Ramsey Co., ND - Description and History, 1884

	This file is a complete transcription of the descriptive information about 
	Ramsey County as found in A. T. Andreas' "Historical Atlas of Dakota", 1884.


		         RAMSEY COUNTY, ND

This prominent county lies in the northeast part of the Territory,
within the water shed of the Red River of the North, and is bounded as
follows: north by Cavileer and Towner counties; south by Foster County;
east by Nelson and Walsh counties, and west by Benson County. It
contains about the equivalent of 27 1/2 congressional townships, 990
square miles or 633,600 acres. From this amount must be deducted about
100 square miles or 64,000 acres, for the area covered by water, of
which the portion of Devils Lake in this county includes about seventy
nine square miles or 50,600 acres; the Sweet water Lakes, thirteen
squares miles or 8,320 acres, and Dry Lake ( as its name implies,
sometimes dry), and land surface equal to 890 square miles or 569,600
acres. About one tenth of the surface of the county is water. With the
exception of the Sweet Water Lakes, this water is salt or brackish.

Minnewakan, or Devils Lake, has a length in a right line east-southeast
and west-northwest, of thirty-two miles, but measured along the
center of its channel it streches out to a length of about forty-five
miles. The water of this lake resembles that of the ocean, holding in
solution chloride of sodium, magnesium, sulphate and carbonate of soda
and lime, The lake abounds in splendid fish of the pike family, known as
pickerel weighing from a few pounds to thirty pounds each. Bathing
in this lake is highly recommended for nervous and rheumatic diseases.

The water, which is exceedingly clear, varies greatly in depth, the
deepest places reaching 100 feet or more. A broad and beautiful sandy
beach extends along the margin in many localities, and in places a
person can wade to a distance of fifty yards from shore without getting
beyond depth. The lake varies in width from 300 yards to six miles, the
widest point being nearly opposite Tort Totten. It is wonderfully
diversified in its outline, and abounds in picturesque bays, narrow
straits and broad reachs of deep blue water, on which the storm king
often raises white capped surges worthy of Lake Michigan. Its principal
subdivisions are West Bay, Tellers Bay, Creel's Bay, Lamoreaux Bay,
Devil's Heart or Donahue's Bay, Mission Bay, Fort totten Bay, Hill's
Bay, and Mauvais Bay. The distance around the shore of this lake,
measuring its sinuosities, is about 130 miles. The north shore of the
lake  is comparatively level, or gently undulating, but on the southern
side it is rough, broken and hilly in many portions. The highest
elevations are the Devil's Heart near the southwest extremity of
Donahue's Bay, and Sully' Hill across the bay, northeast from Fort
Totten.

The high point known as Devil's Heart is situated near the southwest
extremity of Donahue's Bay, about eight miles east, southeast from Fort
Totten, and is the highest elevation in the vicinity of the lake. It
rises, solitary and alone, in the midst of the prairie to the height of
several hundred feet aboove the common level, and is visible for many
miles in all directions, The views from its breezy top is extensive and
interesting , covering the whole Devils Lake country, and very probably
the outlines of the Turtle Mountains. There are considerable hills
around the west end of the lake, but between these and Fort Totten it is
comparatively level. In places the banks are abrupt and filled with
boulders of the drift period, and these are frequently found in other
localities. This lake, and others contiguous, are probably the result of
glacial action, or of diluvial action in the Champlain epoch.

The islands and peninsulas in and around this curious body of water
abound in excellent timber, much of which has been reserved by the
United States authorities for use at Fort Totten. The heaviest bodies
are on  Rock Island, 3,000 acres, and Graham's Island, 3,000 on the
north shore. Narrow fringes of timber skirt the lake in many localities.
Correctly speaking, both Graham's and Rock Island are peninsulas, though
they were once surrounded by water.

The lake has no visible outlet, though there may be under-ground
connection with the Sheyenne River on the south. The only stream worthy
of mention tributary to it is the Grand Coulee, which comes down from
the northwest, and in rainy seasons discharges a large amount of water.
The lake has been diminishing for years, for the reason that the amount
of evaporation exceeds the annual rain-fall. It is probable, however,
that the settlement of the country will have the effect to increase the
precipitation, and keep the level of the lake up to its present
standard, or even increase its volume. The lake has receded some six feet
in the last ten or twelve years.

The elevation of this lake above mean tide, as determined by careful
observations, is stated to be 1,423 feet, and 814 feet above the level of
Lake Superior. Sully's Hill has an elevation of 275 feet above the lake.

This region abounds in wild game, and especially wild fowl, including
pelicans, geese, brant, sand-hill cranes, prairie and wood grouse, white
breasted grouse, many varieties of ducks, including the celebrated
canvas-back, mallard, red-head, blue-bill, spoon-bill, blue and green
winged teal, and the shelldrake. The curlew, golden plover,
yellow-legged plover, prairie plover, sand-piper and many others abound
in their season.

Large game is rapidly disappearing, but elk deer and antelope are still
met with.

GRAND COULEE This is a long valley, extending from the west end of
Devils Lake to the British line on the east side of the Turtle
Mountains, a distance of about sixty miles. About twenty miles of this
valley are in Ramsey County, the remainder in Towner County. The
water-shed of this coulee is from ten to forty miles in width, and the
entire region is very fertile. The stream in the center of this valley
takes its rise near Cartright, on the Turtle Mountain trail, about five
miles north from the International boundary. In the rainy season a large
amount of water discharges into Devil's Lake, through this coulee, but
in the dry season it dimishes to a small creek.

Lying in Towns 154 and 155 north, Ranges 63 and 64 west, is a large body
of water known as Sweet Water Lake, or lakes covering over 8,000 acres.
The water in this lake differs from all the water in the region in being
perfectly pure and sweet, and as it is elevated about eighty feet above
the city of Devil's Lake, and only five miles distant, the city can be
easily supplied with excellent water at a nominal expense. A pipe line
will be laid to the lake, and the pressure will carry water into the
tops of the highest buildings. The lake is said to be very deep and
clear. A considerable stream, made up from perennial springs flows into
it from the northeast, and it has a probable outlet in seasons of
surplus water through Dry Lake and the Grand Coulee.

There are many smaller lakes in the southern part of the county, mostly
lying within a few miles of Devil's Lake. There are no streams of any
importance flowing into the Sheyenne River which passes through the
southwest corner of the county in the Indian Reservation.

The Cut Head Sioux Indian Reservation includes about the equivalent of
six congressional townships in the south part of this county, and
extends into Benson County on the west, and Foster County on the south.
It includes within its borders the Fort Totten Military Reservation.

The first occupation ot this region by the military forces of the United
States dates from July, 1865, when General Sully arrived from Sioux
City, Iowa with a force consisting of one battalion of the Thirtieth
Wisconsin Volunteer Infantry, the Sixth and Seventh Iowa cavalry, the
First Regiment of Dakota Cavalry, part of two regiments of Negraska
troops, one battalion Illinois troops, one battalion Eight Minnesota
Infantry, and one battery of four guns under Captain Pope.

General Sully had left Sioux City in May, 1863, and moved up the
Missouri river as far as old Fort Sully in Hughes County, and from thence
attempted to reach Devil's Lake overland, but the season was a very dry
one, and he was compelled to return to Fort Sully. He succeeded in
getting through in 1865, after a severe fight with the Indians a few
miles northwest of where Jamestown now stands.

On his arrival at Devil's Lake Gen. Sully formed a camp on the slopes of
Sully's Hill. At this time the Sioux chief Sitting Bull had full sway in
this region.

Gen. Sully remained here during three seasons, but erected no permanent
works or buildings. In 1867 Gen. Terry, who had been appointed commander
of the Dakota department, arrived and commenced the erection of
goverment buildings. These were at first constructed of wood, but have
since been replaced with more substantial ones of brick manufactured on
the ground. The post is considered one of the very best in its
construction in the northwest, and presents a splendid appearance.

The military reservation, covering about 150 square miles including wood
reserves on Graham's and Rock Island, was laid out in the same year. The
Cut Head Sioux Indian Reservation covering about 400 square miles was
laid out in 1868. The old military reservation has since been reduced to
about twenty square miles. the establishment of Fort Totten which was
named in honor of a former chief engineer of the United States Army,
dates from July 17, 1867. (See General Military Chapter).

Where fort Totten now stands the Northwest Fur Company had a trading
post many years ago. One of the buildings of this old post now forms a
part of the dwelling of W.S. Peck.

Major Whistler, of the Twenty-second United States infantry, and
Brigadier General of Volunteers, was the first post commander. In the
fall of 1883, Col. J.S. Conrad, of the Seventeenth United States
Infantry, was in command with a post garrison, consisting of Company I,
Seventh United States Cavalry, Capt. T.H. Nolan, and Company C.
Seventeenth United States Infantry, Capt. M. McArthur. The post has
barracks and quarters for four campanies. [For report of the Indian
Agency, see general chapter.]

Gustave Korn, of Troop I, Seventh Cavalry, is the only man who escaped
from Custer's command at the massacre on the Little Big Horn River in
June, 1876, and his escape may be attributed to his horse taking fright
at the beginning of the action and carrying him at break-neck pace into
the camp of Major Reno. Korn is a prussian by birth, about thirty-six
years of age, and has been in the United States service about eleven
years.

In August, 1867, Little Fish and 250 warriors came into the reservation,
He is chief of the Wahpetons and fifty years of age.

Iron Heart is a subordinate chief of the Sessetons, and about the same
age.

Wanata is chief of the Cut Head Sioux and about sixty years of age. The
Cut Heads form the principal portion of the Indians in this reservation.
Big Track and Red Shield [Red Shield is a war chief of the Cut Head
Sioux, and has been in many conflicts with the Indians and Whites. David
Macdonald, Civil engineer of Chiacago, has a splendid specimen of an
Indian pipe manufactured from the famous red pipe stone of Minnesota,
which the Chief presented him, with his compliments, in exchange for an
American silver dollar in September, 1883. The Chief had carried it
through all his campaigns, including the siege of Fort Abercrombie. It
is a historic relic well worth preserving.] are sub-chiefs under Wanata.
A cousin of Little Fish living on the reservation lost an eye at the
siege of Fort Abercrombie in 1862.

The Indians, generally, on this reservation, have given up many of their
old customs and habits and donned the apparel of the whites. A few of
the older chiefs are loath to give up their Indian finery and the
trappings of rank. Wanata, the hereditary chief, still dresses in the
ancient garb of his race. The young men and maidens are gradually
adopting the dress and the manners of the whites. The older squaws wear
beads, tinsel jewelry and moccasins.

Among the Indians are about 300 farmers, each occupying with his family
a home of his own, generally a log cabin, which the women keep in very
neat order. many of them are furnished with carpets, chairs and
upholstered furniture, and there is as much outward appearance of
prosperity as can be seen around the average pioneer home of the white
settler.

The mission station located at the head of Mission Bay, is under the
management of the Catholics. Sister Chaplin of the Grey Nuns has charge
of the girls school, and the boys' department is conducted by Rev.
Fathers carew and Jerome. The efforts of the missionaries have not been
without effect on the savages. Their habits, customs, modes of living
and, to a certain extent, their religious ideas, have been materially
changed, and from a nomadic life and uncertain mode of living they have
settled down to fixed habits and pursuits and, outwardly, at least,
exchanged their heathen belief for the religious doctrines and
ceremonies of the christian. The most valuable of these changes, as time
will certainly determine, is their adoption of a civilized mode of
living and the habit of cultivating the soil. Civilization will surely
follow and the time is not far distant when our Indian population will
form an important and wealthy portion of the nation.

In the place of the Indian marriage ceremonies they have adopted that of
the white people, and the priest generally officiates at their weddings.

They have adopted the burial system of the whites and a huge wooden cross
marks the cemetery devoted to the burial of their dead. For a more
particular sketch of their religious belief, language, customs,
ceremonies, etc., see general chapters.

EARLY HISTORY The earliest knowledge of the Devil's Lake region came
through fur traders who established themselves there as early as 1815.
As far as known Capt. Duncan Graham, a Scotchman, was the first of
these. He settled on Graham's Island where he built a trading post
immediately succeeding the war of 1812-15, and continued there for a
number of years. A granddaughter of Graham, now the wife of Major
Cramsie, the Indian agent, is living at Fort totten. remains of the old
post are still visible. Grahams Island was named for this man.

Agustus Rock, a Canadian Frenchman, established a second trading post on
what is now known as Rock Island (named for him), a few years after
Capt. Grahams's settlement. G.H. Faribault, a grandson of Capt. Graham,
is now a risident of Rock Island. Mr Faribault accompanied Major Forbes
to Fort Totten in may, 1871 in the capacity of farm manager and Indian
interpeter, and has been a resident of Rock Island for nearly three
years.

Frank Palmer made the first claim in Ramsey County early in 1880, but E.
Thompson, of Thompson's Bay, was the first person to make a claim and
occupy it, which he did in 1880. palmer's claim adjoins Thompson's.
Another settler was a man named Hunter, and two others named Becker and
Tom Graham settled near by. These were the first settlers in the county
outside of Fort Totten, and were all four discharged soldiers from the
fort. Becker and Graham are located on Rock Island east of Creel's bay.
The four solders all took claims at the same time.

D. W. Ensigh, from Illinois, and Major Benham, from Michigan, settled on
Devils Lake in the fall of 1882.

ORGANIZATION Ramsey County was organized on the 25th of January, 1883,
by the Commissioners appointed by the Governor, to wit: D. W. Ensign,
Chairman; E. V. Barton, G. S. Moore, who met at Davils Lake City, a town
laid out by Messrs. Ensign, Benham & co., located about two miles
southeast of the City of Devils Lake, near the main lake, on Sections 1
and 12, in town 158, Range 64. This place was chosen as the county seat
at the first meeting of the commissioners. A substantial frame court
house was constructed, and the town had a rapid growth for several
months. There were several stores, a hotel, and good number of
dwellings; but when the railway line was located a half mile to the
north, and Creel City (now City of Devils Lake), was laid out, and
commenced building up rapidly, the older town lost its hold and business
gradually departed to the more fortuate location. The county seat was
changed to the new town, and the court house was cut in twain and hauled
over on wheels. The court house was about the last building to be
removed, all the others having departed previously. It now stands on a
stone basement which contains a strong jail for the safe keeping of
prisoners.

The present county officers are the following: Commissioners, E. V.
Barton, D. W. Ensign, H. H. Ruger; Register of Deeds, John a. Percival;
Clerk of the Court, T. C. Saunders; Judge of Probate, James Linden;
Sheriff, Chas. F. Smith; Coroner, Dr. A. B. bennett; Treasurer, Capt. J.
W. Palmer; Superintendent of Schools, James V. Brooke; Surveyor, Frank
Alexander; Justices, John W. Bennett, P. J. McClory, J. A. Locke;
Constables Thomas Fassett, A. J. Wirtz.

In the fall of 1883, the population of the county was estimated by
residents at 5,000, and this number has been materially increased.

The soil is mostly a deep, rich, black loam, with a mixture of sand
sufficient to make it warm and "quick". It is underlaid by a  subsoil of
clay. in the fall of 1883 it was estimated that 15,000 acres had been
brought under cultivation; 5,000 acres adjacent to Devils Lake City;
3,000 in the Grand Coulee country, and 2,000 around the Sweet Water
Lakes. This area has been greatly enlarged the present year, and the
country is being rapidly improved in all directions.

CITY OF DEVILS LAKE This busy, growing and important city , situated
mostly on Sections 33 and 24, in Town 154, Range 64, at the head of
Creel's bay, was first settled by Lieut. H. M. Creel, Col. C. H. Uline,
wm. C. Farrington and Gardner S Moore, who made claims of the land now
occupied by the city some time in 1882. The Oswald brothers and a man
named List were also interested at one time, but sold their interests to
the parties first named. A house, the first on the town site, was
erected by the syndicate in October, 1882, previous to the laying out of
the town. The survey of the town, which was at first Creelsburg, was
completed Jul 25, 1883, and certified to by John Farrington, one of the
trustees and owners. The St. Paul, Minneapolis & manitoba railway Company
owns a five-eights interest in the town site.

The town proprietors erected the second building in March, 1883, for a
business office. The first regular passenger train on the railway reached the
place July 14, 1883.

A United States Land District, with an office located at this place, was
set apart in the summer of 1883. The office was opened for business
August 1, 1883. the district embraces a region nearly  100 miles square,
bounded as follows: "commencing at a point on the 12th standard parallel
between Ranges 63 and 64 west, thence north to the international
boundary line, thence west along said boundary line to the 11th guide
meridian, thence south along said meridian to the 12the standard
parallel, thence east to the place of the beginning."

The officers at the land office are H. W. Lord, register and A. O.
Whipple, receiver. A very heavy business has been transacted by this
office since its establishment. The district embraces an area of about
6,000,000 acres.

The majority of the land within a radius of seven miles around the City
of Devils Lake was claimed by squatters previous to its being surveyed.

The first lot sold in Creel City, as it was at first named, was lot 14
in block 24 for $750, by the railroad company on the 21st of May, 1883,
to T. T. Lee, for a general store.

The town has had many additions and in the fall of 1883 the original
plat and additions  covered 1,137 acres. The lots then numbered 3,503,
of which 400 had been sold for an aggregate sum of $200,000. the sales
of a single day reached in some instances $20,000. the highest price
paid for a lot to the time mentioned was $3,250.

The town is laid out on a liberal scale, with wide streets, and a
boulevard 100 feet in width fronting the bay.

A range of low hills or high rolling prairie, technically known in local
parlance as the "Devil's Back Bone," sweeps across the country east and
west at a distance of about five miles north from the city. The land on
this swell or ridge is all excellent for cultivation.

The first religious services were held in the town site company's office
by Rev. Smith, a Presbyterian Minister, May 20, 1883.

There are several organizations in the place, including Presbyterians
and Episcopalians, and some of them have erected houses of worship.

A private school was taught in the summer of 1883 by Mrs Brainard. Steps
have been taken to establish public schools, and probably by the time
this work reaches the place, a school will be in successful operation,
for the people of this region are in no degree behind the other wide
awake citizens of the Territory.

There are two important banking institutions. The Bank of Devils Lake,
the oldest in the county, organized under the laws of the Territory with
a capital of $25,000, does a general business, including the sale of
domestic and foreign exchange, money loans and collections. A. M Ferris,
president; H. G. Stone, vice-president; O. B. Corsett, cashier.

The North Shore Bank of H. L. Prescott and J. A. Burnett, does a general
banking business; loans money on real estate, deals in exchange and
makes collections a specialty.

There is also a large number of real estate offices, about thirty
attorneys, several physicians and resident clergymen, insurance agents,
and every variety of business usually found in towns of like importance.
A very large mercantile business is transacted with the surrounding
country, including a considerable wholesale trade. Several firms have
branch houses at St. John's, botineau, and Rolette or Willow Creek, at
the foot of the Turtle Mountains. The Turtle Mountain and Mouse River
country will no doubt contribute largely to the trade of Devils Lake in
the near future.

NEWSPAPERS The press is well represented in this ambitious city. The
pioneer journal was the North Dakota Inter Ocean, established in Devils
Lake, March 31, 1883, when there was but one house (log), by H. C.
Hansbrough, who still continues it. It is a five column quarto,
handsomely got up and well conducted, with a good advertising patronage
and subscription of 1,000. It is published in a well constructed
building, 22 x 58 feet in dimensions, and fitted up with one of the best
printing outfits in Dakota. Mr Hansbrough is present Postmaster, having
succeeded H. M Creel the first incumbent.

The Devils Lake Pioneer Press was established by Albert M Powell. Mr
Powell subsequently sold to his partner, and he in turn to H. M Creel,
the present proprietor. Mr powell was for a time editor after Creel
purchased the paper, in April, 1883. It is a seven-column folio, with an
attractive heading including a miniature birds's-eye view of the Devils
Lake region, and is well filled with choice miscellany and current news,
and has a large advertising business.

The City of Devils Lake is the natural headquarters for the boating
business of the lake. The first steamer on the lake was a small one
belonging to the United States Government and used by the Fort Totten
garrison.

The first regular steamer, the Minnie H., was built by Captain E. E.
Heerman, in the winter of 1882-3, at a cost of $30,000. She is a
side-wheel boat, 110 feet in length, and handsomely fitted up after the
manner of a first class Mississippi boat, and makes regular trips to all
ports on the lake, including Fort Totten. She can also be chartered for
pleasure parties and picnic excursions at reasonable rates. She uses
wood for fuel, of which Captain H. owns an extensive tract. No
intoxicationg liquors are allowed on board

The Arrow was brought by Captain Soper from Duluth to Bartlett by rail,
and from thence to the lake on wheels. She is a crew propeller, of the
tug pattern, remodeled into a passenger boat. There is plenty of sail
and row boats, and every necessary accompaniment for pleasure and
sporting parties. Navigation is generally open from May 1 to November
15th.

It is probable that the Saint Paul, Minneapolis & Manitoba Railway
Company will establish shops at Devils lake, as forty acres of land have
been reserved by the company. Substantial passenger and freight
buildings and round house are already completed.

It is the intention to extend the Saint Paul, Minneapolis & manitoba
road to the Turtle Mountain and Mouse River regions in the near future.
The Valley City and turtle Mountain line, projected to cross the lake at
Simrall's Pass, is quite certain to be built soon. The Jamestown and
Northern, from Jamestown on the Jim River to the Turtle Mountains, is
already running to the west end of the lake, and will soon be extended
northward.

Other lines are projected, and it is probable that before many years
Devils Lake will be the center of extensive system of railways and the
greatest summer resort in Dakota. The outlook for its future is very
promising.

the city contains at the present time a population of one thousand
people, all active, energetic and intelligent, and its increase keeps
pace with that of other live towns in Dakota. It is the established
county seat, and being centrally situated will no doubt remain so. Its
facilities and conveniences as a watering place and pleasure resort are
unsurpassed.

Devils lake was incorporated as a village in the last week of February,
1884, and is now organized, with a president and board of trustees. The
place is named City of devils lake. The post office is called simply
devils Lake and now all the names having the word Devil in them should
be rejected, and the town, post office and station rechristened with
some good, sensible name, Indian or otherwise, unmixed with either Pagan
or other superstition.

GRAND HARBOR This thriving town situated at the head of Teller's Bay,
which projects in a northeasterly direction from the main lake, and
about six miles northwest from the city of Devils Lke, on one of the
finest harbors on the lake. It was laid out in the spring of 1882, and
the first house put up in the summer of that year by A. J. Wirtz. The
first lots were sold on the 9th of June. The place has grown quite
rapidly, and now contains a weekly newspaper, The Devils Lake Globe,
established by A. j. Garner, April 26 1883, the first paper wholly
edited and published on Devils Lake; a half dozen stores, two hotels, a
blacksmith shop, several saloons, and a considerable population. The
town is finely situated. The extension of the railway north will
probably make this a point. There is deep water in the bay all the way
up to the town.

BARTLETT This place, located near the east line of the county, on
Section 25, Town 153, Range 61 was commenced in the fall of 1882, upon
the completion of the St. Paul, Minneapolis & manitoba Railway to that point,
and for a number of months had a wonderful growth and business, the
population, at its maximum, reaching 1,000. there were 250 buildings in
the place, and the people had high hopes that its boom would be a
permanent one. But the laying out of lakota, in Nelson County, four
miles east of bartlett, and the establishment of the county seat at the
new town, resulted in the removal of the bulk of its business to Lakota
and the city of Devils Lake. One hotel building was taken down and
removed to West End, in benson County, where it was metamorphosed into a
number of cottages. There remains at bartlett two hotels, several stores,
and altogether some twenty five or thirty buildings.

MIDWAY and TRACY  are post offices on the railway between Devils lake
and Bartlett.

LOCKE is the name of a post office situated on the northeast bay of
Sweet Water Lake, in Town 153, range 63. It was named for a gentleman
who entered a large amount of land lying around the lake. It is
picturesquely situated.

DE GROAT is a post office in Town 156, Range 65.

ODESSA, on the east shore ofl the lake, in Town 152, Range 63, was laid
out on a large scale, in anticipation of the railway making a crossing
here. At present it is simply a post office.

JERUSALEM is a post office on the eastern side of Lamoreaux Bay, in Town
152, Range 62.

DANA'S GROVE and ROGERS are post offices on the eastern margin of the
lake, northwest of Odessa. The only post office in the Indian
reservation is at Fort Totten.

Iron Heart, chief of the Cut Head Sioux, keeps a hotel at the
southeastern extremity of Devils Lake, in the reservation.