History of West Virginia, Old and New - Chapter X GLIMPSES FROM TRAVELERS' RECORDS This file may be freely copied by individuals and non-profit organizations for their private use. All other rights reserved. Any other use, including publication, storage in a retrieval system, or transmission by electronic, mechanical, or other means requires the written approval of the file's author. This file is part of the WVGenWeb Archives. If you arrived here inside a frame or from a link from somewhere else, our front door is at http://www.usgwarchives.net/wv/wvfiles.htm Submitted by Valerie Crook, From The History of West Virginia, Old and New, by James Morton Callahan, 1923, Vol. I, pg. 115-133 [Transcriber's Note: Footnotes appear at the end of each page in the original book. All footnotes are located at the end of this work. vfc] CHAPTER X GLIMPSES FROM TRAVELERS' RECORDS Glimpses of the early conditions and early wayfaring life along the chief routes of travel through western Virginia may be obtained from diaries, journals or letters in which early travelers recorded their observations, experiences and impressions. The records which follow begin with the journal of Bishop Asbury, the greatest Methodist circuit rider of the early period of American nationality, who frequently visited the valleys of the Potomac and the South Branch, of the New and the Greenbrier, and of the Monongahela and Tygarts, and close with a diary of Col. George Summers, the land hunter who rode down the Kanawha and up the Ohio to Wheeling and West Liberty in 1808. 1. EXTRACTS FROM JOURNAL OF REV. FRANCIS ASBURY. Glimpses of the early life, especially along the Tygart 's valley and the lower Monon- gahela may be obtained from the Journal of Rev. Francis Asbury, bishop of the Methodist Episcopal church, who made long trips on horse- back through western Virginia, and in fact from Georgia to Pennsyl- vania, eastward to Maryland and Virginia and northward to the Jerseys and to New England. The following extracts are selected for illustration: Saturday, June 2, (1781) Preached at Martinsburg; afterward returned to Brother Bruce's; he is a lily among the thorns. Monday, 4. (1781) I preached to a few lifeless people at Stroud's. Tuesday, 5. (June, 1781) Had a rough ride over hills and dales to Guest's. Here brother Pigman met me, and gave an agreeable account of the work on the south branch of Potomac. Thursday, 7. I set out for the south branch of Potomac-a country of moun- tains and natural curiosities. * * * We found some difficulty in crossing Great Capon River; three men very kindly carried us over in a canoe, and afterward rode our horses over the stream, without fee or reward; about five o'clock we readied W. R.'s. Friday, 8 (June, 1781) Not being able to cross the South Branch, we had to bear away through the mountains, and to go up one or about two hundred yards elevation. Sunday, 10 (June, 1781) I preached at eleven o'clock to about two hundred people with a degree of freedom. I then rode to R. Williams's. On my way I had a view of a hanging rock that appears like a castle wall, about three hundred feet high, and looks as if it had been built with square slate stones; at first glance a traveller would be ready to fear it would fall on him. I had about three hundred people; but there were so many wicked -whisky drinkers, who brought with them so much of the power of the devil, that I had but little satisfaction in preaching. Monday, 11 (June 1781) From Williams's I crossed the South Branch and went to Patterson Creek. I came to a Dutch settlement (in Mineral Co.): the people love preaching, but do not understand class-meeting, because they are not enough conversant with the English tongue; and we cannot all do as J. Hagerty and H. Wydner, who speak both languages; could we get a Dutch preacher or two to travel with us, I am persuaded we should have a good work among the Dutch. I love these people; they are kind in their way. * * * I am now in a land of valleys and mountains, about ten or fifteen miles from the foot of the Alleghany-a mountain that, at this part of it, is two days' journey across; thither some of our preachers are going to seek the out- casts of the people. Monday, 18. (June 1781) I was led to wonder at myself when I considered the fatigue I went through; travelling in the rain; sleeping without beds, etc., and in the midst of all I am kept in health. Wednesday, 20. We had hard work crossing the Fork Mountain, being some- times obliged to walk where it was too steep to ride. I was much blessed in speaking to about ninety Dutch folks, who appeared to feel the word. Friday morning. (June 16, 1784). From Sharpsburg I hastened on to Shep- herdstown, where the Lord set home his word. Came to sister Boydstone's, one of the kindest women in Virginia. Here all things were comfortable. Thursday, June 17. I preached at Martinsburg to a hundred people or more. Sunday, 20 (June 1784) I attempted to preach at Newtown. Friday, 25. We had hard work in crossing a mountain six miles over, and it was still worse the next day in crossing the greater mountain. I found it very warm work, though stripped. We struggled along nevertheless, and met with about four hundred people at Strayder's. Sunday, 27 (June 1784) I was assisted to speak felling words to some souls at Vanmetu's, though in pain and weariness. Thence I hasted to preach at six o'clock at Hoffman's, a third time this day. About ten o'clock at night I came to brother Dew's, very weary, and lodged there. Wednesday, 30 (June 1784) I had freedome of spirit and utterance, at J. Cres- sap's, to a large congregation; and although still weak in body, I preached again at Barratt's in the evening. Thursday, July 1. We began to ascend the Alleghany, directing our course to- wards Redstone. Sunday, 4. At Cheat River we had a mixed congregation of sinners, Presby- terians, Baptists, and it may be, of saints: I had liberty, and gave it to them as the lord gave it to me-plain enough. Three thick-on the floor-such is our lodg- ing-but no matter: God is with us. Tuesday (July, 1785) Rode to the Springs called Bath; now under great im- provement. I preached in the play-house, and lodged under the same roof with the actors. Some folks, who would not hear me in their own neighborhood, made now a part of my audience, both night and morning. Leaving Bath I came to brother Dew's (on the South branch of the Potomac) very unwell. Virginia.-Thursday, (June 1, 1786) I reached Shepherdstown with difficulty, and in pain. Saturday, 3. (July 1786) We rode twenty-eight miles along very bad roads to Melbourn's. Brother Watters preached. Sunday, 4. The Lutheran minister began a few minutes before I got into Winchester: I rode leisurely through the town, and preached under some spreading trees on a hill to many white and black people. * * * I then went once more to Newtown. I had but little freedom in speaking. I called on Mr. Otterbine: we had some free conversation on the necessity of forming a church among the Dutch, holding conferences, the order of its government, etc. Rode to Col. ----'s, as welcome as snow in harvest. My soul is kept in peace; but my poor body is much fatigued, and I am lame withal. I came over a rough road to Johnson's, and preached to a most insensible people. Monday, 12 (June, 1786) Rode thirty-one miles; spoke at Dewitt's to about fifty people; rather hard this, after riding so far: I shall go elsewhere, and do more good, I hope. Tuesday, 13. (June 1786) I had an open time at Col. Barratt's. My lameness discourages me. Praise the Lord! there is a little religion on the Maryland side of the Potomac, and this is some comfort, without which this Alleghany would make me gloomy indeed. Sick or lame, I must try for Redstone tomorrow. Thursday, 15 (June 1786) We rode about twenty-two miles, and were kindly entertained for five shillings and sixpence. Saturday, 17. We have a heavy ride to Morgantown. I was to have been there at four o 'clock, but missing my way, I made it six. Monday, 30 (June 1788) Crossed the high mountains, and came to H----'s in Green Brier. Tuesday, July 1. I enlarged on Gal. iii, 22. We then rode to M'Pherson's, a serious family on Sinking Creek, where I preached with some freedom. After cross- ing some considerable mountains, and preaching occasionally, on Friday we arrived at the Sweet Springs: here I preached, and the people were very attentive. Saturday and Sunday, 5, 6. I had large congregations at Rohoboth. I preached with some satisfaction. Monday, 7. Our troubles began; it being the day we set out for Clarksburg. Thirty miles brought us to W----'s on the Great Levels. Tuesday, 8. Reached M'Neal's, on the Little Levels, where almost the whole settlement came together, with whom I found freedom on Matt. xi, 28-30. Our brother Phoebus had to answer questions propounded to him until evening. Wednesday, 9. We rode to the Clover Lick, to a very remote and exposed house. Here we found good lodgings for the place. The former tenant had made a small estate by keeping cattle, horses, etc., on the range, which is fertile and extensive. Thursday, 10. We had to cross the Alleghany mountain again, at a bad passage. Our course lay over mountains and through valleys, and the mud and mire was such as might scarcely be expected in December. We came to an old, forsaken habi- tation in Tyger's Valley. Here our horses grazed about, while we boiled our meat. Midnight brought us up at Jones's, after riding forty, or perhaps fifty, miles. The old man, our host, was kind enough to wake us up at four o'clock in the morn- ing. We journeyed on through devious lonely wilds, where no food might be found, except what grew in the woods, or was carried with us. We met with two women who were going to see their friends, and to attend the quarterly meeting at Clarks- burg. Near midnight we stopped at A----'s, who hissed his dogs at us: but the women were determined to get to quarterly meeting, so we went in. Our supper was tea. Brothers Phoebus and Cook took to the woods; old ---- gave up his bed to the women. I lay along the floor on a few deer-skins with the fleas. That night our poor horses got no corn; and next morning they had to swim across the Monongahela. After a twenty miles' ride we came to Clarksburg, and man and beast so outdone that it took us ten hours to accomplish it. I lodged with Col. Jackson. Our meeting was held in a long, close room belonging to the Baptists. Our use of the house it seems gave offense. There attended about seven hundred people, to whom I preached with freedom; and I believe the Lord's power reached the hearts of some. After administering the sacrament, I was well satisfied to take my leave. We rode thirty miles to Father Haymond's (at Fairmont) after three o'clock, Sunday afternoon, and made it nearly eleven before we came in. About midnight we went to rest, and rose at five o'clock, next morning. My mind has been severely tried under the great fatigue endured both by myself and my horse. O, how glad should I be of a plain, clean plank to lie on, as preferable to most of the beds; and where the beds are in a bad state, the floors are worse. The gnats are al- most as troublesome here, as the mosquitoes in the lowlands of the seaboard. This country will require much work to make it tolerable. The people are, many of them, of the boldest cast of adventurers, and with some the decencies of civilized society are scarcely regarded, two instances of which I myself witnessed. The great land- holders who are industrious will soon show the effects of the aristocracy of wealth, by lording it over their poorer neighbours, and by securing to themselves all the offices of profit or honour. On the one hand savage warfare teaches them to be cruel; and on the other, the preaching of Antinomians poisons them with error in doc- trine: good moralists they are not, and good Christians they cannot be, unless they are better taught. Tuesday, 15. I had a lifeless, disorderly people to hear me at Morgantown, to whom I preached on "I will hear what God the Lord will Speak." It is matter of grief to behold the excesses, particularly in drinking, which abound here. I preached at a new chapel near Colonel Martin's, and felt much life, love, and power. Rode to the widow R--'s, and refreshed with a morsel to eat; thence to M. Harden's, where, though we had an earth floor, we had good beds and table entertainment. Friday, 18. Rode forty miles to quarterly meeting at Doddridge's, where we had a melting season. Tuesday, 22. Our conference began at Union Town. We felt great peace whilst together; and our counsels were marked by love and prudence. Virginia.-Tuesday, 29. Reached Barratt's, where we had a little rest and peace. We had left our horses at Old Town on the other side of the river, but I thought it best to have them brought over and so it was; for that night there were two stolen. On Monday we rested; on Tuesday rode down to Capon; and on Wednesday visited Bath. I took lodgings at brother Williams's, was well fixed, and found the waters to be of service to me. Friday, 29. We left Bath, and on the Saturday and Sunday following attended a quarterly meeting. I felt enlargement on Peter's case, and also in the love-feast. Wednesday, 3. (September, 1788) Rode from I. Hite's to the Blue-Ridge; the weather was warm, and so were the hearts of the people. Thursday, 4. I preached at Leesburg, and was very warm on, "Thou wilt arise and favour Zion"; and the people seemed to be somewhat stirred up. Friday, 9. (July, 1790) We had a tedious, tiresome journey over hills and moun- tains to Pott's Creek. Sunday, 11. The morning was rainy. About noon I set out for the Sweet- Springs, and preached on 1 Cor. i, 23-29. Thursday, 15. Rode to Rohoboth, where brother W-- preached, and brother A-- and myself spoke after him and the people appeared somewhat affected. Friday, 16. We had twenty miles to Green-Brier courthouse:-here some sat as critics and judges. We had to ride thirty-one miles without food for man or horse, and to call at three houses before we could get water fit to drink-all this may serve to try our faith or patience. Saturday, 17. Some very pointed things were delivered relative to parents and children, from Gen. xviii, 19. After being in public exercises from ten till two o'clock, we rode in the afternoon twenty miles to the little levels of Green-Brier. On my way I premeditated the sending of a preacher to a newly-settled place in the Kenhaway county. Sunday, 18. We had a warm sermon at M'Neal's, at which many were highly offended; but I trust their false peace is broken. There are many bears in this part of the country; not long since, a child in this neighbourhood was killed by one. Monday, 19. Rode to Drinnon's, whose wife was killed, and his son taken pris- oner by the Indians. Tuesday, 20. I believe I never before travelled such a path as I this day rode over the mountains to reach Mr. Nelson's in Tyger-Valley. Wednesday, 21. I preached at Wilson's. Here many careless people do not hear a sermon more than once in one or two years. Saturday, 24. Attended quarterly-meeting at Morgantown-I spoke on super- stition, idolatry, unconditional election, and reprobation, Antinomianism, Universal- ism, and Deism. Sunday, 25. Preached on Matt. xxv, 31, to the end; brother W-- also gave us a sermon; and a Presbyterian minister two: so here we had it in abundance. Monday, 26. Preached at B---'s; and the next day at H--'s. Our conference began at Uniontown on Wednesday the twenty-eighth of July: -it was conducted in peace and love. Friday, 6. (July 1792) We had a long ride to Morgantown: we came in at eleven o'clock, being much fatigued. I discoursed on the likeness between Moses and Christ, in the academical church. We set out for Coventry Forge, but we missed our way, and came to brother Meredic's, in the valley. Monday, 23 (May 1796) I rode to Rehoboth chapel, in the sinks of Green Briar, where we held conference with a few preachers. Here I delivered two dis- courses. Thursday, crossed Green Briar River, and had to pass along a crooked and dangerous path to Benton's. My mind is in peace. Friday, 27. I felt my self very heavy, my mind unprepared for the congrega- tion at Gilboa meeting-house, and could not preach with any satisfaction. After meeting the society, I came away much clouded. We came off from brother C--'s about four o'clock, aiming at the Little Levels; but darkness came on, and we had to climb and blunder over the point of a mountain, in descending which my feet were so squeezed that the blood was ready to gush out of the pores: I could hardly help weeping out my sorrow: at length we came to brother H---'s, where the kindness of the family was a cordial, and we went to rest about ten o'clock, and all was well. Sunday, 29 (May 1796) I was very warm in body and mind at M'Neale's. In the afternoon (contrary to my sentiment and practice on the Lord's day) we took our departure, purposing to reach Morgantown on Wednesday evening, in order to attend an appointment made for me on Thursday, the second of June. We reached my old friend Drinnon's, who received us gladly, and entertained us kindly. Next day (Monday) we opened our campaign through the mountains, following a path I had thought never to travel again. Frequently we were in danger of being plucked off our horses by the boughs of the trees under which we had to ride. About seven o'clock, after crossing six mountains and many rocky creeks and fords of Elk and Monongahela [Tygarts Valley] Rivers, we made the Valley of Distress, called by the natives Tyger's Valley. We had a comfortable lodging at Mr. White's [near Hut- tonsville]; and here I must acknowledge the kindness and decency of the family, and their readiness to duty, sacred and civil. Thence we hastened on at the rate of forty-two miles a day. We had to ride four miles in the night, and went supperless to the Punchins [floor], where we slept a little on hard lines. After encountering many difficulties, known only to God and ourselves, we came to Morgantown. I doubt whether I shall ever request any person to come and meet me at the levels of Green Briar, or to aacompany me across these mountains again, as brother D. Hitt has now done. O! how chequered is life! Maryland.-Wednesday, 15, (June 1796) I came to Oldtown, and preached to a few people, at brother J. J. Jacobs's, and the next day rode nearly forty miles to father F--'s. Wednesday, 22. (July, 1796) I will now take a view of my journey for some months past. From the best judgment I can form, the distance is as follows: from Baltimore to Charleston (S. C.) one thousand miles; thence up the State of South Carolina two hundred miles; from the centre to the west of Georgia two hundred miles; through North Carolina one hundred miles; through the state of Tennessee one hundred miles; through the west of Virginia three hundred miles; through Pennsylvania and the west of Maryland and down to Baltimore four hundred miles. 2. NARRATIVE OF REV. HENRY SMITH (1794). Rev. Henry Smith, an early Methodist minister, left an interesting narrative of his ob- servations along the Monongahela in 1794. The following abstracts pre- sent a concrete picture of local conditions at that time: From this place I pushed ahead through Clarksburg, and met my first appoint- ment at Joseph Bennett's, about fifteen miles above Clarksburg. The people came to this meeting from four or five miles around, and among them Joseph Chiveront, quite a respectable local preacher. They were all backwoods people and came to the meeting in backwoods style, all on foot, a considerable congregation. I looked around and saw one old man who had shoes on his feet. The preacher wore Indian mocca- sins. Every man, woman and child besides was barefooted. Two old women had on what we then called short gowns, and the rest had neither short nor long gowns. This was a novel sight to me for a Sunday congregation. Brother Chiveront, in his moccasins, could have preached all around me; but I was a stranger and withal the circuit preacher, and must preach of course. I did my best, and soon found if there were no shoes and fine dresses in the congregation, there were attentive hearers and feeling hearts. When I left Bennett's I went 25 or 30 miles higher up the Monongahela and preached at the house of Brother Stortze. Within a short distance of this house the Indians took a young woman prisoner, and murdered and scalped her. A messenger came and injudiciously announced that her remains had been found, and threw the whole congregation into consternation. Here I saw the men coming to meeting with their rifles on their shoulders, guarding their families, then setting their guns in a corner of the house till after the meeting, and returning in the same order. From Stortze's we went to Edward West's [near Weston] where we had a society and preached regularly. The house was enclosed by strong and high pieces of timber set deep in the ground and close together. They had built a new house outside the enclosure. * * * I do not know that I was in danger; but the Indians having but a little while before been through the country, and done mischief, and this being a frontier house, I did not feel myself secure in my exposed position. From West's we went to John Hacker's on Hacker's Creek. I believe this man could read, but not write; and yet he was a magistrate and a patriarch in the settle- ment, and gave name to the creek, having lived here more than twenty years. On his next preaching tour he wrote: They were all glad to see me, but I was rather sorry, and somewhat alarmed, to find the women alone, for there was not a man or even a gun about the place. The men were all in the woods, some hunting, some digging ginseng and snakeroot, and did not come home that night; so I had to guard and comfort the poor women and children. The house was crowded. Toward sunset we all went into the house and barred the doors as well as we could. The next day the men came home before preaching. In this place we had a pretty large society, and some very pious people. They lived, in the true sense of the word, in backwoods style. Their sugar they made out of the water from the sugar tree. Their tea they got out of the woods, or from their gardens. For coffee they had a substitute, namely rye or chestnuts. Money they had but little. They traded at Winchester and other places, with gin- seng, snakeroot, and skins, for salt, rifles, powder, lead, etc. ll their produce was carried to market on packhorses. Their wearing apparel and bedding were mostly of their own manufacture. Religion certainly did exert a happy influence on the morals of this uncultivated people, and I was often delighted with their artless sim- plicity. In their way, they appeared to be as happy and contented as falls to the lot of most people. Taking all things into consideration, our congregations were good; for people made going to meeting a business, and trifles did not stop them. In the lower part of the circuit the people were more refined in their manners. I was in Morgantown on Christmas eve, where I saw the first Indians, but they were prisoners. Captain Morgan had collected a small company of daring spirits like himself, and had gone on an Indian hunt. He crossed the Ohio and came across an Indian camp, where there were two Indians, three squaws and two chil- dren. * * * The young women were sad and reserved. They all appeared to be uneasy and somewhat alarmed when strangers came in. After the treaty they were returned or exchanged. * * * We preached in the court house at eleven o'clock; for we had no meeting house, neither was there any place of worship in the town. We had but one-half finished log meeting house in the whole circuit. We labored hard and suffered not a little, and did not get the half of $64 for support. We travelled through all weathers and dangers, over bad roads and slippery hills, and crossed deep waters, having the Monongahela to cross seven times every round, and few ferries. Our fare was plain enough. Sometimes we had venison and bear meat in abundance, and always served up in the best style. It is true my delicate appetite sometimes revolted and boggled, till I suffered in the flesh. I then concluded to eat such things as were set before me; for other people ate them and enjoyed health and why not I? After I had conquered my foolish prejudice, I got along better. Our lodgings were often un- comfortable. I was invited to have an appointment at a brother's house one night. After the people were gone, I found there was but one small bed in the house. When bedtime came, the good woman took her bed and spread it crosswise be- fore a fine log fire, and I was requested to lie down on one end; and it answered very well for me, the man and his wife, and two children. This indeed was very comfortable to what I had sometimes. Most of my clothes by this time became threadbare, and some worn out, and I had no money to buy new ones. I had to put up one night with a strange family, and I was obliged to keep on my overcoat to hide the rents in my clothes. On this circuit I learned some lessons in the school of adversity which have been of great service to me during my itineracy. Although I never was in real danger from the Indians, yet I have often ridden fifteen or twenty miles through the woods where no one lived, the people having fled from danger; and I rode alone, for I never had any guard but the angels. The tales of woe that were told me in almost every place where there was danger; the places pointed out where murders had been committed, sleeping in houses where the people who were inured to these things were afraid to go out of doors after sunset; I say, riding alone under these circumstances was far from agreeable. I was, however, often in real danger in crossing rivers, swimming creeks, etc. I found the people remarkably kind and sociable. Many pleasant hours were spent together by the side of log fires in our log cabins, conversing on various subjects. It is true, some of us smoked the pipe with them, but we really thought there was no harm in that, for we had no anti- tobacco societies among us then. I believe James Fleming and myself were the last who traveled the Clarksburg circuit during the Indian wars. 3. EXTRACT FROM JOURNAL OF THOMAS WALLCUTT (1790). The fol- lowing is a part of the "Journal" of Thomas "Wallcutt of Massachusetts who went to Marietta in 1790 and returned eastward over the new route via Clarksburg, Cumberland, Hancock, Carlisle, Pennsylvania: Monday, 8 March, 1790 [Marietta]. We were up before sunrise, and got some hot breakfast, coffee and toast; and Captain Prince, Mr. Moody, Mr. Skinner, Captain Mills and brother, Mr. Bent, &c., accompanied us over the river to Sargent's or Williams's, and took leave of us about nine o'clock, and we proceeded on our journey. We had gone but a little way when we found the path so blind that we could not proceed with certainty, and I was obliged to go back and get a young man to come and show us the way. When we had got back to our companions again, they had found the road, and we walked twenty miles this day. Tuesday, 9 March, 1790. The country very rough, the hills high and sharp. One third of the road must go over and on the ridges, and another third through the valleys. We walked this day about twenty-three or twenty-four miles, and slept near the forty-fourth or forty-fifth mile tree. Wednesday, 10 March, 1790. To-day we crossed several of the large creeks and waters that fall into the Ohio. This occasioned a loss of much time, waiting for the horse to come over for each one, which he did as regularly as a man would. The country much the same, but rather better today, except that a great deal of the road runs along through the streams, and down the streams such a length with the many bridges that will be wanted, that it will be a vast expense, besides the risk and damage of being carried away every year by the floods. We had so much trouble in crossing these streams that at last we forded on foot. One of the largest in par- ticular, after we had rode it several times, we waded it four or five times almost knee-deep, and after that a number of times on logs, or otherwise, without going in water. Two of the streams, I doubt not, we crossed as often as twenty times each. We walked this day about fifteen miles. Thursday, 11 March, 1790. With much fatigue and pain in my left leg, we walked about fifteen miles to-day. They all walked better than I, and had got to Carpenter's and had done their dinner about two o'clock when I arrived. They appear to be good farmers and good livers, have a good house, and seem very clever people. Mr. C. is gone down the country. They have been a frontier here for fifteen years, and have several times been obliged to move away. I got a dish of coffee and meat for dinner, and paid ninepence each, for the doctor and me. We set off, and crossed the west branch of the Monongahela over the Clarksburg. The doctor paid his own ferriage. We went to Major Robinson's, and had tea and meat, &e., for supper. I paid ninepence each, for the doctor and me. Weather dull and unpleasant, as yesterday. Friday, 12 March, 1790. We set off before sunrise and got a little out of our road into the Morgantown road, but soon got right again. We breakfasted at Webb's mill, a good house and clever folks. Had coffee, meat, &c.; paid sixpence each, for me and the doctor. Lodged at Wickware's, who says he is a Yankee, but is a very disagreeable man for any country, rough and ugly, and he is very dear. I paid one shilling apiece for the doctor's and my supper, upon some tea made of mountain birch, perhaps black birch, stewed pumpkin, and sodden meat. Appetite supplies all deficiencies. Saturday, 13 March, 1790. Set off not so early this morning as yesterday. The doctor paid his ferriage himself. Mr. Moore, a traveller toward his home in Dunker's Bottom, Fayette County, Pennsylvania, (?) set out with us. He seems a very mild, good-natured, obliging old gentleman, and lent me his horse to ride about two miles, while he drove his pair of steers on foot. The doctor and I being both excessively fatigued, he with a pain in his knee, and mine in my left leg, but shifting about, were unable to keep up with our company, and fell much behind them. Met Mr. Carpenter on his return home. He appears to be a very clever man. When he had come to Field's I found Mr. Dodge had left his horse for us to ride, and to help us along, which we could not have done without. We got a dish of tea without milk, some dried smoked meat and hominy for dinner; and from about three o 'clock to nine at night, got to Ramsay 's. Seven miles of our way were through a new blazed path where they propose to cut a new road. We got out of this in good season, at sundown or before dark, into the wagon road, and forded Cheat River on our horses. Tea, meat, &c., for supper. Old Simpson and Horton, a con- stable, had a terrible scuffle here this evening. Lord's Day, 14 March, 1790. Mr. Dodge is hurrying to go away again. I tell him I must rest to-day. I have not written anything worth mention in my journal since I set out, until to-day, and so must do it from memory. I want to shave a beard seven days old, and change a shirt about a fortnight dirty; and my fatigue makes rest absolutely necessary. So take my rest this day, whether he has a mind to go or stay with us. Eat very hearty of hominy or boiled corn with milk for breakfast, and boiled smoked beef and pork for dinner, with turnips. After dinner shaved and shirted me, which took till near night, it being a dark house, without a bit of window, as indeed there is scarce a house on this road that has any. Monday, 15 March, 1790. Waited and got some tea for breakfast, before we set out. Settled with Ramsay, and paid him 9d. per meal, for five meals, and half- pint whiskey 6d. The whole came to eight shillings. Weather very pleasant most of the day. We walked to Brien's about half past six o'clock, which they call twenty-four miles. We eat a little fried salt pork and bit of venison at Friends', and then crossed the great Yonghiogheny. About two miles further on, we crossed the little ditto at Boyles's. * * * We walked about or near an hour after dark, and were very agreeably surprised to find ourselves at Brien's instead of Stack- pole's, which is four miles further than we expected. Eat a bit of Indian bread, and the woman gave us each about half a pint of milk to drink, which was all our supper. Tuesday, 16 March, 1790. "We were up this morning, and away about or before sunrise, and ascended the backbone of the Allegheny, and got breakfast at Wil- liams's. I cannot keep up with my company. It took me till dark to get to Davis's. Messers. Dodge and Proctor had gone on before us about three miles to Dawson's. We got some bread and butter and milk for supper, and drank a quart of cider. Mr. Davis was originally from Ashford, county of Windham, Connecticut; has been many years settled in this country; has married twice, and got many children. His cider in a brown mug seemed more like home than any thing I have met with. Wednesday, 17 March. We were up this morning before day, and were set off before it was cleverly light. Got to Dawson's, three miles, where Messers, D. & P. lodged, and got some tea for breakfast, and set off in good season, the doctor and I falling behind. * * * We stopped about a mile and a half from the Metho- dist meeting near the cross roads at Cressops, and four from Cumberland, and got some fried meat and eggs, milk, butter, &e., for dinner, which was a half pistareen each. After dinner the doctor and I walked into Cumberland village about three o'clock, and put up at Herman Stitcher's or Stidger's. We called for two mugs of cider, and got tea, bread and butter, and a boiled leg of fresh young pork for supper. The upper part of the county of Washington has lately been made a sep- arate county, and called Allegheny, as it extends over part of that mountain, and reaches to the extreme boundary of Maryland. The courts, it is expected, will be fixed and held at this place, Cumberland, which will probably increase its growth, as it thrives pretty fast already. * * * Thursday, 18 March. Paid Mr. Dodge 6s. advance. A very fine day. We stayed and got breakfast at Stitcher's, and walked from about eight o'clock to twelve, to Old Town, and dined at Jacob's, and then walked to Dakins's to lodge, where we got a dish of Indian or some other home coffee, with a fry of chicken and other meat for supper. This is the first meal I have paid a shilling L. M. for. * * * We walked twenty-five miles to-day. Friday, 19 March, 1790. Very fine weather again to-day. We walked twenty- four miles to McFarren's in Hancock, and arrived there, sun about half an hour high. McFarren says this town has been settled about ten or twelve years, and is called for the man who laid it out or owned it, and not after Governor Hancock. It is a small but growing place of about twenty or thirty houses, near the bank of the Potomac, thirty-five miles below Old Town, and five below Fort Cumberland; twenty-four above Williamsport, and ninety-five above Georgetown. We slept at McFarren's, a so-so house. He insisted on our sleeping in beds, and would not per- mit sleeping on the floors. * * * Saturday, 20 March. A very fine day again. We have had remarkably fine weather on this journey hitherto. But two days we had any rain, and then but little. We stayed and got breakfast at McFarren 's, and set out about eight o 'clock, and walked about twenty-one miles this day to Thompson's, about half a mile from Buchanan's in the Cover Gap in the North Mountain. * * * 4. EXTRACTS FROM LETTER OF ERIC BOLLMAN (1796). The follow- ing letter was written in 1796, twelve years after Washington's journey of 1784, by Eric Bollman, a traveler through Maryland and via Dun- kard's Bottom to Morgantown and thence to Pittsburgh via Uniontown, Brownsville and Washington (Pa.): From Cumberland we have journeyed over the Allegheny Mountains in company with General Irwin, of Baltimore, who owns some 50,000 acres in this vicinity. * * * We spent the first night at West Port. Up to this point, at the proper seasons, the Potomac is navigable and could be made so quite a distance further. But even in the present state the land journey to the Monongahela, which is navigable and flows into the Ohio, is but a distance of 60 miles. The road is not in a bad condition and could be made most excellent. This will, without doubt, be accomplished just as soon as the country is sufficiently in- habited, since there is no nearer way to reach the Western waters. The next day we dined with Mr. M. McCartin, still higher up in the mountains. There are many settlements in this vicinity. We were entertained in a beautiful, cool, roomy house, surrounded by oat fields and rich meadows, where the sound of the bells told that cattle were pasturing near by. We dined from delicate china, had good knives, good forks, spoons, and other utensils. Our hostess, a bright, hand- some, healthy woman, waited upon us. After dinner, a charming feminine guest arrived on horseback; a young girl from the neighboring farm, of perhaps 15 years of age, with such bashful eyes and such rosy cheeks, so lovely and attractive in manner that even Coopley, our good mathematician, could not restrain his admiration. This is the "backwoods" of America, which the Philadelphian is pleased to describe as a rough wilderness-while in many parts of Europe, in Westphalia, in the whole of Hungary and Poland, nowhere, is there a cottage to be found, which, taking all things together in consideration of the inhabitant, can be compared with the one of which I have just written. Four miles from this we reached the Glades, one of the most remarkable fea- tures of these mountains and this land.* * * Many hundred head of cattle are driven yearly, from the South Branch and other surrounding places, and entrusted to the care of the people who live here. * * * Only lately have the Indians ceased roving in this vicinity; which has done much to delay its cultivation, but now it is being cleared quite rapidly, and in a short time will, without doubt, become a fine place for pasturage. We spent the second night with one named Boyle, an old Hollander. Early the next morning we could hear the howling of a wolf in the forest. We breakfasted with Tim Friend {***SEE TRANSCRIBERS NOTE}, a hunter, who lived six miles further on. If ever Adam existed he must have looked as this Tim Friend. I never saw such an illustration of perfect manhood. * * * His conversation satisfied the ex- pectations which it awakened. With gray head, 60 years old, 40 of which he had lived in the mountains, and of an observing mind, he could not find it difficult to agreeably entertain people who wished for information. He is a hunter by pro- fession. We had choice venison for breakfast, and there were around the house and near by a great number of deer, bears, panthers, etc. * * * We left our noble hunter and his large, attractive family unwillingly and followed a roadway to Duncard's Bottom, on Cheat river. * * * We dined at Duncard's Bottom, crossed the Cheat river in the afternoon, reached the Monongahela Valley, spent the night in a very comfortable blockhouse with Mr. Zinn, and arrived the next day at Morgantown, on the Monongahela. We spent a day and a half here and were pleasantly entertained by Mr. Reeder and William M. Clary, and received much information, especially concerning sugar, maple trees and sugar making. From Morgantown we went to the mouth of George creek, Fayette county, Pennsylvania. As it was afternoon when we reached here we were overtaken by night and compelled to spend the night in a small blockhouse with Mr. McFarlain. We found Mr. McFarlain a respectable, intelligent farmer, sur- rounded as usual, by a large and happy family. Directly after our arrival the table was set, around which the entire family assembled. This appears to be the usual custom in the United States with all people who are in some measure in good circumstances. One of the women, usually the prettiest, has the honor of presiding at table. There were good table appointments, fine china, and the simple feast was served with the same ceremony as in the most fashionable society of Philadelphia. Never, I believe, was there in any place more equality than in this. Strangers who come at this time of day at once enter the family circle. This was the case with us. Mr. McFarlain told us much about his farm and the misfortunes with which he struggled when he first cultivated the place upon which he now lives. He has lived here 30 years, a circumstance which is here very unusual, because the adventure loving nature, together with the wish to better their condition and the opportunity, has led many people to wander from place to place. * * * The next morning when we came down we found the old farmer sitting on the porch reading a paper. Upon the table lay "Morse's Geography," "The Beauty of the Stars," "The Vicar of Wakefield," and other good books. I have entered into particulars in my description of this family because we were then only five miles from the home of Gallatin, where the people are too often represented as rough, uncultured, good-for-nothings. It is not necessary to mention that all fam- ilies here are not as this, yet it is something to find a family such as this, living on this side of the mountains, 300 miles from the sea coast. We called upon Mr. Gallatin, but did not find him at home. Geneva is a little place, but lately settled, at the junction of George creek and the Monongahela. From here we went to Uniontown, the capital of Fayette county, where we saw excellent land and Redstone Creek. We dined the following day in Redstone or Brownsville: journeyed to Washington, .the capital of the county of the same name, and arrived the following day in Pittsburg. Boats are going back and forth; even now one is coming, laden .with hides from Illinois. The people on board are wearing clothes made of woolen bed blankets. They are laughing and singing after the manner of the French, yet as red as In- dians, and almost the antipodes of their fatherland. * * * 5. LETTER OF SAMUEL ALLEN, AN EMIGRANT FROM NEW ENGLAND (1796). An old letter written in 1796 by Samuel Allen on the Ohio river at Belleville, near Parkersburg, to his father in Connecticut, de- scribing a journey from Alexandria and Cumberland to the Ohio by way of "broadaggs (Braddock's) old road," gives a picture of certain of the more pathetic phases of the typical emigrant's experience un- equaled by any published account. Incidentally, there is included a mention of the condition of the road and, what is of more interest, a clear glimpse into the Ohio valley when the great rush of pioneers had begun after the signing of the Treaty of Greenville, which ended the Indian war. Belleville, Va., November the 15th, 1796. Honored Parents: Six months is allmost gone since I left N. London (New London, Connecticut) & not a word have I heard from you or any of the family I have not heard wheather you are dead or alive, sick or well. When I heard that Mr. Backus had got home I was in hopes of recieving a letter by him. but his brother was here the other day and sayes that he left his trunk and left the letters that he had in the trunk, so I am still in hopes of having one yet. There is an opertunity of sending letters once every week only lodge a letter in the post-offis in N. London & in a short time it will be at Belleville. The people that came with me has most all had letters from their friends in New England. Mr. Avory has had two or three letters from his Brother one in fiften dayes after date all of whitch came by the waye of the male. General Putnam of Muskingdom (Marietta on the Muskingum) takes the New London papers constantly every week When we arrived to Allexandria (Alexandria, Virginia) Mr. Avory found that taking land cariag from there to the Monongehaly would be less expence then it would be to go any farther up the Potomac & less danger so he hired wagoners to carry the goods across the mountains to Mogantown on the Mongahaly about one hundred miles above Pittsburg Mr. Avorys expence in comeing was from N London to Alexndria six dollars each for the passengers and two shillings & six pence for each hundred weight, from Allexandria to Morgantown was thirty two shillings and six pence for each hundred weight of women & goods the men all walked the hole of the way. I walked the hole distance it being allmost three hundred miles and we found the rode to be pritty good untill we came to the Mountaing. crossing the blue Mountain the Monongehaly & the Lorral Mountains we found the roads to be verry bad. You doubtless remember I rote in my last letter that Prentice was taken ill a day or two before he continued verry much so untill the 10th of July when he began to gro wors the waggoner was hired by the hundred weight & could not stop unless I paid him for the time that tie stopcd & for the Keeping of the horses that I could not afford to do So we were obliged to keep on We were now on the Allegany Mountain & a most horrid rode the wagon golted so that I dare not let him ride So I took him in my arms and carried him all the while except once in a while Mr Davis would take him in his armes & carry him a spell to rest me. a young man that Mr Avory hired at Allexandria a joiner whose kindness- I shall not forgit he kep all the while with us & spared no panes to assist us in anything & often he would offer himself, our child at this time was verry sick & no medecal assistance could be had on this mountain on the morning of the 13th as we was at breackfast at the house of one Mr Tumblestone (Tomlinson?) the child was taken in a fit our company had gone to the next house to take breakfast which was one mile on our way we were alone in the room & went. & asked Mrs Tumblestone to come into the room she said she did not love to see a person in a fitt but she came into the room Polly ask her if she new what was good for a child in a fitt she said no & immediately left the room & shut the door after her & came no more into the room when that fitt left him there came on another no person in the room but Mr Tumblestone who took but little notis of the child tho it was in great distress Polly said she was afraid the child would die in one of them fitts Mr. Tumblestone spoke in a verry lite manner and sayes with a smile it will save you the trouble of carrying it any farther if it does die We then bundled up the child and walked to the next house ware we come up with our company I had just seated myself down when the child was taken in a fitt again when that had left it it was immediately taken in another & as that went off we saw another coming on the Man of the house gave it some drops that stoped the fitt he handed me a vial of the dropps-gave directions how to use them the child had no more fitts but seemed to be stuped all day he cried none at all but he kept a whinning & scouling all the while with his eyes stared wide open his face and his eyes appeared not to come in shape as before When we took dinner it was six mile to the next house the waggoners said they could not git through thro that night we did not love to stay out for fear our child would die in the woods so we set off & left the waggons I took the child in my arms and we traveled on Mr Davis set off with us & carried the child above half of the time here we traveled up & down the most edious hills as I ever saw & by nine oclock in the evening we came to the house the child continued stayed all the night the next morning at break of day I heard it make a strange noise I percieved it grew worse I got up and called up the women (who) ware with us the woman of the house got up & in two hours the child dyed Polly was obliged to go rite off as soon as his eyes was closed for the waggoners would not stop I stayed to see the child hurried I then went on two of the men that was with me were joiners & had their tools with them they stayed with me & made the coffin Mr. Simkins (Simpkins) the man of the house sent his Negoes out & dug the grave whare he had hurried several strangers that dyed a crossing the mountain he family all followed the corps to the grave black & white & appeared much affected. When we returned to the house I asked Mr. Simkins to give me his name & the name of the place he asked me the name of the child I told him he took his pen & ink & rote the following lines Alligany County Marriland July the 14th 1796 died John P Allen at the house of John Simkins at atherwayes bear camplain broadaggs old road half way between fort Cumberland & Uniontown. I thanked him for the kindness I had received from him he said I was verry welcome & he was verry sorry for my loss We then proceeded on our journey & we soon overtook the waggons & that nite we got to the foot of the mountain We came to this mountain on the llth of the month and got over it the 19th at night We left the city of Allexandria on the Potomac the 30th day of June & arrived at Morgantown on the Monongahely the 18th day of July Thus my dear pearents you see we are deprived of the child we brought with us & we no not whather the one we left is dead or alive. I beg you to rite & let me no Polly cant bear her name mentioned without shedding tears if she is alive I hope you will spare no panes to give her learning. When we arrived at Morgantown the river was so lo that boats could not go down but it began to rain the same day that I got there I was about one mile from there when it began to rain & from the 22d at night to the 23d in the morning it raised 16 feet the logs came down the river so that it was dangerous for boats to go & on Sunday the 22d in the evening the boats set off three waggons had not arrived but the river was loreing so fast that we dare not wate the goods was left with a Merchant in that town to be sent, when the river rises they have not come on yet one of my barrels & the brass Cittle is yet behind Mr Avory said while he was at Morgantown that Cattle were verry high down the river & them .that wanted to by he thought had better by then he purchased some & I bought two cows and three calvs for myself & three cows for Mrs. Hem- sted & calves & a yoke of three year old stears. The next morning after the Boats sailed I set off by land with the cattle & horses with John Turner & Jonathan Prentice & arrived at Bellvill the 9th of August & found it to be a verry rich & pleasant country We came to the Ohio at Wheeling crick one hundred miles belo Pittsburg & about the same from Morgantown We found the country settled the hole of the way from Morgantown to Wheeling & a verry pleasant road we saw some verry large & beautiful plantations here I saw richer land than I every saw before large fields of corn & grane of a stout groath From Wheeling to Belleville it is a wilderness for the most of the way except the banks of the river this side- which is one hundred miles we found it verry difficult to get victules to eat. I drove fifty miles with one meal of victules through the wilderness & only a foot path & that was so blind that we was pestered to keep it we could drive but a little wayes in a day whenever night overtook us we would take our blankets & wrap around us & ly down on the ground We found some inhabitance along the river but they came on last spring & had no provisions only what they brought with them. The country is as good as it was represented to be & is seteling verry fast families are continually moveing from other parts into this beautiful country if you would give me all your intrest to bo gack there to live again it would be no temtation if you should sell your intrest there & lay your money out here in a short time I think you would be worth three or four times so much as you now are. it is incredible to tell the number of boats that goes down this river with familys a man that lives at Redstone Old fort on the Monongehaly says that he saw last spring seventy Boats go past in one day with familys moveing down the Ohio. There is now at this place a number of familys that came since we did from Susquehanah There is now at this place eighty inhabitance. Corn is going at 2.s pr bushel by the quantity 2.s 6-d by the single bushel. There has been between two & three thousand bushels raised in Bellville this season & all the settlements along the river as raised corn in proportion but the vast number of people that are moveing into this country & depending upon bying makes it scerce & much higher than it would be There is three double the people that passes by here then there is by your house there is Packets that passes from Pittsburg to Kentucky one from Pittsburg to Wheeling 90 miles one from that to Muskingdom 90 miles One from that to Galli- polees 90 miles the french settlement opisite the big Canawa (Kanawha) & from that there is another to Kentucky-of which goes & returns every week &-loaded with passengers & they carry the male Mammy offered me some cloath for a Jacket & if you would send it by Mr Woodward it would be very exceptible for cloaths is verry high here Common flanel is 6s per yard & tow cloth is 3s 9d the woolves are so thick that sheep cannot be kept without a shephard they often catch our caivs they have got one of mine & one of Mrs Hemstid the latter they caught in the field near the houses I have often ben awoak out of my sleep by the howling of the wolves. This is a fine place for Eunice they ask Is per yard for weaving tow cloth give my respects to Betsey & Eunice & tell them that I hope one of them will come with Mr. Woodward when he comes on Horses are very high in this country & if you have not sold mine I should be (glad) if you would try to send him on by Mr Woodward. I dont think Mr Avory will be there this year or two & anything you would wish to send you nead not be affrid to trust to Mr. Woodwards hands for he is a verry careful & a verry honest man & what he says you may depend upon. Land is rising very fast Mr Avory is selling his lots at 36 dollars apeace he has sold three since we came here at that price we was so long a comeing & pro- visions so verry high that I had not any money left when I got here except what I paid for the cattle I bought I have worked for Mr Avory since I came here to the amount of sixteen dollars I paid him 80 dollars before we left N London I am not in debt to him at preasent or any one else I have sot me up a small house and have lived in it upwards of a fortnight we can sell all our milk and butter milk at 2d per quart Mr Avory will give me three shillings per day for work all winter & find (furnish) we with victules or 4s & find myself I need not want for business I think I am worth more than I was when I came We have ben in verry good health ever since we left home. General St. Clair who is now govenor of the western teritoryes & General Wilkinson with their Adicongs (Aide-de-camps) attended by a band of soldiers in uniform lodged at Bellvill a few nights ago on their way from. headquarters to Philadelphia with Amaracan coulours a flying Please to give my respects to George & James & tell them that if they want an interest this is the country for them to go to make it Please to except of my kind love to yourselves & respects to all friends who may enquire do give my love to Mr. Rogers & family & all my brothers and sisters & our only child Lydia Polly sends her love to you & all her old friends & neighbors Your affectionate son Samuel Allen 6. EXTRACTS FROM THE AMERICAN GAZETTEER (1797). In 1797 The American Gazetteer was published in Boston by Jedidiah Morse. It was a volume of about 900 pages with several maps, and dealt with the ge- ography of "North America and the West Indies." It contains the following information in regard to towns of western Virginia: Clarksburg, the chief town of Harrison County, Virginia. It contains about 40 houses, a court house and jail. It stands on east side of Monongahela river, 40 miles S.W. of Morgantown. Frankfort, the capital of Pendleton County, Virginia, is situated on the west side of the South Branch of the Potowmack river. It contains a court house, jail and about 30 houses; 180 miles N.W. of Richmond. Martinsburg, a post town of Virginia and capital of Berkeley County, situated about 8 miles south of the Potowmac, in the midst of a fertile and well cultivated country, and 25 miles from the Mineral Springs at Bath. It contains upwards of 70 houses, a court house, jail, Episcopal church, and contiguous to the town is one for Presbyterians. Moorefields, a post town and the capital of Hardy County, Virginia, situated on the oast side of the South Branch of the Potowmac river. It contains a court house and jail, and between 60 and 70 houses. It is 180 miles from Richmond. Morgantown, a post town of Virginia, and shre-town of Mongalia County, is pleasantly situated on the east side of Monongahela river about 7 miles S. by W. of the mouth of Cheat river, and contains a court house, a stone jail and about 40 houses. Romney, the chief town of Hampshire County, Virginia, contains about 70 dwelling houses, a brick court house and a stone jail. The chief town is Lewisburg. At Green Briar court house is a post office, 30 miles W. by S. of Sweet Springs, and 103 west of Staunton. Shepherdstown or Shepherdsburg, a post town of Virginia, situated in Berkeley County, on south side of Potowmack river. Its situation is healthful and agreeable and the neighboring country is fertile and well cultivated. It contains about 2000 inhabitants, mostly of German extraction. West Liberty, a post town of Virginia, and the capital of Ohio county, is situ- ated at the head of Short creek, 6 miles from the Ohio. It contains about 120 houses, a Presbyterian church, a court house and jail. 7. DESCRIPTION OF A TRIP BY FELIX RENICK (1798). Felix Renick has left the following description of his experience on a trip from the South Branch via Clarksburg to Marietta in 1798, and especially gives a vivid picture of the earliest sort of taverns on the route: Some of our neighbors who had served in Dunmore's campaign in 1774, gave accounts of the great beauty and fertility of the western country, and particularly the Scioto valley, which inspired me with a desire to explore it as early as I could make it convenient. I accordingly set out from the south branch of Potomac for that purpose, I think about the first of October, 1798, in company with two friends, Joseph Harness and Leonard Stump, both of whom have long since gone hence. We took with us what provisions we could conveniently carry, and a good rifle to pro- cure more when necessary and further prepared ourselves to camp wherever night overtook us. Having a long journey before us, we traveled slow, and reached Clarksburg the third night, which was then near the verge of the western settle- ments in Virginia, except along the Ohio river. Among our first inquiries of our apparently good, honest, illiterate landlord, was whether he could tell us how far it was to Marietta (Ohio), and what kind of trace we should have? His reply was, "O yes, I can do that very thing exactly, as I have been recently appointed one of the viewers to lay out and mark a road from here to Marietta, and have just returned from the performance of that duty. The distance on a straight line which we first run was seventy-five miles, but on our return we found and marked another line that was much nearer." This theory to Mr. Harness and myself, each of us having spent several years in the study and practice of surveying, was entirely new: we however let it pass without comment, and our old host, to his great delight, enter- tained us till late in the evening with a detailed account of the fine sport he and his associates had in their bear chases, deer chases, &c., while locating the road. We pursued our journey next morning, taking what our host called the nearest, and which he also said was much the best route. The marks on both routes being fresh and plain, the crooked and nearest route, as bur host called it, frequently crossing the other, we took particular notice of the ground the straight line had to pass over, and after getting through we were disposed to believe that our worthy host was not so far wrong as might be supposed. The straight line crossing such high peaks of mountains, some of which were so much in the sugarloaf form, that it would be quite as near to go round as over them. The first night after leaving the settlement at Clarksburgh, we camped in the woods; the next morning while our horses were grazing, we drew on our wallets and saddlebags for a snack, that we intended should pass for our breakfast, and set out. We had not traveled far before we unexpectedly came to a new improvement. A man had gone there in the spring, cleared a small field and raised a patch of corn, &c., staying in a camp through the summer to watch it to prevent its being destroyed by the wild animals. He had, a few days before we came along, called on some of his near neighbors on the Ohio, not much more perhaps than thirty miles off, who had kindly came forth and assisted him in putting up a cabin of pretty ample size, into which he had moved bag and baggage. He had also fixed up a rock and trough, and exposed a clapboard to view, with some black marks on it made with a coal, indicating that he was ready and willing to accommodate those who pleased to favor him with a call. Seeing these things, and although we did not in reality need any thing in his way, Mr. Harness insisted on our giving him a call, observing that any man that would settle down in such a wilderness to accommodate travelers ought to 1)e encouraged. We accordingly rode up and called for breakfast, horse feed &c. Then let me say that as our host had just put the ball in motion was destitute of any helpmate whatever, (except a dog or two,) we had of course to officiate in all the various departments appertaining to a hotel, from the landlord down to the shoeblack on the one side, and from the landlady down to the dishwash on the other. The first department in which he had to officiate was that of the hostler, next that of the bar keeper, as it was then customary, whether called for or not, to set out a half pint of something to drink. The next which he fell at with much alacrity, was that of the cook, by commencing with rolled up sleeves and unwashed hands and arms, that looked about as black and dirty as the bears' paws which lay at the cabin door, part of whose flesh was the most considerable item in our breakfast fare. The first operation was the mixing up some pounded corn meal dough in a little black dirty trough, to which the cleaner, and perhaps as he ap- peared to think him, the better half of himself, his dog, had free access before he was fairly done with it, and that I presume was the only kind of cleaning it ever got. While the dodgers were baking, the bear meat was frying, and what he called coffee was also making, which was composed of an article that grew some hundred or one thousand miles north of where the coffee tree ever did grow. Yon now have the bill of fare that we sat down to, and the manner in which it was prepared; but you must guess how much of it we ate, and how long we were at it. As soon as we were done we called for our bill, and here follows the items: breakfast fifty cents each, horses twenty-five each, half pint of whisky fifty cents. Mr. Harness, who had prevailed on us to stop, often heard of the wilderness hotel, and whenever mentioned, he always had some term of reproach ready to apply to the host and the dirty breakfast, though we often afterwards met with fare somewhat similar in all respects. We camped two nights in the woods, the next day got to Marietta where the land office was then kept by general Putnam, and from his office we obtained maps of the different sections of country we wished to explore. 8. EXTRACTS FROM DIARY OF ISAAC VAN METER (1801). Isaac Van Meter, of Hampshire county, Virginia, now Hardy county, West Virginia, was one of the leading men of western Virginia during and after the Revolutionary war. He was a member of the Virginia convention which ratified the United States constitution. In 1801 he made a tour through the western country. He kept a record of that journey in the diary that follows, which was discovered and copied in 1897 by Hu Maxwell while collecting material for a history of Hampshire county. Thursday, April 16, 1801: Started from home in company with George Har- ness, L. Branson and John Miller. Lodged at Mr. Harvey's. Saturday, April 18:-Crossed Cheat river which is about the size of the South Branch, or perhaps larger; hills remarkably high on both sides. Sunday, April 19:-Breakfasted at Daniel Davison's in Clarksburg and waited until after dinner. Clarksburg has a tolerable appearance on Main street, with an academy on an elevated piece of ground near the town. We were informed that nearly fifty children are generally taught there. The court house is on one side of the street and the jail on the other, near the center. Left Clarksburg and lay at Mr. Clayton's fifteen miles distant. The face of the country is very rough, but some small strips of bottom well adopted for meadow. Monday, April 20:-Down middle Island creek fourteen miles in which distance we crossed it seventeen times. A rough hilly country and poor. Tuesday, April 21:-We passed through a very rough, hilly country; following a dividing ridge ten miles until we came within twelve miles of the mouth of the Muskingum. Turned to the right and fell on the Ohio (which I had for many years wished to see) at the mouth of Bull run. Above the mouth is a fine bottom belonging to Cresap 's heirs. Back of the tract is an extraordinary body of rich upland for two miles, and completely timbered. We went down the Ohio to Isaac Villers', opposite the mount of the Muskingnm. Wednesday April 22:-We went down the Ohio twelve miles to the mouth of the Little Kanawha. Below Williams' improvement lies a very handsome bottom, and for eight miles small improvements going on. Then came to a very well im- proved body of land laid off by Dr. Spencer into fifty acre lots and a small town called Vienna. Tuesday, April 28:-This day we passed an Indian camp where I was introduced to John VanMeter, who was taken prisoner when a child and is so accustomed to the Indian habits that his friends cannot prevail on him to leave them. Tuesday, May 26:-Fed at Carmichael's Town on Muddy creek and viewed a mill on Whiteley creek, where the race has been blown through solid rock underground nine poles, and opens three poles above the pierhead. The land from here to the Monongahela at Greenburg is fertile. We crossed to Geneva near the glass works and lodged at Mr. Crawford's. Wednesday, May 27:-We crossed Laurel hill, and at the foot of this side took a right hand road and struck for the Crab Orchard, and lodged at Mr. Child's. 9. EXTRACTS FROM THOMAS ASHE'S "TRAVELS IN AMERICA" (1806). The following extracts, representing an Englishman's impression of Wheeling in 1806, appeared in a book entitled "Travels in America," written by Thomas Ashe, Esq. Wheeling, Virginia, April, 1806 The town of Wheeling is well known as one of the most considerable places of embarkation to traders and emigrants, on the western waters. It is a port-town, healthfully and pleasantly situated on a very high bank of the river, and is increas- ing rapidly. Here quantities of merchandise designed for the Ohio country, and the Upper Louisiana, are brought in wagons during the dry seasons; as boats can frequently go from hence, when they cannot from places higher up the river. Be- sides, as the navigation above Wheeling is more dangerous than all the remainder of the river, persons should undoubtedly give it the preference to Pittsburg. The distance by .water to Pittsburg is eighty-two miles; by land only forty-five by a good road. A coach runs from Philadelphia also, to this town, for thirty dollars each passenger; and the wagons which daily arrive charge little more per cent. than the Pittsburg price. On the whole, I give this place a decided preference, and prognosticate that it will ultimately injure and rival all the towns above its waters. The town is formed of about two hundred and fifty houses; ten of which arc built of brick, eighteen of stone, and the remainder of logs. * * * This plain, although one hundred feet above low water, was originally formed by the river subsiding; and there is a narrower place, or what is here called bottom, immediately flowing from the hills which also was under water; but by the growth of its timber, and superior height, its submergement must have been at a much more remote period than that of the plain on which the town is built. A part of the latter is now a very small but excellent race ground. The original settlers were not calculated to give importance to an infant estab- lishment. Had they done so, had they attended to worthy commercial pursuits, and industrious and moral dealings, in place of rapine on Indian property, drunkenness, horse-racing and cock-fighting, their town would have rivalled Pittsburg long since, and have now enjoyed a respectable name. This part of Virginia was, at no very remote period, deemed the frontier, not only of Virginia, but of America. To this frontier all persons outlawed, or escaping from Justice, fled, and resided without the apprehension of punishment or the dread of contempt and reproach. They formed a species of nefarious republic, where equality of crime constituted a social band, which might to this day have remained unbroken, but for the effects of the conclusion of the Indian war, which extended the frontier across the river nearly to the Canadian line, leaving the ancient boun- dary within the jurisdiction of government and under the immediate grasp of the law. Those who fled from the restraints of moral and political obligations, were exasperated at this unforseen event, and felt hurt that a better sort of people came among them. The consequence previously assumed by thieves and swindlers, fled the presence of morals and justice. Such as were determined not to submit to an improvement of life, and a daily comparison of character, left the country; while others, who "repented of their ways," remained, and are now blended with the better order of citizens. Of these materials, the society of this town is now formed. But I have it from the good authority of a quaker of high respectability that the old settlers will all be brought out in time, and the place become new and regener- ated. He founds his hopes on the belief that his friends when backed by others of their profession, to settle in the town, will gain an ascendancy in the municipel affairs; abolish cock-fighting, horse-racing, fighting, drinking, gambling, etc., and above all, enforce the observance of the Sabbath and other solemn days. * * * My acquaintance with the place convinces me that much time and unremitted assiduity must be employed to make it a tolerable residence for any class of men, much less a society of quakers. The majority of the present inhabitants have no means whatever of distinguishing Sunday, but by a greater degree of violence and debauchery than the affairs of ordinary days will allow them to manifest. Even on occasion of business, the smallest occurrence will draw them from it, and expose it to total negligence. Yesterday two fellows drinking in a public house, the conversation turned on the merit of their horses-two wretched animals they had ridden into town that morning, and which had remained fasting at a. post. A wager, the consequence of every argument on this side of the mountains, was made, and the poor brutes were galloped off to the race-course. Two-thirds of the population followed;-black- smiths, shipwrights, all left work; the town appeared a desert. The stores were shut. I asked a proprietor why the warehouses did not remain open. He told me all good was done for that day; that the people might remain on the ground till night, and many stay till the following morning. I was determined to see this Virginia recreation, which caused such an abandonment of care and business. On my arrival on the ground, the original race had been won, and the price of a saddle was collecting to excite another course, and raise new opponents. This was soon effected; the course was cleared, and six poor devils were started for the saddle, and numerous bets laid by the owners and spectators. The number of persons inter- ested in this affair, and some disputed points which occurred in the adjustment of it, gave rise to a variety of opinion, umpires were called in; their judgment was rejected, and a kind of general battle ensued. This affray over, the quarrel took a smaller circle, confined to two individuals, a Virginian by birth, and a Kentuckian by adoption. A ring was formed and the mob demanded whether they proposed to fight fair or to rough and tumble. The latter mode was preferred. * * * Bulk and bone were in favor of the Kentuckian; science and craft in that of the Vir- ginian. The former promised himself victory from his power, the latter from his science. * * * The shock received by the Kentuckian and the want of breath brought him instantly to the ground. * * * The Kentuckian at length gave out, on which the people carried off the victor, and he preferring a triumph to a doctor, who come to cicatrize his face, suffered himself to be chaired round the ground as the champion of the times, and the first rough and tumbler. * * * This spectacle ended, and the citizens, refreshed with whiskey and biscuit, sold on the ground, the races were renewed, and possibly other editions of the monstrous history I have just recited; but I had had sufficient of the sports of the day, and returned to my quaker frend, with whom I had engaged to take my dinner. He was afflicted, but by no means surprised at the news I brought him, and informed me farther that such doings were common, frequently two or three times a week; and that twice a" year, or at the spring and fall races, they continued for fourteen days without interruption, aided by the licentious and profligate of the neighboring- states. * * * It seems the storekeepers and the principal citizens, seeing the people had no intention of returning to their avocations, had resolved to amuse themselves, and associated for the purpose of having a ball and supper at the principal inn. On my arrival, the landlord, with much politeness, told me that my quality of stranger and a gentleman gave me title to enter the public room. * * * I entered the ball room, which was filled with persons at cards, drinking, dancing, etc. The music consisted of two bangles, played by negroes, nearly in a state of nudity, and a lute, through which a Chickesaw breathed with much occa- sional exertion and violent gesticulation. The dancing accorded with the harmoney of these instruments. The clamor of the card tables was so great that it almost drowned every other, and the music of Ethiopia was with difficulty heard. * * * There is a very beautiful island directly opposite Wheeling, to which there is a ferry, and another ferry from the island to the Ohio shore, where commences a road leading to Chilicothe, and the interior of the State of which that town is the capital. The road for the most part is mountainous and swampy, notwithstanding which a mail coach is established on it, from Philadelphia to Lexington in Ken- tucky, through Pittsburgh, Wheeling and Chilicothe, a distance of upwards of seven hundred miles, to be performed by contract in fifteen days. Small inns are to be found every ten, or twelve miles of the route. They are generally log huts of one apartment, and the entertainment consists of bacon, whiskey, and Indian bread. Let those who despise this bill of fare remember that seven years since this road was called the Wilderness, and travellers had to encamp, find their own provisions, and with great difficulty secure their horses from panthers and wolves. At Marietta, while describing the more orderly habits of that town, he again took occasion to refer to the lawlessness of Wheeling: Marietta is also a port town, issues a weekly paper, and possesses an academy, court-house, prison, and church. The latter edifice is the only one of the kind be- tween this and Pittsburg: a distance of one hundred and eighty-one miles. If justice be impotent on the opposite Virginia shore, and morals and laws be trampled upon and despised, here they are strengthened by authority; and upheld, respected, and supported by all ranks. The New-England regulations of church and magistracy are all introduced and acted on to the full extent-to a point bordering on an arbi- trary exaction. Every family, having children or not, must pay a certain annual sum for the support of a public school; every person, whether religious or otherwise, must pay a fixed sum towards the maintenance of a minister of divine worship and all persons must pay a rigid respect, and a decided observance to the moral and religious ordinance of the sabbath. In consequence never was a town more orderly or quiet. No mobs, no fighting, no racing, no rough and tumbling, or anything to be observed but industry, and persevering application to individual views. The Vir- ginians who at times visit the town, remain for a short period, and return to their own shores astonished at the municipal phenomena they witnessed, and wondering how man could think of imposing on himself such restraints. Mr. Ashe gives the following description of Wellsburg (then called Charlestown), which he visited before he reached Wheeling: Chariestown is finely situated on the Virginia side, at the junction of Buffaloe creek and the Ohio. It is a flourishing place, commanding the trade of the sur- rounding rich settlement; and have many excellent mills, is much resorted to by purchasers of flour. The boats can be purchased at the Pittsburg price, and articles of provision on very reasonble terms. The town, which contains about one hundred and fifty houses was originally well laid out with the best row facing the river, and the intermediate space answered the purpose of a street esplanade and water terrace, giving an air of health and cheerfulness gratifying to the inhabitants, and highly pleasing to those de- scending the stream. However, owing to the avarice of the proprietor of the ter- race, and a disgraceful absence of judgment and taste, he has sold his title to the water side, and the purchasers are now building on it; turning the back of their houses immediately close to the edge of the bank, and excluding all manner of view - and communication from the best of the town. This violation of taste, it seems, is not to go unpunished. The bank is undermining fast, and in a very few years, these obtruding edifices must fall unless removed. This vice of building to the high water mark is not peculiar to Charlestown; Philadelphia set the example. 10. JOURNAL (OR DIARY) OF LEWIS SUMMERS (1808). Settlements in the Kanawha valley advanced steadily after 1790-and especially after 1800. From 1790 to 1810 a tide of Virginia emigration flowed westward into Kentucky. Many traversed the route via the Kanawha to Scary creek and thence through Teay's valley and via the Kentucky ford across Mud river. Others found homes along the Kanawha. A glimpse of conditions in the wilderness along this route in 1808 (1) may be obtained from the following extracts from a journal or diary writ- ten by Lewis Summers on a tour from Alexandria to Gallipolis, Ohio, and up the valley of the Ohio in that year in search of a desirable loca- tion for his father, Col. George Summers: 29th Tuesday-June 1808 Got to Callahan's tavern where I staid all night; 10 miles, making 24 miles this day. Callahan's is situated at the forks of the road leading to Tennessee by the way of Fincastle, Knoxville etc., the left [right] to Kentucky by the way of Kanawa. Here I struck the road opened by the state from the upper navigation of James River to the upper navigation of Kanawa. Wednesday 29-June 1808 Left Callahan's and crossed the Allegany mountains to the Sulphur Springs, leaving the Sweet Springs 20 miles to the left. The Allegany is by no means as difficult to pass at this place as the Blue Ridge. The springs are 11 miles from Callahan's in Greenbrier County and west of the Allegany. The water is cold, but very strongly impregnated with sulphur. The wooden trough conveying the water from the spring is covered with sulphur deposited from the water. The taste is to me very disagreeable and the scent as strong as the washings from a gun. From these springs I went on 6 miles to Greenbrier river a branch of the Kanawa, about 200 yards wide where I forded, but not deep. Three miles to Lewis Burgh where I fed and rested myself. This is a small little village about as big as Centre- ville; It is the County Town of Greenbrier. Tavern kept by Tyree; pretty good house. The state road this far pretty good. Stock almost the only trade of this Country. Salt 15s and 18s pr. bushel. After dining and feeding at Lewis Burgh rode 8 miles to Piercy's having travelled 32 miles this day. Great contention as to the route this road shall go. Major Rinnox and Greenbrier Court have ordered the route adopted by the state, to be changed, carrying it 2 miles further, to ac- commodate the Boyer brothers, and an appeal taken by the opposing party. Thursday 30 Left Piercy's and traveled 34 miles to New River. This is the main branch of Kanawa, about 50 yards wide at the ferry, and 30 feet deep at low water, but is not navigable owing to the many rapids and falls. About 10 miles from Lewis Burgh the route that the upper Kanawa people so long contended for turns off. It goes by the way of Peter's Creek is said to be further, passing over worse ground, and no accommodation to be had, being thirty-five miles of the way without houses, crossing Sewall and Gauley mountains and Gauly river. The road I came is exceedingly mountainous. Sewall mountain 6 miles over, very steep and rocky, but the worst part of the road I have seen are the cliffs at New river. The east cliff a mile descending, and the west 1/2 miles ascending. They are too steep and rough to be passed on horseback. I walked nearly all the way over them. This evening saw several turkeys and a large bear. Friday 1 July Left New river and travelled over a rough road to Jinkin's mountain which I suppose is a continuation of Gauly. It is rough stony and steep. Hands are at work here and at the cliffs repairing the road under the appropriation of last year. Struck the Kenawa at Hooff's Ferry 1/2 mile below the falls. Falls 22 feet. This ferry is 17 miles from New river. Travelled 8 miles down the river; but little bot- tom, and this eight miles as well as the country to near L. B. (Lewisburg) is ap- parently poor. Nothing but cabins and small patches of corn, the people depend- ing chiefly on hunting. From Morriss' to Jones' 4 miles and 12 from the falls, the bottoms widen.-farms larger and houses out houses orchards and., comfortable. Greenbrier iron 9d, and Ohio iron-; good cotton raised here. Drovers and trav- ellers take nearly all the surplus grain. Wolves and bears destroy the sheep and hogs. On crossing New river. I entered Giles, which is divided from Kanawa by Jenkin's mountain. Travelled 29 miles this day. Corn generally between 6 and seven feet high. Saturday 2nd July- Discovered my horse to be foundered. Left Jones' crossing the river and traveling down on the north side to Ruffner's salt works. They are 26 miles below the falls,-six miles above Charlestown (Kanawa C. H.) and 66 from the Point. They are just commencing the manufacture of salt,-have but 64 kettles. The water is obtained from a well, which was sunk near the margin of the river, and the water received into the well through a hole bored in through a rock of near 20 feet thick at the bottom of the well. The covering for the kettles and furnaces are quite temporary, as indeed are all parts of the establishment. The water produces a bushel of salt for every 200 Gal's. The works at Sandy take 240 to the Bushell. The farms from the works to K. C. H. increase in size as you descend the river, the bottoms growing wider and the hills less steep and high. Mr. Rufner informs me that Dr. Craik's bottom opposite Pokatalico is the finest land he ever saw, the back line including no hills but just running at their foot, the bottom in parts a mile wide, and as level, even and fertile as he ever saw. He thinks this land worth 4$ through, but I find he wishes to purchase. He says no 1,000 acres co'ld be got together worth 7$50, but thinks some of the lots singly worth it. Mr. Donelson the clerk estimates the best of Craik's bottom at 12$ Washington's heirs begin five miles below Elk;-2400 acres 5 or-river-prin- cipally bottom-from Coal up four miles-Washington's heirs-Pokatalico down 12 miles, same-6700 acres-bottom narrow for 7 miles-widens at Red house shoals; below this place excellent bottom. Got to Kenawa C. H. this ev'g. Trav'd 20 miles-horse lame and unable to proceed-drenched him with a pint of salt dissolved in a halfpint whiskey. Sunday 3rd. Horse still unable to travel-bathed him with a decoction of smart weed, soft soap and vinegar, and applied the weed to his back. Monday, 4th July. Horse still lame and unable to travel; took off a shoe; appears to be gravelled; cleared the wound and filled it with hot tar and nailed leather over it. This day was celebrated here by the Gentlemen and ladies of the neighbourhood, about 20 of each. The dancing commenced at 12 o'cl'k; dined about 3, and con- tinued dancing etc., until after 12. The ladies were generally hansome; danced with great ease if not with elegance. The Gentl'n friendly in the extreme. The time was spent in the greatest harmony and sociability, no ceremonial rules im- pending a full enjoym 't of the ocasion; each, both male and female vying in producing the greatest quantity of satisfaction. The Gentl'n and their families of most note who attended were Mr. Reynolds and family, Mr. David and Jos. Ruffner and family, Mr. Buster and family, Col. Donalson the Clerk and family, Mr. Sparks and his family; some fine girls from Teaze's Valley. Note: Promised to write to D. Ruffner the acc't of my journey home. Tuesday, 5th- Hard rain this morning; ladies detained in town and dancing cont'd until 12 o'cl'k, when rain abated. My horse still very lame, with a bad cough. * * * Mr. Reynolds proposed a swap. Buster and McKee determined the swap should be even. I disagreed, but after trying Reynolds' horse, made the exchange. Got a bay horse fifteen hands 4 inches high, well made before, but bad behind. Extremely well gaited; raised by Chancellor Stewart of Staunton; in high repute in this neighborhood, and assured not to exceed eight years old this spring. The old grey was so stiffened with riding that I feared from his age, cough and lameness, he would never be well again. Left Charlestown and got to Blake's in the Military Bottom owned by Fry, Hogg and Savage etc. This land's beginning is 4 miles above the mouth of Coal, and runs down to Pocatoalico. There is a great deal of good bottom, but all the inhabitants are squatters; it contains 21000 acres, and has about 200 cleared. Wednesday, 6th- Left Blake's and rode to Carruther's crossing the Kanawa at the mouth of Poky, which is twenty miles from Elk. Carruthers lives in a two story cabin, part of the first story daubed, the upper open. Breakfasted here on onions, milk and butter. This tract of Doctor Craik's begins at about two miles above the mouth of Poky, and extends down to 25 miles creek binding on the river 16 miles. The lower bottom on this tract I did not see having crossed the river below the Red House shoals in a canoe, swimming the horses; I am informed it is rather inferior to the upper part, having more breaks in it. There is but one tenant on it, named Honey cut; he has about 8 acres opened. Proceeded to Johnston's in Bronaugh's bottom, accompanied by Caruthers. Thursday 7th July- Examined G. W. Craik's land this day in company with Mr. W. Bronaugh and Mr. Caruthers. This land is part of a large tract owned by Mr. Jno. Bronaugh 1200 acres W. B. 1200 Col. Powell 1200 Mrs. Aldrich 1200 and G. W. C. 1200. It begins at Little Buffaloe and runs down to 18 mile creek. Mr. Craig's part from Buffaloe down about 1 1/2 miles is extremely narrow on the bottom, being about 40 poles at the head line, and gradually opening for the above distance at which it is about 100 poles wide. The ague and fever prevalent here in the fall. I am informed by Mr. Reynolds and others that there is a leading valley from Clarksburgh near the head of Little Kannaway and down Poky, and into the Kentucky road in Teaze's valley. This route I am told is level for this country and has been traveled and is by far the nearest route from that part of the country to Kentucky etc. Charles Town is en- tirely built of log houses, except one not yet finished; they are in a string along the river bank, a street passing between. Friday, 8th July. This morning I was induced to postpone my journey until another day. Mr. Hale and his family having returned from the Point where they had attended a barbecue and dance on the 4th July, who insisted on my spending a day with them and enjoying a Deer drive. Mr. Hale is brother to Mrs. Minor, his first wife sister to John Bronaugh, and his present to William, the Doctor, etc.; she is a fine agreeable woman. I meet here as good society as I co'ld find in Fairfax, tho' the circle is small. Saturday 9th July Left Johnston's and proceeded down the river. From 28 Mile creek, on which Mr. A's land binds, I saw scarcely any bottom worth having, until I got near the Point, the river running generally near the hills, and for a considerable part of the way not affording room for a road which now passes over the hills and on the ridges. The lands adjoining the Point are level and fine, but this little town seems to possess neither energy nor exertion. After feeding my horse I crossed into the Ohio State, and proceeded to Galli- polis, having heard that Mercer was about leaving this place for London; on my arrival found he had started to Chilocothe an hour before, to prosecute some thieves who had lately stolen the horses, and not expected back until Wednesday. In passing down the Kanawha I missed seeing the celebrated Burning Spring. It was the custom of the early stage drivers to make a stop here that all travelers might have an opportunity to view the then great curiosity. It is 2% miles above Rufner's salt works, and I did not know I had passed it until I got there; my horse was then too lame to return, and I was disappointed by rains and the ball from visiting it from Charles Town. Mr. Reynolds, Mr. McKee, Mssr Ruf- ners, Dr. Bronaugh etc. That the water is collected from the rains and is con- tained in a sunken spot, through the bottom of which there are several apertures through which pass continual currents of inflamable gass, which gives the water the appearance of a boiling spring. I am informed by Mr. McKee that about 20 miles up Great Sandy there is a current of this air discharged from the bottom of the river and which he has frequently set on fire. Salt from the Scioto works all brought by land to this place for $2 per barrell, which is the usual manner of getting it here. The works are 33 miles from this town, being on the road and half way between here and Chilocothe. The licks are owned by Congress and rented out. Turper and Fletcher's salt-works are 4 miles from this place. They have but one furnace in operation, containing about 75 kettles, and make between 60 and 70 bnshells of salt per week. The water is about the strength of the Scioto water, taking between 7 and 800 gallons to the bushell. The salt is of the quality of the inferior Scioto salt-water is owned by the Govern- ment; any person is permitted to sink a well and erect a furnace, on paying to Government 6 cents per gallon for the aggregate am't of their kettles per annum. There are 16 or 17 furnaces now in operation, generally averaging 65 bushells per week. Tuesday, 12th July. Spent this day in writing home, copying plats, etc., and in visiting some French families: Mr. Le Clere and Mr. Beauro, from whom I learned that in the fall of 1790 (19th Oct.) about 500 French arrived in this place having previously purchased of Col. Duer's agents in France. Thursday, 14th In comp'y with Col. Clendenin and Mr. Gray, a Gent. also wishing to pur- chase lands, devoted the day to the examination of Mercer's bottom. The Ohio side is pretty well filled with small settlements; bottoms narrow and not yet sold by the Government. At Gallipolis iron 10$ per Hund. 10° nails 16 cts., 8° 10 cts,- goods generally 100 per ct higher than in Baltimore. Castings, iron, stills, millstones, grindstones ete with almost everything useful or ornamental brought down in boats. Yesterday 4 large covered boats passed here. I went on board one loaded with store goods not open for Cincinnati. Two boats were moving families; one with millstones etc. Mr. Herriford came out in 22 days, having b't 52 souls and 3 wagon-loads of furniture, ete. in a boat 24 by 12. He has a good blacksmith, which is a great convenience to the country. He sends to the mills at the falls of Mud, 16 miles; generally sends a canoe and 20 bushells; a, good mill on Racoon, and Herriford is about commencing one. Good school at Gallipolis; board of scholars 1$ per week. Saturday, 16th July Took leave of Col. C. and other acquaintances at Gallipolis and proceeded to the Point to breakfast with Col. Lewis, who politely rode several miles up the river to put Mr. Gray and myself on the road. Gray is well pleased with Mercer's bottom, and wishes to get a situation at the Point for ship-building, but the whole property of that place has disputes of a serious nature attending the title. Got to Grayham's Station to dinner, 18 miles from the Point. Sunday 17th July After dinner took leave of Mr. Lewis and his family, and rode to Wood Court House, where we staid all night. Saw at this place an old man named Neal, who is from London, who with his son keeps a tavern and store. Monday, 18-July Rode to Dr. Joseph Spencer's; he lives on, and owns the farm called Vienna. This tract is equal to any I have seen on this river. It contains 1800 acres. Dr. Spencer offers 1000 acres of this land, which would have about 400 poles front, two good dwelling houses, kitchen, barns, cabins for tenants, etc. orchards, meadows, etc., in high order; price $10 per acre, half down, half 12 months. On this land are not more hills than are necessary to support the farm in timber. The reason it is now offered for sale is to enable the present owner to relieve a deed of trust on it. The Turners and Gills from Fairfax are tenants on this land to Doctor Spencer. The old Mr. Turner shed tears at parting, and walked with me a mile on the road to talk over the situation of all his old acquaintances. After viewing Dr. Spencer's farm and taking breakfast with him proceeded on. His farm is 4 miles from Wood Court House, and 8 from Marietta. Dined at William's tavern. Crossed over and took a view of Marietta and proceeded to Henderson's Quarter, 10 miles from Marietta. This farm contains 2,000 acres, about 200 in corn; expect to make 2000 barrells. They work 30 hands. Stock of hogs, cattle and horses fine. 19th, Tuesday (July) Rode to Middle Island Creek, 10 miles to breakfast; a rough road and hilly country. Six miles beyond this, passed Chimney bottom, in which I viewed an an- cient encampment. The trenches are square and contain ten acres. Got to Mr. Chs Wells to dinner. He is a very reputable old man, and has often represented this County (Ohio) in former times. Left Wells' and got to Friend Payton's six miles. He is a talkative old substantial farmer, his house, etc., was the dirtiest I had seen in my journey, which surprised me, as he and his family are all quakers. Wednesday, 20th (July) Rode to Mr. Dickinson's, 16 miles, to breakfast, crossing Fish Creek; from thence to Baker's to dinner, 10 miles. A fine shower of rain to-day, which impeded our journey. Two miles below Baker's passed the remains of an old block-house, near which a number of graves, affording a romantic appearance, being in the middle of the woods, and the graves neatly paled in I am told they are the graves of the malitia who were posted here, and fell fighting the Indians. Within half a mile of this place lives Michael Cressap. From Baker's rode 6 miles after the rain to Grave Creek, on the upper side of which is a town laid off on Tomlinson's lands called Mount Elizabeth. The houses are few and in a decaying state, except Tom- linson's which is of brick, not yet finished. Thursday, 21 (July) Bode 12 miles to Wheeling to breakfast. This town is respectable for its size and business-a small vessel on the stocks, and a number of all kinds of boats ready for purchasers wishing to descend the river. Tavernkeeper's name Knox; a very good house. At Grave Creek, Purdy's the best house. From Wheeling proceeded on to West Liberty, 12 miles passing Major McCulloch's, who was not at home, and the Short Creek meeting-house, which is in an unfurnished state. Detained here two hours by the rain. This is a pleasant little village, formerly the county town of Ohio before Brooke was taken off, since which it is rather on the decline. Here met with Capt. Birch from the city of Washington, on his way through Ohio, Ten- nisee, etc., looking out a situation to move to. From him I learned of the arrival of the Osage, and the fracas at Geo' Town on the 4th of July. After the rain rode to Mr. Robert Laurason'a (a brother-in-law). 3 miles. 22nd, Friday (July) At Mr. L. 's. His situation is comfortable; his dwelling-house of hewed logs, di- vided into two rooms. He has a thriving young orchard of both apples and peaches. This neighbourhood is as thickly settled as Fairfax; the inhabitants more on an equality and I think, more general wealth among them, though perhaps not held by individuals in as great a quantity. The Commission to arrange the State road through this County have lately been engaged in examining it. They are con- sidered as unjustifiably partial to the Wheeling route. The ground is said to be worse and the distance further than by Charlestown (Wellsburg) at the mouth of Short Creek. On the Wheeling route they are said to have spent nearly all their time meandering hills and exerting themselves to find a plausible pretext for report- ing in its favor and when on either of the other routes, have manifested such total indifference as to discover their prejudice ag't them; and great interest is making by McKinley and others with the President to counteract the effect of the report they make. Most of the Commissioners are s'd to have friends and re- lations on the Wheeling route. Saturday, Sunday and Monday- Weather rainy, and chiefly employed in tending to my horse. Sunday 31st, July- Rode Mr. Laurason's mare to Short Creek where Bishop Asbury preached and consecrated the new meeting-house; he roundly charged the members with too great a love of their worldly goods, and a want of zeal in not finishing the meeting-house; all of them, he observed could buy lands, horses, fine clothes etc. but truly they were too poor to finish the meeting-house; that the difficulty of a rich man's get- ting to Heaven he feared would be exemplified with many of them. * * * Wednesday, Aug. 10, rode my horse for the first time, to Liberty; his back very tender but did not suffer by the ride. I was politely treated by Mr. Ridgeley and his family, with whom I dined. I accidentally met here with Alex. McCon- nell, who owed me about $70.00; he assured me he had paid it to the Sheriff of Frederick County, who has execution against him for it, and was to bring me the receipt to Liberty on Saturday. This he neglected to do, stating that they were mislaid, and I took his affidavit of the payment, to call on the Sheriff on my return. In this place there is a wool-carding machine owned and operated by two men by name of Gamble. They are Scotchmen. The machine is more complete than I supposed; it cost $500, and is worked by one horse. It cards between 40 and 50 weight pound day and for which the owners receive 10 cts. per pound; he has as much as he can well do, and is about setting up a machine for spinning hemp and making of bagging. Goods sell very high through this country, but their price is not felt, the merchants taking produce, which he sends down the river and con- verts into remittances. Salt $3.00 per bushel], coffee 40 cts. The merchants give 2s for good towelling in other goods, and it is the usual way of procuring all the dresses the girls wear. While at Liberty I attended the debating society of which Capt. Jno. Morgan is a member; the Capt. appears to be a very friendly good man, but no Orator. The question debated was whether or not a man was in justice entitled to vote in proportion to his property. Atended at Liberty the Presbyterian meeting; this society is the most respectable of any in the neighborhood. They are nearly all republicans. McKinley is an Elder of the Church; rather reserved and austere man in his manners. He was much pressed to oppose Dodridge, and would probably have kept him out of the senate. 22d. Left Robert's, passing through Taylor (Penn.), where I saw Jno. Mc- Clellan, who has a small stock of dry goods at this place (11) miles on to Wash- ington 20 miles, 9 from Taylor Town. This is the County town of Washington County; a small town with considerable appearance of business. Got to Hawkins' tavern 1st night, 33 miles; and day got to Brownsville to breakfast, 12 miles. This place with Bridteport form a pretty little town; it is 33 miles by land and 50 by water to Pittsburgh, and 19 by land from Geneva. ******************************************************************************* Chapter Footnotes: (1) Possibly a diary of an earlier trip to the Kanawha may be in existence. In a small pocket diary kept by John D. Sutton, dated at Alexandria, Virginia, in 1796, he speaks of teaching a school in South Carolina, and of coming to Alex- andria where his father and brother, James, lived. At his father's request, he made a trip to what is now Braxton county to look at some lands which his father had bought out of the John Allison survey, lying on Granny's creek and the Elk river. He relates that he came by Winchester and Lewisburg, thence to Charleston. At Charleston, he hired a canoe and procured the assistance of a riverman to bring him up the Elk river to the mouth of Big Birch. He then crossed the country to the home of a Mr. Carpenter on Laurel creek. {TRANSCRIBERS NOTE: X-Originating-IP: [63.24.24.119] From: "John Quick" To: Subject: Augustine "Tine" Friend Date: Sun, 2 Sep 2001 20:18:25 -0600 X-Mailer: MSN Explorer 6.10.0016.1619 X-OriginalArrivalTime: 03 Sep 2001 02:10:10.0045 (UTC) FILETIME=[8EF8CAD0:01C1341D] Valerie - I am very much appreciative of your work and time in putting this wonderful information on the internet. I am referring to the Eric Bollman story of his travels in the back woods in the late 1700s. In that information he refers to Augustine Friend and his family living on the Cheat River. I am writing to you because in the transcription it says "TIM" Friend. There is so little written about these families and the genealogical research is so difficult for lack of records that I am concerned that someone will miss out on a great story and a great opportunity to link with this family. Ref: Friend Family Association of America Augustine Friend - early settler is the brother of John Friend, settler of Friendsville, and also of Andrew Friend, Charles Friend, Gabriel Friend, and Joseph Friend. He - and his brothers are - the sons of Nicholas Friend and Miss Levi Nicholas is the son of Johannes Friend and Anna Coleman Johannes is the son of Nicholas Friend sometimes known as Nils Larsson of the Swedish Communities on the Delaware in Chester Co., PA. I am hoping that there is a way to correct this TIM to AUGUSTINE or at least TINE or TEEN - as he was known - and if possible footnote this in some way to help people researching this line to know who this really is....... I am the 4th great granddaughter of his daughter, Catherine Friend who married Hezekiah Frazee and settled on the Cheat and later Washington, Gallia, and Jackson Co., OHIO. Thank you for anything you are able to do. I very much appreciate the work it takes to make this information available and I am so interested in making sure it gets used by those who will enjoy it the most. THANK YOU Linda Frazee Quick}