primitive owners. Thomas Bradford spoke of his sometimes visiting what was called Coates' woods; they consisted of four or five acres, near about the present Coates' burial ground, at the south-east corner of Brown and Third streets. The most of it was cut down by the late Colonel Coates, for pocket money, when he was young. Another aged gentleman, W. W., informed me that he used to go out to the neighbourhood of Robin Hood, on Poplar lane, to gather chestnuts and hickory nuts, there being there plenty of such trees when he was a youth -- say seventy-five years ago. Mr. John Brown said that in his youth the woods thereabout were so far primitive and wild, as that he and other boys used to go there of nights with a dog to tree rackoons, and then shake them off to let the dog seize them. 1741 Thomas Penn laid out the plot up town, at Callowhill street and Cabal lane, for a market house and town, and endeavoured to have the adjacent lots sold. "Arbuckle's Row", along Callowhill street, and the market houses were made in consequence, but none or them answered. It was then a speculation too far off from Philadelphia. In 1743 the scheme was also first projected of making a Second street over Pegg's marsh -- called then "the Swamp" -- but it did not quickly take. Since my edition of 1830 this North End, far out in the Northern Liberties, Kensington, and in Spring Garden and Penn Township, has been fully built up with excellent new houses -- thus effacing all appearance of former commons. Chapter 83. SOUTH END AND SOCIETY HILL The southern section of the city, although incorporated nine years earlier than the Northern Liberties -- say in 1794 -- did not make such rapid improvements. About the New Market square, the change, as a place of business, has been greatest, occasioned in part by the lengthening of the market house, building it up from Lombard street to Pine street, and by the increase of wealthy population out Pine and other southern streets. Forty-five years ago no dry-goods, hardware, or fancy stores, as now there, were then seen. Thirty-five years ago none of the streets below South street running westward, were laid out beyond Fifth street; and Catharine and Queen streets were only laid out as far as Second street. All beyond was commons or fenced lots. The south-western part of the city was always a wooden town, with a surplus population of the baser sort; and the general level of the ground there was lower than the general level now required for Southwark, especially all that part lying south of Pine street and westward of Sixth street. Numerous houses still there show the streets now raised above their door sills one or two steps. Toward the river side, however, the ground was high, so much so, that along Swanson street from below Almond street, the oldest houses now remaining there show themselves much higher than the present level of the street. From this cause the old house at the south-west corner of Swanson and Almond streets may be seen to have its original cellar, once under ground, now at least ten feet out of ground; and several houses now on western side of Swanson street, below there, may be seen to have a high ascent of steps. Similar notices may be made of houses north of Catharine and Queen streets, which show that their doors, once on the ground floor, are now in their second stories. The same may be seen of houses in Front and Penn streets below South street. At one time a great portion of the south-western end of Southwark belonged to Edward Shippen. In the year 1740, after his death, his estate was advertised as containing "240 acres on the south side of said city". Southwark, especially in the neighbourhood of the present market house, by Pine and South streets, was so new and unsettled as late as the year 1767, that then we see public advertisement is made by Joseph Wharton and others, proposing to bestow lots "for the promotion of religion, learning, and industry", and `sub rosa', to benefit themselves, by making grants of lots for school houses, meeting houses, and market houses; saying also that the market place was already fixed upon, having a length of 1200 feet, and a width of 100 feet. By this fact we learn the measures which were taken to hasten the improvement of the South End, and to convert the former commons of Society Hill into something more productive to the landholders.* [*Mr. Powel, who dwelt there about that time, to encourage the establishment of the market there, used to give out he would buy all the butter which should be left unsold on market days. His ancestor, Samuel Powel, built the row of houses on the north side of Pine street, east of Second street; and although three stories, they brought but 15 Pounds rent, eighty years ago !] Before this time, it had been the locality for field trainings or for field preachings, and before Penn street was formed through the high bluff formerly along the line of that street, the flag staff possessed the ground a little north of South street, to designate the Water Battery which lay at the base of the bank. As late as the year 1750 there was a place called "the Vineyard", and sometimes called "Stanly", [William Stanly was an original purchaser of five thousand acres] which belonged then to Edward Jones, and contained eight and a half acres of meadow, orchard and garden, having its garden front on the south side of South street, not far from Second street, an abundance of cherries and peaches, and a spacious house with a piazza on its eastern and southern sides. Anthony Cuthbert, Esq., now aged, remembers when woods were general in Southwark from Third and Fourth streets to Schuylkill, and when a ropewalk extended from Almond street and Second street westward. Mrs. H. S., now 88, remembers gathering whortleberries at the new market place, and blackberries at the corner of Pine and Fourth streets. "Society Hill", a name once so prevalent for all the region south of Pine street, even down to the Swedes' church, has been discontinued for the last sixty-eight or seventy-eight years. In olden time we used to read of "Cherry Garden on Society Hill", the "Friends' Meeting on Society Hill", the "Theatre (in 1759) on Society Hill", "George Wells' place on Society Hill, near the Swedes' church", &c. The name, we take for granted, was derived from the "Free Society of Traders", who originally owned all the land "from river to river, lying between Spruce and Pine streets". The aged Thomas Bradford, however, suggests that it took its name from the Welsh Society of Landholders, who, he says, once had a residence there in a large long building made by them. As I never met with any other mention of such a Society and building, I can only speak of it as `his' opinion. From Robert Venable, a black man, aged ninety four, I learned the following facts : "The flag staff" on Society Hill stood near the bank, east side of Front street, precisely between Pine and Union streets. Had not heard of a battery near it. Whitfield preached on the ground below Pine street. He said he heard and saw him often; had great crowds; Friends did not like his ways, but some Friends joined him. "They who built the old Academy for him, hoped thereby to keep him here among them always". He could hear Whitfield preaching on Society Hill, by the flag staff, corner of Pine and Front, while he, (Robert) stood in his yard in Walnut street near Front street, not as to sense, but sound. Since my former edition of 1830, the South End has extended southward and westward, with numerous well constructed houses -- the former commons being now no longer open -- nor requiring any particular notice of mine. Chapter 84. WESTERN COMMONS Within the short period of forty years of the memory of the writer, the progress of change and improvement in the western bounds of the city has been very great. If we take a survey of that section of the city lying south of Walnut street and westward of Sixth street, we shall say that it does not exceed thirty-five years since all the houses out Walnut street were built, a still shorter period for those out Spruce street, and still later than either out Pine street. Before the houses were built they were generally open commons, clothed with short grass for cows and swine, &c. When the Roman Catholic church at the corner of Sixth and Spruce streets was built, it was deemed far out of town -- a long and muddy walk, for there were then no streets paved near to it, and no houses were then nigh. From this neighbourhood to the Pennsylvania Hospital, then having its front of access on its eastern gate, was quite beyond civilization. There were not streets enough marked through the waste lots in the western parts of the city to tell a traveller on what square he was travelling. Jamestown weeds and briers then abounded. We shall be within bounds to say, that 35 years ago so few owners enclosed their lots towards Schuylkill, that the street roads of Walnut, Spruce, and Pine streets, &c., could not be traced by the eye beyond Broad street, and even that was then known but upon paper drafts. Roads traversed the commons at the convenience of the traveller; and brick kilns and their ponds were the chief enclosures or settlements that you saw. The whole area, however, was very verdant, and of course agreeable in summer. The ground forming the square from Chestnut street to Walnut street, and from Sixth to Seventh streets, was all a grass meadow under fence, down to the year 1794,* when it was sold out for the benefit of Gilpin and Fisher families. [* Persons of but seventy years of age remember when they were accustomed as boys to gather blackberries there.] On the Chestnut street side it was high, and had steps of ascent cut into the bank, and across it went a footpath as a short cut to the Almshouse out Spruce street; towards the Walnut street side, the ground declined, so as in winter to form a little ice-pond for the skaters near the north-west corner of Sixth and Walnut streets. On page 238 of my MS. Annals in the City Library, is a picture of a military parade as seen there in 1795, and showing that then there was nothing but open field -- the fences being then removed. The only houses to be seen were the low brick building once the Logan Library on Sixth street, in 1793 made an asylum for the orphans; and the Episcopal Academy, built in 1780 on Chestnut street, `vis-a-vis' the Arcade converted afterwards into Oeller's hotel. About the year 1797 or `98, "Rickett's Circus", of brick, was constructed upon the south-west corner of Chestnut and Sixth streets, which burnt down in 1799. As it stood `vis-a-vis' the Chestnut street Theatre, and combined theatrical farces, it excited rivalship. The theatre, to cast the Circus into ridicule, used to exhibit "scrub races" and performances called "Across the Gutter". At the south-east corner of Seventh and Chestnut streets, where Waln's house was afterwards erected, stood an old red-painted frame house, looking strangely to the eye, by being elevated at its ground floor full fifteen feet higher than the common level of the street. By cutting through the street there, the whole cellar stood exposed, and the house was got up to by a coarse flight of steps on the outside of the house. The next square beyond, westward, was Norris' pasture lot, where the boys sometimes made their battle ground -- afterwards made into Morris' square, to ruin him in the erection of an intended palace. On the north-west corner of Chestnut and Seventh streets was a high grass lot in a rail fence extending half-way to Eighth street. Except one or two brick houses at the corner of Eighth street, you met not another house to Schuylkill. There were no houses built out Arch or Race street, save here and there a mean low box or wood beyond Sixth street -- of course no pavements, but wide ranges of grass commons "close cropt by nibbling sheep". None of the present regular and genteel rows in long lines of uniformity, were known there beyond 35 years ago, and those now beyond Tenth street are the fabric of the last twenty years. `Tis but lately that about sixty large houses have been constructed by William Sansom, Esq., and others, at the place called Palmyra square, out Vine street beyond Tenth street. Thirty years ago, or even twenty, to have made such an investment of capital would have been deemed gross folly, but now such is the march of improvement westward, that the houses are all occupied, and the whole is fairly united to what was before the older city. From the west side of Fourth street north of Vine street out to Spring Garden, except a row of two story brick houses called the "Sixteen Row" on the present Crown street, there was not to be seen a single house, nor any line of a street -- it was all green commons, without any fences any where, till you got among the butchers at Spring Garden, where they formed a little village FAR OFF BY THEMSELVES. From the corner of Vine and Sixth streets the commons was traversed to Pegg's run in a north-easterly direction by a deep and wide ravine -- the same route in which a concealed tunnel is now embedded. The run was called Minnow's run, and afforded many of them and cray-fish too. Finally, we shall close this article by some of the observations and musings of Robert Proud, the historian, made by him in the year 1787, as he made his walk over these western ranges, at a period anterior to those scenes and impressions, which I have also attempted to trace. They may afford some interest by their comparison with things now. Withal it comes to us like the visit of an old friend, and leaves us almost the only specimen we have from the historian -- of the picturesque or sensitive, to wit : "In the afternoon of the 18th of 8 mo. 1787, I left the place of my usual residence in Fifth street, about three o'clock in the afternoon; I went up Arch street two or three squares, from which, turning up to Race street, I passed between the brick-kilns and Byrne's, then turning to the right I proceeded directly to Vine street, or the north boundary of the city plan, which led me westward to near the place called Bush Hill, formerly the property of Governor Hamilton, where, opposite to his former mansion house, I went over the fence, and stood and sometimes walked under a grove of trees for about a quarter of an hour." "Here I contemplated a small water-course which ran pleasantly under these trees, near Vine street, south of Hamilton's house, and which, as far as I could here observe, came hither from the north-east through some low meadows, and in appearance might probably originate somewhere about John Pemberton's ground, near Wissahiccon road, westward of Joseph Morris' old villa. From the place where I now was, this stream runs west, southward, to the Schuylkill, being increased in its passage by some springs issuing from the high grounds about Bush Hill and Springetsbury, &c., but wasting nearly in proportion". [We may now (in 1842) make the general remark that all of the western commons is so far built upon and the streets so generally run and paved, as no longer to present any open commons -- well built houses now extend out to the Schuylkill, and from Callowhill to South streets, so as to leave little room for any further remark or observation. The most of this change has been effected on the Schuylkill side in the course of only ten years.] "I thence passed on within the fence, in Hamilton's meadow, to the western boundary of the field, and westward of the house; from thence turning north I kept that course, between Springetsbury and Bush Hill, along the eastern side of the fence, or Hamilton's western boundary, where grew many plants, shrubs, bushes, wild flowers, &c., watered by a small stream, issuing from the springs in the higher grounds, a little above, northward -- here I broke off a sprig of American willow, observing along the water-course a variety of plants and wild flowers, and raising divers wild fowl on passing along, till I ascended the high ground, north-westward from Hamilton's house aforesaid. From thence turning round on the right hand above, or northward of the place where the gardens formerly belonging thereto used to be, I directed my course towards the east, observing, as before, many plants and flowers in bloom." "But what more particularly drew my notice and reflection in this place, was in observing the ground formerly occupied by pleasant large gardens, walks, groves and woods, now all naked and desolate, without a tree, and laid in common, like a barren wilderness or desert, heightened by the sight of the ruins at the place called the Vineyard, near the same -- the woods entirely gone, fences down, the garden places covered with wild shrubs and bushes, and joined to the common ground, a kind of general desolation ! &c., [caused no doubt by the presence of the British army] a few years ago exhibiting a very different appearance to me, when I have visited those then pleasant places, &c., now affording cause of solemn reflection on the transitoriness and uncertainty of human affairs, besides the neglectful management of the present owner, which may properly bear such strictures as at present I forbear to make." "Passing along eastward, through divers fields now laid in commons, fences down &c., I directed my course towards the city, here in full view from one end of it to the other, appearing as it were, under or lower than my feet -- a beautiful prospect; thence going right forward over divers fields, I came to John Pemberton's ground in a lower situation, where I stood awhile to look about and consider where I was; for at first I did not know, though I had often been here many years ago; so great a change had taken place, even in this part of the vicinity of Philadelphia &c. In this ground I noticed a spring of water which I had formerly observed when here; this spring in its course from its fountain forms a pretty large stream running towards the city, to a still lower ground; I followed it till I came to a low place where it divides into two. One stream manifestly appeared to me to run south-westward towards Schuylkill, as before observed, south of Hamilton's house or Bush Hill, and the other, eastward to the Delaware, neither of them appearing to have much fall or descent, except the former, where it approaches near Schuylkill. I followed the latter through divers fields, till I came near the brick-kilns before observed, when this stream, crossing the Wissahiccon road forms what is called Pegg's run, and falls into Delaware river northward of the city plan." "From my observation it appeared to me, that probably by means of these two streams, and other circumstances, which two streams manifestly appear to form at present one water-course between the two rivers, aided by other springs issuing from the high lands about Bush Hill and Springetsbury &c., a very useful canal of water might easily be effected, and that without very much expense, to the great future utility of the city and vicinity in divers respects, all the way or space between the two rivers, at or near the boundary of the city plan, where the ground is lowest." "From this place I came home by David Rittenhouse's new dwelling, north-west corner of Arch and Seventh streets; after this I immediately wrote these notes -- this in the space of an hour and a half nearly, slowly walking, and sometimes standing." FAIRMOUNT -- The glory of Philadelphia is its water works. These unite in themselves, and the adjacent country and river prospect, beauty of scenery, usefulness of purpose, magnitude of design, excellence of effect, nature and art, all harmoniously blended. What delightful scene, more worthy of the painter's art and the poet's pen ! There we see the graceful, glittering river winding amongst its wooded banks, the artificial cascade at your feet, the lovely jet d'eaux all around, the green plats and gravelled walks through which you have walked, the picturesque views wherever you cast your eyes, these go to make up the picture which is spread out in rich luxuriance before you. All this change of Fairmount, by the hand of art, is a fair exchange for the loss of its original rugged, woody and romantic cliffs, then all solitary and silent, now all busy with active life, and useful, by its public utility, sustaining the health and blessing the city inhabitants*. {*These thoughts we borrow from a stranger's description.} [It is a curious fact concerning these works, so uniformly visited and extolled by strangers, that they have never been hitherto the admiration or pride of Philadelphians themselves. It surely proves that they are not puffers. There are at this moment (1842) thousands of our citizens who have never visited them, and many of them have been first induced to visit them from hearing them extolled by people at a distance, when they have been travelling on summer tours.] Chapter 85. SPRINGS "Yet often from the spring the draught is sought, Which here too all doth freely flow unbought." Makin's Poem, 1729 Penn expressed his surprise, when here, at our numerous brooks, and added besides, "there are mineral waters, which operate like "Barnet" and "North Hall", that are not two miles from Philadelphia". Gabriel Thomas too, in his description of 1698, speaks probably of the same springs, saying : "Not two miles from the metropolis are purging waters that pass by siege and urine, all out as good as Epsom". The idea of some good springs about the city was also expressed in the motto above, from Thomas Makin's Latin poem, descriptive of Philadelphia in 1729. At this day, none have any knowledge of any existing springs, and almost as little of any that are past. When Dr. Bond came to Philadelphia to settle as a physician, in 1734, he found such fine chalybeates near the city as to attract his admiration; and it is known that he gave much encouragement to their free use by the sick and infirm. [Note : chalybeates = impregnated with salts of iron; also, having a taste due to iron.] Having never been able to find one person who had any idea of the location of any of the springs so clearly referred to in the above citations, I have felt myself stimulated to find out, if possible, all and every case of springs, at any time formerly known to the ancients. I give the following facts, to wit : "The mineral springs" I presume to have been the same found at "Bath town" in the Northern Liberties, and at a run a little this side of "Lemon Hill" seat, near the Schuylkill. The latter at present excites little or no attention; the former was brought into much celebrity by the influence of John White and wife, who advertise their bath at the town of Bath, saying they will provide refreshments for those who visit it; and they hope, from the virtues of the water, to answer the salutary purposes which the founder (Dr. Kearsley) originally intended. Their house at that day stood on a pleasant farm, called White's farm, having about the house a grove of grateful shade -- itself on a green bank gently declining into the Cohocksinc creek. The house was sometimes called the "Rose of the Bath", because of the sign of a rose attached to the house. The house is a two story brick building, on the lot next north of the Methodist church in St. John street; and the spring, now obliterated, once flowed on the south side of that church, on ground now converted into a tanyard by Pritchet, nearly due east from the Third street stone bridge. The spring, over which Dr. Kearsley had erected a bath house, stood about twenty to twenty-five feet west from the line of St. John street, on the southern side of the tanyard, as I have been told. I mention the location with such particularity, that it may at some day cause a better speculation for some of our citizens, to revive it there by digging or boring, than that of "Jacob's Well" at New York. "The town of Bath", so imposing in name, never existed but on chart. It was a speculation once to make a town there, but it did not take. Under the article "Peggs Run" I have already spoken largely of an extraordinary spring there, the property of Prosper Martin, which is also of purging quality, though not a chalybeate, throwing out sixty thousand gallons of water in a day ! This also was near the line of St. John street. Bathsheba's "Spring and Bower", sometimes called "Bath and Bower", near the junction of Little Dock and Second streets, has been described elsewhere, under the article "Loxley's House". Dock creek in early days abounded with springs, and I have been able to trace as many as three of them on the western side, to wit: At Morris' brewery, now called Abbott's, at the junction of Pear street and Dock street, there is now a spring arched over, which has a vault from it into the great tunnel. The fact was told to me by Timothy Matlack, who had it so covered in his early days, when once concerned in that brewery. They once esteemed their beer as surpassing that of any in the city, from the use of that spring, which they then concealed and kept a secret. It stood twenty feet east from the east end of the brewhouse premises, and fifteen feet back from the street. With such a guide I was afterwards enabled to detect some issues from it in the cellar of Upton's eating house, now on the place. The late aged Owen Jones, Esq., told me he remembered a spring in the cellar of a brewhouse on the western side of Dock street, nearly opposite the present custom house. There was formerly an excellent and much used spring on the west side of Dock street, nearly due west from the Drawbridge. It may now be found under a platform in the area of the cellar door appertaining to the stone house late of Levi Hollingsworth. John Townsend, an aged Friend, who died ten or twelve years ago, told me, when in his 78th year, that he well remembered when the spring was open, and was much visited by boatmen, to take in their water for sea voyages. It had seats around it, and some shade trees about it. Wm. Brown, a public Friend, afterwards built the stone house there, having previously built a framehouse in front of it, which was pulled down, as lying beyond the proper line of the street. The late aged Colonel A.J. Morris, when ninety years of age, told me he well remembered the spring which he presumed gave name to "Spring Garden". He saw it in his youth when there was no village there, but so much in nature's wildness, that he hunted bird's nets, and got stung by some hornets, whose nests he was inspecting. At that time he knew an elderly lady who told him that when she was young she and other company used to go up Pegg's run, then beautifully rural, and lined with shrubbery**, going in a boat up to the spring at its source, and there drinking their tea and making their regale in a place of great rural attraction. As early as the year 1723, I observe "the house and land called Spring Garden, well known to most people, is offered for sale by Dr. Francis Gandolvet". **Some scrubby remains of these I can even remember in my time; and along the race of Craig's factory, and at his dam, the usual water bank shrubbery abounded, such as alder and rose bushes. I think I have found the site of this, and that it must be a chalybeate. It is on the premises, bought in April 1839, by John C. Schuler of Frederic Uber, who bought it of Joseph Harmer in 1799. It lies in the cellar of a brick house, at about 100 feet east from Ninth street, on the north side of Pegg's run, very near to where there is now an entry port into the sewer on the street called Garden street, formerly called Spring street. The brick house which covers the spring, fronts upon said Spring or Garden street, on the western side. Mr. Schuler had promised to procure me a bottle of the water of the spring for analysis, but neglected it, until it has been paved over the whole cellar, and a conduit from the spring has been laid out into the culvert close by. Mr. Schuler and wife told me the water tasted disagreeable, and for that reason was not valued or esteemed. It deposited a yellowish deposit wherever it rested, it showed it soon in a tumbler; on my asking if it did not taste like rusted iron, they said it tasted like copper. They are Germans. They said it was walled round with brick, seemed five or six feet deep and lower than the cellar floor, which was probably only the level of the original ground; that in some seasons it raised and overflowed the cellar upwards of two feet deep. They made efforts to destroy or stop the spring, but could not succeed ! but could never find its point of issue, although they pumped out often to find it. In the year 1773 the citizens were much excited to the admiration of a fine mineral spring accidently discovered on the lot of ground at the north-east corner of Chestnut and Sixth streets, now the premises of P.S. Duponceau, Esq. It was then pronounced, "from many accurate experiments then made, to exceed in strength any chalybeate in the country". While it enjoyed its fame, many were supposed to have been benefited, but in a little while they discovered it owed its character to the remains of a sunken pit. The late aged Joseph Crukshank told me he was shown by the aged Mr. Pearson, formerly City Surveyor, where a creek ran into the Schuylkill, somewhere nigh or between Pine and South streets. It was then dry and partially filled up. But he believes his kinsman, who now occupies a steam engine at the corner of Pine and Schuylkill Seventh streets, derives his well-water from the hidden springs of that creek, as they have a surprising supply even when the wells around have generally failed. The house of Christopher Marshall, in Carter's alley, north side, has had a good spring in its cellar, even from its foundation. And his daughter, Mrs. Haines, told me that the well of the pump on Chestnut street, a little west of Second street, had such a peculiar character many years ago, that Mr. West, at Vine street, who salted up provisions, used to send there for the water used in pickling his meat. There was a powerful spring, now covered with a pump, at the corner of Dock street and Goforth alley, in the rear of the Bank of Pennsylvania. It was discovered about 45 years ago, in digging there a pump-well. All the ground was alluvial to the depth of 28 feet, and no appearance of water; but in striking in the spade below that depth, still in alluvial soil, the water spouted up powerfully, and rose so rapidly to 15 feet, that they could never pump it dry enough to be able to build the well wall. The spring was excellent. Mr. Thomas Dixey, who told me these facts, then had a wooden curb sunk, and settled a brick wall in it. Chapter 86. GARDENS Under this head we shall present slight notices of places conspicuous in their day, as places of observation or resort. The garden belonging to Isaac Norris at Fairhill, was kept up in fine cultivation as early as the year 1718. F. D. Pastorius, who was himself distinguished at Germantown as a "terri cultore", gives the praise of Fairhill garden to the wife, -- saying to her and her sisters, as daughters of Governor Thomas Lloyd, --"I write an article respecting the treating of gardening, flowers and trees, knowing that you are lovers of gardens, -- the one keeping the finest (at Fairhill) I hitherto have seen in the whole country, filled with abundance of rarities, physical and metaphysical, -- the other a pretty little garden much like mine own, producing chiefly cordial, stomachic and culinary herbs." Of his own garden, Pastorius, who was a German, a scholar and a poet, thus speaks at Germantown --- "-------------------------What wonder you then That F.D.P. likewise here many hours spends, And, having no money, on usury lends To's garden and orchard and vineyard such times, Wherein he helps nature and nature his rhymes, Because they produce him both victuals and drink, Both med'cine and nosegays, both paper and ink." His poetry having been written in different colours, he remarks, that of tumerick and elder leaves "He forms his red and green, as here is seen." The taste which governed at the Fairhill place most probably inspired the fine arrangements of the garden grounds of "Norris' garden" in the city, on the site of the present Bank of the United States; there occupying nearly half the square, and when still out of town, alluring strangers and people of taste to visit it. In the olden time, gardens where they sold "balm-beer and cakes" were common as places of resort. Such a one of peculiar celebrity, called the "Cheese-cake-house", once occupied the ground on the west side of Fourth street opposite to the Lutheran church -- having there many apple and cherry trees, arbours and summerhouses, extending from Cherry street to Apple-tree alley -- names probably derived from the place which they now serve to commemorate. The Cake-house was ancient. There was a small "Mead-house" long known up High street, vis-a-vis to Markoe's above Ninth street. It was chiefly remarkable for its enormously large buttonwood trees. "Cherry Garden", down on Society Hill, in the parlance of its day, was a place of much fame as a place of recreation. It was a large garden fronting on Front street vis-a-vis to Shippen street, occupying half the square and extending down to the river. The small house of one story brick, in which the refreshments were sold, is now standing with its dead wall on the line of Front street. In 1756, it was advertised for sale as the property of Harrison, who advertised to sell off some of it in lots "on Front and Water streets to the river in Cherry Garden". Colonel Morris spoke of it as he remembered it in the time of Clifton as its owner -- said it had abundance of every shrubbery and green-house plant. See a picture of the house in my MS Annals in the City Library, p. 282. Clement Plumstead, Esq., Alderman, &c., had a finely cultivated garden, distinguished in its day, at the north-west corner of Front and Union streets. In January 1729, it was thus noticed in the Gazette, viz.: "Some vile miscreants one night this week got into the fine gardens of C.P., and cut down many of the fine trees there". The Spring Garden has been described under the article of its spring for which it was once famed. There was once a range of beautiful sloping gardens, declining from Front street houses into Dock creek, so as to be seen by passengers along the western side of Dock street. They belonged to Stedman, Conyngham, and others. They were seen by T. Matlack and such aged persons. Conyngham's garden, as it existed in 1746, in the ownership of Redman Conyngham, Esq., was peculiarly beautiful, it had stone steps descending into the Dock creek, to which was chained a pleasure boat always ready for excursions and fishing parties. The mansion was the same now No. 96 south Front street. At Turner's country-seat, called "Wilton", down in the neck was some remarkable garden cultivation, inviting strangers visiting the city to inspect it, which has been noticed in connexion with the premises, under the article "Country Seats". Gray's garden at Schuylkill ferry, after the time of the Revolution, then enjoyed the last and greatest fame. It was begun about the year 1790. There was a noted mead house in Chestnut street, east of Sixth street, on the north side. Chapter 87. PONDS AND SKATING PLACES "The playful days of other years like shadows stole." To those who still feel they "love the play-place of their early days", it may afford some interest to see herein revived the recollection of those places, where on "sounding skates" they once made their vigorous and gladdening speed. I speak only of those once within the present thickly inhabited places, to wit : There used to be a deep pond at the north-east corner of Arch and Eighth streets, close by what was once called Dr. Church's family burying ground on Arch street. Another was on the south side of Arch street above Seventh street, called "Everly's pond". In 1842, in excavating a cellar on the north side of Arch street, between Seventh and Eighth streets, the workmen came to two headstones of the afore-mentioned Church family, which have been now built into the foundation wall, "in perpet. vie mem." to wit : John Church died 17th Sep 1740, aged 63; the other, Rhoda Church died in 1720, aged 36. When so found, none could be found to explain the cause of their existence there ! So easily is the knowledge of the past obliterated. Their skulls, with sound teeth, were found. There was "Evan's pond", on the north side of Race street, extending back to Branch street. A small pond lay at the north-west corner of Arch and Fourth streets. A pond, called "Hudson's pond", lay at the north-west corner of High street and Fifth street. Another lay near it, called "Kinsey's pond", on the south side of High street between it and Minor street at the western end, where Washington's house stood. Pegg's run had ponds in the marsh there, always much visited and celebrated, of which mention has been made under the article "Pegg's Run". Colonel A.J. Morris, when 90 years of age, formerly told me of his skating on a deep pond on the west side of Third street above Pine street; and Owen Jones, nearly as old as he, told me of a pond once on the site where Duche's lot on the opposite side of Third street was formed. There he once saw an enraged bull driven in by dogs and pursuers. The fact of former much lower grounds on the western side of Third street is even now evidenced by a house in Union street, still standing fully two feet lower than the present street. The foregoing were generally such ponds as had been previously formed by brick-kilns, or by raising streets higher than some miry lots. They were generally of that period when skated upon by such aged persons as Colonel Morris, Thomas Bradford, Alexander Fullerton. These spoke of them to me. Both Morris and Fullerton spoke to me of the "great Blue-house** pond", at the south-east corner of South and Ninth or Tenth streets. [**The blue-house was an old inn on the opposite south-west corner] It was surrounded by numerous willow trees, the great stumps of which even now remain there, although the former appearance of the pond is almost obliterated. From that pond, they concurred in saying they could skate by a continued line of water down to its outlet at Little Dock creek, by the way of the present St. Peter's church in Pine street -- then the whole range being in commons. This long water communication only showed itself in the winter seasons or in heavy rains. Mr. Thomas White, now but 73 years of age, tells me he used to skate at "Nevill's pond", lying front of the present Presbyterians church in Pine street, and extending to Spruce street up to Fifth street. He also skated on a pond on the north side of Spruce street, up to St. Mary's church, and reaching nearly from Fourth to Fifth street. Those ponds and those days are no more ! The youths who sported on their mirror surface have gone or are going hence. Those who survive may even yet --- "Be moved amidst the shifting scene To smile on childhood's thoughtless joy, And wish they had for ever been A careless, laughing, happy boy !" Chapter 88. FIRES AND FIRE-ENGINES "Red flames and blaze, there all amaze." In 1683, William Penn speaks of a fire in the city, in which the newly arrived Germans were sufferers, and proposes a subscription for their relief. 1711 -- Samuel Preston, the mayor, acquaints the board of council that he has frequently had in his consideration the many providences this city has met with, in that fires, that have so often happened, have done so little damage. He thinks it is our duty to use all possible means to prevent and extinguish fires for the future, by providing of buckets, hooks, engines, &c., which being considered, it is the opinion of the board that such instruments should be provided; the manner of doing it is referred to the next Council. [This was beginning pretty early, considering that fire engines themselves were but a new thing in England itself -- being only invented in 1663.] 1724 -- The Grand Jury recommend the repair of the water engine, and that the city ladders, buckets, &c., be kept in order. 1730 -- A fire broke out in a store near Mr. Fishbourne's wharf, and consumed all the stores there, damaged several houses on that side of the street, and crossing the way seized the fine house of Jonathan Dickinson with two others towards Walnut street, which were all ruined. The loss was 5000 Pounds. The area was for 20 years afterwards called Dickinson's burnt buildings. -- [The site was the same, in modern times, called Ross' buildings, in Front street, south of Walnut street, eastern side.] A subscription was forthwith set on foot "to supply the town" with every thing requisite to put out fires. "It was then thought that if the people had good engines the fire might have been put down." This was the greatest fire experienced. The same year we find by the minutes of Council that fire materials were speedily procured, to wit : Thomas Oldman produced a leather fire bucket as a sample : whereupon they agree to pay him nine shillings a-piece for 100 buckets. The Mayor, soon after, acquainted the Board that the two fire engines and 250 fire buckets sent for to England had arrived in July, and requests a provision of suitable places for their reception. Whereupon it was ordered that the buckets be hung up in the court house, and that measures be used to place the engines, to wit :-- one at the corner of the great meeting house yard (south-west corner of Second and High streets) -- one at Francis Jones' lot, corner of Front and Walnut streets, and the old engine, in a corner of the Baptist meeting yard, in Second street near Arch street. We can perceive by this distribution that there were but three engines in all, (two having just arrived) and shows that the great fire just before, had had but one engine to help to subdue it ! 1735 -- A writer in the Gazette says respecting fires : "We have at present got engines enough, but I question if water enough can be had to keep them going, in many places, for half an hour. It seems to me some public pumps are wanted." At the same time he advises the forming of fire companies. 1736 -- The houses of "Budd's long row" (north of the Draw bridge in Front street) took fire and threatened to consume the whole, but the engines were worked successfully. 1738 -- Benjamin Franklin instituted the first fire company organized in Philadelphia. 1753 -- By an advertisement in the Gazette, I see that "baskets and bags of the fire companies" are called upon to be returned. Thus showing the early use of them, as we used to see them hung up in old halls and entries where now our ladies hang elegant lamps. Number of fires for the following years : 1821 -- 29 1822 -- 22 1823 -- 31 1824 -- 14 Totals - 96 The fires which happened in the latter part of 1822, and beginning of 1823, were generally supposed to be the work of incendiaries. The only fires of consequence which occurred during the year 1824 are two -- March 29th, in Front above Arch street, and April 18th, in Second below Market street. The present manner of subduing fires presents an aspect quite different from former doings in such cases. When there were no hose in use and no hydrants, but only pumps and buckets to keep the engines supplied, the scene was much more busy than now. Few or no idlers could be seen as lookers on. They made long lines of people to "hand along the buckets", and if the curious and idle attempted to pass, the cry was passed along the line -- "fall in, fall in !" If disregarded, a bucket of water was discharged upon them. Then it was quite common to see numerous women in the ranks, and it was therefore more provoking to see others giving no help, but urging their way as near to the fires as they could. Next day was a fine affair for the boys to look out all the buckets they knew of their several neighbourhoods, and to carry them home. The street posts too, all along the streets, far from the fire, could be seen capped here and there with a stray bucket, asking for its owner. Chapter 89. THE FRIENDS "In Stillness thus the little Zion rose." The following constitute such special notices of the Friends as I occasionally met with in the course of my researches. In 1684, Thomas Lloyd in writing a letter to the Friends' Meeting at Dolaran, in North Wales, dated the 2d of 6 mo., says, that there were then 800 people at Friends' Meeting in the city. At that time, says another writer, all denominations assembled with the Friends in much harmony and good fellowship, until discord and confusion was introduced by George Keith's schism. In 1691 a scene of rare confusion was exhibited in Friends Meeting. The facts in the case have been told by Thomas Wilson, a public Friend, who was present. George Keith, who had just separated, sent T. Wilson and his companion, James Dickinson, a challenge to dispute. They readily agreed to meet, and many Friends of both parties assembled. George Keith railed much. He and his abettors requested another meeting, which was also granted. At another time George Keith went into Friends' Meeting while James Dickinson was there, and preached fawningly, as though he and James Dickinson were in unity; but James stood up and confuted him. [Note : confute = to overwhelm in argument; refute conclusively] Then Keith withdrew in much wrath, and the people of other denominations present, being numerous, cried aloud -- "Give way and let the devil come out, for the little man from England (J. D.) has got the day !" The Society for propagating the Gospel in foreign parts, in their account of the services of George Keith as their Missionary, telling of course their opinion, in their own way say; that this Mr. Keith "first joined about the year 1691, with a party of Quakers in opposing some of their errors -- especially in their notion of the sufficiency of the light within every man to salvation, without any thing else", and the other party joined with Mr. Thomas Lloyd the deputy governor, and a great preacher among them; thus severally creating separate meetings in the province. It must have been a singular spectacle to have seen one who had been a plain public Friend, attired in drab and broad brim, cast off his garb, and go abroad among them in his black gown as a church minister. A convincement certainly of strange occurrence. It is but justice to suggest, that at that time, the Friends could not have gone over wholly to the doctrine of plenary illumination, because, that William Penn's writings against Perot, Luff, and others, declare that such took the doctrine of the Holy Spirit speaking in men in a larger sense than was just, so that they ran out into extravagances thereby. In 1702 -- 8th of 9 mo. Isaac Norris' letter says, "George Keith hath been twice here, but has not yet disturbed our Meeting as hath been his custom to the eastward. He is now the talk and news of the town; but has little to boast of in all his progress hitherto. His own party is like to fall with him. All his sermons are railings against the Friends". During the time of this schism there came out a printed pamphlet of 24 pages against orthodox Friends, which might be deemed a curiosity for its rare and gross scurrility. It is without imprint, but shows from its context that it was done at Philadelphia about the year 1701. Ample evidence of the whole have been preserved in my MS. Annals in the City Library, on pages 190 to 193. There indeed they deserve to be buried, were it not that their style of abuse is so unique as to show a characteristic of some minds of that day, which we could not conceive of in modern times; besides they contain some local references which may possibly serve on some needful occasion to illustrate some local incidents. The whole has the appearance of being set forth as the venom of Keith's adherents. It assails the characters, by name, of every leading man in Friends' Society, making them severally immoral men (though sly) of the grossest kind. It is called "the Cage of unclean Birds" -- because George Fox had so called false professors. I have purposely suppressed all the names, and refer to the whole now rather as a matter of amusement than of scandal. The Friends, then vilified, must have been endowed with much moderation, to have endured such a publication, or else the doctrine of libels was ill understood and without practice among them. Some of the facts are ludicrous enough. One, a minister too, is accused by name of packing his flour barrels with only good flour at the ends ! and also of blowing in money scales to make his light money pass off as weight ! It reproaches them of vain-glory in building "a great Cathedral Meeting Place at Philadelphia" -- corner of Second and High streets. The Friends, who generally held a majority in the civil rule of Pennsylvania and New Jersey, found themselves more and more embarrassed as mixed population increased. They had difficulties in serving in judicial offices where oaths were required, and also in providing public defence against enemies. The feuds and animosities raised against Friends in the Assembly were very high, and went on increasing from 1701 to 1710. War with France occurred in the interval. A French privateer plundered Lewestown, -- and several of them plundered and burnt vessels in the bay. In 1709, the city of Philadelphia was got into high commotion for a defence. "The hot church party" were all in favour of it. The people petitioned the Queen for defence, and objected at the same time to the passive principles of the Friends, as unfit for civil rule, &c. When I have seen so much correspondence as I have, in that day, on that subject, and have witnessed how perplexed the Friends were with their unruly charge -- made up of many nations and many minds -- I have thought them (to use a homely domestic figure) not unlike the perplexed hen with her duck-chickens, which perpetually countered her nature by taking to the water, and leaving her in embarrassment and distress ! If they governed for a while, retaining therein their religious views, it was still a daily work of shifts and expedients to keep the approbation of other sects. It was, as Doctor Johnson says "like a dog who walks upon his hinder legs -- he does not walk well, but we are surprised he walks at all !" James Logan, in speaking of these facts, in 1709 says, "The clamours and abuses from such men to the Friends in government tires them and makes them weary of the load. When the queen asks for our quota for Canada, Friends know not how to act or how to refuse, seeing that all the other colonies contribute more than is required". Isaac Norris, in 1709-10, speaking of these facts, says, "Those of the church grew very uneasy and unneighbourly in their expressions, because of the defenceless situation of the place. They are for a coercive law, that all may be obliged to bear arms, or else they will do nothing. They manage this craftily, in order to lay Friends aside in government, -- the holding of a place in which is extremely difficult to Friends, and we can hardly judge which has the worst prospect -- whether to hold it under such difficulties as daily fall in the way, or to resign it to some men who are of no honourable principles. Embarrassed and discordant as we are, I often think of the frogs' petition to Jupiter, and fear it must be a governor immediately from the crown that must set us to rights. We are a mixed people, who all claim a right to use their own way. Some Friends still in places and offices that cannot be exercised without great difficulties and sometimes full stops -- so that a very great hardship falls upon the Assembly. To me it seems impracticable to do any thing that will please and hold !" In another place, to James Logan, he says, "We say our principles are not destructive or repugnant to civil government, and will admit of free liberty of conscience to all, yet to me it appears, (although I get into a labyrinth when I turn my thoughts that way) to be concerned in government and hold them, we must either be independent and entirely by ourselves, or, if mixed, partial to our own opinion, and not allow to others what we desire from them !" To illustrate some of the difficulties, supposed to exist in civil matters because of the religious objections of Friends to oaths, I give the following facts -- to wit : In 1703, William Penn writes, that "the lords of trade spake to me of the insufficiency of the government of Pennsylvania -- saying, the first of the council was not able to register ships, administer an oath, or perform some other requisites; but I told them this could not hinder government, while three or four of the council were churchmen, and of age and experience -- and no matter who of the council transacted them, so that they were qualified to do it; -- and yet, by our constitution, our Friends were so : -- besides, I told them it was not to be thought that a colony and constitution, made by and for Quakers, would leave themselves and their lives and fortunes, out of so essential a part of government as juries -- nay, more, that we would not have gone thither to be so precarious in our security as to be deemed incapable of being jurymen -- if so, that the coming of others shall overrule us who are the originals and made it a country". On one occasion, stated by James Logan, the grand jury being summoned of such as could swear, it was found the number present were insufficient. "On the sheriff's calling for more out of the tales, one and another, being offered the oath, declined it, some for one reason, and some for another. The design evidently was by those factious persons who contend for nothing more than our confusion. They would herein prevent all things that might take away occasion of complaint against us, and they hoped the delay of justice might prove a great one !" On another occasion it happened that only three of the five judges being present, and those only who could swear, "they administered an affirmation according to law, which gave cause of many discourses among the discontented. But through these men's restless endeavours, it is found extremely difficult fully to discharge the duties of government incumbent on us -- they taking all advantages of throwing in our way whatever may perplex us, by reasons of oaths, and such other things as are inconsistent with the principles of most of us -- besides, that many things occur in the administration according to the law of England, as well as immunities by our own law, which cannot well be executed by men of our profession. Such objections against us, being what they daily court, when, by their endeavours, they by any means bring them to bear, they greedily lay hold of them". William Penn in reply to these and similar statements, makes a remark in 1704, saying "I am grieved to think that you ever gave way to any other affirmation than that appointed by law in the province, by which you have given away a most tender point, not easily recoverable. My regard to the queen is known almost to partiality; but I shall never obey her letters against laws, into which she may be drawn by interested persons". James Logan was never averse to measures for protection -- i.e. for defensive war; and there is reason to infer that Penn himself and some other Friends were of the same opinion. The idea gained ground as the colony increased, and therefore members were often found in the assemblies of the Friends' Society, who in the opinion of "the most straitest" of the sect, were too lax in their discipline of "testimony" &c. We find, therefore, that such a public Friend as John Churchman deems himself called to express his disapprobation of their public callings generally, as too exposing in its general tendency, for tender minds -- and about the same time, the year 1758 we see a warning voice from "The Watchman", by a Friend in the Pennsylvania Journal, wherein he says "From the moment we Friends began to lose sight of our original institution, we erred greatly; for when we saw so much corruption interwoven in the affairs of this world, we were unfit to be concerned in them, and should have rested satisfied on a dependence on the son of the Lord, and what protection the laws of our country would have given us. But we must needs have that power in our own hands; and having so exceeded their native moderation and self-command, they knew no bounds -- they grasped at more, by which means the life of our old and respected friend and governor, William Penn, was made a life of trouble. Let us return to our original plan, and leave the concerns of this world entirely to the men of this world !" I have seen the first record of marriages among Friends in Philadelphia for the first 32 years of the city. The first named is in 1682, of Thomas Smith with Priscilla Allen. These had before passed one Meeting in the Isle of Wight. The next marriage is that of David Brientnall with Jane Blanchard in 1683. In 1684, eleven couples are married there. My own name -- of Watson, is of very frequent occurrence among them. One singular name is, I presume, intended to commemorate a providence of God to the parents in their voyage, to wit : -- Sea-mercy Adams, married to Mary Brett in 1686. I have in my possession the original parchment certificate of one of those early marriages. It is chiefly curious as showing several signatures of the primitive leading Friends, and the verbal form of the instrument too, is somewhat different from the present. In early days the bride, among Friends wore a black silk hood over the head, with long ends hanging down the front of the shoulder. It was neat and graceful. By this token she was universally known in the street as one "adorned as a bride". She always went on foot publicly to meeting in a kind of procession of eight or ten couples. She was preceded by the father and mother of the groom, then by her own parents -- next "the happy pair" -- then their special friends. The wedding entertainments in olden times were very expensive and harassing to the wedded. The house of the parent would be filled with company to dine. The same company would stay to tea and supper both. For two days punch was dealt out in profusion. The gentlemen visited the groom on the first floor, and then ascended to the second floor to see the bride in the presence of her maids, &c. Then every gentleman, even to 150 in a day, severally took his kiss -- even the plain Friends submitted to these doings. I have heard of rich families among them which had 120 persons to dine -- the same who had signed their certificate of marriage at the monthly meeting -- these also partook of tea and supper. As they formerly passed the meeting twice, the same entertainment was also repeated. Two days the male friends would call and take punch, and all would kiss the bride. Besides this, the married pair for two entire weeks saw large tea parties at their home; having in attendance every night the groomsmen and bridemaids. To avoid expense and trouble, Friends have since made it sufficient to pass but one meeting. When these marriage entertainments were made, it was expected also, that punch, cakes, and meats should be sent out generally in the neighbourhood, even to those who were not visiters in the family. Some of the aged now alive can remember such weddings. An advertisement of the year 1778, to be copied here, may serve to show the kind and costliness of female attire then among female Friends of the wealthy class. It is in the form of a call for family apparel stolen from the house of Mrs. Sarah Fisher, "in Second street below the Bridge", and offering ten guineas reward for the white satin petticoat quilted with flowers; one rich pearl coloured satin gown, lined with cream coloured Persian; also several yards of the same pearl coloured satin; one white mantua gown; one blossom coloured satin cloak lined with white mantua; a baby's cloak of purple and yellow changeable mantua lined with white mantua; a number of aprons and handkerchiefs of cambric muslin, lawn and holland, all marked with S. L.; several frocks, &c., belonging to a child. Also, a gold watch with a steel chain and crystal seal set in gold with engraved arms. The above Mrs. Fisher had been Sarah Logan, the daughter of William Logan, and she was a much respected member of the meeting. When the walking on the side-walks in Philadelphia streets was impeded with heavy snows, as in days of yore, the Friends were notable for their early care to provide good paths to Meeting. When Richard Hill (a distinguished man) married Miss Stanley in 1727, they swept the snow from the corner of Norris' alley and Front street where he lived, up to the Meeting-house at the corner of Second and High streets -- thus making a snow-path of three squares in length. An old doggerel used to say, --- "The rain rains, and the winds blow : High heads -- what a panic seize `em ! Old Friends -- to meetings go, Sweeping their way with a besom." [Note : besom = a broom made of twigs] Another expressed the fact in these words to wit : "The Quakers will to Meetings go, And if their streets be full of snow, They sweep it with their besom." When the Hectors and Hotspurs of the day were fierce for war measures on the Indians, finding they could not get the sanction of the Friends to their intended embroiling measures, they fell upon expedients, such as satires and caricatures could enforce. Thus an ancient pamphlet, printed at Ephrata, [Supposed by Parson Barton, of Lancaster] contains a tirade called the "Cloven Foot Discovered", some of which reads thus, viz.: "Pray, worthy friends, observe the text; Get money first, and virtue next. Naught makes our Carolina curs To bark and bite, but skins and furs." In another place it reads thus : "In many things, change but the name, Quakers and Indians are the same, I don't say all, for there are such, That honest are -- e'en of the Dutch; But those who the Indians' cause maintain Would take the part of bloody Cain, And sell their very souls for gain ! " &c. When, in the year 1756, the governor had proclaimed a day of fasting and prayer on account of the calamity of the Indian war, the Friends did not join in it as a ceremony. Some squibs appeared against them; one reads thus, to wit : "Perseverance is a breach in the spirit : Quakers (that like to lanterns bear Their light within them) will not swear. Like mules -- who, if they've not their will To keep their own pace, stand stock still !" The passions and the writer who gave point and effect to such trifles in their day are all dead. I presume I need scarcely add, I give no revival to any of them but in sheer good nature, treating them rather as the comic of history, than as of any power to revive harm in our day ! The state of the Friends as a part of the civil community, down to the year 1739, has been thus noticed in a MS. account by William Fishbourne of that Society, saying, "As the chief part of the inhabitants were Quakers, they with others were and are concerned in acts of government; but as the province increased and prospered in every respect, many of other persuasions came and settled here with worldly views, who have formerly attempted to wrest the civil power out of the Quakers hands, as it is very probable they may and will again; as they publicly begin to think and observe the country in its increased wealth and commerce "cannot be safe" under the conduct of men who from their principles (of religion) would continue it in a defenceless state and leave it an easy prey to any enemy. Thus not regarding (the fact) the peaceable introduction, and continuing from the first settlement both in time of peace and war". In the year 1748 there were great efforts made in Philadelphia for the defence of the city, by erecting and furnishing two batteries at the Southwark end, and raising about 1000 volunteers. On this occasion some of the Friends, then in public employ, admitted the right of defensive measures, among whom were James Logan, whose letters to Benjamin Franklin on the occasion I have seen. Kalm, the Swedish traveller, who was then here, remarks, "When the re-doubt was erected at Swedes' church to prevent the French and Spanish privateers from landing, there was much opposition and debate, for the Quakers opposed the measure. Papers were printed and circulated pro and con; but when the danger became imminent at the close of the war, many of the Quakers withdrew their opposition and helped the measure with their money". This is probably an overdrawn picture -- giving the act of a few under the name of "many". In the same year, Governor Thomas having required of the Assembly measures for protection and defence, made some excitement there among the Friends, then members. On this occasion John Churchman, a public friend, deemed himself called to visit that body and to set forth his testimony against war measures. It perhaps shows the kind feelings of that day, and the influence which Friends then enjoyed in the House, to say that on making his wish known to speak, through the Speaker, he was allowed to go in and deliver his religious counsel. The sum of what he then said at considerable length is preserved in his Journal. "Beware (said he) of acting to oppress tender consciences, for many whom you now represent would be greatly grieved to see warlike preparations carried on by a law, consented to by their brethern in profession, contrary to the charter, for it is concluded that a reverent and true fear of God, the ancient arm of power, would be our greatest defence and safety". A writer, of the year 1755, (Samuel Wharton's MS.) writing on the political influence of the Friends, and wishing to see them excluded, tells the opinion of his day, as held by him and his party, saying, "But if it be asked by what means the Quakers, whose measures (against war) are so unpopular, get continually chosen into our Assemblies, I answer -- they enter into cabals in their yearly meeting, which is convened just before election, and being composed of deputies from all the monthly meetings, provides a fit place for conducting political intrigues under the mask of religion". I presume few of the present day will credit this scandal; but, as the feature of that day, it may now amuse a modern Friend thus to see such a novel use of their religious meetings ! They are also accused of procuring great influence in the elections among the Germans, through the aid of C. Sower's German paper, which always advocated Friends' principles. Sower himself was a very good man, and therefore had a deserved influence over his countrymen. In 1759, four Friends, then members of Assembly, vacated their seats at the desire of the Council of the Crown, because it was a time of war. I have seen in the possession of Mr. Henry Pemberton of Philadelphia, among other letters of William Penn of about the year 1677, one of them, having a postscript to which is the signature of the celebrated George Fox. He used, like Penn and other writers of that day, two small effs, in lieu of one capital, as thus -- "G-ff". Another autograph of Fox and of Barclay I have seen with R. Haines. The Friends were long accustomed to hold night meetings on the Sabbath; their house on the Bank Hill, in Front near Arch street, was at first called Evening Meeting, because chiefly made for such a convenience when that at the Centre square was too far off. They continued the evening meetings till after the Revolution, when they were constrained, by their sense of "not letting their good being evil spoken of ", to disuse them, because their young women (as at some other meetings almost ever since) were mobbed by rude young men, who assembled in long lines of idlers, generating and cherishing more evil without the walls, than the good people could counterbalance within. The change met the approbation of the discreet -- of those who virtually aim by every means "to suppress vice and immorality". My friend, Lang Syne, who has good feelings for those kind of reminiscences, has left some picturesque traces of some of the old preaching Friends, and of some of their school teachers, calculated to revive pleasing images of the past to those who love the associations of their early days. He thus speaks of his recollections of the preachers, saying, "James Pemberton, Nicholas Waln, Daniel Offley, Arthur Howell, William Savery and Thomas Scattergood were the then "burning and shining lights". From the preacher's gallery, as beheld through the "mist of years", James Pemberton sat at the head of the gallery -- an immovable figure, very erect, and resting with both hands crossed on the top of his cane. Nicholas Waln appeared at all times with a smile of sunshine upon his countenance. An imperturbable severity rested on the dark features of Thomas Scattergood. Arthur Howell always sat shrouded beneath his hat drawn down over his face, and the upper part of his outside coat elevated to meet it -- like unto a prophet "in his mantle wrapt", and isolated in thought from all sublunary things. William Savery possessed a mild solemnity of voice and feature, which distinguished him as a preacher above other men; his softer and solemn tones and words in preaching, like those which may be imagined of the Eolian harp rudely touched by the wind, sunk through the ears down into the heart, as "the dew of heaven" falling gently to the earth. The voice of Daniel Offley was as a sound produced by the falling of a bar of his own iron on the brick pavement before his furnace door. Among his dozen hammermen he was always accustomed to raise his piercing voice distinctly above their pattering sounds. Of the teachers, more will be said in another place under the article "Education". Friends' academy then consisted of four different masters : -- Robert Proud, Latin master; William Waring, teacher of astronomy and mathematics; Jeremiah Paul; "The Master of Scholars" was John Todd. As a curiosity, now that the scandal has lost its sting, I present here some extracts from an old publication of London imprint of 1703 -- 36 pages 12mo. It is entitled "News from Pennsylvania respecting the government of the Quakers". It bears the style of an embittered "churchman" writing to London from Philadelphia; -- one of whom Penn and Logan called "the hot church party". I give some extracts. Whoever he may have been, he seems to have been a theologian in reading and quotations. Of the Quakers, he says -- "Quakerism and heresie here go hand in hand. It is a grim and deformed mass of hypocrisie, atheism, paganism, &c. In their meetings "William" leads the van like a mighty champion of war. After him follow the mighty Dons according to their several movings, and then for the chorus, the Feminine prophets tune their quail pipes, and having ended as they began, -- with hawlings and yawlings, gripings and graspings, hic labor hoc opus ! -- they spend the remaining part of the day in feasting each other".. Some personalities are thus brought out : "R----- E----, a great holder forth, was found too free with a quaking woman, the wife of R--- W----, seen by one Whitpin (Whitpaine ?), One Moore too, of the ministry, had raised up seed unto the Lord by his servant maid. One A---- M---- packed tobacco cut and dried into flour barrels to cheat the customs, and it is supposed he has got his estate by this means". He is also slurred as having been once a tradesman. E--- S--- is called a great man and a great usurer. In September 1777, the Friends of Philadelphia, as Howe's army was approaching, were regarded by some of the strong Whigs of the day with distrust, because they could not fall into their common measures of defence, &c. Their "Testimonies", so called, were deemed exceptionable by some. The result was that seventeen of the society were exiled for a time to Virginia. The Testimony of December `76, was found fault with, and the Testimony of 24 of 1mon. 1775, given in the Pennsylvania Evening Post, No. 402, contains words of this kind. "We have by repeated public advices and private admonitions, used our endeavours to dissuade the members of our religious society from joining with the public resolutions prompted and entered into by some people, which as we apprehended, so we now find, have increased contention, and produced great disorder and confusion". It says also, "From our past experience of the clemency of the King, we believe that decent and respectable addresses would avail towards obtaining relief and restoring the public tranquillity ! -- and we deeply deplore that contrary modes of proceeding have involved the colonies in confusion". Signed by James Pemberton, clerk, in behalf of the meeting held at Philadelphia. The Evening Post of 4th November 1778, reports that John Roberts, miller, and Abraham Carlisle, a citizen, both of the society of Friends, were executed for treason on the public commons, where both behaved with great resolution. This was a measure, as I have understood since from many judicious persons not of that persuasion, that ought not to have been done. The ultra Whigs were much excited on the occasion, and had often been bearded by men of tory feelings that they `dared not' to take such an attitude of self-protection as they regarded such an example to be. [Note : bearded = to confront and oppose with boldness, resolution, and often effrontery : Defy] It was the general opinion to the last that they would be reprieved. Mr. Carlisle, I have been assured, was a very respectable and inoffensive man. He had been urged by the British, while in Philadelphia, to serve as an umpire at the Pass Gate up Front street, so as to say what American persons should pass or repass under their licenses or protections : this to guard against abuse. For his judgment and action in these matters, in which he acted without reward or known benefit, he forfeited his life. Of Roberts I have heard less; his enemies said he poisoned his flour. Great exertions by numerous subscriptions and personal influences were made to save them. Parson Peters and Anthony Benezet were personal friends, and good Anthony, knowing the prejudice of the reverend gentleman against Friends' principles or profession, got him to read Barclay's Apology which he lent him. After its perusal he sent is approbation in some poetic lines, of which I here give about half, in extract, latter part, viz. : Long had I censured, with contemptuous rage, And cursed your tenets, with the foolish age; Thought nothing could appear in your defence Till Barclay shone with all the rays of sense. His works at least shall make me moderate prove, And those who practise what he teaches, love. With the censurious world no more I'll sin, In scouting those who own the light within; If they can see with Barclay's piercing eyes The world may deem them fools, but I shall think them wise. Miss Gould has endeavoured to illustrate the character of Penn and Pennsylvania, and the society of Friends, in poetic measure, after this manner, "I'll seek", said the Quaker, "a happier shore, Where I and my people may kneel before The shrine we erect to the God we adore, And none shall our rights molest." And sick of the sounding of empty things, Of beggarly strife in the island of kings, His dove-like spirit unfurled her wings, For a bold and a venturous sweep. She wafted him off, o'er billow and spray, Twixt the sea and the sky, on a pathless way To a beautiful sylvan scene, that lay Far over the boiling deep. Then the tomahawk dropped from the red man's hand When he saw the Quakers advance, and stand Presenting his purse, but to share the land He had come to possess with him. "Thou'lt find," said the Quaker, "in me, and in mine But friends and brothers to thee and to thine, Who abuse no power, and admit no line Twixt the red men and the white." And bright was the spot where the Quaker came, To leave it his hat,** his drab and his name, That will sweetly sound from the trump of fame Till its final blast shall die. The city he reared from the sylvan shade, His beautiful monument now is made ! And long have the rivers their pride displayed In the scenes that are rolling by. ** In allusion to Penn's "bland and noble face far under the hat's broad brim". The dress of Friends, at first, was not intended to differ greatly from the common mode of the time, save that it was to exclude all show, and to appear simple and neat; I mean that they have since seemed more peculiar in their dress from the fact that fashion changed from what was their starting point, and to which they have adhered with more steadiness and sobriety than others. When they started as a sect, broad-brimmed felt hats with loops at the side were common. So of their coat and the straight collars. The drab was the prevalent colour, because least removed from the uncoloured state of cloth or 'drap'. They excluded the use of metal buttons, because of their former extreme tinsel finery, and they wore cloth-covered or stained horn ones. They used ties to shoes, when buckles were worn with much display. At present Friends are much departing from their uniformity of drab, and resort to many shades of brown, olive, &c., and only avoiding black, which with some of the younger people is now used in effect under the name of invisible green. A Friends' meeting at present shows very little of former "plain garb", as seen in such meetings in very early days, or along the streets. The females keep nearest to former dress. The Friends, as we have been informed, were much perplexed, at the time of the Revolution, to settle the course which they should pursue in those unsettled and troublous times. They held extra and protracted meetings, even till after night, to determine measures; -- and finally, when they came out with their published advice, called a "Testimony" it gave offence to sundry persons not of their society, and also to some among themselves. Some went off and made a separate meeting -- building themselves a brick meeting-house at the south-west corner of Fifth and Arch streets; others were found so far seceding, as to form a military company under Captain Humphries, and taking the distinctive name of "the Quaker' company". The city common at that time was daily filled with train bands of many kinds, exercising, and preparing themselves for a tug of war. During this exciting period, Mary Harris, a Friend from Wilmington, visited the then three meetings in the city, in the time of the Congress in May 1775, and walking through each of the preachers' galleries, in much seeming distress of mind, she exclaimed, "See now to your standing, for thus is the Lord about to search and examine his camp". About the same time another Friend, of the name of Robert Walker, publicly declared that their counsels were double minded, and that the end would show it. As if to add to the stir of the day, one of the Friends -- whose name I purposely omit -- acting with more zeal than discretion, delivered to a ship master, going to England, and then at anchor down the river, sundry letters to correspondents abroad, much censuring therein men and measures, &c. Of these letters, the Committee of Associators got wind, went down to the vessel by night -- brought off the letters, and made an expose and blow-up, much to the annoyance of sundry individuals. I give the facts without comment and "without partiality", as things picturing the incidents of an eventful period. Their descendants have some right, I suppose, to know, even by a little, that their forefathers were once so straightened, in a very narrow pass. Next : PERSONS AND CHARACTERS