Full Text of “The Black Hills Illustrated” - Part 4 This file contains a full text transcription of pages 83-105 of “The Black Hills Illustrated” edited and published under the Auspices of The Black Hills Mining Men’s Association by George P. Baldwin. Scanning and OCR by Joy Fisher, sdgenweb@yahoo.com This file may be freely copied by individuals and non-profit organizations for their private use. Any other use, including publication, storage in a retrieval system, or transmission by electronic, mechanical, or other means requires the written approval of the file's author. This file is part of the SDGENWEB Archives. If you arrived here inside a frame or from a link from somewhere else, our front door is at http://usgwarchives.net/sd/sdfiles.htm STURGIS. One of the most progressive towns of the Black Hills country is Sturgis, which might be said to be about an hour from Dead-wood or from Rapid City. Its population at the last census numbered 1,150 souls, and to date has probably increased to 1,300. The town was platted in August, 1878, and was called Sturgis City. It was incorporated ten years later as Sturgis and as a city of the third class. The city government consists of a mayor and six aldermen. A board of education numbers seven members and has in charge a public school, with 450 pupils, which takes children from the primary to the high school grades and graduates them into the normal. There are 13 grades, presided over by eight teachers. Churches are represented by the Episcopal, Methodist, Catholic and Presbyterian. Societies include the Masons, Odd Fellows, Knights of Pythias, Eagles, Modern Woodmen, Redmen, A. O. U. W. and G. A. R. The ladies have Degree of Honor, Rebekahs and Royal Neighbors. The Sturgis Commercial Club of 50 members is a growing organization and is doing much good in promoting the interests of the city and country and in acting in the capacity of a board of trade. St. Martin's academy is an institution of note. It is a Catholic convent, having boarders of all denominations, from Nebraska, Wyoming and North and South Dakota. About 250 students are in attendance, and include boys and girls, the former as boarders up to 12 years of age, the latter of all ages. The site of the convent and its adjoining dormitories is just back of the court house on a hill, and the three buildings are a very great adornment to the city. The capacity is at all times being tested and new buildings will have to be added in the near future. The institution has been established about 14 years. Sturgis is lighted by electricity. S. A. Oliver established the Sturgis electric-light plant, which is located on the main street and is furnished with a 100 K. W. Warren dynamo and a 14x36 Epallis Corliss engine. The building is 50 feet square, with iron roof and sides, and the boiler and engine rooms are in an adjoining building. One hundred and forty-seven horsepower is furnished for lighting and two new high-pressure internally-fired boilers are about to be installed. These works light Fort Meade also, by contract with the government. The city has two excellent brickyards, one of them with a capacity of 25,000 and the other 15,000 bricks per day. The city has two hotels, one of them, the Hotel Scollard, being owned by John Scollard, an April 1876 pioneer of the Black Hills, who built the Custer House in Deadwood in 1876 on the present site of the First National bank. Mr. Scollard has been in Sturgis 26 years, and owns not only the hotel of 30 rooms, but also a nearby lodging house of 30 rooms, which acts as an adjunct of his hotel. One of the greatest prides of Sturgis is the waterworks system, which was conceived and started by J. J. Davenport, after the granting of the franchise. The plant was received by the city in 1893. In the mountains four and one-half miles south of Sturgis three reservoirs have been made by damming the canyon. The water comes from the mountain springs, flowing through eruptive rock called trachite; thus it is perfectly pure. It is conveyed to the city in cast-iron pipes, but on leaving the reservoir and before entering the intake the water is aerated, thus giving it the most perfect purity possible. It has a natural fall of 712 feet from the reservoirs to the city. This would give it 306 pounds pressure to the square inch, but in order to reduce this pressure three automatic regulators are used in the conduit to the city. This pressure can be regulated in that way, and in case of fire a very heavy pressure can be given. Connections are made in the city with thirteen hydrants. It is probable that the waterworks will in time furnish water for the electric-light plant, mills, and a trolley line to Fort Mead, as well as furnishing Fort Meade with water. This splendid water plant has cost $150,000 and is unexcelled in any part of the country. The Sturgis roller mills, owned by Van Winkle & Metzger, have a capacity of 100 barrels per day, running fourteen hours, and manufactures the Dewey, New Century and Eagle A brands of flour. The flour is of the finest quality, on account of the fact that the wheat in this section is unexcelled, and took the first prize at the Chicago exposition. It is shipped to all Black Hills points, as well as to Lincoln, Fremont, York, Thayer, Stockholm and Charlestown, 'Neb. The firm has also an excellent flour and feed business in Deadwood. On account of the quantity of cattle, sheep and horses received and raised and sold in the immediate neighborhood and the country tributary, large stockyards have been erected for facilitating receipt of shipments of cattle. Much wool is shipped from Sturgis. Farming is also very extensive. Wheat is the leading cereal, but excellent corn is also raised. It is interesting to note that most of the farmers were never farmers before they came here. Some were miners, some mechanics and some were business men, but almost to a man they have been successful, and in many cases are worth from $35,000 to $40,000 apiece. Fort Meade, which is located about a mile and a halt from Sturgis, is a permanent government post, with eight troops, consisting of over 500 men (all cavalry), and a band. This post cut a very prominent figure during the Indian troubles. The post is now being rebuilt, the old wooden barracks being replaced by stone and brick. The improvements will cover a number of years and thus enable the contractors of Sturgis to handle the proposition, rather than have it in the hands of outsiders, as would be necessary if it had to be completed in a very short period. Thirty-three thousand dollars is being spent in Fort Meade macadamizing roads and sidewalks. There is a volunteer fire department for Sturgis, with electric alarm system. There are four companies of 30 men each, and armed with four hose and a hook and ladder. Three of these companies are organized under state laws, by which they have a certain percentage of the insurance premiums. The Bare Butte Oil Company, with indications of oil five and one-half miles north of Sturgis, sunk a well 600 feet and encountered fine artesian water. This will be blasted at 600 feet to increase the flow and will be used for irrigation purposes. The company has found good indications of oil in Wyoming and has appropriated capital sufficient to sink wells there. The city has two excellent newspapers, both of them being weeklies, and two banks. The Meade County Bank was organized as a state institution in 1896 and bought out the First National Bank. Its capital is $20,000, with surplus and undivided profits on February 1, 1904, of $33,000. The deposits are very heavy, running about $300,000, a big portion of these deposits coming from farmers of Bare Butte valley and the stock-raising industries. Loans are made mainly on personal security, chattels, cattle and horses in small enclosures. The bank has been very successful, paying 15 per cent per annum in dividends and accumulating every year a large surplus. The officers are as follows: D. A. McPherson, president; H. O. Anderson, vice-president ; H. E. Perkins, cashier, and G. W. Huffman, assistant cashier. Mr. Perkins, the cashier, is mayor of Sturgis for a second term and state senator, has been president of the Meade County Republican Central Committee for six years, and is president of the Sturgis Commercial Club. He was at one time city treasurer of Sturgis, and previous to coming to this city was assistant postmaster at Deadwood. he Commercial National Bank is a late comer to Sturgis, having been opened October 1, 1903. Its capital is $25,000 and surplus $2,500. The deposits February 1, 1904, were about $30,000 and increasing at about $7,500 per month. H. C. Bostwick of Omaha is president, Edward Galvin, vice-president; M. M. Brown, cashier, and F. M. Shaw, assistant cashier. The other directors include some of the best known men of the Hills, including Thomas Sweeney, Charles J. Buell, I. M. Humphrey, O. J. Hansen and Henry Rodenhaus. The altitude of Sturgis is 3,200 feet. TERRY. About the year 1891, flat formation ore bodies carrying gold of more than ordinary value were the means of bringing the present location of Terry into prominence. The town is located about four miles from Lead and seven from Deadwood by way of Lead. This town is the highest in altitude of any of the mining towns of the Black Hills, being 5,700 feet above the level of the sea. The first workings were at the Welcome mine, which is now a part of the Horseshoe group of mines. Later came the discovery of the Nevada gulch formation, which was afterward acquired by the Golden Reward. This latter formation runs under the present townsite of Terry, which property is owned by the Golden Reward company. The formation is something over 200 feet below the surface. The Golden Reward company added at various times to its claims, until it now covers a very large territory and has proven to be so far the second richest mine of the Black Hills in quantity of gold production. The Horseshoe company also acquired large properties and, notwithstanding its financial quandaries of late, which have been attributed by many to past financial mismanagement, is known to possess ore of good grade and in vast quantities, and the present management is working out the problems in a conservative rnanner which augurs well for the future. The first of these properties, belonging to the Horseshoe company, was acquired by Somers & Mackay of Montreal, Quebec. They in turn sold it to the present company. The Golden Reward and Horseshoe companies are the great mainstay of Terry, whose resources are purely those connected with the mines; but there are other properties, including that formerly owned by the Buxton company and now owned by Lundberg, Dorr & Wilson. This property is also a flat formation. The ores in this section have been mainly a series of sandstone formation, with quartzite below. The sinking of shafts and cross-cutting work of late have brought to light vertical veins below the quartzite, and it is believed these vertical veins will soon become a strong factor in the output of the companies. Lundberg, Dorr & Wilson are using the Chili mill process of crushing, after which the ores are cyanided. These flat formations are refractory ores and run from $2 to $200 per ton. An average of the bulk would probably be from $8 to $12. This particular class of ore cyanides very easily and extractions reach the highest percentage of value of any ores of the Black Hills. The Horseshoe company has a cyanide plant on a hill above the town. The Golden Reward mill is at Deadwood, where they also have a smelter. Terry is situated on the Spearfish line of the Burlington railway, and two narrow-gauge systems of the Northwestern and Burlington respectively make it their terminus in lines from Deadwood. These narrow-gauge lines are used for the transportation of ore. Terry's population is about 1,200 souls. Water supplying the town is drawn from wells and springs, while a 500-barrel tank above the hill is kept full of water by the Toronado hoist and a pipe is laid through the town, giving an excellent pressure for fire purposes. The fire department has a hose cart and is composed of some 50 volunteers. The town has a school board and two school buildings, one containing four rooms and the other one, the former having four teachers. The capacity of the two schools together is 300 pupils, and every year or two requires an addition to accommodations. There are three hotels, all of good capacity and very good houses. The churches number two, one of which is a Methodist and the other Catholic. In societies, Masons, A. O. U. W., Knights of Pythias, Improved Order of Red Men, Rebekahs and Court of Honor all have strong allegiance. The Western Federation of Miners, composed of 700 members, is the most prosperous branch of the Federation in the Black Hills; it is No. 5, and owns its own building, with a large hall on the second story. This building was erected when there were only 38 members. There is also an office for the financial secretary, Mr. George Hendy, some distance down the street. Connected with Mr. Hendy's office is an excellent reading room where the miners spend their leisure moments and have a well-stocked library and all the leading periodicals for their perusal. About $20,000 is at present in the treasury, and last year $3,000 was spent for benevolent purposes and nearly $700 for funerals. The future of Terry seems a very bright one. The flat formations are such as to guarantee an increasing prosperity for the merchants for many years to come, and, after the flat, the vertical formations will undoubtedly yield a practically inexhaustible supply of wealth. The site of Terry is one of the most beautiful in the Hills. Notwithstanding its high altitude, it is surrounded by peaks in every direction, including Terry Peak (within easy walking distance), some 1,500 feet higher than the town and from which one of the most beautiful panoramic views to be had in the Hills will be found in our pages. This view covers Terry, Lead, Deadwood, White Rocks and even Bare Butte in the distance 26 miles away, while from side to side 46 miles of territory are covered. This photograph, as also one of Spearfish falls and two others of Spearfish river and canyon, were executed by George M. Heggie, a resident of Terry, who, in his leisure moments, has, as an amateur with the camera, executed the finest panoramic views ever made in the Black Hills. CUSTER. Mr. Shankland's graphic description of the early days of Custer county and Custer, when placer mining brought in the wildest element in the Black Hills, seems a dream of ages past when one views the beautiful plateau of an altitude of 5,550 feet, occupied by this dainty town of the southern Hills. We have given in our pages a series of views, both birdseye and panoramic, of Custer and its surroundings in order to show the geological formation of its surrounding country, which has shown on its surface some of the finest outcroppings of ore, not only of gold but of many other precious metals. Custer was taken up in July, 1885, as a town company called Stonewall, but a month later was reorganized and christened Custer City in honor of General Custer. December, 1875, a second organization, ignoring the previous platting, replatted the townsite. After the exodus to Deadwood, when only fourteen people were left in the original townsite, others began to dribble in during the year of 1877 from the expeditions to Deadwood; and previous to this, in 1876, after the Custer massacre, the camping on the town site of General Crook's army on its return gave a small impetus to population. Thus, in 1877, Custer numbered from 500 to 600 souls. Since then it has grown by degrees, until now there are about 1,000 inhabitants. Custer is the county seat of Custer county. The city has good waterworks, which were completed last year. For lighting purposes, it is supplied by an acetylene gas plant of large capacity. It numbers two banks and two newspapers, the latter being weeklies. There are five general stores, carrying almost everything, and two very good hotels. The surrounding farming and stock-raising, which are of the best and confined mainly to the surrounding valleys, called parks, and the lumber industry furnish a very large trade for the merchants. The best example of a large park is to be found near Custer in what is called "Custer Park." This is a large area of gently sloping land, of which a photograph is found in our pages. It is used somewhat for farming and to a greater extent for the pasturing of cattle, and is surrounded on all sides by the mountain ranges. Much attention has been given to the raising of sheep of a fine grade; also to the improvement of the blood in horses and cattle, fine Herefords being among the latter. The city government is in the hands of trustees, consisting of five members, the chairman of which is ex-officio mayor. There are also a city clerk, city treasurer, city marshal and city justice of the peace. The volunteer fire department is well equipped, a reservoir above the city, having about 180 feet fall, being capable of throwing water over the highest buildings. Henry Robinson of Akron, O., built the mill of the Akron Mining and Milling Company in Custer about 1890, to grind mica and make grease. But finally began to make car and bridge paint from ochre. It is shipped dry to Aurora, 111., and then mixed with oils and sold to railway companies. The combined company employs about 30 men. The Custer plant cost from $40,000 to $50,000. Sylvan lake, one of the most picturesque spots of the United States and a place which is becoming more popular every year, brings a large influx of summer visitors, many of whom live in the town, making daily excursions to the lake, while others live at the lake, which is only six miles distant, in a beautiful hotel erected for their accommodation. Churches are well represented and the schools are of the best. Societies are largely represented and well attended. The climate is exceptionally fine; the air is dry and pleasant, and Custer has finer atmospheric scenic effects than any place in the Black Hills, the sunsets being impossible of description. FIRST NATIONAL BANK OF CUSTER. This bank was founded in 1881 by Dennis Carrigan, being known as the Bank of Custer, and incorporated as a national bank in 1890. The capital is $25,000 and surplus and undivided profits $5,000. Directors are D. Carrigan, president; F. A. Towner, vice-president; W. F. Hanley, cashier; James Halley (president of the First National of Rapid City) and Louisa Carrigan. Mr. Carrigan has lived in Custer since 1881, his residence just prior to that being Sidney, Neb., one of the nearest railroad stations to the Black Hills, and during a trip made to Custer in 1876 he became interested in property in the town, with the result that he made the place his home, as mentioned. Mr. Hanley, the cashier, has been interested in the bank since 1891, having transacted a large business in general merchandise prior to his affiliation with the institution. Although he gives his time almost entirely to the bank, he still has a large interest in his former business. THE CUSTER COUNTY BANK. This bank was incorporated in 1890 by Frank R. Davis, James M. Woods and George F. Schneider; commenced business April 17, 1890, with the following office is: S. H. Mills, president; J. E. Pilcher, vice-president; Frank R. Davis, cashier; T. W. Delicate, assistant cashier. At the death of Frank R. Davis in 1893, T. W. Delicate was elected cashier, which position he has held since. This bank has enjoyed a steady growth since its organization. The deposits at the present time average well over $100,000, while its surplus and undivided profits are more than they have been at any former time. The capital is $25,000. The present officers are S. H. Mills, president; D. W. Webster, vice- president, and T. W. Delicate, cashier. The directors are S. H. Mills, president General Power Company, New York City; Benjamin W. Carll, ship and yacht builder, Northport, N. Y.; James Dayton, ship builder. Port Jefferson, N. Y.; George F. Schneider, cashier Pennington County Bank, Rapid City, S. D.; D. W. Webster, cashier Hill City Bank, Hill City, S. D., and T. W. Delicate, Custer, S. D. This bank is associated with the Pennington County Bank of Rapid City, S. D., and the Hill City Bank, of Hill City, S. D. T. W. Delicate, cashier, is a native of southern Illinois. When 18 years of age he moved to Nebraska City, Neb., in which place he held the position of bookkeeper in the Otoe County National Bank for five years, coming to Custer, S. D., in the spring of 1890 to assume the duties of assistant cashier and manager of the Custer County Bank, in which bank he now holds the position of cashier and director. HILL CITY On the line of the Buriington, in practically the center of the Black Hills, at an altitude of 4,982 feet, surrounded by a great mineral belt, lies Hill City, which had its first inception in the spring of 1876, it being at that time practically the second log-cabin town of the Hills, coming directly as a placer camp after the rush to Custer. At that time two solid streets of cabins stretched north and south from bluff to bluff. The placering was mainly dry digging on side gulches. When the stampede went that fall to Deadwood the town was practically deserted, and there was little revival until the advent of the Harney Peak Tin Mining Company in 1887 and the Burlington Railway in the summer of 1890. At this time over 3,000 people poured in, and the town so remained until the closing down of the Harney Peak, in 1892. It may be well to say here that the business of this company was badly and extravagantly managed, and whatever its subsequent future, its failure must be laid at the door of the officers, for no excuse could reasonably be offered for the buying of 1.500 claims and the working of them all, using every particle of ore instead of selecting that which could be worked to advantage. In this way, of course, they ran in a great deal of bare ore for treatment and their results were brought to a minimum, whereas there are quite a number of already discovered veins of large size in the Black Hills that will easily pay 3 per cent of tin per ton at a cost of not half that amount. The Harney Peak Company went into the hands of a receiver and closed down work, and this unquestionably was a great misfortune for Hill City; but at the present moment some very excellent gold mines are opening up in the immediate vicinity; copper has been found in good quantities, a tin mine yielding well will start its mill in the near future, and, while no boom exists at present, the town is advancing to a sure future. The population is now about 600. The townsite was located as a mining ground in 1878, and was then sold to the Harney Peak Mining Company, patented by them in 1888, and deeded or leased to the present property holders. The surrounding ranches of farming and cattle industries make considerable business for Hill City. The ranches in the mountain parks raise fine potatoes, oats, vegetables and hay. They are very productive and oats run as high as 50 and 60 bushels to the acre. There are seldom any drouths, as the ranches are in valleys, and, therefore, self-irrigated. Experiments with small fruits have been very satisfactory, and fruits command good prices. The cattle industry is also very considerable, as most of the ranches have herds. Lumbering cuts quite a figure. T. W. March has a sawmill one mile from town and has a planer in town. In the last two years he has sawed 300,000 feet of local lumber annually, and has brought each year from Seattle, Wash., 50,000 feet of cedar and fir; also a great many red cedar shingles. All the lumber is consumed in the city and surrounding mines. There is another mill two and one-half miles from town, which sawed 400,000 feet last summer. There are four mills on the way to Keystone and another one five miles from Hill City. The native lumber is far superior for finishing than that imported, but as yet the proper kilns for drying have not been erected. R. J. Truax, a large mine owner, has a brick kiln on the edge of town, and manufactures an especially good brick, using the creek bottom clay, which is of the finest quality for such purposes. The school system is of the best. A large school building is on an elevation above the city, has four commodious schoolrooms, and is in charge of Professor L. W. Rooney. There are two assistant teachers, and pupils are taken from the first to the ninth grade, inclusive, or from the primary through the regular eight-year common school course, and with one year of high school work afterward. In the last three years military drill and tactics are taught, and the last year of high school embraces algebra, grammar and composition, bookkeeping, commercial and physical geography, civil government and geology. There are four churches-Baptist, Episcopal, Methodist and Roman Catholic- one newspaper, an opera house, which is one of the best halls in the Hills, and two hotels, of which the Harney Peak Hotel is managed by Zachariah Taylor, who is well known as a hotel man, having had charge some years ago of the Paxton Hotel at Omaha. This hotel is commodious, has over twenty bedrooms and will be refurnished and refitted in the near future. Of societies, the Masonic, Odd Fellows, Modern Woodmen, Miners' Union and Knights of Pythias are well represented. The old soldiers also have a post. The ladies of the town are represented by the Eastern Star, Royal Neighbors, Degree of Honor and Rebekahs. The Hill City Bank, which was opened for business January 31, 1903, has had a phenomenal record to date. Mr. D. W. Webster, the cashier, who has had previously a large experience for many years at New York City, Chicago, and later at Custer, S. D., saw the field at Hill City and availed himself of it. At the close of business December 31, 1903, after eleven months, a dividend of 5 per cent was declared, besides which the bank showed a surplus of 10 per cent and 3 per cent of undivided profits, totalling a net profit for the eleven months of 18 per cent. Deposits at that time were $55,000, since which time they have been increasing at the rate of about $5,ooo per month. The bank is decorated in the empire style and has handsome offices and directors' rooms. The bank is a member of the American Bankers' Association, the South Dakota Bankers' Association, and carries burglar insurance. The officers are C. E. McEachron, president; George W. Bertschy, vice-president, and D. W. Webster, cashier. The capital is $10,000. This bank is one of the few buying placer gold to-day. It would surprise residents of many larger cities to know the enormous business done by some of the hardware and general merchandise establishments of Hill City, but, of course, the population of the town itself is practically only a supply department for a very large population. DEADWOOD. Deadwood, the county seat of Lawrence county, possesses many of the elements of metropolitanism usually found in a city of 100,000 inhabitants. These are displayed in the large volume of business transacted by its banks and mercantile houses, the substantial and modern character of the buildings in the business center of the city, the improved facilities enjoyed for communication with the rest of the world and its ready accessibility from almost any direction. It has been termed "the biggest little city in the world," and there is warrant for the appellation. Its people are hospitable, generous and well informed; they live well, in costly, richly furnished homes, and are discriminating in the matter of dress and the selection of their amusements. They are generally well traveled and enlightened by personal observation regarding the best in art and literature. They are not too much engrossed with their business responsibilities and successes to take time to cultivate the higher gifts, and there are few of its leading citizens who do not pay frequent visits to the large cities of America or journey abroad. The city government is well organized and vigilant. The internal improvements are modern in character and efforts are made by the city administration to serve the best interests of the citizens. Law and order have ever been held, even since the first settlement of the city, in proper esteem, and no people are more fervent than those of Deadwood in their loyalty to the majesty of government. [Photo - U. S. P0STOFFICE AND COURT HOUSE BUILDING, DEADWOOD.] Deadwood is located at the confluence of Whitewood and Dead-wood streams, but the narrow valleys formed by these waterways have proven inadequate to the growth of the city, so it has climbed the surrounding hillsides, many of the most handsome and costly residences being hundreds of feet above the business section, the houses rising in terraces, one above the other, half hidden by the growth of pines and spruce. Deadwood was originally located on April 26, 1876, but since that time its growth has extended far beyond the borders of the original town site; it has withstood two disastrous fires, the first of which destroyed the entire business section of the city and a large part of the residence portion. Refusing to accept the proffered assistance freely tendered by numerous western cities, the people of Deadwood, undismayed by their great loss, began the rebuilding of their places of business and homes. This great fire, which occurred September 26, 1879, was followed four years later, in May, 1883, by a flood which washed away all that portion of the business part of the city lying to the east and south of Main street, and entailing an enormous loss of property. This did not discourage its people, for they again went at the task of rebuilding the city and again refused the offers made of outside assistance. March 5, 1894, the city was again visited by a fire which destroyed a large part of the business section of the city, but even these successions of disaster did not discourage the people, for in the places formerly occupied by wooden structures now rise buildings of stone and brick, modern in all of their appointments, and the city itself, no matter what may have been the individual losses, has benefited from every one of these visitations. Deadwood was first incorporated as a city in 1881, by an act of the legislature of the territory of Dakota. By this act Dead-wood, South Deadwood, Cleveland, Ingleside, Elizabethtown, Chinatown, Fountain City, Montana City and several other smaller hamlets were included in one corporation, the late Judge Daniel McLaughlin having been appointed the city's first mayor. Since passing under the control of a city government many public improvements have been made in the city. The streets have been macadamized, fire limits established, a system of city schools, equal in point of proficiency to that enjoyed by any city in the West, provided, waterworks built, a splendid fire department and police force organized, and other municipal needs satisfied. At no time in its history could Deadwood ever be classed as a "gross town." It has ever been singularly free from the bad element that has made other western and frontier towns notorious, although writers of blood and thunder stories have frequently laid the scenes of their fiction within her portals. The people of the city have ever held in veneration the teachings of the Master, and in such a community it has not been difficult to plant the seeds of religion. The first religious organization in Deadwood was formed by the Congregational Society in the fall of 1876, and its first church edifice was built early in 1877. Since that date this society has grown to a wonderful extent, and is to- day in a most prosperous and flourishing condition, owning its building and the ground upon which it stands, while its membership is large and growing. Closely following the Congregationalists came the Methodists, and they, in 1877, through their missionaries, began the dissemination of the gospel. Their first church was destroyed by the flood of 1883, but the society secured another lot and has now erected upon it one of the handsomest church edifices in the state. The congregation is a large one and the society is one of the most prosperous in the Northwest. In 1877 the Catholics built their first church in Deadwood, a small frame structure, which has long since given way to a more pretentious edifice. This church, while its missionaries were among the very first to follow the gold seekers and the pioneers to the new Eldorado, has always been modest in its claims, but the good it has done will always remain a pleasant memory with the pioneers. It has a very large following in Deadwood, and is in a prosperous condition. It was not until 1878 that the first services held by an Episcopal minister were had in Deadwood, but since that time the church has grown and now owns one of the prettiest little churches in the West. Its services are well attended and it is highly successful. It was not until several years later that a society of Baptists was formed in the city, but to-day that denomination has a very large following in Deadwood and owns one of the best church edifices in the city. Trinity M. E. church, in the First ward of the city, is another organization which has a large membership and which is doing much good along the lines laid down by its founders. Church societies abound, and every congregation has its auxiliary corps of workers. Branches of the Young Men's Christian Association, the Young Women's Christian Association and the Epworth League have been established and every phase of church work is represented. The Lutherans hold religious services in the city at stated intervals, as do also the Seventh Day Adventists, but neither denomination has as yet a home of its own. The Jews hold services in the city hall. Deadwood's location makes it favorable for the establishment at this place of plants for the treatment of ores. Running into and through the great mining region of the northern Black Hills are branches of two of the greatest railroad systems in the United '" States, the Northwestern and the Burlington. From Deadwood lines of narrow-gauge railroads owned by these companies reach every mine of prominence, and from them is brought to the city for treatment 1,500 tons of ore daily. Here are located the mammoth 500-ton smelter of the Golden Reward Mining Company and its 250-ton cyanide plant; the 300-ton mill of the Hidden Fortune company; the 200-ton mill of the Dakota company; the aoo-ton mill of the Imperial Gold Mining Company; the Rossiter cyanide mill of loo tons daily capacity, and the Glass & Ogden cyanide plant of 35 tons daily capacity. When it is considered that all of the ore treated by these plants will give better returns than $6 per ton, the importance of Deadwood as a milling and smelting center can be justly appreciated. Wholesale and retail business houses, carrying stocks as large as many of the big establishments of larger cities, abound, and the volume of business transacted by each is heavy, for not only have the demands and wants of the city itself to be satisfied, but a populous country tributary to the city has to be supplied, and to do this businesses requiring large capital are necessary. Aside from the mining interests, other lines of manufacturing are represented. A foundry and machine shop, which gives employment to a number of men> has been established, and from this foundry most of the heavy pillars, beams and castings which have entered into the construction of Deadwood's most handsome buildings have come. A cigar factory supplies a part of the trade with goods; a creamery, the largest in the state, finds a ready market for all of its manufactured wares at prices which are reasonable and return a fair profit. Two plants for the manufacture of pressed and common brick, two planing and finishing mills, are kept busy supplying the demand for building materials, while every line of mechanical industry, including steam laundries, is represented, and those engaged in the business are never lacking for something to do, the employes receiving the highest going wages. Ever since the city graduated from the placer mining class it has enjoyed unparalleled prosperity along these lines and the wage earner has always been handsomely compensated for his toil. The Olympic Association is a social organization (organized in 1894) numbering about 200 of the best young men of the city, and contributes greatly to the pleasures of those socially inclined. It occupies one of the best appointed halls in the city, the equipments for the use of its members including every known device for the training of athletes, while a well-stocked library appeals to those of its members who do not care for the strenuous in life. Several women's clubs and literary clubs, all with good memberships, hold weekly meetings and add to the social features of the city. Lodges of Masons, Odd Fellows, Modern Woodmen of America, Woodmen of the World, Degree of Honor, Redmen, Knights of Pythias, Knights of Columbus, Daughters of the American Revolution, Grand Army of the Republic, Women's Relief Corps, Elks and Eagles have been organized in the city and have large and devoted followings. The Masonic fraternity but a few years ago completed a $60,000 temple, in which meet the different branches of that order, the Blue Lodge, Chapter, Knights Templars, the Consistory of Scottish Rites Masons for the western division of South Dakota and the Order of the Mystic Shrine. In the summer of 1903 the Hotel Franklin, conceded to be the handsomest and best appointed hotel in the state, was finished and thrown open to the public at a cost of nearly $150,000, and has added greatly to the popularity of Deadwood as a hotel town, for it is conducted in strictly metropolitan style. The stockholders of the hotel are mostly business men of the city and the hotel is a monument to their progressive ideas. They are fortunate in their selection of Mr. Harold Hamilton as manager. Mr. Hamilton has had large experience from a famous watering place near Cincinnati-the Lagoon-where he was formerly steward in charge; also at Chattanooga, Indianapolis and Danville, Ill., and later as manager of the Iler-Grand in Omaha, and his thorough knowledge of the hotel business enabled him to adopt the methods of a metropolitan hotel (instead of running such a handsome house in country style), and yet hold the expenses down to reasonable sums. The house has 80 rooms, of which more than half are furnished with private bath rooms, having both hot and cold water. It is lighted by electric bulbs; is steam-heated throughout, beautifully furnished, has a very handsome lobby, and every room in the house is an outside room. THE BULLOCK. The Bullock, which before the advent of the Franklin was the first hotel in Deadwood, was closed at that time and has now been reopened under the proprietorship of John H. Fredinburg. The hotel has been thoroughly renovated and many improvements have been added. It is now furnished throughout with steam heat and electric lights, while hot and cold water baths are on each floor. The house has sixty sleeping rooms and a number of very fine sample rooms for traveling men. The sample rooms are particularly light and cheerful. The house is run on the European plan. Mr. Fredinburg, the proprietor, is an experienced hotel man. having formerly run the Harney Peak Hotel at Hill City, S. D., and a house at Hyanis, Neb. He is well acquainted among traveling men, to whom he especially caters and with whom he is very popular. THE GILLMORE. The Gillmore is another excellent house and is well situated on the first terrace to the west of the city, commanding a beautiful view in all directions.. Several other caravansaries cater to the traveling public. Deadwood is well supplied with hotels, and has many times demonstrated its ability to care for crowds of visitors. NEWSPAPERS. In the newspaper field, the Daily Pioneer Times (owned by W. H. Bonham, who is also postmaster), occupies the distinctive position of being the most prosperous publication in western South Dakota. It prints daily telegraphic reports and all the local and mining news of the Hills. At present it is the only daily publication in the city. The Weekly Mining Review looks after the mining interests of the community in a first-class and conservative manner. These are the only publications now issuing from the city. SCHOOLS. Deadwood's pride is its public school system. For the year ending June 30, 1903, there were 1,473 children of school age in the city, and up to that date there were enrolled upon the rosters of the different schools a daily average of 1,200. To accommodate these children the city has built, at great expense, six modern brick school buildings, and for their care and instruction employs a principal and twenty-three teachers and assistants. The high school is situated in the center of the city and the graded schools in the different wards. The direction of the school affairs is looked after by a board consisting of two members from each ward and one from the city at large. The school fund is a large one and carefully handled. In Deadwood is located the United States assay office, through which passes a large portion of the gold mined in the Black Hills. This year work will begin upon a government building, which will cost when completed $200,000. Other building enterprises by individuals and corporations will be inaugurated this year, and it is estimated that the improvements for 1904 will aggregate over $1,000,000. Deadwood is at the present time substantially built, the log cabins and frame shacks of the pioneer days having given way to the march of improvement, and in no city of its size in the West can more handsome business and dwelling houses be found. CITY GOVERNMENT. The government of the city is in the hands of a mayor and board of aldermen. The mayor holds his office for two years and the aldermen for a like period. Four aldermen, one from each ward, are elected on alternate years. The present mayor, Edward McDonald, has proven a most enterprising officer, who has been untiring in his efforts to advance and improve the city, in which work he has been ably assisted by the aldermen, between whom and himself there is perfect concord. This spirit of municipal enterprise is giving the city well- paved streets, an improved system of waterworks, perfect illumiration by electric light and gas of the city's thoroughfares, and has fostered the organization of the best volunteer fire department in the West, and has supplied it with every requisite for fighting fire. The fire department consists of eight hose companies, a chemical engine and two hook and ladder companies, which have a record that cannot be beaten. Two large electric power and light plants are located here, one furnishing the power to operate the Burlington system of electric railroads between Deadwood and Lead, and the other furnishing the light for the city and the power to move the machinery in many small factories and business houses. The Deadwood Gas Company has but recently completed a large plant for the manufacture of gas, and its pipe lines are laid through every street and alley of the city. Two branches from two of the largest railroad companies in the United States, the Northwestern and the Burlington, enter Dead-wood, and their depots, passenger and freight, are among the handsomest structures erected here. From Deadwood branch narrow and broad gauge lines penetrating the mining districts in every direction, and the question of transportation, which in early days was a serious problem, has now been solved. In the matter of communication with Lead, there are 43 trains daily, while with other sections of the Hills there are 20 more. The first system of telephones placed in the Black Hills was established in Deadwood in 1879, and from that date it has grown until there is not a mining camp or hamlet in the entire 100 miles square of the country but what is in direct communication with this metropolis. Some years ago another telephone company entered the field and now serves a vast number of patrons. In 1903 the old company began the work of placing its lines, where they crossed and occupied the main streets of the city, underground, and late in the winter completed the improvement, besides installing an up-to-date and complete station and exchange. The Western Union Telegraph Company's lines enter the city, so communication with the outside world can be readily had. The Deadwood District Telegraph Company has for the past three years had a good messenger service in vogue. St. Joseph's Hospital, under the charge of the Sisters of the Catholic church, is an institution in which the people of Deadwood take the greatest pride. It is equipped with every appliance for the care of the ill and injured, and no one, no matter how poor in worldly wealth, is ever turned from its doors. A large corps of physicians give their service to the hospital, and under them is an efficient corps of nurses. The Deadwood postoffice is the distributor for the surrounding cities of the Hills, and the following interesting figures (of 1903) were furnished by Postmaster W. H. Bonham: Sale of stamps, etc., box rent and second-class postage ........... $ 16,743.81 Postal remittances received........................................ 8,422.53 12,726 money orders issued (domestic and inter.)................... 100,852.34 Fees on above ..................................................... 810.04 4,708 money orders paid (domestic and inter.) ..................... 55,701.55 Money order remittances received from local postoffices............ 474,652.21 DEADWOOD CREAMERY. This creamery (before referred to) which is owned by A. D. Sears, is worthy of special mention. It has a capacity of 2,000 pounds of butter per day. It is now making from 1,000 to 1,200 pounds per day, and is increasing fast. Five people are employed in the work and the cream is brought mainly from nine gathering stations in Nebraska, from 200 to 400 miles distant, and shipped in by express. There are also several other stations in the Black Hills. The butter is sold in every town in the Black Hills and shipment has been made as far east as New York City. The quality of this butter scored higher than any of Nebraska in the National Creamery Buttermen's Combination in Milwaukee in October, 1902. Out of 800 entries, only 32 scored as high in point of quality as that manufactured by this creamery, which is the largest one in the Black Hills. Mr. Sears also manufactures ice cream, with a rapidly increasing trade, and does a large poultry and egg business, the poultry being kept alive and utilized as trade demands. The principal jobbing business of the Hills in eggs is done by this creamery, which also conducts a wholesale trade in cream. FINANCIAL INSTITUTIONS. Banking has always been a prosperous business in Deadwood, with liberal deposits and a good demand for loans. The following three institutions, in order of establishment, will give an idea of its extent: FIRST NATIONAL BANK OF DEADWOOD. This bank was established under another name in 1877, but it became a national bank in 1878. Its capital is $100,000, with a surplus of $85,000, and deposits of $900,000. Harris Franklin, banker, mine operator and capitalist, is the president; T. J. Grier, superintendent of the Homestake mine, vice- president, and D. A. McPherson, cashier. Mr. McPherson is a Canadian by birth, having been born at Lancaster, Ontario, a little west of Montreal. His first experience in banking was at Helena, Mont., in 1871, and later at Bozeman, where in 1872 he organized the First National Bank. He entered banking in Deadwood in 1877 and became cashier of the First National Bank in 1882. Mr. McPherson was a county commissioner for eight years, and was four years on the school board. He has for the past eight years been a member of the city council. AMERICAN NATIONAL BANK OF DEADWOOD. This bank was established in 1895. Its capital is $50,000 and surplus $10,000; the undivided profits and contingency fund amount to $140,000. William E. Adams is president and N. E. Franklin cashier. The directorate also includes John Treber, one of the wealthiest merchants of Deadwood; Benjamin Baer, a capitalist now living in St. Paul, who made his fortune in the Black Hills in conjunction with Harris Franklin; and Harris Franklin, who has been one of the most successful men of the Black Hills. Mr. Franklin, in company with New York capitalists, is heavily interested in the cattle industry. He is vice-president and general manager of the Golden Reward mine and Golden Reward smelter, of which Mr. E. H. Harriman of New York City is president, and was the first banker of Deadwood, with whose city affairs he has always been prominent. The Franklin Hotel was named in his honor. BLACK HILLS TRUST AND SAVINGS BANK. [Photo - BLACK HILLS TRUST AND SAVINGS BANK.] The organization of new banks is always an indicator of the prosperity of the community in which they are organized to transact 'business. New banks indicate growing financial resources of the district. The Black Hills Trust and Savings Bank was organized last summer in Deadwood, and opened its doors September 8, 1903. It is chartered under the laws of the state of South Dakota, to transact a general banking business. Its capital is $50,000 and surplus $12,500, fully paid in. Prominent business men of Deadwood are stockholders and directors in the institution, and a large amount of the stock is held in different cities in Pennsylvania. Since the bank was organized it has enjoyed a liberal patronage from the business men of Deadwood, and the especial care given to savings accounts has made it popular with the laboring man as well. Deeds in escrow, issuing of drafts on all parts of the world, dealing in bills of exchange, promissory notes, buying and selling of exchange, loaning of money on real estate-in fact, a general banking business is transacted. The savings department is a feature of the institution deserving of especial mention. Deposits are received of $1 and upward, on which interest at the rate of 4 per cent per annum is paid on all accounts standing six months or more. Interest is compounded semi-annually. The institution is occupying temporary quarters in the Phoenix building on Main street, but has in course of construction an elegant building at the corner of Main and Shine streets-undoubtedly one of the best business locations in the city. The new building is constructed of brick and stone, with polished granite columns. It will contain a modern fire and burglar proof vault of chrome steel and has automatic doors, and will be equipped with safe deposit boxes. To show the growth of the institution in five months' business, the deposits February I, 1904, had grown to $81,000, and are increasing from $13,000 to $20,000 per month. The bank has recently been made a depository for Lawrence county. The officers are: M. J. Galiup, president; R. S. Jamison, vice-president; P. M. Brooder, cashier. The directors comprise the following, all of whom excepting the last three mentioned are residents of Deadwood, they being Pennsylvania gentlemen: B. P. Dague, George M. Johnson, F. D. Smith, Burt Rogers, R. S. Jamison, F. M. Brooder, M. J. Galiup, M. Hirsch and Richard Coulter, Jr. Mr. Brooder, the cashier, was for several years prior to his coming to Deadwood the assistant cashier of the Kane Bank and Trust Company of Kane, Pa., and has since his arrival made many friends in the community, with whom he has had social and business intercourse. Although a young man, he has had considerable banking experience, having entered the employ of the Kane Bank and Trust Company as messenger 17 years ago and advanced to bookkeeper, head bookkeeper and assistant cashier. He has made his way up the ladder with a place at the top as his one ambition, and is a man in whom the confidence of the community is placed. Among the eastern stockholders are the following residents of Pennsylvania: J. M. Jamison, president; W. W. Jamison, general manager Jamison Coal and Coke Co., Greensburg, Pa.; Richard Coulter, Jr., vice-president First National bank, Greensburg, Pa.; H. F. Seanor, director Safe Deposit and Trust Co., Greensburg, Pa.; C. H. Loucks, cashier First National bank, Scottdale; S. F. Potter, director Barclay Trust Co., Greensburg; M. J. Galiup, president Mt. Jewett bank; J. B. Hirsch, director Kane Bank and Trust Co.; Fred Johnson, director Kane Trust and Savings Co.; A. D. Gould, president Home Gas Co., Eldred, Pa. DEADWOOD BUSINESS CLUB. In the summer of 1901 the necessity of a Federal building in Deadwood became so apparent that its citizens decided to supplement the working of the South Dakota delegation in congress by something more substantial than the passing of resolutions. To this end a meeting was held, at which assembled the leading men of the city. This meeting was held in the office of Congressman E. W. Martin, and at the time the claims of Deadwood for this public improvement thoroughly discussed. At this meeting it was suggested by Congressman Martin that the gentlemen present could work in greater harmony and to a better purpose should they organize themselves into an association for not only carrying on the work on hand but also such other work as might arise looking to the furtherance of Deadwood's interests along other lines. This suggestion of Congressman Martin was well received, and a few days after another meeting was held, at which plans for the formation and organization of a business club or a board of trade were formulated. The plans of the projectors received the endorsement of the business men, professional men and citizens generally, and the result was that on the 5th day of December, 1901, the Business Club of Deadwood came into a full existence, and since that time has labored hard to advance every interest of the city and has accomplished during that short period wonders. Organization was effected by the election of D. A. McPherson, cashier of the First National Bank; Harris Franklin, president of the American National Bank and manager of the Golden Reward Mining Company; S. W. Russell, general manager of the Clover Leaf Mining Company; George V. Ayres, a prominent merchant; James Munn, contractor and builder; B. P. Dague, a well-known man in insurance circles, and John R. Wilson, an attorney of prominence, as a board of directors. The board of directors at its first meeting chose as officers for the club John R. Wilson, president; S. W. Russell, vice-president; Charles A. Coe, secretary; R. N. Ogden, treasurer. With a membership of 150 of the best and most enterprising citizens of the city, a progressive corps of officers and a determination to succeed in all of its endeavors inspiring the membership, the club began its active life. Quarters for the new organization were secured in the Waite block on the corner of Main and Dead-wood streets. These quarters of the club have been handsomely furnished and every comfort provided for the benefit of the members and visitors. Reading rooms, billiard rooms, card rooms, private apartments for the officers and a cafe were provided. In these rooms are entertained the guests of the club and the distinguished visitors to the city, and here are prepared and discussed plans for the city's welfare. The very first work of importance to be taken up was the location of a Federal building in the city, and so well did the committees of the club perform their appointed tasks in compiling a mass of statistics and data regarding the business interests of Deadwood, the volume of trade passing through it, its importance as the business center of western South Dakota, its accessibility from all other sections of the Black Hills and its desirability as a place in which should be located the land office for this district, the weather bureau, and the proper city in this section in which to hold the regular terms of the Federal court, that it was a prime factor in securing an appropriation of $200,000 for the erection of a public building, and by its labors lightened the task of the congressional delegation in securing the desired appropriations. Its next important work was the building of the Franklin Hotel, the finest in the state, which was erected at a cost of over $100,000. To secure the erection of this building the club members pledged themselves to furnish the necessary money, Harris Franklin, one of the directors, being the largest subscriber to the fund, while the balance of the amount necessary to complete the building and furnish it was subscribed by the other members and citizens in varying sums. During the three years it has been in existence the club has spent a great deal of money in advertising the country, and through its efforts it has induced the location at Deadwood of a number of cyanide and other plants for the treatment of ores, besides being responsible for many other improvements and the location here of industrial works. The second year of its existence found the club with a membership of 170, and every individual composing it as enthusiastic in the work as were the original organizers. The same board of directors was chosen to serve the second year, but there was a change in the officers of the club, S. W. Russell having been elected president; Harris Franklin, vice-president; Otto P. Th. Grantz, treasurer; 0. U. Pryce, secretary. The new officers did not allow the work of the organization to flag, but took the keenest interest in that under way, and by a great deal of self-sacrifice and public spirit, carried to a successful conclusion many of the projects started by the club during the first year of its organization. In December, 1903, a new board of directors was elected to serve for the ensuing year, and this board elected as the club officials the following gentlemen: President, John R. Russell, an attorney of prominence, who was appointed to the office of city attorney under the administration of Mayor McDonald; Albe Holmes, a mining man of long experience and one of the most successful of the Black Hills, was elected vice-president; John Wilson, a successful hardware merchant of Deadwood, was elected treasurer. The other directors are H. S. Vincent, conceded to be a prominent railway and mining engineer; H. O. Allen, who is deputy clerk of the district court; George S. Jackson, a promoter of prominence in mining circles, and Edward McDonald, mayor of the city, who increased his already manifold and taxing duties to help solve with his long and technical experience the peculiar conditions constantly arising. The directorate appointed C. A. Coe as secretary, owing to his previous experience in that capacity and his abilities as an accountant. A house committee consisting of D. F. Kinney, W. A. Remer and Albe Holmes, of which Albe Holmes is chairman, looks after the interests of the club, provides reading matter, sees to the care of the rooms and performs the other duties necessary to keep the establishment to its highest standard. Committees on entertainment, transportation, membership and legislation, composed of the brightest members in the club, have duties to perform which they do gladly and with ability. The club meets in business session once every month, at which meetings plans are discussed and projects suggested for bringing trade to the city and for the profitable employment of its vast resources. THE QUESTION OF COAL. In the conduct of its mining and industrial operations the Black Hills is not forced to rely on distant fields for the coal necessary to carry them on. At Cambria, Wyo.. but a short railroad haul distant, are located some of the most productive coal mines in the West, producing an article which meets all the requirements for coking and for domestic and industrial purposes. From Sheridan, Wyo., at a distance of 240 miles from the mining center, is mined an excellent grade of coal, for a very large part of which a good market is found in the Black Hills. From Cambria, at the present time, comes the largest part of the coke used in the Black Hills, while for steam and domestic purposes the Sheridan coal has the call. Sixty-five miles west from Deadwood are located the Sundance coal fields, which are as yet but in process of development, but with the work already done upon them give promise of equaling the Sheridan, Cambria or Newcastle coal in point of excellence and quantity. A syndicate of Eastern gentlemen, at the head of which is Colonel Twombly of Minneapolis, has secured possession of ten thousand acres of land on this belt of coal, and it is upon this property that most of the work of developing and exploring has been done. This work shows that there are now exposed three distinct veins of very good coal, that found at depth being of a better grade than that found nearer the surface. The coal is found on a level plateau, far enough removed from the Black Hills uplift to insure the continuity of the veins. The first of these veins is encountered at a depth of 150 feet, and is from four to four and one-half feet thick; the second was struck in a tunnel which had been driven into the slope of the plateau one hundred feet below the first vein; the work done upon this vein has proven it to be from five and a half feet to six feet in thickness, and of a most desirable quality for either steam or domestic purposes. At a depth of three hundred and ninety-four feet a third seam of bright, free hard coal has been struck. This is a workable vein of from seven to eight feet in thickness, and possesses many of the characteristics of anthracite, so a good description of it would be "semi- anthracite." The heat value of this coal in British thermal units nearly equals that of Hocking valley coal. To assist in the development of this ground there is at hand an abundance of excellent timber, as well as an ample supply of water for all purposes. In order to bring the Sundance coal to the Black Hills market it will be necessary to build but a few miles of railroad, and this enterprise has already received a start, the Wyoming & Black Hills Railroad Company, which has already a part of jts roadbed graded, proposing to run its line from the coal fields, ten miles west from Sundance, to connections with both the Burlington and Northwestern systems. After these connections have been made this road will be continued east to Pierre, the capital of the state, thus giving the Black Hills direct connections with Minneapolis, St. Pain and other Northwestern points of importance. Colonel L. C. Twombly, who is the directing genius of the enterprise, has the pledge of all the capital necessary to carry the enterprise to a successful completion, and already has started the preliminary work, so it is believed that by 1906 the coal fields will not only be connected direct by rail with Deadwood and Lead, but that the Black Hills will have what it has needed for many years, an east and west line of road connecting the country direct with the great markets of the Northwest. At Aladdin, connected by rail with Belle Fourche, good coal has been mined and shipped for some time. LEAD. Lead, pre-eminently a city of homes, is one of the must prosperous municipalities in the West and one of the best governed. Lead's history begins with the invasion of the northern Hills by the gold seekers, who had the year before prospected and mined along the creeks and gulches of the southern Hills. In February, 1876, Thomas E. Carey, an adventurous argonaut, who had located on Deadwood Gulch, crossed the divide separating that gulch from what is now known as Gold Run creek, in a search for placer gold. The Situation looked favorable on Gold Run, and the experienced eye of the old placer miner at once detected the indications which bespoke the richness of the virgin soil. Prospecting the gravels of the creek, he was not long in finding that his surmises were correct and that the gulch would pay to work. [Photo - HOMES OF EMPLOYES OF THE HOMESTAKE MINING COMPANY AT LEAD. Erected within the exterior boundaries of the great mine and occupying their sites, by permission of the company, free of charge.] Mr. Carey lost no time is locating a claim, and that completed, he imparted to his friends on Deadwood Gulch the fact that he had discovered rich diggings across the divide. As Dead-wood Gulch was but a short distance from the new placer fields and thickly populated, it was not long before every foot of ground on Gold Run and its tributaries was located, and the usual mining camp sprang into existence. The gulch proved to be rich in placer gold, and a number of fortunes were washed from its gravels before they had been worked over, and even for many years afterward Gold Run proved to be a paying proposition to the old-time placer miner with his sluice boxes and his rocker. Shortly after the location of the gulch and its settlement a town site was laid out. This new city, in a wilderness of pines, which was to be but the beginning of the prosperous city of Lead, was given the name of Washington. For a time its growth was slow, and only the log cabins of the placer miners and one or two unpretentious frame buildings, dignified by the name of stores, had been built during the first year of its existence. Quartz mining had not at this time received much attention in the Black Hills, the efforts of the miners being directed to the discovery and development of placer ground, so the first year of its existence left Washington still a struggling hamlet, hiding in the depths of a thickly wooded gulch, and its sources of revenue and opportunities for providing labor rapidly diminishing. In the year following, 1877, when the first attempts at quartz mining were made, the town received a new lease of life and gradually began expanding, climbing up out of the dark depths of the gulch and spreading itself over the surrounding hillsides, until to-day, when it seems as though the mining industry in that section has reached the limit of its expansion, there stands the second largest city in the state of South Dakota and one of the most prosperous, providing the best of going wages, constant employment for an army of between 3,000 and 3,500 skilled mechanics, miners and laborers. a city of homes, under the watchful care of a municipal government which guards its every interest with a jealous care. In 1877 the first gold-bearing quartz mined within the present limits of Lead was treated, and the precious metal which it contained released from its enclosing rock. This consisted of 4,100 tons of rock, mined from the Homestake mine by the Manuel Brothers, who hauled it to Whitewood creek, two miles to the south, where they had built an arasta. In this crude treatment plant the quartz was ground, and so satisfactory was the result that the mine from which it had been taken at once came into prominence. This first attempt was followed by the erection of the Racine mill, a twenty-stamp mill on the south fork of Gold Run, on the Pierce mine, just above the present site of the residence of Superintendent Grier of the Homestake Mining Company. This plant, known as the Racine mill, contracted with the owners of the Golden Star, a promising prospect adjoining the Homestake, to treat the ore from that mine for $10 per ton. This was followed by the Enos mill, the Thompson, then the Given mill, Smith & Pringle, Marshman's mill, the Wambold, the White mill, the Costello and several others, all treating custom ore for the Homestake and Golden Star under original owners until the Homestake built its first mill. Although the tolls were high, for a time the ore shipped to these mills paid well despite the extravagant price charged for its treatment. This was the birth of Lead, and the infant has proven to be of that healthy kind which grows with years in strength. The last census has given the city 8,000 inhabitants, but it is safe to say that the figures are much nearer 10,000. Lead was incorporated as a city in 1890, its growth and its importance demanding that the change from a village to a municipality be made. During the fourteen years elapsing from its first settlement until the time of its incorporation so rapid has been its growth that another ward was added, and now besides the mayor eight councilmen care for the city's welfare. Since its incorporation as a city Lead has made rapid strides toward municipal greatness, and is as well equipped in this respect as is any city in the West. Especially is this true with regard to educational advantages offered the children of its people. In 1878 the first public school was opened to the children of Lead, and during that year there was an average attendance at the school of thirty-eight. In 1903, at the close of the school year, there were 2,400 children of school age in the city, and of this number there had been a daily attendance of 2,100. To accommodate these pupils the city has built seven schools, modern in all of their appointments; and for the instruction of the children a superintendent, his assistants and forty teachers are employed. During the fall of 1903 the district completed at an expense of $31,000 an addition to the high school building, a handsome structure of brick and stone. Commodious school grounds afford ample opportunity for recreation and athletic sports, the board of education, a part of the city government, believing that a healthy mind is the necessary adjunct of a healthy body. Lead is fortunate, so far as its schools are concerned, for being situated in the center of the richest mining district in the West, its school fund is the largest in the state and, despite the heavy drain that is put upon it to care for the ever-increasing number of pupils that its schools must accommodate, it has always a handsome surplus and is never in want of money to carry out any improvement for the benefit of the pupils. In the spring of 1900, March 8th, Lead was visited by a disastrous fire which destroyed the business part of the city and much of the residence section. In any other city the loss would have discouraged the people, but not so with those of Lead. Although it crippled many business men temporarily, there was not heard a word of complaint and the started. Those who were able assisted their less fortunate brothers, and before the year had ended the burnt district had been rebuilt. Substantial structures of stone and brick raised from the smoldering ashes of frame buildings. The credit of the merchants was unlimited; the stocks which had disappeared in smoke had been replenished; new firms had been added to the list of old ones, and in less than a year from the date of the fire, commercially, Lead again took the lead. Several large department stores carrying stocks not to be found in cities of double the population, wholesale and retail houses and jobbing firms, cater to the trade with the surrounding country and the citizens of the city, which is increasing with every twelve months passed. Every year adds to the wealth and to the improvement of the city, and among its most advanced and enterprising citizens are the mayor, E. F. Irwin, and the present city council, who never hesitate to expend money if it will but add to the comfort of the citizens or the improvement of the city. A few years ago the necessity of a sewerage system was manifestly apparent. The money was appropriated and the improvement made. In 1903 a demand was made that the principal streets of the city be paved. This has been done, and to do it $80,000 has been expended, Main and Mill streets being paved with the best quality of vitrified brick, while plans have been laid to extend this improvement to every thoroughfare of the city. Streets have been graded, parks laid out and the welfare of the citizens looked after in a manner paternal in its exactness. CO-OPERATION OF THE HOMESTAKE. The efforts of the city government in preserving good order and deportment generally of the people have the hearty support of the Homestake Company, because the company insists that its employes shall not be out until all hours of the night dissipating in the various resorts of the town. Men who do that are incapacitated to a degree that the company thinks unfits them to fill satisfactorily to it or with safety to their coemployes any position that they chance to occupy in the service. There is more or less hazard in all the departments of a great mining company, and especially in and about its underground working and through the shafts it is necessary to pass and repass to get there. This is in justice to all. A good evidence of the value of this policy is in the beautiful residences occupied by employes and the large sums on deposit in the First National Bank, which, we are semi-officially assured, belongs largely to these men. In Lead are located the principal workings of the great Homestake Mining Company, its principal mills, cyanide works and hoists, as well as the mines from which have been produced during the last twenty-six years an aggregate of $100,000,000 in gold. Nine hundred and forty stamps, each with a crushing capacity of five tons of ore a day, free from the rock the gold which it contains. To keep this large number of stamps employed an average of 2,500 men are daily engaged, their wages ranging from $2.50 to $12 per day. This company alone has a monthly payroll of about $200,000, and improvements are new making which promise to further augment this monthly expenditure by many thousands of dollars. Improvements to the extent of many millions of dollars have been made by the company since it first became interested in Lead, and these include, aside from the immense sums spent in the development and working of its mines, the largest stamp mill in the world, the largest cyanide plant, the second largest hoisting works in the world, a perfect system of viaducts and underground railroads, waterworks, machine shops and foundry, supply houses and the necessary auxiliaries for the conduct of a business which adds to the world's store of gold over $4,000,000 worth of gold annually. Other mining enterprises which afford employment to a host of miners, mechanics and laborers have their location within or adjoining the corporate limits of the city, and their payrolls will aggregate at least $50,000 monthly. These mining enterprises, which are more fully described elsewhere, are not alone the sources of employment and revenue which the people of the city enjoy, for to supply this vast army of wage-earners with the necessities and luxuries of life another army caters to its wants. Two of Lead's greatest attractions, aside from its big mills and mines are the Hearst free library and the free kindergarten. Both were established through the bounty of Mrs. Phoebe Hearst, widow of the late Senator Hearst of California, and one of the principal stockholders in the Homestake Mining Company. The library is the most complete in South Dakota, and it is so well patronized that an experienced librarian is employed, together with a corps of competent assistants. The kindergarten is located in the most pleasant and attractive section of the city, and in the spring and summer time its surrounding grounds and park are beautiful, attractively appealing to the little people for whose benefit the school is conducted. Lead is lighted by electricity and gas, the mains for the latter system having been laid late in the fall of 1903. The electric light plant is the largest of its kind in the state, not only furnishing power and lights for the use of Lead citizens, but also furnishing the power for a number of mining companies in their mills and hoists, some of them being located several miles from the city. In the fall of 1903 the wires of the principal telephone system in the city were placed underground, new and up-to-date switchboards placed in operation, and the system so perfected that not a better one can be found in the West. It is said that the second company, the poles and wires of which occupy the alleys and side streets, will soon follow the example of the first and place its wires beneath the surface of the street. Beside the two systems of telephones, Lead is connected with the outside world with lines of telegraph, so communication with any part of the world can be had at a moment's notice. Two banks, a national and a state, are the mediums through which the greater part of the city's business is conducted. Both are prosperous, and both by their annual statements show that the business of the city is yearly increasing. As an index to the character of Lead's people and their prosperity the statements of these institutions will give the best possible idea. FIRST NATIONAL BANK OF LEAD. This bank was founded in 1879 under the name of S. N. Wood & Co.; later that of Thum, Lake & Co.; in 1883 it became a State bank under the name of The Lead City Bank, and in 1891 it became a national bank under the present name. The footings of this bank are the largest of any bank in the state and its business is enormous. The capital is $50,000, with a surplus of $10,000, and undivided profits of $75,000; the deposits are considerably over $1,000,000. Mr. R. H. Driscoll, cashier of the bank, is a Massachusetts man, having been born at Lowell; graduated from Harvard in 1881; was superintendent of schools at Lead from 1883 to 1886; auditor of Lawrence county from 1887 to 1889, and clerk of the courts from 1890 to 1894, since which time he has been associated with the bank. Mr. Driscoll has been one of the most prominent men of Lead and one of the most energetic props of the Mining Men's Association. Mr. T. J. Grier, superintendent of the great Homestake mine, is president of the bank, and Ernest May, a pioneer and capitalist, vice-president. Among the other directors are William Bartlett, P. A. Gushurst and Dr. J. W. Freeman. The new bank building, just completed, will be seen in our pages. It is also interesting to know of the character and residences of the stockholders of this bank, for, with the exception of five of the following gentlemen, all are residents of Lead City; therefore we append the following list: William Bartlett, Ben Baer, Malcolm Campbell, Martin Chapman, Clark & Lyon, James W. Curran, W. R. Dickinson, R. H. Driscoll, Jno. Esterbrooks, Harris Franklin, Dr. J. W. Freeman; J. S. Graham, T. J. Grier, Peter A. Gushurst, Aug. Hage, Clayton H. Harwood, Nathan Admr. Jacobs, L. P. Jenkins, Nathaniel Lamb, Ernest May, Walter W. McKay, Alex. McKenzie, William S. O'Brien, Charles W. Rose, Jno. F. Sawyer, Walter A. Smead, Estate of Walter E. Smead, Oscar Silver, Bishop John N. Stariha, Estate of Thomas Uren and J. J. Walther. THE MINERS & MERCHANTS SAVINGS BANK. This was the first savings bank that was launched in the Black Hills, and they did not start business until June, 1903, when it was organized as a state bank with a capital of $25,000. The bank does a general commercial business and has also a savings department which has been very satisfactory. The deposits on March 1st, 1904, were about $40,000, and were increasing at the rate of 20 per cent per month. The officers of the bank are H. E. Fletcher, president; George F. Porter, vice-president; George B. Thompson, vice-president, and J. J. Morrow, cashier. The other directors are S. R. Smith, a large merchant of Lead; T. D. Edwards, one of the city council and newspaper editor, and William Bartolero. Messrs. Fletcher and Porter are Minneapolis capitalists. One of the heaviest stockholders is George W. Marquardt, president of the Marquardt Savings Bank of Des Moines, and also president of the Pluma Mining Company. Mr. Morrow, the cashier, is a Minneapolis man, and before coming to Lead had an extended experience in banking in Akeley. NEWSPAPERS. Two daily papers are published in the city, the Call, owned and edited by I. R. Crow, one of the leading papers of the state, and the Tribune, a prosperous journal, owned and edited by T. D. Edwards. Both of these papers are enterprising and progressive and have done work for the city and its people which cannot be measured by money. The Call has for many years published a very valuable mining edition which has given, without exaggeration or a desire to boost unworthy properties, a weekly resume of every important item of mining news in the Black Hills. But a few years since Lead's water system was completed at a cost of $1,025,000. The city receives its water from Spearfish creek and tributaries, a swift running mountain stream, pure and uncontaminated. Water rent is reasonable, and the supply, while sufficient for a much larger population, also affords ample protection against fire. Lead's fire department is one of the best in the West and as a result of its proven efficiency insurance rates are very low in the city. A large and efficient police force guards the city, but it seems as though it is an unnecessary expense, for so few are the arrests made and so little is the desire of the city's people to violate the laws and ordinances that a position on the force is looked upon as a sinecure. The Homestake hospital, an institution primarily for the benefit of those employed by that great corporation, but to which anyone suffering or in need is admitted, is one of the best equipped in the West, and in constant attendance is a large corps of doctors and nurses. ORGANIZATIONS. In 1877 the first miners' union in Lead was organized, but since that date it has been constantly growing, and now has an active membership of about 2,000. It owns its own hall, one of the finest buildings in the city, is out of debt, has a handsome surplus in its treasury, and since its organization has never found it necessary to call its members out on a strike. It is one of the model and one of the most conservative labor organizations in the world. Fraternal organizations abound in Lead, all have a good and active membership, and all appear to be in a prosperous condition. Masons, Odd Fellows, Knights of Pythias, Woodmen and various other secret and benefit societies have found material from which to build up prosperous and healthy lodges. In other pages a description of the Homestake Mining Company's policy toward its employes and the leasing to them, free of charge, of the surface rights on which to build homes, is worthy of very serious consideration; the only titles to the surface properties of Lead (outside of the Homestake) are those which were vested in owners of the original town site, which is a very small part of the city of to-day. The company has never sold the land of one of these homes; it pays land taxes and charges the lessee nothing for rent. Of course many of the men would like to acquire full title, land and all, and there are many prominent men who think the Homestake should sell these lands to the lessees. But the company has never dispossessed a single tenant, and the fact that 1,100 of its employes are members of the Western Federation of Labor and have never even considered the possibility of a strike is pretty conclusive evidence that the present policy will preserve peace, permanent work at good wages, and as a consequence the present content of the employes as seen on every hand. Lead is the only city in western South Dakota that can boast of a street railway system. In the fall of 1903 the Burlington Railroad Company extended its trolley line the entire length of Main street, and trains make regular half- hourly trips. This improvement, together with an immense storage battery plant, cost the company in the neighborhood of $100,000. Besides the electric line both the Burlington and the Northwestern systems of narrow-gauge and broad-gauge lines enter the city, and both companies have expended thousands of dollars in an effort to bring their lines up to the highest standard and have succeeded admirably. In 1903 the Northwestern Company finished the building of the most elaborate, beautiful and commodious passenger depot to be found on its line between Lead and Omaha. CHURCHES. Lead is a city of churches as well as a city of homes, nine different congregations worshiping in their own houses. The first church erected in Lead was built by the Catholic society in the spring of 1878. This church was followed by the Congregational society, which organized in August, 1878; then came the Methodist society, organized in November, 1880, its first building being destroyed by a heavy windstorm as it was nearing completion in 1881. That same year the society completed another and more pretentious church edifice, which was completed in August, 1881, and dedicated to the service of the Lord by Bishop Foss. Closely following these churches came the Episcopal and Presbyterian societies, the Baptist, Lutheran, Scandanavian and Finn. All of these church societies have large memberships and all of them are in the most prosperous condition. Christ's Church (Episcopal) is probably one of the handsomest churches in the state and is the largest church edifice in the Black Hills. It is surrounded by handsome grounds, well cared for, and is one of the beauty spots of Lead. In 1902 there was a segregation of the Catholic diocese of Sioux Falls, and the new diocese of Lead was created, the city of Lead being designated as the home of the bishop, and Rt. Rev. John N. Stariha, who for several years had been vicar-general of the diocese of St. Paul, commissioned to the see. The formal establishment of the bishopric and the induction of the bishop occurred November 22, 1902, with elaborate ceremonies, participated in by the bishops from several of the adjoining sees, and attended by a vast majority of the citizens of Lead and the Black Hills. At that time the diocese contained less than 7,000 communicants of the Catholic Church, and of that number the city of Lead was the home of 3,500. Following the creation of the diocese and the installation of the bishop, valuable improvements were inaugurated in the church property. A fitting home was provided for the bishop, and before long steps will be taken toward the building of a cathedral and school, which, when completed, will be structures the city will be proud of, the present structure proving too small for the accommodation of the Catholics of Lead. The Christian Scientists hold regular meetings at Lead and they are well attended by Lead and Deadwood people. Lead's Business Men's Club, an organization composed of every public- spirited citizen of the city, during its existence has accomplished a great deal of good and has been the means of bringing to Lead many improvements which otherwise would not have been made. Among other things this organization has been responsible for the building of the Smead hotel, one of the best-equipped in the West. The Golden Star Athletic Club is an organization composed of the best young men in the city and the main social organization. Its membership is a large one. HOTEL SMEAD. The Smead Hotel, which was erected at a cost of $125,000, is owned by a stock company of loo stockholders, consisting mainly of the principal merchants and capitalists of the city and of the executive officers of the Homestake Mining Company. There are about 90 rooms and 27 baths. The hotel is maintained in a strictly first-class manner. This was the first hotel erected in the Northern Hills which would favorably compare with the finer hotels of the large eastern cities, and showed at the time the ambitious spirit of the people of Lead. The hotel is now self-supporting and profitable. Mr. C. R. Wagner, the lessee and manager, deserves great credit for bringing the hotel to a paying basis; but he is a man of good hotel experience and has the moral support of practically every man in Lead, besides being well known by the traveling men. The Homestake Hotel is spoken of in the description of the Homestake mine. THE CAMPBELL HOUSE. This is another hotel at popular prices and is on the main street and well located. It is owned and managed by M. C. Campbell, and well patronized. There are plenty of good hotel accommodations in Lead, but on this point nobody need suffer in any town of the Hills. THE BELT LIGHT & POWER COMPANY. The Belt Light & Power Company, with offices at Lead, has one of the most modern and complete plants to be found in the United States. The company was organized in August, 1893, and located its plant at Pluma, midway between Lead and Deadwood, in order that it might have plenty of room for building and good railroad sidetrack facilities. It is on the main line of the Burlington and is within one hundred feet of being in the exact geographical center between the two cities. This company supplies all the current for lighting and power that is used in Lead, Pluma, Central City and Terry; it is furnishing the power for the Lundberg, Dorr & Wilson cyanide plant, located near Terry, and has numerous other applications that will make this a very large power plant in the near future. The investment at the present time is about $250,000; the building is 75x100 feet, of fireproof construction and modern in all parts; the capacity is 1,500 horsepower, with room for increasing to three times this amount. The plant is equipped with steam turbines, high-pressure boilers with superheaters, condensers of the latest type, with every device known to give the very best service at a minimum of cost. There is a great future in this line of business, as a great portion of the mills which adjoin the mines are not within easy access to the railroads, but must haul their fuel in wagons at added cost. The operation of any industrial plant by motors in place of steam engines has many advantages and shows economies that will work a great change in the method of operating mills and mines in this part of the Hills. The officers of the company are Mr. J. D. C. Rumsey, president; Mr. V. T. Price, vice-president, and J. B. Baker, secretary-treasurer and manager. PHILLIPS & BARTLETT'S BRICK PLANT. Phillips & Bartlett's brick plant is well worthy of special mention. It is situated in Pluma and manufactures more brick than any other brickyard of the Black Hills. Good building brick, also a pressed brick, are made, the color is dark red. The clay is taken from the hillsides, it being a wash clay which was deposited in the canyons. The clay is drawn by trolley into machinery on the track. There are six tunnels in the dryhouse, each 120 feet long, and twenty coils of one-inch steampipe on each side of the house. From the dryhouse the bricks, which are still on the trolleys, are run into the kilns. The plant is run winter and summer and 30,000 bricks per day can be made. Every brick is a gold brick assaying $2.40 per ton. It is a stiff mud and the ore cannot be extracted from the clay. THE LEAD COMMERCIAL CLUB. This organization, which combines social and business matters, is composed of about 150 members, including the most prominent business men and others of the city. It was organized in 1902, with the following purposes in view: To act as an entertainment committee for visitors to the city; to work for the interests of Lead and the Black Hills; to call the attention of investors to the mining and commercial interests of the Black Hills and disseminate literature and information covering any and all fields of usefulness for the city and country at large; also to suggest city and county improvements in an advisory capacity to the city council and county officers, these bodies being in thorough harmony with the Commercial Club and more or less swayed by these suggestions, thereby having a good expression of opinion of any new matters from the better element of the population. At the first meeting a board of directors was elected, consisting of eleven members, as follows : Walter E. Smead, P. A. Gushurst, George M. Nix, T. D. Edwards, J. B. Moore, R. H. Driscoll, George P.. Thompson, L. P. Jenkins, W. R. Dickinson, J. W. Curran and I. R. Crow. These directors elected Mr. Smead as president and Mr. Gushurst as vice-president and appointed R. H. Purcell as secretary. On Mr. Smead's death Mr. Gushurst became president, and has remained in that office ever since. Mr. Gushurst is a pioneer and one of the most prominent merchants of Lead. The balance of the board is composed as follows: Vice-president, J. W. Freeman, who is president of the Board of Education of Lead, director of the First National Bank of Lead, director of the Black Hills Mining Men's Association, member of the State Board of Medical Examiners and surgeon of the Homestake Mining Company; second vice-president is Hon. E. F. Irwin, mayor of Lead and timekeeper of tlie Homestake Mining Company; the treasurer is George B. Thompson, a prominent attorney of Lead and a member of the Black Hills Mining Men's Association; J. W. Curran, the first fire insurance agent of Lead; John A. Blatt, vice-president of the Black Hil's Mining Men's Association; R. H. Driscoll, cashier of the First National Bank of Lead and member of the Black Hills Mining Men's Association; William Bartlett, the most prominent building contractor of the Black Hills; Hon. Ernest May, capitalist and large mine owner and a member of the state legislature; Hon. L. P. Jenkins, state senator and assayer in charge of the United States Assay Office at Deadwood, and J. B. Baker, secretary and manager of the Belt Light and Power Company of Lead and a member of Price & Baker Company, who own large timber interests and one of the largest sawmills of the Black Hills, located at Black Hawk. Mr. Joseph Feeney, who has been secretary of the club since his appointment in 1903, has given much valuable time from his insurance and real estate business for the club's interests, and has done much to help along the various works of the club. The various members are organized into the following committees: Entertainment, trade extension, railroad, state and national legislation, municipal legislation, auditing, arbitration, mines and mining and roads and bridges. It might be well to enumerate some of the work done and doing by the Commercial Club. One of the most unique projects ever handled by a business club was undertaken last fall in the creation of the Lead Coliseum Company for the erection of a large building to serve primarily as a skating rink during the winter, and for such matters and meetings as should be arranged hereafter. Ten thousand dollars was raised among the citizens of the city and a lot on the main street was purchased, and on it erected a large building at a total cost, for building and lot, of $10,400. It was opened to the public as a skating rink December 12, with the Lead band dispensing music Wednesday and Saturday evenings. The revenue in the first sixty days was $2,400, and the project has proven an unqualified success. On March 10, 1903, steps were first taken by resolution introduced by Mr. R. H. Driscoll, for a permanent mineral exhibit, which later resulted in the Homestake company establishing a splendid technical as well as instructive exhibit in the Hearst free library.