FREDERICK COUNTY, VA - HISTORY - Homesteads of Frederick County
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Shenandoah Valley Pioneers and Their Descendants

A History of Frederick County, Virginia

(ILLUSTRATED)

From its Formation in 1738 to 1908

Compiled Mainly from Original Records of Old

Frederick County, now Hampshire, Berkeley,

Shenandoah, Jefferson, Hardy, Clarke,

Warren, Morgan and Frederick

T. K. Cartmell Clerk of the Old County Court

p. 296-300

CHAPTER LIII

Old Homesteads and Families in and North of Winchester

Hackwood Park, is now the property of Mr. L. R. Fay, formerly of New York
State. Since his purchase, the famous old homestead has been improved during
the few years of his ownership; the old style of the i8th Century having been
well preserved, while the delightful transformation proceeded. The massive
stone structure was always imposing; and sixty years ago was one of the most
attractive homesteads in Frederick County. The natural wonders of rock and
water added much to its curious style, and the surrounding acreage entitled it
to the early name of "Smiths Spring Park." The present owner, with the aid of
ample means in money and skill, has utilized every bit of vantage ground to
produce the magnificent home he now enjoys. May his spirit of improvement
never wane—while his many friends and neighbors partake freely of his
hospitality. This old property became famous during the Revolutionary War, as
the palatial home of Genl. John Smith. Kercheval, in his quaint History of the
Valley, likens him to "Nestor of old;" and dedicates his book to him. The
exact date of the building of this huge stone structure has been a matter of
conjecture by several writers; and some confusion results from the difference
in dates; and this applies to the date of the General's birth. Norris, in his
History of the Lower Valley gives the date of his birth "being in the year
1747;" while another fixes 1744 as the date. This discrepancy led the writer
to diligently seek what might be a solution. The copy of the family register
made by Genl. Smith, is now on the writer's table, kindly loaned by Miss
Jacquiline Davison, a lineal descendant, who has carefully preserved the
Augustine Smith and Sarah Carver records of Shooters Hill, as well as the
Purton register found in the Bible of the General's niece. Genl. John Smith
states that the copy is made by himself. The line of John Smith and Mary
Jacque-lin of Shooters Hill, copied by Mr. Edward Jacquelin Davison, of Kansas
City, from the old Shooters Hill Bible, is before the writer. They all state
that John Smith was born ye 7th of May, 1750, about 5 in the morning. Old
Common Law causes in the County Office show that Col. John Smith had
litigation with two men who had contracted to build the stone house by the
square foot. This suit was in the courts several years, during the period
embracing the Revolutionary^ War. The building was ready for occupancy in the
Summer of 1777, for then he signed his reports to the Governor "In my stone
Hall in Hackwood Park." Lt. John Smith was member of House of Delegates from
Frederick County 1779—83. Col. John Smith was State Senator 1792—95; re-
elected 1796; was Member of Congress 1801—1815. In previous pages it is shown
that he was in active service, and held the commission of Brig. Genl. in 1801
and 1811, promoted and held commission of Major General until his death, and
received large land grants for his services. It has been shown that as County
Lieutenant, he received the exiled Quakers and held them as prisoners, and
also the Hessians and other military prisoners, and removed the latter to Fort
Frederick in Maryland.

Genl. Smith married in Berkeley County, Feby. 10, 1781 Animus Bull, second
daughter of Genl. John Bull. The author has in hand an interesting sketch of
Genl. Bull and this daughter, written by Miss Jacquelin Davison. Miss Davison,
now in her 8oth year, told the writer that this comprehensive manuscript is
not intended for publication. The descendants of these illustrious families
mentioned, should hasten to preserve the valuable work that she has spent
twenty years in preparing. The scope of this volume will not admit it fully,
else the writer would gladly produce it verbatim. The date is reliable, and
the style unique and attractive. Norris says Genl. Smith died in 1837 in his
ninetieth year. The family record says he died in 1842, and that "he and his
wife were buried at the family burying ground at Hackwood Park," which was
desecrated by Federal troops during the Civil War. In 1890, their great-
grandson, Edward Jaquelin Davison, of Kansas City, had them, with others
buried there, removed to a lot in Mt. Hebron Cemetery, Winchester, Va.

The children of Genl. John Smith were:—

(1) Martha Maria, born Jany. 23, 1782.

(2) Eliza Barnwell, born Feb. 10, 1784.

(3) John Augustine, born Jany. 30, 1786; died 1806.

(4) Edward Jaquelin, born Dec. 30, 1787; died in infancy.

(5) Augustine Charles, born Apl. 5, 1789.

(6) Peyton Smith, born 1792.

(7) Edward J. H., born 1793.

(8) John Bull Davison, born 1803.

Martha Maria married Maj. William Davison July 21, 1800. Chas. Augustine
Smith, 5th child of Genl. Smith, married Elizabeth D., daughter of Col.
Charles Magill; died 1843; was prominent as a lawyer, soldier, educator and
citizen; served in the War of 1812; obtained rank of Major and Colonel; prior
to 1836 was principal of the Old Winchester Academy; resigned to accept charge
of the Female Seminary of Columbia, S. C, returned to Winchester in 1840. He
reared n children, all of whom became well known in several states. Those of
whom the author had personal knowledge will be mentioned. Drs. John Augustine
and Chas. Magill Smith became prominent physicians in Louisiana; Augustine J.
Smith was President of the Maryland Agricultural College. Archie Magill Smith
was once principal of the Winchester Academy, when it occupied the site of the
Winchester Inn; succeeded Rev. Dr. Wheat as principal of the Episcopal Female
Institute, Winchester. Va., which he resigned, yielding later to Mr. Marshall
a few years ago. Professor Smith retired to his stock farm in Fauquier County.
One of the daughters of Col. Augustine C. Smith became the mistress of Belle
Grove as Mrs. C. B. Hite; one married Dr. L. E. Swartzweldcr; one married John
Marshall, Esq., of Fauquier County; one became Mrs. William A. Morgan of
Jefferson County, Va.; and one was Mrs. G. W. Jackson, of Waco, Texas.

Jordans White Sulphur Springs. This popular resort was originally in the
Littler grant. The sulphur springs were carefully guarded by the Catawba
Indians. Annually they gathered at that point, and performed many mysterious
drills, dances, and used the water. It was during one of these annual dances,
that our old friend (previously mentioned) Patrick O'Riely, the Opecquon
tavern-keeper, appeared, and being denied his usual privilege to iisr the
sulphur pool for one of his guests, resented the Indians' insult. The
altercation grew serious, calling for the attention of the Court in 1747. The
Indians from that time abandoned their old trysting place, with its mystic
spells. The Sulphur Spring tract became the property of Rezin Duvall, who
enlisted the services of Dr. Williams to develop its medicinal properties.
This resulted in considerable patronage of the place. Several cabins were
erected, and the pool or dam as it was called, was enlarged; and invalids from
various sections found relief. The property was purchased by Allen Williams, a
brother of the Doctor. Branch Jordan, being one of the early visitors, saw in
the place a prospect of increasing its patronage. He became the purchaser in
1834, and erected the first brick house, and bath house and several cottages;
and for many years the place became famous as Jordan's White Sulphur Springs.
Succeeding him later on came Edwin C. Jordan as the purchaser from Robt. M.
Jordan, etc., heirs at law of Branch Jordan. When Williams sold to Branch
Jordan, he reserved several lots that had been previously sold to Robert Page,
Burr Harrison and others. E. C. Jordan, Sr., was the proprietor prior to his
purchase in 1867; then he refurnished the houses and conducted the resort in
an attractive style until his death in 1889. Mr. Jordan and his accomplished
wife were popular with their guests. E. C. Jordan, his only son, conducted the
business on a larger scale; and erected the present large hotel after the old
brick house had been destroyed by fire. While the accommodations had been
increased, the patronage fell off; and Mr. Jordan, after serving the County in
the Virginia Legislature for two terms, sold out to his brother-in-law, Harry
H. Baker, now Mayor of Winchester, and removed his family to Cape Charles,
Va., where he is profitably engaged in oyster planting in that vicinity.

Burnt Factory was once known as a village, laid out in town lots. The factory
was known then as "Carters Paper Mill." James Carter, son of Joseph who owned
the Spout Spring property, manufactured a good grade of what was known as
"printer's paper." The enterprise proved unprofitable, and it was subsequently
converted into a woolen mill. Arthur Carter, a nephew, succeeded James. The
paper mill and factory are unknown to the present generation.

Glengary was the home of John R. Cooke, the accomplished lawyer who practiced
in all the courts of the Lower Valley. He was father of thirteen children.
Private letters reveal the interest he had in his large family and estate, and
his desire that his sons should "learn the arts of the husbandman during
vacation days, and roam daily over the fields and through the woods."
Doubtless the life he desired for his gifted sons in their school-days, laid
the foundation for that inspiration we find in their literary work. These
sons, Philip Pendleton and John Esten Cooke— the former at the age of 17,
while a student at Princeton, found time to write of the "Forest and Glen",
the green heather, and his steed Silver Main; while the latter gradually
developed the genius of literature that was destined to sparkle as a rare gem
amid the vales of the Shenandoah!

The Glengary of to-day is the property of John Nicodeimis, a notable farmer.
He has largely planted apples and other fruit, and is successful in his
efforts. While the original Cooke plantation has been reduced by several
subdivisions, the old dwelling-house has undergone very little change. There
is some evidence that it is one of the old Colonial houses. The homestead was
owned at one time by Rev. A. IT. H. Boyd, D. D. He succeeded the Cooke family.
Dr. Boyd never lived there, however, and sold it to James Lewis, who held it
until his death after the Civil War. It changed hands temporarily until
purchased by its present owner. Its location, two miles North of Winchester on
West side of the Martinsburg Turnpike, made it a mark for desolation by the
Armies as they camped and fought over every acre from 1861 to 1865.

We could enumerate many more old homesteads in the County, and then not
include some places of interest to many readers; hut we must for the present
turn aside and mention a few old landmarks in Winchester. If the writer were
to follow his inclination, he would make free use of the volume of notes
prepared by Mr. W. G. Russell about twenty-five years ago, which now lies
before him. But the scheme of the present work is not to give minutely such
evidences of old buildings as have withstood the ravages of time and the fad
for modern changes; but simply to point out here and there some places in
which the passer-by may have some interest.

Bell's Corner, at the intersection of Main and Water Streets, became the
property of John Bell, Sr., the grandfather of the Bell Bros, of to-day, in
1815. At that time there was a long one-story building in which the elder Bell
had conducted his mercantile business for some years, as his old advertisement
of "fine dry goods, books, stationery, &c.," indicates. John L. Bowen
inherited the property. Mr. Bell, the new owner, erected the present building,
which in all these years, has undergone very little change. In the rear of
this store on Water Street, Richard Bowen had his printing office;— later on
used by Collett, Haas, John Heiskell, Freeland Eichelberger, Judge Sherrard
and others. These offices were in two long buildings. Mr. Bell married a
daughter of Robert Sherrard. She was the mother of John N., and Rev. Robert
Bell, a Presbyterian minister, who lived in Rappahannock County; also of
several daughters, one of whom married Rev. Mr. Brown, and one William H.
Streit, the merchant John N. Bell, previously mentioned in this volume, was
one of the old Kent Street Presbyterian elders. His father was one of the
elders in the Old Presbyterian Church on the hill. John N. married twice. His
first wife, Miss Miller, was the mother of John and Samuel Bell, the well-
known occupants of the old store, Dr. Wm. A. Bell, the physician, and Robt.
Bell, the young Confederate soldier who was killed. Mr. Bell's second wife was
Marguerite Brown, of Baltimore. She was the mother of Stewart, Harmon, and the
Misses Maudie and Sarah Bell. The old stone house on West side of Lou-doun
Street, nearly opposite the old Presb. Church, was the home of Robert
Sherrard. He erected it prior to 1800, and lived there. He was a merchant and
soldier of the Revolutionary War. His children were Mrs. Bell, Robert B. who
removed to Bloomery. Robert was Genl. Sherrard, the father of Robert B. and
other children. Genl. Sherrard's widow married Rev. Mr. Harris, and was the
mother of Rev. Joseph Sherrard and probably Jno. B.

Passing from Loudoun to corner of Cameron and Piccadilly Streets, we find on
the corner a large stone house occupied by Chas. F. Eichelberger at the time
of his death. The writer knew this as the home of Dr. Robt. T. Baldwin long
before the Civil War. The previous owners were, first, Dr. Grayson who moved
to one of the Eastern counties; then it became the property of the
distinguished lawyer Jonathan D. Carlisle, ancestor of the well-known John S.,
a member of President Cleveland's cabinet. The old stone structure has
undergone many changes, but the old walls remain. South from this corner was
the home of Rev. Dr. Hill; then of Lemuel Bent. The next for many years was
known as the home of David W. Barton and his large family, now the Lutheran
Parsonage. This was once the property of Alfred T. Magill, whose father
erected the first house on the site, part of which comprises the large
building now seen,—the addition being made by Mr. Barton. South of this was
the home of Col. Chas. T. Magill, the lawyer, and for many years president of
the old Valley Bank.

South of the houses last mentioned arc two situated on high ground, that
deserve mention— the first the home of the Bell family. John Bell built the
house about one hundred years ago; and there lived and died. He was succeeded
by his son John N. His son Stewart Bell purchased the property in 1905, where
he, his mother and sisters have always lived. Mrs. Bell died in 1907.

The other house has been known as the Conrad property for a full century; and
doubtless was erected by Dr. James Conrad about 1790. The Fanners Bank was
moved into this house about 1813, where it remained until 1820, when it moved
into its new building on corner of Loudoun and Water Streets. For several
years the property was occupied by John E. Cooke. Succeeding him was a Mrs.
Scott, who used it for several years as a young ladies seminary. When she
vacated, Mr. Robert Y. Conrad began his residence there about 1827, and made
it a cherished home for his large family, all of whom were reared under its
roof-tree. Major Holmes Conrad, his son, is the present owner, and has always
resided there.

The large property on the corner of same lot, where Capt. Geo. W. Kurtz has
his handsome furniture warerooms, is an enlargement of a brick building
erected there about 1830 by a joint-stock company, composed of Roland
Heflehower and others. Thomas Latham succeeded this company; Harrison Bowers
next, and then its present owner.

Leaving this section, with many old houses worthy of mention if space
permitted, we pass Westward, to several of the old places that have been
landmarks throughout the Nineteenth century. These are found on Washington
Street. The old homestead seen on the West side, between Clifford and Cecil
Streets, was at one time the home of Judge Hugh Holmes; and once the home of
Mrs. Estelle Green and her daughters, who conducted a select school for young
ladies. This property was owned by E. C. Breeden and Branch Jordan
respectively. The latter was one of those who purchased slaves and sold them
to Southern cotton planters. Some old citizens now living can tell incidents
relating to the "slave-trader," as he was called. Mr. Jordan fitted up the
basement with prison cages for the unruly negroes.

From the Green heirs, it passed to Judge Richard Parker, the just judge who
tried John Brown. Judge Parker and his amiable and lovely wife, enjoyed the
social life of Winchester in the olden times, when society was of that select
type not familiar to-day. The original design of the mansion was modeled after
"Monticello." The property was purchased after Judge Parker's death by one of
his nephews, Mr. David McCormick, who has spared nothing in effort and money
to beautify and adorn the old mansion. His sisters, Misses Libbie and
Charlotte, reside in the old home of their father, the late Dr. McCormick.
Their brothers are identified with large enterprises in Chicago and elsewhere.

On the same side of Washington Street, South of Cecil, is seen the home of the
late Col. Win. Byrd, who lived and died there. On this site Judge Robert White
lived for many years. The old house erected by him was destroyed by fire.

On the corner of Washington and Cork Streets, an old house of note—now the
home of Maj. Robt. W. Hunter—was in the early part of the Nineteenth Century
the home of Obed Waite, prominent in his day, a noted lawyer, who held many
offices of trust,—Mayor of Winchester, and one of the old soldiers. He had
four sons and one daughter, viz: Harrison, Franklin, William, and Hugh Holmes,
the daughter married Washington G. Singleton. Mr. Singleton lived on the same
lot directly West, fronting on Cork Street, now the property of James B.
Russell.

On the South side of Cork Street, stands an old house in a large lawn
extending out to Washington Street—the home of Senator R. M. Ward. This was
known in former years as the home of Col. Richard E. Byrd, grandfather of our
R. E. Byrd.

Marvelous changes have taken place on Washington Street since the Civil War.
The handsome home of Mr. R. T. Barton was first to appear—no pavements then.
Opposite his residence was a large lot known as the Holliday nurseries. On
this we find the handsome homes of Win. H. Baker, John Stephenson, Harry H.
Baker (mayor), Mrs. M. H. G. Willis, and Chas. W. Heller. On the East side of
Washington, North of Mr. Barton, are the residences of A. M. Baker and W. C.
Graichcn; the lat-ter's house was built by H. C. Krebs, and was his delightful
home until adversity overtook him. Standing on same side of the street, but
South of Cork, are the handsome homes of James B. Russell and Dr. Julian F.
Ward. These modern places are mentioned to show the development of Washington
Street; while out on S. Stewart Street, can be seen many attractive homes, and
the Memorial Hospital, all having sprung up within recent years, and with the
colossal Winchester Inn overlooking all. This section is making rapid strides.
Passing from it to the Northern suburbs, the writer contrasts the present with
what he knew of that end of Winchester in the past. Starting on Fairmont
Avenue, the Alfred H. Powell house, now the home of Dr. P. W. Boyd, Sr.,—every
one of the handsome homes seen there (North Frederick Turnpike) going North,
have been built since the Civil War. Not a house on either side out to Folk or
Potters Hill, was there then, except an old stone house in bad repair, near
the home of Walter Barr, and the large brick house now the home of Edward
Fries, formerly the Brannon Thatcher property. On Loudoun Street extended,
North, the old Magill house—home of Geo. W. Keller, who has added modern
style, and the brick house on West side of the street, erected by P. C. L.
Burwell, were the last houses seen on the Winchester and Martinsburg Turnpike
until "Neffstown" was reached. Braddock Heights and the handsome homes seen
there being a creation of recent years. We may add, that the extension of
Braddock Street, from Peyton, North, is just being completed, opening an
avenue through a formerly dismal section, to what was once the North Common,
now the "Heights", where many handsome houses have grown up since 1900. Over
on the East side, we find National Avenue, instead of the Berryville Pike,
along which many houses arc filling the space from East end of Piccadilly
Street and Fairfax Lane, to the entrance of the old John F. Wall homestead,
now the property of Mr. Latham. No house there prior to the Civil War but the
old toll gate, which stood near the end of Fairfax Lane. These changes are
mentioned to establish dates for the new landmarks, as the city extends her
suburbs.

On the four corners of Loudoun and Piccadilly Streets, are seen at this
writing fine buildings. The S. V. N. Bank on the site of a lot owned by Daniel
Gold about 1800, where he kept a general store, prior to which it was one of
the old tavern stands. Jacob Farra obtained license several times as tavern
keeper. About 1816, the first Valley Bank building was erected. Diagonally
opposite, where the Evans Hotel stands, was the residence of Lewis Hoff, the
first cashier of the Valley Bank. Prior to the Civil War, the old wooden
building was used by Randall Evans, father of Wm. Evans, the well-known
colored hack-man. The Kremer Bros, conducted there a general grocery after the
war, until it gave place to the hotel erected by Henry Evans and Bro.,
tobacconists. Across Loudoun Street was the place known as Dunbar's Corner for
one hundred years. It was the home of Dr. Dunbar. His widow occupied this
corner house until her death. Her daughter was the second wife of Phillip
Williams. This old landmark was removed by Mrs. Williams' heirs a few years
ago, to give place to the modem store-rooms and Dunbar Flats in the rear.
Grove Bros, occupy the storerooms. Diagonally opposite, where the Cooper Bros,
conduct their wholesale trade, Capt. Wm. Throckmorton carried on a large
business. He was succeeded by Josiah Fawcett. Henry W. Baker succeeded him,
whose son, J. Milton Baker erected the present building and conducted a large
mercantile business. Passing West on Piccadilly Street, other old landmarks
are disappearing. Where the Handley Library is slowly assuming proportions of
grandeur, was the old Jacob Mesmer property, a well-remembered old log
structure. Jacob's sons: John Jacob and Peter lived there. John was the one-
armed Confederate, Chief of Police for years. The old Mackey property on the
opposite corner, where Dr. Stewart Baldwin lived and died, is now having the
ground broken for the new Government building, to be used for the city
postoffice—the old buildings all removed. It would be interesting to the
writer and possibly to some readers, to dwell longer on the subject of changed
conditions in the old town; but limited space admonishes us.


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